Do-it-yourself ceiling made of plastic panels step by step. How to make ceilings from plastic panels with your own hands: instructions, recommendations and installation features

Suspended ceiling. DIY styling

Today, the dear reader and I will have to figure out how to mount plastic panels on the ceiling. We will consider three installation methods of varying complexity and with the use of auxiliary materials. But first, a few words about where paneling is appropriate and how practical it is.

Areas of use

Repair of the ceiling with plastic panels is appropriate in any premises of a small area, with the exception of living rooms.

Here are some examples:

Image Description

Here are its benefits:

  • Cheapness(price per square meter of plastic lining - from 160 rubles);
  • High installation speed;
  • Large selection of colors and patterns;

  • The minimum amount of dusty and the absence of "wet"(using building mixtures) works;
  • Absolute resistance to high humidity, prolonged contact with water, mold and detergents;
  • Sufficiently high mechanical strength;
  • Possibility of installation of built-in lamps and hidden communications.

Please note: luminaires can be attached directly to panel cutouts. In the case of a stretch ceiling, mounting pads must be mounted under them.

Electrical wiring for built-in lights. DIY styling

Panel selection

On what grounds is it worth choosing panels on the ceiling:

  • Seamless panels look better than lining with a highlighted seam;
  • The width of the products should be maximum. Just because, then there will be much less seams in sight;
  • Light colors are preferable to dark ones: they visually increase the height of the room;

  • For the same reason, a glossy texture is more preferable than a matte one;

In addition: the gloss is much less dirty. Matte panels will collect dirt due to their rough surface.

  • It is better to opt for one-color panels. Imitation of wood texture or stone texture on plastic looks rather unconvincing;

For mounting on the photo, a white glossy seamless lining 370 mm wide was used

  • The corner of the product compressed between the thumb and forefinger should not be deformed, much less broken. The low strength of the plastic will hinder you at the installation stage.

Required tool

Fastening of plastic panels is carried out using the following devices:

  • screwdriver will be used a lot. With it, screws are twisted and holes are drilled in wood and plastic. It is important that the kit contains bits of the desired configuration and a set of drills of different diameters, metal options are also suitable, they drill both panels and bars well;

  • Perforator necessary for drilling holes for dowel-nails. Most often, fasteners with a diameter of 6 mm are used; a drill is also selected for it. Its length should fit the dowels. If the ceiling is wooden, then a puncher is not needed, fastening will be done using self-tapping screws;
  • Building level needed to control the plane when setting up the frame. A tape measure is used for measurements, and markings are applied with a construction pencil or marker. You may also need a carpenter's square to outline perpendicular lines;

  • Wood saw. It is used for cutting a bar under the frame of the structure. If you have a tool with fine teeth, then it can also cut plastic panels. You also need to have a construction knife at hand - with it you can cut planks, plinth and remove burrs from panels that form during sawing;

  • stepladder or any other fixture that will help you work under the ceiling. For these purposes, you can build a platform from improvised materials or use a solid table.

Technology

So, how is the installation done by hand?

On glue

The simplest way to finish is the adhesive installation of plastic panels. Its obvious plus is that the height of the room is reduced only by the thickness of the decorative coating (6-10 mm).

There are more cons:

  • Adhesive installation requires preparation of the floor surface (at a minimum, its cleaning from whitewash and other low-adhesive coatings and primer with penetrating acrylic primer);

  • This installation method is not suitable for floors with significant irregularities. Meanwhile, the differences between the panels sometimes reach several centimeters;
  • Fastening the panels with glue eliminates the hidden wiring of lighting and installation of communications.

Here is a step by step installation guide:

  1. Cut the panel to length. For cutting plastic, it is most convenient to use a grinder with a cutting wheel for stone or metal: it does not give burrs and makes the cut edge perfectly even;

  1. Apply several parallel strips of liquid nails to the back of the panel;

  1. Press the panel against the ceiling and immediately tear it off;
  2. After 3-5 minutes, press the product again to the place of its installation - this time completely;
  3. The last panel is cut not only in length, but also in width;
  4. For edging the ceiling, a foam baguette is used. It can be glued on the same liquid nails or on acrylic putty. Putty is also used to seal cracks at the junction of the baguette to the walls.

On the crate with baguette edging

Mounting the ceiling of plastic panels on the crate allows you to:

  • Do without stripping old coatings;
  • Mount built-in lights, hide the ventilation duct, wiring, air conditioning lines and any other communications;
  • Compensate with suspensions for irregularities of any size.

What is the crate made of? We will need galvanized drywall profiles (ceiling CD 60x27 mm and ceiling guide UD 27x28 mm) and straight hangers.

For fastening suspensions and guides, you can use dowel-nails or wedge anchors.

Curiously: one of the leading manufacturers of drywall and profiles - the German company Knauf - strongly recommends fixing hangers with anchors for fire safety reasons. At high temperatures, melting plastic dowels can cause the ceiling to collapse. However, for plastic panels, this requirement makes no sense: they will melt much earlier than the fasteners.

