Proper laying of aerated concrete walls in the bathroom. Is it possible to do without waterproofing in the bathroom and toilet

The article was written with the participation of PROSEPT specialists

The battles around aerated concrete blocks between their fans and ardent opponents have not stopped for decades, and one of the parties is unlikely to ever win. This material has a lot of positive properties, such as low thermal conductivity, good geometry, ease of processing, environmental friendliness and fire resistance. These and other parameters attract private developers, but there are also characteristic features, rather, with a minus sign. For example, the need for facade finishing, a large mass of high-density blocks, as well as increased hygroscopicity and the resulting deterioration in frost resistance, which must be reckoned with. Most copies are broken precisely around the ability of blocks to absorb moisture, which leads to an increase in thermal conductivity and a decrease in frost resistance. With the help of PROSEPT specialists, we will try to figure out how to protect aerated concrete from the negative influence of external factors.

In this article, we'll look at:

• Features of aerated concrete blocks and their operation.
• How to protect stone unfinished.

Features of aerated concrete blocks and their operation

Aerated concrete is one of the varieties of cellular concrete, characterized by a porous structure, it is characterized not only by high vapor permeability, but also by high moisture saturation. And if the first property is attributed to the advantages of the material, since there will be a healthy microclimate in houses built and finished in compliance with the technology, then the second is considered a disadvantage.

During the production process, the gas that formed pores in the blocks is displaced by air, which determines their open structure.

Because of this structure, blocks are saturated with moisture more than other masonry materials of both their group and other varieties. And the smaller the density of the block, the more active this process. Regardless of the brand of blocks, it is difficult to imagine a real situation when the house is completely immersed in water and soaked. But prolonged rains, watering walls even with large overhangs, are the norm for some regions. Therefore, how critical the impact of precipitation is depends both on the parameters of aerated concrete blocks and on operating conditions.

Ideally, during the construction process, the contour of the house should be closed before the start of the cold season, at a minimum, the draft roof should already protect the walls. Also, all block manufacturers recommend protecting walls either using a system of ventilated facades, or with decorative plasters, or tiles / stone, or in some other way, depending on the chosen style and financial capabilities. But in practice, this does not always work out - future homeowners do not have enough time or money, and more often both, and there can be a long interval between construction and facade work. That's when FORUMHOUSE users have questions - what to do with the unfinished?

Sergey Spb

I built an attic house from aerated concrete 30 cm D300 (foundation slab, walls, roof, ceiling, partitions, double-glazed windows). I planned to make a facade with insulation next year, but a crisis came. The house has been standing for two winters, construction has been suspended. Now the question is - the means do not allow you to do everything at once. What can go wrong with a house made of aerated concrete without finishing the facade? Is it possible and worth while to do work inside the house (communications, floors, walls), or the facade - in the first place.

Regarding the use for the construction of load-bearing walls from a block that is considered heat-insulating, and not structural, Sergey Spb To the participants in the topic who raised this issue, he replied that the engineers with whom he consulted, it was his solutions that were considered viable. Regarding the question asked about the façade, the responses from the practitioners are as follows.

Konstantin Ya.

If the conversation was not about the D300 and not in St. Petersburg (as I understand it), I would say that you can leave it for more than a year. I'm not saying that the D300 will fall apart - I just don't know how it will behave without finishing. And so, I have a D600, 250 mm has been standing normally for more than ten years without exterior decoration, of which a little less than ten are fully heated (for a long time already with interior decoration). In principle, if meltwater from a leaky roof does not constantly flow through it (aerated concrete), freezing and thawing alternately, then what will happen to it. At least five years, at least ten.

alexpan

For eight years the house has been standing without external finishing, the wall thickness is 300 mm, plus internal plaster - the flight is normal. We are already living, this year I will finish the kitchen and next year I will work on a ventilated facade without insulation. So do not be afraid, everything is in its turn.

There is a certain algorithm for performing work in aerated concrete houses.

Sleng

Nevertheless, experts advise to play it safe, especially since it does not require excessive financial costs.

