Screed on the ground in a private house technology. Concrete floor on the ground in a private house: concrete floor installation, general requirements and step-by-step instructions on how to do it yourself

If earlier concrete floors on the ground were used only for unheated premises, then the emergence of new building materials and technologies has significantly expanded the scope of their use. Now such floors are being installed in all rooms, and the degree of protection against heat losses in concrete floors is almost as good as structures made of traditional materials. And for the duration of operation, concrete floors have no equal. Another advantage of such structures is that they can serve as the basis for all types of floor finishing.

Concrete floors can have several varieties, but all are subject to the same technical specifications. requirements. Regulatory recommendations for the design and installation of concrete floors are prescribed in the provisions of SNiP 2.03.13-88. Compliance with these provisions guarantees the durability of the use of structures.

SNiP 2.03.13-88. Floors. Download file (click on the link to open the PDF file in a new window).

Table. Basic regulatory requirements for concrete floors.

Name of indicator	Regulatory requirements
	Physical indicators of soils should not allow the possibility of deformation of the concrete floor due to natural subsidence or seasonal expansion of wet earth. In residential premises, it is taken into account that the temperature does not fall below zero. It is forbidden to use soils that are not compacted according to SNiP 3.02.01-87 as a base for floors.
	Fillings can only be used after thorough mechanical compaction, the underlying layer of concrete must have a concrete class ≥ B 22.5. The indicators of the underlying layer in thickness are selected taking into account the maximum possible loads. Deviations of the bottom filling from the horizontal are not ≤ 15 cm per 2 m of the floor length. The bedding is done with sand or gravel.
	Provided by the underlying, used in cases where the floor is located in the zone of capillary water. At the same time, the height of moisture rise through the capillaries is taken in the parameters of 0.3 m for coarse sand, 0.5 m for fine fraction and 2.0 m for clay. The height of the groundwater, as many amateurs say, does not have any effect on the height of the rise of capillary water.
	The thickness of the thermal insulation of concrete structures is regulated by the provisions of SNiP and depends on the specific purpose of the room. Concrete floors on the ground, installed in heated rooms, must have a heat-insulating gasket along the perimeter of the junction with the foundation or walls. This gasket additionally compensates for the thermal expansion of structures.
	It is provided if it is necessary to level the surface of the concrete layer, to cover various engineering networks, to reduce thermal conductivity and create slopes (if necessary). The thickness should be 15-20 mm more than the diameter of engineering pipelines. For self-leveling coatings with polymers, the screed is made of concrete ≥ B15, the strength of light (semi-dry) concrete is ≥ 10 MPa. With an increase in floor loads in individual sections, the thickness of the screed is calculated taking into account the exclusion of deformation and loss of integrity.

Technical requirements are adjusted taking into account the characteristics of the premises and project documentation.

Step-by-step instructions for the construction of concrete floors on the ground

For example, consider the option of arranging a concrete floor in a residential area. To save building materials, it is recommended to install hydroprotection.

Step 1. Calculation of parameters and number of layers of concrete floor. Before starting work, you need to decide on the zero level. If the house is being built according to the project, this parameter is indicated on the drawings. Zero level - the level of finishing the floor, everything below this level is indicated on the construction drawings with a minus sign, everything above is indicated with a plus sign. In most cases, the floor is located at the level of the foundation, but there may be deviations.

If you do not have a project, which is very bad, then we recommend equipping the concrete floor in such a way that the concrete surface is in the same plane as the foundation. Now we need to do the pie calculations.

1. Sand layer. For a private house, it is enough to make a pillow about 10-15 cm thick. Gravel can be omitted, the load on the floor in residential premises is not so high.
2. A layer of primary concrete under the base. The thickness is about 10 cm. If there is a desire, then the primary layer can be reinforced with a metal mesh with mesh sizes up to 10 cm and a wire diameter up to 3 mm.
3. Insulation. It is recommended to use modern extruded polystyrene foam. It can withstand significant loads, does not absorb moisture, and is not afraid of rodents. The thickness of the thermal insulation is within 10 cm, it is impractical to do less due to low efficiency.
4. Top screed concrete floor. The parameter depends on the load, in our case the screed should be more than 7 cm.

The thickness of the waterproofing layers is not taken into account. Now summarize these dimensions - this is exactly the distance that should be from the ground to the upper plane of the foundation tape.

Step 2 Ground leveling. Measure the level of soil under the floor, decide how much to throw out or pour according to previously made calculations. If there is a lot of land, then it should be removed, you will have to dig with a bayonet shovel, no equipment can work in the perimeter of the strip foundation. If there is not enough land, then the missing amount should be poured. Constantly check the ground level.

Loose soil must be rammed. This can be done with a mechanical unit (frog, vibrating plate) or manually. The first option is much better - the work is noticeably accelerated, and the quality of the rammer is improved.

Practical advice. If you do not have a vibrating plate, then experienced builders strongly advise you to pour plenty of water on the compacted earth and leave it for several days for natural shrinkage. The resulting recesses after shrinkage are additionally leveled and re-rammed. If the earth is loose, then uneven shrinkage of the concrete floor cannot be avoided, and this is an extremely unpleasant phenomenon.

You can independently make the simplest device for tamping the soil. Take a bar 100 × 100 mm about 1 m long. Nail a wooden platform from a board trimming with a square side of about 20–30 cm to the lower end, fasten the handles to the upper end. It’s not worth making a large site: the larger it is, the less tamping force, you will only level the top layer of the earth, and not compact it. If the layer of earth exceeds 10 cm, then it is necessary to ram in several stages, after each of them fresh bedding is done.

Step 2 On the inner perimeter of the foundation tape, mark the location of the layer of sand, insulation and the final concrete layer. During work, do not allow deviations from the marks made by more than 2 cm.

Step 3 Pour sand, constantly level and compact each layer. We remind you once again that its stability largely depends on the quality of tamping of the concrete floor base.

Step 4 When the sand cushion has the calculated thickness, the first layer of concrete can be poured. The material is prepared based on one part of M 400 cement, two parts of sand and three parts of gravel. Gravel and sand should not contain clay, it greatly impairs the properties of concrete. Calculate the approximate amount of material. First, determine the cubature of the layer, this is easy to do. Next, use the practical data. For one cubic meter of M100 concrete, you need about 3 bags of M400 cement, for M150 concrete you need 4 bags of cement. Accordingly, sand will need twice as much, and gravel three times as much. The calculations are approximate, but in practice no one measures fillers up to a kilogram. Concrete can be prepared with a concrete mixer or manually. Briefly describe the technology of both methods.

Making concrete with a concrete mixer

You should not buy a large concrete mixer; for private construction, it is quite enough to have a unit with a bowl volume of 0.5–0.75 m 3. Store sand, gravel and cement next to the concrete mixer, place the materials in such a way that it is convenient to throw them into the bowl. Water is always poured first, for a stirrer with a volume of 0.75 m 3, at least three buckets are needed. Then you need to throw about 8-10 shovels of gravel into the water and pour cement. Gravel breaks all small lumps of cement to a homogeneous mass. When the cement is completely dissolved in water, sand and gravel can be thrown until the concrete of the desired grade is obtained. Water is added as needed. At first, the inclination of the bowl should be approximately 30 °, then, as it fills, it can be lifted. But do not increase the angle too much - the larger it is, the worse the ingredients are mixed.

Prices for electric concrete mixers

electric concrete mixer

Making concrete by hand

This is hard physical work that requires certain practical skills, but for small volumes you can prepare material in this way. How to prepare concrete by hand?

