Brickwork on a wooden base. Brickwork on wooden floor

When it is required to install a stove in a bathhouse on a wooden floor, this can be done while observing all fire safety requirements.

According to these requirements, a wooden floor is allowed only if the floor is protected by non-combustible materials, and is also insulated from the heat of the stove.

How can you implement such a scheme at the lowest cost and at the same time not burn your own bathhouse?

Use of heat-insulating materials

To reliably protect the wooden floor from fire, you can use special heat-insulating materials.

Firstly, you can use sheet minerite - a material that can isolate the stove from any wooden parts. It is not enough just to put the furnace on a sheet of mineralite. For efficient operation, it will be necessary to equip a ventilated gap, which will contribute to heat dissipation in the layer between the furnace metal and the minerite.

In exactly the same way, the wooden walls and ceiling next to the stove can be protected - an air gap, a mineralite sheet and again an air gap. At the same time, a sheet of mineralite on the wall can be fixed using bushings made of heat-insulating material.

And to protect the floor, you can put a minerite on a non-continuous brickwork in several bricks. The wider the gaps between the bricks, the more efficiently the heat coming from the metal furnace will dissipate.

Steel sheet on a brick base

Secondly, you can use an ordinary thick steel sheet that will separate the stove from the wooden floor. In this case, the sheet is mounted on a brick base with ventilation ducts. A thickness of less than 2 bricks at the base is not allowed.

It turns out that the sheet itself will be separated by an air gap from both the floor and the stove, and will itself be a kind of radiator that dissipates heat into the air.

Combination of materials

The combination of metal and mineralite, which will lie on a brick base, will give the best effect. Between all layers of this "pie" there should be at least a small air gap.

In this case, the floor under such protection will heat up no more than the air in the steam room.

At the same time, it should be remembered that in front of the stove, a metal furnace sheet must be laid on the wooden floor without fail. The firebox protects the wooden floor from coals that can fall out of the firebox door of the sauna stove.

Other fire fighting measures

So that a metal stove installed on a wooden floor in a bath does not cause you trouble, you should also take additional precautions:

1. Do not leave the sauna stove unattended during the fire.
2. Always close the firebox door tightly with a latch and check this moment if you are going to leave the sauna room.
3. Use dry firewood for the furnace, do not burn garbage, sawdust, wood dust in the furnace of the sauna stove.
4. Make it a rule in the bank with small bookmarks of firewood.

Modern construction is associated with the use of combined structures. Brick, wood floors, concrete walls in one combination can combine materials that are similar in nature. During the construction of buildings, various types of brickwork are used, which may have a ventilated air cavity, provide a layer of thermal insulation on the walls or on the floor. The use of dissimilar materials in the construction of walls of buildings or laying the floor is due to the improvement in the quality characteristics of buildings.

The combination of different building materials significantly improves the quality of construction.

Brickwork is a technology for the construction of buildings and structures using bricks. In the process of masonry, strict adherence to the basic rules is necessary, which allows achieving maximum strength and solidity of structures. Since materials must withstand a certain level of load, adherence to bricklaying technology is very important. Each brick wall must bear the load of its own weight, and also serve as a support for building structures, for example, the floor of the second floor. They transfer their weight to the brick walls, which in turn exert a load on the foundation.

Construction of combined structures

According to Russian and European construction traditions, the construction of two-story houses involves the construction of the first floor from stone or brick, and the second from wood. The construction of combined houses made of timber and brick is a profitable option that allows you to:

• reduce the cost of the building, since brick houses are very expensive;
• use the advantages of brick and timber in order to reduce the load on the base;
• reduce the weight of the building, since the second floor made of timber will weigh less than the first floor with brick walls;
• wooden walls on the second floor will provide recreational areas where bedrooms, etc. will be located.

Brick is a non-combustible product, and its use is justified for the construction of the floor and walls of the first floor. It is there that the kitchen, the living room with a fireplace and other types of premises where there is an increased risk of fire are located. The floor and walls made of wood cool down rather slowly, and they heat up quickly. The use of wood for the construction of a building will not only save heat, but also facilitate the process of space heating. Combined houses are often built in summer cottages and household plots, so space heating requires fuel procurement in smaller volumes.

Combined houses made of timber and brick are a profitable option, since the construction will be more durable than a building erected only from timber. Brick is not exposed to the damaging effects of moisture, so it is an ideal material for building walls on the ground floor. The brick base must be as reliable as possible. The presence of the second floor of a house made of wood and brick should provide the owners with an atmosphere of coziness and comfort.

Characteristics of the floor and walls of brick

The cost of building internal and external walls is usually up to 30% of the cost of the entire building. Each brick wall is an important element of the building. If we compare the walls of the building and its elements, then their weight should be 50%. The type of building construction divides the walls into load-bearing and self-supporting.

Solid load-bearing external walls are erected from the material for building envelopes. The thickness of the walls that carry the load is dictated by calculations that determine the indicators of thermal conductivity and strength. The walls of the building are made thick, depending on their design temperature in the winter. The average temperature of the 5 coldest days of the year is taken into account.

The walls must have a minimum thickness, which is accepted on the condition that the temperature in the building does not fall below 18 ° C in winter when there is heating. Unheated rooms that are adjacent to heated rooms usually have a thickness parameter equal to 0.7 of the value of this indicator for external walls.

