Curly laying drywall frame on the wall. How do you install a frame for drywall with your own hands

The appearance of drywall in the construction industry made it possible to move away from activities related to leveling surfaces, which were previously carried out with leveling solutions (plaster and putty). The installation of this material allows you to create a surface with a high evenness index on the wall or ceiling. This, in turn, is a guarantee of high-quality finishing.

Plasterboard sheets allow you to level the plane with any difference in the area to be trimmed. If this difference is small up to 5 cm, then you can use the frameless installation method. If more than 5 cm, then drywall is mounted only on the frame.

Tools and profiles

Currently, this leveling material is mounted on a crate made of metal profiles. The very technology of erecting a new surface is so simple that even it can handle it.

Photo of a curly plasterboard wall with backlight

Much more photo of drywall walls see .

This will require the drywall sheet itself and several profiles: for wall decoration - guide and rack, for the ceiling - guide and ceiling. As well as direct suspensions and self-tapping screws with dowels.

From tools:

• Perforator;
• Screwdriver;
• Planer for removing edges;
• Level;
• Plumb;
• Putty knife.

Tool for mounting metal frames under drywall

Mounting the frame for drywall

Let's consider . To do this, you need to determine the slope of the wall itself. It can be tilted into the room or out. To determine this, it is necessary to attach a suspension to the upper corner of the wall. If an indefinite distance moved away from the lower corner near the floor, then the wall is tilted inward. If it lies tightly on the surface of the wall, then you will have to shift the installation site of the plumb line slightly towards yourself, that is, combine the sinker with the lower corner.

In the first case, it will be necessary to make marks on the ceiling right next to the wall in each opposite corner horizontally. Connect them with a line on which the guide profile is installed. Then, using a plumb line on the floor, determine two points at the corners, connect them together and fix the guide profile on the floor.

In order to install the profiles simply, you need to cut them to the size of the length of the wall, make holes in them, install along the line and mark the fasteners through the holes. Then, holes are made in the floor or ceiling with a puncher, where plastic dowels are hammered. It is to them that the upper and lower profiles are attached with self-tapping screws.

In the event that the length of the room is greater than the length of the profile (3 m), then they will have to be increased. There is nothing difficult in this. Two connected elements are inserted into each other with ends and attached with a self-tapping screw. More often they refuse it, because the fastening is done along one line.

The standard distance between the centers of the guides is 60 cm

The next step is the installation of rack profiles. Two outer elements can be installed at once, fastening to adjacent walls and to the upper and lower rails. To install intermediate elements, you will have to put vertical lines on the wall, which will determine the place of their installation. The standard distance between them is 60 cm, because the width of the drywall sheet is 120 cm. That is, three profiles must be installed under each sheet, one of which is in the middle.

On the lines drawn, every 50-60 cm, direct suspensions are installed, which are attached to the surface with self-tapping screws. To do this, you will need a puncher and a screwdriver. To make sure that the intermediate elements will be in the same plane, it is necessary to pull a strong thread in several rows between the two extreme rack profiles. It is on it and carry out the alignment.

Option to reinforce the frame under drywall with a wooden bar

After the intermediate profiles are installed, you can install several crossbars every 30-40-50-60 cm. The step is chosen at your discretion, a lot will depend on the height of the ceiling in the room. The higher the ceiling, the slower the step. The crossbars will strengthen the frame, make it rigid.

Drywall fixing

So, the crate is ready, you can proceed to the installation of drywall. Before installing each sheet, it is necessary to process its edges with a special planer in order to create a small groove when joining. It will have to be sealed with putty.

We lift the sheet, install it to the crate so that it lies on three vertical profiles. In this case, the edge of the panel should lie in the middle of the frame element. That is, two sheets must be joined at once on one profile. This does not apply to the corner element, which completely covers the sheet.

Drywall is fastened with self-tapping screws, here it is necessary to maintain certain dimensions.

• The distance from the edge of the panel to the attachment point is 10-15 mm.
• The distance between fasteners is 100-150 mm.
• Cap screwing depth up to 5 mm.

Puttying the joints of plasterboard sheets

After all the sheets are laid and fixed, it is necessary to seal the joints. For this, a putty mortar is used, with which the seam is filled. Then a special tape is immediately applied to it, which is covered with a layer of putty on top. This will require a spatula. Please note that the places where drywall is attached to the frame are also sealed with mortar.

