What is the best coating for epoxy? Applying the finish coat Using the bath after applying the epoxy varnish.

For quick and high-quality finishing of any surface, paint is most often used. But in the case when it is necessary to preserve the natural texture of wood, a transparent epoxy varnish is used. It enhances beauty and protects the surface from environmental influences.

Lacquer Features

The substance is a solution of epoxy resin, which is diluted in a certain proportion with organic solvents. Such a varnish is a two-component one, that is, it must be mixed with a hardener before use.

Advantages

This type of finishing materials has excellent performance in almost all technical parameters. In addition to an affordable price, this varnish has the following advantages:

• high resistance to moisture;
• excellent mechanical strength;
• excellent level of gloss;
• harmlessness.

disadvantages

Like any other substance, epoxy is not perfect. It has only two significant drawbacks, which are directly related to its structure and composition:

• insufficient elasticity;
• the need to comply with a special cooking technology.

Application area

When using the material, due to the presence of ED-16 epoxy resin in it (in more expensive variations - ED-20), a high-strength film is formed. The product is used to coat surfaces such as parquet, doors, windows, furniture, solid wood floors. If the surface will experience serious loads in the future, then you can safely buy an epoxy varnish mixture, which has a huge margin of safety.

She also found application in the manufacture of souvenirs and putties. Often used for finishing metal products.

Material examples

The most popular variety is epoxy-polyurethane varnish. It forms a coating resistant to corrosion and other negative environmental manifestations. Withstands temperature fluctuations from -200 to +120 ° C. Thanks to its components, it reliably isolates the surface from moisture, repels liquid and dirt. After complete drying, the layer is very durable, withstands severe mechanical and electrical loads, as well as vibrations.

Elakor-ED is one of the examples of varnishes that are intended exclusively for creating floor coverings. Easy to apply to any prepared surface. It makes it possible literally in 1 day to make the floors durable, resistant to wear and completely sealed. Numerous studies have shown that such a varnished surface does not react with acids, alkalis and petroleum products. Therefore, it can be used not only in your own home, but also in production.

"Elakor-ED" is designed for pouring the last layers of epoxy coatings when solving such problems:

• creating a 3D floor;
• decorating the flooring with glitters and chips;
• obtaining a glossy finish;
• chemical resistant surfaces.

Surface application method

Before starting work, it is necessary to prepare the surface for varnishing:

1. All debris, dust, loose particles of the past coating are removed from the surface.
2. If the product is metal, then it is necessary to ensure that there is no rust on its surface.
3. Before you need to putty cracks and bumps.
4. The wood surface is primed and sanded.
5. Plastic materials are first matted with sandpaper and then degreased.

Epoxy varnishes are two-component, made on an epoxy basis, so they need to be prepared before use. To do this, a hardener is added and thoroughly mixed for 5-10 minutes. After that, you need to give him time to complete the chemical reaction, sometimes while the transparent composition becomes slightly white. As soon as the formation of bubbles has ended, the substance can be applied.

The viability of the solution after the connection of the components is a certain time, for example, epoxy-polyurethane varnish is good for 1 hour. Therefore, if you decide to treat the surface of a large area, then it is better to cook in portions.

For application, pneumatic devices, airless spray methods or manual methods can be used: brush, roller. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the temperature range of +5 ° ... + 30 ° С, and the relative humidity should not exceed 80% (provided that there is no dew on the treated surface). Drying time is about 8-12 hours, and complete polymerization occurs after two days at a temperature of at least +20 ° C.

Floor application

When applying epoxy floor varnish to parquet or other flooring, it is better to use a wide tool, which will make the job go faster and easier. Perform movements, trying not to repeatedly pass over the painted area - this way the layer will be uniform and have an optimal thickness.

Experts recommend systematically cleaning the brush with a solvent. If you use a roller, then it is better to carry out movements crosswise. The transverse movement is designed to apply the substance to the surface, and the longitudinal movement levels the composition. The speed of movements must be reduced near walls or other obstacles. Before starting work, the roller should be rolled out.

What you need to know about coloring

There are the following drawing rules:

1. Apply the product in several layers (at least 3) depending on the purpose of the room and surface characteristics. Before applying the last layer, the surface can be lightly sanded.
2. Try to adhere to the following proportion - 120 g / m2, since an insufficient amount will not allow you to achieve the desired result, and an excessive amount can cause wrinkling. If the proportion is not respected, the floor covering can be permanently damaged.
3. It is necessary to perform staining in a respirator with a special tab that absorbs organic vapors, since epoxy-based substances are toxic.

Painting with epoxy varnish provides reliable protection of the surface from various damages and loads. This coating makes the product more beautiful, pleasant to look at and touch, and increases its service life. With the help of this substance, ordinary floors can be turned into something luxurious and unusual.

What do you need to paint a bathtub?

Coating selection

Preparing for painting

About flows and influxes

Option 2: acrylic painting

Replacing a "killed" bathtub is an expensive business. It is wiser and more economical in terms of total costs to combine it with a bathroom renovation, but this is a long process. But what if you need a good bath right now, but there is no money? Let's say you bought a second-hand apartment and gave it your all. Or there was a child. Or there are some other everyday circumstances that make you postpone the replacement of the bath for a long time. For example: the bathroom is well decorated, the bathtub is made of cast iron, capital, only there are rust stains in it and the enamel has peeled off in some places. In this case, the best option is to paint the bath with your own hands.

In the case of a cast-iron bathtub in a decent bathroom, an alternative option is to install an acrylic liner in the bathtub (“bath within a bath”). This method has proven itself well and is widely used throughout the world.

But, firstly, the liner (acrylic insert) is not much cheaper than a new bath, but you cannot insert it yourself. Installation of bathtubs in bathtubs is carried out by firms that have the necessary equipment and a staff of specialists.

