Do-it-yourself workbench from bars. How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

Not a single workshop is complete without a desktop, it is called a workbench. The concept of a workbench is much broader than just a table, as it must have a number of features that distinguish it from a simple table and make it an indispensable assistant in the workshop. How to make a simple, convenient and compact carpentry workbench with your own hands from wood will be discussed in this article.

Introduction

There are three main types of carpentry workbenches:

• Stationary. The desktop is installed in a certain place, it is integrated into the interior of the workshop and is not supposed to be moved.
• Folding. The work table is set in a certain place in the workshop, but it has several positions and can be easily transformed. For example, one position can be working, the second is folded (retracted), or the workbench can be transformed to perform various technological operations.
• Mobile. In other words, it is a table on wheels. It can be easily moved to any convenient place in the workshop. As a rule, it can also be foldable, so it has the ability to transform to change operating states.

The design of the wooden workbench, which is discussed in this article, is a folding homemade workbench.

General description of the design of the workbench

This version of the workbench has the simplest design. It is attached to the wall on one side, has two support legs and can be folded (retracted) to a vertical position. Thus, this design is well suited for rooms that have a limited area, since free space can be organized by transforming such a workbench.

A homemade workbench consists of the following basic elements:

All these elements are made of solid wood (pine) and plywood.

Preparation for production

Before you start making a folding workbench with your own hands, you need to plan and prepare all the necessary tools and materials.

Tools and machines

In the production process, the following tools and fixtures will be required:

• or ;
• End saw;
• Drill or ;
• Level;
• Hand tools (screwdriver, hammer, etc.).

Materials and accessories

During the production process, the following materials and components will be required:

• thickness 15-30mm (as an option to apply or as a last resort);
• Timber (pine) 80x40;
• Piano loop;
• M10 bolts with nuts and washers (as an option, you can use a stud);
• Self-tapping screws.

The process of making a carpentry workbench with your own hands

Let's divide the whole production process into a number of simple technological operations.

Countertop manufacturing

A sheet of plywood will be used to make the countertop. It makes no sense to give dimensions, since in each case the dimensions must be selected individually for the needs of the master, the geometry of the room and the work that is planned to be performed at this workplace. Therefore, we will not give dimensions in this article - the general idea and concept should be clear from the photo and video.

• Surface evenness. If the countertop shows signs of deformation and does not have a flat surface, then working on such a homemade workbench will be difficult, to say the least;
• Mechanical strength. The tabletop must be durable, that is, have greater resistance to mechanical stress. Since rather massive objects (machines or large-sized workpieces) can be installed on the desktop, the tabletop must withstand such loads and not deform during operation.
• Surface strength. Surface resistance to external mechanical influences. Since various works related to the processing of materials, painting, etc. are performed on the desktop, the presence of a protective layer on the countertop will be an advantage and will save the surface from wear.

At this stage, the required dimensions of the future countertop are marked and trimmed along the outlined contours.

Frame - the basis of the future homemade workbench

The frame is the main load-bearing element of a workbench made of wood. It must be strong, as all the load will fall on it. We recommend making it from an array, for example, a bar 40x80mm.

The most common wood and less expensive is pine, so it is quite suitable, however, if you make the base and a denser material, such as beech, birch or oak, then the strength will increase significantly, although such costs are not justified.

The frame has a "U-shaped" shape. As shown in the workbench photo below.

To fasten the bars to each other, you can use various types of fasteners, but the simplest and most versatile way is to mount on self-tapping screws at the end. In this example, the method of secret fastening with self-tapping screws is used.

Yes, with this option, the screws are hidden and they are not visible, but this option is not recommended, since the strength of such a connection is not great. We suggest using it as fastening with self-tapping screws in the end, as well as using additional metal corners installed inside the corner and also on self-tapping screws. In this case, the strength will be sufficient.