1. Prepare a flat solid area about 2x2 m in size. For the base it is better to use a steel sheet, if not, then you can make a wooden box with low sides. The height of the sides is within 20 cm.
2. Pour sand, gravel and cement into one pile in the form of a pyramid. During the pouring of the pyramid, alternate all materials, the amount should correspond to the recommended proportions.
3. Throw a pyramid with ingredients with a shovel to a new place and back again. Double transfer will ensure uniform mixing of cement with sand and gravel.
4. In the center of the pyramid, make a funnel deep to the bottom, pour water into it. Take the prepared ingredients in small portions with a shovel and mix them with water. Move in a circle, make sure that the barrier shaft of dry material does not break through. Water is also added as needed.

Concrete must be prepared in portions, taking into account the speed of its laying.

Step 5 Fill the surface of the compacted sand with concrete in portions. Control the height along the lines made on the foundation. Concrete is first leveled with a shovel, and then with a rule. There is no need to make lighthouses; only the last layer of the concrete floor should withstand exact horizontality. Level the mass with a long rule, periodically check the flatness of the coating with a level. If significant deviations from horizontal are found, problem areas should be corrected immediately.

Practical advice. Professional builders recommend making the first layer of the floor from a semi-dry mass. It has several advantages: significantly less thermal conductivity than ordinary, manufacturability and ease of installation. In terms of strength, the semi-dry mass is inferior to the wet one, but this is not critical for the floors in the house. The semi-dry mass is prepared in the same way as the wet mass. The only difference is that the amount of water decreases.

Step 6 Install waterproofing, work can begin after the concrete has set, this will take at least 48 hours. If the concrete layer was made in dry and hot weather, then it must be abundantly moistened with water at least twice a day. Earlier in this article, we already mentioned that waterproofing for concrete floors on the ground in houses is not always considered a prerequisite. If the thickness of the sand cushion is sufficient to interrupt the capillary retraction of moisture, then waterproofing is not needed. In addition, waterproofing is also not required on all gravel bases. Gravel does not draw water through the capillaries. But for reinsurance, waterproofing can be done, use an ordinary plastic film with a thickness of about 60 microns for this. This material is inexpensive, and in terms of efficiency it is in no way inferior to expensive modern non-woven materials.

Step 7 insulation layer. It is recommended to use extruded polystyrene foam. It has excellent performance in all respects. The only drawback is the high cost. To reduce the estimated cost of concrete floors, expanded clay or slag can be used as a heater.

Important. These heaters react extremely negatively to an increase in humidity. For them, the presence of waterproofing is a prerequisite. Moreover, waterproofing should be done both from above and from below.

Step 8 Cover the concrete surface with sheets of expanded polystyrene. Do not allow gaps between the sheets, insert them with little effort. The material is perfectly springy and when the load is removed, it independently eliminates cracks. Expanded polystyrene is well cut with a mounting knife. You need to cut it on a flat surface under a ruler or a flat rail. If you have an electric cutter, great, if not, then work manually. First, the sheet is cut on one side, then exactly along the cut line on the other. After a slight bending force, the notched sheet breaks. Expanded polystyrene can also be cut with a hacksaw for wood with fine teeth.

Step 8 Regulations do not provide for the need for waterproofing polystyrene foam, but practitioners advise not to skip this stage of work and cover it with plastic wrap or another type of waterproofing agent.

Step 9 Install a soft heat insulator along the inner perimeter of the foundation tape. These can be strips of foam about one centimeter thick or special foam rubber tapes. The heat insulator performs two tasks: it eliminates the possibility of heat leakage from the concrete floor to the foundation strip and compensates for the linear expansion of the concrete floor.

Step 10 Install beacons. The final layer of concrete must have a flat surface. Beacons can be installed in various ways, but the fastest and easiest way is to make them from metal bars.

1. Throw a few small piles of cement-sand mixture on the surface. In order for it to set faster, you need to increase the amount of cement by one and a half times. The distance between the piles is approximately 50-60 cm, the main criterion is that the bars should not bend under their own weight. The distance between the lines of beacons should be 20–30 cm less than the length of the rule.
2. Install the two extreme beacons under the level. Carefully check their position, the upper plane of the beacons must coincide with the plane of the foundation tape.

Practical advice. In order to speed up the setting of the cement-sand mixture, sprinkle it with dry cement several times. Remove the wet cement and sprinkle the heaps under the bars again. Cement very intensively absorbs moisture, after such procedures, you can continue to work without waiting for the solution to completely harden.

1. Pull the ropes between the two extreme beacons and do the rest on them. Do not forget to check the position, it is very difficult to correct errors in the future.

After all the beacons are exposed, start making the top layer of the concrete floor.

Step 11 Throw concrete between the beacons in small portions. First, level the material with a shovel and trowel, and then with a rule. Work carefully, do not allow the appearance of depressions. To improve the performance of the top layer of concrete, add plasticizers during preparation. The specific brand doesn't matter, they all work great. The main thing is to follow the proportions and technologies recommended by manufacturers. For the top layer, add four parts of sand to one part of cement.

This completes the work, allow time for the screed to completely harden and then proceed to the final coating of the concrete floor. As a finishing floor, you can use lumber, ceramic tiles, linoleum, etc. We have considered the simplest concrete floor, but there are options with electric or water heating, it will take much more time and knowledge to equip such structures.

There are many options for flooring in a private house. One of them is flooring on the ground - a multilayer structure that serves as a universal basis for any finishing materials.

The device of the base in this way has its pros and cons. Of the positive properties, the following can be noted:

1. A wide range of heaters helps to prevent heat loss of the structure.
2. The temperature of the soil located under the multi-layer floor structure never drops below zero.
3. The load is distributed on the soil base - there is no need to make complex calculations.
4. No moisture or mold.
5. The resulting subfloor can be lined with any floor material.
6. Excellent soundproof properties.
7. Fast and uniform heating of the room when installing water or electric heat carriers inside the screed.

There are also disadvantages:

1. The dismantling of the structure for the purpose of repair, especially if the floor heating pipes are damaged, is a time-consuming and financially costly process.
2. It is impossible to arrange such a floor with close passage of groundwater to the surface of the earth and loose soil in composition.
3. The construction of such a design belongs to the category of expensive and taking a lot of time and effort.
4. A significant reduction in the height of the room.

Features of the floor on the ground

The floor on the ground is a multilayer structure. Its features and properties are directly related to the quality and characteristics of the soil. The main requirement is related to groundwater, which should be located below 5 m from the surface of the earth. This will eliminate the mobility and swelling of the soil masses.

Forming a flat, hard surface for laying decorative flooring is the main task. It can also be used to easily create a floor slope for natural water drainage in the first floor bathroom and shower, bath or sauna.

The depth of soil freezing and the seismic activity of the construction region are also important.

Construction conditions

Reinforced monolithic concrete slab, which is a floor system on the ground, is made on a sand-gravel compacted base. Ballast bedding forms the base and cover of the required height and transfers the load from the slab to the ground.

The cost of measures to protect the slab from moisture depends on the depth of the passage of groundwater. With a depth of 3 meters and more problems will not arise.

To protect the structure from below from the effects of moisture and heat loss allows a layer of heat and waterproofing, laid on a supporting base. The soil can be protected from frost heaving by cutting off the cold bridge, which causes moisture to freeze. To do this, the basement of the house from the outside is insulated with the help of sheet foam.

