Laying ceramic tiles diagonally. Laying floor tiles diagonally Laying tiles diagonally on the floor
Finishing with tiles or porcelain stoneware is a popular option for finishing the floor in the room. There are several styling options. For example, diagonally. Many do not dare to use this method, considering it difficult. But, knowing all the nuances of installation and observing the required rules, you can independently lay the tiles in an original way.
How to calculate the number of tiles to lay diagonally on the floor
- you need to measure the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room;
- if it is not required to lay out a drawing, then the resulting value must be divided by the area of \u200b\u200bone product - when laying out a drawing, you should know the size of each element;
- approximately 20% must be added to the resulting figure - this is a margin for trimming and damage that occurred during the performance of work;
- since the diagonal version requires more material, another 15% must be added to the result, rounded up;
- the number is divided by the number of tiles in the package - the total number of packages required for work is obtained.
ATTENTION! If possible, you need to buy several pieces of tiles separately for stock.
Marking and preparing the surface for laying
In order for the installation to be performed correctly, and the result turned out to be neat, it is necessary to make markings. This is done as follows:
- with the help of two strings, the center of the room should be determined - the ropes must be stretched from one corner to another;
- the rope must be pulled through a certain center, this should be done perpendicular to the walls - this will determine the angles according to which the tile will be located.
ATTENTION! To check the correctness of the markup, you need to decompose the tile and evaluate the result. If everything is done correctly, you can begin to prepare the foundation.
Tiles are laid out on a flat surface. Therefore, it is required to eliminate irregularities and defects, as well as to remove dirt and dust. Then degrease and prime.
If the screed is not used, then you can take a mixture for a self-leveling self-leveling floor. The dry composition must be diluted with water according to the instructions that are indicated on its packaging.
The resulting solution is applied to the base and evenly distributed over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room using a roller. Then leave the floor until the mixture is completely dry. If everything was done correctly, you will get a flat surface.
Technique for laying tiles on the floor diagonally
Flooring can be laid in two ways: from the center or from the corner.
Angular way
This option is used for installation in rooms with a small area, as well as if tiles of the same color are used. He is quite labor intensive. The process should begin from the corner that is viewed first when entering the room. When using this method of installation, you need to check that the tile is located exactly perpendicular to the corner. To achieve a more accurate result, sometimes you have to slightly shift the tile.
From the center
The method is especially convenient when installing tiles in a square-shaped room. First of all, a rhombus should be laid out in the center of the room. After that, all whole elements are laid out. Cut tiles along the walls are placed last.
ATTENTION! It is advisable to pre-prepare a diagram according to which the work will be performed by printing or drawing it on a piece of paper. This will greatly simplify the process.
Stages of work:
- after the method is chosen, it is advisable to lay out the tiles on the floor - if the result suits you, you can proceed to laying;
- apply an adhesive to the tile - if the room is large, then it is allowed to apply the solution to the floor so that it is enough for about 4 elements;
- using a level, it is necessary to level the tile and press it firmly to the base - all laid tiles should be parallel to one line, it is advisable to check the evenness of the laid elements every few rows;
- to avoid the appearance of voids, the tile must be moved from side to side;
- the width of the seams should be adjusted with crosses, which must be installed after each laid element;
- installation of scraps against the wall is carried out after the entire whole tile is laid - you need to start from the very extreme corner;
- the last stage is the application of grout;
- all excess glue and grout must be removed and the tile left until the mortar and fugue are completely dry.
Pros and cons of laying diagonally
Before starting installation work, you need to consider the pros and cons.
The advantages are:
- Originality. Installation in a diagonal way is used extremely rarely, because the room will look unusual. The method allows you to perform various patterns and use several colors.
- Saving. With the right work, you can save a lot on materials. It is worth adding that this is possible if the work is performed by an experienced master.
- Space expansion. The diagonal layout visually expands the space.
The cons include:
- this is a rather time-consuming and painstaking process and can take a lot of time for an inexperienced person;
- it is difficult for a beginner to achieve perfect execution the first time, so spending on building materials can increase.
Although this is a rather difficult process, even a beginner can perform it. Following the recommendations and using high-quality materials, you can get an original and unusual floor.
With ceramic tiles laid diagonally on the floor, you can create a beautiful scheme, which is one of the most beautiful and common. Unlike direct laying, a little more materials are required and the process itself is more complicated, but it has certain advantages in hiding the unevenness of the walls.