The nuances of building a frame on the ceiling

First of all, you need to determine the lowest corner in the room. To do this, the height of all corners is measured, the smallest size is what you need. It is here that a laser level is set at a certain height, which determines the location of the new ceiling. Its light beams on the walls will outline the outline. They will have to install guide profiles to the walls.

It is usually carried out along the room, therefore, across the room from one of the walls, we set aside dimensions in increments of 60 cm. We draw lines along them for installing suspensions. The latter are installed in increments of 40-50 cm. Several rows of threads are pulled between two longitudinal guides, and the intermediate elements of the crate will have to be aligned along them.

Reinforced frame for plasterboard ceiling

The profiles are installed with their ends in the groove of the guides, they are aligned along the threads and fastened to the hangers. After that, the frame will need to be reinforced with crossbars, as is the case with the wall.

Drywall finishing

If the plasterboard wall needs to be painted or wallpapered on it, then finishing work cannot be carried out in this form. Drywall will need to be trimmed. To do this, its surface is needed additionally. This material has a fine-grained structure, and if you apply it in a thin layer and finish it with sandpaper, then the plane will be even.

Scheme for this type of work:

• The plasterboard surface is treated with a primer. You need to let the surface dry. This usually takes 4-6 hours. This must be done in order for the cardboard to become the owner of a surface with a high degree of adhesion.
• Next, a layer of putty is applied, which must also be dried.
• If the degree of evenness does not suit you, then you will have to apply another layer. But before that, the first must be treated with a primer.
• Now with fine-grained sandpaper it is necessary to process the puttied surface. For this, a trowel is used, on which sandpaper is attached. With circular unhurried movements, without effort and pressure, you need to walk over the entire treated area.
• After that, a layer of primer is applied to the drywall.
• Once it dries, you can paint or wallpaper.

With the help of drywall, you can create unique designs, align walls or mount a false ceiling. Most of the above types of work require the arrangement of a special crate. But, how to make a frame for drywall? We will talk about this now.

The frame is an important component of the drywall construction, on which the strength and durability of the GKL fasteners generally depend.

metal or wood

Before you make a frame for drywall, decide on the material. Today, metal and wood are used.

Modern steel profiles are much more popular than wooden structures, and the point here is far from the price. The metal profile is easy to work with, stronger and more durable.

If you decide to use a tree, give preference to conifers.

Wooden crates are usually used in exceptionally dry and warm rooms in which there is no sharp temperature drop. Do not forget about the special processing of wood, which will protect the timber from rotting, mold and fungi. Unfortunately, wood is not as durable as a metal profile, but despite this it is an environmentally friendly and high-quality material.

Instruments

Before making a frame for drywall, prepare the necessary set of tools:

So, you will need:

• Scissors for metal (hacksaw for metal). Due to the fact that you will have to cut or saw a profile, you simply cannot do without a cutting tool.
• Screwdriver.
• Building level and pencil.
• Perforator (required for mounting to a concrete base).

For a wooden crate you need:

• jigsaw or saw;
• nails;
• hammer;
• building level;
• perforator.

Types of metal profile

The answer to the question of how to properly make a frame for drywall from a metal profile would be incomplete without considering the types of profiles for the crate.

• PS (CW) - designed for vertical partition walls. The PS-profile has one remarkable feature - holes are made along its entire length, which greatly facilitate the laying of engineering communications. PS-profiles are produced with different section sizes: 50x50, 75x50 and 100x50 mm.
• PN (UW) - guide profile for PS, has several options for sections: 50x40, 75x40 and 100x40 mm.

Before you make a frame for drywall on the wall, stock up on fasteners:

• dowels;
• brackets;
• suspensions;
• self-tapping screws and screws;
• anchors.

We collect the crate

Before you make a frame for a drywall wall, mark up.

markup

Do-it-yourself marking instructions:

1. Stepping back from the wall 5-6 cm (usually the amount of indentation is taken from the thickness of the insulation that will be laid in the crate), draw a line parallel to the surface. This line will indicate the thickness of the entire wall, including the thickness of the plasterboard, so be careful.

1. From the drawn line, step back a distance equal to the thickness of the GKL - this will be the edge of your base.
2. Using a plumb line, transfer the markup to the ceiling.

