Grouting joints on floor tiles. Grouting joints between tiles - the final touch! Materials and tools needed for grouting

Having finished laying the tiles in the kitchen, you proceed to the next stage of work. This is grouting ceramic tiles. The stage is very important, and if you know how to grout the seams on the tiles correctly, you can hide some laying defects. If the grout is done poorly, it will spoil even the perfect tile laying.

Modern technology laying tiles provides for grouting at the final stage of work

Make sure the tile adhesive is completely dry before grouting. Tile joints should be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt, remove all remaining separators (crosses). Some manufacturers claim that the crosses can be left in the seams and covered with grout. But the masters do not advise doing this, since the grout layer above the cross will turn out to be thinner, which means that its color will be different, which can ruin appearance seam.

If you have worked with glazed tiles, you can start grouting right away. If the tile is unglazed, the top and side surface each tile needs to be moistened. This is done so that the unglazed surface does not absorb moisture from the grout. You can moisten the surface of the tile with a garden sprayer. The main thing is not to overdo it with moisturizing, because puddles of water remaining on the surface of the tiles or in the seams can damage the grout, and it will subsequently begin to crack. To dispel your doubts about grouting unglazed tiles, it is best to consult grout manufacturers.

Grouting tiles: video instruction

What is the grout for tile joints

There are two main types of grouting materials - mixtures based on epoxy resin and cement. When choosing a grout for tiles, do not confuse it with elastomer sealing compounds that fill the joints building materials. For example, a silicone seal. It is indeed used for tiles, but not for joints, but to fill voids when laying tiles on another surface. Masters do not recommend using silicone sealant for tile joints.

Epoxy grouts

In addition to epoxy resin, they contain a hardener, which makes the tile joints resistant to chemicals. This is a rather expensive grout, so it is usually used for trade and industrial premises. Working with it is not very convenient - the grout is viscous. If the width of the joints between the tiles is less than 6 mm, and the thickness of the tile itself is no more than 12 mm, then the epoxy grout will not penetrate into the joints, they are very narrow for it.

Cement-based grouts

This is a dry mix that must be diluted with water or liquid latex before use. They also sell ready-made, already diluted cement grouts in the right proportion, but they cost more. Grouts on cement base differ in the additives that are part of the material. Thus, there are three types of cement grouts: dry hardener, latex mixture and industrial cement. Important: such grouts can cause irritation and inflammation of the eyes, adversely affect the skin and lungs. Therefore, during work, use respirators, rubber gloves and goggles.

The cement-based grout is carefully distributed, filling all the empty space between the tiles.

Why you need a sealant

Using a sealant, craftsmen have two goals: to protect the seams and the ceramic tile itself from stains, to protect the seams from excessive absorption of moisture. So that stains do not appear on the surface of unglazed tiles, the lining is covered with a liquid transparent sealant. Most sealants are based on lacquer, acrylic or silicone. When choosing a sealant, consider the type of tile and grout you are using.

What grout for tiles is better

Most craftsmen use Atlas, Ceresit, Hercules grouts. Please note that the seams should be darker than the tile background. Thus, the severity of the geometry is emphasized, and the dirt that inevitably accumulates in the seams over time will not be so noticeable.

When grouting the seams with white grout, be prepared for what appears on it. yellow plaque, and it can not always be cleaned with detergents. If the seams are worn out with a dark-colored material, resort to detergents every 2-3 months. But grout is a mixture of cement with mineral additives that will fade over time. The darker the color of your grout, the longer the color will stay pristine.

Tile grouting is done with a small rubber spatula.

How to grout the seams on the tiles

If you have never seen how ceramic tile grouting is done, a video from the Internet will help you get an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bthe work process. It includes several stages: mixing the grout, holding the solution for a certain time for better wetting, followed by re-mixing the grout, distributing the grout, cleaning the joints from excess grout.

The choice of grout for tiles is quite large in terms of price, color, and quality.