Finishing with floor tiles diagonally will allow you to visually expand the room and hide the unevenness of the walls
Advantages of diagonal laying
Before you start laying tiles diagonally, you need to understand the features of this method. First of all, it is worth noting the pros and cons of the diagonal orientation of the tiles.
Attention! Diagonal laying can be done with both square and rectangular tiles.
So why is the diagonal method good? Advantages:
- Visual expansion of space. With a rotary arrangement, the room visually expands. In this case, you need to carefully choose the color and design of the coating.
- Decorative. The effect of diagonal styling is more interesting, because it looks unusual. To increase the effect, combine different colors.
- Hides uneven walls. In the absence of absolute parallelism of the walls, laying floor tiles diagonally allows you to hide this.
The laid surface by the diagonal method can be called more interesting and also costly than the direct method. But there are also disadvantages of this method associated with the installation:
- Complexity. Laying is much more difficult, since you need to correctly maintain the parallel of the invisible diagonal.
- More tile consumption. Tiles will be cut diagonally, and this increases consumption compared to straight laying by 5-10 percent.
- Tile cutting. You will have to spend a lot of effort to cut the plates.
Necessary tools and materials
To lay the tiles at 45 degrees, you need a tool that allows you to cut the halves diagonally In order for the whole process of diagonal laying to be of high quality, it is necessary to prepare special tools and stock up on the right amount of material. The difficulty will be that there is a large number of cut plates unsuitable for further use. Therefore, it will be necessary to carry out accurate calculations.
To determine the required number of tiles, it is best to do this schematically by counting a small area from one wall to another and multiplying by the partition factor of the site. First of all, whole tiles are calculated, after which it is calculated how many pieces will need to be made. If possible, try to make two pieces from one tile.
The resulting amount must be multiplied by 10% for cases of marriage, inaccuracies in the calculation, the occurrence of defects during cutting.
You will also need the following tools:
- a container for preparing a solution;
- spatula (notched, flat);
- glue;
- grout fugue;
- building level;
- twine;
- felt-tip pen or chalk for marking;
- roulette;
- spacers and mounting seam crosses;
- rubber mallet;
- tile cutter.
Surface preparation and marking
Laying tiles with a laser level will be much more convenient The level of complexity of laying is often determined by the quality of the base. That is why it needs to be prepared. In order for the final result to be achieved without problems, it is necessary to level the surface:
- The protruding parts are polished.
- The recesses in the base are sealed with cement mortar.
It would be best to make a new layer of self-levelling compound so that the installation process goes even better.
To do this, a special dry composition is mixed in water. After reaching the desired consistency, it is applied to the base and evenly distributed with a spiked roller. It levels the composition itself, and the roller is needed to direct it in the right direction and get rid of the air bubbles that remain in the solution.
After 3-4 days have passed and the screed has undergone the polymerization process, the surface is treated with primers that will improve the adhesion of the tile adhesive. Apply impregnation in a thin layer of 1 mm.
On the prepared base, it will be necessary to make marking lines along which it will be possible to lay parallel to the diagonal. This is done as follows:
Important! To carry out accurate marking, it is necessary to remove all interfering elements. It is dismantled from the perimeter of the walls and the door jamb is removed. But this process must be completed before the preparation of the base surface begins.
- If the room has a square shape, then the diagonal will be the reference line, which is drawn with a string. You can use more advanced tools, such as a laser level, but they are expensive and not everyone has it, so you have to get by with a simple rope and chalk.
- Since rooms with straight corners and straight walls are not so common, it will be necessary to use the isosceles triangle method. To do this, from the corner of the beginning of the tile installation, lines of the same length are laid and connected by a line. Such a line (the base of an isosceles triangle) will serve as the side for laying the tiles.
Material calculation
Another important stage of the installation is the calculation. The quality of the implementation of this stage will depend on whether there are enough materials or not. Buying too much material is a waste of money, and saving too much can lead to material shortages that may then be difficult to find commercially.
We put a small segment to calculate the approximate consumption In order to carry out the calculation, you can use the following methods:
- Online calculators.
- Professional programs for tilers: "Tile", "Tile 3D".
- Manual way.
Trusting just like that, without checking the calculations, is not worth it to an unfamiliar program: “trust, but verify!”. Moreover, there are two ways to perform manual calculation:
- The total area of the room is divided by the area of one tile. The resulting number must be increased by 10%. If laying tiles on the floor with your own hands will be done with a rhombus, then the stock must be taken at least 15%.
