How can you glue food ceramics. What glue is suitable for gluing porcelain

Every home has a product made of ceramics or porcelain. How often does it happen that dishes break. It can be a crystal glass, a porcelain cup, a ceramic plate, or an ordinary ceramic figurine. And, despite the fact that ceramic dishes are strong, they still beat. If expensive dishes were broken, then after repair, the bonding points should be treated with special dyes, or some experts advise using liquid glass. After drying, carefully cut off the remains, so as not to hurt the part where the repair was made.

The better to glue ceramics and porcelain

I want to extend the life of ceramics. It is not only used for its intended purpose, but also decorates the interior with its originality and originality. What better ceramics or porcelain in terms of quality and durability - it's hard to say, it all depends on various factors.

How to glue porcelain and ceramics? What glue for porcelain and ceramics to choose? Or maybe throw away a broken product? broken vase throw away or not? If not, how to glue a ceramic vase?

Don't rush to throw it away. You can always throw it away. First you need to try to glue the product, and if nothing happens, then you can throw it away. Throwing away is the last thing left to do.

How to glue ceramics

Various adhesives are used to repair ceramics. On the market they offer a huge variety of tools for repairing ceramic dishes.

Cyanocryalate-based universal super glue is the optimal adhesive for ceramics, which can be easily found in any specialty store.

The following Russian-made adhesives for the repair of ceramic dishes are on sale - Sekunda, Super Moment, Cyanopan, Glue, Strength, Monolith, Elephant. There are also imported adhesives for gluing. The best waterproof adhesive for ceramics is MARS.

For ceramics that are used to store food, PVA glue can be used for gluing. But, it is recommended that after gluing the ceramic cup be covered with a layer of varnish. Epoxy glue, adhesives F-2 and BF-4 can be used for gluing ceramic products.

How to glue porcelain

The following range of porcelain adhesives is offered for sale - STANGE, "cosmofen ca-12", you can also use RAPID. Among Russian-made adhesives, carbinol adhesive should be noted. Also, instead of glue for porcelain repair, you can use epoxy resin EPOXY GLUE produced by BONDO, BIZON or similar glues.

For gluing porcelain, you can use cement made on the basis of gypsum. To do this, add the protein of 1 egg to the gypsum powder and mix very well. The resulting glue can be used to glue porcelain. Moreover, the gluing procedure should be carried out very quickly, because this glue hardens quickly.

For gluing, you can make other glue at home. To do this, mix 1 protein and soda. Beat belov into foam, without adding soda. For one day, the whipped protein should settle, and only then add soda to the settled protein and mix. Soda should be added so much that a mass would be obtained in consistency similar to a regular dough.

For this you should:

1. Take 1 liter of water. Add to water 100 gr. Sugar, 100 gr. lime (necessarily slaked). Put the resulting mixture on fire and believe on low heat for about 3-3.5 hours. The main thing when "cooking" is that it does not boil.
2. Cool the resulting broth and let stand for a few more hours.
3. The water that remains after settling must be drained.
4. Add 0.5 kg to the mixture. tile adhesive. Mix well and leave again for 10-15 hours to settle.
5. If there is excess water, then it must be drained. Boil the resulting mass 1 more time.
6. Cool down. Porcelain glue is ready.

This glue for food utensils is perfect.

Universal adhesives for both materials

There are a huge number universal adhesives. These are adhesives that can be used to glue both porcelain and ceramics - casein glue, epoxy adhesives. The most popular is Porcelan Potch glue. Food grade glue is very often suitable for gluing both ceramics and porcelain. For example, the recipe described above can be used as an adhesive for ceramics and porcelain.

How to glue porcelain

Gluing porcelain at home with glue is quite simple; for this, you can use food-grade porcelain glue. If you use one of the following adhesives for gluing - Rapid, AGO, Kittyfix and Mekol, then follow these steps:

• Surfaces to be bonded should be washed and dried;
• Wipe with acetone;
• Apply glue to the gluing points in one layer and immediately glue the parts, pressing firmly.
• It can be fastened with a tourniquet for strength.

Cups break very often. And I want to give a second life to my favorite cup. The following shows how to glue a porcelain cup. Since the gluing algorithm is similar to the previous algorithm, but there are some differences:

1. For gluing, the masters advise taking super glue.
2. Prepare surfaces for bonding - wash, dry and wipe with acetone. If the part is broken in the same place, remove the remaining glue.
3. Gather details ahead of time.
4. The glue application process is the same. Glued in two layers.
5. Then the glued product should be placed if they are not big size must be placed in a saucepan or cauldron, pour warm water and put on fire. Boil water on low heat for 2-3 hours. The product is placed to cool in water. And only then, when the water has cooled, they extract it.
6. If it is not possible to “boil the product”, then it can be “warmed up” in the oven, or held over an electric stove (but in this case, the “warming up” procedure must be performed very carefully so as not to overheat the product and not burn yourself).

It may happen that a crack has formed in a vase or a cup, or a fragment has flown off, and a small hole has broken off.

Then the gluing algorithm is as follows:

1. Preparation for gluing is the same.
2. First you need to cut out a patch, the size of which should be 0.5 - 1.5 cm larger. You can take super-glue for ceramics, natural glue for gluing the patch is also suitable.
3. Be sure to take waterproof for repairs.
4. Pour water into the product, but start the patch, but so that the water does not come into contact with the patch.
5. Then boil water for 2-3 hours.
6. Cool everything down. And pour out the water.
7. If necessary, treat the bonding area with paint.

Porcelain figurines are repaired in the same way. But after the figurine has dried, it is recommended to cover it with several layers of varnish for greater durability. Each next layer of varnish can be applied only when the previous layer of varnish has already dried well. After varnishing, the figurine will be a little heavier and not be as fragile.

