Based on our own experience in the manufacture of countertops, we can say that. Do-it-yourself tile kitchen worktop (39 photos): step-by-step instructions How to finish the worktop with ceramic tiles

To create an original kitchen interior, use tile for the countertop and backsplash. She is able to transform the headset. One of the advantages is the ability to do the work yourself.

Original decor solution

Role

kitchen worktop- this is the main place where you prepare food, it is constantly exposed to various kinds influences: mechanical, chemical, temperature, etc. It is important to provide a material that will withstand endless cleanings, impacts of dishes, drops of water, grease and other substances. Some housewives prefer to cut food directly on working surface, without use cutting board, so make sure that it does not leave scratches from the knife.

All this must be taken into account if you decide to make a do-it-yourself tile countertop. However, do not forget that in addition to functional properties, the work surface also has a decorative purpose. Thanks to her, the kitchen takes on a complete look. With the help of a tabletop, you can completely change the style of the headset.

It is important to follow the rules for combining the material, its color and texture.

Interior solution in the kitchen

Advantages and disadvantages

Tiled countertop has a number of advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

• practicality;
• aesthetics;
• the ability to create a pattern and combine elements different shades on one surface
• relatively not high price;
• no harmful impurities;
• fast installation;
• when selecting quality material will last a long time;
• good tiles are not afraid of moisture, exposure to high temperatures and changes in these indicators;
• damaged element can be replaced with a new one.

So that the countertop does not crack, the tile for it must be of high quality.

The disadvantages include the following indicators:

• point impacts will damage the surface;
• high probability of chipping at the edges;
• dirt is clogged into the seams, which reduces the hygiene indicator;
• when cleaning, do not use abrasive materials;
• over time and improper care the aesthetic characteristics of the surface are reduced.

How to choose material

Service life and decorative indicators depend on the tile. What should you pay attention to first of all? Of course, this specifications tiles. For operating conditions in the kitchen, as a coating for a working surface, it must be impact-resistant, not be afraid of temperature changes, exposure to alkalis, acids and various kinds of pollution, and absorb moisture to a minimum.

If you choose a specific material, it is better to stay on porcelain stoneware. It has superior strength and unique properties wear resistance. A simple tile will last less.

In addition, pay attention to the type of surface. For the kitchen, it is better to choose smooth semi-matt materials. Firstly, the dirt will not clog into the pores, and scratches are noticeable, and secondly, such a tile looks attractive.

Choose a tile color that matches the furniture and surroundings. The standard solution is to buy the same tiles for the countertop and backsplash.

And finally, pay attention to the size of the elements and their shape. It can be a large square, rectangular ceramic tile or a small mosaic. Large parts are good because the number of seams is minimized. Small samples look perfect in small kitchen. The traditional solution will become 15x15 squares. For the edge, pick up a rectangular frieze.

Foundation preparation

Before you make a ceramic tile countertop, you need to level the surface. To do this, use dense plywood or OSB-plates. To provide desired thickness several sheets are glued together.

An important condition is waterproofing. The material is treated with antiseptic and water-repellent impregnation.

After complete drying, it is recommended to make small notches on top of the last layer and fix the plaster mesh.

Tiles are laid on a perfectly flat surface

To fit the sheets right size and form using a jigsaw. Small allowances are made along the edges, but keep in mind that after facing, a couple more centimeters will be added. It is best to fix the base with self-tapping screws.

Another nuance: the weight of such a countertop in the finished version is considerable, so we strengthen the furniture. Add perimeter legs or support bars.

Facing

Step-by-step instruction:

1. Make a cement mortar, set up beacons, reinforce the ends with metal profiles.
2. Apply the mixture to the surface and smooth with a spatula. Leave to dry for a day or two.
3. On a prepared perfectly even base, make a markup that you will be guided by in the process of laying the tiles.
4. Break up the glue. Lay several control fragments according to the markup.
5. Apply a small amount to the base and smooth with a notched trowel. Start laying out the tiles from the far corner.
6. If you need to cut an element, make a small mark on the tile and use a grinder or tile cutter.
7. The last stage is end processing. It can be tiled with the same tiles as the horizontal surface or with a specially purchased frieze.

When performing work, pay attention to the ends

Final finishing

After the tile kitchen worktop dries, take care of the seams. Even if the laying was carried out end-to-end, it is still necessary to process the gaps so that water and dirt do not penetrate into them. Usually use tile grout. It is better to match it to the color of the coating in order to create a feeling of surface integrity. Apply with a small rubber spatula.

Epoxy can be used to protect against moisture penetration. It also prevents the growth of bacteria.

After finishing the finish, remove the remnants of the mortar, grout and rub the tile to a shine.