The fastening of the frame to the tabletop in this example is also carried out with self-tapping screws that enter “into the edge” (at an angle) of the frame and then into the tabletop. The advantage of this fastening is the simplicity and concealment of self-tapping screws. Nevertheless, the quality of the connection suffers here, since there is a possibility of splitting the edge of the frame. It is still recommended to use one of the three mounting methods described below:

• Through holes are made in the countertop and self-tapping screws pass through the countertop into the frame. With this option, there will be the maximum structural strength. The disadvantage is obvious - the caps of the screws will be visible on the countertop, although, of course, they can be easily drowned and hidden "flush".
• From the inner corner between the table top and the frame, several (6-9 pieces) corners are installed, which are mounted on self-tapping screws. The top surface of the countertop will not suffer and the view will be neat. However, mounting on self-tapping screws that do not go through the countertop is not so reliable. Below is a drawing of an example of using an inner corner.

Installation of the support element

The support element is a simple bar of the same section as the bars used for the frame (80x40mm), which must be attached to the wall and in the future it will be the main fulcrum of the future homemade locksmith workbench. The installation of the support element depends on the material of the wall to which we are attaching. If the wall is wooden, then it is difficult to offer something better than “planting” on self-tapping screws. If the wall is brick or concrete, then you can use dowels or lay anchors, etc. Of course, before installation, we will use the level for leveling.

The height must be selected based on the technological tasks for which this workbench is created. However, it should be noted that according to GOST 13025.3-85, the standard height is 720–780 mm from the floor level. As a rule, office furniture has a height of 750 mm.

The fastening of the frame with the tabletop to the supporting element can be done in various ways. The easiest is to use a roll loop. This is what was done in our case (see photo).

In addition to the piano hinge, you can use various options for movable joints - simple door hinges, "frogs", furniture hinges, etc. It is important to note that their number must be sufficient to withstand the loads that are planned for our folding workbench, made by hand.

Installing the legs

In addition to the supporting element, our home-made metal workbench made of wood will rest on a couple more legs. They need to be made foldable so that in the folded position they fold easily and do not stick out. To do this, they need to be bolted to the frame.

Alternatively, in addition to the bolt, you can use a piece from the stud, fastening it with nuts on both sides. In order not to make a big variety in the list of materials used, the legs can be made from the same bar 80x40mm. In order for the legs to fold, they must have roundings on one side, which are easiest to do with a jigsaw.

Set the axis of rotation of the legs. It is quite clear that if you just tighten the bot, then it will press the leg against the frame and its further rotation will be difficult, so you need to install a couple of washers between the leg and the frame. Or maybe not a couple, but 3 or 4 for better rotation, since when the bolt is tightened, the washers will sink into soft wood and a third of the washer will be needed to ensure the gap.

Thus, a do-it-yourself carpentry workbench can be made. The design is the simplest and can and should be modernized by each master for himself, for his workshop, for his technological operations, but this is only the basis that can serve as an idea for the further development of technical thought.

Video

For the convenience of processing wood, stone, plastic and metal, for finishing and assembly manipulations, a working carpentry workbench is often needed. To make it yourself, drawings are not required - they are needed for desktops of complex design, which are also described in this article.

Purpose and typical device of the workbench

Any workbench is a massive and necessarily stable desktop for processing products of various sizes. The larger its dimensions, the larger and heavier parts can be processed on it. Moreover, the work itself is performed both with a hand tool (hacksaw, brace, etc.) and mechanized - for example, using an electric drill or an electric planer. A carpenter's workbench has the following typical layout:

• The working surface is made of solid board, at least 60 mm thick. For the cover of the workbench, it is advisable to use hardwood - beech, hornbeam or oak, otherwise it will have to be changed periodically due to rapid wear. The lid can be put together from separate dry boards and treated with drying oil before installation;
• A vice is “hung” on the front (front) part of the top cover for fixing workpieces. If the linear size of the workbench exceeds 1 meter, you can install two vices - separately for large and small parts. Large vices must be wooden, small ones are acceptable in the "steel version";
• Bench supports are made of soft wood - pine or linden. The supports of the workbench made of wood are necessarily interconnected by longitudinal strips for the overall stability of the structure;
• On supports in the underbench space, retractable or tightly fixed shelves for tools can be located.