How to glue ceramics

Gluing ceramics at home is quite simple. You just need to follow the following rules:

1. We start by assembling all the parts that need to be glued together. If you need to glue a previously repaired cup or vase, then remove the remaining glue with a knife. And when everything is removed from the surface, you can proceed to the next step.
2. Wash all assembled parts thoroughly in warm water. For washing, you can use dishwashing detergent. Then rinse and put to drain. Wiping is not recommended, so as not to cut yourself with sharp edges or break something from the edges of the part.
3. We hide all the details before gluing, in order to know in advance what to glue where.
4. We process the places of gluing with acetone.
5. Apply evenly to gluing areas. thin layer glue. To apply the glue, you can use either a thin brush or an ear cleaning stick.
6. Leave the first coat of glue to dry.
7. Then apply a second layer of glue. And press the parts that need to be glued. Let's keep the details for a few minutes. Then wipe off the residue with a rag.
8. It is advisable to glue another part after a while so that the previous parts stick well.
9. After the product is glued, it is desirable to fix it. And in this way everything will grab not only correctly, but also well.
10. A part is well considered repaired if it has stood for 1-3 days (depending on the repair performed).

Since broken parts are still glass, it is recommended to wear rubber gloves when repairing in order to protect your hands from minor cuts and wounds in advance.

When gluing, if necessary, you can and should use tweezers, for example, to work with small parts.

Repair of porcelain and ceramics is very easy to perform according to the algorithm described above.

Do not forget that all repaired products are no longer desirable to use for food. Because, if, by placing sour or salty food in such a product, they begin to stand out harmful substances contained in the adhesive. And this is very unhealthy.

As a result, you know how to glue ceramics, how to glue ceramic dishes and how to glue porcelain. Which glue to choose or make your own glue.

1. PVA glue (polyvinyl acetate) glues wood, cardboard, glass, leather, fabric. The adhesive is applied in a thin layer on degreased surfaces, joined and compressed. "Seizes" the glue in 20 minutes. and completely dry in 24 hours. Before drying, the adhesive seam can be easily cleaned with a damp cloth.

2. Glue universal "Moment-1". glues wood, metal, rigid PVC, leather, rubber, felt, decorative laminate, glass, ceramics. The glue is toxic and flammable, so it is necessary to work with it in a well-ventilated area or in the open air - away from open flames. Apply glue in a thin layer on both surfaces to be glued (dry, cleaned and degreased), hold for 15 - 20 minutes until the glue dries to "stick" (i.e. until the glue stops sticking to the attached clean finger), and compress them for a few seconds.
When bonding surfaces large area from a flexible material, such as thin rubber and plastic, it is quite difficult to combine surfaces, since gluing occurs instantly and if it is applied incorrectly, it is almost impossible to change anything. Alignment is facilitated by placing a blank sheet of paper between the surfaces to be glued. Gradually pushing the paper, combine the surfaces and compress them (roll). Apply glue to large surfaces conveniently with a metal spatula.

3. Epoxy glue is designed for bonding metal, ceramics, glass, wood and other materials, for sealing holes and cracks, and can also be used as varnish coating. The adhesive is water and oil resistant and a good electrical insulator.
The prepared glue, as well as its components, irritate the skin. Adhesive that comes into contact with the skin should be washed off immediately with warm water and soap. Glue cannot be used to repair food utensils.
The adhesive is prepared immediately before use by mixing the resin with the hardener in the ratio indicated in the instructions (often 10:1). The components are thoroughly mixed for 5 - 10 minutes. The surfaces to be glued are covered with a thin layer of glue and connected with a slight pressure. Excess glue is removed, and this can be done immediately or after 4-5 hours, when the partial polymerization of the glue has already begun and the excess glue is easily removed with a knife or other suitable tool. Complete curing at room temperature comes during the day. At lower temperatures, the curing time increases significantly. The strength of the adhesive bond can be increased by heating the parts to be bonded at a temperature of about 100 ºС for several hours of adhesive curing. Strength significantly depends on the accuracy of compliance with the ratio of mixed components specified in the instructions. Resin for epoxy adhesive entering the trade, as a rule, already contains a plasticizer in its composition, which provides the necessary elasticity of the adhesive joint. If you prepare the adhesive on your own, it is necessary to introduce up to 10% of the plasticizer into the resin before introducing the hardener and mix thoroughly. The most commonly used plasticizer is dibutyl phthalate. The hardener is polyethylenepolyamine.

4. Adhesives BF-2 and BF-4 stick together metals, plastics, wood, glass, ceramics, leather, they are characterized by good electrical insulating properties, but high dielectric losses (tgb = 0.05). Glue BF-2 is used when good moisture and heat resistance of the adhesive line is required. BF-4 glue is preferred if elasticity and frost resistance of the joint are required. To achieve high bonding strength, the surfaces to be glued must be carefully adjusted to each other (gap no more than 0.05 mm), cleaned of dirt and oxides, degreased with acetone or another solvent. A thin primer layer of glue is applied to the surfaces prepared in this way with a brush, dried for about 1 hour in air or for 15 minutes. at a temperature of 85 - 95 ºС. After cooling the parts to room temperature, a second second layer of glue is applied, allowed to dry, after which the parts are pulled together (for example, with a clamp) and placed in a thermostat or oven, where they are dried at a temperature of 120 - 160 ºС for 2 hours. If the parts have low heat resistance, the adhesive line is dried at room temperature for 36 - 48 hours, however, the bonding strength in this case will be lower.
These adhesives can be used to protect metal parts from corrosion. They spread well over the surface of the metal and provide a coating that is sufficiently resistant to mechanical and chemical influences. If the glue is too thick, it can be diluted with ethyl alcohol.

5. Adhesives BF-6 are used for gluing fabrics, providing strength no less than when stitching. To make the connection invisible, trim the fringe and adjust the edges of the fabric. Then cut out an overlay 1.5 - 2 cm wide from a similar or thinner fabric. The fabric is cleaned of dust and dirt. So that the glue does not protrude on the front side of the fabric in the future, the overlay and the junction are abundantly moistened with water and squeezed out. A thin layer of glue is applied with a brush from the wrong side of the fabric and to the glued side of the lining. The glue is allowed to dry in the air until it is “tack free”, then a second layer is applied and also dried until it is “tack free”. An overlay is applied from the inside, covered with a clean, damp cloth and pressed with a hot iron. Every 10 - 12 seconds, the iron is torn off for 2 - 3 seconds, then pressed again. This operation is repeated until the moistened area of ​​the fabric is dry. Then, without moving the material, allow it to cool to room temperature. The iron should be heated to the temperature recommended for the type of fabric. Similarly, you can seal a gap, cut, or eliminate a hole in the fabric.

