Carpenter's table with his own hands. Wooden workbench: design variations

A comfortable workplace, well-equipped, with a solid carpentry workbench, can greatly facilitate the processing of wooden products. This makes it possible to speed up the production process and improve the quality of the final product.

If there is no time for manufacturing, you can purchase a ready-made workbench in the distribution network. In comparison with this option, hand-made desktop production has several advantages:

• the ability to get a carpentry workbench of the desired size and functionality;
• rational placement of work units and additional equipment;
• the purchase of a finished workbench will cost much more.

Design requirements

Depending on the intended work, the carpentry table must have the following characteristics:

• The mass and rigidity of the structure must be sufficient to ensure the integrity and stability of the desktop.
• The presence of devices for fixing and holding the workpieces (stops, screw clamps,).
• Possibility of ergonomic placement of additional equipment.
• The dimensions of the future carpentry workbench depend on the mass and dimensions of the workpieces that are supposed to be processed on it.
• The free space in the workshop should be taken into account. There are projects of compact workbenches that allow you to organize a workplace even on the balcony.
• The height of the table should be oriented to the physiological characteristics of the person who will work behind it.
• Additional devices should be placed taking into account the main working hand of the owner.
• Before starting the design of the workbench, you need to decide what it will be - portable or stationary.

The most suitable workbench dimensions for working with wood:

• tabletop length - 2 m;
• width - 70–100 cm;
• table height from the floor - 80–90 cm.

Types of carpentry workbenches

If there are no serious functional requirements for the workbench, a desk converted to professional needs can be used for small jobs.

mobile workbench

This type of carpentry desktop is relevant in case of a lack of free space in the workshop. Its length is no more than a meter, and its width is 60–80 cm, and its weight usually does not exceed 30 kg. It is convenient to use a portable mobile workbench for processing small workpieces, minor repairs of joinery, woodcarving. Due to its compact dimensions, the mobile machine can be placed in any room: in the garage, in the country house or on the balcony. For even greater compactness, a folding design is often used.

Scheme for the manufacture of a mobile workbench

Stationary workbench

A full-fledged working facility with reference to a specific place, without the possibility of mobile movement during operation. Designed for processing workpieces of any weight and length (within reasonable limits). This is a powerful, reliable device, made taking into account the characteristics of the workspace and the personal preferences of the master. Stationary machines are necessarily equipped with special clamps for fixing workpieces. They provide a place for fixing the tool and installing additional stops.

Composite carpentry workbench

Thanks to the collapsible design on bolted connections, individual modules of the machine can be easily replaced during operation. The main drawback of this device is the complexity in manufacturing (compared to other models), which is largely offset by its variability in the process of use.

Selecting a project and drawing up a diagram

When drawing up a project, the main parameters that need to be taken into account are height, configuration and functional equipment.

Height. For comfortable long-term work, the height of the workbench should not be more than 90 cm. When determining this parameter, first of all, you should take into account your height (if the workbench is made for yourself). And also important is the type of carpentry work that is supposed to be performed most often, and those that require the most convenient conditions for their high-quality performance.

Configuration. If there are no restrictions on the working space, the optimal width is 80 cm, length is 2 m. When configuring the workbench, you need to take into account the presence of shelves, compartments, doors, drawers, their number and size.

Functional equipment. To hold workpieces, the carpenter's workbench must be equipped with two clamps. The front clamp is located on the left, the rear clamp is on the right end of the workbench. This clamp layout is right-handed. If the master has the main working hand on the left, the clamps are mirrored relative to the above option.

It is necessary to provide places for fixing electric and hand tools, technological holes for stops and limiters. Lighting devices and sockets are best placed on nearby walls and objects.

Necessary materials

When selecting material for each workbench node, it is necessary to take into account the functional features and loads to which it will be subjected.

In order for the workbench not to turn out to be too massive, light softwood is preferred as the material for making the frame:

• pine;
• alder;
• Linden.

Hardwood, as well as plywood of various thicknesses, is used to make countertops.

The frame for a workbench can be welded from a metal square tube or angle of a suitable section, but most joiners prefer wood structures.

Making a simple table

As an example, we took the manufacture of a carpentry workbench with a table top 2 m long, 80 cm wide and 80 cm high. To make better use of time, you first need to glue the table top. While it is glued, you can prepare the components of the frame and its subsequent assembly.

During the manufacturing process you will need:

• miter circular saw;
• drill;
• electric jigsaw;
• clamps.

Table top assembly

Type-setting (glued) shield made of hardwood (ash, oak, beech, hornbeam). The recommended table top thickness is 60 mm. It is most rational to use a planed beam with a section of 60x40 mm for its manufacture. After preparing the length of the timber, it must be glued together into a shield of the required width. To get a shield 80 cm wide, you need to prepare 20 bars 60x40 mm.

For high-quality gluing, the following factors must be taken into account:

• The bar is strictly rectangular in cross section (not a rhombus or a parallelepiped).
• The shield must be clamped with special clamps that are capable of providing sufficient clamping force.
• Gluing is carried out on a flat plane, while deformation during compression must be excluded.

You can do without all of the above and glue the shield by successively compressing the bars together with self-tapping screws or even nails. But in this case, there can be no talk of any flat surface of the countertop.