The step between the elements of the crate should be no more than 50-60 centimeters, otherwise, over time, the ceiling may sag under its own weight.

Installation of the ceiling frame is carried out in the following order:

  1. We mark by level (laser or water) the mounting line of the guides;

  1. We fasten the UD profile to the walls in increments of no more than half a meter;

  1. We mark the axes of the guides and mount suspensions along them with a step of no more than 80 cm;
  2. We insert the ceiling profiles into the guides;
  3. We align the crate along the cords stretched between the guides perpendicular to it and fasten the suspension ears to the CD profiles, bending their free part to the ceiling;

  1. We connect the ends of the profiles of the crate with the guides with self-tapping screws.

The next step is lining the lining. All panels are fastened with self-tapping screws to the lower ledge of the tongue-and-groove lock. The first and last panels, in addition, are hemmed through the front side to the guide profiles: self-tapping screws will hide the baguette.

Finally, a foam or polyurethane baguette is glued around the perimeter of the ceiling.

On a crate with a plastic plinth edging

With this method of installation, the same design of the crate is used as in the previous case, but the mounting option for the lining and the edging of the ceiling are different. Instead of a foam baguette, a plastic ceiling plinth is used - more durable, washable and collecting noticeably less dirt.

The plinth is mounted using self-tapping screws to the guide profile of the crate on three of the four walls. The lining is cut in such a way that it is 20 millimeters shorter than the distance between the walls.

Panels are installed as follows:

  1. We insert the lining into one of the side plinths to the full depth of its groove;
  2. We center the panel so that both its edges are recessed into the grooves of the skirting boards by 10 mm;

  1. We fix the tongue-and-groove lock with self-tapping screws.

The last panel is cut in width so that after its installation, a centimeter gap remains between its edge and the wall. A plinth with a shelf cut to a centimeter width is glued to the guide profile with liquid nails.

Conclusion

As you can see, the installation of plastic panels on the ceiling is not difficult and requires the simplest tool. The video attached to the article will demonstrate the installation technology more clearly. Good luck!

Today, there are many materials for modern ceiling design. However, plastic panels remain the most popular and in demand for several years. They gained such popularity due to excellent technical characteristics, affordable price, ease of installation.

Panel types

Today, hardware stores and markets offer a wide range of this material. There are wall panels - heavy and rigid, as well as ceiling panels - more fragile, on which each careless pressing with a tool can leave a mark. That's what we'll talk about today, since our task is to learn how to make a ceiling from plastic panels. Is it possible to do it yourself? The work is not difficult, but requires accuracy and attention.

PVC panels that sheathe the ceiling are glossy, matte and colored. Matte samples do not have any coating, are considered the cheapest. Glossy panels are covered with a special varnish. Images from thermal film are transferred to color.

Advantages of panels

According to experts and ordinary buyers, this material is moisture resistant, has the effect of sound insulation, does not require special care, and is durable. In addition, behind such a ceiling, electrical wiring and communications, panel seams, irregularities and other existing flaws in the ceiling are easily hidden.

A suspended ceiling made of plastic panels is not recommended for installation in rooms with a possible temperature difference exceeding 15 degrees. Do not carry out assembly work at low temperatures. If the panels have been stored in the cold for a long time, do not rush to unpack them. They need to "lie down" in the room where they will be installed for at least two days. The polyethylene film that covers the front side of the material is removed before installation in order to prevent unwanted surface damage.

The ceiling of plastic panels is most effective when the plates are located on the longer side of the perimeter.

Preparing for installation

This is one of the few materials that does not require serious surface preparation before installation. Installation of ceilings from plastic panels is carried out on a surface previously cleaned of the previous coating (if any). You can treat it with an antifungal primer.

How to make a ceiling from plastic panels

You will need the following materials:

  • plastic panels;
  • for large rooms direct suspensions;
  • self-tapping screws for the frame;
  • nails or dowels;
  • plastic profile or ceiling plinth with corners and liquid nails glue.

How much material is needed

Calculate exactly the area of ​​​​the ceiling, divide the resulting figure by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe panel (this figure is indicated on the package), add 15-20% to the amount obtained, rounding up.

Then you need to calculate how much mounting profile is required. To do this, you need to draw a diagram of the ceiling to scale. On one side of it, draw strictly parallel horizontal lines at a distance of 500-600 mm. This is the markup for attaching mounting profiles. Based on this, calculate the total number of required profile. It is also necessary to calculate the consumption of fasteners that you will need for the profile and panels. Dowels should be purchased at the rate of 2 pieces per 1 meter of panel length. Self-tapping screws with wide caps will need 1 piece per 50 cm of panel length.

To calculate the amount of plastic ceiling plinth, it is necessary to divide the length of the ceiling perimeter by 3 and round the resulting number upwards. You also cannot do without the necessary tool. This is:


Leveling the ceiling

Suspended ceiling made of plastic panels should be perfectly flat. How to align it? Measure the height of the room in all corners, select the lowest one and step back 5 cm from it. If you want to build in fixtures, then the indent must be at least 10 cm. Draw horizontal lines using a level - profiles will be installed along them. Next, cut to size and drill holes for dowels along the marked strip. Insert dowels into them and fasten around the entire perimeter.