In the process of determining the size of the thickness of the internal walls, it will be necessary to take into account their strength, sound insulation, etc. In terms of construction costs, floors and walls made of lightweight concrete will cost 1.5-2 times cheaper than brick structures. The architectural design of the external walls of the house can be characterized by varying degrees of complexity of brickwork:

1. Simple walls.
2. Medium difficulty.
3. Complex walls.
4. Particularly difficult.

When erecting simple walls, there are no complications in the masonry, with the exception of simple belts and cornices, the height of which is not more than 4 brick rows. If the walls are of medium complexity, then they can occupy up to 20% of the area of ​​the outer surface of the outer walls. Complex and especially complex structures are characterized by the presence of complicated parts that occupy up to 40% of the front side of the walls from the outside.

In the process of reconstructing dilapidated housing and building a new one, combined walls and floors are often built with an outer layer of ceramic bricks and an inner layer of timber.

The main advantages of brick structures are fire resistance, impact resistance, resistance to atmospheric factors. Among the positive properties of wood, low thermal conductivity, environmental friendliness, high heat capacity, and bending strength are noted.

Arrangement of the foundation for combined structures

Wood is a relatively water-intensive and decay-prone material. If masonry fits snugly against a wooden frame, this causes condensation to form. For example, a brick wall is covered with moisture as a result of temperature changes during the day. The formation of a fungus (mold) leads to the gradual destruction of not only wood, but also the cement mortar that holds the masonry together. To prevent negative phenomena, a ventilation device will be required in the space between the log house and the brick surface of the floor or wall. To ensure convective air movement, it is necessary to provide small holes in the lower part of the brick wall near the floor.

Brick and wood are different in density, so the loads of the log house and brickwork on the foundation are different. For example, a brick wall of 1 m per 1 lin. m of the foundation exerts a load of 200-400 kg, and a log house made of wood - no more than 150 kg. These features must be taken into account during the construction process.

Heavy concrete base requires layer-by-layer compaction of the foundation and floor structure. If the foundation is old or partially restored, then it is dangerous to reconstruct brickwork. In this case, a complete replacement of the base of the house with a new one will be required.

Seasonal fluctuations in temperature, freezing and thawing of the soil cause an increase in loads on the base. If it is arranged incorrectly, this can lead not only to its shift, but also to the appearance of stress in the entire structure. If the log house is wooden, then there may be no danger of structural shift. To reduce the risk of cracking brickwork, the necessary devices are installed that can give the structure an additional level of rigidity. At the same time, they will not be an obstacle to free air ventilation.

Combined constructions of brick walls and floors, as well as a wooden frame, are more complex than ordinary walls or floors made of brick or wood. They are widely used at present, but their positive characteristics will allow the use of these designs in the future.

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Bricklaying on a wooden floor: the benefits

When building multi-storey private houses, a combination of dissimilar materials is often used, especially brick and wood. This is due to the fact that such a connection significantly improves the quality characteristics of the building, provides the owners with homeliness and comfort.

Design features

Due to the difference in density, moisture resistance and thermal conductivity of materials, a combined structure made of wood and brick assumes the presence of a ventilation device between the frame and the wall surface. So, to ensure the convective movement of air near the floor, it is necessary to make small holes. In addition, it should be borne in mind that brickwork creates a load of up to 400 kilograms per 1 linear meter of foundation, and a wooden frame - a maximum of 150 kg.

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Advantages and disadvantages

Brickwork in combination with wooden beams allows:

• reduce material costs, since building stone is an expensive pleasure;
• ensure long-term operation;
• reduce the load, pressure on the base;
• provide quick and less expensive space heating, as wood warms up better than brick.

If the waterproofing of the foundation is not done correctly, then it will be damp between the tree and the brick wall.

A brick wall erected on a wooden floor has a number of disadvantages. In case of violation of the laying technology for arranging the foundation, with a probability of 90%, condensation will form at the junction of materials, since wood is a material subject to decay. With the accumulation of excess moisture, not only wooden structures are destroyed, but also the cement mortar that holds the brickwork together.

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Method of laying bricks on a wooden floor

The construction of walls, partitions made of bricks on a wooden floor must begin with the preparation of the base, since wood is a rather springy material that can lead to the destruction of the structure. If the boards are located perpendicular to the intended masonry, you should saw through the necessary recess for the brick. A new lag is placed on top of it. If the bars are parallel to the intended masonry, 2-3 boards are removed at the construction site and the embankment is removed. If there is a basement, the wall will be located on the ceiling of the cellar. If there is no subfloor, concrete is mixed for the base.

To prevent rotting of wooden boards, it is necessary to provide waterproofing to the concrete base.

After preparing the base, openings (maximum 4) are knocked out in the walls perpendicular to the future structure, 8 centimeters in width and a maximum of 40 cm in length. One and a half meters from the walls and 2-2.5 centimeters from the outer side of the masonry, vertical supports are placed, wedging the lower part. A guide is laid between them with a maximum thickness of 3 cm, a width of 15. The horizontal board should be 5 centimeters shorter than the intended design. At the upper end of the racks, small boards are placed, driving one nail into their outer edge (not completely). Staples are hammered into the supports themselves. Next, a thin rope is tied to the nails and pulled through the clamps in the racks, securing a counterweight at the ends. Nests in perpendicular walls are abundantly moistened, 1 centimeter of mortar is applied along the guide board.

When laying the first row, each new brick is pressed against the previous one with a cement-lime mixture, leveled. If necessary, the seams are supplemented with a construction bond. On the last stone in the row, the solution is applied from both ends. Bricks located in nests-openings are completely treated with mortar at the insertion points. At the end of the first row, the guide board is raised higher so that one of its halves is located above the masonry. Such actions must be continued until the end of the construction. Bricks in the last row are smeared with mortar from above and laid with brick fragments.

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How to make a brick floor with your own hands: a step-by-step guide with a photo

One of the main parts that any house should have is the floor; a lot of bricks may be required to equip such a coating. However, it is necessary not only to prepare building materials, but also to thoroughly study the technology of work.