Attention!
A wooden crate from a bar is assembled according to the same principle as the basis for a gypsum board from a metal profile.

Remember that incorrectly applied markings can lead to fatal consequences. At best, you have to disassemble the structure and redo the frame.

Mounting

After marking, the assembly of the crate begins.

1. Fasten the guide profile. To do this, you need to take the guide rails and attach them along the line, first to the floor, then to the ceiling. This is done using dowels with a step of no more than 60 cm.

1. Hangers. After installing the guide, attach suspensions over the entire working surface, which will later be needed for mounting the rack rails.

1. Mounting racks. To do this, you need rack rails that are mounted perpendicular to the guide profile. For greater stability, we fix them with pre-prepared suspensions.

Advice!
If you want to strengthen the wall, you can run studs perpendicular to the studs, 2-3 strips will be enough.

The work of creating a frame from a metal profile for drywall is perceived by many as a very simple event that does not require certain rules to be followed. Because of this, situations are obtained in which the surface created from the GKL plates turns out to be with numerous shortcomings, to eliminate which a lot of effort and financial costs have to be applied.

Of course, the work itself is not that difficult. Literally everyone can cope, but there are some nuances that must be taken into account. And also correctly carry out the installation steps.

There are two main materials for the construction of the crate - a wooden beam and a metal profile. It is the second type of material that is most preferred.

The metal profile is such due to certain characteristics:

• For the most part (with proper storage and transportation) - it does not have any drawbacks (curvature). But, if you choose a bar, you will have to sort out a lot of material.
• Metal elements can be used in almost any room, and do not pay attention to temperature fluctuations. This means that the surface will not be deformed.
• Galvanized parts can last a very long time. Therefore, they can be used even in rooms with a lot of moisture. Also, they are not affected by fungi and rot.
• For fastening the profile, there are various elements that allow you to create a reliable and strong structure.

Material selection

It is worth paying attention to the choice of the necessary materials, especially when choosing the details of the crate. There are the following types of profile that allow you to create a frame for plasterboard walls:

1. Guide (PN). This element is designed to create a structure that will serve to secure the rack profile. It is from the fixing of this type of profile that it will depend on how the surface will look in the future.
2. Rack (PS). It is used to create crates or other partitions. It can be given various curvilinear options.

A separate place is occupied by details for ceiling structures: ceiling profile (PP), ceiling guide profile (PNP).

You should also consider using the following additional elements:

• Corner profile (PU). Maybe external and internal.
• Arched profile (PA). Used to create arches.
• Suspension (U-shaped). It is used for fastening the structure to walls and ceilings.
• Connector ("Crab"). It is very convenient for fastening together perpendicular parts.
• Extension. Connects different segments of the profile.
• Dowel and self-tapping screws (for metal).

It is at this stage that many people make a very important mistake. It lies in the fact that they acquire a non-specialized profile. Namely, they confuse ceiling elements with wall elements.

Required tool

Naturally, fastening a metal frame under drywall is simply impossible without the use of special tools. But do not worry, every home master will always have everything you need.

What will be required:

1. Jigsaw with metal files or scissors for cutting galvanized steel.
   

   Attention! It is immediately worth noting that you can not use the grinder. The reason is pretty simple. The torque of such a tool is very high, and the galvanized profile is quite thin. Because of this, there is a rapid heating of the cut material and its deformation. And also the destruction of the protective layer and the appearance of rust will follow.

2. Plumb and level (or more modern electronic devices). Only the use of these devices allows you to create an even frame from a metal profile.
3. Ruler, tape measure and pencil (marker).
4. Drills or puncher to create holes in the walls. Their choice depends on the surface material. And also do not forget about drills or drills.
5. A set of screwdrivers, or better a screwdriver. With the necessary skills, you can also use a drill (setting the desired power).

Installation work

Everything that needs to be prepared, the tool is waiting in the wings. It seems that work can already begin. After all, the sooner you start, the sooner it will end, but you should not rush. First you need to decide what activities will be carried out. The installation of the frame has features for different types of work.

The installation of a frame for creating partitions from plasterboard has significant differences from the installation of a crate for plasterboard walls

Walls

In principle, working with walls is considered the easiest. It is with her that it is best to start, if this does not contradict the stages of repair work.

Advice! To avoid unpleasant (rattling) noise that may occur after the installation of a metal crate, a sealing tape is glued between the surface and the guides.