So that the tile countertop lasts as long as possible and at the same time retains original view take good care of her.

• wipe the surface with a soft sponge so that no scratches remain;
• give preference to gels, not powders;
• in the care of glossy tiles, use glass spray;
• clean the seams regularly.

For cladding in this case a large format tile was chosen - 18 × 24 cm. Smaller parts were cut out of it, used in the end part of the table top and on the wall.

• We make the base of the countertop from chipboard, and we will lay tiles on it. wall tiles we also lay it on a side made of chipboard, replacing the kitchen apron.
• Before laying in the countertop, we cut a hole for the sink. The edges are treated with a composition that prevents the penetration of moisture.

• We cover the chipboard surface with a primer.
• Using a notched trowel, apply tile adhesive to the primed surface of the countertop and side. The sections of the wall bordering the side are pre-covered with masking tape.
• We apply the tile without applying glue to the base covered with adhesive, and fix it by slightly pressing it with our hands.

• First we lay out the wall part ( kitchen apron). Then we proceed to finish the top of the countertop. We start laying from the center. The edge adjacent to the wall is closed with a segment cut from the main tile.

Particular difficulty at this stage of finishing can be caused by curly cutting of tiles to the size of the kitchen sink.

Curly cutting of ceramic tiles

• With a felt-tip pen on the tile, draw a line along which we will “bite”. In order not to spoil the top layer of enamel, we seal the surface of the tile with masking tape.
• We “bite off” the tile in small pieces, gradually moving towards the intended line. We try to install the clamps parallel to it. To control the cut, position the wire cutters so that only part of the entire surface of the clips is in contact with the mark. Otherwise, the tile pieces will turn out to be larger than necessary, and cracks will form around the place where the tool clamps are located.

Don't try to make the right cut with one broken piece. Cut gradually, working in the direction from the edge to the center.

• Even with all the precautions, the nipper teeth often leave a rather jagged edge. To level it, use a file or sandpaper- Gently rub the surface.

Grouting

After, as the entire necessary surface was covered with tiles, we proceed to the grouting.

• The process begins with the removal of residual tile adhesive. Even during laying, we remove the glue, preventing it from drying out. Wet the places where the glue is still dry.
• For cleaning, we use a hard foam rubber sponge and wooden sticks. Don't peel off the glue metal tool- it can damage the surface of the tile itself: chip off the enamel.
• If the adhesive is not removed, it will show through the grout. Especially if the grout is light and even more transparent.
• We clean and wash the tiles from the remnants of concrete.
• Now we prepare the grout according to the instructions. Most often this happens like this: in a clean container we breed grout mixture. We add dry grout. We add water. Actions can be performed in any order. The main thing is to achieve the required density: the grout should be "thicker than sour cream, thinner than cottage cheese."

Do not immediately prepare the entire volume of grout - after 20 minutes the mixture hardens. Therefore, it is better to mix in parts.

• We apply the finished grout with a rubber spatula, trying to fill all the seams completely: without gaps and gaps.
  Do not be afraid to stain the tile itself - at the end of the work we clean it.
• We also remove excess grout with a rubber spatula. We use it to fill other seams.
• Having filled all the seams, we wipe them with a foam rubber sponge (along the seam), which we rinse and squeeze well as often as possible. At this stage, the final shape of the seam is formed.
• After 2 hours after finishing the work, wipe the tiles and seams with a dry cloth. This process is very dusty and requires a respirator to work.

The advantages of a tiled countertop are undeniable! Since not everyone can afford a countertop made of natural or artificial marble, let's focus on the manufacture and tiling of the countertop with tiles.

The tiled countertop will look great in the kitchen - as a work surface, in the bathroom - in combination with the tiled walls and our beautiful new sink. Tiles can lay out the table top on the table, window sill and so on. But if coffee table or a nightstand can be faced without much difficulty, then the countertop in the kitchen or bathroom will be exposed to moisture, high temperatures, chemicals included in detergents.
Stages of tiling countertops
Let's divide the work into several stages.
Decision-making
It's still the easiest step. I would like to note that the tiles laid out on the countertop should be in harmony with the backsplash in the kitchen and the tiles laid out either on the walls or on the floor in the bathroom. Therefore, it is better to immediately decide on the main tile.
Tile selection
Definitely, in the kitchen - this is porcelain stoneware. Mainly because of its durability and practicality. In terms of strength, porcelain stoneware is not inferior to natural stone. Porcelain stoneware distinguishes one of the most high performance in terms of wear resistance, low water absorption - about 0.05%, high resistance to oils, fats, alkaline and acidic reagents that are part of modern detergents.