To install the floor, you will need a large amount of bricks, so you need to calculate in advance the required amount of building material.

The arrangement of the cellar premises deserves special attention. It is often confused with a basement, although its main purpose is the long-term storage of vegetables, fruits and vegetables. In this regard, the cellar must meet high requirements regarding indicators of air humidity and compliance with the temperature regime. It is equally important to ensure that the room is well ventilated. The floor of the room in this case is not only the base of the room, but also acts as a barrier to moisture from the ground.

Brick flooring

Increasing interest is attracted by the brick floor, similar to what could be seen in the ancient wine cellars of France. Since the cellar is located directly under the building or structure, the arrangement of the floor is carried out using a special technology.

The brick floor is able to withstand heavy loads, so it can be laid in places with high traffic.

There are several types of floors used in the arrangement of basements and cellars. You can build according to existing technology or improve it taking into account the specifics of your own facility. Most often, the floor is laid out with red solid bricks. This material has excellent performance characteristics, so the brick floor in the cellar will serve you for a very long time.

Another advantage of using such a material is the excellent appearance of the finished coating. Red brick gives the floor solidity and allows you to immerse yourself in the atmosphere of the Middle Ages. Solid brick is characterized by durability and amazing strength, which is of fundamental importance for modern builders.

When decorating a brick floor, red solid brick is most often used, which has excellent technical characteristics.

What can be encountered during the work

The algorithm for performing work is determined by the choice of material for arranging the floor. If you decide to make the base of the cellar out of brick, you can use one of the following methods:

• according to the old method;
• with additional waterproofing.

The material for the manufacture of red brick is burnt clay, which is characterized by durability and resistance to moisture. The first technology is the most popular, since the finished floor will be able to "breathe". First of all, it is necessary to make an even base for laying building materials. A pillow of fine gravel or gravel is poured onto the prepared base. The height of this pillow should be about 10-15 cm. As soon as the layer is ready, it is necessary to compact the pillow.

Only after that you can start preparing the clay solution. Its consistency should be similar to the consistency of a thick yeast dough. In a brick house, the clay mortar is laid out on a flat pillow with a layer about 20 cm thick. Now you can lay the red brick. Products are placed flat and slightly sunk in clay mortar. Experienced craftsmen recommend placing products as close to each other as possible so that adjacent bricks are in contact. To achieve a similar effect, each brick is checked before laying. In case of detection of irregularities and protrusions, they are first knocked down. This method of arranging the floor corresponds to the old technology used several centuries ago. The flooring can be used as soon as the clay mortar is completely dry.

When groundwater passes close to the surface of the earth, a waterproofing layer is additionally laid when arranging the floor.

If groundwater passes close to the foundation of the house, additional waterproofing of the subfloor base will be required. This means that construction will be carried out according to the second possible technology. First of all, you should make a gravel-sand cushion. Its thickness will be from 10 to 15 cm. The pillow must be rammed. Depending on the capabilities and preferences of the master, further:

• cover the surface with a clay layer;
• treated with bitumen and glued with roofing material.

Once the surface is dry, you can proceed to laying bricks. Experts recommend that work be carried out in a brick house by drowning products in cement mortar. This elementary technique allows you to make the floors more durable and prevent their deformation during operation.

When the entire cellar is lined with bricks, it is left for several days. This is necessary to ensure that the coating is neat, even. After that, the flooring is thoroughly moistened with water and the cement mortar is hammered into the seams. In a residential building, a hard brush or broom is used to perform work. The upper part of the joint can be filled with a grout.

Construction subtleties

Before starting the construction of the cellar, it is necessary to take into account several nuances of installing a brick floor. Flooring must be carried out on the most elevated surface, since a significant amount of moisture always accumulates in the lowlands. This negatively affects the durability of the floor structure and the entire house. It is necessary to clarify in advance the level of groundwater occurrence in order not to discover unpleasant surprises in the future.

Do not ignore the issues of waterproofing. It is necessary to completely exclude the possibility of water penetration into the cellar, otherwise the products in it will be spoiled. The steepness of the slopes of the premises determines the type of soil, so the survey of the area must be carried out even at the stage of preparing the pit.

When arranging a brick floor, increased attention should be paid to the level of groundwater and the arrangement of the waterproofing layer. The durability of the entire cellar depends on how well the preliminary reconnaissance of the area is performed.

Professionals lay out bricks in such a way that they are in close contact with each other. This not only increases the aesthetics of the flooring, but also makes it as reliable as possible.

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Make a brick floor in the house with your own hands

A brick floor does not correspond much to the modern idea of ​​\u200b\u200barranging floor coverings. But making a brick floor is quite easy, and besides, it has many advantages, the main ones being budget and durability.

The brick floor is quite easy to make, and its strength ensures long-term operation.

A building material known since antiquity, brick, can be successfully used in cases where it was originally planned to cover the base with tiles or porcelain stoneware. Visually, the floor will look no less picturesque, and construction costs will be significantly reduced. The cost of heat energy will also fall, since the brick floor has a low thermal conductivity.

Description of the brick floor

Experts recommend constructing brick floors in the case when a large amount of material has been purchased for construction: and now the walls in the brick house have already been erected, and there are plenty of blocks left. In order not to spend money on the purchase of expensive tiles, bricks are used to build the floor.

If desired, the brick can be replaced with paving slabs.

Such a base is quite safe in a residential building. With a rough surface, the bricks create a very durable and reliable, non-slip and fireproof floor. It will come in handy not only in the premises where people will live, but also in outbuildings: a garage, a barn, etc. High-quality burnt brick is able to withstand very serious loads, due to this it can be used in rooms for storing heavy objects and mechanisms.