Evgeny KuznetsovProsept Technician

The main disadvantage of aerated concrete is its low frost resistance in the absence of protection from moisture. Therefore, it is recommended to finish the exterior walls of aerated concrete immediately. In the case when there is not enough money for facade work, or the priority is interior decoration and settlement, then facade work can be delayed for several years by protecting the outer walls from moisture. The most inexpensive option for the conservation of aerated concrete is the treatment with a water-repellent protective impregnation -water repellent .

In addition to walls in general, there are other risk areas in which excessive moisture accumulation is fraught with, at a minimum, cracking, and, at a maximum, destruction of the block.

scvirtl

There was a misfortune (it is not yet clear whether it is big or not). At the end of the construction of the house from aerated concrete, 2 troubles appeared:

1. Cracks under almost every window, this is due to the fact that the inside was made in cold weather, and moisture accumulated on the windows and from there into the blocks under them. The blocks got very wet. A battery dried them inside. Outside, when frosts came and the block froze, such cracks appeared. How critical is this, and how can it be fixed?
2. Under the door in the kitchen to the future veranda, blocks began to collapse.

How to be?

Evgeny Kuznetsov

In this case, as in many others, the main problem is that the gas blocks freely absorbed moisture, which then destroyed them from the inside. It is important to prevent waterlogging during the operation of aerated concrete. The situation with an abnormally high impact of moisture on aerated concrete during its subsequent freezing leads to its destruction. In order to avoid such results, it is worth paying special attention to the arrangement of window sill drains, cornices, each canopy and spillway systems, thereby eliminating the likelihood of constant contact of water with gas blocks. That is, to ensure the drainage of water from those areas where waterlogging is possible. Especially carefully you need to think about protecting the masonry in the basement area. If water and snow are not in constant contact with aerated concrete, precipitation will not cause significant damage to the structure.

According to Yevgeny, serious repair and restoration of the material will be required to solve the described problem. However, simple steps should be taken to prevent similar occurrences in the future. The main thing is to prevent water absorption, you can treat the house hydrophobizing impregnation just as we do with shoes, for example, by treating them during the rainiest season.

The water repellent for aerated concrete is based on silicones, these are organosilicon compounds. They are affordable, inexpensive for the manufacturer, which means that the price of processing a house for a builder is acceptable.

It serves as protection for the house for several years, and thanks to the processing, many problems that arise under the influence of moisture can be avoided.

Another possible problem is the appearance of mold. By itself, aerated concrete is considered biostable, but this is in a dry state, with waterlogging, damage by pathogenic microflora is quite possible. There can be a lot of reasons for such a phenomenon, and it is necessary to fight, first of all, with them, but it is quite possible to remove traces of the vital activity of microorganisms.

kondorand

Ask for advice on fighting mold / fungi. Aerated concrete house, 250 mm thick, 1st floor - aerated concrete, 2nd - attic with aerated concrete gables. Pie walls from outside to inside: siding, ventilation gap, windproof membrane, insulation, aerated concrete, glued plasterboard sheets, wallpaper. Overlapping between floors - wooden beams, insulation between them, thickness 200 mm. On the ceiling of the first floor there is a vapor barrier lined with a wooden board. Residential only the first floor, the second floor without insulation. The house was built 2 years ago, insulation - last summer. They started heating in mid-October, moved to live in November.

At kondorand the temperature in the house is about 20-22⁰С, outside there have not yet been severe frosts, from -2 to +2⁰С (Leningrad region), and constant dampness on the street. Ventilation has been made in the kitchen (hood) and in the bathroom, plastic windows are often damp, micro-ventilation does not help, and if you open wider, the house gets cold. On the walls and corners (especially if both adjoining walls are external), mold has grown in patches, mostly a little above the baseboards. Our user is interested in the question of what to do now.

As Evgeny Kuznetsov notes, it is problematic and wrong to make a “diagnosis” without a full-time study of the construct, the appearance of mold provokes high humidity, and this phenomenon can have several reasons:

• Insufficient thermal insulation, as a result of which condensation occurs, as a solution to the problem - the elimination of cold bridges.
• The general construction of the walls and the sequence of the wall "pie". The wall must be built in such a way as to ensure the increasing vapor permeability of materials as you move from the inner layers of the finish to the outer. The solution is an additional ventilation device.
• Poor waterproofing between the wall material and the foundation, and as a result - constant recharge from groundwater. A fairly common problem, especially in swampy regions. One of the solutions is to carry out cut-off hydrophobization. This method is often used in construction when it is necessary to stop the rise of groundwater through the capillaries of the walls of the finished structure. The procedure is a forced saturation of the walls with a hydrophobic solution from the inside.