Requirements for the height of the floor relative to the strip foundation

There are no special requirements for choosing the height of the floor structure relative to the foundation tape. The only parameter that needs to be considered is the location of the front door and the ground level of the floor relative to it. It is important to avoid a serious difference in the height of the porch and the floor of the interior, providing for this nuance at the design stage.

With the correct manufacture of the doorway at the stage of pouring the tape support, the manufacture of the floor on the ground boils down to the fact that its top, taking into account the finishing layer, must coincide with the level of the threshold.

In the process of pouring the strip foundation, it is already necessary to have an idea about the location of the doorway and its parameters.

Material selection

A rough screed with a thickness of about 8 cm is poured over a layer of polyethylene film, and two more layers of polyethylene are overlapped on top of it to create waterproofing. At this stage, it is necessary to ensure the tightness of the connection of polyethylene sheets to each other.

A rough screed does not require special qualifications of the builder, but, nevertheless, it involves a large number of works associated with its creation. Features of the device and a calculator for calculating the amount of ingredients for a floor screed solution can be found in

The multilayer construction involves the sequential laying of layers: sand, and crushed stone or expanded clay on top. After that, a footing, protective layers and a finishing screed are formed, which will serve as the basis for the finishing material. If the soil is too wet, then it is recommended to refrain from using expanded clay because of the ability of the material to absorb excess moisture and change its shape under its influence.

Sand and gravel in this design protect the room from moisture. At the same time, both layers are carefully tamped, and the crushed stone is treated with bituminous mastic.

The heat-insulating layer is created using the following materials (optional):

• extruded polystyrene foam;
• mineral wool
• foam glass;
• Styrofoam.

At the final stage, a reinforced finishing screed is laid. It is important to make it as even as possible, so the solution is poured along the beacons, controlling the process with the help of measuring instruments (level).

Requirements for the type of foundation

The presence of a foundation does not affect the properties of the floor on the ground, only the nature of its interaction with the main structural element of the building changes.

Depending on the type of foundation - tape or column, the method of adjoining the floor system depends.

Columnar supports are arranged in such a way that the floor is in contact with the grillage, if it is low or located under it.

When the grillage is high, the resulting gap between it and the floor is closed during the pouring process with the help of boards and left inside the structure.

As for the slab foundation, it is a floor structure resting on a soil base. The device of the floor on the ground, subject to the existence of a strip foundation, is carried out in such a way that the floor is adjacent to its inner wall.

Types of structures

Regardless of the type of floor construction on the ground, it consists of several main layers.

Table 1. Floor construction

floor construction	Laying process
	2. Pour a sandy layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 6. Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing material. 7. Lay a layer of insulation. 8. Fill in the finishing screed. 9. Lay the finish coat.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour a sandy layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 4. Lay a layer of polyethylene. 5. Fill the footing. 6. Lay a layer of insulation. 7. Pour the solution. 8. Lay the finishing material.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Pour a sandy layer. 3. Pour a crushed stone layer. 4. Spilled from above with a liquid concrete solution. 5. Lay a layer of insulation. 6. Pour the solution. 7. Lay the finishing material.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Lay a layer of polyethylene. 3. Fill the footing. 4. Lay a layer of insulation. 5. Fill in the finishing screed. 6. Lay the finish coat.
	1. Compact the soil base. 2. Fill and compact the sand layer. 3. The crushed stone layer is poured and compacted. 4. Fill the footing. 5. Lay a waterproofing layer of roofing felt. 6. Lay a layer of insulation 7. Fill in a finished reinforced screed (without a gap) with coolants. 8. Lay the finish coat.

Nuances to consider

The design of the floor is selected depending on the conditions of its operation. There are several leading factors:

1. The level of operational loads. If they are over 200 kg, then the reinforcing mesh should have a bar diameter of 4 mm, if the load is less than the specified value, then 3 mm is sufficient.
2. The distance from the earth's surface over which groundwater flows. It is recommended to take the highest value into account (during floods or seasonal snowmelt).
3. The purpose of the design is with heat carriers (the "warm floor" system) or conventional. A floor with a water or cable heat carrier involves a 2 cm gap between the finished concrete coating and the wall along the perimeter of the room. The lower layers are adjacent to the walls.

Now in the construction market there are several varieties of "warm floors". They differ in the type of coolant and work efficiency. How to choose a warm floor? We'll tell you in

Question answer

Table 2. Most popular questions

Question	Answer
Are broken bricks and construction debris suitable as a replacement for crushed stone in the bedding	Chipped brick will not cope with the protection of the slab from moisture. They are also not suitable as a leveling backfill because of the difference in the size of individual elements that are not subject to high-quality tamping and do not ensure the normal operation of the entire floor structure.
Is it possible to abandon the mesh for reinforcement and replace it with unrelated bars	Reinforcement will only “work” correctly when using rigidly fixed bars that form 10 x 10 cm grid cells.
Is it possible to use expanded clay in bedding instead of crushed stone	Expanded clay is not suitable as a material that protects the floor from below from the capillary action of moisture, since it itself absorbs moisture and changes under its influence. Although as a leveling layer in dry ground, this lightweight, inexpensive material is quite suitable and can replace gravel.
Is it possible to perform pouring instead of a footing device	If the purpose of laying crushed stone and sand is to create a layer that prevents the passage of moisture, then spilling will prevent the crushed stone from coping with its function.
Can polyethylene under the rough screed replace the waterproofing layer	No, since this layer is technological, protecting the bedding from cement laitance.
Is it possible to refuse screed reinforcement	No. This process can be abandoned only when the footing is installed.
Is it possible to refuse to perform the footing, and lay the waterproofing and insulating layer directly on the bedding.	Lay the waterproofing layer on a flat, solid base - this allows you to extend its service life. The same applies to the laying of insulation, which must be fixed motionless and not provoke the formation of cracks on the floor surface.

Features of heat and waterproofing

The role of the thermal insulation layer is as follows:

1. To reduce or eliminate heat loss.
2. In protecting the structure from moisture coming from the ground.
3. In the soundproofing of the room.
4. In the exclusion of the process of vaporization.
5. In creating optimal microclimatic indicators.

When installing a simple floor on the ground, it is possible to use a conventional plastic film. The process goes like this:

1. When laying polyethylene (150 microns) on a finished, compacted base, the film sheets are overlapped (15-20 cm) and the joints are carefully glued with adhesive tape. The edges along the perimeter of the room lead to the walls to a height of 10 - 20 cm. To be sure of the reliability of the waterproofing layer, the procedure for laying the film can be done twice, each time carefully fixing the material.
2. The thickness of the insulation (foam or expanded polystyrene) should not be less than 10 cm. Due to the fact that the foam is afraid of moisture, it is protected from both sides in the manner described above.
3. A reinforcing mesh with 10 x 10 cm cells and a wire diameter of 3 mm is laid on top of the insulation.
4. After that, the screed is poured to a height of 5 cm.

Important! Do not neglect the external insulation of the foundation, the blind area and the organization of water drainage from the basement.

This way of organizing the floor has its pros and cons. Of the positive qualities, the following can be noted:

1. Suitable for most soil substrates.
2. High-quality insulation of the foundation increases its resistance to the load during frost heaving of the soil.
3. The consumption of the solution is less than with the construction of a slab foundation.
4. This floor is durable.
5. There is no need to carry out additional insulation of pipes and other communications passing through the floor structure.
6. Suitable for laying finishing material.
7. There is no need to create high-quality ventilation of the underground space.

The disadvantages include the fact that the cost of work may increase with the construction of a high base.