Prepare everything you need for work. You will need:

• respirator (if you plan to work with cement grouts);
• rubber gloves, goggles;
• rubber roller or spatula;
• actual grout;
• bucket, clean cloth, sponge;
• plywood (if we are talking about tiles on the floor);
• sealant;
• paint roller or paint brush (small).

Work procedure

• Grout application

After the grout is diluted in required proportion, lay a slide of grout on the surface of the tile (if you are grouting tile joints on the floor, you can simply lay out the mortar from the bucket, and if you work on the wall, use a rectangular trowel). A trowel is best for spreading the grout.

The trowel should be held diagonally - so the solution will be distributed more evenly over the surface

It should be held at a 30 degree angle to the tile and grouted diagonally. Walk the grater over the surface of the tile 2-3 times, but do not just cover the tile with grout, but try to rub it into the seams, press it in with force. The seam must be tightly filled with mortar. The stronger the resistance, the more the seam will be filled, which means it will be tighter. The basic idea of ​​grouting tile joints is to fill all the corners and voids around the tile from top to bottom. The liquid during the grouting process will leave the grout, so the material will harden, and the seams will be filled with particles of cement and sand.

Do not grout the entire surface at once. First spread the material on a small area no larger than 1-2 square meters. This will give you an idea of ​​how fast the grout sets and how often you will have to stop work and clean the grout.

How to grout tile joints with a grout bag

The grout bag is a very convenient and practical tool for performing a simple but important operation.

If you are working on a surface that is difficult to clean, the use of a grout bag is recommended. It works like a pastry bag for decorating cakes. A metal tip is fixed at its end, the width of which is approximately the same as that of the grout. The bag is filled with grout and squeezed into the seam through the tip.

Working with the bag, place the tip in upper part seam and move it back and forth until the seam is completely filled. For effective filling, work along the entire length of the joint, and not around an individual tile. First fill the horizontal, and then the vertical seams. You should squeeze out a little more grout than you think is necessary, because after the first setting, the grout should be tamped into the joint with a piece of smooth metal tube, the diameter of which is greater than the width of the joint, or jointing. After the pressed grout has set in the seam (it takes about half an hour), the excess should be removed with a stiff brush.

How to remove grout from tiles

• Step 1: dry grout removal

After you have grouted all the joints, use a trowel to remove the excess grout. It should be held at right angles to the tile and moved diagonally relative to the surface of the joints. If you move it vertically or horizontally, the edge of the tool can ruin a seam, removing part of the grout from it. After dry removing all excess grout, allow the seams to set before starting the wet grout.

• Step 2: Wet grout removal

How long should it take after the end of dry grouting? It varies greatly from set to set. Sometimes it takes 25-30 minutes, and sometimes five is enough. The drying rate of the grout depends on the adhesive, tile, type of substrate. Not the last role is played weather.

Wet sponge work mandatory step work, which will return the tile shine, gloss and original color

The remains of grout on the surface of ceramic tiles sometimes dry out quite quickly, while the grout in the seams remains wet for a long time. Use a very damp sponge to evaluate. With it, you can test small plot surfaces. If the grout has set very quickly, wet grout removal will be difficult. The material in the seams should be dense and elastic, but not hard. If the grout is trailing behind your wet sponge, it has not yet set enough, you will have to wait a few more minutes. Start cleaning when the grout remains in place.

If too much time has passed from grouting to wet grouting, you can remove the dried excess with a special abrasive float. It does not leave scratches on the surface of the tile.

For wet grouting of tile joints, you will need a bucket of water and a sponge. First sponge quickly remove most grout. Make gentle circular movements with a sponge, gradually removing particles of sand and cement. Make sure that there are no grooves in the seams. Rinse the sponge from time to time and wring it well.

For a perfect result, the seams are given the same shape and depth.

Inspect the grout seams and smooth them out if necessary with the help of jointing (a wooden stick with a sharpened end). It is very important to give the seams the same depth and shape.

• Step 3: final cleaning

When all seams are aligned, the surface of the tiles should be cleaned again. This is done with a sponge, which must be constantly rinsed in water and squeezed well. The purpose of this cleaning is to remove all grout residue from the tile surface. After that, the seams should dry for 15 minutes.