With the same success, a durable and warm floor can be created from ordinary paving slabs with a brick-like configuration. Both the first and the second can be an excellent alternative to expensive materials for finishing work in a brick house.

Production of brick flooring

The manufacture of the base from fired clay blocks is not associated with any technological difficulties. If necessary, the work can be done independently. To equip the base of bricks in a residential building with your own hands, you will need to prepare:

• ordinary building bricks or paving slabs;
• lime-cement mortar;
• cement mortar;
• shovel;
• rail for alignment;
• water level;
• pick hammer.

Cement mortar is needed to fasten bricks.

The composition of the lime-cement mortar, which is more often used for plastering the walls of a house, includes lime, sand and Portland cement of the M400 brand in a ratio of 1.5: 5: 1. You can use other proportions: 1:7:1, 1.5:7:1, etc.

Cement mortar is made at the rate of 400 kg of cement per 1 m³ of pure river sand.

The optimal arrangement of the base of bricks looks when finishing the basement or first floor in the building. The upper floors, taking into account the large weight of the elements, it is not advisable to finish with bricks.

Material laying algorithm

Since the fired brick floor will have a significant mass, before starting work, it is necessary to take care of the reliability of the floor coverings on which the elements will be laid. So, the foundations of the basement or first floor to be finished must be made of concrete with a grade of at least M80.

They are thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust and well moisturized. On top with a shovel, a lime-cement mixture is distributed with a layer of about 2 cm, leveled with a rail. A brick is laid on the prepared pillow. To make a floor from fired elements, you can use 2 types of laying: flat and edgewise.

When finishing a basement floor or an outbuilding intended for storing heavy objects, it is recommended to install the elements on edge.

For a brick floor, you need a solid concrete base.

A brick laid out in this way will last longer, it will successfully withstand the loads exerted on it. In addition, this method of finishing will create a warm floor that will protect the room from the penetration of cold.

When arranging the first floor, you can use both the first and second laying options. In any case, her technique is the same: the elements are lightly pressed into the lime-cement mixture by tapping them with a hammer. The joint width must be 10 mm. The horizontality of each laid out row is checked by a water level. If necessary, the elements are trimmed with a rail.

When the floor is laid, the joints are poured with a lime-cement mixture, and after it dries, they are rubbed with cement mortar.

If a warm floor is equipped in a gazebo or on a terrace, it is permissible to use only sand instead of a lime-cement mixture. It is laid out on a layer of gravel 10 cm high, well moistened and rammed. The gaps between the elements are also covered and rubbed with sand.

Surface sealing

Moisture has a destructive effect on the floor of burnt blocks, therefore, after the cement mortar has completely dried, it is necessary to seal the coating. The event is carried out as follows:

1. Using a sponge or a large brush, thoroughly wash the warm floor with clean water and detergent. Let it dry, leaving it for a few hours.
2. Then a special sealant for brick surfaces is applied, which can be purchased at a hardware store. The substance does not change the appearance and characteristics of the brick, but gives the coating a shine, protects it from moisture and aggressive liquids.
3. After drying, the surface is treated again.

To maintain the appearance of the floor, it is necessary to use the sealant annually, applying one layer of the substance.

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Brick floor: how to lay out, selection of materials

To ensure aesthetic appeal against the background of strength and reliability, a brick floor is built in the house. It will provide quality and decorative effect. Such a building will protect from the cold, will decorate both a private house and a summer cottage. Brick floor has advantages and disadvantages. In order for the final product to meet the requirements, it is important to follow the rules for selecting the material.

Pros and cons of a brick floor

Before you make a brick floor with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with its advantages and disadvantages. Brick is an affordable material, malleable in work, allows you to experiment with design. Its irreplaceable qualities are stability and durability. It is made from natural ingredients. Old brick floors can also be made to increase environmental friendliness. Such a building will give the room an aesthetic appeal. The material also offers slip resistance. Main disadvantages:

• brick hardness;
• uneven surface;
• not suitable for the construction of the second and higher floors;
• damaged by moisture.

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What do they face at work?

Construction can be carried out in two ways: standard and with additional waterproofing. The brick floor is suitable only for the construction of the first floors, to the extent of its weight. There are subtleties of construction in the bathroom or in a brick house. They practice the opportunity to insulate the floor with the help of additional stages of construction. During operation, they encounter groundwater, which can be located close to the surface of the earth. In such cases, the floor is built by the second method. The standard step is as follows:

One of the base layers that is done before masonry is gravel.

1. Make a gravel-sand cushion with a thickness of 15 to 20 cm and tamp.
2. Cover the upper stand with clay or process with bitumen.
3. After drying, the surface begins to lay the brick.
4. Moisten the building with water and fill the seams with cement.

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Selection of materials

Choosing the right tools is an important part of the building process. It is necessary to measure the size of the site and purchase bricks for masonry. The purchase is made with a margin, because the material can be spoiled. To fix the bricks together, cement is used, but to save it, it is diluted with sifted sand. Also, during construction, auxiliary elements will be needed:

• circular saw with a disc for stone;
• boards to stand on them and not step on cement coatings;
• rope for marking sites;
• roller;
• brush.

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How to post?

The first steps

After leveling the floor, it is covered with sand.

Level the surface of the raw floor. After that, the entire surface is covered with sifted sand, 2 to 3 cm wide. Floor insulation requires the installation of insulation batteries. The sand is compacted and leveled. In order to make it easier to lay out sand at the same level, an iron pipe is initially buried on both sides of the room. As a result, sand leveling runs along the upper edge of the buried metal - an auxiliary element of the building.