The location of the reinforcement in the screed array depends on the presence of coolants in it. If it is a warm floor, then the reinforcing mesh is placed above the pipes and about 3 cm of the screed layer is provided on top. In an ordinary floor, the mesh is placed approximately in the middle of the screed array (3 cm to the top).

Manufacturing technology

Before proceeding with the pouring of the floor, it is important to carefully prepare the base, consisting of several layers. The main recommendations are to use a fine-grained filler in the concrete mix and lay it on the lighthouses in one go.

Underlayment

This layer consists of a compacted sand cushion and crushed stone bedding (fraction 30-50 mm) with a height of 7 to 10 cm each. The purpose of this layer is to protect the bottom of the slab from moisture from the soil and as a leveling base.

The features of the soil that must be considered before proceeding with the installation of the floor include the following:

1. It is important to remove the vegetation layer of the soil when preparing the base. Otherwise, due to shrinkage, the concrete structure will simply collapse.
2. Sand is used when groundwater is low to the surface, as it is able to absorb moisture.
3. When using crushed stone on wet soil, capillary rise of moisture is excluded.

Important! You can replace the footing if the crushed stone layer is leveled with sand so that the waterproofing film laid on it is not damaged. Previously, cement milk is used to pour the underlying layer.

To reduce the cost of work and get a quality result at the stage of preparation and design, it is necessary to take into account some of the nuances:

1. After laying the finishing material, the level of the finished floor must match the level of the threshold of the entrance opening.
2. It is necessary to prevent the floor screed from resting on fragments of the plinth or foundation that protrude from the internal walls.
3. In the process of tamping the sandy layer, it is irrigated, and not spilled through with water.

Underlayment and waterproofing

The purpose of the waterproofing material is to prevent the insulation and screed from getting wet due to moisture.

1. When guiding bituminous roll materials, two layers are created. The overlap is at least 15 cm with a perpendicular arrangement.
2. When using a film, the direction of gluing the sheets does not matter. The main thing is to overlap and carefully seal the joints.
3. The EPDM membrane is laid in one layer.

The device of a footing with a height of 5 to 10 cm allows you to make an even and rigid base for a waterproofing layer (sticking a film, fusing bitumen). Otherwise, when using rolled bituminous materials or PVC film, their laying becomes much more complicated due to the divergence of the joints on loose ground.

Important! To create a rough screed, it is possible to use lean concretes, in which the cement content is minimal. It is not necessary to reinforce this layer. Under the ban, rigid fixation of a rough screed with a foundation and a plinth.

Insulation laying

As a damper layer, strips of insulation or a tape of the same name are used. The tape is glued directly to the inside of the foundation or plinth along the perimeter of the room.

The thickness of the insulation (from 5 to 15 cm) is taken in accordance with the operating conditions in the construction region.

Being, in fact, an overlap, the floor on the ground is not fixed rigidly to the walls of the room. Therefore, it has the following qualities in the field of insulation:

1. The places of contact between the floor and the base, due to the presence of the lower insulated layer, are completely protected from heat loss.
2. With the help of a damper layer installed along the perimeter of the room between the screed and the wall, the room can be protected from vibration and noise.
3. Sealing and leveling work, which is required when laying the slabs, will not be required in this case.
4. The advantage is the lack of free space (subfloor) under the floor structure.

A floating screed involves, before pouring the solution, the establishment of utility pipes in the room - heating, cold and hot water supply, sewerage.

It is important to understand that input nodes with a similar floor design have zero maintainability. Therefore, in order not to resort to the destruction of the screed, the risers are laid inside pipes of a larger diameter so that it is possible to perform timely replacement or cleaning of pipes.

Concrete pour options

Plaster beacons or metal profiles, which are used when pouring the mortar, can increase the productivity of the work performed and obtain a high-quality coating.

The peculiarity of the work is that it is impossible to walk on the reinforcing mesh in the process of pouring the floor, so there are two ways to do the work.

When pouring the solution from the far corners of the room towards the door, the reinforcing mesh inside the concrete is given the required level of rigidity, so the free sections of the reinforcement do not move. This method is called "tracks".

Movement around the pouring area can be carried out with the help of ladders - suitable supports made of bricks or timber installed in the cells of the grid, on which the boards rest.

After 3 days, you can finish the floor.

Prices for reinforcing mesh for screed

reinforcing mesh for floor screed

Video - Do-it-yourself floors on the ground

In the process of erecting and equipping basements, garages, various outbuildings, and sometimes even residential premises (of course, in regions with a warm mild climate), developers often prefer technology that involves laying a concrete floor on the ground.

After reviewing the information below, you will receive all the necessary information to independently conduct the event in question, refusing to involve third-party craftsmen in this work and significantly saving on the construction of the floor.

Before prioritizing the device technology of the design in question, review the key soil requirements in the following table.

Table. Soil requirements for a reliable concrete floor

Additionally, requirements are made directly to the building itself. It is important that the house is used for permanent residence or at least heated during the cold season. Otherwise, the ground will freeze, causing the concrete structure to deform.

Scheme of floors on the ground for a private house, garage, utility room

Concrete flooring technology on the ground

We do the floor after the completion of the construction of the walls and the arrangement of the roof / ceiling. Direct work on the arrangement of the structure under consideration on the ground consists of several technological stages, the sequence of which is given below.

First stage. Marking the floor level

First we need to set the zero level of the future floor. To do this, we do the following:

Second phase. Clearing and compacting the soil

We proceed to the stage of preliminary preparation of the soil. First we need to get rid of construction debris, if any. Next, we remove the top ball of soil. Traditionally, a multilayer concrete floor structure has a thickness of about 30-35 cm. We dig until the distance between the previously laid zero level line and the bottom of the pit reaches the specified value.

After that, we need to tamp and level the surface. The best tool for this work is a special vibrating plate for tamping the soil. In the absence of such, we take a simple log, nail strong handles on top of it, nail a board from below and use the resulting device to compact the soil. We work until we get a fairly dense and even base. Special checks are not required: it is enough to walk on the ground and, if there are no indentations from the legs in it, we proceed to the next stage of work.

vibrating plate

Manual digging is never perfectly accurate. If the depth of the pit turned out to be more than the required thickness of the future concrete structure, we fill the difference with a layer of sand and carefully compact it.

Helpful advice! You can use another solution to the above problem, first laying a layer of clay, spilling it with water, tamping it, filling it with sand and further compacting it. Such a system will provide additional waterproofing of the future concrete structure, preventing groundwater from penetrating into its structure.

Third stage. We make backfill

We fall asleep a 5-10 cm layer of gravel. We spill the backfill with water and thoroughly tamp. For greater convenience, we can pre-drive several rows of rebar trims or other similar material of the required length into the ground - this will make it easier for us to provide the required backfill height. It is important that the trimmings are set strictly according to the level. After arranging each planned layer, the pegs can be removed.

On top of the gravel, we pour about a 10-centimeter layer of sand. The pegs from the previous stage will help us control the thickness of the backfill. To carry out this event, it is not necessary to use sifted material - even ravine sand with minor impurities will do. The sand is also thoroughly tamped.

On top of the sand we fall asleep a layer of gravel. The material of a fraction of 4-5 cm is optimally suited. We compact the crushed stone. We pour a thin layer of sand on top, carefully level it and thoroughly tamp it down. If gravel with sharply protruding edges is found, we remove it or shift it so that there are no sharp corners throughout the plane.

Important! Each layer of backfill must be level. Similar requirements are imposed on the layers of the “pie” that are further equipped.