• Step 4: Apply Sealant

Sealant can cover both tiles and grout when the tile joints are completely hardened. If you will cover only the seams, use a small brush, if both tiles and grout - a small roller.

Sealant treatment of seams will increase their resistance to mechanical and chemical influences

After completing the work, put a sheet of plywood on the tile and forbid the household to walk on it until the grout is completely dry. Some types of grout dry within two weeks, so as not to ruin the seams, check the required drying time in the manufacturer's instructions.

Most often, tiles are used to finish floors in bathrooms and kitchens. The choice of color of ceramic tiles and images on it is very wide, so everyone can choose the most suitable option for yourself. Installation rules require leaving a gap between the tiles, the so-called seams. This is required in order to hide irregularities when laying with your own hands. Then the seams are processed with a special grout, which makes the lining more attractive. It is not difficult to do this work yourself, the main thing is to choose the right mixture.

Choosing the right grout for floor tiles help avoid problems in the surface finishing process. The main criteria are the color of the mixture, its purpose, composition and properties.

1. Colour. For many people, this item is of paramount importance, because from color solution depends on the appearance of the whole room. In order for the tiles on the floor to look like a monolith, the grout for the joints is selected to match the tone of the coating. Today you do not need to run around the shops and look for paint desired color, just add color to the white mixture. The most daring designers choose contrast.
2. Appointment. For grouting joints on the floor, the standard mixture is not suitable. Since the load on the surface is intense, a more tenacious grout is required.
3. Composition and properties. The composition of mixtures for processing joints may include Portland cement, alabaster, epoxy resins, gypsum, etc. The properties of the mixture depend on the composition. If it is necessary to grout the seams on the floor in the bathroom, in which the level of humidity is high, then epoxy compounds should be used, since they are moisture resistant and more durable.

Among the varieties of grout mixtures, there are also:

• Cement-sand. Suitable for rooms with gentle conditions (moderate temperature and humidity), and the base is made of concrete or brick. Used for decorative stitching.
• Polymer. Made from silicone. Resistant to temperature changes. Suitable for rooms with a "warm floor" system, and are also used for seamless laying of porcelain stoneware or stone, followed by polishing.
• Polymer cement. Designed for rooms of the same type as cement-sand. However, their composition contains polymer components that make the composition more durable and moisture resistant.
• Epoxy-cement. Just like epoxy, they are used in the process of internal and external works. Thanks to chemical properties suitable for use in harsh environments.

When choosing a grout for floor tiles, you need to consider, among other things, whether the mixture is compatible with the adhesive on which the flooring is mounted, and the width of the joints. As a rule, manufacturers of ceramic tiles and mixtures themselves give appropriate recommendations.

How to properly seal the seams?

Grout mixtures are available in dry and ready-made form. The convenience of the powder is that you can use it as needed, and it is stored for a long time. However, when breeding, it is quite difficult to calculate the required amount of dry mix.

Finished grout - the most convenient option. It is an elastic mass packed in jars or buckets. However, an open container has short term storage. Therefore, if you decide to rub the seams with your own hands, it will be financially profitable to purchase dry mixes.

As a rule, it is possible to rub the seams a day after laying the tiles. Before you begin to process the gaps between the floor tiles, you will need the following tools:

1. Water;
2. Brush;
3. Container for mixing the solution;
4. Paint mixer or drill with a special nozzle;
5. Trowel or rubber spatula small size;
6. Foam sponge or clean rag.

The grout mixture is kneaded in small portions, so in order to achieve its uniformity, you can get by with a spatula or trowel. If you need large volumes, you will need a mixer.

Before applying the grout, the tile must be cleaned of glue, dust and dirt. The seams are cleaned with a damp cloth, and right before processing they are moistened with a foam sponge to reduce the absorption of liquid from the grout. Also, experts advise treating the seams with an antifungal agent.