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cutting bricks

To build an even and aesthetic floor, the bricks are evenly cut. Regardless of the pattern, cutting is done with a circular saw. The herringbone pattern is considered popular. At first glance, the construction of this seems difficult, but during operation, the myth dissipates. Old brick floors do not need this step. It will be enough to simply chip off the material, because evenness will not play an important role.

The cutting of bricks is done carefully to avoid the cost of new material.

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You can correctly lay the material with a rubber mallet.

You need to lay bricks on the floor with a large level in your hands. The beginning of the masonry is done from one end of the room to the other. If there are unfilled edges, you do not need to fill them with smaller pieces of material. Their processing is done at the end of construction with a cement coating. A rubber mallet is used as an auxiliary element for leveling bricks with each other. It will help to evenly lay out the material relative to each other according to a given pattern.

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Perimeter processing

At the edges, sometimes, the empty space is filled with notched bricks, but this can ruin the floor pattern in a private house. It is recommended to fill the gaps with fine-grained concrete or ordinary cement. Sand is poured on top, which was used at the initial stage. As a result, the entire perimeter is aligned relative to the level of the laid brick.

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The appearance of cracks

At the end of the work, unsealed gaps between brick laying will be evident. As soon as the perimeter of the entire floor is processed, these cracks are filled. Sweep the sifted sand into empty areas. It will settle over time, so this work needs to be done several times. After 2-3 such procedures, the material will be completely compacted.

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How to tile on a wood floor

Ceramic tiles laid on the floor are incredibly functional and practical, and in the bathroom and in the kitchen, they are simply irreplaceable. However, today quite a lot of owners of their houses with wooden floors do not even consider or completely refuse such a finishing option. Motivating his refusal by the fact that it is impossible to perform a full-fledged screed on a wooden floor, it is so difficult to obtain a sufficiently rigid base. Therefore, the owners of such houses have a question, how to lay tiles on a wooden floor? Is it worth laying it or is it necessary to choose some other coating.

How to avoid mistakes

It is strongly not recommended to lay ceramic tiles on the surface of a wooden floor, since the wooden floor structure lacks the necessary rigidity. During operation, it will still walk to some extent, so there is a fairly high probability that the cement screed constructed over the wooden floor can quickly collapse, and the tile laid on top will crack or completely fall off. In addition to all the wooden structure, the base can not last long, but under the laid tiles it starts to rot much faster. Today, however, using the most modern materials using the same technologies, this problem can be solved successfully, while saving time and money. The main task is to prepare a fairly high-quality base for the laid tiles. Therefore, it is necessary to get rid of all the shortcomings identified on the wooden base, making it sufficiently rigid, durable, and as even as possible, bringing it closer in properties to the concrete base.

Foundation preparation steps

• To make a sufficiently high-quality laying of tiles on the floor, you first need to check the condition of the existing wooden floor. Therefore, the floor covering and the underlying substrate must first be removed. If the wooden boards and logs are still in fairly good condition and when moving along them they do not bend, spring or creak, then they can be left as a base.
• Next, the laid logs are aligned horizontally using a level. After leveling, a draft floor is laid on the logs from previously removed boards or purchased again, or 12 mm moisture-resistant plywood (FK brand), such plywood will not sag under the weight of the laid tiles.
  
• After horizontal alignment, the logs, and later the laid subfloor, must be treated with protective impregnations or an antiseptic. Such processing will protect the wood from the appearance of mold and decay on it. Between the lags to improve heat and sound insulation, you can lay insulation or expanded clay.
  
• The next stage of preparation is fastening with screws (not nails) plywood or subfloor boards laid across the lag. A small gap of 3 or 5 mm should be left between the sheets of plywood or laid boards for a little ventilation, or you can make a hole in the floor so that the wooden base breathes.
  
• Next, waterproofing is laid on the laid subfloor, which can be made of parchment, bituminous, paraffin paper or polyethylene. As a result of the equipped waterproofing, moisture from the ground or concrete surfaces will not be able to penetrate to the substrate. For waterproofing a wooden structure, in addition to flooring materials, modern special mastics or solutions can be used.

Choosing a base before laying tiles on a wood floor.

After completing all the preparatory work, you need to choose one of the options for creating a fairly solid foundation.

Stages of work

Sheets selected from a certain material are screwed to the floor with self-tapping screws. In this case, it must be taken into account that the joints between the sheets are located above the boards, and not above the cracks, otherwise the constructed base will not be strong. The seams are glued for reliability with special glue for GKL or GVL. If there is still a need to increase the rigidity of the base, then it is still possible to lay sheets of GKL or GVL in two layers so that the seams of the laid second layer are located in the middle of the laid first sheets.

In those rooms where the humidity is much higher, special attention should be paid to the equipment for waterproofing the junction of the wall with the floor. Most often, mounting foam is used for this. However, the surest and most reliable option would be to use membrane waterproofing. For its device, a strip of 30 cm wide is cut out of the waterproofing material, one side of this strip is attached to the wall, and the other is inserted between the GVL and the subfloor. For reliability, the joints are glued with sealant.

After laying, the sheets (gypsum fiber) are coated with a deep penetration primer. The applied primer will remove dust from the base surface and significantly improve the adhesion of the laid coating. After completing the preparation of the base, you can safely proceed to laying ceramic tiles as if on a concrete screed. When constructing a dry screed, care must be taken to ensure that all purchased materials match each other. This is especially true for tile adhesive, so for laying tiles on GKL or GVL, there should be a note about this on the package of the purchased adhesive. Despite all the apparent complexity of how to lay tiles on a wooden floor, when creating a hard base for it using a dry screed, this method quickly enough allows you to get the desired result and, importantly, relatively inexpensively.