6. 88H adhesives bond rubber and other materials well to metal. The glue is thinned with benzene to the consistency of liquid sour cream (does not reach for the brush and does not drain from it), smear rubber (or other material) with it and dry for 3-5 minutes. Then a second layer is applied to the rubber and the first to the metal. Both layers are dried for 5 - 6 minutes. The parts are connected and the rubber is rolled with a roller, and dried during the day (preferably under pressure).

7. Glue "Unicum" provides a waterproof connection of products made of wood, metal, rubber, ceramics, leather, leather substitutes, dense fabrics, foam rubber and plastics in various combinations. A layer of glue is applied to the surfaces to be glued, degreased with acetone or gasoline, after 2 - 3 minutes - another layer and tightly compressed for 5 - 6 hours. It is recommended to use glued products no earlier than 24 hours later. Work with glue should be in a well-ventilated area away from fire, as the glue is flammable.

8. Glue "Mars" is intended mainly for gluing leather and leather products, but can also be successfully used for ceramics, wood, cardboard, polystyrene. A thin layer of adhesive is applied to dry and cleaned surfaces. After 5 minutes, a second layer is applied, the surfaces to be bonded are joined and left under load for 24 hours. The glue is combustible, and it is necessary to work with it away from open flame.

9. Isocyanate glue provides a strong bond between rubber and metal. Adhesive composition: leuconate and dichloroethane in a share ratio of 2:8. Parts are cleaned and degreased. The metal is coated with glue and dried in air for 30-40 minutes. Then the first layer is applied to the rubber, and the second layer to the metal. After 20 - 30 minutes, a third layer is applied to the metal, and a second layer is applied to the rubber. The parts are connected, compressed, heated to a temperature of 180 - 240 ºС and dried at this temperature for 10 - 12 minutes.

10. Wood glue is widely used for gluing wood. The quality of the glue largely depends on the correctness of its preparation. The right amount dry tile adhesive is crushed, poured with clean cold water(3 - 5 cm above the level of glue) and kept in it for 6 - 12 hours. After swelling of the glue upper layer water is drained, the dishes with glue are placed in a "water bath", and heated over low heat, stirring occasionally, until all the pieces of glue are dissolved. In the process of preparation, the temperature of the glue should not exceed 60 - 70 ºС, otherwise its adhesive ability deteriorates. During the bonding process, the temperature of the adhesive solution should be 30 - 50 ºС.
When gluing wood along the fibers, the surfaces of the parts are smeared with glue once, the end surfaces - twice, allowing the first layer to dry. The parts to be glued are not compressed immediately, since hot glue it is partially squeezed out, and the glue is allowed to dry for 3-5 minutes (the film should be sticky when tested with a finger and stretched into threads). After that, the parts are connected, rubbed a little, slightly shifting them, then squeezed (with a vice, clamps) or pulled together (with twine, bandage) and left for 4-6 hours. When repairing products, the layer of the old glue is removed. To do this, moisten a rag with water and put it on a layer of glue for 2 hours. Softened glue is scraped off with a knife, chisel or spatula.
The strength of the adhesive joint depends on its thickness and the moisture content of the wood. To obtain a strong connection, the thickness of the seam should be no more than 0.1 - 0.15 mm. When wood moisture is more than 12% (veneer - 5%), the bonding strength deteriorates significantly. A small addition of an antiseptic (borax, phenol, salicylic acid) makes the adhesive resistant to all types of mold.

11. Waterproof carpentry glue can be obtained by adding natural alif to ordinary carpentry glue in a mass ratio of 4:1.

12. Adhesive paste is used for priming, puttying and gluing wood parts with joint gaps exceeding 0.2 mm. The paste is obtained by mixing in hot glue finely sifted ash, or dry sifted chalk, or micanite dust, etc. Glue paste can also be obtained by mixing the above fillers with other adhesives.

13. Syndeticone glue is used for gluing wood and gluing various materials to it.
The composition of the glue (in grams per liter of water): dry wood glue - 200, sugar - 200, slaked lime - 70. Dissolve sugar in water, then lime and heat over low heat until a clear liquid is obtained. The solution is filtered and crushed wood glue is put into it. During the day, wood glue is allowed to swell, and then it is dissolved in a glue pot in a "water bath". In closed glassware, glue can be stored for a long time without losing its properties.
When finely sifted ash or dry chalk is added to the glue, a good putty paste is obtained.

14. Casein glue is used for gluing wood, mainly with pressing, cardboard, as well as for gluing paper, fabric, and leather to wood and cardboard. Casein, is a light powder, diluted in cold water to the density of sour cream, adding water in small portions and mixing thoroughly for 40 - 50 minutes. Glue is ready for use in an hour and a half. Apply glue with a brush on both surfaces to be glued, which, after 4-6 minutes, are tightly compressed and incubated for at least 6-8 hours. Complete drying will occur in 18 - 20 hours.
Dried glue is much more resistant to heat and humidity than wood glue. The addition of aluminum alum (100 g/l) makes the adhesive bond more water resistant. The adhesive must be antiseptic, otherwise, if the hygroscopic materials dry slowly, mold will form and the parts may be damaged. For antiseptic, the glue is diluted in a 10 - 15% ammonia solution ( ammonia) or add 200 g/l of borax to it. It should be remembered that the glue leaves stains, especially noticeable on light wood, and over time these stains can become more contrasting.
Perestoyashee (more than 4 - 6 hours) and thickened glue should not be diluted with water: it has lost its adhesive ability.

15. Binding glue is prepared from joiner's glue by adding glycerin (1/20 of the glue volume) to liquid hot glue (directly in a "water bath").

16. Glue for cardboard is prepared by dissolving 9 g in 100 ml of water. office (silicate) glue, 6 gr. potato starch and 1 gr. Sahara. The resulting slurry is heated until a homogeneous mass is formed. Cardboard can be glued with many other adhesives, however, the adhesive according to this recipe gives a stronger bond than, for example, flour paste, and is also cheaper than many other adhesives, which is important when big expense glue.