Plywood tabletop. Several sheets of plywood are glued together along the plane. The number of sheets to be glued depends on their thickness and on the planned thickness of the countertop. For high-quality gluing of plywood, a flat plane is required. The quality of the finished countertop depends on how even this plane is.

There are two options for gluing plywood at home:

• With boards and clamps. Glue is applied to the plywood and compressed with clamps. For uniform compression, boards are placed under the clamps.
• With planks and weights. Plywood pre-lubricated with glue is placed on a flat plane, boards are placed on top and pressed with a load.

Support manufacturing

The supporting legs of the desktop are made of timber with a section of 100x100 mm. They look quite massive, but this is necessary to ensure the rigidity of the structure. The transverse frame parts are made of the same wood as the legs. For this, a beam with a section of 60x60 mm is enough.

In order to avoid the deformations that large-section solid wood parts are subject to, it is better to use for the manufacture of supports. It can be glued together from two or three blanks of a smaller section. For example, to make a beam with a section of 100x100 mm, you need to glue together three boards with a section of 105x35 mm along the plane. After gluing, you will get a blank 105x105 mm, where 5 mm is a margin for finishing.

To assemble the frame, spiked joints or dowels are used. This assembly option requires the presence of special equipment. Otherwise, the process will be unreasonably long. A simpler option is to use metal fasteners and fittings (bolts, screws, corners, self-tapping screws).

Frame size:

• length - 180 cm;
• width - 70 cm;
• height - 74 cm.

The height is given taking into account the thickness of the tabletop (60 mm). The length and width of the frame ensures the presence of overhangs of the table top (10 cm per side from the ends, 5 cm per side in front and behind).

When assembling, the following blanks should be obtained:

• Racks (legs) - 100x100 mm, 74 cm long.
• Cross bars - 60x60x1600 mm (4 pcs.) And 60x60x500 mm (4 pcs.).

If you use spiked joints, then the length of the workpiece must be added to the length of the spike (recommended 60 mm), multiplied by 2.

Frame and table assembly

Before assembling, to the bottom of the tabletop along the edges, you need to attach transverse boards with a section of 100x60x800 mm and longitudinal 50x60x1800 mm. Cross boards are needed to prevent deformation of the countertop during operation. Longitudinal - for the subsequent equipment of the carpentry workbench with clamps.

To securely fix the longitudinal and transverse boards, glue should be used. If there is no confidence in the quality of the adhesive, they can be additionally fixed with self-tapping screws or other metal fasteners.

If all dimensions are taken into account correctly, then the frame of the workbench will become clearly between the transverse and longitudinal boards from the bottom of the tabletop. The entire structure should be fastened with bolts, through the transverse boards of the table top and support pillars (legs). To prevent the bolt heads from interfering, countersunk holes must be drilled under them.

Folding design

It is advisable to use a folding workbench when the amount of working space is limited and the mobility of moving the desktop during operation is necessary. In most cases, a carpentry portable workbench is equipped with a removable top and a folding frame.

The tabletop can be hinged against the wall, and the legs can be folded under it. When using this design, the length of the legs should be calculated in such a way that they do not interfere with each other when folded. That is, their length should be less than half the distance between them.

Similar carpentry workbenches are designed for processing small parts. Therefore, the structural elements of these tables are not made as massive as on stationary ones. For the manufacture of support posts, a beam of 100x40 mm, transverse 60x40 is sufficient.

Any board material (OSB, chipboard, plywood) can be used as a countertop material. If the thickness of the board material is not enough, the tabletop can be reinforced with a frame of 30x50 timber (the cross section of the timber is determined by the planned rigidity of the tabletop).

Assembly of a folding joiner's workbench is made on bolts. In order for the table to be quickly disassembled, it is advisable to use special wing nuts instead of ordinary nuts.

I want to weld a workbench in the garage. Locksmith, as in the workshop.
To cook on it, and sharpen, and screw the vise, and put tools in boxes.

I was able to visualize my intentions. For a long time I went through different layout options and figured out the dimensions. I think I found the best option for me.

Metal parts are marked in blue, wooden parts are in yellow.
The tabletop will be made of a 50mm thick board, girded with a 50x50x4 corner and covered with a 2mm metal sheet. The frame of the workbench will be welded from a profile pipe 60x40x2. Stiffeners will be welded from a 40x40x4 corner. Shelves and side panels will be made of 30mm boards. From the 40x4 strip, guides for attaching the side panels will be made. The boxes will be welded from 2mm metal and mounted on a powerful skid.

For the purchase of metal, we agreed with Diky to order a Gazelle for two in order to pay less, and on Saturday at 8:30 in the morning, so as not to stretch it out for the whole day, we went to the metal depot.

The weather was slippery and with a cold wind. A loader in a tattered army pea jacket, who looked like he was suffering from a hangover, took out wet metal for cutting. Nearby, in a puddle, lay a dirty carrier with a grinder connected to it. Cut off pieces of rolled metal plopped into a slushy puddle. The ordered Gazelle was waiting nearby. It was getting light.

Do not consider me a maniac, but after arriving at the garage, I washed with water and wiped dry grubby rusty pieces of freshly bought metal. Anyway, clean it before painting, otherwise it will be more pleasant to work with it.

