How to renew paint finish. What kind of varnish to cover the interior door and how best to do it? How to understand that it's time to renew a layer of varnish or impregnation

Even at the stage of buying products for treating wooden surfaces in your home, the question arises: how long will such protection last and when will it need to be updated. And with the approach of the repair time, the search for the answer to the question will begin: how to properly update the wooden surface?

You will immediately notice the first signs that the tree needs to be processed again. Cracks, swelling, peeling of the surface will speak about them. There is a drop method by which you can understand that the repair time has come: if water drops lose their shape and spread over the surface, soaking into it, then the protective layer does not fulfill its functions and must be restored.

Updating a wooden surface can be carried out over the entire surface, or in sections.

Step by step repair

• Surface preparation - we clean and grind the repaired area with a scraper, a metal brush, a spatula or lightly sand if the coating layer sits tightly on the surface.
• We apply an antiseptic primer that will protect the tree from swelling and fill the pores. We leave it to dry. Primers are acrylic - for internal surfaces, alkyd - for external and internal use, polystyrene - only for external use due to high toxicity, and others. The most popular primers are currently considered to be Belinka, Tikkurila, Pinotex, Lacra.
• Before application, the protective and decorative agent is thoroughly mixed and applied to the surface with a brush or roller. It is desirable to use the coating the same as it was before.
• For the entire drying time, we close the surface from dust and dirt if it is on the street and protect it from external influences if the repair is done at home.

If oil impregnation is restored, then at the final stage, to give the surface a shine, we process it with wax, applying it in the direction of the fibers with a brush or cloth. After incomplete drying, we polish.

It is important to know that a high-quality film is formed when a coating is applied in a thin layer. Therefore, it is better to make three thin layers than one thick one. When using blue, you need to take into account that it changes the shade of the surface and do not apply too many layers in order to maintain the desired color.

Drying time also affects the quality of the repair. To do this, you need to carefully read the instructions for the product that you use, and let it dry for the necessary time. It will be different for different media. For example, alkyd coatings can dry from 6 hours to several days. Water dispersion lasts 3-4 hours. Real oils require at least 24 hours to fully soak.

There is advice from experienced builders: in order to achieve durability of the coating of wooden surfaces, it is necessary to re-apply a decorative and protective coating after a year. This is especially true for those parts that are under the influence of different weather conditions. Then the surface will be preserved for a long time, and its visual destruction will not begin soon.

Restoration of lacquered furniture is the best solution if there are scratches or cracks on the surface. Only furniture made of wood can be upgraded. Chipboard products become unusable after removing the paintwork from them.

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Fixing minor defects

No matter how carefully the furniture is handled, scuffs, scratches, stains and other minor defects occur during its operation. In this case, the owners have a question about how to update the furniture with their own hands. There are many ways to restore the varnish coating:

• When the polished surface loses its shine or small spots appear, you should use any wood care product that contains orange oil. For uniform application, use a spray gun. Then the product is evenly rubbed over the surface with a cotton rag.
• Another way to remove stains is to use a special retouching marker, denatured alcohol and wax. First, the surface is degreased with a weak solution of dish detergent. When the moisture dries, the swab is moistened with alcohol and the spots are rubbed. If the scratch is deep, the varnish will not recover its color. In this case, a marker is used. To give shine, the surface is waxed and rubbed with a rag.
• If small scratches form irregularities, it is better to clean them with a nail file. It allows you to work more delicately in comparison with sandpaper.
• When the wood swells from moisture that has fallen on it, you need to mix salt with olive oil and rub the problem area. Leave the mixture for half an hour on the damaged area. Salt absorbs moisture, and olive gives elasticity to the fibers. After drying, the gruel is removed, waxed and polished.
• If furniture with chips is to be restored, wood putty is used. It is better to choose the color on the spot by buying a light product and adding color to it. The cleavage site and the adjacent surface are smeared. When the putty dries, it is polished with fine-grained sandpaper.

Refresh polish on old furniture is allowed using the following mixtures:

1. 2 parts turpentine, 2 parts linseed oil, 1 part vinegar are mixed and applied with a swab to defects or abrasions.
2. 25 parts of turpentine, 15 parts of alcohol, 1 part of a 10% soap solution, 5 parts of drying oil, 4 parts of shellac and 45 parts of water are thoroughly mixed. Use the product cold. It is best to apply the mixture with a flannel rag.