- A calculation is performed for one row of the finished surface, after which the resulting amount is multiplied by the number of rows. Also, do not forget about the margin of 15% if the tiles are laid with a diamond.
The following factors will affect the calculation of the required amount of adhesive composition:
- base material;
- surface evenness;
- plate sizes;
- adhesive quality.
You can apply the average value of the adhesive mixture. To calculate the flow, proceed as follows. The packaging indicates the consumption per square meter, which is multiplied by the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, thereby obtaining the average consumption of the adhesive composition.
Laying technology
Diagonal laying starts from the center of the room There are two ways to lay ceramic tiles diagonally:
- Starting from the center of the room. This method is used if the open floor area to be laid is located in the central part of the room. Lay the modules in sectors. The initial center point is determined by the intersection of the diagonal lines. The lines divide the entire laying area into four sectors. The corner of the first tile should be on the center point.
- Starting from the corner of the room. The first elements will be cut triangular tiles. For this, a tile cutter or grinder is used, with which the tile is cut in the form of an isosceles triangle.
In general, the whole process of applying tiles to the surface is practically no different from laying in a direct way. So it should go in the following order:
- Glue is applied to a small area of the floor and on the back of the tile.
- Tiles are laid in compliance with the gap between adjacent tiles. In this case, it is necessary to observe the parallelism of the previously marked line.
- The tile is slightly pressed onto the adhesive, the overall horizontal level is checked. If necessary, tap with a rubber mallet.
- Next comes the next tile, which must be on the same horizontal level as the others.
The first stage of installation takes place using solid tiles, and cutting and contouring will be carried out in a couple of days, when the adhesive has dried enough to walk on the tile floor.
The final step will be the grouting of the joints between the tiles, while it is worth choosing a grout mixture that will focus on the diagonal arrangement of the modules.
Watch the video on how to lay tiles on the floor with a diagonal orientation:
Tiling a floor is not as simple a process as it might seem from the outside. However, if you wish, you can easily cope with this task on your own, if you do the work carefully and slowly. And, of course, to get down to business only being at least a little “savvy” theoretically, knowing the basic nuances of the technology.
Somewhat more complicated than the usual, "straight" cladding is laying tiles diagonally. It has its own characteristics, which primarily swing planning and layout. Therefore, all stages of such tiling will be considered below, starting from surface preparation and ending with the assessment of the lined surface.
In modern interiors, designers very often use various techniques to create certain effects in the room. One of them is just the location of the cladding diagonally. Therefore, if there is a desire to include something unusual in the design of the hallway, corridor, bathroom, kitchen or toilet, then diagonal tile laying is one of the available options.
To benefits This design approach includes the following points:
- A visual expansion of space is achieved, especially if the walls are at least slightly reflective.
- It becomes possible to visually divide the room into zones using different directions for laying tiles.
- The spectacular location of the floor finish immediately attracts the eye of the person entering the room.
To shortcomings This masonry option includes:
- Increased complexity of work, including difficult markup.
- Forced cutting more tiles diagonally.
- Increased consumption of facing material.
- There is a high probability for beginners to make mistakes in calculations, drawing up a diagram, as well as when performing lining.
Diagonal tile options
Every good craftsman probably has his own proven technology for making diagonal floor tiles. But in many respects, the marking for cladding depends on the evenness of the corners, as well as on the shape of the room in which the cladding will be carried out.
As a rule, the walls in the premises of apartments are not perfectly perpendicular, unless, of course, they were previously aligned. This means that the corners of rooms are not always exactly straight. And this circumstance, in turn, affects the option of starting laying.
It can be done in the following ways:
- With uneven corners of the room, after marking the floors, the lining starts from the corner into which two triangular elements of the same or different sizes fit. They must fill this indirect angle and at the same time set an even diagonal, from which further “dance” is already taking place.
- If the corners of the room are aligned, then the masonry can be started with one tile cut diagonally, as shown in the illustration above.
- Laying tiles diagonally from the center of the room can be done at any angles, if the tiles are laid in the traditional way along the perimeter of the room.
- Laying starts from the center of the room when using tiles of different colors for facing, from which a certain pattern should be laid out.
In any of the selected options, it will be necessary to draw up a project for the future cladding on paper, transferring the floor plan to it on a scale. At the same time, they do not forget about the thickness of the seams - although it is small, it runs a lot on the scale of the room.