On that harsh January morning were bought:
1. Corner 50x50x4 6.4 meters
2. Pipe 60x40x2 24 meters
3. Corner 40x40x4 6.75 meters
4. Strip 40x4 8 meters
Only 121 kilograms of metal for 4000 rubles.
Now I will cook my workbench.

Cutting the main parts of the frame took two evenings, a total of five hours.
In total, it turns out that the skeleton of the workbench will consist of 45 welded parts.
The tags indicate what it is and where to weld it.

Now you can safely put everything on the back burner and surrender to the thick fetid sticky quagmire of everyday hopeless routine.

Welded brackets for the toolbar above the workbench.

And the base for a homemade countertop is welded.

The crossbars of the base for the worktop are welded flush with the corner. For this, figured cutouts are made in the crossbars. Here's a little sketch of what it looks like:

In the meantime, scalded the instrument panel brackets.

Overlays from 4mm strip reinforced loaded joints.

Welded 24 brackets for the side panels. The panels will be plywood - cheaper than metal and look better.

Brackets give additional rigidity to the entire structure.

I want to cover the countertop with a sheet of metal 4mm or 5mm. There is an office on Moskovsky Prospekt that immediately cuts sheets of metal to size. I need a 2200x750 sheet.
If you take a sheet of 2500x1250, then two good pieces will remain (2200x500 and 300x1250) or (2500x500 and 750x300), which can also be chopped into the desired size.
If such pieces are useful to someone, then [b]let's cooperate, otherwise it's a little expensive for one.

I made boxes from 15mm plywood. Assembled with 80mm screws. Each box contains 20 screws. It came out strong just the way I like it.

The size of each box is 0.6m x 0.7m x 0.2m

The sled was fastened by welding. I learned how to weld a 1mm tin to a 4mm strip with a 3mm electrode at a current of 100 amner. It's like putting a 3-liter V8 car engine in a food processor. It was just that the TIG was lazy to uncover. What's more, it's so secure.

Now I'm thinking about different options for facades.

This completes the welding phase. Ahead is a carpenter and a painter. Still in a trifle locksmith and electrically conductive.

Painting the frame of a homemade workbench.
I asked the seller to recommend a good paint.
- Wah, what a good paint, I swear by my mother! - he answered, holding out a can of paint over rust with metal chips for 500 rubles.

I covered the countertop with a 150x40 edged board. I fastened the boards to the frame with self-tapping screws 4.0x35. I used 60 screws in total.

I sanded the surface a little so that the sheet of metal lay denser.

Watered about protecting the tree from fire. Impregnated wood cannot sustain combustion on its own.
When the impregnated wood is heated, a melted film is formed, which does not burn and limits the access of oxygen to the surface. The manufacturer of my impregnation declared group I of fire retardant efficiency - the highest.

Of course, this does not allow you to cook metal directly on the surface of the workbench. All the same, if the boards do not catch fire, they will char. To organize a welding post, I plan to weld a removable grate that will reliably protect the surface of the countertop from thermal exposure.

After drying, I will cover the countertop with an already prepared 4mm metal sheet.

Covered the countertop with a 4mm sheet of metal. The sheet was attracted to a wooden base with rows of self-tapping screws with a hidden head. The tabletop turned out to be monumental.

Shields of 10mm plywood closed the extra openings in the frame of the workbench.
Pictured is the paint shop.

Has registered on a table-top of permanent tenants - a grinder and a vise. On a hefty tabletop, they are lost.

1) What is the best way to cover bare metal on a countertop? I'm leaning towards a rust converter, which will create a strong protective film and be easy to renew if necessary. Maybe there are better ideas?
2) Where can I get a sturdy chair with adjustable height?

P.S. I think it will be interesting for those reading this thread - a bourgeois site with a bunch of ideas for welded tables and other welded things: http://www.pinterest.com/explore/welding-table/ You can find the manufacturing process for everything presented on the links.

Nevertheless, he decided and smeared the countertop with a rust converter. It is necessary to smear with a thin uniform layer.

While the countertop was drying finished with shelves in the left drawer

Well, in general, smearing the countertop was not a bad idea. It really turned out to be a film, as if varnished. True, it is not covered very neatly, but it is really easy to restore - because. the film is easily dissolved by a new portion of the transducer and dries again, hiding all old damage.

From the big one - it remains to make a panel for tools and place fasteners on it for everything-everything-everything.
I want to hang a sheet of plywood or a solid furniture board 15mm thick and 2.2 meters x 1 meter in size. If anyone has one, I suggest an exchange for a sheet of metal 4mm 2.2 meters x 0.5 meters (left from the countertop).

Well, actually, for the sake of what ...

Test passed

Class! You no longer have to huddle with hand-held power tools on stools, lay out tools, fasteners, screwdrivers, taps and tape measures on all available shelves and nooks and crannies around and look for them, forgetting where you put them - everything is in one place and at hand.

Installed the instrument panel. Solid, from 21 mm plywood.

4 corners 50x50x4 plus plywood 21 mm plus 16 bolts 8x40 equals to hang tens of kilograms of tools without fear of breaking something

Facades for drawers made from the remnants of the 21st plywood

That's all.
The dream workbench is ready. In some places, something came out crooked, but I am very pleased with the result.