Brick has long been one of the most popular artificial building materials in our country. Many buildings and structures are made with it, so almost every self-respecting builder must know how to lay bricks. This material is in demand not only as the main one, but is also used to decorate certain elements.

Brick laying tools

At the construction site, bricks are laid in overalls and using construction tools. It is recommended to use tight clothing with long sleeves so that particles of the solution do not get on the body. They can have a negative effect on the skin. Protect your eyes with goggles, and protect your hands easily with thick rubber-based mittens/gloves.

Laying at a height of more than one and a half meters without a special platform or scaffolding will not work, so you need to take care of their construction in advance. They are made from wooden beams and boards.

It is strictly forbidden to build brickwork using a ladder or ladder!

The minimum set of devices and tools will be mandatory:

• trowel / trowel triangular or quadrangular;
• level, it is desirable to have one short up to half a meter and one long at least a meter;
• cord no less than the length of the wall;
• a device for jointing a seam;
• pick for brick trimming;
• plumb;
• roulette;
• square.

In many operations, a trowel is involved. It is convenient for applying cement mortar and for removing its excess. The back of her handle knocks out bricks in a wet mortar.

Preparation of cement slurry

Proper bricklaying is not possible without the preparation of a high-quality aqueous solution of sand and cement. It is customary to take the ratio of bulk solids from 1:4 to 1:6. If there is an inscription 400 on the cement package, then no more than 4 servings of sand are added per serving. In the "five hundredth" mark, it is customary to mix 5 servings.

With manual mixing, it will be more convenient to mix them in a dry form, and then, adding several liters of water, form a slurry from the entire mass. The result is a mixture that can be held in the form of a cake on a trowel, then it is relatively easy to plastically deform when pressed.

When working with hollow material, the penetration of the mortar into the cavity of the brick is not allowed. This can reduce the thermal insulation properties of the building. One specialist should not knead more than 40-50 liters of solution at a time, since at an average consumption a large mass can quickly dehydrate and solidify in a prepared container.

If there will be several people laying a brick wall, then a concrete mixer will help them speed up. Its volume is selected in accordance with the professional capabilities of the involved specialists.

Variety of bricklaying tools

Most often, even walls are laid out of brick with their own hands, less often it is used to form curly structures. Therefore, its most popular form is a bar of standard sizes with smooth edges and right angles. Manufacturers offer two large product groups that differ in composition:

• silicate brick group (based on lime with sand);
• ceramic group (they use baked clay).

Clay-based material is divided into the following types:

• facing (front) brick;
• ordinary (building) material;
• special (heat-resistant).

It is customary to display walls in ordinary blocks, on which it is subsequently supposed to apply a finishing material, for example, a layer of plaster or decorative cladding. The cladding type is prefabricated in a uniform color with a high quality surface. The material has a higher cost and does not imply the presence of additional outer skin.

For facing bricks, a solution is prepared with the addition of color to make the wall look homogeneous

It is customary to lay chimneys, stoves or fireplaces with special blocks. Refractory properties make it possible to form a firebox into one brick, isolating it from external surfaces.

Several types of dimensions are used. The most popular are the single format (250x120x65 mm) and one and a half dimensions (250x120x88 mm). In construction, both solid and hollow blocks are used. The second type works better for thermal insulation.

For reference! How to insulate a brick chimney? For non-residential buildings, asbestos-cement sheets are used. Compared to ordinary plaster, this material has 2.5 times higher thermal insulation properties, condensation does not collect on them and the sheets do not burn. The disadvantage of this method is the release of carcinogens when heated. For residential buildings, it is recommended to use metal sheets, which also prevent fires. To increase thermal insulation, you will need a non-combustible insulation.

VIDEO: Mistakes of beginner masons in brickwork

Varieties of masonry

There are several ways to lay a brick. The thickness of the wall or room partition will depend on this.

Brickwork is a structure made of bricks laid in a certain order and fastened together with mortar.

Traditionally, several techniques are used:

• a quarter of a brick - the timber is installed horizontally with an axis along the wall, relying on the smaller side, while the width of the wall or partition will be a minimum of 65 or 88 mm, depending on the type of material;
• half a brick will provide a wall with a width of 120 mm, which is enough for summer buildings or as a decor for a cinder block wall;
• masonry in one brick is used for external walls, it will be 250 mm;
• a wall width of one and a half bricks will provide better thermal insulation, as it has 340 mm;
• for a two-story building, we lay a wall with a width of at least 510 mm in two bricks.

It is necessary to lay brickwork at a temperature above 5ºС, since at a lower value the mortar may not provide a quality hitch.

Direct masonry procedure

Before laying the brick correctly, it is necessary to wait until the foundation has completely solidified. This will prevent the walls from sagging in certain areas, which can lead to the destruction of the structure. Under the first layer, waterproofing is laid out in the form of a double line of roofing material. It will create a barrier to moisture and will not allow the walls to get wet, absorbing water from the ground.

In the process of building a building, you yourself need to control the horizontal line for laying and the verticality of the corners. In the first case, a stretched cord along the entire wall and a level helps, and in the second, a plumb line is used.

The initial row laid on the foundation sets the tone for the entire wall, so it is important to approach its laying responsibly, avoiding distortions. A mortar is placed between the bricks, which should provide a gap of 5-6 mm. The rows have the same seam of 7-8 mm. It is desirable to control the first rows after each block with the help of a level. It is necessary to apply a small amount of mortar on the sides of the stacked bars.