By the way, the Microsoft Publisher program, which is probably on every computer, can be a good help in drawing up a scaled plan for laying out tiles on the floor - it is included in the usual Microsoft Office package
Then, the floor surface is also drawn, as it looks on the drawn up plan. According to this scheme, it will be easier to prepare tiles for masonry in shape and size. Yes, and counting the number, especially if several different tile models are used, it will be much easier.
In order not to spoil the material, before proceeding to cutting, you should lay out the whole tile on the surface, on a pre-marked base. Some masters at that stage immediately cut out the fragments, precisely fitting them, and then carry out the general numbering of the entire “mosaic”. And in the process of laying, side operations are no longer distracted. But this approach still requires some experience.
Any small mistake can lead to a considerable number of incorrectly cut tiles. And it will be even better if there is an opportunity to use these fragments usefully. And there is a high-quality floor tile can be very much.
ceramic floor tiles
Tools and materials for work
Before proceeding to the description of the preparatory work, it is necessary to list the tools without which it will be impossible to prepare the floor and lay the cladding.
So, for marking and laying tiles you will need:
- Painting cord for marking the surface;
- Roulette and a long metal ruler;
- Marker and a simple pencil;
- The laser level is desirable, but not required, but in this case, you can not do without the building level and rules.
- Containers for mixing solutions of glue and grout, as well as a paint tray with a ribbed surface for priming;
- Electric drill and mixer attachment.
- Roller with fur nozzle;
- Spatulas - traditional, notched and rubber;
- Rubber mallet;
- Tile cutter, grinder with a disc for ceramics, in extreme cases - a high-quality glass cutter;
- Handy tools, for example, a block for tamping tiles.
From materials other than tiles, it will be necessary to prepare:
- primer for concrete surfaces;
- tile adhesive;
- grout composition.
In order not to purchase excess tile adhesive, it is best to calculate its consumption in advance. At the same time, given that its quantity will depend not only on the area of \u200b\u200bthe room, but also on the parameters of the selected tile. The larger its dimensions, the greater the thickness of the adhesive layer applied with a notched trowel. It follows from this - the larger the tile, the more glue will be required for its installation.
| Linear parameters of the tile (with its rectangular shape, it is considered along the larger side), mm | Recommended tooth height of notched trowel, mm | Approximate consumption of glue, kg/m² |
|---|---|---|
| 400 or more | 12 | 7.6 |
| from 300 to 400 | 10 | 6.3 |
| from 200 to 300 | 8 | 5 |
| from 100 to 200 | 6 | 3.8 |
| from 50 to 100 | 4 | 2.5 |
| up to 50 | 3 | 1.9 |
This table will help you navigate when purchasing a dry mix. But even better is to use a calculator that will calculate the number of tiles, tile adhesive, and grout at once. True, it is full-fledged, in all three positions it will help if it is planned to cover the entire floor with tiles of the same format.
One option for laying floor tiles is to lay the tiles diagonally. This method is used to visually expand the room. By and large, laying floor tiles diagonally is the same traditional laying method as parallel to a wall. However, using this method, you can hide or make invisible some defects in the decoration of the room.
There are two variants of diagonal tile laying technology: "sequential laying" and "laying in three stages".
The technology of "successive laying" lies in the fact that the tiles begin to be laid from the wall or corner from the halves of the tile and sequentially lay out row after row. This is a simple technology, but with this laying method, there is a high probability of error. An error can creep in due to the unevenness of the walls, the non-perpendicular location of the walls and incorrect calculations. As a result, the rows of tiles may not converge and it will be clearly visible that the tiles are laid unevenly.
Fig.1.
The technology of laying tiles in “three stages” lies in the fact that at the first stage a base row of tiles is formed, at the second stage the entire tile is laid out on one and the other side of the base one, at the third stage tiles are laid against the walls (halves of tiles). The probability of errors when laying floor tiles in this way is reduced to zero, so it is used most often.
Laying tiles begins with the formation of a base row, which sets the direction of laying the rest of the tile. Therefore, before starting to lay the tiles, markup is first performed. As a rule, laying is carried out diagonally in the room, i.e. from one corner to another. The simplest marking option, without the use of a special tool, is a stretched cord. You can install two self-tapping screws at the height of the tile level in the corner of the wall and pull a thread (cord) between them.
Fig.2.