Secondly, the acrylic insert is not painting, and therefore is not the subject of this article. Therefore, if you need a deep renovation of an old bathroom, read more about it at the link.

What do you need to paint a bathtub?

Can I paint my own bathroom? There are so many frightening warnings!

Knowledge and skills

It is possible to paint the bathtub yourself if you have some painting skills and know the basics of safety when working with volatile corrosive substances. If you had to repair a yacht or a boat, then you will not find anything new for yourself in the technology of painting a bathtub. You just need to stock up on protective equipment, tools and accessories. In addition, it is desirable to have the simplest plumbing skills.

protective equipment

• The first remedy is the season of the year. All work on painting the bath should be done with the windows wide open, and send your family home for a week to the dacha or resort.
• Then, you will need a respirator. "Petal" is not suitable, you need a special one, with an organic absorber cartridge (MZ). A military or civilian gas mask is even more suitable.
• You will also need a rubberized or oilcloth apron and rubber gloves. You can use household latex, but two-layer (white inside; yellow or orange outside), just stock up on at least three sets.

Tools, accessories, consumables

Flat brush 70-90 mm, natural bristle only. It is better to buy two at once: if one accidentally falls and gets dirty, or comes into contact with something greasy, it will have to be thrown away immediately. And do not pull the bristles with your fingers: from any microparticle of grease, the paint will peel off in the future. It is best to immediately put the brushes in a new plastic bag and keep it there until work.

Grinding nozzle for a drill (cord brush) and Durex. Durex, or Durex wheel - flexible, rubber or plastic-based, grinding wheel. Both that, and another - with a shaft under a drill cartridge.

A paint knife and tweezers - you will need them to carefully, without touching your hands, remove the bristles that have come out of the brush. A new brush always "climbs", and the old one, which has already been painted, cannot be used.

Of the consumables, you will need approximately 0.5 liters of acetone or solvent No. 646. Never use white spirit, "Kalosha" or other solvents based on saturated hydrocarbons! You will also need a rag to leave a pile. It can be an old calico, flannel or cotton that has been stretched many times. Microfiber wipes for wiping glasses, 5-6 pcs, are very good, but they cost money, so it’s better to look for a suitable rag, and wash it again and rinse it well before use.

Coating selection

What color to paint the bath? There are only two options: enamel based on epoxy or acrylic resin.

• Epoxy enamel has been used for a long time, more than 20 years. With proper preparation of the bath and compliance with the application technology, the same amount is kept; possibly last longer. The technology of preparation and application of epoxy enamel is quite complicated.
• Acrylic for the restoration of bathtubs is used relatively recently, less than 10 years. Seems to be as durable as epoxy. Applying acrylic enamel is easier, but preparing a ready-to-use compound is more difficult: acrylic is very viscous, and the hardener, on the contrary, is liquid, so you need to mix for a long time and thoroughly. In addition, acrylic is more expensive, and you need to accurately maintain the proportion of resin with hardener.

In general, if you are a fairly experienced painter or yachtsman, you are better off working with epoxy. If you are just a neat person without solid working skills, then it is better to use acrylic.

"Ambulance" for a tin bath

A common case in life: a tin bath, and even lost weight, but still no money. How to be here? You will need a piece of fiberglass satin weave or old wife's tights. The piece should be large enough to close the fistula three or four times with a grip of 5-7 cm on the sides. Still need the most common epoxy glue.

First, the fiberglass is put to boil, and the tights are given to a thorough wash. It is necessary to boil the fiberglass to remove the paraffin residues that coat the fiberglass before weaving. Boil for an hour and a half, after 10-15 minutes carefully draining the top layer of water by a third.

There is a lot in common in the specifics of repairing bathtubs and yachts: from painting features to ways to seal holes

Meanwhile, a fistula with a chipped enamel and a space of 10-15 cm around them are treated with Durex until a shiny metal and a smooth run of the enamel to the metal. Then the dust is collected with a vacuum cleaner without a nozzle, and the treated area is degreased several times with acetone or a solvent until the rags no longer get dirty during degreasing. Then a piece of plastic film is applied outside and fixed crosswise with several tapes of adhesive tape.

Now we prepare epoxy glue, spread a fat-free area, apply a patch of fabric, 2-3 cm in size to the side of the chip, and pierce with an end brush until there are no bubbles. When the epoxy sets to a jelly-like state, apply a second layer of it and apply the next patch, larger than the first one (again with a grip of 2-3 cm to the sides). So you need to impose 2-5 patches. After the epoxy has completely cured, we remove the edges of the patches with the sandpaper flush; then - paint the bath.

Note: in addition to several bathtubs repaired in this way, which have been regularly serving for more than 10 years, the author of these lines knows a yacht that has been sailing safely for 8 years with a hole repaired in the same way, and for repairs it was necessary to run the ship aground, and use ... panties of passengers as the basis of the patches.

Preparing for painting

Preparing the bath for painting comes down to careful degreasing and creating a solid rough surface. Adhesion (sticking) of the repair compound significantly depends on the size of microroughnesses, and its resistance in the future depends on plasticity. Already from the pictures of the baths, on which the new enamel “climbed”, it is clear that thermal deformations were the root cause of the cracking. Therefore, we immediately give two pieces of advice:

Tip 1: for abrasive treatment of the bath, use emery No. 1. It will take longer to work, but if you first remove the streaks with a coarse sandpaper, and then smooth it to a dull finish with a fine one, there will be "micro-cavities" invisible to the eye, into which the enamel will not penetrate, but which will become places of accumulation of residual stresses and cracking centers.

Tip 2: when working with epoxy, in addition to the diluent (acetone or solvent), add 5% by volume of the plasticizer, dibutyl phthalate, to the ready-to-use compound; It is used as a mosquito repellent. This "secret" has long been well known to builders of small boats and other manufacturers of fiberglass products.