A series of holes are drilled in the front of the top cover for installing clamps, wedges and other parts for fastening large parts. A recess is provided in the back of the working surface - it is intended for small parts and accessories. You can replace a difficult-to-make recess with a perimeter of wooden slats.

Homemade workbench can have three types of design:

• Mobile. A small table measuring approximately 70 by 80 cm in length and width, with one vice and weighing up to 30 kg. The lower parts of the supports are made of metal for extra stability. Designed for minor repairs and work with light wood products;
• A stationary workbench of simple design - easy to manufacture, but firmly "tied" to one place. It is used for processing heavy boards and massive wooden blanks;
• Composite on bolted connections. It is convenient for its “collapsibility” and ease of replacing individual parts, but it is more difficult to manufacture than others.

Photo gallery: drawings with dimensions and symbols

We will consider the methodology for the independent manufacture of stationary and adjustable workbenches in more detail. Stationary digs into the ground on its own plot, in the country or in the yard. If it is installed inside a garage or other workroom, it is recommended to attach it well to the floor so that the workbench does not swing during operation.

The assembly sequence is as follows:

1. The base is a frame made of wooden beams, which is fastened so that the structure as a result is as reliable as possible. To do this, you need to place a jumper between the legs, and install the drawer in the middle. They are best placed at a distance of about 40 cm from the floor level. By the way, they are also useful for creating additional shelves. The bars are combined with building glue. Where it is impossible to carry out such work, self-tapping screws must be used. If you are going to make a disassembled tool, it is best to connect the supports with metal corners. In any case, all the grooves are first prepared, then the structure is assembled, the joints are treated with glue, and we fix them with clamps. The best option for a stationary workbench is the ability to attach part of the tool to the wall for reliability.

   The base is a frame of bars

2. If you build a countertop from several boards, then it is important to knock them down as high as possible so that debris and sawdust do not get into the gaps. Dimensions should exceed the width and length of the base by 3-5 cm - this will allow you to clean the tool with all conveniences.
3. The tabletop is screwed and nailed to several boards that are on the other side of the work surface, and at the base it is necessary to place grooves for mounting the bars.

   Boards are attached to a stable frame

4. The desktop must be tidy with a grinder, covered with drying oil to reduce the risk of injury from chips, and metal corners are bolted to its base.
5. We attach a vise to the already made work surface, under which recesses in the work surface should be created, this will allow the vertical plate to be placed in the same plane with the table top. On the underside we install a plywood gasket, while it is important to make sure that the vise lips are flush with the surface. Having attached a vise, mark the area where the holes will be drilled, and attach them with nuts. We mill holes in advance so that the bolts “drown” in them. It is best to install the vise not in the corners, which will make them reliable even under heavy loads.

   A vise or saw can be attached to the surface of the workbench

6. In addition to the vise, you must also make stops. Of course, you can make them yourself, but it is better to purchase and ready-made. However, if you decide to create them yourself, prepare rectangular stops that can be adjusted in height. Bolts should not be used, as they can damage the workpiece during operation. On the working surface we make holes for the stops, while it is desirable to place them at a distance of up to 50% of the vice stroke - this will allow you to securely fix any workpieces.