Whatever the cause, it must be eliminated.

Evgeny Kuznetsov

Reconstruction is necessary, otherwise the fight against mold will give results only for a short time. After completion of structural work, you can begin to remove the mold. We advise you to treat the necessary places with a composition that removes mold fungi. Old wallpaper can be replaced at will. If it is not possible to make a full repair, then after removing microorganisms and treating with a protective composition against mold, you can paint the affected areas. Compositions for removing and protecting against bio-injuries such as mold, fungus, moss, algae are very often used in rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms, and work effectively.

How to protect stone unfinished

Sometimes the construction of a house is divided into several stages - in one year the foundation / basement, in the next - a box, and only in the third season the roof. It happens that this happens unplanned, due to lack of finances, but in any case, conservation measures are required.

Igor_Chaikin

Is it possible to leave an unfinished box from the insi-block in the winter, 2/3 of the first floor of a two-story house has been rebuilt. It was planned to build immediately, but finances played a role. Now the construction will be at least 2-3 years in stages. Roof after a year. How can and is it possible to protect an insi-block for several seasons?

Insi-block is one of the varieties of autoclaved aerated concrete, which differs from analogues only in the presence of a groove connection system. Therefore, the conservation process will not differ from that of any other aerated concrete or ceramic, which is also not recommended to be left unprotected in a similar situation.

Evgeny Kuznetsov

As already mentioned, wetting of aerated concrete is undesirable, and the simplest way to prevent it is treatment with a water repellent. In order to “freeze” the construction site for some time, it is necessary to carefully treat the aerated concrete from all sides with an impregnating composition. For this, a regular garden sprayer of sufficient capacity is suitable. Additionally, if the appearance of the roof before the onset of cold weather is not planned, you can cover the upper edge of the walls with a film.

Depending on the stage at which the construction stopped, the foundation or basement, as well as concrete floors, can be protected in the same way. Like aerated concrete, concrete is able to absorb moisture, if the off-season is generous with showers, the slab can be soaked so that it will “tear” when frozen.

However, the question arises of how impregnation will affect further construction or finishing work.

Evgeny Kuznetsov

The logical question is whether I can subsequently apply, for example, plaster on aerated concrete, because the surface will “repel” water, and the plaster will not stick. According to the regulations for the plastering work, the surface must be primed before applying the plaster. A good primer always has surfactants in its composition, so the primer will calmly lie on your aerated concrete, and the plaster will be perfectly fixed.

Whether to leave your walls or unfinished without protection at all, or to play it safe and walk with a water repellent, is a private matter for each owner. But there is such a choice, and the technology is quite accessible in all respects.

You can learn more about the features of gas blocks in, about the features of masonry - in the material. In the video - about a chalet-style gas-block house.

Gas and foam concrete are characterized by high vapor permeability, and this is the reason for the nuances of the selection of building materials for the interior cladding of buildings. In a warm room, there is always water vapor in the air, which easily penetrates deep into the aerated concrete wall, cools there and condenses. The block is damp. To prevent this, it is important to scrupulously select finishing building materials for the interior, whose performance vapor permeability should be much lower than the walls. The choice of facade cladding material is also determined by the same, which should have even greater vapor permeability so as not to prevent the free exit of moisture vapor accumulated by the walls to the outside.

Attention: Vapor barrier of walls made of aerated concrete or gas silicate is carried out inside the premises, and not along the facade. At the same time, it does not matter: there is insulation of the building outside or inside, or it is not, and also the facade is lined or it was abandoned.

Waterproofing for the bathroom and toilet is subject to special requirements due to high humidity and significant temperature fluctuations, especially in the shower cabin. The sequence of work directly depends on the material used.

If the waterproofing is performed in compliance with the technological requirements, the formed layer will last for a long time.