Significant varnish damage

When furniture has significant damage, the question arises of how to remove old varnish from a wooden surface. The reasons may be:

• cracking of the coating;
• a large number of minor damage that spoil the appearance;
• deep cracks, etc.

To remove old varnish from furniture, special chemicals are used or the coating is removed mechanically.

The first option is preferable because it removes the varnish without damaging the wood. Mechanical action is resorted to in cases where deep chips and cracks form on the surface.

After removing the old varnish and restoration work, the furniture must be re-coated with a layer of protective agent. It should be chosen correctly so as not to spoil the appearance of the tree.

To restore the paintwork, the following materials are used:

1. shellac polish;
2. nitrocellulose varnish;
3. pentaphthalic varnish.

The first material allows you to emphasize the texture of wood, it gives an original shade to the surface. Its consistency is similar to water. For restoration, 40-60 layers are applied to the tree. This allows for exceptional color depth.

Nitrocellulose varnish is used for the restoration of large surfaces. It is applied using a special sprayer, which evenly distributes the product over the surface at high speed. Otherwise, the drops will solidify each separately. Application with simple sprayers will result in air bubbles.

To cover furniture with pentaphthalic varnish, you do not need to have special tools or follow special techniques. This makes this product ideal for home use. The minimum number of layers is four. To obtain a semi-matte surface, a swab is used. A glossy effect is achieved with a brush and finishing sanding.

Choosing a wash

An inexperienced user may be faced with the question of how to remove the varnish of old furniture. To completely remove the lacquer coating, use a wash. It is a special chemical composition designed to soften and remove paint.

When choosing, you need to pay attention to the consistency of the wash. When it is planned to clean horizontal surfaces, use a liquid agent. To remove varnish from vertical parts, choose a gel or paste remover. If you are cleaning a large area, you should take a powdered product, because it lasts longer.

Washing technology

To remove old varnish from furniture at home, tools and materials are needed:

• flush;
• brush;
• rubber gloves;
• putty knife;
• film.

Work should be carried out outdoors, using personal protective equipment. The chemical agent is evenly applied with a brush over the entire surface. Particular attention should be paid to deep areas of damage. The furniture is then wrapped in plastic wrap to enhance the effect. Withstand the time indicated on the package, remove the film and use a non-sharp spatula to remove the old layer of varnish.

At the end, the remains of the wash and varnish are removed with water. If necessary, after drying the surface, proceed to mechanical cleaning with sandpaper. After roughing, the furniture is sanded with fine-grained paper to remove all irregularities.

The procedure for applying a new paintwork

Not everyone knows how to varnish furniture. First, the surface should be primed to close the micropores in the wood. This will help reduce varnish consumption. It can be primed with liquid wax or special means. The following compositions are also used:

1. beeswax dissolved in turpentine;
2. a mixture of wood powder and PVA glue;
3. sifted chalk mixed with water with the addition of color.

The primer is applied with a brush, and when the material dries, it is polished again. Then proceed to varnishing. This process is carried out with a brush, the movements should be smooth in order to evenly distribute the varnish over the surface.

Since various means are used in the process of repairing and restoring the varnish coating, depending on the type of substance chosen, the number of layers indicated in the instructions is required. Each subsequent layer is applied only after the previous one has completely dried. In the end, you must definitely use polishing, you can use ready-made products or made yourself.

Interior doors are daily subjected to intensive use, moisture, dirt, mechanical damage. The canvas loses its attractiveness, integrity and strength. Therefore, a person uses additional methods to help protect the door from such troubles, for example, by applying a varnish layer. How to do this, what varnish to choose and whether it is possible to update previously coated wooden door structures are the main issues that will be discussed in the article.

You can varnish only veneer sheets or wooden doors from:

• oak;
• beech;
• mahogany;
• cedar;
• pines.

There are times when the old varnish coating is worn out and damaged. There is no point in using paint here. It is better to apply a varnish composition, but a darker shade.

New cover:

1. masks cracks, chips, traces of mold, fungus;
2. will prevent the appearance of insects, putrefactive formations, unpleasant odors (especially in the bathroom).

Very often people change the varnish layer when the room is being renovated. This allows you to get doors in the same style as the entire interior.

What composition to process?

The choice of varnishes is huge. The compositions are classified into several groups according to the type of base. To choose a paintwork, use the following tips:

• A good option is a varnish for interior work. If there is high humidity in the room, then it is better to choose paintwork materials for outdoor work.
• Pay attention to resistance to sudden temperature fluctuations.
• Take into account the style of the interior. For example, matte varnish is suitable for Provence-style rooms.
• Surface quality. When varnishing interior doors, gloss will make defects and irregularities more noticeable, and matte will mask it.