The only thing to consider when choosing porcelain stoneware for the kitchen is the type of surface. Embossed or textured surface: subsequently, dirt may accumulate and the surface may be difficult to clean. Polished and semi-polished, it seems to me, will not cause any problems. Although you need to choose what is more cute. I will not specifically dwell on the mosaic, since this is a separate topic, and we will definitely consider it in the near future. I will say one thing: there are many types of porcelain stoneware imitating mosaics or small tiles (7 × 7; 10 × 10). In the absence of experience with tiles or mosaics, these options seem to be the best if you really want to get a mosaic countertop. This is especially true in kitchens. small size. If the kitchen is large or medium, it is quite possible to tile the countertop and backsplash with 30 × 30 or large tiles (up to a giant 60 × 60). A countertop lined with the same material will look very original. working area kitchen and countertop "island" or kitchen table.
For the countertop in the bathroom, you can use the usual facing tiles, which lined the walls, or floor.
So, we decided on the choice of the type of tile, roughly outlined, so far only in our thoughts, a plan. We can safely go shopping and look for tiles to our liking. A little later, we will decide on the number of tiles that we need to buy and all related materials.
Making a base for a future countertop
Below we will consider three ways to make a base for a tile countertop. Each of them has the right to life.

We take three sections of cabinet furniture as a basis:
cabinet for sink size 500×560×820
work cabinet with drawers 500X560X820
working two-door pedestal size 600X560X820
The cabinets will be lined up.
The length of the section will be 1600 mm, width - 560 mm.
For work we need
Angle grinder (cutting machine) with a disc for tiles (for dry cutting)
rasp - for processing the edges of cut tiles
spatula wide - 60 cm
spatula 12 cm
high strength tile adhesive
crosses for tiles 2.5-3 mm
rag
silicone sealant
protective compound for wood
primer or latex
glue for wood
liquid glass + quartz sand or waterproofing compound
jigsaw
stainless steel screws 3.5-3.8 cm within 200-400 pieces
felt-tip pen
pencil
electric drill
mixer
wood drill 5-6 mm
mortar bucket
The rest - in the course of work.
For the base of the countertop, we need two sheets of plywood 1500X1500X20 of the FSF or FB brand from softwood.
FSF - waterproof plywood glued with phenolic resin. Moisture resistant plywood can be used outdoors.
FB - bakelite waterproof plywood (impregnated with bakelite varnish). This moisture resistant plywood can be used in hot humid climates and even sea water.
We will fasten the plywood with at least two layers of overlapping cuts. Beforehand, all parts of the cut plywood are properly treated with impregnation (at least 2 times) and moisture protective composition for wood or bituminous mastic. We cut plywood taking into account the fact that the fibers must go along the section in all layers. On all sides, plywood should protrude 3-5 cm from the walls of the section. The joints of the plywood strips should not fall into the hole that we will cut out under the sink and, preferably, should overlap the cases at the place of their joining.

We cut plywood approximately as shown in the figure, using a jigsaw. We first measure the inner diameter of the sink and cut a hole under it on both layers of plywood, adjusting cross braces sink cabinets.
All parts of the structure are treated with moisture-proof impregnation for wood. I do not mention a specific brand, since each region has its own manufacturers. We process the edges of all parts of plywood with a brush especially carefully. I repeat: all the edges of the plywood, including the saw cuts and holes for the sink! This is very important, since moisture, which can subsequently get into unprotected places of plywood, can cause delamination with all the ensuing consequences.
The kitchen section at the time of fixing the plywood sheets must be level; the bodies are tied together with special ties.
Our design will turn out to be quite heavy, so do not skimp on the legs for the cases.
We close the kitchen section securely plastic wrap to avoid damage to facades and other parts. If we have a stove (gas or electric) next to the section, then we should calculate the height of its location based on the height of our countertop (820 mm), adding to it the height adjustable legs(40 mm, two layers of plywood), the thickness of the tile backing layer (10 mm) and the thickness of the tile with adhesive backing (10 mm). Total: 880 mm. Thus, if necessary, we check the possibility of setting the stove to this level.
I summarize: we have cut parts of plywood for two layers of the future tabletop, the plywood is carefully impregnated with a protective compound, dried and processed liquid waterproofing. With special attention we approached the processing of the side edges, both in the places of cutting, and along the entire perimeter of the sheets. Thus, we are sure that moisture, which can accidentally get on the plywood, will not cause delamination.
We fasten the first layer of plywood especially securely. Our structure must be immovable. We select stainless steel screws, 3.5-3.8 cm long. In the side ties of furniture cases from below, we attract the first layer of plywood, 3-4 self-tapping screws on each side. Side walls(in the diagram they are highlighted in red) we attract to the first layer of the countertop using metal corners self-tapping screws 1.5-1.8 cm.
Apply wood glue to the top layer of plywood. It can be wood glue (not a very good option), moisture resistant PVA (Profi), or more expensive brands of wood adhesives. There is only one requirement for glue - moisture resistance. The glue is applied to the surface in a zigzag manner, the second layer of plywood is pressed and attracted by self-tapping screws. To prevent the caps from sticking out, it is first necessary to countersink the places where the screws are attached with a drill. We place self-tapping screws along the perimeter of the sheets with a step of 15 cm, as well as deep into the sheets with the same step. We fasten a strip of plywood 4 cm wide with self-tapping screws to the edges that will be lined. We cut the top layer of plywood using any disk on the angle grinder (the depth of the notches is 5-7 mm).
Using a stapler, we attach a paint mesh to the upper side of the second layer of plywood with a cell pitch of 0.5-2 cm. The mesh must be stretched and fixed evenly and firmly.
The edges of plywood can be additionally glued with masking tape (not to be confused with masking tape), burlap and smear tile adhesive with post-processing liquid glass or coated waterproofing. We pass the joints between the table top and the wall with silicone sealant or coated waterproofing.