If the room has an elongated shape, for example, a corridor or a loggia, and it is not possible to make markings along the diagonal of the room, then the markings are made parallel to the wall. In this case, the base row of tiles is laid diagonally. It should be noted that aligning the tiles in this way is somewhat more difficult than in the first option.
Fig.3.
Instead of a cord or thread for marking, you can use a laser level. This is a fairly convenient option, however, it should be remembered that it is not desirable to shift the laser level before the end of the first row.
After marking, the first row of tiles is laid. In this case, only whole tiles are laid, and the halves are laid at the final stage. Laying the first row should be done especially carefully. Since the laying of the rest of the tiles depends on the quality of laying the first row. After laying the first row, it is necessary to allow the tile adhesive to dry well. Then you can start laying the rest of the tiles.
At the second stage, the rest of the tile is laid. Tiles are laid sequentially row by row. At this stage, only whole tiles are laid on either side of the first (base) row. You should pay attention to the fact that when laying tiles, you should leave a corridor to exit the laying area.
Fig.4.
The final step in laying tiles diagonally is laying the halves along the wall. This stage causes the main difficulty when cutting parts of the tile. In order to precisely cut the required part of the tile, it is necessary to measure the length of the sides of adjacent tiles (already laid on the floor). On the tile to be cut, make marks on the sides and connect them with a line, this will be the cut line.
Tips for laying floor tiles diagonally
- To lay tiles diagonally, you will need a tile cutting machine, in extreme cases, you need to have a grinder with a diamond wheel. The fact is that with diagonal laying, some of the tiles will have to be cut diagonally, and it is almost impossible to do this with a manual tile cutter, there will be a lot of damaged tiles. Given that the mentioned tool is not cheap, this circumstance must be taken into account before laying.
- Often choosing the method of laying tiles diagonally, they try to solve the problem of uneven walls. This is justified by the fact that since the tile is not parallel to the wall, there is no even line that would make it possible to create the feeling that the wall is uneven. However, if the tile is laid at an angle of 45 degrees to the wall, then such a line will be formed by the corners of the tile, and accordingly the desired effect will not be achieved.
Fig.5.
- There are two ways to achieve the desired effect. Firstly, it is possible to lay tiles at an angle not of 45 degrees, but more or less, this is true for a rectangular room. Secondly, the direction of laying the tiles can be chosen in the direction of the light falling from the window, by analogy with laying the laminate diagonally.
Fig.6.
- Also, when laying tiles that are adjacent to the wall, one should take into account the fact that the plinth is able to close the gap of no more than 10 mm, and, therefore, it is impossible to leave a large gap between the tile and the wall.
Laying tiles diagonally in terms of laying complexity is no different from other ways of laying floor tiles. At the same time, the diagonal laying of floor tiles allows you to hide the unevenness of the walls, and, no less important, visually expand the room. So in fact this is the best option for laying tiles in a long corridor or narrow kitchen.
The basic or parallel mounting scheme for ceramic products is considered the easiest to implement. More difficult and costly is laying floor tiles diagonally. At the same time, the finished coating turns out to be very attractive, suitable for both small and large rooms.
Tiles can be safely called a finishing material that provides the designer with unlimited possibilities for decorating. Many formats, a huge range of colors, all sorts of compositions and additional elements, combinatoriality - thanks to these factors, even from a simple tile of two colors, you can get a beautiful, absolutely unique coating.
Installation of tile material is carried out in several ways: direct, offset or diagonal (rhombus). It is the latter option that is considered the most interesting and universal.
To obtain a diagonal installation of tiles, a standard straight pattern is rotated at an average angle of 45° to the walls. A professional can form absolutely any design, even the most complex one (carpet, ornament, rosette), in the form of a diagonal with a turn at an angle of 30 ° to 70 °, or combine straight and diamond-shaped styling in one project.
When buying, experienced sellers immediately demand from the client - choose a layout scheme. It depends on it:
- Design and format of tiles.
One-dimensional cladding is universal, its installation will be mastered by both beginners and experienced craftsmen. But another thing is modular coverage. Consists of a set of elements of different sizes and shapes, multiples of each other. This type of finishing material can be mounted randomly or in a certain order, creating a simple or complex, rhythmically repeating pattern. Modular claddings are difficult to implement; with a diagonal layout, they require an exceptionally professional approach;
An example of a scheme for straight and diamond-shaped laying of modular tiles
- Equipment.