Getting Started:

Suspensions have a feature to go beyond the profile. That is, protruding "ears" are formed. They need to be bent. This should be done inward so as not to interfere with the installation of GCR boards.

If it is required to give the frame for drywall additional rigidity, then horizontal screeds are used for this. They are easy to make from the profile itself, which is cut into the desired size (with a small margin). Pay attention to their fastening.

They often do this:

1. Scissors for metal cut the ends of the profile along the ribs.
2. The ribs are bent. Through them, the screeds are screwed to the racks. The central section - remains without a self-tapping screw, otherwise a hillock will turn out.

Partitions

These structures are created to separate the premises, as well as to completely separate one from the other. In principle, the scheme of work is similar to the one presented above, but there are some technical features.

Features of creating door and window openings

A frame made of a metal profile for drywall often needs to create various openings in it. Doors are handled as follows:

• The door frame is being assembled. In which, previously, the door leaf is hung. To set the necessary gaps (after all, the box is not fixed) - insert wedges from fiberboard or hardboard.
• Now they begin to expose racks that are adjacent to the doorway. They are placed vertically and reinforced with wooden beams. Mounting foam is applied and the box is attracted with self-tapping screws.

On a note! The described method is quite laborious, it is more suitable for cases where the doorway was not provided in advance. Therefore, it is better to spend time on preliminary calculations and markings, as well as determine the size of the door leaf. Then you can immediately create a doorway (with the necessary margin) and quickly install a door into it.

When creating a light window, there are such features:

1. It is necessary to install two horizontal jumpers (top and bottom).
2. Vertical racks are best done with wooden mortgages.

Measures to strengthen the frame and increase sound insulation

It should be noted that a simple crate does not have sufficient rigidity. Therefore, if necessary, then you need to give it reinforcement. This is usually necessary in rooms where furniture will be placed on the walls.

The easiest ways:

• Instead of SP and NP, 50 mm each, they take 75 or 100 mm.
• Reduce the step between the racks.
• Vertical elements are installed in pairs.
• Mortgages in the form of a wooden bar are used.

On a note! If possible, then a completely different option is used. Namely - drywall on the frame is laid in two layers. In this case, overlap the seams of the first layer.

Also pay attention to soundproofing. The fact is that the hollow frame gives a significant sound effect.

1. Mineral wool is laid in the frame. Therefore, they are immediately determined with a step of vertical racks and jumpers.
2. When creating partitions, a double-sided frame is made. Then each GKL slab is attached to its side of the crate.

Any work requires care, even if it seems that making a frame for drywall is very simple.

The construction market offers a lot of materials for renovation, but it is difficult to compete with drywall, which allows you to realize any design idea. It not only perfectly levels any surface, but also saves space. After all, a metal frame based on a special profile does not take up much space, does not lend itself to corrosion, withstands significant loads, and is not damaged by insects. Partitions and ceilings, niches and arches will last a long time if the installation of the frame for sheathing it with drywall is done correctly.

The frame is mounted using several types of profile:

• Guide profile ud determines the plane of the future design. It is used not only to connect the product with the base, but also to combine several planes of the product being created.
• Carrier profile cd withstands the weight of the finished surface, since drywall is fixed on it.
• Partition profiles uw and cw differ from the previous types only in size, as they are used to create plasterboard partitions. They produce uw and cw in different widths: 50 mm, 75 mm, 100 mm, 125 mm and 150 mm.
• Profile connectors There are 3 types: straight cd, cruciform cd ("crab") and two-level cd. The first type is used to extend the carrier profile, the second - for cruciform connections and the third connects the carrier profiles in different planes.
• U-bracket Designed specifically for fixing to the ceiling or walls of a load-bearing profile.
• quick suspension used in the creation of ceiling molds. It consists of a spoke with a loop that secures it to the ceiling and a spring latch that slides over the spoke. The device allows you to quickly level the frame. Among the disadvantages is the inability to use at a short distance from the ceiling to the floor slabs.

The drywall profile is not the only component of the future frame.

In addition to the listed profiles, the installation of a metal frame requires fasteners:

• self-tapping texes Ø 3.5 mm and 9.5 mm long, connecting the profiles;
• self-tapping screws for metal Ø 3.5 mm and a length of 25 mm, fixing drywall;
• dowels Ø 6 mm for mounting profiles and other fasteners on walls and floor slabs.