In principle, the countertop is ready for facing with porcelain stoneware. We just have to carefully process it waterproofing compound: can choose ready-made version or prefer the composition “liquid glass + latex + water + fine sand” (the recipe is given in the article “Technology for laying tiles on a wooden floor”), dry and revet. This is the first option mentioned above.
However, we will go further. We will make an additional contact surface for cladding.
Let's consider two options:
the tile is laid on a moisture-resistant gypsum-fiber sheet (GVL V) or on DSP sheet(more reliable way)
the tile is laid on a cement layer, which, of course, will ensure the reliability and durability of our construction. Production of a contact layer for tiles
The first option is quite simple. The cut-out sheet of GVLV or TsSP with cuttings for washing is processed from the inside with a primer. A layer of tile adhesive (the one we purchased for tiles) is applied to the top layer of plywood with a notched trowel. GVL sheet or DSP is laid on a layer, upset with a mallet and fastened with self-tapping screws to the top layer of plywood. The joints between the wall and the contact layer are treated with silicone sealant. A GVL or DSP strip is attached to the outer side edges with self-tapping screws. The joints between the strip and the side edge are filled with silicone sealant, or smeared with tile adhesive, and then smeared with liquid glass. On the surface that will be directly lined, it is necessary to fix the masking net and cover it with a waterproofing compound. Here all layers of the countertop and side edges are already processed.
That's all, after drying, the surface is ready for cladding.
Hand on heart, I’ll say that all my working practice as a tiler, I did exactly that tabletops.
However, while collecting material for this article, I stumbled upon a completely new (for me, anyway) technology, which turned out to be “good old technology”. Moreover, in the West, where tile countertops are in vogue, she received well-deserved recognition.
So, the second option. We have two layers of plywood glued together and securely fastened to the kitchen section. Side edges finished waterproofing composition, a paint grid is fixed on the surface, on top of which everything is treated with a waterproofing compound.
Set up beacons. We need to make a cement cushion 1-1.5 cm high. For beacons, we will use slats 1.5 × 3 cm. We install and fix the first rail to the side edge of the tabletop so that it rises 1.5 cm above the plywood surface. its strictly in level, maintaining the horizontal. Reiki will be subsequently removed. So no need to mount them. large quantity self-tapping screws, 2-3 pieces are enough. We fix the second rail flat along the surface. We check the level horizontal line between the first and second lighthouse rails. Next, we expose the beacon rails on the sides of the table top. We put them as the first, fasten with screws. As beacons, you can also use gypsum profiles and racks.

In place, she drank under the sink to a piece of plywood, which remained as a result of drinking with reverse side, fasten two rails. It is inserted into the hole under the sink and fastened with self-tapping screws, which are screwed into the plywood through the slats.
Now we prepare the solution. What to choose as a cement pad for our countertop? These can be tile adhesive, factory-made cement-sand mortar (since dry fractionated sand is used in its manufacture), cement-sand mortar with the addition of some glue (for more convenient work). The only thing I would like to advise: when mixing the solution into water, add 1 part of latex to 2-3 parts of water. We get a very durable and practically waterproof coating.