17. Dextrin glue is a common paper glue. Glue is prepared by diluting dextrin with cold water (400 g/l). Dextrin can be prepared by yourself if you heat dry potato starch on an iron sheet to 400 ºС and grind the resulting brown opaque lumps into powder.

18. Tissue paper glue can be prepared by adding enough denatured alcohol to dextrin glue to make a syrupy liquid. This adhesive does not seep through the paper.

19. Gum arabic - glue for paper and cardboard from gum (thickened juice of some fruit trees e.g. cherries, plums, apricots). The gum is crushed into powder and diluted with warm water to the consistency of liquid sour cream.

20. Starch paste - glue for paper. Potato starch at the rate of 60 - 80 g / l is dissolved in cold water (1/5 of the total volume of water), thoroughly stirred, brewed with boiling water (4/5 of the total volume of water) and borax (25 g / l) is added. The paste is usually applied cold.

21. Flour paste - glue for paper and cardboard. To prepare 1 liter. paste take 200 g of wheat flour and 50 g of dry wood glue. The flour is diluted in cold water and, with thorough stirring, boiling water is added until a liquid slurry is formed. Then pour in wood glue dissolved in water. The resulting mass is boiled over low heat, stirring constantly so that it does not burn. When the gruel starts to bubble and turns bluish, the paste is ready.

22. Photo glue can be used for gluing scales, nameplates made on photographic paper. The composition of the photoglue (in grams per liter of water): starch - 60, aluminum alum - 40, chalk (tooth powder) - 40, dry blue - 1. About half of the total amount of water is heated and alum is dissolved in it. The remaining water is used to prepare a starch paste. The alum solution is poured into the paste and mixed well. After half an hour, add chalk (tooth powder) and blue and mix thoroughly. Store glue in a closed glass container.

23. Glue for connecting fabric, leatherette and leather with wood can be prepared according to the following recipe (in mass fractions): mix wheat flour (40), rosin (3), aluminum alum (1.5), all this is poured with water (100) and stir thoroughly. The resulting dough-like mass is put on low heat and stirred until the mass begins to thicken. Bonding is done with hot glue.

24. Protacryl - plastic mass - universal high-quality adhesive and coating, which, after grinding and polishing, gives a decorative moisture-proof surface. Widely used in dental practice. It is insoluble in acids, alkalis, mineral oils, and adheres well to various materials- metal, glass, porcelain, plastic, wood.
Protacryl consists of a powder and a liquid, which are mixed immediately before use in a ratio of 2: (1 - 1.1) in a glass or chinaware and stir for 1-2 minutes. at the same time, avoid getting air bubbles into the mass (the spatula should always touch the bottom of the dish while mixing the mass). The powder should be completely saturated with liquid, the surface of the mass should become uniform and shiny. The readiness of the mass is determined by the appearance of threads stretching behind the spatula. The surfaces to be glued are cleaned of dirt and thoroughly degreased with acetone, gasoline or some other organic solvent.
Apply glue to both surfaces, then combine them and lightly squeeze. Complete polymerization at a temperature of 40 - 45 C occurs after 15 - 20 minutes, at room temperature - after 30 - 70 minutes.
Protacryl can be applied to the surface in several layers to achieve the required coating thickness. Places not to be coated are lubricated with silicone oil or rubbed with graphite powder. Somewhat worse results are given by ordinary sunflower oil.

25. Celluloid glue is a solution of celluloid in acetone. To prepare such glue at home, you need to dissolve pieces of celluloid (2 - 3g) in acetone (100ml). The glue is applied to the fat-free surface with a brush or a wooden spatula, allowed to dry for 2-3 minutes, after which the parts are tightly connected and dried at room temperature for about an hour.

26. Glue for polystyrene - a solution of polystyrene shavings (4 - 6 g) in benzene (10 ml). The gluing technology is the same as for celluloid, but the drying time is 10 - 12 hours. Polystyrene parts can also be glued with pure acetone, which dissolves this material well. In addition, glue "Unicum" or "Mars" is used.

27. Glue for organic glass may have one of the following compositions (solution of organic glass chips):
0.5 - 1.5 g chips, 100 ml dichloroethane.
3 - 5 g chips, 100 ml of 85% formic acid.
3 - 5 g chips, 100 ml glacial acetic acid.
0.5 - 1 g of chips, a mixture of acetone (60 ml) and vinegar essence (40 ml).
In addition, organic glass can be glued with pure dichloroethane. To do this, it is applied to organic glass with a brush until the surface layer of the parts begins to slightly dissolve. It is better to work with dichloroethane outdoors, as it is toxic. Avoid getting it on damaged skin.

28. Glue for ebonite is prepared by mixing pure rosin powder (6 mass fractions) with linseed oil (1 share). The composition is heated, stirring, and brought to a boil. After cooling, the adhesive is stored indefinitely. The surfaces to be glued are treated with a rasp, heated at a temperature of 50 - 70 ºС for 15 - 20 minutes and the glue heated to boiling is applied to them.

29. The adhesive solution of foam in dichloroethane or acetone is resistant to alkali and alkaline electrolyte and can serve as protective film for painted surfaces. The solution is prepared in a clean glass container, pouring small pieces of polystyrene with a solvent. The solution should have the density of silicate glue. A thin layer of the solution is applied with a brush on a degreased with pure gasoline or acetone and dried with a brush and dried. Then the surface is covered with paint or bituminous varnish and, after drying, the solution is applied again. As a result, a layer of paint or varnish will be between two layers of alkali-resistant coating. In this way it is good to cover, for example, cans of alkaline batteries. The solution is toxic and volatile. It is necessary to prepare the solution and work with it outdoors or in a room with good ventilation. Store the solution in a bottle with a stopper.

30. Glue for glass is prepared by dissolving gelatin in an equal amount of a 5% solution of potassium dichromate. Glue is prepared in a darkened room. The parts are coated, tightened with a clamp or, for example, tightly wrapped with threads and kept in the light for 5-8 hours. The glue does not dissolve in hot water.

31. Glue for glass and ceramics may have one of the following compositions:
A solution of casein in liquid glass (or silicate glue).
Gypsum mixed with egg white.
Gypsum soaked overnight saturated solution aluminum alum, then dried, ground and mixed with water (this the best composition for bonding ceramics).
A solution of dry finely ground chalk (tooth powder) in liquid glass in a ratio of 1:4 (by weight).
All these adhesives should have the consistency of sour cream.