The net weight of the workbench exceeded 200 kilograms. Worktop area 1.65 square meters, instrument panel area 2.2 square meters. The total volume of the left and right pedestals is almost one cubic meter. A feature of the workbench is that you can sit behind it when working with TIG, and the tabletop covered with a 4mm metal sheet is not afraid of mechanical damage. Roomy shelves, drawers and a panel allow you to conveniently store almost all the tools I have, providing convenient quick access to it.
Here is such a homemade workbench of dreams.
I think my great-grandchildren will work on it.

P.S. And after a little refinement, you get an excellent dressing table)) -816- http://gazeta-v.ru/catalog/detail/192_vizazhist_i_fotograf/15464_grimernyy_stol_svoimi_rukami/

Well, to put a bullet in the project a few more photos.

Self-tapping screws are screwed in and out quickly and easily (with a screwdriver, of course).

Over time, I will add wrenches, holders for drills and screwdrivers, a paper towel holder, and, well, additional lighting. Fortunately, on two square meters there is where to turn around. I made an awesome piece. Satisfied like an elephant.

Firstly, the small vise could not withstand the load and burst.

Instead, more powerful vices are installed. On one side they have a five-pointed star cast, on the other - the numbers 1958 - probably the year of issue. So they are 56 years old? Hope they last me the same. In general, a good vise is the pride of the master.

The photo shows that the table top does not protrude beyond the dimensions of the table at all. Therefore, when attaching a vice to the bolts, it will not be possible to crawl from below to tighten the nut. I thought so. The vise and sharpener are fixed to the tabletop with anchor bolts. Looks neat and holds deadly.

Secondly, it turned out that the deep drawers in the right cabinet are not very convenient. It would be better to make them smaller. I will invent some organizers inside them.

The rest turned out great. All tools in one place, in plain sight and always ready. On a large tabletop there is also where to decompose.

You can purchase some items from this blog in our VKontakte group:

The general principle of the development of material processing technology from prehistoric times to the present day is how to make details on inaccurate equipment for more accuracy. And it all started with a workbench, its prototypes are found during excavations of Stone Age settlements. It is quite possible to build a workbench, and a full-fledged one, with your own hands, and this will not only save a significant amount, but also simplify, facilitate work and improve its result.

Three mistakes

Amateurs, sometimes, judging by their designs, very experienced, knowledgeable and diligent, sometimes make workbenches for themselves, on which, figuratively speaking, a tank can be smashed with a sledgehammer. They take a lot of time and labor, and hardly less money than a good branded amateur workbench. Repetition in the design for own use of industrial prototypes designed for intensive work in 3 shifts and a static load of more than a ton, with a service life of 20 years or more, is one of the typical mistakes in the development of workbenches of our own design.

The second is the neglect of vibrations. Not a clearly felt “play” or “recoil”, but a small tremor that significantly complicates the work and reduces its quality. Vibrations are especially strong in workbenches on a metal frame.

Third - repeat carpentry or locksmith workbenches; perhaps with some tweaks to your liking. Meanwhile, there are many designs of workbenches for home / amateur work of a different nature. There are workbenches that are more or less specialized or, on the contrary, universal, temporary from improvised materials, etc.

In this article we will figure out how to make a workbench taking into account these errors, firstly, simpler and cheaper according to the range of needs and / or hobbies of the craftsman. Secondly, how to make a general-purpose workbench or a universal workbench for special conditions of use - in a cramped garage, under carpentry at a construction site from improvised trash, home for fine precision work, for children.

About universal workbenches

Among the branded products, sometimes very expensive, you can find "universal" workbenches in the form of a carpenter's with a lid without a tray, a complete bench vise on a wooden cushion, and a clamp for installing them, like the one in the photo:

“Universal” prefabricated workbench

This is the wrong decision, not only because the wooden countertop deteriorates from carpentry. The main thing that is bad here is the technological fluids used in metal processing - oil, kerosene, etc. The wood impregnated with them becomes much more combustible. Self-ignition is also possible; remember, it is strictly forbidden to accumulate oiled rags in production. The approach to designing the countertop (board, cover) of a universal workbench needs a different one based on what kind of work it is mainly used for - thin or rough, see below.

work bench

In the West, amateur / home workbenches with a type-setting worktop framed by a side are widespread. Drawings of such a "working bench" are given in fig. Under the locksmith, the lid is covered with a sheet of steel 1.5-2 mm thick and a vice is placed on the pillow.

The workbench dampens vibrations well; You can make it from pine or spruce. But the design is complicated, it is inconvenient to work with lengthy materials and furniture on such a workbench. Therefore, we will first look at how to make the most common carpentry workbench, then garage and metalwork. Next, we will try to combine them into a universal workbench and see what we can come up with on this basis for special needs.

The composition of the workbench

The workbench of "our" type (conditionally, since it is impossible to establish its origin exactly) consists of:

• Underwork (in carpentry workbenches), or bed (in metalwork), ensuring the stability of the entire unit and the ergonomics of the workplace.
• Covers, box-shaped or in the form of a tray, giving the work area the necessary rigidity.
• Shelves; possibly with a tray, nests, and stops on which work operations are performed.
• The apron on which the tool is hung. The apron is not a mandatory accessory of the workbench, it can hang on the wall or be replaced by a pedestal, rack, etc.