Bathroom preparation

Substances used for bath restoration contain volatile aggressive components. Therefore, before starting work, everything must be taken out of the bathroom, except for the bath itself and faience products (washbasins, bidets, etc.). . It is also necessary to protect nickel-plated taps; shower with hose - remove.

Surface cleaning

Preparation for painting a cast-iron bath begins with cleaning from surface contaminants. To do this, oxalic acid, pemolux, or another active detergent is poured onto the bottom of the bath in a path.

We slightly moisten the detergent track with water to make a slurry, and with an ordinary household sponge (new) we smear it from the bottom along the walls to the top. This work, like all subsequent ones, must be done with the bath door open, the windows of the apartment, with gloves and an apron. If oxalic acid is used - also in a respirator (gas mask).

Keep the detergent slurry in the bath for 10-15 minutes, then rinse and fill the bath to the brim. Hold for another 15-20 minutes, drain the water. Now you can start sanding.

Abrasive treatment

As mentioned above, the purpose of abrasive processing is to create the desired microrelief on a clean surface. Therefore, it is impossible to leave rust stains: particles of iron oxide will later become centers of enamel cracking. If rust and dirt have eaten in so that you have to remove the factory enamel to the metal, it's okay, just not to wipe it through if the bath is tin.

First, remove the strapping of the drain and overflow holes. Then, with an electric drill with Durex or a cord brush, we smooth the surface to a matte finish and the absence of visible contamination. We check the roughness “on the nail”: the nail on a properly treated surface should “stretch” and not slide. Additionally, we check in the sliding light of an LED flashlight: there should be no glare spots

Dedusting and degreasing

Unlike previous operations, when dedusting, degreasing and painting, climb into the bath, and even touch its inner surface with your hands. The most difficult thing to do is when installing / dismantling the drain trim, so take a look in advance how you will be able to work bending over, with tweezers, pliers and platypus pliers.

Before degreasing, we collect dust with a vacuum cleaner; with a rag moistened with a solvent, we wipe the places around the drain holes “to a clean rag”, see above, and put the drain straps again.

Then, wearing gloves and an apron, pour 0.5 - 1 l of Sanoks or Adrilan into the bath (these are acid-based active detergents; pemolux is alkaline) and rub with a household sponge (again a new one) from the bottom to the edges in an even layer. A bath with acid grout should stand for an hour and a half.

For degreasing, only acid-based products are suitable. Alkaline "Pemolux" and other powders are not suitable for the described method.

Next, we fill the bath to the brim and also hold for an hour and a half. The bath gets quite hot. If it warms up a little, add another half-bottle-bottle of acid detergent. When the liquid in the bath cools noticeably, drain. To the drain plug, if there is no chain, for this you need to tie a fishing line in advance. After draining, we fill the bath again, hold it for an hour and a half, and drain it again, at least once again. If time endures (say, the family left for a week or two), we do washing “after sour” 3-5 times.

After washing, dry the bath with a household hair dryer. It is impossible to delay drying: after all, dust falls from the ceiling. We check the absence of fat with a shower, temporarily screwing the hose to the mixer: the water should envelop the surface in an even layer, without rolling in drops. Cleanliness is checked with a rag with a solvent, as described above. If the bathtub is clean “on a rag” and completely dry, we again disassemble the plumbing and you can paint.

Option 1: painting with epoxy enamel

Painting the bath with enamel begins with the preparation of the compound according to the instructions on the package. Enamels from different manufacturers differ in composition, so there is no universal recipe. If according to the instructions it is required to heat the base before adding the hardener, heat it in a water bath; The temperature is controlled by the temperature of the water in the bath.

Important: Do not try to immediately "thump" the entire hardener into the base! Even if you have time to finish painting, a durable layer will still not work. Measure the base in portions of 250 ml, and divide the hardener into portions accordingly, preferably in advance. If, say, 1.5 liters of base is used, then the hardener must be divided into 6 parts. After adding the hardener, mix each portion thoroughly.

Important: Do not forget to add 12-14 ml of dibutyl phthalate to each portion of the finished enamel and, again, mix thoroughly.

Paint with a flute brush. Having abundantly moistened the brush, we draw a vertical strip from the bottom to the edge, then rub it as far as possible to the sides. We carry out the next strip in such a way that the horizontal grinding overlaps by 50%. We remove the bristles that have come out of the brush with a paint knife or tweezers. Never touch the painted surface with your hands!

After applying the first (primer) layer, wait 15-20 minutes, again, according to the manufacturer's instructions, and apply the second layer of enamel, STARTING FROM THE SAME PLACE AS THE FIRST, AND IN THE SAME DIRECTION. With this method of painting, the covering layer will lie on the primer in the same stage of gelatinization, and the coating will turn out to be uniform in structure.

At the end of the painting, we lock the bathroom for 3-7 days. The longer the period of time from complete hardening of the enamel to the first wash, the less likely it is to peel off in the future.

About flows and influxes

With both methods of painting, especially with epoxy enamel, streaks and sagging are formed. Their formation must be controlled after 10-15 minutes for epoxy enamel and after 3-5 minutes for acrylic. The streaks are removed with a brush stroke UP until smearing. After the enamel has hardened, the sags on the edges of the drain holes are cut off with a painting or mounting knife. It may be necessary to install new cuffs or gaskets to install the plumbing after restoration - after all, the drain holes will become narrower, and their wall thickness will increase.

Option 2: acrylic painting

Painting a bathtub with acrylic is easier than epoxy enamel. Can be painted with both brush and roller. The best way is in a tapering elongated spiral from the edges to the drain. Just make sure there are no bubbles. If the bubble does not collapse within 1-2 minutes, it is pierced with a brush. If desired, a second layer can be applied after the first one has dried.

But, as mentioned above, portions of the acrylic compound after adding the hardener must be stirred very carefully. And keep in mind - dibutyl phthalate as a plasticizer is only suitable for epoxy. You can't add it to acrylic.