Video: vise workbench

Video: desktop with a saw

How to make a simple carpentry workbench with your own hands

1. The top cover is knocked together from thick boards, from which a massive shield with a width of 70 cm and a length of up to 2 meters should be obtained. For fasteners, long nails are used, driven into the boards from the “front” side and carefully bent on the wrong side of the wooden lintels. The working surface of the workbench is necessarily made of solid wood, fiberboard, chipboard and other materials from pressed chips are absolutely not suitable for it.
2. A good constructive solution would be to cover the lid along the lower perimeter with a 5 by 5 cm beam - subsequently it is convenient to fix vertical supports to it. The increased weight of the lid will only give additional stability to the entire structure.
3. The location of the vertical supports depends on the size of the top cover of our workbench. It is advisable to make them from a rectangular bar with dimensions from 120 to 120 mm. You can also take round timber as supports, but its fasteners are not as reliable as those of square (rectangular) bars. The height of the working surface is of great importance, the convenience of carpentry manipulations depends on it.
4. It is optimal to set the upper cut of the supports at the level of the hand lowered down - due to the installation of the cover, the total height of the workbench will "grow" by 7-10 cm and it will become quite convenient to work on it. On the ground, we mark up holes for vertical supports and dig them to a depth of 25-30 cm. Accordingly, the total length of the dug-in bars is 1.2-1.3 meters.
5. Vertical bars are installed in dug holes evenly, strictly according to the construction level. The installed supports are connected in pairs using wide boards at a height of 20-40 cm. The transverse boards are attached to vertical bars using long self-tapping screws. After that, a working surface is mounted on the ends of the supports. For its installation, self-tapping screws are used, since hammer blows on nails can move the frame of our structure.
6. When the top cover is securely fastened, vise, clamps and other devices can be “hung” on it for the convenience of carpentry.

If the design is more complex

When making a composite carpentry workbench with your own hands, drawings will be required, although the manufacturing procedure itself is in many ways similar to that described above. The main differences are related to the use of bolted connections instead of self-tapping screws and the installation of tool boxes in the underbench space.

When the installation of the vertical supports is completed, they are interconnected by horizontal jumpers. Previously, in each jumper, with the help of a chisel and a hammer, grooves are hollowed out for a nut with a washer (you can use special furniture bolts with C-shaped nuts). Having set the jumper bar to the required height, a through hole is drilled in the vertical support and the horizontal bar, into which a long bolt is inserted. From the side of the prepared groove, a nut with a washer is “baited” onto the bolt and carefully tightened along the thread.

Horizontal jumpers for the frame of a collapsible workbench will need two on all four sides. In addition, you need to install 1-2 jumpers in the middle of the tabletop, directly below it. Horizontal slats are attached to these additional jumpers on small self-tapping screws, along which tool drawers will slide. The boxes themselves are made "in place", that is, depending on the size of the mounting clearance between the jumpers.

The working cover of the collapsible workbench is also bolted. In the upper part of the vertical supports, a mounting recess is hollowed out with a chisel, holes for bolts are drilled in the cover. Because a flat working surface is required, the bolt heads are “sunk” in the cover due to drilling their seats with drills of the appropriate diameter.

Video: how to make your own milling table

The undeniable advantage of a collapsible workbench lies not only in the easy replacement of parts and the tabletop itself. As you know, under the load from planing, drilling, and other mechanical processing, the most durable workbench is loosened. It is much more reliable and easier to re-tighten the fixing bolts than to drive new nails or screws into the wood - so collapsible models last much longer than knocked together counterparts.

Video: folding workbench table

The design of the carpentry workbench will depend on your needs. In order to make it with your own hands, minimal knowledge and skills are enough.

Since ancient times, skilled craftsmen have sought to equip the workplace as comfortably as possible and, in modern terms, ergonomically, which was considered the key not only to fast and efficient work, but also to safety. In this regard, the premises intended for repair and manual production were filled with all kinds of tables, racks and boxes, the original material for which was wood. Over time, cheaper metal gradually replaced wood from the construction arena and began to be used for the manufacture of machine tools, metal furniture and various auxiliary equipment, especially relevant in a construction workshop. Since the goods offered by stores often do not meet the specified characteristics, and sometimes they are on a par with industrial equipment, in our article we will share simple tips and tell you how to make a wooden workbench with your own hands.