Ceiling frame manufacturing technology

The frame for the ceiling structure has the form of a grid, which is formed by cd load-bearing profiles, fixed on the walls with ud guides and on the ceiling with U-shaped brackets or a quick hanger.

The installation of the grid in one parallel is carried out with profiles with a pitch of 400 mm, and perpendicularly - every 2.5 m.

The ceiling, sheathed with plasterboard, will hide the lamps or LED strip installed in any order.

The jumpers used to connect the sheets to each other are installed using the cd crab connector.

The frame is fixed to the ceilings with suspensions or U-shaped brackets, which must be installed at intervals of 500 mm under each supporting profile.

At each stage, the frame for attaching drywall sheets must be controlled by a level - hydraulic or laser. The guide profiles are checked by level, and the carrier profiles are checked by a stretched thread. You can fix the line with a pencil or beat off with a cord.

Installation of a frame for plasterboard for wall cladding

Compared with the technology for manufacturing a ceiling frame, it is easier to make a base for a plasterboard wall. Vertical bearing profiles are installed in 600 mm increments in the center. Two are placed along the edges of the drywall sheet and the third in the middle.

The plane of the wall is correctly formed in this way: at the first stage, the installation of the guide profile is carried out on the floor, then - with the help of a level - on the walls and at the last step - on the ceiling.

In the space between the walls and drywall, insulation, sound-absorbing material, and a cassette air conditioner can be laid.

On the walls, the supporting profile is fixed with U-shaped brackets, located in increments of 600 mm. When sheathing a wall, one wall is first trimmed (from profile installation to drywall installation) and only then the frame is mounted on the next wall.

Installation of a frame for walls and partitions (video)

Installation of a frame for partitions

The installation of a frame for a plasterboard partition has its own distinctive features, the main of which is the absence of fasteners on the walls: the base is wedged between the ceiling and the floor. Just like in the previous versions of the frame, the surface of the partition is formed by uw guide profiles, fixed on the walls, on the ceiling, on the floor.

On their basis, vertical bearing profiles cw are fixed with an interval of 400 mm. It is impossible to save on profile options: if you install racks with an arbitrary step, the partition will be unstable and short-lived.

If a doorway is planned in the partition, its installation should be under special control. A wooden beam is inserted into the profiles, which are fixed along the perimeter of the opening. It will help to securely fix and hold the door of any size.

Building a frame for a niche or other three-dimensional structure

Mounting a frame for an arch or niche is a relatively difficult job that requires experience and imagination. The volumetric frame is mounted according to the box principle.

From the following video you will learn how to make a drywall niche rack:

Subtleties to consider:

• All angles(including indirect ones) are assembled from twisted guide profiles. They can be trimmed for rounding. The corner profile is wedged with jumpers between two adjacent walls.
• slots two vertically arranged ud guides are formed, connected to each other by jumpers that limit the opening horizontally. If done differently, the frame will not be stable.
• Mounting the frame for shelves: the base of the ud-profile is installed around the perimeter, then it is reinforced with load-bearing profiles.

Niches and alcoves can be originally illuminated by hiding pipes, wiring or ventilation under drywall sheets.

When assembling a three-dimensional frame for drywall, you have to combine different methods that are described in the article. One fragment can be assembled according to the same principle as the installation of the ceiling, the other - as a partition, the third - according to the principle of wall cladding, and the fourth can be generally combined. There are no uniform standards here - including engineering ingenuity, it is important to consider that any frame, first of all, must be rigid and stable in order to freely withstand the expected load and please the eye with an original interior.

• If the repair includes finishing the walls and ceiling, first the frame must be mounted on the ceiling. Ideal right angles on the ceiling are not common, if you start installing profiles from the walls, it will be difficult to fit drywall sheets.
• When marking the surface to set the profile, the reference point is the lowest angle or elevation of the base ceiling. In the presence of windows, the marking of the walls begins with these sections, since the slopes require special attention.
• If suspensions are not enough, they are easy to make yourself. To do this, you can take a piece of ordinary PP profile. After specifying the length of the suspension with scissors for metal, a part of the profile of the desired length is cut off.
• If the repair involves wall insulation, the distance between the wall and drywall should take into account the thickness of the insulation.
• When planning the installation of a chandelier, heavy paintings, brackets for some devices, even at the stage of mounting the profile, the frame in these areas is reinforced.
• All communications in the house are laid only when the assembly of the frame from the profile is completed. The stock of wire for electrical work is 10-15 cm from the new ceiling. When installing spotlights, carefully plan the laying of metal elements.
• From a drywall profile, you can make a frame for a greenhouse, and the cost of such a design will be several times cheaper than analogues without a choice between price and quality.