Note: acrylic compound for painting bathtubs goes on sale under the name "stakryl".

Video: an example of acrylic bath restoration

No matter how well you take care of your bathroom, there comes a time when it needs to be replaced. There is an alternative solution - restoration. The main assistant in this case is bath enamel in cans, thanks to which you can easily save a lot of money. Thanks to the use of enamel, there will be no need to dismantle and dispose of the old cast-iron bath, as well as change water and sewer pipes. Most importantly, you do not have to buy a new bath.

What bath enamels exist

Manufacturers offer a different coating for the restoration of bathtubs. What requirements should be presented to paint in order to choose the best option:

• Safety - bath enamel should not contain impurities that can be harmful to health;
• Thermal conductivity - the lower this indicator, the slower the water will cool, respectively, the longer and more comfortable it will splash in a new bath;
• Durability - if your task is not easy to bring shine, but to solve the problem with bathroom enamel for a long time, then the selected enamel should be resistant to mechanical and chemical influences.

What enamels for bathroom renovation does the manufacturer offer, and which one is better:

• epoxy - for more than two decades, epoxy paint has been used to restore bathtubs. It is a mixture of epoxy resin, fillers and pigments. Refers to two-component enamels that require dilution with a hardener before use;
• acrylic - latex paint, which is based on acrylic, has been conquering the consumer for just over ten years. In terms of durability, it is not inferior to epoxy enamels. It is a representative of two-component paints. As a rule, acrylic uses a bulk bath coating technique;
• alkyd - these water-dispersion compositions do not contain solvents, therefore they are practically odorless. With strict adherence to the application technology, bath enamel will last about seven years.

Bath enamel in spray cans, an overview of models and their features

Properly selected bath enamel in cans will last a long time, so you need to understand which type is best to choose. We reveal the pros and cons of various options.

How to paint a bath with enamel. Types, epoxy and acrylic compounds. Dismantling the strapping and surface preparation and painting

How to paint a bathtub with enamel? What kind of paints for restoring an old cast-iron bath can be found on sale? How to prepare the surface for painting?

Let's try to find the answers.

Bath surface before and after restoration.

Why is it needed

When do-it-yourself painting a bathroom with enamel is preferable to replacing it?

There are two main motives.

1. The first and main reason to spend time and effort on the restoration of the old coating is, of course, saving. A new cast-iron bathtub costs much more than any type of enamel: if a can of two-component Tikkurila Reaflex enamel will cost the buyer 1000-1300 rubles, then the price of a full-sized bathtub is at least 10,000.
2. Dismantling and installation of plumbing equipment is often associated with the need to make serious repairs in the bathroom.. At a minimum, restore the tiles laid on the edge of the bathtub and re-seal the connection to the wall.

However: adjoining in any case will create problems.

A new coating should ideally start from under a tile or profile that prevents water from flowing.

If at least one of the driving motives is relevant for you, let's move on.

Types of enamels

What can be the paint to restore the enamel of the bath?

Epoxy

The restoration kit consists of at least two components - the actual enamel, which is a pigment suspension in epoxy resin with a solvent, and a hardener. After drying, the coating is hard, wear-resistant and resistant to minor scratches. The main feature is a small thickness: the chips will have to be pre-leveled with puttying.

Epoxy enamel Tikkurila Reaflex.

For the inexperienced restorer, applying this type of coating can be a pain in the ass. Epoxy enamel is usually applied in four layers; the main problem is to evenly, without streaks, distribute it over the surface with a brush.

This type of enamel also requires the use of a hardener: here again, epoxy resin is one of the components. The coating is much more viscous; it is applied not with a brush, but with a fill: the prepared surface is watered as evenly as possible, after which the inevitable sagging is leveled with a rubber spatula.

Liquid acrylic is able to fill chips and other irregularities without prior puttying. The resulting surface with strength, wear resistance and thermal conductivity will be completely identical to an acrylic bath; however, due to the large mass of cast iron, the collected water will cool much longer.

Training

Instructions for preparing for painting are identical for both types of finishing enamels.

Dismantling the strapping

The trim with overhead chrome grilles is removed using a conventional screwdriver: a couple of screws are unscrewed, after which the plastic parts are loose.

Fully plastic trims are dismantled using pliers inserted into the grate. The outlet and overflow are unscrewed counterclockwise.

The most problematic thing is the dismantling of old bathtubs in stalinkas and early Khrushchevs, equipped with cast-iron piping with steel pipes.

How to make this work?

1. At first, it is worth trying to move the release with the same pliers held by a gas key as a lever. Unlike a plastic release, much more effort is permissible here.
2. Plan "B": a massive cast-iron tee under the outlet is heated to a cherry glow with a gas burner or blowtorch.

Attention: it is the tee that needs to be heated.

Overheating of the bath will lead to the appearance of new enamel chips, and the cast iron itself is quite sensitive to uneven heating.

After warming up, while the tee is hot, you can again try to move the outlet. We have physics on our side: the thermal expansion of cast iron will weaken its adhesion to threads.

1. If this recipe did not help, you can try to soak the stuck thread with VD-40 automotive oil or kerosene. Since the gasket under the outlet will burn out when heated, filling fluid will not be difficult.
2. Finally, if nothing helps, the bathtub is nevertheless dismantled, placed vertically, after which the ill-fated tee is cut off with a grinder or a manual hacksaw.

Surface preparation

For reliable adhesion of the enamel, the surface to be painted must be rough.

How to achieve this?

• Grinding - manual or using power tools.

Grinding old enamel.

• Etching. Oxalic or hydrochloric acid applied to the enamel within a couple of hours will corrode the coating where it has retained its gloss. Drying acid will have to be moistened or reapplied at intervals of 20-30 minutes.

By the way: the use of acid cleaners is the main reason that bathtubs have to be restored.