The resulting solution is applied with a trowel and leveled with a spatula 60 cm across installed beacons. When the mortar begins to set, we unscrew the slats, having previously cut the contours along the sink hole with a spatula, and take out a piece of plywood along with part of the mortar. We trim the edges. The surface is smoothed with a spatula or a metal trowel. In order to get more flat surface You can slightly moisten it with a spray bottle. After the mortar has set (approximately 4-6 hours for cement-sand mixture, 12 hours - when using tile adhesive) remove the beacon rails. We putty the edge with a solution and add the solution to the location of our beacons. We level it with the main mortar layer, smooth it down. We leave our countertop for 2-3 days. At this time, you can start buying tiles and related materials.
Laying tiles
We will consider a simple cladding option: direct masonry, seam to seam.
We take a 10 × 10 cm tile as a basis. This is not the easiest of options, but we are not afraid of difficulties, are we?
The next step in our work will be marking the countertops for cladding. We measure the width of the countertop from two edges. If we did everything right, then we should get 61 cm. We mark two middle points (30.5 cm) along the edges and connect them with a line. We get a line in the center of the tabletop. In the same way, we mark the center in width: 160 + 2 × 5 (our tolerance at the edges) \u003d 170: 2 \u003d 85 cm. Similarly, set aside two points and connect them with a line.

As a result, we get two perpendicular lines running in the center of our countertop. They will serve as a guideline for further work on the cladding.
Our next steps
We attach the slats to the bottom of the tabletop, which we used as beacons. They will serve as a support for facing the ends of the countertop. To the end part of the tabletop, we fix the angular outer profile on the screws. We carefully prime the cement layer, wait for the primer to dry.
Dilute the glue, according to the instructions. A primer can be added to the mixing water to ensure strength (1 part primer to 3 parts water).
Facing is carried out from the “red corner”, i.e. from those sides that will be in sight. We will start from the outer sides of the countertop, which we will veneer with full-length tiles. With a notched trowel, apply a layer of glue to the cement layer.
Lay the first tile on the corner of the countertop. Next, lay out the first rows, observing the angle
90°, checking the outer line with a spirit level. Also, do not forget to check the horizontal plane in all rows using a level. The inner sides of the tile should be at the same distance from the lines we beat off.

A little nuance to think about before we start laying out the first rows: how will we veneer the end parts of our countertop? There are several solutions to this problem. Let's consider one of them. The tile is displayed approximately one centimeter. The trimmed end tile or decorative border is glued at a right angle, factory side up. The size of the seam is regulated by crosses and subsequently filled with grout. The underside of the trim is hidden in profile. This is the easiest way to finish the end of a countertop. To simplify the work, laying the first row, immediately expose the end tiles. We observe the seams in the same way as on the main masonry. You can replace the end trim with a border. You can bring the end tile up and attach the main masonry to it. It's already the way you like it.

It is possible to mount an external corner by applying an external corner tile profile. In this case, I advise you to start it under the top tile.
Another option is to cut the tiles at a 45° angle. Please note that this is a rather difficult job and, without special skills and additional equipment, it is better to do with the two methods described above. If you decide to file, do not forget to grind the edges so that they are not sharp. It is possible to finish the end face of the countertop with shaped tiles or ceramic plinth. I'm not afraid to repeat myself: here everyone is a creator and artist for himself.

Further installation should not cause any special difficulties. We lay the tiles in rows - it is best to lead "long" rows. Do not forget to insert crosses into the seams and remove excess mortar. We control the plane: when applying the level, there should be no gaps between it and the tile.
Sawing tiles under the sink, you can allow an error within 0.5 cm. The most important thing is
the sink must rest on the lined surface over the entire plane. Note that porcelain stoneware is quite easy to cut with a lever tile cutter and very hard - with an angle grinder with a diamond blade. In the case of sawing the tiles under the hole for the sink, it is possible to make a template from cardboard and further marking - on it. For more information on how to lay tiles, see the article “Tile. Do-it-yourself apron in the kitchen.
So, we place the trimmed tiles near the walls and adjacent the countertop to the refrigerator, cabinets, stove, etc. In the future, these joints can be closed with a plinth, having previously smeared the seams with silicone sealant.
We overwrite the seams
Let's take a closer look at this stage of work. Our countertop, as we said above, will be subject to extreme loads - moisture, grease, chemicals of detergents and cleaning agents. That is why the filling of the seams must be approached very carefully. Ordinary tile grout just won't work here. The fact is that the limestone filler is afraid of acids. Recall an experience from a chemistry course high school: When a drop of vinegar was applied to a piece of chalk, the limestone reacted.
Most suitable materials for these purposes - grouts based on epoxy resin. They are resistant to chlorinated water, oils, fats and acids, as well as high temperatures.
The materials of this group are quite widely represented by Western and domestic producers. These are usually two-component formulations consisting of a modified epoxy resin (component 1) and fillers, pigments and a hardener (component 2).
The preparation of the material consists of mechanical (preferably with a low-speed mixer) mixing of the two components. When choosing a grout composition, it is necessary to pay attention to the recommended joint width. Often, epoxy grouts are recommended for wide (from 8 mm) joints. In our case, compositions for a seam width of 2-12 mm are suitable. I’ll make a reservation right away that working with epoxy grouts is quite difficult, since the mass turns out to be thick, and it’s not very convenient to apply it in the usual way, rubbing a rubber or plastic spatula into the tile joints.
Moreover, it is necessary to remove the remnants of epoxy grout from the tile in time, otherwise it will be impossible to do it later.
One way to make grouting easier is to protect the tile with masking tape, leaving the grouts cleaned, and use a syringe to grout the grouts. The cylinder is filled with a grout, the necessary nozzle is put on the syringe. After that, the grout is squeezed into the seam. The surface of the seam is formed with a piece of a bent electrical cable, or with the back of a rubber spatula. Next, the protective tape is removed. According to the instructions, after 30-60 minutes, the remains of the grout are soaked with water to an emulsion state, after which they are washed off with a damp sponge. The sponge is often washed in clean water. After another 2-3 hours, the entire surface of the tile is washed clean.
An alternative to epoxy grout is a combined epoxy-cement grout. It is more easy to use. The disadvantage of this material: a limited choice of colors.
Please note that epoxy and cement-epoxy materials are distinguished by a high cost. Packing 2-2.5 kg will cost you from 1500 rubles.
Another option for grouting can be cement-based grouts designed for floors. In these grouts, the soft limestone aggregate is replaced by finely dispersed quartz. That is, the material itself is resistant to chemical reagents and has increased resistance to abrasion. After applying such a grout, after three days it is necessary to treat the seams with a strengthening water-repellent composition twice, with an interval of 12-24 hours. It is best to use a watercolor brush for these purposes. The glaze of the tile is sealed with masking tape. The resulting seams will be resistant to all surprises.
We pass the seam between the wall and the countertop tile with silicone sealant.