Note: workbench height approx. 900 mm. The length and width are selected according to the place of installation and the type of work within 1200-2500 and 350-1000 mm, respectively.

A lid with a shelf is most often made at the same time, one-piece, and is simply called a lid, benchtop or table top. To dampen vibrations, the shelf is always made on the basis (bed, substrate) of wood. In a locksmith's workbench, the bed is covered with a steel sheet from 2 mm thick and can be made of coniferous wood. Its overall strength is sufficient, and the steel tire protects the tree from local damage and ingress of technical fluids. In a carpenter's workbench, a bed made of high-quality (without knots, strands, and other defects) solid small-layer wood (oak, beech, hornbeam, elm, walnut) serves at the same time as a shelf; -layer construction, see below.

The traditional construction of the bench, on the contrary, is collapsible from the same wood as the joiner's shelf. This comes from the master covens of the past, who transported their equipment from customer to customer on a cart. It is from the bed / underbench that you should start developing your workbench no worse, but simpler than traditional ones.

Bed: metal or wood?

A stationary wooden workbench has advantages over that on a steel frame, not only in lower cost and labor intensity. Wood, firstly, is not plastic. A workbench on a wooden base can be broken, but if the wood is used seasoned and impregnated, it will never buckle. Secondly, the tree perfectly dampens vibrations. The foundations of your buildings are not reinforced vibration-absorbing ones, like workshops at a factory, are they? And the overall strength and stability of the bed of a home workbench will be fully provided by coniferous commercial wood of ordinary quality.

The design of the wooden frame of the workbench made of boards 120x40 is shown on the left in fig. Permissible static load - 150 kgf; dynamic vertically down for 1 s - 600 kgf. Corner posts (legs) are assembled on self-tapping screws 6x70 in a zigzag (snake) with an indent from the edge of 30 mm and a step of 100-120 mm. Double-sided fastening; snakes on both sides of the package are mirrored. Intermediate support beams are fastened with steel corners on self-tapping screws; edge - with pairs of self-tapping screws at the spikes of the racks and, outside, with corners.

If a beam of 150x50 or (180…200)x60 is available, the design can be simplified, as shown in the center in fig. The bearing capacity will increase to 200/750 kgf. And from a bar 150x150, 150x75 and (180 ... 200) x60, you can build a frame that can carry 450 kgf in statics and 1200 in dynamics, on the right in Fig.

Note: any of these beds is suitable for both carpentry and locksmith workbenches. A box-shaped cover is placed on it under the carpentry (see below), and under the locksmith a tray from a 60x60x4 corner with welded 4 mm strips above the intermediate beams. A wooden pillow is placed in the tray and covered with steel, also see below.

If there is no welding

An all-wood workbench, without the need for welding to manufacture it, can be made according to the scheme on the trail. rice. The “chip” here is in the tabletop, glued from a 75x50 bar and fastened with ties. If the beam is oak, then the permissible load is 400/1300 kgf. Corner posts - timber 150x150; the rest is timber 150x75.

Metal

It happens the other way around: metal is more accessible than wood, and there is welding. Then the workbench table for a load of 100/300 kgf can be assembled according to the drawing on the left in fig. Materials - corner 35x35x3 and 20x20x2. Drawers are galvanized. The disadvantage is that it is impossible to make an opening at the bottom for the legs, the structure will lose its ability to carry a dynamic load.

Under a load of 200/600, a more convenient metal workbench is suitable according to the scheme at the top right of a professional pipe 50x50 (corner posts), 30x30 (other vertical parts) and a corner 30x30x3. The plank cushion of both workbenches is laid only across (bottom right) from tongue-and-groove boards (120 ... 150) x40.

Shelf - steel 2 mm. The shelf is attached to the pillow with 4x (30 ... 35) self-tapping screws, a pair from each edge of each board, and along the extreme boards - with a step of (60 ... 70) mm. Only in this design, the workbench will show the specified load-bearing capacity.

These workbenches are already universal: under the carpentry, the lid is turned over with the wooden side up or adapted, as described below. The locksmith's vise is mounted on a wooden cushion, but is not fastened with a clamp. A collet anchor under the M10-M14 bolt is driven into the vice cushion from below, and a through hole is drilled under it in the cover. A washer from 60x2 is placed under the bolt head. This solution is convenient because it is possible to use inexpensive non-rotating vise.

For carpentry

The lid of the carpentry workbench, in contrast to the metalwork, is tightly attached to the workbench and is box-shaped, for general rigidity. The best mounting option for a non-separable workbench is steel corners and self-tapping screws. Podverstache can also be a steel bed from those described above.

How a traditional carpentry workbench is arranged is shown in pos. And rice; accessories to it in pos. B. The workbench (in this case, this is a separate device) is used to work with a long length. The emphasis in its groove is made from a wedged trimming of the board, see below. It is advisable to drill a longitudinal row of holes in the board and fasten it into the sockets with sunken cone-head bolts. The traditional construction of a carpentry underbench is shown in pos. G, but - see above.