The main purpose and typical characteristics of the workbench

Regardless of its design features, the workbench is a desktop, necessarily characterized by massive dimensions and stability, and designed for processing structures and products with a wide variety of dimensions. When designing a carpentry workbench, it is important to remember that the dimensions of the processed products directly depend on the dimensions of the workbench, while processing products is practiced both manually and using power tools - a drill and an electric planer. A typical layout of a standard carpentry workbench consists of the following elements:

• Work surface, for the manufacture of which a massive board is used, the thickness of which is not less than 60 mm. For the manufacture of the cover, experts advise giving preference to hardwood, such as oak or beech, using which you do not have to periodically change the working surface of the workbench, due to the high wear resistance of the material.
• A vice designed to hold workpieces. They are mounted on the front surface of the cover. Massive workbenches provide for the installation of several vices, separately designed for fastening small and large parts. Large vices are made of wood, while when choosing a vice of small dimensions, it is better to give preference to metal structures.
• Bench supports are designed to increase the stability of the overall structure, which are connected by longitudinal strips. For their manufacture, it is desirable to use soft wood, linden or pine.
• In the space under the workbench, on supports, you can install drawers designed for tools and any other work accessories.

Joiner's workbench: types of design

When developing a workbench project, it is important to take into account its design features, whether it will be installed permanently in the workshop or will be represented by a mobile structure. If you have opted for a mobile design, the best solution would be to lighten it due to the material used, which should be thinner. The mobile workbench can also be modified with a collapsible table top as well as folding legs. In connection with the listed features, there are three types of workbenches:

• Mobile workbench designed for minor repairs and manipulations with wood blanks;
• Stationary workbench used for processing solid wood blanks and heavy boards. It is easy to manufacture, but "tied" to one place;
• A collapsible or "workbench-transformer" is convenient for its collapsible design, which facilitates the process of replacing its individual parts, and also increases the mobility of the entire structure. You can learn how to make a retractable workbench in specialized manuals.

Carpentry or locksmith workbench: differences

In addition to the classification presented above, workbenches differ in their purpose. There are carpentry and locksmith workbenches. Since the creation of a metal workbench is fraught with a number of difficulties, in this guide we will tell you how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands.

Dimensions and location of the workbench

In the process of creating a workbench, it is important to choose the right location for it. It should be in close proximity to natural light sources, if any. Local light sources will also not be superfluous. We must not forget about the electrical outlets, which should also be close to the workbench. All wires located in the working area are preferably enclosed in a corrugated pipe or box.

Before proceeding with the construction of a workbench, experts recommend determining its final height. To do this, lower your hands down, after which place your palms parallel to the floor. The distance between the floor and the palms is the very height of the desktop, the most convenient for you. Since home-made workbenches are often designed for a single workplace, the table is 1.5 m long and 0.8 m wide.

How to make a workbench video

How to make a workbench in the garage: selection of materials

The selection of material for the manufacture of a workbench is an important stage of the whole work, which determines the final strength and stability of the structure being constructed. Before you make a carpenter's workbench, let's talk about the rational choice of materials needed for its manufacture. According to experts, for the construction of a workbench, planed timber will be the best material, which is suitable for the manufacture of a frame frame and legs.

Ideal dimensions of planed timber:

• for legs - 100x70 mm;
• for jumpers - 100x50 mm;

For countertops, it is better to choose boards with a thickness of 5 cm, or a solid canvas, such as an old wooden door or chipboard, characterized by a laminated surface. It is important to know that it is better to give preference to hardwoods such as oak, maple and beech.

How to make a workbench table? Sequencing

The manufacture of a workbench includes several stages, the fundamental of which are:

• Base assembly;
• Tabletop installation;
• Installation of equipment on a workbench.