Before making a wall, it is necessary to mark the corners, bringing them to a height of three or four levels. Vertical seams should not be through; for this, each bar is shifted along the axis relative to the previous row. You can eliminate the bulge (protrusion of the masonry section relative to the entire wall) or depression in advance by applying a level vertically to the front side of the wall.

We put the mortar in place under the laying with a trowel or trowel. It forms a “bed”, and when laying a brick on it with your own hands, there will be a gap of several millimeters. We tap the trowel handle on the upper surface until the block sits at the level measured by the height of the stretched cord. We collect the protruding solution with a trowel from all sides.

It is more convenient to gain mass from a bucket, and have a brick stock nearby. This saves time and effort. Every 4-5 rows we recommend laying a metal mesh to reinforce the layer. This approach minimizes the possibility of shrinkage cracks.

To lay brick corners after the fifth row, use a metal corner. It is fixed at the outside, and then the corner of the brick is brought from the inside until it touches. This ensures verticality.

Before working in dry weather, bricks are often soaked in water so that they are saturated with moisture.

The soaking process takes about an hour and allows you not to quickly draw moisture out of the solution. The hardening of the seam will take place under normal conditions. If there is no time to wait, then it is enough to pour the material with water from a watering can.

VIDEO: How to remove a corner from a brick

Seam selection

There are several types of seams, which are selected based on possible further work with the wall.

• undercut

The mass of the solution is distributed evenly, occupying the entire space between adjacent levels. A smooth and even surface is provided throughout the area. The technique is in demand in the construction of the inner surface of stoves and fireplaces. The lack of relief on the inner surface does not allow soot to accumulate in the seams. Designers rarely use this type for decoration.

• convex/concave

Used exclusively for decorative purposes. A device made using a short tube cut along the axis with a diameter of 8-12 mm helps to provide such a relief. Depending on which side to use it, we get a U-shaped seam.

• Pustoshovka

The mortar is placed on the site in such a way that it does not protrude beyond the boundaries of the brick, providing a technological gap of small depth. A similar relief is necessary for the surfaces left under the plaster. Clinging to the texture, the finish will hold better.

The required number of bricks is calculated according to the table. It is desirable to harvest 10-12% more for the formation of complex corners and joints.

Before you start laying, you need to lay out the first two rows without mortar in order to determine the size. When building walls, do not use trim or leftovers for window and door openings. And the last thing to remember is that the brick must dry before the solution.

VIDEO: How to lay a brick correctly. How to make perfect seams

Build!ka (Construction). Issue 06: Little Tricks of a Big Brick House

Additional insulation of areas with radiators under the windows with gas silicate blocks. Why use factory stairways and floor slabs when their stairs and floors can be made on site. Why lay a heating pipe in a strobe in a brick wall. Several ways to protect the Mauerlat from moisture at the junction with the brick (protecting the tree from "getting wet with the brick").

We see that vertical studs are already walled up in the brick wall so that the Mauerlat can be screwed to the edge of the wall so that the roof is not blown off by the wind. The thermal conductivity and other thermal properties of gas silicate are very similar to wood: vapor-transparent, ventilated. If you put a tree on a material with similar properties, then it will protect the tree from cold bricks, on it no moisture or condensation, plus he will break the bridge of cold, which inevitably arises from the wall with a tree at the exit to the roof.

If we simply bring a cold wall to the roof, then we will not eliminate the cold bridge, even despite the insulation of the attic between the rafters and under them, several upper rows of bricks will freeze through. Therefore, Kuryshev recommends finish the walls of houses under the roof with light and warm material. Thus, we will eliminate the cold bridge and save the tree from the so-called wetting with a brick. This is a simple and effective technique.

This, it would seem, is not a decisive factor. But when we apply some right decisions in each place of the house, the house as a whole acquires new qualities. It becomes durable, any minor flaws like cold bridges disappear in it.

The sauna stove is an indispensable attribute of the steam room. To prevent the stove from causing a fire, it is important to install it correctly and provide protection for wood structures.

Massive brick ovens weighing more than 700 kg require special foundation equipment. A compact wood-burning stove can be installed directly on a wooden floor, providing a non-combustible base. Step-by-step instructions will help you figure out how to properly complete the whole range of work.

Preparatory stage

When developing a bath project, you should immediately decide which stove will be installed in the steam room. If you do not plan to build a foundation for the stove, you need to strengthen the floor structure.

Please note: the base for the heater is laid out from two layers of bricks, sheet refractory material is also used, cladding with heat-resistant tiles is allowed (instead of the traditional steel sheet). Therefore, when calculating the load on the floor, the weight of the base must be added to the weight of the stove itself. As well as the weight of a full tank of water, if it is installed according to the project.

If the value obtained does not exceed 400 kg, then it is allowed to mount the flooring on logs installed in 600 mm increments, if their dimensions are:

• 75x100x2000 mm;
• 75x200x3000 mm;
• 100x200x4000 mm;
• 150x200x5000 mm;
• 150x250x6000 mm.

If the logs are fastened in increments of 1000 mm, then their recommended dimensions are:

• 75x150x2000 mm;
• 100x175x3000 mm;
• 175x200x4000 mm;
• 150x225x5000 mm;
• 175x250x6000 mm.

If the total weight of the stove with the base and the tank is over 400 kg, it is necessary to increase the cross section of the log or install them with a smaller step. Logs are recommended to be made of glued laminated timber - it is resistant to deformation and moisture, able to withstand increased loads.

If you are going to install a heater in a steam room where the floor is already laid, you need to calculate whether it will withstand the load. If the floor is not strong enough, they remake it or cut a hole and equip a separate foundation for a wood-burning stove.