Fourth stage. We install moisture and heat insulating materials

To protect concrete from the harmful effects of moisture, we use a special waterproofing membrane or an ordinary polyethylene film. Optimally suitable material with a thickness of 200 microns. The work is carried out in an extremely simple sequence: we lay out the film on the base, bringing its edges a couple of centimeters above the zero level indicated in the previous stages, we lay the insulation sheets directly with a 10-15 cm overlap, and fix the joints with adhesive tape.

The structure can be insulated using a wide variety of materials, here is just a short list:

• expanded clay;
• mineral wool boards;
• Styrofoam;
• roll isolon, etc.

We lay the selected material, following the provisions of the relevant technology, and proceed to further work.

Fifth stage. We equip the reinforcing layer

The multilayer concrete structure is subject to mandatory reinforcement. We strengthen the floor with PVC or metal mesh to choose from. Also, metal wire and reinforcement bars are well suited for solving this problem. They must first be tied into a grid (we select the size of the cells in accordance with the expected loads: for high ones we take 10x10 cm, for medium ones - 15x15 cm, for low ones 20x20 cm will be enough), using flexible steel wire to fasten the joints.

The reinforcing frame is laid on pre-installed stands having a height of about 20-30 mm.

Important note! In the case of hardening with the use of a plastic mesh, the material is stretched over pegs previously driven into the base.

insulation

Sixth stage. We mount guides and formwork

Proper pouring of concrete mix at zero level is impossible without the use of guides. We do the following:

Important! Before proceeding to the next stage of work, be sure to check the correct installation of the guides and formwork using a level. If there are differences, you simply cannot make a flat floor. To eliminate irregularities, it is enough to cut off the protruding places. You can raise the guides in the right places by placing bars of a suitable size under them or the same plywood.

Before pouring, be sure to treat wooden elements with special oil. Thanks to this, in the future we will be able to get the boards out of the solution without any difficulty.

Seventh stage. Pouring concrete and making a screed

We fill the previously created "maps" with concrete mortar. If possible, we try to fill in the entire mass at a time - so we get the most durable monolithic structure. If there is no possibility or desire to order ready-made concrete, we make it ourselves.

Pouring concrete on lighthouses (option without maps)

To do this, we need a concrete mixer or a large suitable container for manual mixing, cement (we use material grades M400-500), a shovel, gravel, sand. We work according to the following recipe: 1 share of cement, 2 shares of sand, 4 shares of gravel and about 0.5 shares of water (it can change, we are guided in the process of work). Thoroughly mix the ingredients until a homogeneous mixture and proceed to further work.

It is most convenient to pour from the corner opposite to the front door - in this case, you do not have to walk on concrete. We pour several cards in 1, maximum 2 doses, level the solution and stretch the mixture. If there is a special vibrator, we use it to compact the mixture.

Formwork around pipelines

Having filled in several "cards", we proceed to leveling the base. A two-meter (possibly longer) rule will help us with this. We install the tool on the previously mounted guides and pull it towards us. So we get rid of excess concrete.

We take out guides and formwork from the processed “cards” (specialists usually do this a day after pouring, some earlier, we focus on the situation). In a similar sequence, we fill the entire site with concrete. After that, cover the base with plastic wrap and leave for a month to gain strength. During the drying process, the concrete structure must be regularly moistened with water so that it does not crack.

In conclusion, it remains for us to fill the screed. To do this, we use a special self-leveling mixture - the most convenient option, the arrangement of which does not require special knowledge and effort.

The leveling mixture will eliminate minor surface imperfections and allow you to get a perfectly even base. We traditionally start working from the corner opposite to the entrance to the room.

The concrete floor on the ground is ready. We just have to lay the selected flooring. Thanks to a properly equipped flat base, the finish will look beautiful and last as long as possible.

Now you know everything about the construction of a concrete floor on the ground and will be able to independently carry out the necessary activities. You just need to follow the guide and everything will definitely work out.

Successful work!

Video - Construction of a concrete floor on the ground

In private houses, floors are usually created directly on the ground, they are quite cheap and simple in design. Floors on the ground are equipped on the first floors of private houses with strip foundations, and clay, cement or concrete can be used to equip them. The most popular is the concrete floor on the ground. There are several reasons for this: firstly, concrete is publicly available, secondly, it is cheap, thirdly, a concrete floor has the greatest strength and durability, and, in addition, it is quite simple to make it. Work on the creation of such floors can be performed without special skills, the main thing is to know what and how to do.

Conditions for arranging a concrete floor on the ground

The device of the floor on the ground imposes certain requirements on the soils themselves. The soil must be dry, the groundwater level must be at a depth of at least 4-5 m, the soil must not be mobile. It makes sense to do a concrete floor on the ground in the case when the basement or basement is provided for in the project of the house. In addition, the house must be residential and heated during the cold period, because in winter the soil freezes, thereby increasing the load on the foundation and deforming the structure.

Concrete floor installation on the ground

Scheme of the device floor on the ground

We begin all flooring work after the walls have been erected and the roof has been built. This will ensure the quality of further work. The process of arranging the floor itself consists of the following steps:

• marking the level of the concrete floor;
• clearing and compacting the soil;
• laying gravel, sand and crushed stone;
• hydro and thermal insulation;
• reinforcement;
• installation of guides and formwork;
• pouring concrete, leveling and screeding the concrete floor.

Marking the level of the concrete floor

We outline the "zero" level of the floor

We set the level of the concrete floor to "zero" with the bottom of the doorway and apply it around the entire perimeter of the room. To do this, you need to put marks on the wall at a level of 1 m from the bottom of the doorway. Then transfer the marks to the walls around the entire perimeter of the room and measure from them and mark back 1 m down. The resulting line will be the “zero” level to which concrete must be poured. To make it easier to navigate, you can drive nails along this line in the corners of the room and pull a cord over them.

Clearing and compacting the soil

Now we start clearing and compacting the soil. First of all, we remove all construction debris in the room.

Then we begin to remove the top layer of soil.

The floor structure on the ground is a multi-layer "pie", about 30-35 cm thick. Therefore, we remove the soil layer until the total height from "zero" to the ground becomes equal to the thickness of the multi-layer "pie" structure.

Then carefully tamp the surface. This can be done using a special vibrating plate. But if it is not there, then we take an ordinary log, nail handles to it from above, and a board from below and begin to compact the soil. The challenge is to get an even and sufficiently dense base on which to walk and not leave indentations from the feet.

There may be a situation when the soil level is below the declared 35 cm. In this case, it is necessary to remove a small part of the fertile layer, compact it tightly, fill it with sand to the required mark and compact it.

Important! To increase the waterproofing of the concrete floor, a layer of clay and then sand can be laid on top of the native soil. Clay can be watered a little and compacted, it will prevent the penetration of groundwater.

Once the base layer is compacted, you can start backfilling the next one - it will be gravel. We fall asleep a layer of gravel with a thickness of 5-10 cm. We pour it with water and carefully tamp it down. To make it easier to control the thickness of the layer, we drive several rows of pegs of the desired height into the base soil and set them according to the level. After backfilling and tamping, the pegs can be removed.

We fill up the sand and ram

After gravel we fall asleep sand. We make the layer thickness about 10 cm and use the same pegs to simplify control. Sand is poured and compacted tightly. It should be noted that ravine sand with various impurities can be used for this layer.