32. Paste for bonding glass to metal is convenient for a large area of ​​bonded surfaces, as it has a liquid consistency. The adhesive bond is quite strong. The composition of the paste in mass fractions:
Oxide midi - 2.
Emery powder - 2.
Liquid glass - 6.
The mixture is ground until a homogeneous mass is formed. The glued parts are heated to 100 ºС and maintained at this temperature for 2 hours, then cooled to room temperature. After 12 - 14 hours the paste will completely harden.

33. Heat-resistant adhesive paste suitable for repairing vitrified resistors, for insulating their leads, as well as for insulating heating elements. Dried talc (6 mass fractions) is mixed with liquid glass (or silicate glue), which is taken so much as to obtain a mass of sour cream consistency (about 8 - 12 parts). Damaged or moldable areas of the coating are smeared with paste and dried at room temperature for about an hour. Then the part is heated to 100 - 110 ºС and maintained at a temperature of 10 - 15 minutes.

34. Putty for fixing steel reinforcement in stone can be prepared according to the following recipe in (mass fractions:
Dry ingredients are mixed - iron filings (100), gypsum (300), ammonia (5) and this mixture is diluted with 9%, so-called table vinegar (40 - 60) to the desired consistency. The resulting putty is used immediately.

35. Lock putty eliminates spontaneous unscrewing of nuts, replacing various lock washers. Talc is kneaded in nitro enamel in a ratio of 1: 3 and diluted to the desired consistency with acetone or a solvent for nitro paints.

36. Putties are used to seal minor flaws and level the surface of metal, wood and plastic products before applying decorative paint and varnish coatings.
Choose putty from the table depending on the material of the product, the condition of its surface and paintwork, which will be applied.

Component

Oil-based for metal and wood Lacquered for metal and wood Oil-adhesive for wood
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10
Drying oil 145 18 180 20 20 - - 40 50 150
Turpentine 28 - 26 - 20 - - - - -
Desiccant 14 9 14 19 - - - - - -
Bone glue (10% water solution 28 64 27 35 - - - 112 - -
Soap 3 4 3 - - - - - - -
Dry ocher - - 55 340 60 65 50 - - -
Chalk 782 905 695 586 660 585 570 665 730 750
Minium yellow dry - - - - - 30 30 - - -
Oil varnish - - - - 200 235 350 73 - -
Water - - - - 40 20 - 110 180 40
Zinc white - - - - - 65 - - - -
Paint glue dry - - - - - - - - 40 -
Solution of rubber N3 in turpentine 1:1 - - - - - - - - - 60
The binder must be filtered if it contains mechanical impurities, and the filler and dyes must be sifted until the tooth powder is ground. It is convenient to prepare putty on a sheet of tin with curved edges, or on a sheet of plywood with slats stuffed along the edges. It is recommended to first mix all the dry ingredients, and then add a binder to them.
Ready putty can be stored for several months in a plastic bag or in a jar, pouring water on top.
In addition to the compositions given in the table, when working with wood products and some home-made plastics, adhesive pastes can be used as putties. Putty the surface to be treated with a spatula.

Did you know?

It is convenient to spread the glue with the help of a polyethylene cork from a bottle, for example, from champagne. Glue is poured into the cork, covered with a strip of paper, turned over and placed on the surface to be glued, then a strip of paper is pulled out and, evenly driving the cork over the surface, the glue is smeared. The layer is thin and even.

brushes the right sizes for applying glue, it can be quickly made from a worn-out brush-basting or a mop with synthetic bristles. Even a mesh in which fruits and vegetables are packed will fit. To do this, take an aluminum tube (made of soft alloys) suitable diameter, process its end with a file, chamfer, especially carefully along the inner edge (it is more convenient to do this with a shoe knife or another knife). The pile is folded in half, threading a strong twine or soft wire into the resulting loop, in order to then draw the bunch of pile into the tube to a depth of 15 - 20 mm. It is advisable to preliminarily hold the part of the pile drawn into the tube for 20-30 seconds in hot water. Then it remains to compress the end of the tube with a pile in a vice or flatten it with a hammer and cut off the excess pile with a knife, giving the desired shape and size to the working end of the brush.

Polyethylene can be glued with BF glue. The surface must be thoroughly rinsed with a 25% solution of chromic anhydride in order to remove a very thin fatty film from the polyethylene, after which the adhesive "sets" well.

Capron can be glued together with concentrated hydrochloric acid or formic acid.

Mica is glued with a weak solution of gelatin. If increased requirements are imposed on the strength of the bonding, then chromic alum is added to the gelatin.

A split abrasive bar can be glued together with shellac, and the connection is not inferior in strength to a solid stone. First of all, it is necessary to carefully clean the fracture points and remove the remaining oil by heating the pieces on a hot thick metal sheet. The flame must not touch the pieces, otherwise they may burst elsewhere. For the same reason, they should not be overheated. The surfaces to be glued are carefully sprinkled with shellac and the pieces are heated again until the shellac melts and fills the pores. Then the pieces are folded, pressed one to the other, clamped with a clamp and held until they cool.

To prepare a small amount of epoxy glue, you can use a well-washed tube from the rod ballpoint pen or "straw" for cocktails. Two risks are made on the tube at a distance, for example, 10 and 110 mm from one end. First, the hardener is sucked up to the first risk, then the resin - to the second, that is, in a ratio of 1:10. A cotton wad is inserted into the tube and pushed through with a wire, squeezing out the glue components, which are then thoroughly mixed. You can use a rubber bulb to suck up the components.

Epoxy adhesive can also be applied to a wet surface, but then instead of the commonly used polyethylene polyamine, another hardener is needed - AF-2.

Sufficiently "universal" glue can be prepared from small pieces of linoleum (without a cloth base): the scraps are poured into a glass or metal jar of paint or instant coffee, poured with acetone to the top layer and tightly closed with a lid. After 15 - 20 hours the glue is ready. It glues metal, wood, ceramics, fabric, felt well. When mixing glue with chalk powder in a mass ratio of 1: 2, a waterproof putty is obtained.