If you understand the principle of mounting a metal profile and first prepare a simple structure for plasterboard sheets for a wall, then in the future you can take on more complex projects in the form of a multi-level ceiling, arched openings, decorative niches.

Drywall is an amazing material. With its help, the alignment of the surfaces of the walls, the installation of new interior partitions or the installation of suspended ceilings are carried out.

Drywall for mounting partitions

Typically, such work implies that the installation of drywall sheets will be carried out on a frame made of a metal profile. For the installation of drywall structures, you can still use a frame that is made of wood.

Frames are the supporting basis for any drywall constructions. Making it yourself is not very difficult. The quality of the frame primarily depends on the quality of the material from which it is made.

Installation of a frame for a plasterboard ceiling

Metal or still wood?

Bearing frames for mounting systems made of drywall sheets are of two types, depending on the material used:

• metal (during installation, a galvanized steel profile of a special configuration is used);
• wooden (that is, the installation is carried out with bars and planks, usually from softwood).

The wooden frame has a significant drawback - it will need special treatment with various wood solutions.

It is absolutely easy to work with modern metal profiles. Their installation does not require any special knowledge. With such work it is easy to handle a person who has never before been related to the installation of drywall. Choosing a metal profile for the frame, you are guaranteed to create a sufficiently durable and very reliable ceiling structure.

The wooden system of frame profiles will be a good option for a room with a dry and moderately warm microclimate, where there are no significant temperature changes. But such a building material must be processed in a special way using various solutions, and besides, it is not as durable as metal.

Ceiling Frame System Mounting Tools

Given the selected frame option, the set of necessary tools will be divided into two groups.

For metal frame:

• scissors for cutting metal (you can use a grinder or a hacksaw for metal);
• screwdriver or electric screwdriver with a set of nozzles;
• perforator with a drill. If necessary, fasten to concrete or brick walls;
• building levels of different lengths;
• drywall screws and metal screws.

Tools needed to install drywall frame

For a wooden frame:

• nails of various sizes;
• jigsaw or hacksaw;
• hammer;
• building level;
• perforator with a drill.

Types of profiles to be used for steel framing

Rack profiles

They are used in the manufacture of the frame during the installation of a plasterboard ceiling. On its surface there are three grooves for the convenience of precise centering of screws and ceiling suspensions; are metal strips in the section having the shape of the letter "C".

Guide profiles

Used to attach the ceiling frame to the wall. There is a groove in the middle, which is designed to reinforce the profile and for the convenience of centering self-tapping screws and screws when mounting such frame structures. They are usually made of galvanized metal, which has corrugated walls for structural rigidity. They are metal strips in the section having the shape of the letter "U".

For the correct installation of the frame structure, the dimensions of the guides and ceiling profiles must match.

For high-quality manufacturing of the frame structure, you will need some additional materials and elements:

• brackets;
• ceiling suspensions with rods;
• anchor;
• dowel - nails.

Guide profile for plasterboard ceiling frame

Step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on a wall

Let us dwell on the intricacies of making a frame for mounting drywall sheets to level the walls. This requires the presence of metal profiles (rack-mount and rails), the above fasteners, as well as a set of tools. In order for the installation to take place at the appropriate level, prepare everything necessary for this in advance.

Stage 1. Markup.

To get started, you need to correctly mark the base surfaces. If there are irregularities on the walls, they do not need to be removed, but simply need to be taken into account when marking. It is necessary to make a certain indent from the wall surface, i.e. it is necessary to draw a marking line parallel to the one that defines the boundary of the placement of the entire frame structure, consisting in depth of the thickness of the drywall sheet, the thickness of the guide profiles and the space from the wall to the profiles, which is designed to accommodate insulation and communication systems. When marking, be sure to take into account the unevenness of the walls, in order to avoid squeezing them.

Installation of drywall on the wall

Counting from this mark, you need to retreat to the wall a gap that is equal to the thickness of the drywall sheet, and draw a marking line. Thus, the location of the border of the frame is marked. These markings are moved to the surface of the ceiling. What can be done with a simple plumb line or a laser plane builder.