Choosing a place to install

The stove should be located in such a way that it does not interfere with moving around the steam room, without the risk of accidentally getting burned. Near it, it is required to leave free space for firewood, if the firebox is not taken out of the room. Usually the oven is placed in a corner.

So that the hot steam from the water splashed onto the heater does not burn the rest in the bath, pay attention to the distance from the stove to the shelves. How much space to leave from the stove to the wall depends on the manufacturer's recommendations, while keeping in mind that a refractory "apron" will be mounted on the wall, i.e., the distance must be calculated from it.

A wood-burning stove has a significant drawback - it burns oxygen out of the air, therefore, placing it as standard, with a firebox inside, you will have to take care of ventilation. A ventilation hole is made in the floor so that the heat from the steam room does not go into it.

There is another solution to the problem. In the outer wall or in the partition leading to the dressing room, you can equip a portal so that access to the firebox is outside. For a small steam room, this option will be especially advantageous, since you do not have to leave a place for firewood, besides, the heater will stand close to the wall. Of course, for such a solution, you should choose a stove of a suitable configuration - rectangular, with a protruding firebox.

We equip the base

The installation of the sauna stove is carried out on a prepared base. Manufacturers of metal furnaces in the passport indicate its minimum dimensions. In the absence of data that you can focus on, take measurements of the stove. The length of the steel sheet in front of the furnace door is at least 50 cm, on the other sides of the furnace - about 10 cm. Calculate the size of the site so that it is a multiple of the whole number of bricks on each side.

Marking is applied to the floor of the steam room in the selected place. If the heater door leads outside the steam room to the street, then the base must adjoin the wall. From the side of the street, it is enough to concrete a surface area in front of the firebox or lay tiles. If the portal goes into the dressing room, the base is laid through the opening in the partition.

A hole is cut out under the portal in the wall in such a way that a gap of 30-50 cm remains between the metal of the firebox and the wooden structures.

To install the base you will need:

• refractory board (PKVT 1260, TISK-250, MKRP-340);
• refractory brick (chamotte or solid red);
• masonry mixture for fireplaces and stoves;
• steel sheet or heat-resistant tiles (clinker, porcelain stoneware);
• heat-resistant adhesive for stoves and fireplaces.

The refractory board is cut to size and placed on the floor to protect the wood from the heat. Use self-tapping screws for fastening. Pre-soak the bricks, prepare the solution according to the instructions on the package.

Lay a row of bricks on top of the sheet, along its width, using mortar. In the second row of the lower layer, the extreme bricks are laid end-to-end to the first row, and the rest - with long sides. In the third row, the leftmost brick will lie with its butt to the second upper one and sideways to the protrusion of the first upper brick, etc. This layout will allow you to move the seams, and at the same time you do not have to break the bricks into halves.

Use a spirit level to check if the base is level. Knock bricks protruding beyond the plane with a wooden mallet, add mortar under the failing masonry elements. The second layer of bricks is laid according to the same principle, but the layout should be started from the long side in order to move the seams.

After the solution has set, apply a layer of pre-prepared heat-resistant glue to the cut-to-size steel sheet (knead according to the instructions on the package). Lay on a brick base and check the horizontal level with a level. Lightly tapping the sheet with a mallet, level the plane. Leave until the adhesive has completely cured. Instead of a steel sheet, it is allowed to install a suitable tile on the same adhesive.

Wall protection, portal arrangement

Attention! To prevent the smell of heated paint and other chemical fumes from appearing in the steam room, the sauna stove is kindled in the open air before installation, the equipment is calcined and allowed to cool.

If you decide to put the stove inside the steam room with a firebox, you need to decide how to protect the wall from fire. Allowed:

• lay out a protective apron made of refractory bricks (laying in half a brick on a heat-resistant mortar);
• close the corresponding sections of the wall with sheathing made of stainless steel sheet with a thickness of at least 3 mm, while the distance from the furnace should be from 10 cm;
• mount an apron made of porcelain stoneware or clinker.

When choosing the option of installing a firebox outside, you will have to deal with the portal, for this you will need:

• refractory brick + heat-resistant mortar;
• plate refractory material;
• heat-resistant mastic;
• assembly foam.

An opening in a wall or partition is laid with bricks in such a way that there is a gap between the masonry and the metal of the firebox, which is filled with strips of refractory material and heat-resistant mastic. The seams between the wooden wall and the brick structure are filled with mounting foam.

Chimney

For a metal sauna heater, a pre-installed brick chimney is not required, it is enough to use a metal structure, which is a pipe in a pipe, and a heat insulator is laid between the inner and outer shell.

Such a chimney has a slippery inner surface on which soot does not settle. It is made of acid-resistant stainless steel. This type of chimney is easy to install with your own hands, it is durable and does not require maintenance.

Chimney - "sandwich" is brought out through the ceiling and roof or through the wall. The height of the chimney is calculated based on the distance from the ground to the roof ridge - the edge of the chimney should be higher. This is essential for good traction.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney:

• in the wall or ceiling, make a hole for the pipe;
• treat the wood with fire retardant impregnation;
• install a special cutting pipe for the chimney;
• fix it with self-tapping screws;
• fill the gap between the pipe and the wooden structure with asbestos or basalt fiber, the thermal insulator will protect the wood from fire;
• on the outlet pipe of the furnace, weld a piece of metal thick-walled pipe or fix it to a heat-resistant sealant;
• install a smoke damper on the pipe;
• mount the sandwich chimney, using brackets if necessary;
• on the top of the chimney, a spark arrester, a rain umbrella should be installed.

Installing a metal stove in a bath on a wooden floor is the easiest way to equip a steam room with a small, easy-to-use heater. It is important to follow fire safety rules and not save on fire retardant materials.