If we decide to veneer an apron, the work procedure is described in detail in the article “Tile. Do-it-yourself apron in the kitchen. The only thing is that it would be better to grout the countertop tiles together with the grout of the apron. The seam between the vertical and horizontal cladding is filled according to the technology described above. Available with ceramic or plastic plinth. The seams of the apron can be rubbed with the same composition, or you can use the usual, cheaper grout.
When installing the sink in place, do not forget to coat the joint with silicone sealant.
Having shown ingenuity, we can turn the old kitchen furniture into a masterpiece. Part of the facades can also be tiled. Just needs to be fixed drywall sheet or the remains of our GVL to the facade. It won't take much work. It is enough to make a tile countertop and replace the facades. By the same principle, you can make a countertop in the bathroom, veneer a table in a room, in the country. Even according to the most conservative estimates, the savings (in comparison with the cost of buying and installing countertops made of natural or artificial stone) will be - at least 2 times.

The kitchen is a place that receives a lot of attention as it plays an important role in the life of every family. Its design and functionality are all taken care of with the utmost care.

One of the most important functional elements of the kitchen is the work surface. But, in addition to functionality, the work surface plays an important role in the design of the kitchen, creating its image and style. Depending on the size of the room and design, the work surface may have different shape and be made from different materials.

There are two ways to organize a work surface: buy a ready-made countertop or make a wonderful ceramic tile kitchen countertop with your own hands.

Finished countertops are made from the following materials:

From chipboard with plastic coating (postforming);

From artificial stone;

From natural stone.

Ceramic tile worktop

As an alternative to store-bought countertops, you can make your own worktop.

Work surface as a functional element of the kitchen

Work surface, countertop, can be separate element kitchens. She herself can independently, regardless of the presence of other furniture, fully fulfill its purpose.

The tabletop can also be presented as the top furniture cabinets. Most often in practice, we meet exactly the second option - this is our traditional cuisines in which the top cover of the cabinets is also a work surface.

Characteristics of work surfaces made of ceramic tiles

The decision to make a ceramic tile work surface can be made for various reasons:

Design decision;

Doesn't fit standard countertops

The need to use existing building materials;

Opportunity to exercise your creativity.

The result is an individual product that will fully comply with the wishes of the owner.

Countertops with a ceramic tile surface have the following qualities:

Durable, wear and moisture resistant;

Easy to maintain, easy to clean;

It is easy to choose the color and pattern that suits the design;

Affordable cost;

Durability;

Possibility to use unformatted or cut tiles to create a mosaic.

The tile work surface can be given the desired shape and size, which is easy to fit even in non-standard or small rooms.

Ergonomics - work surface height

When choosing a kitchen, the question arises of what should be the height of the kitchen countertop.

Working surface height - important point to create comfortable conditions

The convenience and well-being of the hostess who will work in the kitchen depends on the height of its placement. The kitchen is not only an object of design, but also an object of ergonomics, because it can be considered as a workplace.