Types of materials

• coating: mastics, varnishes, pastes, rubberized compounds;
• penetrating;
• liquid or bulk: solutions or mixtures;
• rolled, involving gluing or surfacing on the surface to be protected.

For the floor, as a rule, coating or gluing materials are chosen, the basis of which is bitumen, polymer or rubber.

For a room, it is better to purchase penetrating ones. Roll waterproofing is rarely used here, as it requires special care in the performance of work.

What kind of waterproofing will be used in a particular case depends on the scope of work and the scope of a particular composition.

Be sure to take into account the characteristics of the material that was used in the construction of the building. For it is necessary to use non-flammable compounds. The brick is characterized by an increased ability of binding components; aerated concrete is characterized by high roughness.

We protect drywall

Ceiling waterproofing should begin with a primer on the surface to be protected. The composition should be intended for the treatment of drywall, which is highly absorbent. Then a layer of mastic or water-repellent liquid is applied.

Waterproofing material should be not only on the surface of the ceiling, but also on the walls: where the shower cabin will be installed.

When using drywall in the bathroom, you must:

• check the presence of the GKL mark on each sheet;
• provide additional ventilation with a regulator.

Sequence of work

In the most general case, waterproofing is performed as follows:

1. Preparatory stage. The protected surface is cleaned from existing contaminants, traces of paint, dust. The actual state of the ceiling, floor, walls of the bathroom is determined. Depending on the existing defects, a certain waterproofing material is selected;
2. Joints in both planes are glued with special sealing tapes. Particular attention is paid to the installation location of the shower cabin;
3. The surface is primed. For drywall, one composition is used, for aerated concrete, another;
4. Waterproofing is applied taking into account technological requirements. Depending on the material used, it may be necessary to dampen or dry the ceiling;
5. Finishing work.

Floor waterproofing barrier

All work in the bathroom begins with the construction of a waterproof tray. To do this, the joints are carefully glued at the point of contact between the walls and the floor, especially where it is planned to install a shower cabin. There is a high probability of direct contact with water.

If desired, you can immediately perform the soundproofing of the bathroom. This will significantly reduce the noise level generated by plumbing during operation.

Before starting work, you must:

• remove old flooring and all dirt;
• repair existing cracks. For drywall, it is worth using mastic, as well as treating it with antiseptic impregnation. For aerated concrete, a cement-sand mortar is required.

To increase the adhesion of the waterproofing material, the surface to be protected is primed. The waterproofing material can then be applied using a suitable tool:

• paint brush;
• special spatula;
• burners.

The composition should form a uniform layer on the floor surface and 15-20 cm of the side walls. Where the shower cabin will be installed, the overlap can be much larger. After a day, you can start laying decorative flooring.

Is it worth protecting the ceiling?

The need to perform waterproofing work in this case is dictated not only by the risk of flooding the bathroom by neighbors from above.

In the absence of a reliable barrier on the floor in the apartment on the floor above, it will be difficult to prevent a flood. By protecting the ceiling, it will be possible to protect it from exposure to a humid environment.

Excess moisture can provoke a resolution of the bathroom overlap and worsen the appearance of the finishing material.

Work begins with the preparation of the ceiling surface by removing dirt and sealing existing joints. This is done with the help of cement mortar, if the house is made of aerated concrete.

For drywall, it is worth choosing a more suitable composition, the main thing is to prevent direct contact between moist air and building floors, especially above the installation site of the shower cabin.

Such defects can cause the formed layer to lose its protective properties, which will significantly worsen the operational characteristics of the formed coating. A waterproofing material is applied to the primed surface.

To protect the plasterboard ceiling, you can use tension structures, plastic panels, glass, mirrors. Being a reliable barrier to moisture, they often act as a stylistic solution, in harmony with the finish of the shower enclosure.

It doesn’t matter what material the walls and the partition in the house are made of: from aerated concrete or drywall, with high-quality repair work in the bathroom, you can not remember 10 years.

Even if every day a certain amount of water pours out of the shower cabin onto the floor, you don’t have to worry about the condition of the building’s ceilings.