If a wooden frame is planned, although its installation involves some nuances, its assembly in this case takes place in almost the same way, and the markup is performed in exactly the same way.

Mistakes that may result from incorrect marking will result in uneven, or, in general, curved walls, completely regardless of the quality of the installation of the profile.

Stage 2. Installation of the frame.

First you need to install the profile guides, i.e. fix the profile to the floor surface, and then fix it to the ceiling. To do this, we apply the profile bar to the marked marking line, level it, and only then attach it to the floor and the base ceiling using dowel-nails and self-tapping screws. The step between the placement of fasteners, necessary for reliable fastening, should not exceed 1 m.

Then the installation of direct ceiling hangers is carried out, which will fix the position of the rack profiles. But first you need to find out the position of the racks.

To do this, take the width of the sheet of drywall used. The required step between the location of the centers of the racks should be exactly this indicator. Hangers are fastened to the wall surface using dowels. If it is necessary to install intermediate racks, the step between them is not more than 1 m.

The leveling of the installation of the structure must be controlled using a plumb line or a long level.

Stage 3. Installation of vertical profile guides (racks).

To install the racks, they must be inserted into the cavities of the horizontal guide profiles at the bottom and top. Checking the installation by level, as well as, in fact, the structure itself, must be controlled using a plumb line or a long level. Further, the racks are fixed with self-tapping screws to the guide profiles and only after that it is securely attached to the suspensions.

Stage 4. Installation of cross jumpers.

Additional reinforcement can be added to the metal frame - to make jumpers from scraps of the rack profile. You can cut the profile to the desired size using a grinder or metal scissors, and installation is done with self-tapping screws. This is also the case with wood, but with the use of a hacksaw and simple nails.

Installation instructions for a frame interior partition

Stage 1. Markup.

Marking is applied to the main surface: the boundaries of the frame and the partition itself are marked. If the project provides for the presence of doors, designate them.

We install guide profiles. As a rule, their length is 3 m, if necessary, cut them and then attach them to the floor and ceiling. In places where the markings of the door opening are applied, the corners are simply bent. The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Stage 3. Installation of rack profiles.

Rack profiles are mounted in the same way as guides. Their presence is mandatory in the future doorway.

Stage 4. Checking the verticality.

Check for verticality with a level or plumb line and secure the racks using self-tapping screws or a special cutter. The recommended step between the racks to be placed (except for those located in the doorway) should be about 60 cm.

Stage 5. Installation of cross jumpers.

We insert the transverse jumpers made of the rack profile into the vertical rack and guide profile, after which we fasten them. The structure is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Installation instructions for a frame for a false ceiling made of sheet plasterboard

With the use of sheet gypsum board, suspended ceiling structures are also created, which perfectly hide the presence of communication systems on the ceiling surface, electrical wiring or uneven surfaces of the main ceiling. However, in this case, you will need to mount a frame made of metal profiles.

Stage 1. Markup.

First you need to markup. Outline the boundary of the planned false ceiling on the surface, that is, use the level to draw a marking line on the walls. Next, you need to outline the location of the suspensions (as described on the example of the wall frame device).

Stage 2. Installation of guide profiles.

With the help of dowel-nails, the guide profiles of the structure are installed along the general perimeter of the room (along the drawn line for mounting the frame).

Stage 3. Installation of ceiling hangers.

Ceiling hangers are mounted along the marked lines on the ceiling. These fasteners regulate the level of the frame and fasten it to the ceiling. Note that the distance from one suspension to another should be approximately 60 cm. They are attached to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.

Stage 4. Mounting the rack profile.

The rack profile is cut to the required length, and then inserted into the guide profiles and fixed with self-tapping screws, and then mounted to the hangers.

Stage 5. Installation of transverse profiles.

A cross profile bar is inserted into the rack. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the fact that the plasterboard sheet will be attached to the carrier profile with its long sides, but short to the transverse one, and therefore a convenient distance between the location of the transverse profiles should be 40 cm or 60 cm. The profile is fixed with self-tapping screws.

Stage 6. Installation control.

Using a thread stretched from one wall to the opposite, we align the horizontal plane with ceiling hangers, bending their ends when the required level is reached.

Installation of a drywall arch