Base assembly

The base, as a structural element of the workbench, is a wooden frame, the fastening of which is carried out in such a way that the structure meets all the requirements of rigidity and stability. For these purposes, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a horizontally located jumper between the legs of the workbench, and in the middle, along the entire length of the structure, it is important to install a drawer. Both the jumpers and the tsarga are fixed at a distance of 40-50 cm from the floor. Subsequently, they can be used not only to strengthen the structure, but also to install shelves and drawers for improvised tools. When constructing the base, the bars are fixed by means of a tenon-groove connection, and in those places where this is not possible, self-tapping screws are used. It is preferable to first prepare the grooves and spikes, according to the existing drawing, and only then glue the joints of the beams with wood glue.

If you're building a stationary workbench, one or more of the frame pieces can be attached to the wall, further strengthening the final structure.

Countertop fabrication and installation

• Thinking through the stages of manufacturing a countertop, we must not forget that it should be slightly larger than the base. From the previously prepared thick boards, a massive shield of the previously indicated dimensions is knocked together, for the fastening of which long nails are used, driven in from the inside of the boards. Used boards are pre-fitted to each other to prevent debris from entering the existing slots. For the installation of the tabletop, the use of materials for the manufacture of which pressed chips were used is excluded, since they do not meet the requirements for its stability. Several transverse bars are nailed to the tabletop, for which it is necessary to provide grooves in the base. To these jumpers, with the help of self-tapping screws, horizontally oriented rails are attached, which are needed to slide the drawers.

• The tabletop is bolted to the base. To do this, a recess is made in the upper part of the base bars, using a chisel, and holes are drilled in the table top for bolts, the heads of which are recessed in the lid by drilling recesses of the appropriate diameter in the table top. In order to avoid injuries from falling chips in the process of subsequent work, the countertop is polished several times and covered with drying oil.

Equipment installation

• A vise is attached to the installed tabletop, for the installation of which recesses in the end face of the tabletop should be provided. In the place where the vise is installed, plywood is attached to the underside of the countertop. When installing a vice, they are first applied, the place of their fastening is marked, and then fixed with nuts and bolts. Remember that the vise should not be located on the edge, which contributes to the displacement of gravity during operation.

• In addition to the vise, the classic workbench equipment is wooden clamps, a high-power stationary drill, certain types of turning equipment, and a milling element. In the conditions of a summer residence, it will also be useful to install a grinder and a circular. When installing equipment on a workbench, it is important to consider all the details of convenience and safety, as well as to check the strength of all fasteners. If the equipment is powered by an electrical network, it is important to correctly calculate the power of the equipment connected at the same time, as well as to correctly connect the connection itself.

How to design and make a universal workbench?

This article did not consider in detail the process of manufacturing a metal workbench, and also does not explain how to make an iron workbench in view of the complexity of this process, however, we consider it necessary to consider the option of combining the metalwork and carpentry workbenches, which is especially important in the conditions of country houses and plots.

For this, the same workbench is made, as given in the instructions, however, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe working surface is slightly increased. Sometimes this may require strengthening the base through the use of additional frame elements. When the countertop is installed, one half is covered with a sheet of thin stainless steel, which is fixed with self-tapping screws. Ideally, they cover not only the top of the countertop, but also its end elements.

The metal workbench is a desktop with a wide range of purposes. It allows you to carry out locksmith, repair, electrical work, processing of various materials. A workbench should be in any home workshop. Masters prefer to design it with their own hands to make it as convenient as possible for themselves.

Components of the device

• nuts and screws;
• file and hammer;
• paints with a brush.

The device of a locksmith's workbench is a rigid metal base (made of corners or a square pipe). To decorate the countertop, it is better to use a 50 mm beam. A steel plate up to 6 mm thick is stuffed on top of it. To fasten all metal parts, use welding, but you can also screw in bolts.

Mounting the frame of the workbench and the base for the tabletop

Before proceeding directly to the assembly, carefully look at the prepared drawing. Once again, make sure that the dimensions of the future workbench fit into the dimensions of the room where your metalwork tool will stand (garage, shed or workshop). The installation of the table begins with the creation of the frame:

1. From the corner cut 4 legs of the same size.
2. Connect them at the top with horizontal bars of the same material. Use welding. The result should be a rectangle (top view) of the given size.
3. Additionally, make a stiffness line by once again fastening the legs in the same way with horizontal jumpers at a height of about 15 cm from the floor.
4. If you have a cabinet with drawers on the side under the cover of the workbench, then weld a couple of additional supports for it.