A good "thin" putty can be prepared on water-based paint (you can use the sediment of a long-stored paint), adding finely sifted chalk or tooth powder to it. Putty should be applied in a thin layer, using a metal spatula for this. Steel products can only be puttied after priming, as the water-based base causes intense corrosion of the unprotected metal surface. Water-based paint contains an antiseptic. Therefore, the putty prepared on it is resistant to mold.

A can with a longitudinal section allows you to clean the spatula from putty in the process. The spatula is inserted into the incision and pulled out. The spatula is cleaned with the edges of the cut, the putty remains in the jar.

In life, situations often arise when in the bathroom you need to do urgent repair and it is not known how to glue the toilet.

This happens with careless handling of bathroom and toilet equipment. Practice shows that abruptly lowering the toilet seat, you can inadvertently damage it.

This plumbing fixture is strong enough to withstand heavy loads.

At the same time, you need to know that there are toilet bowls on the market that are manufactured according to different technologies and different companies.

Products have various designs and methods of fixing in a certain place.

Materials for the production of toilet bowls

The question - what toilet bowls are made of, arises before a person in the case when this device needs to be repaired. In a modern comfortable apartment, it is impossible to do without this device.

According to statistics, under certain conditions, the toilet is used every seven minutes.

Taking into account such circumstances, they are made from the following materials:

• porcelain;
• faience;
• steel.

Products require not only mechanical strength, but also the ability to withstand exposure to a chemically aggressive environment.


Ceramic materials suitable for the production of toilet bowls the best way. The seat is usually plastic.

Metal toilets are most often installed in in public places. A metal device can be installed in the country or during the implementation of some design project.

Ceramic toilets are the most widely used. Products have universal parameters for the possibility of their location and fastening.

Vast experience has been accumulated in the installation, repair and dismantling of the toilet bowl, cistern, stop valves. At the same time, various violations in the rules for the installation and operation of the toilet bowl are regularly recorded.

Which, in turn, leads to partial or complete destruction of the product.

Causes of cracks and chips

Despite their hardness, earthenware and porcelain remain brittle materials.

With a point mechanical or thermal impact, a porcelain product easily cracks and even splits into several fragments. And the question arises: how to glue the toilet?

Most often, the following causes and actions lead to a violation of the integrity of the toilet:

• hit with a hard object;
• a sharp temperature drop;
• installation errors.

When a bottle of hairspray is regularly dropped on the lid of the drain tank, sooner or later the lid will crack.

If you pour boiling water into the toilet bowl, then it is likely that in this case a crack will form in it.

When installing a toilet in new apartment or when replacing an old product, it is necessary to strictly follow the sequence of actions and be careful.

The video shows the installation process of the toilet.

You need to know that a secure fixation plumbing fixture on the base can be done with bolts, glue or liquid nails.

When bolts are used, they must be tightened evenly so that no additional stress arises in the body of the toilet.

It should be emphasized that a crack in this case may appear after a certain period of time. If glue is used for fastening, then it is very important to follow the technology for preparing the surfaces to be glued.

How to glue a cracked toilet?

When starting to repair the toilet, it is necessary to securely fasten the seat so that it does not hang out or remove it altogether. The whole gluing procedure consists of three steps.

Before performing them, you should prepare all the materials and tools necessary for this.

Today on the market you can easily find a tool for gluing any surfaces and materials.

And despite such an abundance of choice, there are many recipes with which glue can be made by hand.

It is not forbidden to use "self-made" means, but it is preferable to use factory materials.

Before embarking on this painstaking and demanding procedure, you need to prepare accordingly.

For work you will need:

• special glue;
• sanding skin;
• solvent;
• spatula narrow;
• soft fabric;

You can use the hair dryer you use to dry your hair.

Surface preparation

Regardless of whether the porcelain toilet will have to be glued or faience, the surface of the glued fragments must be cleaned and degreased.

For this, it is used sandpaper with fine grain. After that, the surfaces to be glued are wiped with a soft cloth and treated with acetone or gasoline.

Seam bonding

The sequence of actions is determined depending on the type of glue. Most often, glue is applied (including on the tank) in two steps. After applying the first layer, you need to pause.

During this time, the adhesive adheres to the porcelain surface. Then a second layer is applied, and the fragments are joined together.

They need to be pressed against one another as tightly as possible.

Finishing

It is very important to press the parts to be joined and hold them in this position for a certain time.

This period is indicated in the instructions for using the adhesive, which is always printed on the packaging. After the seam is completely dry, it should be treated with an emery cloth.

Then it must be degreased and another layer of glue applied.

At this point, the toilet restoration process is considered complete.

Which glue to choose?

It is known from practice that so-called liquid nails can be used to securely fasten ceramic fragments.

If you need to restore cistern, then the bonding technology is exactly the same. Sanitaryware and porcelain bond well ready-made formulations, which are freely sold in the trading network.

Among them, it is necessary to name the long-standing and well-proven BF-2 glue. The abbreviation BF stands for "butyralphenol".

The numerical value indicates the percentage of polyvinyl buteral. How more number, the higher the elasticity of the adhesive bond. Therefore, BF-6 is not suitable for gluing a toilet bowl.

In order to glue the toilet or tank, you can use epoxy resin. It sticks together securely, but handling it is not very convenient.

It is preferable to take Rapid or Unicum glue. Any of these compounds is also glued to the toilet seat.

In the process of choosing an adhesive composition, each master has to rely on own experience and advice from the immediate environment.

Often you have to prepare such a composition yourself from individual components.

The tank lid can be glued with liquid nails. However, it should be borne in mind that this composition is not suitable for restoring the toilet bowl.

On the basis of liquid nails, you can prepare a high-quality adhesive mixture by adding chalk and a little quicklime to it. At the same time, you need to know that this composition “seizes” very quickly.

It is prepared immediately before gluing. In the process of gluing, excess composition must be removed immediately with a rag or soft cloth.

Every home has ceramic or porcelain items. But it often happens that the dishes break. It can be a crystal glass, a porcelain cup, a ceramic plate, or an ordinary ceramic figurine. And, despite the fact that ceramic dishes are durable, they still beat. If expensive dishes were broken, then after repair, the bonding points should be treated with special dyes, or some experts advise using liquid glass. After drying, carefully cut off the remains, so as not to hurt the part where the repair was made.