The next step is degreasing. After the sanding dust or acid residue is washed off, the surface is washed with a soda solution (the remnants of which, of course, are then thoroughly washed off) or wiped with gasoline, acetone or another solvent.

Finally, the last stage of preparation is drying. For this, a fan or uniform heating with a building hair dryer is used. Of course, you can heat the bath only after the solvent residues have completely evaporated.

Epoxy enamel

Epoxy enamel for painting the bathtub is mixed in portions with a hardener and applied in four layers at an interval of about an hour. The drying period of the last layer is a week. As already mentioned, the main problem is to ensure uniform coloring: the enamel is rubbed over the surface as thinly as possible; streaks are immediately picked up.

Painting with epoxy enamel.

How to paint a bathtub with acrylic resin enamel?

1. The outlet is closed with a sheet of cardboard or thick paper rolled into a tube.
2. The paint mixed with the hardener spreads evenly over the entire surface of the finished bath. It is better to use not the factory container, but a small glass.
3. On uncoated areas, acrylic is smeared with a rubber spatula. Do not try to grind the enamel: it will spread evenly on its own.
4. When there are no unpainted areas left, the issue is released. The remains of the enamel flow into the substituted dishes.

Filling the surface with liquid acrylic.

Useful little things

As part of the article, we will get acquainted with two more unusual coatings that can be useful when renovating a bathroom.

Cold galvanizing paints are used as a means of long-term protection of steel water pipes from corrosion. For example, Zinga electrically conductive paint, after drying the binder, forms a thin zinc coating on the surface of the pipe, which can protect it even with constant contact with water.

To protect gas pipes and valves from possible overheating in case of fire, special fire-resistant enamels are used. So, fire-retardant paints for metal Polistil are able to withstand contact with open fire for 45-60 minutes: when heated to a critical temperature, they foam and reliably insulate the base.

In the photo - a sample of the foam coating.

How to paint a bathtub with enamel: a video instruction on how to paint with your own hands and a photo

How to paint a bathtub with enamel: a video instruction on how to paint with your own hands and a photo

Bathroom enamel - selection and coating

Even if you wash and thoroughly dry the bathtub after each use, the enamel of this sanitary ware will not remain pristine white and shiny as when you bought it. Over time, the inner surface of the bowl turns yellow, covered with small cracks, chips due to constant contact with water and mechanical stress.

Only re-enamelling the bath with your own hands can restore whiteness and gloss. High-quality bathroom enamel applied to a prepared surface can extend the life of the product by 1.5-5 times at a relatively low cost. In this article we will tell you what types of covering compositions are used for this and how they differ.

Characteristics

Each container for washing in the production process goes through the enameling procedure, that is, it is covered with a layer of resistant paint that gives the surface color, glossy shine and smoothness. In modern models, bathroom enamel in the form of a powder is applied by an electrostatic method, and then “baked” at a high temperature, so the coating is durable and strong. You can paint the bowl at home with acrylic or epoxy enamel using a roller, brush or by pouring.

These compounds are used because they have the following qualities:

• Water resistant. The top layer of paint is in constant contact with water, so it should not collapse and crack under its influence.
• Resistant to temperature changes. Hot water is used for washing and washing, so bathroom enamel must withstand high temperatures, as well as its fluctuations, without deforming.
• Resistant to strong detergents. To maintain the cleanliness of the product, aggressive household chemicals are used, the impact of which the paint used to paint the bathtub must withstand.
• Resistance to mechanical stress and shock. During the operation of the bath, falling objects and high loads cannot be avoided, therefore the paint used for enameling must give a durable coating.

Please note that enameling a bathtub at home is very different from the factory one, so it is more fragile. The service life of the epoxy coloring composition is 5-7 years, acrylic - 8-15 years, and enamel in cans used for local repair of cracks - only 1-2 years.

Classification

To paint the bath yourself to restore the whiteness, shine and smoothness of the product, various types of specialized enamel are used, which are developed taking into account the conditions of use. The quality of re-enamelling plumbing fixtures depends on 3 factors: the correct choice of the coloring composition, the quality of the enamel and the correct preparation of the surface for application.

Bath enamels differ according to the following criteria:

1. Compound. To paint the bowl with your own hands, use enamels based on epoxy resins or acrylic. Acrylic products are more expensive, but they have a longer service life, and are also odorless.
2. Application. You can paint the bathtub with a brush with natural bristles, a soft roller or by pouring. Small chips and cracks are conveniently repaired with epoxy paint in spray cans.

Important! To facilitate the application of enamel, it is necessary to properly prepare the surface of the bath for painting. Before painting the product at home, it must be cleaned of dirt, old enamel removed, degreased and dried thoroughly. The quality and durability of the effect depends on the observance of the enameling technology.

Epoxy compounds

Epoxy-based bathroom enamel is an effective and affordable remedy for restoring the whiteness, gloss and smoothness of the product. It is a two or three-component mixture consisting of a base, a hardener and a plasticizer, with a thick, viscous consistency. Enamel is applied with a natural brush or roller in several layers. This species includes the popular brands Epoxin-51, Epoxin-51C and Reflex-50 from the well-known Finnish company Tikkurila.

The advantages of epoxy enamel are:

• Low price. Compared to other bath paints, epoxy enamel is the least expensive.
• Ease of application. Thick, viscous epoxy enamel is easily applied to the surface of the bath, evenly filling pores, cracks or small chips.
• Long service life. Epoxy coating with intensive use lasts 5-7 years, which adds "life" to the bath by 1.5 times.
• Ease of use. According to reviews of professional craftsmen, epoxy enamel is better suited for independent use, as it is applied without difficulty and sets for a long time.
• Strength. Epoxy coating well withstands contact with water, shock, mechanical stress, while maintaining the integrity of the layer.