The next step is to dilute the powder (if a dry mix is ​​\u200b\u200bused) according to the instructions on the package. It is important to remember that the grout must be plastic. If it turns out to be too liquid, the strength will decrease significantly. After mixing, the solution should stand for about 10 minutes, then it can be applied.

Work is being carried out from the far corner of the room to the door.

Grouting on ceramic tiles is carried out using a flexible spatula. For a more accurate application of the solution, you can use a pastry bag. The seam must be completely filled with the mixture so that there are no voids inside, the excess is removed. The borders of the grout must necessarily coincide with the surface of the tile. When the solution dries, it must be slightly moistened with water to prevent cracking. It should be borne in mind that the solution may “sag” when it dries, so it is necessary to rub the seams twice or thrice.

The places where the tiles adjoin the wall are sealed silicone sealant. This is additional protection from the flow of water and the appearance of fungus.

To process 3 sq. m floor with your own hands, it will take about 20 minutes.

Finishing tiles

After the grout dries, you can proceed to finishing seams. But how do you know if the mixture has seized? This can be checked with a foam rubber sponge. It needs to be soaked clean water and draw along the seam line. If the solution is not frozen, it will follow the sponge. If the grout has set, it will stay in place.

Regardless of the nature of the room, the gaps must be re-treated with an antiseptic. Thus, the appearance of mold or fungus will be minimized. If we are talking about the bathroom, then there is a high probability that water will accumulate on the floor. To prevent liquid from penetrating into the seams, it is better to coat them with epoxy. This will be the last stage of do-it-yourself grouting work.

Next comes the turn of the tile. Using a foam sponge, wet cleaning is performed, which gives the work a finished look. This is done carefully, the sponge is driven in a circular motion. For more high-quality cleaning before that, you can walk on the floor with a dry brush to sweep out the dust.

If glossy tiles are laid on the floor, then at the very end it is necessary to treat it with glass cleaner and polish it.

It is very important to monitor the condition of the seams. As they say, cleanliness is the key to health. The cleaner the gaps are, the less likely it is for pathogens, fungus, and mold to thrive. It is necessary to carry out general cleaning at least once or twice a month. For this you can use citric acid, vinegar, soapy water or detergents with a disinfecting effect. The good old disinfectant is chlorine. If the grout has lost its original color, it can be bleached with soda and peroxide. You can wash the seams, for example, with an old toothbrush, but it is more convenient and faster to do this with a steam cleaner.

The beauty of floor tiles depends not only on the quality of the facing material itself, but also on the right choice of grout for the joints. Take care of your floors and they will last you long years. Leave comments on the article in the form below!

High-quality tile laying does not guarantee its long service life. Therefore very milestone considered grouting between ceramic products. It is from this final step that the final quality of the work done, the appearance of the composition, its operational capabilities, and durability directly depend. In addition, it is necessary to take into account the features of the room where the tiles are installed, for example, in the bathroom or in the kitchen.

The seams between tiles represent the gap or distance at the junction from one ceramic element to another. There are certain and generally accepted standards according to which the technology of laying tiles is carried out. The gap left between the parts is approximately 2 to 5 mm. However, these indicators take into account only the average parameters of the tile, and the larger it is, the wider the seams should remain.

This approach carries a rational grain, which is due to a purely practical aspect. In addition, it is necessary to wipe the seam in the bathroom in order to exclude the penetration of moisture, which is detrimental to the base of the bathroom floor. As a result, it is the seams that are responsible for the condition and how long the shower room will be in. Here are some other advantages of competent grouting:

• improves ventilation of the base of the wall or floor;
• the displacement of the tile is leveled;
• protection against water, dirt, fungus;
• reliable adhesion of all surfaces;
• attractive appearance.

Choosing a solution

It is necessary to wipe the seam correctly so that no troubles occur during operation. To do this, you need to choose qualitative composition having high performance. Today this aspect given less attention than required, however, this can have very unfortunate consequences. To choose the right mixture, it is worthwhile to select according to the following parameters:

Wall joints between tiles can be treated with standard grout, special grout or varnish. After a certain period of time, the bathroom coating loses its qualities, so you should choose a special mixture, characterized by reliable adhesion of the composition to the surfaces. Thus, a composition having a loose structure is not suitable here.