On top of the sand we lay a layer of crushed stone of a fraction of 40-50 mm. We carry out the compaction procedure. The resulting surface of crushed stone is sprinkled with a thin layer of sand, leveled and rammed. If crushed stone with sharply protruding edges is observed on the surface, then it should be removed or laid so that there are no sharp corners on the entire plane.

Important! The base base and all layers of the "pie" of the concrete floor must be aligned with the horizon. Therefore, at all stages of laying and compacting each layer, it is necessary to monitor the horizon with a level.

Waterproofing and thermal insulation of concrete floor

Concrete floor waterproofing can be done with polyethylene film

To create, you can use a 200 micron thick polyethylene film or a waterproofing membrane. We lay out the waterproofing layer over all areas of the room, draw the edges a couple of centimeters above “zero”, put the sheets themselves into an overlap and glue them with adhesive tape.

To improve the thermal insulation qualities of a concrete floor, various materials can be used, each of which is laid at a certain stage of work:

• expanded clay;
• Styrofoam;
• stone basalt wool;
• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• perlite;
• thick moisture resistant plywood;
• cork coating;
• roll isolon.

Floor reinforcement

You can reinforce the concrete floor with a frame of metal rods

To give the concrete floor additional strength, it must be reinforced. For this, a metal or plastic mesh, reinforcing bars or metal wire is used. The reinforcing frame must be laid on stands 2-3 cm high. So it will be inside the concrete floor and create a single whole with it.

Important! If we use a plastic mesh, then we stretch it over the pegs hammered into the base. A reinforcing frame made of reinforcement and metal wire can be welded independently, with certain skills.

Installation of guides and formwork

To facilitate the pouring of concrete and withstand the "zero" level, it is necessary to lay guides. We mark the room into equal segments up to two meters wide and divide them using guides. They are usually made from a board or a bar, the main thing is that the height of the guides be flush with the "zero" mark. We fix the guides themselves with a thick solution of cement, sand and clay.

We install the formwork for the concrete floor between the guides. It forms the so-called "maps", which are subsequently poured with concrete. This is done in order to simplify the filling process and maintain the "zero" level. For formwork we use moisture resistant plywood or boards.

Important! Guides and formwork must be brought to zero and leveled horizontally with a level in order to get a flat floor when pouring. We treat the formwork and guides with special oil to easily remove the boards from the concrete solution.

Pouring concrete, leveling and screeding the concrete floor

The concrete floor is poured in one, maximum two passes. This is necessary to create a monolithic and durable structure. To do this, you can order concrete at the factory, and it will be brought in large volumes, but if this is not possible, you will have to do everything yourself. Then you will need a concrete mixer and a shovel, cement grade M400 or M500, river sand, crushed stone and a partner.

To prepare concrete, we take 1 part of cement, 2 parts of sand, 4 parts of crushed stone and 0.5 parts of water. We mix in a concrete mixer and use the resulting mixture to fill the floor. We start pouring from the opposite corner from the door. It is necessary to pour several “cards” in one or two times, then smooth and stretch the mixture with a shovel. For dense shrinkage of concrete, we use a special vibrator, which helps to compact concrete and fill all voids with it.

Set the rule on the guides and pull towards you

After filling out several "cards" we start drafting. To do this, we set a rule with a length of more than 2 m on the guides and pull it towards us. With its help, we remove excess concrete that fills the still empty "cards". In those "maps" where alignment was carried out, we take out the formwork and guides and fill the voids with concrete. As soon as the entire floor area is filled with concrete and leveled, it is covered with a film and allowed to stand for 3-4 weeks to harden. During this time, the surface is constantly moistened with water.

Filling the floor with self-levelling compound

At the final stage, we perform a screed of the concrete floor with a self-leveling mixture. This will smooth out all the small flaws and create a perfectly flat surface. We start from the opposite corner from the door. We apply a solution from a self-leveling mixture to the surface and stretch it using the rule. The resulting surface must be cured for 3 days.

The crowning achievement in creating a concrete floor on the ground will be the laying of a floor covering that, thanks to a carefully prepared base, will be strong and durable. The design of a concrete floor on the ground, due to its simplicity and reliability, can last for decades, the main thing when creating it is to follow the technology of pouring concrete.

Schemes for flooring on the ground in a house, basement, garage or bath

In houses without basements, the floor of the first floor can be made according to two schemes:

• with support on the ground - with a screed on the ground or on logs;
• based on walls - like a ceiling over a ventilated underground.

Which of the two options would be better and easier?

In homes without a basement, ground flooring is a popular solution for all ground floor spaces. Floors on the ground - cheap, simple and easy to perform, it is also beneficial to arrange in the basement, garage, bathhouse and other utility rooms. A simple design, the use of modern materials, the placement of a heating circuit in the floor (warm floor), make such floors comfortable and attractively priced.

In winter, the backfill under the floor always has a positive temperature. For this reason, the soil at the base of the foundation freezes less - the risk of frost heaving of the soil is reduced. In addition, the thickness of the thermal insulation of the floor on the ground may be less than that of the floor above the ventilated underground.

It is better to refuse the floor on the ground if it is necessary to backfill with soil at too high a height, more than 0.6-1 m. The cost of backfilling and compacting the soil in this case may be too high.

The floor on the ground is not suitable for buildings on a pile or columnar foundation with a grillage, which is located above the ground.

Three basic schemes for laying floors on the ground

In the first variant a concrete monolithic reinforced floor slab rests on load-bearing walls, Fig.1.

After the concrete hardens, the entire load is transferred to the walls. In this option, a monolithic reinforced concrete floor slab plays the role of a floor slab and must be calculated for the standard load of floors, have appropriate strength and reinforcement.

The soil is actually used here only as a temporary formwork when constructing a reinforced concrete floor slab. Such a floor is often referred to as a "suspended ground floor".

A suspended floor on the ground has to be done if there is a high risk of shrinkage of the soil under the floor. For example, when building a house on peat bogs or when the height of bulk soil is more than 600 mm. The thicker the backfill layer, the higher the risk of significant subsidence of the fill soil over time.

Second option - this is the floor on the foundation - a slab, when a reinforced concrete monolithic slab, poured onto the ground over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe building, serves as a support for the walls and the base for the floor, Fig.2.

Third option provides for the installation of a monolithic concrete slab or the laying of wooden logs in the gaps between the bearing walls supported by bulk soil.

Here, the floor slab or logs are not connected to the walls. The load of the floor is completely transferred to the bulk soil, Fig.3.

It is the last option to correctly call the floor on the ground, which will be our story.

Floors on the ground should provide:

• thermal insulation of premises from the conditions of energy saving;
• comfortable hygienic conditions for people;
• protection against penetration into the premises of ground moisture and gases - radioactive radon;
• prevent the accumulation of water vapor condensate inside the floor structure;
• reduce the transmission of impact noise to adjacent rooms along the building structures.

Backfilling a soil cushion for a floor on the ground

The surface of the future floor is raised to the required height by installing a cushion of non-porous soil.

Before starting work on backfilling, be sure to remove the top soil layer with vegetation. If this is not done, then the floor will begin to settle over time.

Any soil that can be easily compacted can be used as a material for the pillow device: sand, fine gravel, sand and gravel, and with a low level of groundwater - sandy loam and loam. It is advantageous to use the soil left in the area from, the well and (except for peat and black soil).

The soil of the pillow is carefully compacted in layers (not thicker than 15 cm.) by tamping with spilling the soil with water. The degree of soil compaction will be higher if a mechanical rammer is used.

Large crushed stone, broken bricks, pieces of concrete should not be laid in the pillow. There will still be voids between large fragments.

