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Lamp made of wood and resin. Wood and Epoxy LED Lamp Ideas for Epoxy Resin Table Lamps

So, let's go in order, step by step:

1. At the beginning, I made a hole in the middle of the workpiece. For this, a milling cutter (which is not necessary) and a drill were used. In any case, one cannot do without work with chisels. A drill can make auxiliary holes using simple and feather drills, after which it is necessary to hollow out the middle with chisels. The depth must be at least as high as the light bulb you want to use.

2. At the second stage, the middle was burned out. A little gasoline (or any combustible mixture), a lighter and you're done. This is the easiest step.

3. Next, I filled the prepared hole with epoxy resin, after inserting a mold with a diameter of about 70-80 mm into it. It can be any plastic even measured form. You can also use PVC pipes, after tightening one end with a film and sealing it with aluminum tape.

4. At the fourth stage, we cut off all unnecessary, again, with the help of chisels, until the epoxy layer appears.

5. The final processing depends on your imagination and creativity. I sanded so that there were small edges, painted with black paint on wood, sanded again and covered with a thin layer of epoxy. Variations can be any.

As a result, it remains only to make a hole for the cartridge and the wire, plug it into the socket, turn it on and enjoy your work

That's all for today. Great creativity to you!

If you have any questions - write, I will be happy to help!

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Romanian sculptor and designer Eduard Lokota founded his original design studio with the aim of decorating the homes of modern man. The studio's collections are inspired by nature in general and seascapes in particular. Eduard Lokota makes each sculpture by hand. As a result, the objects are truly one of a kind. They captivate with their representation of the primordial relationship between the hardness of rock and the fluidity of water. The designer combines sculptural elements with artistic features, blurring the line between art and function.

“Eduard Lokota currently lives and works in Timisoara, Romania.
He has been creating unique sculptures using epoxy resin among other materials for a relatively long time.

Some of his works are sold for 1100 euros.

Let's try and make a lamp similar to one of the designer's works.
As a basis, the author took an oak bar measuring 65 by 65 mm.

Then you need to decide which part of the lamp will be epoxy, and which will remain in its original form (well, almost original).

To solve this dilemma, the master used the rule of harmonious proportion, or as it is also called the rule of the golden section. This is the rule under which the larger part is related to the smaller one as the length of the whole object is to the larger part. If the numbers, then this ratio is approximately 1.62, and in order not to break his brain with long calculations, the author decided to leave the wooden part 162 mm long, and the epoxy 100 mm.

If you separate these two sections with just a straight line, it will be trite and not comme il faut at all. But if you turn on the fantasy, you can come up with something like this.

Breaking a block of wood in this way is not strong enough, I think to anyone, so the author uses the so-called gouging drilling method.

The essence of the method is that the author of the homemade product, using screw (ordinary ones were also used) drills on wood, drills a bar at different angles with drills of various diameters as needed. In this case, the worse it gets, the better, he says. Actually, this is the gouging drilling method. He also warns anyone who decides to repeat this method that the drills cut into the wood at a sufficiently high speed. This causes certain inconveniences. The author recommends using a screwdriver, and not a drill at a fairly low speed.

After that, a chisel is enough and woo a la - the bar is divided into 2 parts.

The truth looks so beautiful as if the dogs gnawed. But in other ways it is impossible to achieve such a figured division of an oak (and rather thick and very strong) bar.

Then the author, using a ruler and a pencil, marks the center on both sides and drills with a thin drill also on both sides. This is necessary for accuracy. The resulting hole will be a guide for a large diameter drill.

The boundary between the light source and the resin will be separated by a lens from the old lens. The diameter of the lens in the frame is 22 mm. To install it, you need to drill a small recess using a drill of the appropriate diameter.

On the reverse side, the author drills the workpiece with a real feather monster. The drill diameter is as much as 45 mm and, at the very least, the drill gnaws through such a huge hole in an oak beam.

Further, the author begins to experimentally select the concentration of the dye for the resins, choosing an interesting shade.

He also fixes the lens with resin.

Next, you need to prepare a form for filling. The author cut off several pieces of acrylic to the size of the bar and connected them together with a household tape. This is necessary for waterproofing at the joints.

This is how a kind of formwork turned out.

To control the pouring process, the author makes a transparent screen. He decided to make a kind of screen from a transparent plastic cover from children's paints.

While everyone is trying to get rid of the small bubbles that form during the mixing and pouring of the resin, in order to get a transparent pour, the author decides to air the entire mixture to the fullest and vice versa to get a bunch of bubbles. Therefore, violating the instructions, he began to actively mix the filling.

It's time to pour.

But all the bubbles started to leave the resin. But the most unpleasant thing is that the form began to leak. Even a bunch of rubber bands did not help, so it was decided to separate the pour and the mold and take the resin to the balcony. The author left the form impregnated with resin warm. The plan paid off. Resin ran out in the cold. The form was glued and became completely sealed. Moreover, bubbles no longer floated in thick resin. Having mixed it well, it became possible to keep them there forever.

After 12 hours, the resin solidified and became hard as a stone.

Now we need to separate the pieces of acrylic and transparent plastic.

The author decided to add grace and a unique feature to the homemade product, a little zest, so to speak.
It remains to fill the resulting pattern with resin.

It's time to start the sanding process.
For grinding the workpiece, the author uses a grinding machine. Started sanding with 60 grit tape, then 150, 240 and 320 grit. Finished with 500 grit and 1000 grit paper.

This is what the surface looks like after sanding with 1000 grit.

Next polishing. Using a felt pad coated with a special polishing paste for plastics, start polishing.

After grinding in some recesses, the resin collapsed. It needs some minor cosmetic work. For this, ordinary quick-drying epoxy smog for repairs from a tube is suitable. It must be tinted in the color of the fill and the glue hardens within 5 minutes.

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Wood and Epoxy Resin LED Bulb

October 11, 2018
Specialization: master in the construction of plasterboard structures, finishing work and laying flooring. Installation of door and window blocks, facade finishing, installation of electrics, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.

I want to tell you about an interesting LED lamp project. Its unique design is suggested by nature itself, I just added an electrical part and gave it a geometric shape.

I choose wood

In my workshop I had a cut of cherries, from which I cut off an uneven edge with an electric jigsaw. I will use it as the main material for the design of the lamp. The bark of the tree was brushed to remove dust and stubborn dirt.

I stabilize wood

The edge of the wood was slightly rotten, and to avoid warping the wood due to natural decay processes, I treat it with Minwax hardener. The composition penetrates deep into the wood, and the special resin included in it strengthens and binds the destroyed wood fibers.

I apply the composition with a paint brush, paying maximum attention to the cherry bark so that it does not fall off during further processing.

I level the surface

With the help of a manual milling cutter and a roller sled, I level the surface of the cherry cut.

Making a mold to fill

To create a form to hold the epoxy around the cut wood, I make it from pieces of MDF. To do this, I cut out 4 sidewalls and the bottom to fit the saw cut. I lubricate the inside of them with a thin layer of wax to facilitate release after pouring the epoxy. Then I assemble the case with a glue gun, placing a saw cut of a tree inside.

pouring epoxy resin

The epoxy had to be poured in 3 coats to prevent overheating. At first, I kneaded the resin in a cup, then poured it into a mold. I heated the resin with a building hair dryer to remove air bubbles. Again poured the next portion of the resin, and warmed up.