For different types work in the kitchen: washing dishes, cutting food, kneading dough, cooking, it turns out to be necessary different height working surface. This is important so that work in the kitchen is less tiring and does not bring discomfort, because the greatest load and fatigue in a person occurs when working while standing. And in order for cooking and table setting to be as comfortable as possible, you need to take care of the correct height of the working surface.

A suitable tabletop height can be determined by the following method: while standing, bend your arm at the elbow, the comfort zone for working will be within 15 centimeters below elbow level

In the area where the sink is located, the height should be the largest. Optimally, this is a height of 85-95 cm, for tall people maybe 100 cm. This washing height promotes correct body position, helps you work with a straight back and keep your arms bent at the elbows at a right angle. In this position, it is much more comfortable to work and not get tired. And washing food and dishes, if not dishwasher takes up almost half of the time spent in the kitchen. For cooking and frying, the height of the stove is 80-85 cm.

The order of work on the manufacture of tile countertops with your own hands

First, a tabletop drawing is made. Its main dimensions and configuration are determined. The places where the tie-ins for the sink and hob will be located are marked.

Frame installation, materials

We determine the height relative to the floor, beat off the horizontal level.

Horizontal mounting plate

A mounting plate is installed on it. The frame is mounted in accordance with the plan.

Metal frame for freestanding worktop

Tile layout

Seams between tiles can be sealed with silicone sealant

The work surface can function as an independent element

The frame of the tabletop can be metal or wood.

Wooden frame and base for plasterboard tiles

The basis for laying tiles can be OSB-board, gypsum-fiber board or moisture-resistant drywall.

You can also use as a base laminated chipboard or an old countertop. In this case, the surface must be carefully rubbed with a knife and degreased.

Laying tiles

Tiles are laid with tile adhesive. The tiles can also be laid on adhesive for floor coverings or liquid nails.

Angled tile layout

The layout of the tiles must be done in advance. It is better to choose such tile sizes and distances between kitchen equipment so that the tile does not need to be cut. For standard size kitchen worktops good suitable tile 60x60 cm. Then you can get an almost seamless surface that will imitate a stone. But you can make a countertop from any size of tile, it depends on the design.

First, solid tiles were laid out on the plane. Then tiles with pruning will be laid out

Before gluing, the tiles must be laid out on the surface, taking into account the necessary seams and gaps to make sure that they are laid out as needed. It is better to start laying tiles on a straight surface from the center. If the work surface is angular, then it is better to start from the corner.

The top of the kitchen table is under constant destructive action. high humidity and various contaminants. After prolonged use, it can not only look aesthetically unattractive, but also become a source of germs. Therefore, the material used for the manufacture of the table top must be strong enough, environmentally friendly, and also fireproof. The tile countertop is good in operation and looks great, which every zealous owner can assemble with his own hands. In addition, unlike natural stone, it is affordable and easy to work with.

Choice of materials and tools

When choosing a tile for the table top, opt for porcelain stoneware or tiles (ceramic tiles). Both materials have a number of useful consumer properties that allow us to successfully apply them for our purpose. In particular, porcelain stoneware, when laid according to the rules, will please:

• high strength;
• long service life;
• very low water absorption;
• environmental friendliness, resistance to fats, various acids, other contaminants;
• ease of cleaning.

The fundamental difference for the consumer is the amount of water absorption (for tiles ~ 10%, for porcelain stoneware ~ 0.05%), the weight of the material (porcelain stoneware is heavier), the price (porcelain stoneware is more expensive). As you can see, porcelain stoneware is more resistant to moisture, however, when using it, due to the large weight load, it will be necessary to fulfill the mandatory extra work to strengthen the kitchen. In addition, please note that processing this material is quite difficult.

Homemade table with tiles will last for decades, retaining the original appearance, he is not afraid of the ultimate load of heavy and wet dishes, however, please note that the textured surface quickly accumulates dirt. Therefore, polished or semi-polished tiles are better suited for kitchen worktops. If the style of the room design requires the use of relief surface stock up on a special brush to remove dirt.

The work will be argued if at hand are:

• trowel;
• tile cutter;
• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• self-tapping screws 4-6 cm;
• a simple spatula;
• notched trowel;
• building level;
• small rubber spatula;
• moisture resistant tile adhesive;
• epoxy tile grout;
• silicone sealant with antifungal composition.

What do we put under the tiles

Except tiles home master you will need plywood, which will be used as the basis for the countertop. Stop your choice on the FSF or FB brands. In the first case, the veneer layers are glued together with phenol-formaldehyde resin, in the second case, they are impregnated with bakelite varnish and only then glued together. Plywood of the FSF brand has increased moisture resistance, is durable, easy to process, is used for outdoor and interior decoration, in frame construction, in the automotive industry, in the manufacture of advertising products. However, the most durable and water-resistant is the FB brand plywood sheet, which is why it is used, in particular, in shipbuilding. But no matter how good the recommended material is, it is still necessary to stock up on moisture-proof impregnation for wood.