The ability of aerated concrete material to absorb moisture is caused by its cellular structural structure, formed during the manufacture of blocks. At the same time, the aerated concrete retains the accumulated moisture inside itself. The degree of water absorption is explained by the fact that the voids in the blocks are not only closed, but also open. Cells of aerated concrete absorb about six to eight percent of moisture, because they are hygroscopic. Taking into account this feature, protection of aerated concrete from moisture from the outside should be organized. It is carried out not only for the walls, the construction of which is completed, but also during the transportation of material and its storage.

Why protection is needed

The aerated concrete block is similar in structure to a sponge.

The stone is able to "breathe", while being distinguished by high thermal and sound insulation capabilities. The absorption of water in a serious amount causes deviations of these indicators in the direction of their deterioration. To exclude such a manifestation, it is necessary to perform waterproofing of aerated concrete.

Note that the blocks are actively saturated with moisture during rain, sleet, in the spring season. If you do not protect their surface, then the material will absorb up to thirty-five percent of the water of its total weight. In a room built from such material, it will be damp and cool. In addition, wet blocks in severe frost can crack.

Moisture can penetrate the blocks in three ways: through a poorly made foundation, from the outside in the form of precipitation, from the inside in case of violation of the air conditioning or during flooding.

Protection methods

Blocks are protected in two ways:

1. Hydrophobization of aerated concrete - the use of compounds supplied in a ready-to-use or concentrated form. They do not form a film on the surface, but at a certain depth they form a layer that repels moisture. The vapor permeability of the surface practically does not change, water partially evaporates without getting inside. This type of coating does not change the shade of the surface, improves the resistance of the material to frost. Hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete can be used for silicate or ceramic brick walls, concrete, limestone, granite, shell rock and even paving slabs.
2. Waterproofing is the second way to protect aerated concrete from moisture. In this case, experienced specialists argue that the negative impact of water on the material in most cases can be eliminated by proper wall construction. Ideally, the "pie" of the wall should be made so that the outer layers are more vapor permeable than the inner ones. This will make it possible to remove part of the moisture from the room and protect the object from water ingress from the outside.

Hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete penetrates to a depth of 0.5 to 5 cm, is fixed in a day.

How to process aerated concrete blocks outside from moisture? There are several popular ways to do this:

• the walls are primed from the inside and covered with a plaster composition. This measure allows you to create a vapor barrier. Conventional plaster compositions are not suitable in this case, since aerated concrete begins to absorb moisture from the room, and the plaster layer cracks and peels off. It is best to use gypsum-based compositions;
• treatment of aerated concrete from moisture can be done with decorative tiles, stone, etc. The decorative material will create reliable protection for the aerated concrete surface;
• external walls can be bricked, leaving a gap for ventilation;
• the front part is finished with siding panels. This method is considered somewhat worse than the brickwork, because after the work is done it leaves a large number of hidden problems. Naturally, this finish option looks attractive, and its cost is more acceptable. But there is one problem - the operational period of aerated concrete is reduced;

• the walls are finished with reinforced concrete sandwich panels, which are based on concrete with a high resistance to moisture;
• when finishing the walls, waterproofing is carried out under aerated concrete blocks so that moisture does not penetrate into the room through the foundation. To this end, during the construction of the wall, blocks are laid at a height of thirty to fifty centimeters from the surface of the earth.

The external attractiveness of a building constructed of aerated concrete material should be maintained not only from the outside, but also from the inside.

The frequency of repair work depends on well-chosen materials and compliance with the technological features of the work.

Carrying out internal work, adhere to two main principles:

• strive to maintain the vapor permeability of the material;
• create maximum vapor barrier inside the rooms.

Finishing of a vapor-permeable type is carried out with plaster mortars consisting of gypsum, sand, lime. In this case, primer impregnation for aerated concrete from moisture is not used. Wallpaper is perfectly superimposed on such a surface.

With vapor barrier, everything is much simpler. The easiest option is to lay a plastic film under any finishing material. But in practice, the method is not used, because due to the accumulated moisture, the walls swell.

An excellent solution is hydrophobic impregnation for aerated concrete, which is applied in several layers.

Now let's figure out how to protect aerated concrete from moisture from the outside. An object whose walls are completely finished must be aged for no more than six months. This period is necessary for the complete shrinkage of the block material and its drying.