Attention

It is necessary to check the selected composition for compatibility with the primer. Otherwise, the combination of non-harmonizing materials will lead to cracking or final damage to the canvas.

Alkyd

Varnishes are made on solvents, interior doors will have an off-white, rather yellowish tint.

Advantages:

1. strength;
2. moisture resistance;
3. fast drying;
4. acceptable price.

Minuses:

1. unpleasant pungent odor;
2. fast fading in the sun;
3. contains harmful substances.

Nitro-varnishes

Acetone and nitrogen compounds act as a base. The substance is transparent, able to preserve the natural shade of the tree. However, nitrolac cannot be used in living rooms.

Pros:

1. low price;
2. strength;
3. durability;
4. short drying times - up to 1 hour.

Disadvantages:

1. toxicity;
2. flammability.

It is forbidden to use this composition in homes where children and pets live.

Polyurethane

The basis is polymers with long molecules. This varnish, when coated, changes the shade of interior doors to a darker one.

Advantages:

1. nice smell;
2. not toxicity.

But polyurethane varnish is applied only on a previously prepared primer layer.

Acrylic

Made on a water basis. Eco-friendly, suitable for use in living rooms.

Pros:

1. fast drying due to water evaporation;
2. resistance to sunlight;
3. mechanical damage.

Disadvantages - fragility.

How to update coverage?

To make the process easy, you need to prepare. All work is described below in stages.

Tools and materials

You will need:

• varnish for wood;
• bioprotective primer;
• brush, foam roller or spray;
• lacquer tray;
• dry rag;
• solvent;
• wood putty;
• putty knife;
• sandpaper with fine and coarse grain;
• grinding belt or vibration machine;
• construction dryer.

It is necessary to purchase varnish with a margin. Professional craftsmen apply the composition in two layers, while paying special attention to the ends. It is recommended to provide an additional 10-15% margin for painting damaged areas of interior doors or as a replacement for accidentally spilled varnish.

Preparatory work

The appearance of the updated door depends on the quality of its preparation. The sequence is as follows:

• Grinding. Use fine grit sandpaper (number 90-160). Perform the procedure carefully, carefully, processing every centimeter of the door. If there is no desire to waste time on such a tedious process, then the surface is treated with a grinder. It will speed up the work, will allow you to get a better result.
• Cleaning. Vacuum the treated surface to remove any remaining dust.
• Putty. Inspect the door leaf in bright light. If cracks or damage are noticed, they must be puttied. The putty should have an identical shade with the base material. Otherwise, it will be visible through the varnish layer. Sand the patched areas after drying.
• Primer. The bioprotective composition will scare away insects, exclude the appearance of fungus, mold. It will fill the pores in the wood, reduce the consumption of the main varnish. After priming, sand the surface well with coarse paper (180 units).

Building materials and paints and varnishes must be made on the same basis. Otherwise, the components will react with each other, which will then lead to cracking and delamination of the door leaf. It is better to take goods from one manufacturer.

Step-by-step instruction

1. Stir the varnish in a production container. Do it slowly so that air bubbles do not get into the jar. Inaccuracy will lead to unpleasant consequences: bubbles will be very difficult to remove, especially on the door leaf.
2. Pour a small amount of varnish into the paint tray. Smooth, sweeping movements apply the composition to the door. Paint hard-to-reach areas with a brush.
3. Eliminate breaks or delays, otherwise transitions between layers will be visible.
4. Apply the second layer so that it is perpendicular to the first. If a third layer is needed, then its direction must be the same as the first. Wait until each layer is completely dry.
5. Don't forget the brushes. Paint over the paneled part, frame, platbands with a narrow brush. If smudges appear, then treat the surface with coarse sandpaper (number 180).

During the drying of the varnish layer, it is necessary to store brushes and rollers in a plastic bag. This will prevent them from drying out and sticking together. If there are fittings on the doors, they are removed before varnishing. Otherwise, the impregnation will not get into hidden areas, which will lead to the appearance of rot or bark beetle.

If the door is made of veneer, then the varnishing procedure is performed with extreme caution. It is forbidden to use a grinder - it will break the top layer. The stages are performed manually or entrusted to the masters. It is recommended to carefully approach the choice of paint and varnish composition.