We prepare the solution

Under the elimination of seams, mixtures packaged at the enterprise are usually used. On the one hand, it is very convenient, fast, and the selection takes a minimum of time, and is carried out for each specific case. In addition, being in its original packaging, the powder, unlike liquid solutions or varnish, can be stored for quite some time. long term. After all, it is not always possible to calculate the first time right amount material. Therefore, the mixture is poured gradually, adjusting the density of the solution.

On the other hand, manufacturing companies offer ready-made and packaged formulations in special containers. Weak side this method of application - the impossibility of storing opened packages, i.e. you will have to use the entire mass or throw out an unused amount of grout. Thus, kneading the composition for the seams on your own is much more profitable than purchasing finished products.

At present, making a grout mass with your own hands is quite simple. An alabaster blank will do and a certain amount of water. Some time after stirring, a white substance is formed, which is applied to the seam. However, when dried, the mass may crumble, which makes it impossible to use it on a long-term basis. Silicone, gypsum additives or varnish will not fundamentally change the situation.

Worth knowing! For the preparation of high-quality grout, it is best to have the necessary experience. Otherwise, the resulting mass will be Low quality, which will lead to its crumbling after drying. It might be better to go with the purchase option.

How to apply?

In order to qualitatively wipe the seams between the tiles, you need to prepare the following list of tools:

• a small rubber spatula;
• capacity;
• water;
• foam sponge;
• tassel;
• mixer.

Filling the container with water, it is necessary to add a grout solution to it in small portions. Under this case, you will need a medium-sized container, with the exception of when working with large volumes. The mixture is brought to a homogeneous state and applied to the surface with a trowel or spatula. It goes something like this:

• cleaning the base from debris, dirt;
• treatment with agents directed against microorganisms;
• seams are wetted with a wet brush for reliable adhesion;
• prepare some mastic and apply it to the seam;
• carefully tamp the mortar between the tiles with a spatula;
• if there are no voids, then remove the excess;
• after the solution dries, moisten it with water - this will avoid cracks;
• must be applied to the seams between the baseboard and the wall.

Need to know! Grouting the seams on the wall and floor carries certain differences. For example, the wall surface should be processed from top to bottom, and the sealant is applied last. Flooring is filled from the far corner to the exit, by analogy with laying tiles.

Let the tub dry for 24 hours before re-treating protective equipment against impact, rot, mold, fungus. This will significantly reduce the risk of the appearance of various microorganisms for the most vulnerable areas. One way or another, moisture will accumulate on the surface of the bathroom floor, naturally, for it, the seam on the tile will be like a channel for a river. Thus, to complete the work, it remains simply to apply epoxy resin.

After the bathroom has acquired its final form, you need to take care of attractive premises. You can use a grout marker tile joints to remove traces of putty. Usually the surface is rubbed in 2-3 approaches, if the mastic is not yet completely dry, cleaning is postponed until it is completely dry.

The remains of the solution on the ceramics are removed with water and a spatula. Wet the excess and then gently scrape it up with a scraper. The remaining stains are removed with a damp cloth or sponge. If the tile has ribbed or uneven surface then cleaning is done with a toothbrush. At the final stage, it is better to use a glass cleaner that polishes the surface well.

Need to know! It is necessary to clean the mastic that has not yet fully hardened, otherwise it will be very difficult to soak it, and for products with relief surface it becomes very difficult.

Caring for bathroom ceramics is, for obvious reasons, different from a normal room. Approximately once every two months, it is necessary to carry out a thorough cleaning here using special detergents or folk in the form of lemon, vinegar, soap and others. Bleaching is carried out using hydrogen peroxide and soda. They do an excellent job with harmful microorganisms, dirt and fungus.