The cover of the carpentry workbench can be made cheaper by making a 2-layer, pos. Q. Then high-quality hardwood boards will only be needed for a shelf. They lay it down, laying the boards with “peas” of annual layers alternately up and down, in order to avoid warping. The flooring of the shelf is first rallied with PVA glue or carpentry, tightly squeezing with a clamp or wrapping it with a cord; put on a pillow on the same glue. The skirt of the lid is assembled separately with glue and through spikes (insert at pos. B) and is attached to the pillow-shelf package with self-tapping screws.

Vice for carpentry

All-wood carpentry vices, front and chair, are now almost completely replaced by a vice with a metal screw clamp, pos. D; their device is shown in pos. E. Some remarks are needed here.

First, you need to put 2-3 steel washers under the head of the clamping screw, otherwise it will quickly eat through the pillow (4x4x1 cm piece of wood). Second - if the nut is not custom-made and not purchased shaped, then get at least for a while a set of taps for the thread used. In this case, do not try to use too thick a screw for evenness and smoothness of the clamp; M12-M16 is enough.

The nut of a home-made clamping pair is welded onto a base with a diameter of 60 mm or more, square, from 70x70 mm. It is not necessary to sink it into the clamp pad, so it is less likely that the nut will be torn off when clamping. But the thread will ugly lead away from welding, you can’t drive it away with a bolt. The thread of the welded nut will need to be tapped according to the full scheme, as when cutting: the first tap - the second - the third (if included in the kit).

Note: the nut welded on the base must be allowed to rest for at least 2 hours before the thread passes, so that the residual deformations “subside”.

Vice and carpentry for a locksmith

The vise on the locksmith's workbench is installed in the corner (see the inset in the figure), so that as much as possible of the dynamic loads during metal processing falls vertically on the corner post. The location of the cross beams and intermediate vertical racks of a workbench with a stationary vice is desirable to be made a little asymmetrical, placing them at smaller intervals towards the corner with a vice. The installation of the vice is also carried out starting from the corner:

• A collet anchor is driven into the wooden corner post under the mounting bolt, and a high nut or threaded sleeve is welded into the metal post (attachment point 1 at the bottom left in the figure);
• If the fastener is welded, thread with taps, as in a homemade carpenter's vice nut, see above;
• Put a vice temporarily on 1 bolt and mark holes for fixing points 2, 3 and 4 in place;
• The vise is removed and through holes 2, 3 and 4 are drilled;
• Put a vise on the bolts 1, 2 and 3;
• For fastening to bolt 4, a jib U is placed under the cover (tabletop) from a wooden beam from 60x60 or a professional pipe from 40x40. It is not necessary to fix the jib, but it should rest from under the bottom against the upper frame (strap) of the bed, but not against the table top!
• Attach the vise finally to the bolt 4.

Note: stationary power tools are also fixed in the same way, for example. emery.

Under the carpentry

A locksmith's workbench can also be adapted for carpentry work if you drill 2-4 pairs of holes in the tabletop for fixing the carpentry stop (on the right and in the center in the figure). In this case, round bosses are screwed to the bottom surface of the stop with self-tapping screws; corks from plastic bottles work well, they withstand tight fitting many times.

Garage workbench

A workbench in the garage cannot be made optimal in terms of ergonomics of the width of the workplace - the dimensions of a standard box 4x7 m with a car standing in it do not allow. For a long time already, through trial and error, the width of the garage workbench was determined at 510 mm: it is quite convenient to turn between it and the hood, and you can more or less work. A narrow workbench under a heavy load (for example, a motor taken out for bulkhead) is unstable, so it is made attached to the wall. Often - angular, this increases stability, but any wall-mounted workbench "responds" stronger than a workbench-table of the same design

The scheme of the device of one section of the garage workbench is given in fig. In this design, an ingenious method of additional damping of vibrations is used: cells of the frames of the cover and the lower shelf of the edge farthest from the corner of different sizes. The accuracy of the installation of the crossbars is +/- 1 cm. For the same purpose, the cover and the lower shelf are made of chipboard 32 mm thick and covered with linoleum instead of steel. For garage work, its durability is sufficient; replaced without difficulty.

Fastening to the walls - self-tapping screws from 8 mm or bolts from M8 with a pitch of 250-350 mm. Deepening into a stone wall 70-80 mm; in wooden 120-130 mm. Propylene dowels are placed under the screws in the stone wall; for bolts - collet anchors.

More for the garage

Another version of the garage workbench is already on the wall, and on the wall, on the left in fig. It can only be mounted on stone walls. Bench board folding 2-layer; each layer of plywood 10-12mm. Opening under the machine with a stepped inner edge. In this case, a “milling cutter” means a mini-drilling machine with a movable rotary table and a workpiece clamp. The design is convenient in that the chips fall immediately onto the floor.

If your car is something like a Daewoo or Chery with a 3-cylinder engine, and the garage is very small, then you can put a folding mini workbench with a lifting table top in it, on the right in the figure; it will also fit into the house for fine work (electronics, precision mechanics). The tabletop is suspended on a piano hinge, the legs are on card hinges. For folding, the legs are tucked under the tabletop (it would be useful to tie them with a leg), and the tabletop is lowered.

Note: for a cramped garage with an ordinary city car, a folding workbench-box may be optimal, see the video below.