External finishing is recommended to be carried out after the internal work is completed. This is due to the properties of the transition of vapor from the inside to the outer part of the walls and then to the street. If the sequence is violated, then cracks will appear in the aerated concrete structure in any case. From this, the plaster layer will begin to peel off, the operational period of the building will be reduced.

The exterior finish option can take place in two directions:

• a ventilated facade system is created;
• external surfaces are plastered.

Quite rarely, there are objects on which a combined version of block protection is performed. Ventilated facades are lined with brickwork, sheathed with siding and slabs that imitate natural materials.

Choosing a plaster material that provides optimal protection is quite difficult, because aerated concrete blocks have the ability to "breathe". Vapors and moisture move in two directions, causing flaking and shedding of the plaster layer.

The optimal solution is the use of porous plaster compositions.

When choosing such a material, it is necessary to take into account a number of its properties:

• high level of adhesion;
• low level of capillary moisture absorption;
• minimum shrinkage;
• resistance to frost and other atmospheric manifestations.

For processing the basement, a plaster mortar is suitable, which differs in:

• good adhesion;
• high strength and water-repellent effect;
• increased frost resistance.

Experienced craftsmen will always tell you which water repellent for aerated concrete is better. In addition, they will be able to give useful advice on the conduct of work.

Do not leave aerated concrete material open, because during rain it will be saturated with moisture, and some of its properties will deteriorate.

Construction work should not be carried out from such material from the end of the autumn season to the middle of spring. At the same time, it is not advisable to plaster the walls, since there is a lot of moisture in the material. You should not rush with the device of the plaster layer either. If you do not withstand a certain time, then a layer with a low level of vapor permeability will be created on the block surface.

Do not work during the autumn season. From the included heating, moisture moves towards the street, creating condensate vapors under the plaster. From excess moisture, the finishing material begins to crumble.

If a short-term conservation of the facility is planned, water is drained from horizontal surfaces. Protective screens are installed on the visors, windowsill zones are covered with plastic wrap. The surface of the walls is left open.

How to process aerated concrete from moisture, we found out. From the reviews it is known that aerated concrete stones easily transfer a certain amount of accumulated moisture when the air inside becomes too dry. Walls made of such material in such a case provide its moisture.

It must be remembered that the amount of water in the block pores deteriorates the thermal insulation properties of the material. In addition, a wall saturated with moisture creates a load force on the foundation, which increases the likelihood of accidents.

Conclusion

Moisture is considered a destructive element. Its presence in the aerated concrete material on an ongoing basis will lead to a decrease in its strength index. If the openings of window structures, decorative ledges and roof drainage systems are equipped with high quality, waterproofing of the foundation base is carried out, the object of aerated concrete blocks can be operated for a long period without the formation of structural defects on its walls. Having done the work correctly, you will reliably protect the house from premature destruction.

Properly laid tiles on a foam block or gas block can increase the strength and moisture resistance of the structure. And they perform such work most often on the walls of bathrooms and kitchens, also providing decoration for their interior.

Foam blocks are a building material characterized by high heat and sound insulating properties, lightness and relatively affordable price. That is why they are increasingly used for housing construction. However, in addition to the advantages, the material also has a small drawback - the need for a finish that can maintain its characteristics and increase its service life. The internal surfaces of the blocks in the living rooms require plastering and painting. And sometimes it becomes necessary to lay tiles on the foam block - both in order to protect the enclosing structures from high humidity, and to decorate the interior.

Possibility of stacking

Homeowners who make repairs in a foam block house often have a question whether it is possible to lay tiles on a foam block. The answer to it is positive - however, due to the increased fragility of such a base, pieces of material may eventually begin to fall off along with the tile. Prevent this situation by using a primer first, and then plaster or a special tile adhesive.

Most often, the need for laying tiles on foam blocks arises when finishing the enclosing structures of the bathroom and kitchen. Indeed, in addition to the fact that the humidity here is noticeably higher than in other rooms, there is a possibility of water getting on the foam concrete and, as a result, the destruction of blocks and the appearance of mold. It is worth noting that ceramics can also be laid in such rooms on the floor, however, work with foam blocks is carried out only when finishing the walls.