Video instruction

Ceramic tiles are one of the most commonly used finishing materials, which can be lined with walls or put it on the floor. The tile has many advantages that ensure its popularity. Such an advantage can be called the aesthetics of the tile. However, it is quite easy to spoil the appearance of the finish if the grouting is done carelessly.

To properly grout, you need to correctly select materials, prepare work surface to their application and adhere to a certain order of work.

What material to choose for grouting tiles on the floor?

The mixtures used to fill the joints are divided into several main categories, depending on the basis:

• cement-sand;
• epoxy;
• epoxy cement;
• polymeric;
• polymer cement.

The first type of grout can be applied if a gentle atmosphere with moderate humidity reigns in the room. In addition, the tiles must be laid on a solid base (concrete or brick) without the risk of deformation. For the manufacture of such grout mixtures, white cement and clean fine sand.

Polymer-cement grouts are applicable in the same conditions as cement-sand. Their difference is the use of polymer additives in the manufacture, which give the composition moisture resistance and strength. In such grouts, various small defects, such as cracks, are less likely to form.

Epoxy and epoxy-cement compounds perform grouting at outer cladding. However, even at internal works their use is permitted. They are well tolerated by any operating conditions and impact. external environment. They are not afraid of high humidity, neither a base prone to deformation, nor an aggressive environment. They are recommended for grouting tiles on bathroom floors where the humidity is very high and temperature fluctuations are not uncommon.

For the manufacture of polymer compositions based on silicone. Such mixtures are used when performing "seamless" masonry with further polishing. These compositions are characterized by high elasticity, due to which they tolerate temperature changes well. Because of this, they are often used when grouting when laying tiles on a warm floor. Inside the seam, such a mixture is injected with a syringe.

The optimal material must be selected not only by composition, but also taking into account other factors:

• type of facing tiles;
• compatibility with tile adhesive;
• operating conditions;
• seam widths;
• tile colors.

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Rules for grouting

For grouting tiles on the floor, you will need some tools. The main one is a rubber spatula 6-8 cm thick. But before applying it, it is necessary to clear the space in the seams. There should be no dirt, dust, etc. between the tiles. To do this, you can use a thin sharp awl. When performing these works, you need to be as careful as possible, since the hard part of the awl can damage the glaze of the tile. If you plan to purchase a tool for work, then it is most convenient to buy special set, which includes everything you might need to clean and grout the seams.

When each seam has been thoroughly cleaned, they should be washed with a damp sponge. Between the tiles there should not be even the slightest sign of tile adhesive. If you managed to achieve this result, then you can proceed to the preparation of the grout mixture.

For premises medium size in most apartments, 400-600 g of grout is enough. Its consumption should be indicated in the instructions, so that you can calculate how much material you need. You can also find the proportions of water and powder in the instructions. It is best to dilute the mixture with a special paint mixer. This will not take much time. The density of the product should be the same as that of thick homemade sour cream. When the mixture reaches this consistency, it is necessary to leave it to stand for 5 minutes, mix again, after which it can be used.

To make the grout fit better, it is recommended to wet the joints before applying it in an area of ​​​​1-1.5 m². On average, it takes 15-20 minutes to mop 2-3 m² of floor. When this is done, you need to go over the seams with a slightly damp cloth to remove excess filler. This will ensure that the joints are filled to the same depth, and the surface of each will be even and smooth. When grouting, you need to strive to ensure that the seams between the tiles are slightly recessed. This will emphasize its geometry.

To form a seam, use a special spatula made of dense rubber. For these purposes, you can use not only a rubber cord, but also a piece of cable. It will take 10-12 hours for the grout to completely dry. After that, it is necessary to wash the entire surface with a sponge, which will remove excess mixture. If you grouted carefully, you should end up with an attractive floor surface.

When the main work of laying the tiles is left behind, you can proceed to its final stage - grouting. This work plays very important role, after all, a well-made grout will be able to mask tile laying defects, if any, and, conversely, a bad grout will completely destroy the impression of an impeccably executed installation. In addition, the empty spaces between the tiles with poor-quality grout blacken over time from fungus and mold. Therefore, it is worth giving Special attention the question of how to grout the seams on the tiles in order to improve the overall appearance of the coating, as well as provide it with additional protection.