Note! Before painting a plumbing fixture with epoxy enamel, keep in mind that the drying time of this composition is 5-7 days. The first 2-3 days after application, you should not even enter the room so that dust does not settle on the bath, and the subsequent time should limit the use of water. There is a simple pattern: the more time it takes for the enamel to dry, the stronger and more stable the coating.

Acrylic compositions

Acrylic-based enamel is a more modern and effective tool for painting sanitary equipment. With it, a stable, durable, smooth and glossy coating with a thickness of 6 mm is created. Acrylic enamel is a two-component mixture of base and hardener. Compared to epoxy enamel, liquid acrylic is more fluid and plastic. Apply this coloring composition by pouring or with a brush. The most popular acrylic compound used to repair bathtubs is Stacryl.

Acrylic enamels have the following advantages:

1. Persistence. The effect of applying liquid acrylic on the inner surface of the bowl lasts 8-15 years, which is quite a long time for dyes.
2. "Self-Cleaning Effect". Acrylic coating has a smooth, non-porous surface that repels dirt.

Liquid acrylic for painting bathtubs is more demanding on surface preparation. In order for the coating to turn out to be even and durable, it is necessary to clean the product, remove the top layer of the old enamel with sandpaper or a grinder with a grinding disc, repair chips and cracks with putty, degrease, and then dry thoroughly with a building hair dryer. Only under these conditions will the result be stable and of high quality.

Bathroom enamel

How to choose the right bathroom enamel and enamel technology? Characteristics, classification, epoxy and acrylic enamel compositions, advantages and disadvantages.

Bath enamel or the most budgetary way to restore the surface of the bath

No matter how hard a person tries, all household items eventually age and lose their performance. The bath is no exception. Proper care, of course, will extend the life of the bath, but still, during operation, the coating may change color, cracks and chips appear on it. What to do if the financial situation does not allow you to purchase a new bath or you live in a rented apartment and buying new plumbing is not included in your plans. There is a solution - to carry out restoration work!

Varieties

For restoration work of the bath, you can use epoxy or acrylic enamel.

Epoxy

Epoxy paint is characterized by a long service life of the bath, if all the recommendations were taken into account when painting. This type of paint is quite popular among consumers, as it has been on the market for over 20 years.

Acrylic enamel is a more modern tool, because it has been on sale for 10 years. In terms of quality characteristics, it surpasses epoxy paint.

Acrylic is very easy to apply, which cannot be said about the process of preparing a solution for restoration. To mix all the components of this tool, you have to make an effort.

The cost of acrylic is about twice as high as buying epoxy enamel.

Recovery methods

There are only three main ways to restore the damaged surface of the bath.

Epoxy paint

Enameling is the oldest and most proven method of bathroom renovation. It has many advantages:

• the cheapest way to restore bathtubs;
• during its implementation, the bathtub and drain siphon are not dismantled;
• it is possible to produce coloring of cast-iron and iron bathtubs.

It also follows before choosing the color of the bath, learn about the disadvantages of this method:

• enamel turns yellow over time;
• the surface becomes sensitive to shock and mechanical stress;
• painting the bath takes no more than three hours, but it will take a whole week to dry;
• enamel will not help to hide a factory defect on the surface of the bath.

Acrylic liner in an old bathtub

For this method, a plastic tab is used, which is glued to the inside of the bath with a special foam. This method deserves attention, since a restored bathtub can last up to 15 years.

• high strength of the material;
• plastic coating is not able to turn yellow;
• perfectly even coating without any defects.

Unfortunately, the use of an acrylic tab in an old bath has some disadvantages:

• a flat inlay can also be a disadvantage, since earlier bathtubs were produced with some defects;
• not used for iron and thin cast iron baths;
• before installing the tab, the siphon should be dismantled;
• adhesive foam, which is used for mounting, may peel off over time;
• if the bath is tiled with ceramic tiles, it may be necessary to remove some sections of the ceramic coating and lay new tiles.

liquid acrylic

Acrylic in liquid form resembles condensed milk, to make the restoration of the bath with this method, acrylic is “poured” onto the inner lining of the bath.

Pros of using this method:

• after application, you should wait only 36 hours and you can take a bath;
• the strength of the coating is achieved by the absence of glue between the coating and acrylic;
• liquid acrylic has all the advantages of an acrylic liner - it remains snow-white, retains the temperature of the water well, and is not afraid of interacting with aggressive chemicals;
• This method can restore the bath from any material.

Cons of using the poured acrylic method:

• it is necessary to dismantle the drain siphon;
• liquid acrylic will copy all the deformations and irregularities of the bath surface.

Enamelling

Enameling baths is one of the methods of its renewal. A thin layer of special enamel will help improve its appearance quickly and inexpensively.

But there is also a drawback in using this method, since the service life is no more than 5 years. Then you have to do it all over again.

Bathroom enameling can be done in a rented apartment so as not to spend extra money on buying a new bathroom.

Bulk method

Another way to restore the bath is called "bulk", which is perfect for apartment owners. It is characterized by high quality and the price will be more expensive. The “bulk” method of bathtub restoration helps to extend its service life up to 15 years, which significantly exceeds the service life of the bathtub after enameling.

Also, using the method of "bulk bath", you can easily remove all the bumps or flaws in the bath, and its surface will become smooth and snow-white.

To carry out the “filling bath” procedure, liquid acrylic is used. It is slowly poured onto the sides of the bath, after which the acrylic begins to flow down. With this application, the coating of the bath becomes even and smooth.

Do-it-yourself enameling

Enameled baths are damaged by the formation of various cracks, scratches and chips, as the material is quite fragile. Over time, dirt fills in the cracks, and the bath loses its original appearance.

In the factory, enamel is applied to hot metal, so the factory coating is stronger and more durable than what you get at home. Of course, you can independently reconstruct an enameled bath, but it should be borne in mind that not everyone succeeds the first time.

To achieve the desired result, you should take all actions very carefully and slowly.