• New doors may not be sanded. It is enough to pick up a varnish and get to work. If there is slight damage, varnish the surface, rub with Polish.
• Faux veneer door suitable for painting. However, the varnish will roll down the canvas. Therefore, priming is needed.

It is better to take acrylic varnish. Apply in two layers. Too dense paint structure will be lost after varnishing the door.

To eliminate defects and errors during the varnishing of the interior door, follow the recommendations of the masters:

• Use masking or paper tape. Wrap door handles and other fittings with the product. This will protect the elements from getting varnish, building mixtures. Regular tape is prohibited. It will leave marks that cannot be removed later.
• Choose mixtures, varnishes from one manufacturer. Don't forget to test paint.
• It is better to get rid of the old protective layer. This has a positive effect on the final appearance of the door, extend its service life.
• Don't forget about safety. Carry out work with protective gloves. In case of skin irritation, protective clothing should be worn.
• Ventilate the room.
• After finishing work, let the doors dry well: do not touch or load.

On doors made of birch, oak and pine, varnish is applied liberally so that the surface is thoroughly saturated. Remove paint residue with a brush and acetone. It is better to protect the floor surface and other interior elements with rags, tape or paper to save time on cleaning the room.

Varnishing interior doors is easy. The process does not require deep knowledge in the painting field from a person. It is enough to arm yourself with tools, correctly choose building mixtures and paints and varnishes, and properly prepare the work surface. The advice of the masters will help to approach each stage more professionally.

No matter how carefully you treat the floor covering, over time, small scratches, cracks and chips appear on its surface. In such a situation, the laminate must be restored so that the coating again

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It became shiny and smooth, like many years ago. How can you update the old floor yourself? To do this, use various putties and repair kits, which will be discussed in this article.

What damage needs to be repaired?

It is possible to restore the laminate without replacing the lamellas only if there are minor defects, such as:

1. Small chips;
2. Minor cracks;
3. Scuffs on the coating;
4. Small gaps between the lamellas;
5. The dullness of the laminated coating.

In such situations, you can update the laminate in just one day and this will not require serious material costs. Let's look at each type of damage in more detail.

Elimination of small scratches

Often, after repair or rearrangement of furniture, scratches form on the coating, which spoil the appearance of the coating. You can mask defects and thereby update the laminate with the help of such devices:

• wax pencil;
• Polish.

To restore the coating, clean the damaged area from dirt and apply a wax product that matches the color. After that, use a special polish to protect the damaged area from moisture.

Repairing cracks and deep scratches

Old laminate flooring is more susceptible to damage as the protective layer of the coating becomes thinner as a result of use. Then quite deep scratches appear on the surface of the floor. However, in this situation, it is possible to restore the laminate with the help of such means:

• Putty for laminate;
• Spatula for filling cracks.

Special putties for restoration are sold in the form of powders and diluted with water, according to the instructions. Apply the product only on a scratch and only with a spatula. Putty should not be allowed to “crawl out” beyond the damage, since it is rather problematic to clean it.

Elimination of cracks

It is also possible to restore the laminate when gaps between the lamellas form, but only if they are insignificant. After repair, they are usually not visible, but to eliminate the defect, you need to use a special repair kit, or a composition made in a “handicraft” way.

Homemade composition includes:

• crushed chalk;
• Construction paint matching the color of the coating;
• Liquid glass;
• Wood sawdust.

In order for the putty to turn out to be of high quality, before connecting all the components, dilute the liquid glass with a little water. The finished composition should be thick enough. Only after that, all the cracks are smeared with a spatula, after which they are carefully cleaned with sandpaper. The restored floor must then be polished using a special wood care solution.

Elimination of scuffs and dullness

Sometimes it is necessary to update the laminate even if there are no significant defects on it. Over time, the floor loses its luster, and the coating itself becomes dull and unattractive. In such a situation, the laminate can be polished. For these purposes, the following means are used:

• Liquid polish;
• Polish on a viscous basis;
• Mastic.

You can properly polish the floor if you follow these rules:

1. Before applying the product, the coating must be cleaned of dirt and dried;
2. Sprays and viscous formulations are applied evenly to the entire surface of the floor;
3. For polishing use napkins made of natural soft fabric.

In the case of applying mastic, you can polish the coating with a cloth with a fine pile. The agent is applied to a napkin, after which the lamellas are polished in a circular motion. In this case, it is desirable to process the floor in small areas.

In the video, the process of polishing the laminate is considered in more detail, where the specialist talks about all the nuances of this process.