Video instruction

What are grout compositions?

Grout for tile joints is of two types:

• cement based;
• epoxy based.

Cement grouts inexpensive and easy to use, and therefore the most popular in home use. They are presented in the form of dry mixes with the addition of modified polymers and are diluted with water or latex before starting work. Modified polymers give the grout material resistance to moisture, and this allows it to be used even in outdoor open areas. On sale are also ready mixes, which do not require additional preparation, but they are usually much more expensive.

If the joint during installation turned out to be wider than 3 mm, then it is better to purchase cement grout with the addition of sand, and if the joints are smaller, then it is recommended to use ordinary cement-based grout.

Safety Tip: Cement grouts can cause inflammation of the skin, eyes, and lungs. Therefore, when working with these materials, be sure to wear safety glasses, a respirator and rubber gloves.

Epoxy grouts contain epoxy resin and hardener. Such compositions perfectly tolerate mechanical, chemical and thermal effects, they are much more stable and stronger than cement counterparts, but they are also more expensive. They are used mainly in industrial premises. At home, it is reasonable to use such a grout only if the width of the joints between ceramic tiles is more than 6 mm (since it is quite viscous, it will not be able to penetrate narrower joints).

Epoxy grouts are a mixture of 2 components: paste and catalyst, which are mixed immediately before use. The proportions of these two components must be accurate, so you need to use a scale.

What is the best tile grout? Experts recommend buying epoxy grout for ceramic tile joints, as it is more beautiful, stronger and more reliable. It will last up to 50 years, perfectly protecting the cladding from moisture, fungi and bacteria, as well as from exposure to chemical substances. If you still decide to buy a cement-based grout, then it is advisable to buy latex for it.

As for the color of the grout, this is a matter of taste: you can choose the grout according to the main color of the ceramic tile or prefer a classic light tone.

Grout Width

What should be the width of the grout joints? A lot of it depends on personal preference. Some, for example, like narrow seams. Excessively wide seams suppress the tile visually. Square ceramic tiles ranging in size from 10 to 60 cm will look neat with 3 mm joints. wrong shape tiles become less noticeable with wider joints, but no more than 12 mm. A joint with a width of more than 12 mm will become stronger if coarse sand is added to the grout, but even this will not always protect it from cracking.

To the same extent, it is not recommended to make the joints too narrow, since it will not be possible to fill them properly with grout, as a result of which water can seep into the lining. good craftsmen know that the quality of the cladding will be on high level with a sufficient width of the joints, when they can be well filled with grout. And this means that the seams will be waterproof, and they will also be able to absorb the deformation of the tiles during expansion or contraction. This ability of seams is reduced many times over with a width of less than 1 millimeter.

Grouting ceramic tiles: how it's done

How to properly grout ceramic tiles? First of all, we check whether the glue is completely dry. Then we carry out a thorough cleaning of the seams from the remnants of glue, dirt and dust, remove the remaining spacers. When working with unglazed tiles, it must be moistened before grouting, otherwise it will draw water from the grout. Glazed tiles do not need to be wetted.

All grouting materials must be kept for some time in the room where grouting will be carried out. Optimum temperature for grouting - 18-25 ° С.

You can see the grouting process in detail in the video below - grouting ceramic tiles video. It consists of the following steps:

• mixing the grout composition;
• maintaining the grout mixture for its better wetting;
• re-mixing grout;
• grout distribution;
• cleaning excess grout.

The grout is mixed with water or latex additives. Dry polymer grouts are mixed exclusively with water. In any case, add such an amount of liquid that the resulting mixture is easily distributed. This is important to remember, because excess liquid will weaken the grout (we adhere to the proportions indicated on the packaging of the material).