That is, the number of main and complementary tiles, a set of various auxiliary elements: decors, friezes, panels, and so on. A neatly mounted monochromatic cladding diagonally on the floor looks quite calm. The two-color checkerboard turns out to be brighter, dominant, it must be used carefully so as not to overload the space. Even more complex is the multi-color, rich in decorative elements modular finish. The color and equipment are selected very carefully, taking into account all the features of the room, up to the intensity of the light flux and the color of the furniture.
Use of decors.
- Consumption of facing material.
Laying tiles on the floor diagonally involves a considerable expense of facing. Along the perimeter, almost all elements will be cut off, but not all the remains will go into action. Therefore, you will have to buy finishing material with a margin of 15-25% for waste. And it is better not to save on this, because later on it will be very difficult for you to find a tile of the same batch, shade or caliber.
Tile parameters indicated on the box.
The best way to calculate the correct (orderly) amount of required cladding, to identify the most optimal arrangement of the main and decorative elements, is to draw a drawing by hand in advance or order it from a consultant. Pottery manufacturers provide almost all sellers with programs for developing sketches or special terminals for independent work. This is very convenient, since you can form a project in 3D and at the same time get a plan-order.
It would be useful to mention one more point that raises questions from buyers. This is the recommended width of the tile joint. In fact, it does not matter at what angle the tiles are laid out to the walls. Here the rule applies - the larger the size of the product, the wider the gap:
- Ceramics up to 30x30 cm - 1-1.5 mm;
- Facing from 30x30 to 60x60 cm - 2-5 mm;
- Large-format products from 60x60 cm and more - 5-10 mm.
And keep in mind - only rectified finishing material is mounted by a seamless method. That is, products that have undergone edge processing in the factory.
A set of tools and materials
Rhombus tiles are laid using the following kit:
- facing covering and necessary shaped elements;
- Glue tile cement or polymer;
- Soil for processing the base, if necessary - waterproofing material;
- Cement or polymer grout;
- Silicone sealant for processing joints and corner joints.
- Roulette, square and steel ruler;
- Hydro or laser level;
- Tile cutter;
Diagonal laying requires a large amount of undercut tiles. Therefore, it is better to rent a good tile-cutting power tool. This will significantly reduce time costs and improve the quality of work.
Overview of the tile cutting tool -.
- Marking cord and marker;
- Building container and mixer for mixing solutions;
- Trowel and notched trowel for applying tile adhesive;
- Mallet and spatula for grouting;
- Remote crosses or tile leveling system (SVP);
- Mounting gloves and knee pads;
- Bucket, sponge and soft cloth to remove excess adhesive and grout.
Step-by-step instruction
The floor cladding is laid with a rhombus in 5 stages:
Foundation preparation
According to the instructions of the ceramic manufacturers, the subfloor must ensure the creation of an adhesive layer under the tiles with a thickness of 2-15 mm, under the mosaic coating - up to 20 mm.
The base must be:
After checking the subfloor, it is desirable to prime with a suitable compound to harden, enhance adhesive properties or equalize its absorbency. If necessary, carry out waterproofing measures and be sure to check that all types of communications have outlets to the surface in accordance with the design of the room.
We wrote in detail about preparing the base for tiles.
Marking and dry laying
The first task is to build the correct center lines of the room. Connect the midpoints of opposite walls to obtain a longitudinal and transverse axis. On the vertical enclosing structures, mark the expected level of the finished floor, which will help to quickly correct minor flaws.
Diagonal layout simple diagram
Since we lay the tiles in a rhombus, in addition to the base center lines, we will need diagonal ones connecting opposite corners. If the area of the room is large, you can stretch the mooring cord along the axes or install the so-called lighthouse tiles. At the same time, manufacturers' instructions recommend laying out from the center, and in small bathtubs, hallways (for plain or two-color tiles) - from the far corner of the room.
Combined scheme.
Before applying the adhesive composition, it is necessary to lay out the ceramic coating on a dry floor. This will allow you to once again check the correctness of the drawing, as well as to fit or trim.
Preparation of tile adhesive
Tiles can be laid out on a homogeneous mortar with a low flow coefficient. The dry mixture must be mixed with clean water without impurities and stirred with a mixer at the speed recommended by the manufacturer. The finished mass has a short open time - up to 60 minutes, during which it must be fully worked out.
If a polymer adhesive mass is used, then it must be mixed with a spatula or an activator must be added and carefully worked with a drill or screwdriver with a small mixing nozzle.
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