Video: folding workbench box

Home station wagon

At home, they are engaged in smaller, but painstaking technical creativity: soldering, modeling, watchmaking, artistic sawing out of plywood, etc. For fine fine work, a universal workbench is suitable, the drawings of which and its accessories are given in fig. The resistance of the work surface and its vibration absorption in this case are not as important as evenness, smoothness and some adhesion (“stickiness” of parts), so the table top is covered with linoleum. Locksmith vices for this workbench need small, with screw clamping.

More about plywood

In fact, it is undesirable to work with metal “roughly” on plywood, because. she calls back well. If, however, the pillow of the board of the locksmith's workbench is nevertheless made of plywood, then a frame (frame) must also be glued to its bottom on the PVA, also made of plywood, see fig. Then it is desirable to cover the upper (working side) first with unlined linoleum, and then lay steel on it.

To the rising shift

Another case where making a workbench out of plywood is justified is a student's workbench for a child. Pedagogical considerations play a role here: let him learn to feel the material and not to beat for nothing, but to work carefully. For the same purpose, the masters of the past deliberately gave students a bad instrument.

Workbenches in the country

When a country house or other light wooden structure is still under construction, there is no time for bench wisdom, you need at least something on which you can perform simple carpentry work. For such a case, you can quickly put together a carpentry workbench for giving from improvised materials, on the left in fig. The design is remarkable in that it clearly and fully embodies the principle: we do good things with bad equipment.

For subsequent work on the arrangement of the dacha, a mini-workbench is useful, on the right in fig. With a minimum consumption of material and an extremely simple design, it is stable enough for ordinary carpentry work in all respects, because. the middle of the workbench is supported by a pair of struts. If you put them on bolts, the workbench will turn out to be collapsible and stand in the pantry from weekend to weekend. For disassembly, after releasing the struts, the spacer is removed with them, and the legs are tucked under the board. Finally, for a summer residence, inhabited permanently or all summer, with a master owner, by the way, you will have a more complex, but fully functional folding workbench, see the video below.

Reading time ≈ 3 minutes

In any private house, workshop or garage, a carpentry workbench is a very necessary item. With its help it is convenient to make or repair any things, it also combines the functions of a table and a tool shelf at the same time. It can be equipped with a bench vise, and a machine for sharpening various tools can be installed on it. If you buy a metal workbench in a store, then it will cost a considerable amount of money, but it is quite possible to make a workbench from wood with your own hands.

Necessary tools and materials

So, for the independent manufacture of a workbench in the garage, you will need the following tools:

• Hacksaw or electric jigsaw;
• Roulette;
• Square;
• Building level;
• Spanners;
• Drill;
• Screwdriver.

Materials:

• bars for supports;
• 2 sheets of plywood or OSB (one of the sheets is cut out under the shelf of the required size);
• boards for the frame;
• self-tapping screws;
• bolts;
• washers;
• nuts.

Before work, it is necessary to make a drawing of a workbench with dimensions for ease of assembly.

Step-by-step instructions for making a workbench

For the manufacture of the upper frame, it is necessary to saw off the boards based on the required size of the workbench (see photo).

Using self-tapping screws, fix 2 long and 2 short boards so that a rectangular frame is obtained. Using a tape measure, mark the distance to the middle of the frame, and fix the remaining short board perpendicularly, between two long boards, attaching it with self-tapping screws from both ends.

To make the legs of the workbench, you will need to saw off 6 equal bars. On the inside of the resulting base, fasten one leg to each corner of the frame with bolts, washers and nuts (see workbench diagram).

For the rigidity of the structure, it is necessary to put additional boards, which will also serve as the basis for the lower shelf. To do this, you need to saw off 4 boards.

With a tape measure, you need to measure an equal distance from each leg of 30 cm, at the resulting level, fix the board to the back of the structure to 3 legs, and from the front, fix the board between the extreme and middle legs, in the place where the future shelf is planned.

The remaining two boards must be fixed to the legs, at the same level as the boards for the shelves.

From one or more sheets of plywood or OSB, using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw, we cut out the necessary segments. We fix them to the top of the workbench flush with self-tapping screws. Additionally, a sheet of hardboard can be fixed on top, because. it can be easily replaced with a new one if the old one is badly worn out. The bottom shelf is made according to the same scheme. The distance between the extreme and middle legs of the workbench is measured with a tape measure, a sheet of material is cut out according to this size and placed on the resulting base.

When attaching legs or crossbars, it is necessary to use a square to obtain an equal distance between the parts of the structure. With the help of a level, at the place of installation, you need to check whether the workbench made with your own hands is level. In the event of a slope, it must be leveled by placing wooden chips under the legs of the workbench.

When a major renovation is underway in a home, it is essential that everything is at hand at any time, which will allow you to make the most of your time. To do this, it is important to properly organize the workplace of the home master, if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During repair or construction, a significant place is occupied by woodwork. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and long. Rational use of time and resources will help the desktop, also known as the workbench. Make it possible at home.

For most men, the garage is both a "home" for a car, and a storage room and a workshop at the same time.

Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only for the period of repair or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household standing on the ground. The carpentry workbench that appeared on the farm will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives a number of advantages compared to using a workbench rented or bought in a building supermarket.

1. He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further home improvement.
2. Gain additional management experience and practical skills.
3. Get at your disposal a comfortable desktop, suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
4. If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.