The better to glue ceramics and porcelain

I want to extend the life of ceramics. It is not only used for its intended purpose, but also decorates the interior with its originality and originality. What is better than ceramics or porcelain in terms of quality and durability is difficult to say, it all depends on various factors.

How to glue porcelain and ceramics? What glue for porcelain and ceramics to choose? Or maybe throw away a broken product? Throw away a broken vase or not? If not, how to glue a ceramic vase? Don't rush to throw away. You can always throw it away. First you need to try to glue the product, and if nothing happens, then you can throw it away. Throw away is the last thing left to do.

How to glue ceramics

Various adhesives are used to repair ceramics. There are many pottery repair products on the market. Cyanocryalate-based universal super glue is the optimal adhesive for ceramics, which can be easily found in any specialty store. The following Russian-made adhesives for the repair of ceramic dishes are on sale - Sekunda, Super Moment, Cyanopan, Glue, Strength, Monolith, Elephant. There are also imported adhesives for gluing. The best waterproof adhesive for ceramics is MARS.

For ceramics that are used to store food, PVA glue can be used for gluing. But, it is recommended that after gluing the ceramic cup be covered with a layer of varnish. Epoxy glue, adhesives F-2 and BF-4 can be used for gluing ceramic products.

How to glue porcelain

The following range of adhesives for porcelain is offered for sale - STANGE, "cosmofen ca-12", you can also use RAPID. Among Russian-made adhesives, carbinol adhesive should be noted. Also, instead of glue for porcelain repair, you can use epoxy resin EPOXY GLUE produced by BONDO, BIZON or similar glues. For gluing porcelain, you can use glue made on the basis of gypsum. To do this, add the protein of 1 egg to the gypsum powder and mix very well. The resulting glue can be used to glue porcelain. Moreover, the gluing procedure should be carried out very quickly, since this glue quickly hardens.

For gluing, you can make other glue at home. To do this, mix 1 protein and soda. Whisk the egg whites into foam, without adding soda. For one day, the whipped protein should settle, and only then add soda to the settled protein and mix. Soda should be added so much that a mass is obtained in consistency similar to a regular dough. Very often, food glue is recommended for porcelain repair, one that is easy to make at home.

For this you should:
1. Take 1 liter of water. Add to water 100 gr. sugar, 100 gr. lime (necessarily slaked). Put the resulting mixture on fire and believe on low heat for about 3-3.5 hours. The main thing when "cooking", no matter what boils.
2. Cool the resulting broth and let it stand for a few more hours.
3. The water that remains after settling must be drained.
4. Add 0.5 kg to the mixture. tile adhesive. Mix well and leave again for 10-15 hours to settle.
5. If there is excess water, then it must be drained. Boil the resulting mass 1 more time.
6. Cool down. Porcelain glue is ready.

Universal adhesives for both materials

There are a huge number of universal adhesives. These are adhesives that can be used to glue both porcelain and ceramics - casein glue, epoxy glues. The most popular is Porcelan Potch glue. Food grade glue is very often suitable for gluing both ceramics and porcelain. For example, the recipe described above can be used as an adhesive for ceramics and porcelain.

How to glue porcelain
Gluing porcelain at home with glue is quite simple; for this, you can use food-grade porcelain glue. If you use one of the following adhesives for gluing - Rapid, AGO, Kittyfix and Mekol, then follow these steps:
Surfaces to be bonded should be washed and dried;
Wipe with acetone;
Apply glue to the gluing points in one layer and immediately glue the parts, pressing firmly.
It can be fastened with a tourniquet for strength.

Cups break very often. And I want to give a second life to my favorite cup. The following shows how to glue a porcelain cup. Since the gluing algorithm is similar to the previous algorithm, but there are some differences:
1. For gluing, masters advise taking super glue.
2. Prepare surfaces for gluing - wash, dry and wipe with acetone. If the part is broken in the same place, remove the remaining glue.
3. Assemble the parts in advance.
4. The process of applying glue is the same. Glued in two layers.
5. Then the glued product should be placed if they are not large, they should be placed in a pot or cauldron, pour warm water and put on fire. Boil water on low heat for 2-3 hours. The product is placed to cool in water. And only then, when the water has cooled, they extract it.
6. If it is not possible to “boil the product”, then it can be “warmed up” in the oven, or held over an electric stove (but in this case, the “warming up” procedure must be performed very carefully so as not to overheat the product and not burn yourself).

It may happen that a crack has formed in the weight or cup, or a fragment has flown off, a small hole has formed.
Then the gluing algorithm is as follows:
1. Preparation for gluing is the same.
2. First you need to cut out a patch, the size of which should be 0.5 - 1.5 cm larger. You can take super-glue for ceramics, natural glue for gluing the patch is also suitable.
3. Be sure to take a waterproof one for repairs.
4. Pour water into the product, before the start of the patch, but so that the water does not come into contact with the patch.
5. Then boil the water for 2-3 hours.
6. Cool everything. And pour out the water.
7. If necessary, treat the bonding area with paint.
Porcelain figurines are repaired in the same way. But after the figurine has dried, it is recommended to cover it with several layers of varnish for greater durability. Each subsequent layer of varnish can be applied only when the previous layer of varnish has already dried well. After varnishing, the figurine will be a little heavier and will not be so fragile.