The grout is mixed by adding the dry component to the liquid

We mix by gradually adding the dry component to the liquid (at first we pour only three-quarters of the total amount of liquid). After mixing all the dry ingredients with the liquid, add the remaining liquid in small portions, constantly checking the consistency of the grout. Mixing is carried out using a rectangular trowel or an electric mixer. The stirrer must be completely immersed in the solution so that air does not enter the mixture, because air bubbles weaken it.

All components are mixed, most of the lumps are broken. Let the solution stand for 10 minutes to soak. Mix the grout again so that no lumps remain. If it is necessary to prepare several portions of the grout, then you need to be sure that their composition will be identical. Therefore, when mixing new portions, we try to observe the proportions and order of connection of the components, and so that the color of the grout is constant, when mixing the next portion, we add grout from each package to it.

Advice! When purchasing multiple packs of grout, make sure they are all from the same serial number.

The finished grout should have sufficient density so that it is kept in a slide when spreading.

Materials and tools needed for grouting

• Scraper with rubber nozzle
• Grout
• Sponge
• Bucket
• A wooden stick with a pointed end, jointing, or a toothbrush
• Plywood
• net cloth
• paint roller
• Respirator (for working with cement grouts)
• Rubber gloves
• Protective glasses

We spread the grout with a slide on the surface of the cladding.

The grout is laid out in a slide on the surface of the tile

To distribute the solution, we use a trowel (respectively for walls or floors). Apply the grout to the tile diagonally, holding the grater at an angle of 30° to it. We try not only to cover the seams with mortar, but also to force it into the seams in order to fill them tightly, because their strength depends on the density of filling the seams.

The grout is applied at an angle of 30 degrees to the tile

We do not grout over the entire surface at once. First, we distribute the solution in a small area (no more than 2 square meters) to find out how quickly this grout sets. If it seizes quickly, you need to stop and do the cleaning. Sometimes it is possible to spread the grout over an area of ​​up to 9m2, and only then start cleaning, in other cases it is necessary to cover only small areas and clean them.

The first grout removal is dry.

To do this, use a grater, holding it at a right angle to the tiles and moving it diagonally to the grout joints (so that the edge of the tool does not accidentally remove part of the grout from the joint). When the excess is removed, the grout should be allowed to set before cleaning. While grouting and cleaning, do not forget to stir the grout periodically so that it retains its softness before applying to the following areas.

During the grouting process, periodically stir the grout so that it retains its softness.

The second removal of the grout mixture is wet. When should it be started? The time it takes for the grout to fully set before wet cleaning varies greatly. It may take 5 minutes, or it may take 20 minutes or more. The rate of evaporation of moisture from the grout directly depends on the adhesive and tile, the type of substrate, as well as weather conditions.

Wet cleaning of the cladding surface

For wet cleaning, you need a bucket of water and a sponge (it is desirable that the sponge be with rounded edges - this will not form grooves in the seams). With soft circular motions, we remove particles of sand and cement. We proceed carefully to avoid the formation of grooves in grout joints. At a time, we clean only a small area (1-2m2), wetting the sponge often enough to wash off the grout particles that have penetrated into the pores of the tiles. We try to rinse the sponge well and wring it out as hard as possible, shake off excess water from our hands.

At the second stage, we inspect the grout seams so that they are all neat. With the help of jointing, a toothbrush or a wooden stick with a pointed end, we align and smooth the seams.

Line and smooth seams with stitching

Then we trim their edges with a sponge. Ideally, the seams should be even on top, not convex, although most seams become slightly concave afterward, but this is acceptable. It is important that in the end they all turn out to be of the same depth and shape.

The seams are leveled, now it remains to carefully clean the surface of the cladding from the remaining traces of grout. We act carefully so that the sponge does not wipe the grout from the seams. After this cleaning, grout residues must be completely removed from the surface of the tiles. Seams should dry for 15 minutes.

The grout remaining on the surface of the tile is removed with gauze or a soft, clean cloth.

Job done, put the plywood sheet on the floor and don't let anyone walk on the floor until the grout is completely dry. Some grouts take up to two or more weeks to dry (check the drying time in the manufacturer's instructions).