The thickness of the pillow from bulk soil is recommended to be made within 300-600 mm. It is still not possible to compact bulk soil to the state of natural soil. Therefore, the soil will settle over time. A thick layer of loose soil can lead to too much and uneven subsidence of the floor.

To protect against ground gases - radioactive radon, it is recommended to make a layer of compacted rubble or expanded clay in the pillow. This underlying capping layer is made 20 cm thick. The content of particles with a size of less than 4 mm in this layer should be no more than 10% by weight. The filtration layer must be ventilated.

The top layer of expanded clay, in addition to protection from gases, will serve as additional thermal insulation for the floor. For example, a layer of expanded clay with a thickness of 18 cm. in terms of heat-saving capacity corresponds to 50 mm. foam. To protect against punching of insulation boards and waterproofing films, which in some floor designs are laid directly on the backfill, a leveling layer of sand is poured over the compacted layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, twice the thickness of the backfill fraction.

Before filling the soil cushion, it is necessary to lay water and sewer pipes at the entrance to the house, as well as pipes of the soil ventilation heat exchanger. Or lay cases for mounting pipes in them in the future.

Ground floor construction

In private housing construction, the floor on the ground is arranged according to one of three options:

• ground floor with concrete screed;
• ground floor with dry screed;
• ground floor on wooden beams.

A concrete floor on the ground is noticeably more expensive in the device, but more reliable and durable than other designs.

Concrete floor on the ground

Floors on the ground are a multi-layer structure, Fig.4. Let's go through these layers from bottom to top:

1. Laid on a soil cushion ground filter materialmoisture contained in freshly placed concrete (e.g. polyethylene film at least 0.15 mm.). The film is put on the walls.
2. Along the perimeter of the walls of the room, to the total height of all layers of the floor, fix separating edge layer from strips with a thickness of 20 - 30 mm cut from insulation boards.
3. Then arrange a monolithic concrete floor preparation thickness 50-80 mm. from lean concrete of class B7.5-B10 on crushed stone fraction 5-20 mm. This is a technological layer designed for sticking waterproofing. The radius of the junction of concrete to the walls 50-80 mm. Concrete preparation can be reinforced with steel or fiberglass mesh. The mesh is laid in the lower part of the slab with a protective concrete layer of at least 30 mm. For reinforcing concrete foundations, it can alsouse steel fiber length 50-80 mm and diameter 0.3-1mm. At the time of hardening, the concrete is covered with a film or poured with water. Read:
4. For hardened concrete floor preparation bonded waterproofing. Or two layers of rolled waterproofing or roofing material on a bitumen basis are laid on the mastic with each layer being placed on the wall. Rolls are unrolled and joined with an overlap of 10 cm. Waterproofing is a barrier to moisture, and also serves as protection against the penetration of ground gases into the house. The waterproofing layer of the floor must always be connected to a similar waterproofing layer of the wall. Butt joints of film or roll materials must be sealed.
5. On a layer of hydro-gas insulation laying insulation boards. Extruded polystyrene foam will probably be the best option for floor insulation on the ground. Styrofoam is also used, with a density of at least PSB35 (residential premises) and PSB50 for heavy loads (garage). Styrofoam eventually collapses upon contact with bitumen and alkali (these are all cement-sand mortars). Therefore, before laying foam plastic on a polymer-bitumen coating, one layer of polyethylene film should be laid with an overlap of sheets 100-150 mm. The thickness of the insulation layer is determined by heat engineering calculation.
6. On the insulation layer laying underlayment(for example, a polyethylene film with a thickness of at least 0.15 mm.), which creates a barrier to the moisture contained in the freshly laid concrete floor screed.
7. Then lay a monolithic reinforced screed with a "warm floor" system (or without a system). When underfloor heating, it is necessary to provide expansion joints in the screed. Monolithic screed must be at least 60 thick mm. performed from concrete class not lower than B12.5 or from mortarbased on cement or gypsum binder with a compressive strength of at least 15 MPa(M150 kgf / cm 2). The screed is reinforced with welded steel mesh. The grid is laid in the lower part of the layer. Read: . For a more thorough leveling of the surface of the concrete screed, especially if the final floor is made of laminate or linoleum, a self-leveling mortar from factory-made dry mixes with a thickness of at least 3 cm.
8. For screed installing a clean floor.

This is a classic floor on the ground. On its basis, various versions are possible - both in design and in the materials used, both with and without insulation.

Option - concrete floor on the ground without concrete preparation

Using modern building materials, concrete floor on the ground is often done without a layer of concrete preparation. A layer of concrete preparation is needed as a basis for sticking rolled waterproofing on a paper or fabric basis impregnated with a polymer-bitumen composition.

In floors without concrete preparation as a waterproofing, a more durable polymer membrane specially designed for this purpose is used, a profiled film, which is laid directly on the soil cushion.

A profiled membrane is a high-density polyethylene (PVP) sheet with protrusions molded on the surface (usually spherical or in the form of a truncated cone) with a height of 7 to 20 mm. Available in density from 400 to 1000 g/m 2 and is supplied in rolls with a width of 0.5 to 3.0 m, length 20 m.

Due to the textured surface, the profiled membrane is securely fixed to the sandy base, without deforming or moving during installation.

Fixed into the sand base, the profiled membrane provides a solid surface suitable for laying thermal insulation and concrete.

The surface of the membranes withstands without breaks the movement of workers and machines for transporting concrete mixtures and mortars (excluding tracked vehicles).

The service life of the profiled membrane is more than 60 years.

The profiled membrane is laid on a well-compacted sand cushion with spikes down. The spikes of the membrane will lock into the pillow.

The seams between the overlapped rolls are carefully glued with mastic.

The studded surface of the membrane gives it the necessary rigidity, which makes it possible to lay insulation boards directly on it and concrete the floor screed.

If extruded polystyrene foam boards with profiled joint joints are used for the construction of the thermal insulation layer, then such boards can be laid directly on the ground backfill.

Bedding of crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of at least 10 cm neutralizes the capillary rise of moisture from the soil.

The polymer film of waterproofing in this embodiment is laid on top of the insulation layer.

If the top layer of the soil cushion is poured out of expanded clay, then the insulation layer under the screed can be abandoned.

The thermal insulation properties of expanded clay depend on its bulk density. From expanded clay with a bulk density of 250–300 kg / m 3 it is enough to make a heat-insulating layer with a thickness of 25 cm. Expanded clay with a bulk density of 400–500 kg / m 3 to achieve the same thermal insulation capacity, you will have to lay a layer 45 thick cm. Expanded clay is poured in layers with a thickness of 15 cm and compacted with a manual or mechanical rammer. The easiest way to compact is multifraction expanded clay, which contains granules of different sizes.

Expanded clay is quite easily saturated with moisture from the underlying soil. Wet expanded clay reduces thermal insulation properties. For this reason, it is recommended to arrange a moisture barrier between the base soil and the expanded clay layer. A thick waterproofing film can serve as such a barrier.

Expanded clay concrete is coarse-pored without sandy encapsulated. Each expanded clay granule is enclosed in a waterproof cement capsule.

Durable, warm and with low water absorption will be the base for the floor, made of coarse-pored claydite concrete without sand.

Ground floor with dry screed

In floors on the ground as the upper bearing layer, instead of a concrete screed, in some cases it is advantageous to make a dry prefabricated screed from gypsum-fiber sheets, from sheets of waterproof plywood, as well as from prefabricated floor elements from different manufacturers.