Therefore, in one room (well, if there is a basement) it is necessary to place racks and a workplace.

Table types

There are various types of workbenches that have different purposes.

1. Joiner's workbench for the manufacture of wooden parts. It is convenient to process small wooden products on it, but is not intended for primary processing of wood. For him, you need a countertop three meters long and one meter wide. Details on it are fixed with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
2. The carpentry fixture is much larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, timber and other wood blanks are cut.
3. Universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its table top is reinforced with metal band and has wood and metal clips.

There is a table for locksmith work and car maintenance in almost every garage.

There is another definition of the types of structures according to the possible location.

1. Mobile (portable). Used to perform small work with small parts. It is comfortable and light enough. It can be easily moved from one place to another. The carpenter's table is equipped with a vice of small or medium size, which allows it to be used for small plumbing work.
2. The stationary desktop is massive and stable. It can be used to process lumber, but such a workbench is unlikely to be useful to a home craftsman if he does not constantly engage in woodworking.
3. Prefabricated on connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: at any time it can be supplemented with special equipment and make the necessary changes, depending on the tasks being solved.

And as a rule - it is self-made, that is, made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.

What type of construction the home master chooses depends on what goals and objectives he sets:

• the desktop is needed for the processing of small parts and the manufacture of small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
• the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wood parts;
• a workbench will be needed to carry out the primary processing of wood, turning it into boards, timber on an ongoing basis;
• it is intended to use the table for occasional processing of small wood and metal parts.

The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.

Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who does not have the skills to handle metalwork tools can make a product.

A garage workbench is often compared to a desk because it provides the convenience of a variety of jobs and makes it possible to keep all the necessary tools at hand.

Material selection

To make a workbench with your own hands, the master needs wood and metal. If you intend to make a small table, then a wooden base will be suitable for it. Laminated chipboard, pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5 - 7 cm is suitable for the countertop. For a stationary table, you can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially metal.

In addition to the countertop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.

And if at the disposal of the home master there is an unnecessary desk, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.

The workplace of a motorist must be durable and stable.

An old door made of solid canvas will find application in the design. It will make an excellent durable countertop that does not even require processing.

Cabinets with tools and consumables (drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.) must be placed under the table.

The use of improvised materials available on the farm to make a carpentry table with your own hands will save time and money for the home craftsman.

It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of the table; you need to put your legs somewhere during sedentary work.

You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that an intermediate option is considered the most acceptable, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood, and then sheathed with sheet metal.

However, both sides should be, if not sets of drawers, then at least a set of shelves.

A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. What is needed for this, he knows well.

The workbench in the garage should not be part of the rack, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hanging tool storage.

And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:

• metal corner;
• steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
• plywood;
• screws;
• anchor bolts;
• square pipe;
• wooden planks ;
• self-tapping screws for metal;
• dye.

Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.

What tools will be needed

A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in the home workshop. You don't need a lot of tools to make it.

You can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard on a steel sheet, and a galvanized sheet on a wooden surface.

You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• electric jigsaw or hand saw;
• a hammer.

First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.

Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal desktop, you cannot do without a welding machine and electrodes.

The height of the workbench should be such that you do not have to bend your back, and at the same time, stand on tiptoe.

Where to put?

Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine for what and how often the table will be used, where it will be placed. You can't do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its dimensions, material and manufacturing procedure.

The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or barn), where there is natural light. It is also important that there are electrical sockets near the workbench to connect power tools and a lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or straight, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.

Design the dimensions of your work area.

Then the parameters of the future design are determined. Despite the existing standards regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home master will proceed from expediency and the actual space available, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts are freely placed here, without strict adherence to dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the countertop.

The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.

Another important parameter is the height of the workbench. There are various ways to determine it, ranging from exact mathematical calculations to folk experience, which proposes to consider the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor as the optimal indicator. An experienced craftsman can make it adjustable.

A perforated metal sheet is perfect as a wall for placing tools.

After determining the main parameters of the product, you can proceed with the assembly.

1. First, the legs are fixed (four supports from a steel angle, which are also connected by angles and fixed by welding from above and below.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
2. After the frame is made, they begin to prepare the countertop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and tightly fastened. The tabletop is connected to the frame with bolts. The working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.

After fixing it, you need to cover the cover with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). The metal sheet is fixed on the surface of the countertop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned.

The workpieces should be cut before the start of welding.

The main work on the manufacture of the workbench is completed at this point, but to make the structure more rigid and attach to the floor, metal corners can be welded from below. Optionally, it can be equipped with drawers, shelves for tools.

We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or a steel strip.

Of the necessary equipment on the workbench, you must definitely find a place for a vice. They are hung on the front side of the countertop and are used to fasten products. If there are often large parts in the work, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.

The key is to reinforce all 90° joints.

Under the workbench, you can mount shelves where you can place various fixtures, the right tool or fold the processed parts.

Be sure to impregnate the tree with an antiseptic and fire impregnation.

Carefully made with your own hands, the carpentry workbench will become a convenient tool for the work of a home craftsman.

This design is close to the ideal of a do-it-yourself garage workbench.

VIDEO: do-it-yourself workbench.

Creating a workbench with your own hands: 50 photo ideas