How to glue ceramics
Gluing ceramics at home is quite simple. You just need to follow following rules:
1. We start by assembling all the parts that need to be glued together. If you need to glue a previously repaired cup or vase, then remove the remaining glue with a knife. And when everything is removed from the surface, you can proceed to the next step.
2. Wash all assembled parts thoroughly in warm water. For washing, you can use dishwashing detergent. Then rinse and put to drain. Wiping is not recommended, so as not to cut yourself with sharp edges or break along the edges of the part.
3. All the details required for gluing, in order to know in advance what to glue where.
4. We process the places of gluing with acetone.
5. Apply a thin layer of adhesive evenly to the gluing points. To apply glue, you can use either a thin brush or an ear cleaning stick.
6. Just leave the first layer of glue to dry.
7. Then apply a second layer of adhesive. And press the parts that need to be glued. Let's keep the details for a few minutes. Then wipe off the residue with a rag.
8. It is desirable to glue another part after a while so that the previous ones stick well.
9. After the product is glued, it is desirable to fix it. And in this way everything will grab not only correctly, but also well.
10. A well-repaired part is considered if it has stood for 1-3 days (depending on the repair performed).
Since broken parts are still glass, it is recommended to wear rubber gloves when repairing in order to protect your hands from minor cuts and wounds in advance.
When gluing, if necessary, you can and should use tweezers, for example, to work with small parts. Repair of porcelain and ceramics is very easy to perform according to the algorithms described above.
Do not forget that all repaired products are no longer desirable to be used for food. Because if, by placing sour or salty food in such a product, harmful substances contained in the adhesive begin to be released. And this is very unhealthy. As a result, you know how to glue ceramics, how to glue ceramic dishes and how to glue porcelain. Which glue to choose or prepare the glue yourself.

General rules. It is always necessary to start gluing with one simple operation - with the preparation of the surfaces to be joined. They must be cleaned of dust and other contaminants, degreased with any solvent, and then dried. The adhesive film should be as thin as possible and, when attaching the parts to be glued, “grab” to the surfaces as much as possible.

If the surfaces on the fault have a complex relief, it is better to apply glue in two steps: first, one thin layer, which should dry to such an extent that, with a light, effortless alignment, the surfaces do not stick to each other, and then on top of the first - the second layer, which -ry before joining the parts to be glued, it is held for as long as indicated in the instructions for a particular adhesive.

When connecting the surfaces prepared in this way, you need to make sure that they are pressed against each other as tightly as possible. Important role it’s not even time that plays here, but the force with which the parts to be glued are pressed against each other - in this case, microscopic air bubbles that could adversely affect the strength of the adhesive seam should be (ideally) completely excluded.

By pressing the parts to be glued together with force, they ensure that the glue fills the microscopic pores and cracks of the material in the best possible way. Large items - the cistern lid - are connected on a flat horizontal surface.

Regarding long-term exposure under oppression, those adhesive compositions, which are prepared using various solvents; when this adhesive dries, the solvent evaporates, and its vapors, as it were, “push apart” the surfaces to be glued. It is clear that this does not contribute to a tight connection, and hence reliable bonding.

For fixing, you can use a clamp or a tight tourniquet, small objects are often simply stuck into a bucket of clean, dry sand, and a load is already placed on the sand layer, while the grains of sand evenly transfer force to the entire surface.

For gluing a cracked marble sink, a cracked toilet shelf, a chipped faucet body and other elements and plumbing fixtures, adhesives of various composition are used, each of which requires certain working methods. Let us dwell in more detail on the types and purpose of various adhesive compositions.

Familiar to everyone universal glue BF-2 has an almost unlimited scope for the repair of plumbing equipment. BF-2 is suitable for gluing plastic products (pipes and fittings of PVC pipelines, siphons made of various kinds thermoplastics, etc.), as well as for gluing and repairing sanitary ware. Bonding is noticeably accelerated with subsequent heating.

Faucets with cracked ceramic coatings, toilet bowl lids and other earthenware items are sometimes heated over an electric stove or even in an oven immediately after gluing, at a temperature not exceeding 100 ° C.

Ceramics and faience are also quite reliably glued. ready-made adhesives EPO, EDP, "Mars", MC-1, "Rapid", "Unicum" and a number of others. There are also homemade compositions.

For gluing ceramics and faience, as well as plastics at home, it is easy to prepare casein-based glue: 10 parts of casein and 1 part of borax are mixed in 2 parts of water, after which 2 more parts of water are added. To make the future seam waterproof, in ready solution you can add a few drops of formalin or a solution of aluminum alum. The glue hardens in 2-3 hours.

For gluing large objects made of faience or porcelain, you can independently prepare the glue of the following composition: 1 part glass flour (crushed glass) 2 parts sifted river sand and 6 parts of silicate glue ( liquid glass). The glue is strong enough, but the seam will be very noticeable.

Here is another recipe homemade glue: for 1 part Quicklime 10 parts of chalk and 2.5 parts of liquid glass. The composition hardens very quickly, so it should be prepared immediately before use.

You can prepare another glue for future use, consisting of turpentine (1 part) and shellac (2 parts by weight): melt 25 g of turpentine and 50 g of light shellac over low heat, cool the resulting mixture and divide into small tiles. In this form, the adhesive can be stored for a long time; before use, it is enough to reheat the mass, apply it in a thin layer on the surfaces to be glued and squeeze it firmly. Excess glue that has come out along the seam should be removed immediately.

Porcelain objects can also be glued with a gypsum-based composition. To prepare the glue, you will need, in addition to sculptural or medical plaster, ordinary alum. Glue is being prepared in the following way: burnt gypsum is left in a saturated solution of alum for 24 hours, then dried, calcined again and crushed, after which the powder is diluted with water to the consistency of thick sour cream.

To break a marble sink into several pieces, it must at least be dropped on hard surface. More often another trouble happens - some heavy object falls on the sink itself. Due to mechanical impacts, although the marble does not split into pieces, small chips or even cracks may appear on the surface of the shell.

A cracked marble countertop washbasin can be restored. To do this, you need a slurry of alabaster ground in glue water (for white marble), and if you need a different specific shade, ocher, ground slate (asbestos-fiber board) or other fillers are added to the putty. After the putty has hardened, the seam should be polished.

It happens, though not often, that an expensive marble slab is still broken into several large pieces. A cracked marble sink or washstand can be glued together using glue based on the same marble, ground into powder. If there is nothing to grind (except for the shelf itself), use gypsum glue with gum arabic: mix 4 parts of crushed gypsum with 1 part of gum arabic (in powder), add to the resulting mixture (until a batter is obtained) strong solution drills in cold water. The surfaces smeared with the resulting glue are firmly pressed against each other and left in a cool, dry place for 5-7 days.

If you want to make the seam completely invisible, you still have to prepare “marble” glue: grind a little marble into powder and mix with wax and rubber in the proportion: 2 parts of marble 2 parts of wax and 1 part of rubber. After heating the mixture in a water bath, it is applied to the surfaces to be glued and excess glue is carefully removed.