For residential premises of the first floor of the house more simple and cheap option there will be a floor installation on the ground with a dry combined floor screed, Fig.5.

The floor with a prefabricated screed is afraid of flooding. Therefore, it should not be done in the basement, as well as in wet rooms - a bathroom, a boiler room.

The floor on the ground with a prefabricated screed consists of the following elements (positions in Fig. 5):

1 - Flooring - parquet, laminate or linoleum.

2 - Glue for joints of parquet and laminate.

3 - Standard underlay for flooring.

4 - Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum-fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.

5 - Glue for assembling the screed.

6 - Leveling backfill - quartz or expanded clay sand.

7 - Communications pipe (water supply, heating, electrical wiring, etc.).

8 - Insulation of the pipe with porous-fibrous mats or polyethylene foam sleeves.

9 - Protective metal casing.

10 - Expansion dowel.

11 - Waterproofing - polyethylene film.

12 - Concrete reinforced base made of class B15 concrete.

13 - Foundation soil.

The device for adjoining the floor to the outer wall is shown in Fig. 6.

The positions in Fig. 6 are as follows:
1-2. Lacquered parquet, parquet, or laminate or linoleum.
3-4. Adhesive and primer for parquet, or standard underlay.
5. Prefabricated screed from prefabricated elements or gypsum fiber sheets, plywood, chipboard, OSB.
6. Water-dispersion adhesive for screed assembly.
7. Moisture insulation - polyethylene film.
8. Quartz sand.
9. Concrete base - reinforced concrete screed class B15.
10. Separating gasket made of waterproofing roll material.
11. Thermal insulation made of PSB 35 foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam, according to the calculation thickness.
12. Foundation soil.
13. Plinth.
14. Self-tapping screw.
15. Outer wall.

As mentioned above, the soil cushion at the base of the floor always has a positive temperature and in itself has certain heat-insulating properties. In many cases, it is enough to additionally lay the insulation in a strip along the outer walls (pos. 11 in Fig. 6.) in order to obtain the required thermal insulation parameters for the floor without underfloor heating (without warm floors).

The thickness of the floor insulation on the ground

Fig.7. Be sure to lay insulation in the floor, along the perimeter of the outer walls, with a tape, at least 0.8 wide m. Outside, the foundation (basement) is insulated to a depth of up to 1 m.

The temperature of the soil under the floor, in the area adjacent to the plinth along the perimeter of the outer walls, depends quite strongly on the outside temperature. A cold bridge forms in this zone. Heat leaves the house through the floor, soil and plinth.

The soil temperature closer to the center of the house is always positive and depends little on the temperature outside. The soil is heated by the heat of the Earth.

Building regulations require that the area through which heat escapes must be insulated. For this, it is recommended to arrange thermal protection at two boundaries (Fig. 7):

1. Insulate outside the basement and foundation of the house to a depth of at least 1.0 m.
2. Lay a layer of horizontal thermal insulation in the floor structure along the perimeter of the outer walls. The width of the insulation tape along the outer walls is at least 0.8 m.(pos.11 in Fig. 6).

The thickness of the thermal insulation is calculated from the condition that the total resistance to heat transfer in the floor - soil - basement section must be no less than the same parameter for the outer wall.

Simply put, the total thickness of the basement plus floor insulation must be no less than the thickness of the outer wall insulation. For the climatic zone in the area of ​​Moscow, the total thickness of the foam insulation is at least 150 mm. For example, vertical thermal insulation on plinth 100 mm., plus 50 mm. horizontal tape in the floor along the perimeter of the outer walls.

When choosing the dimensions of the thermal insulation layer, it is also taken into account that the insulation of the foundation helps to reduce the depth of freezing of the soil under its sole.

These are the minimum requirements for floor insulation on the ground. It is clear that the larger the size of the heat-insulating layer, the higher the energy saving effect.

Lay thermal insulation under the entire floor surface in order to save energy, it is absolutely necessary only in the case of underfloor heating in the premises or the construction of an energy-passive house.

In addition, a continuous layer of thermal insulation in the floor of the room is useful and necessary to improve the parameter heat absorption of the floor surface. The heat absorption of the floor surface is the property of the floor surface to absorb heat in contact with any objects (for example, the soles of the feet). This is especially important if the finished floor is made of ceramic or stone tiles, or other material with high thermal conductivity. Such a floor with insulation will feel warmer.

The heat absorption index of the floor surface for residential buildings should not be higher than 12 W / (m 2 ° С). A calculator to calculate this indicator can be found

Wooden floor on the ground on logs on a concrete screed

Base plate made of concrete class B 12.5, thickness 80 mm. on a layer of crushed stone, compacted into the ground to a depth of at least 40 mm.

Wooden bars - logs with a minimum section, width 80 mm. and height 40 mm., it is recommended to lay on the waterproofing layer in increments of 400-500 mm. For vertical alignment, they are placed on plastic pads in the form of two triangular wedges. By sliding or pushing the linings, the height of the lag is adjusted. Span between adjacent support points lag no more than 900 mm. Between the lags and the walls should leave a gap of 20-30 mm.

The joists lie freely without attachment to the base. At the time of installation of the subfloor, they can be fastened together with temporary bonds.

For the device of the subfloor, wood-based boards are usually used - OSB, chipboard, DSP. The thickness of the plates is not less than 24 mm. All joints of the plates must necessarily rely on the logs. Wooden lintels are installed under the joints of the plates between adjacent lags.

The subfloor can be made from a grooved floorboard. Such a floor made of high-quality boards can be used without a floor covering. Permissible moisture content of wood flooring materials is 12-18%.

If necessary, insulation can be laid in the space between the lags. Mineral wool slabs must be covered from above with a vapor-permeable film, which prevents the penetration of microparticles of insulation into the room.

Rolled waterproofing from bitumen or bitumen-polymer materials applied in two layers on the concrete underlying layer by melting (for welded roll materials) or by sticking on bitumen-polymer mastics. When installing pasting waterproofing, longitudinal and transverse overlapping of panels should be ensured at least 85 mm.

To ventilate the underground floor space on the ground along the logs, slots in the baseboards must be provided in the rooms. At least two opposite corners of the room leave holes with an area of ​​20-30 cm 2 .

Wooden floor on the ground on the logs on the posts

There is another constructive scheme of the floor - this is wooden floor on the ground on logs, laid on posts, Fig.5.

Positions in Fig.5.:
1-4 - Elements of the finishing floor.
5 —
6-7 - Glue and screws for assembling the screed.
8 - Wooden log.
9 - Wood leveling gasket.
10 - Waterproofing.
11 - Brick or concrete column.
12 - Foundation soil.

The device of the floor on the logs along the columns allows you to reduce the height of the soil cushion or completely abandon its device.

Floors, soils and foundations

Floors on the ground are not connected to the foundation and rest directly on the ground under the house. If heaving, then the floor in winter and spring can "walk" under the influence of forces.

To prevent this from happening, the heaving soil under the house must be made not to heave. The easiest way to do this, and the underground part

The design of pile foundations on bored (including TISE) and screw piles involves the installation of a cold base. Warming the soil under the house with such foundations is a rather problematic and expensive task. Floors on the ground in a house on a pile foundation can only be recommended for non-heaving or slightly heaving soils on the site.

When building a house on heaving soils, it is also necessary to have an underground part of the foundation to a depth of 0.5 - 1 m.

In a house with external multi-layer walls with insulation on the outside, a cold bridge is formed through the basement and the bearing part of the wall, bypassing the wall and floor insulation.