Conclusion

It is easy to update the outdated coverage with the help of affordable and effective means. Each of the methods discussed above allows you to keep the laminate in its original form even after 5-7 years of operation.

There is no such information anywhere else! Once you varnished a wooden chair or painted the front of your house with wood stain. Several years have passed, and it's time to renew the applied coating - how to do it?

We tried to tell you simply and clearly how to update the protective and decorative coatings for wood after a while. And if you are poorly versed in wood products and have difficulty distinguishing stain from impregnation,.

The service life of wooden structures treated with impregnations and other means

The first question that worries everyone even at the stage of buying the first set of products for a tree is how long its action will last.

It is practically impossible to answer it unambiguously and accurately: the service life always depends on strict adherence to the instructions. In addition, it is difficult to predict the operating conditions of your particular wooden structure.

Here it should be explained where the real, and not unfounded, guarantees of the durability of paint and varnish products come from. In order to be able to officially announce a certain period, the manufacturer must order an expensive and long-term study from an independent laboratory.

Laboratories cannot physically reproduce the impact on the treated wood of real atmospheric conditions, time and mechanical stresses, therefore the products are tested in the so-called artificial aging chambers, where the impacts are even harsher to the product than they would be in real conditions. Based on the results of the research, the manufacturer issues a test certificate. For example, a test report issued by an independent laboratory confirms the durability of the Belinka Base + Toplasur complex for 10 years, but it is likely that such a coating will last even longer in real conditions.

Be that as it may, studies of durability take a long time. So, it is not worth believing a brand that appeared on the market a year ago and claims a “25-year guarantee” is not worth it.

How to understand that it's time to renew a layer of varnish or impregnation

Of course, you will understand whether the time has come to repaint the tree by its appearance. Peeling, swelling, cracking of the surface are clear signs of the approaching repair time. Carefully inspect the surface: the coating film should be uniform everywhere, if this is not the case, a repair application will be required, possibly local.

Another way to identify the need for repairs is the drop method. By the way, this is the main method for diagnosing a surface treated with oils. The essence of the method is clearly seen in video "When is it necessary to renew coatings?".

Tinting and repainting: features of work

So, if violations and unevenness of the film of decorative and protective coatings are detected, it is worth starting repairs. It can be carried out both locally and over the entire surface.

1. Renewal of worn surface

First you need to carefully sand and clean the surface. Then an antiseptic primer is applied, and after drying according to the instructions, a decorative and protective coating is applied. Of course, it is desirable to update with the same compositions that were used earlier. Do not confuse water-based and alkyd coatings, and it is also important to select the appropriate primers for them.

Carefully study the instructions for using the product before starting work - it is always in the product card on the official website of the manufacturer.

2. The number of layers for "repair" painting

An important point: a high-quality film is obtained by applying thin layers. That is, if the instructions indicate 2 layers, then when repainting it is better to apply 3 layers, but thin ones.

Also keep in mind that the number of layers of glaze is limited by the visibility of the wood texture: when applying a large number of layers, the texture may become less visible and the color darker. In order to avoid excessive darkening of the surface, colored azures can be combined with transparent ones (on the street, azures marked with UF plus are used).

Drying time depends on the binder. For example, Belinka alkyd coatings (Lasur and Toplasur) dry due to oxygen in the air, this may take additional time: from 6 hours to several days. But water-dispersion coatings of the same brand (Exterier and Interier) dry due to water evaporation, i.e. the process is very short: 3-4 hours. As for oils, the long drying time - about 24 hours - is even an indicator of their true naturalness and, accordingly, quality, since oils to which drying-promoting components are added can no longer be considered natural.

4. Life hack from Belinka: how to achieve maximum durability of the coating

Let's share a secret: for maximum durability, we recommend updating the coating a year after the first application. The fact is that the tool must “get used” to the surface, take on the load in winter conditions as well. With temperature fluctuations, microcracks appear on any wooden surface treated with protective agents, which are not visually visible. They must be eliminated by re-applying a thin layer of decorative and protective coating.

Facades treated with oil should be inspected once a year. Wood oils, if they are truly natural, tend to wash out and require maintenance. But the beauty of the oiled surface is worth it.

Take care of the tree!

High-quality European products reliably protect the tree. But remember that no material will protect the wooden surface from scratches, mechanical stress and vandalism. Take good care of your wood and it will last you for years to come!

Do you have any questions? Ask them in the comments or in the "Ask a Question" section on the website http://www.belinka.ru