1. Clean the bath from the previous coating. First, clean with detergent, and then use a tool to remove the entire coating. For this type of work, you can use a grinder with a grinding wheel, a drill with a specially abrasive nozzle, or an ordinary emery stone. Particular attention should be paid to cleaning the bottom so that it turns white. To do this, you can use a cord brush.
2. Perform a thorough degreasing of the bath with detergent. To make a new coating of high quality, you need to get rid of all organic substances, including fat. Remember to use a respirator and rubber gloves.
3. Rinse thoroughly with hot water.
4. Drain and overflow closed with molar tape they also cover the edges of the bath, to which the walls adjoin.
5. The coating is dried. The remaining enamel is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The floor of the bathroom should be covered with improvised materials, such as newspapers or polyethylene.

If you decide to use epoxy enamel to restore the bathtub coating, you need to know that:

1. When adding a hardener, the proportions must be strictly observed. Epoxy paint is highly toxic, so when working with it, you must use a respirator. First you need to add the hardener to only half of the paint.
2. To paint the bath, use a flat brush, the width of which should be 7 cm or more. Painting starts from the top edge of the bathtub.
3. With a brush, you should make a sheer strip from top to bottom, and then start painting the bathtub with horizontal lines. This action is performed around the entire perimeter of the product.
4. Then again paint the side of the bath, special attention should be paid to the inside.
5. Then the second part of the paint is taken and diluted, and then the enamel coating continues. It is necessary to carefully monitor the uniformity of the application of paint.
6. After a week, the bath can already be used.

Bulk method

The bulk method for the restoration of the bath is quite new, but is already very popular among consumers. For this method, a special tool is used - liquid acrylic. You can choose the color of the future bath yourself to make it the center of the bathroom or emphasize the color scheme in the design of the bathroom.

The bulk method of bath restoration combines the advantages of other methods, such as the use of an acrylic liner and the application of enamel. Therefore, the main advantages of this method can be called:

• The bath after using the bulk method will last longer than the bath after enameling.
• Application of liquid acrylic can be done on bathtubs of various shapes, and for example, the acrylic liner is produced mainly in standard sizes and rectangular shapes.

• No need to dismantle the ceramic tiles around the bath, when using the bulk method, as is done when installing an acrylic liner.
• No need to dismantle the siphon when using liquid acrylic.
• Buying liquid acrylic will be cheaper than purchasing an acrylic liner. Compared to enameling a bath, liquid acrylic will cost a little more.

If we talk about the shortcomings, then only one can be attributed to them. This is a long drying period for liquid acrylic, which reaches two days.

After the restoration work, your bath will become snow-white, smooth and sparkling. But if you do not pay due attention to caring for it, then soon the bath will become about the same as it was before staining.

To extend the life of the enamel, you need to follow a few simple rules:

• to wash the bath, use gentle detergents - for example, dishwashing detergents;
• never use sharp objects or acids for cleaning;
• if you soak clothes in the bath, then you can not use bleach.

Bath enamel: enameling and painting, restoration of the coating and its restoration

Bath enamel allows you to quickly restore the surface. Your bath will look like new! What should be considered when choosing enamel and how to make enamel correctly?

The paint or varnish applied to the epoxy barrier layer serves a decorative purpose while protecting the epoxy from sunlight. Thus, the finish coat extends the life of the epoxy barrier layer, which in turn provides a stable base that extends the life of the finish coat. Together they form a protective system that is much more reliable than either of the coatings alone.

Protection from sunlight is the main criterion in choosing a top coat. The long-term UV protection of the barrier layer depends on the effectiveness with which the finish layer resists UV and retains pigments and/or a layer of UV inhibitors on the surface of the barrier epoxy layer. Glossy coatings reflect more sunlight from the surface than matte ones. Therefore, white - especially glossy white - is the most reliable coating.

Coating Compatibility

Most coatings are compatible with cured epoxy, which is an almost inert, rigid plastic. Thus, most paint solvents will not soften or react with the epoxy surface. However, we recommend making a test panel to ensure that the coatings are compatible. In all cases, we recommend that you follow the manufacturer's instructions to check compatibility.

One-component polyurethanes and polyester gelcoats can be damaged by epoxy amines and, if used, must be applied to fully cured resin for an average of two weeks at room temperature. Full cure can be achieved faster by drying at elevated temperature. Drying will improve the thermal performance of the epoxy and is recommended for further overcoating with dark colors.

Coating types

Latex paints are compatible with epoxy and do their job of protecting the epoxy surface from UV damage. In many architectural works, latex paints can be the most convenient finish. Their durability is limited.

Alkyd topcoats - enamel, alkyd enamel, yacht enamel, acrylic enamel, alkyd modified epoxy, traditional varnish - provide ease of application, low cost, low toxicity, and availability. Cons: only very high-quality materials have the necessary degree of protection against ultraviolet radiation, low abrasion resistance.
One-component polyurethane coatings offer ease of application, cleaning, and better performance than alkyd materials. They are more expensive and some may not be compatible with the amines of cured WEST SYSTEM epoxy. However, hardener 207 will give better compatibility. Take a test.

Two-component paints based on linear polyurethanes (LP) provide the most reliable protection. LP coatings are available in both pigmented and clear finishes and provide exceptional UV protection, gloss retention, abrasion resistance and full epoxy compatibility. But, compared to other types of coatings, they are expensive, require skill to apply, and pose a greater health risk, especially when sprayed.

Epoxy paints are one-component and two-component. Two-component epoxy paints have characteristics similar to polyurethane paints. They are resistant to abrasion and chemicals, but have limited UV resistance compared to linear polyurethane paints.
Antifouling paints are available on the market in a variety of formulas. Most of them are compatible with epoxy and can be applied directly to the prepared barrier layer. If you are unsure of compatibility, curing and adhesion problems with a specific paint, apply a primer recommended for that antifouling paint to the barrier coat. Follow the recommendations for preparing fiberglass surfaces. Other paints, including yacht polyurethane coatings and primers, are not recommended for use below the waterline.