Thin sheets of chipboard (2-6 mm) can also serve as the basis for the upper part of the kitchen table.

A standard plywood sheet is divided into 2 pieces to obtain 2 layers of base for tiles. The number of sheets used depends on the size of the countertop being made, most often the purchase of 1 or 2 pieces is required. To cut and install plywood, you will need a jigsaw, a hacksaw, screws with a screwdriver and a hammer. Cut a sheet of such a size that it hangs over the cabinet frontally by 1 cm, at the ends - by 2 cm. The treatment with a moisture-proof agent along the edges and in the place of the cutout for the sink should be done very carefully.

The best option is the manufacture of a stationary table top. However, sometimes it is required to make the table top movable. In this case, it is installed on 4 legs 3-5 cm long or wheels with a stopper.

Installation process: preparatory operations

If the kitchen worktop is made of porcelain stoneware, be sure to pre-strengthen kitchen set additional legs, evenly distributed along the edges. Such an operation will not be superfluous in the case of using tiles, because an unplanned load on the furniture is still present.

When a common countertop is laid on several pedestals, it is very important to securely fasten them together in advance. Becoming a semblance of a single piece, the connected elements of the headset will avoid potential curvature horizontal surface.

The installation of the first plywood sheet is carried out with stainless steel self-tapping screws to the pedestal, their hats should not peek out of the material. Then moisture-resistant glue for wood is applied and a second plywood sheet is laid, additionally fastened with the first same self-tapping screws around the perimeter in increments of 15-20 cm. The fastener caps must be recessed and covered, like plywood, with moisture-proof impregnation.

Getting started with applying a trowel cement mortar distributing it evenly over the entire surface plywood sheet. There should be no circular or diagonal movements, only strictly even, straight lines (left-right).

For maximum better application mortar, we install beacons, which are removed after the cement dries. In the holes left from them, we also fill the solution, leveling the surface to perfect condition.

To avoid the formation of dust and other inconveniences associated with working with cement, you can use ready mixes, now available in abundance at an affordable price.

Before applying the cement mortar, the working surface is fenced with thin slats with a section of 2x2 cm, which are removed after the end of this operation. The specified formwork is attached to the base with small nails. After the cement has completely set, the formwork is removed, and the places of its fastening are filled with mortar.

Mounting: main action

The most crucial moment has come for making a table cover for the kitchen with your own hands - laying tiles. If there are doubts about the ability to do this smoothly and accurately, entrust the operation to professionals, because it will be impossible to correct the flaws.

Having decided, lay the tiles yourself in a simple way- seam to seam. Before that, draw a few lines along the width of the tile along the working surface to break it into squares with perpendicular lines for clarity.

Laying tiles on adhesive solution(prepared according to the manufacturer's instructions) starts from the most prominent corner. For even spreading of the adhesive cement screed use a notched trowel. The tiles are laid one after the other, tightly pressed against each other, after which the edges of the countertop should be processed.

It is convenient to keep even gaps between tiles using special crosses.

If a last tile does not fit in the remaining gap, the necessary piece is cut off with a tile cutter, a special tool for straight and curly cutting. In its absence, you can try to do it on your own. The tile is cut from the inside, having previously measured the cut line. At the same time, adhesive tape is glued on the outside along the cut line, the task of which is to prevent the appearance of chips and cracks. The cut edges are cleaned with a file or large sandpaper.

At the ends, the countertop is lined with tile cuts, starting from the bottom. The row below is fixed with masking tape after laying. in the following way: the strip is glued horizontally along the width of the row, extending to the sides. Such an operation does not allow the newly laid tile to move down.

Grouting

No matter how much you want to make a perfect do-it-yourself tile countertop for the kitchen, it will not work right away. Another finishing operation is to be performed, for which you will need a grout, preferably with an epoxy base, which makes it resistant not only to fats, but also to temperature extremes. When performing this work, a small rubber spatula is useful, which does not harm ceramic tiles. The seams are filled with all diligence, without voids. Excess grout should be washed off with a damp sponge.

The remains of the dried glue should be well wetted with water and wait 5 minutes, after which it can be easily removed without the use of a special tool.

The grout is diluted in portions to the consistency of sour cream. Do not mix the entire composition at once, otherwise you will not have time to use it before drying. Dilute as much grout as required for the area.

Grout, glue and cement completely harden in about a day. During this period, it is advisable not to use the countertop.