Tile selection

An important nuance when laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom or in the kitchen is the right choice of finishing materials and finishing area. So, giving preference to the option with ceramic cladding up to the ceiling, you can visually reduce the room, creating the illusion of a lower ceiling. Therefore, in small bathrooms or kitchens, it is advisable to lay tiles, leaving at least 30-40 cm to the ceiling. And at the same time, choose smooth materials in cold colors. For a large bathroom and kitchen area, tiles in warm colors will be an excellent option for facing the foam block with tiles.

The dimensions of the tiles should depend on the filling of the premises with furniture and other items (household appliances and plumbing), their area and height:

• if there are a lot of interior elements, you should choose a large tile or a plain light mosaic;
• for a small bath in a minimalist style (with the installation of only the most necessary, without a washing machine and wall cabinets), the ideal option is a small square tile from 100 x 100 mm in size;
• for low rooms, a vertically located rectangular tile is suitable, for low rooms - square-shaped products.

Adhesive selection

Before buying tile adhesive, you should pay attention to its increased elasticity. And, choosing a method for laying tiles on foam blocks in the bathroom, pay attention to such a characteristic as resistance to high moisture. For the working wall in front of the kitchen oven, preference should be given to tiles, the operation of which is possible at elevated temperatures.

As materials for finishing dry rooms (corridors, living rooms or offices), compositions based on a conventional cement-sand mixture such as CM9 are suitable. And among the special options for tile adhesive, mosaic stands out separately, designed for sticking mosaics on walls. Due to the presence of white cement in the composition, this material does not have its own shade and provides increased strength of the cladding.

Preparing for styling

Before you prepare the foam blocks for tiles, you should evaluate the evenness of the wall surface. If the foam concrete laying was done correctly, additional finishing is practically not required. If there are significant irregularities, the performer will have to do serious work to prepare the foundation and.

Since the foam block strongly absorbs moisture, it is ideal for wet rooms to produce

Applying primer under plaster.

The next step is priming the blocks. For this, specialized materials are used, a wide range is presented. Being engaged in finishing bathrooms, it is worth additionally performing; in the kitchen, such work is not required. Having finished with the preparation, they go directly to the question of whether it is necessary to plaster the foam block under the tile - as a rule, they choose the option with plaster, which is more expensive, but also provides increased wall strength. For these purposes, tile adhesive is quite suitable. , on which the tile will be laid, proceed to the main part of the work.

Main stages of work

The first step in laying tiles on a foam block or gas block (the principle of sticking ceramics on both materials is the same) is to prepare the solution. To do this, a dry adhesive mixture and water are added to a previously prepared container, mixing them with a perforator with a special nozzle. Mixing ratios are usually indicated on the glue packaging.

Despite the instructions for preparing the adhesive mixture, it is advisable to control the mixing process yourself. The finished substance should not be too liquid and without lumps, but not too hard, so as not to impair the adhesion of the tile and wall.

Continuing work, you should:

1. Apply the finished adhesive mixture with a notched trowel;
2. Attach the first tile to the wall and press firmly;
3. Check the horizontalness of the material with a level and, if necessary, align the tiles. No more than 10-15 minutes are given for leveling the tiles after applying the adhesive. If this time is over, the glue should be removed and put again;
4. Repeat the same steps for the next tiles. In order to leave tile joints of the same thickness, plastic crosses are used;
5. If it is necessary to cut the tiles, use a tile cutter, passing the cutting part of the tool along the marked surface of the tile;
6. Plastic corners are laid at the corners of the room, with the help of which even seams are provided. And to bypass pipelines for water, gas and heat supply, they are cut out in tiles.

After laying all the tiles and drying the material (about 24 hours), the crosses are removed, and. The material for these works is selected to match the tone of the tile. Excess grout is removed with a sponge. And after 2-3 hours, the lining is wiped again, removing traces of the grout mixture. This is where the tiling of the foam block ends.

Deciding whether it is possible to glue tiles on foam blocks, and giving preference to this option, they get high-quality finished walls, the repair of which can not be done for many more years. At the same time, the surface of the enclosing structures is reliably protected from external influences both with the help of plaster and with tiles. And to achieve such a result is possible only with the help of a responsible attitude to work and strict observance of all requirements.