Primers. Generally not required for paint to adhere to epoxy, but some paints require an intermediate primer; high-build coatings can be useful for hiding scratches and blemishes on surfaces. If the application instructions for the chosen paint or varnish require the application of a special primer to the surface, follow the recommendations for the preparation of fiberglass. Etching primers are not recommended due to the chemical resistance of the epoxy.

Polyester gelcoat is a pigmented version of polyester resin used to build fiberglass boats and many other products. Gelcoat provides a smooth surface and is applied during the manufacturing process of a boat or other product. Gelcoat is not often used as a post-production finish, but it can be applied to epoxy and is useful for repair work. Uncured epoxy will prevent the gelcoat from curing properly. For detailed information on applying polyester gelcoats to epoxy, refer to Manual 002-550, Fiberglass Boat Repair and Maintenance, published by Wessex Resins.

Always follow the coating manufacturer's instructions. Regardless, as previously stated, we recommend doing a test panel to evaluate the required degree of surface preparation, compatibility and performance of the finish.

I must say that people in Minsk have no idea at all what plastic is and what it is eaten with, so it’s not even worth saying that we don’t have the corresponding stores (yet :-)). And when I already had several pendants and bracelets ready, the question of varnishing became a problem.

Well, what exactly is the problem? I, like any Internet user and inhabitant of this community, studied everything where experienced people share their experiences, and came to the conclusion that my attempts to cover crafts with nail polish are no good and there are two options: epoxy and acrylic-polyurethane varnish (for brevity AP).

The check-in at the construction hypermarket ended in complete failure.

The trip to the first building market near the house was extremely entertaining. I felt like a real blonde when my question "Do you have AP varnish?" At best, two amazed eyes were fixed on me and the answer followed: "Girl, what are you talking about? Yes, there are no such things!" (as an option, they laughed at me, scoffed, etc., which was followed by a remark about the competence of the seller and they calmed down). No, well, you can imagine that in the entire market there was the only (!) seller who knew that such a varnish existed and even suggested where to look for it.
It's simply unthinkable how incompetent salespeople we have, it turns out. They, for the most part, only know that there are acrylic and alkyd varnishes.
A two-component epoxy was bought from that single seller, as the most affordable remedy.

About epoxy.

I must say that this is a very mysterious beast. The first batch of the mixture was cooked :-D I kneaded it in a small jar and, after closing the lid, left it for a few minutes to let the bubbles come out. When I then took it in my hands, I almost dropped it - it was red-hot! Conclusion: knead in an open container :-)

Epoxy coating is a challenge. Maybe, of course, it's just for me-inexperienced. Well, applying is half the battle (here you have to guess what and how thick the layer is, otherwise there will be ugly islands), but dry it ... It's good that I had a lot of free time: for three hours I turned the beads every 15 minutes so that a droplet does not flow in one direction. Then I tossed much less often, when I noticed that the coating began to dry up. You could try to heat it up a little so that it dries faster, but I did not dare.

Result? Yes, it was great in the beginning! A smooth shiny surface (however, islands appeared a little along the edges of the flat straps of the bracelet, but they could already be forgiven). But after several days of not too active wear of the bracelet, the surface became dull and somehow lost its original appearance:-(It was decided, this is not for me.

About varnish.

Thanks to that competent seller who told me where to go in search, I went to the largest construction market in the city of Minsk. Incompetent sellers there turned out to be even more caustic, but we ourselves are not born with a bast :-) But, for that, we met very competent ones who even helped and prompted. Through a long and tedious search, a single small can of varnish was fished out of some bins (there were only 5 liter cans and bottles in the assortment at exorbitant prices from $ 100, and this 0.75 cost me around $ 25). Here is my joy:

acrylic-polyurethane varnish Dulux Diamond semi-gloss (there were no glossy ones). It goes like a floor finish

The contents are a little shocking, of course, but I was already prepared for the fact that it is like milk:

It is applied very simply. The only thing that I liked to apply just with a finger in a glove: there are no grooves left from the bristles of the brush and there are no bubbles. Dries instantly. After an hour, you can already calmly twirl in your hands - it is guaranteed to be dry (unless, of course, the coating is uniform without large influxes).

The result is excellent in my opinion. Despite the fact that the varnish is semi-matte, the coating is quite shiny.
I don't know how Fimo's signature polish behaves, etc., but I liked this one. It dries completely transparent without any yellowness, practically odorless and, if it gets on hands, it is washed off with water. After drying, it does not dissolve in water (however, I did not conduct tests on keeping the coated product in water for days :-)). I poured some varnish into a small jar and, it seems to me, so far it has not even indicated that I use it - a very small amount.

Thanks to the one who mastered so many letters :-) I really hope that my experience will be useful to someone.
If anyone is interested, here are some, in my opinion, informative links about varnishes:

I'll also write my own notes:
1) If alkyd or alkyd-uritanium, etc. is written on the can, then this not water soluble varnish (diluted with white spirit). I have not tried it, but I know that it stinks and has a yellow tint.
2) if the jar simply says "acrylic lacquer", then it is most likely that it is on latex basis, but, as experienced people say on the Internet, it does not suit us, because. latex and plastic do not get along and there is a possibility that your beautiful coating will peel off with a cloudy film after a while.
3) do not believe if they convince you and simply swear that AP varnishes do not exist :-) It's not you blonde - that's what they are ;-)
4) all sorts of varnishes from thin. stores (I'm not talking about branded Fimo, Scalpay, etc.) are most often no good - do not buy into the assurances of sellers.

This is just a personal experience and the result of my searches and suffering, therefore it does not pretend to be unshakable :-) If you have something to correct or add, I will only be glad