After that, you can start assembling the countertop:

• make holes for bolting along the perimeter of the horizontal metal crossbars;
• cut the boards to the length of the table;
• lay them to each other without cracks and gaps, secure in this position;
• make holes in the wood to match the holes in the corner.

Advice. On the top side of the boards, the holes should have extensions. The bolt heads will go deep into them so that the wooden surface of the countertop remains flat.

The final stage of assembly of the workbench

The tabletop will be ready after metal plating. To do this, simply cut a fragment of the required size from the prepared sheet and fix it to the wood base using self-tapping screws. Please note that after screwing them in, burrs may remain on the metal. They should simply be filed with a file.

If you have provided boxes or shelves in the design of the workbench, use the simple technology for their manufacture. As a material, ordinary 15 mm plywood is suitable. The boxes are assembled with screws. One accounts for about 15-20 pieces. Shelves are easier to attach to the corner, but for boxes you will have to additionally buy guide strips - skids. They are welded to the frame.

The same plywood can be sheathed on the sides of the table and make a screen on its back side. For greater stability, the masters recommend attaching rectangles or pieces of a corner to the bottom of the supports. A welding machine will help in this matter. If necessary, screw a vise to the workbench. Finally, treat all steel structural members with metal paint to avoid rust.

Making a workbench for metal work is not very easy, but it is quite possible if you approach the matter responsibly. But you will be convinced that not a single purchased table can be compared in quality with a hand-assembled product.

How to make a workbench: video

Each master needs a comfortable workplace for working with wood or for finishing manipulations. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.

The device and purpose of the carpentry workbench

A workbench is a stable, massive desktop designed for processing various products using manual or mechanized tools. The larger the dimensions of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.

Typical workbench layout:

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is necessary to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.

Simple stationary workbench it is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It will be possible to use it for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.

Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight is about 30 kg and one vice. It is intended for work with medium-sized products and for minor repairs.

Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.

We draw up a workbench project

The working carpentry table should be made in such a size that it is convenient to work on it.

Height the table directly depends on the growth of the owner, who should be comfortable while standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, a workbench can be from 70-90 cm high.

Lenght and width workbench depends on the area of ​​​​the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.

Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.

Set workbench best by the window, but additional lighting is still needed. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.

folding table design can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench, you can make folding legs or an unscrewing tabletop.

Workbench with your own hands. Blueprints. Video instruction

A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard of your own house or cottage.

Base making

First of all, you should make a frame of their bars with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.

Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the whole structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.

To make the stationary structure even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. You can increase the stability of the carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with self-tapping screws between the top of the frame and the legs and are made of the same material as the table base.

We make a countertop with various fixtures

Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.

1. Boards with the help of metal corners are attached to three bars, which are located on the back of the tabletop. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
2. Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and covered with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.

At the end of the tabletop, a recess is made under vise. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed on the bottom of the workbench.

The vise is applied to their location, and the place for the holes is marked. A vise is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that their lips are flush with the surface of the table top.

Also, on a carpentry workbench, it is necessary to build stops that can be purchased or made by hand. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not fix parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.

Easy enough to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, it will be possible to securely fix parts of any size. Such stops are made of solid wood. You can make them just rectangular, expand upwards or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring”.

Under the pegs in the countertop, you can make holes or build it up with bars of the desired thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and close the bar on the other side. In order to fix any part, the nests should be located at a distance of half from the vice stroke from each other.

The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space for the installation of the desktop, then a collapsible carpentry workbench can be made.

Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement

The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that to connect the parts it is required use of bolted connections.

The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation it is easy to replace any parts. So, for example, every table loosens over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.

Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task at all. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, for which work will bring joy.