Lathing installation

Cross profiles are installed strictly parallel to future panels. They must be installed at least 450 mm apart. The ceiling profile is cut into segments of the required length and attached to the guide profile using self-tapping screws. The installation of profiles is controlled by a level. In small rooms, profiles can be fastened together. As a plinth, you can use a mounting plastic profile with a recess. Panels are inserted into it. This profile is attached to the guides on three sides of the perimeter.

Panel mounting

Carefully measure the plastic panels with a tape measure and cut them to size. The very first panel is slightly bent and one end is inserted into the plastic plinth, then the same is done with the second end, then it is moved and the long side is inserted into the side plinth. In the same way, the second panel is inserted, which moves close to the first and is inserted into the groove of the previous panel. The panels are attached to the transverse profiles with self-tapping screws. All subsequent panels are installed in the same way. If you plan to build in lighting, then holes for lamps are cut in the panels first and wiring is laid. The last panel is cut lengthwise to the required width. This is done with a regular knife. Then it is installed in a plastic plinth and wound into the grooves of the previous panel.

The ceiling of plastic panels (you see the photo in this article) is appropriate in the bathroom, in the kitchen, in the hallway, on the loggia.

Common Mounting Mistakes

It is not difficult to make a ceiling from plastic panels. In addition to the material and tools, you will need accuracy, attention and compliance with certain rules that will save you from common installation errors. Do not glue the panels to the concrete ceiling with adhesive - ventilation between the panel and the ceiling is necessary.

You already know how to make a ceiling from plastic panels, but pay attention to their quality - the result of the work largely depends on this. Enticed by cheapness, you may soon notice surface deformation, loss of color. Cheap plastic is transparent, turning on the light, you will see all communications on the ceiling.

Some craftsmen, who may not know how to make a ceiling from panels correctly, change the metal profile to wooden bars, instead of using self-tapping screws they use brackets. Such replacements are not equivalent, they can create additional problems, especially in rooms with high humidity. The wooden base quickly swells, begins to warp, its appearance is lost, and as a result, the entire structure may collapse.

There are many materials that can be used to finish ceilings, but the most practical and easy-to-use option is PVC panels. And they become even more attractive for the reason that it is quite simple to install them yourself, so there is no need to involve a team of builders. Our article will tell you how to fix PVC panels to the ceiling and how to choose them correctly.

PVC panels - what is it?

PVC panels - a finishing material made from polyvinyl chloride - a plastic that does not burn well and has chemical resistance. Now consider the design of PVC panels.

PVC panels for ceiling

They consist of two thin sheets of plastic, interconnected by many stiffening ribs. Along the length of the PVC panels, there is a large mounting shelf on one side, and a small mounting shelf on the other. The first is used to fasten the PVC sheet to the ceiling frame, and the second is used to connect the installed sheets to each other.

So why have PVC panels become so popular? Below is a list of the advantages of this finishing material.

Choice of PVC panels

So, you know what kind of material it is, now you need to select PVC panels and purchase them. First you need to decide on the size. At the moment, in hardware stores you can see plastic panels either in the form of lining or in the form of rectangular slabs with the dimensions shown in the table below.

Table. Standard sizes of PVC panels.

How do you know if you have good material in front of you? How not to unknowingly purchase low-quality PVC panels that will crack during installation or lose their color after a couple of years of service?

Ceiling panel prices

ceiling panels

When going to the hardware store, you should pay attention to the following points. For small rooms, PVC panels of the "lining" type will be the most suitable. They should also be preferred if you want to have a plastic ceiling stylized as wooden boards. BUT for larger rooms, it is better to take panels or sheets of polyvinyl chloride. As for the thickness, it is mostly the same for all types of PVC sheets and is 10 millimeters.

  1. The stiffening ribs of PVC panels should not be visible from the front side. Also count their number - the more ribs, the stronger and more durable the panel design.
  2. The surface of the material must be perfectly flat, without any defects, chips or damage.
  3. Mounting and fixing shelves must be flexible enough and not break when you try to bend them.
  4. Try pressing lightly on the PVC panel. If a crack or dent appears on the surface, then you have a poor-quality copy, which it is advisable to refuse to purchase.
  5. Take a few panels and try to put them together. Good material fits smoothly and without gaps.
  6. Pay attention to the appearance of the purchased PVC panels - copies from all packages must be plain and have the same texture. In some situations, PVC sheets from different batches have slight color differences.

What to look for when buying PVC panels: 1. The number of stiffeners: the less there are, the more unstable the product.
2. The ribs of plastic tiles must be intact and straight.
3. The surface of the PVC panel should be evenly colored, smooth and without unevenness.
4. Two panels must be properly connected in the place of the docking groove.

In addition to the PVC sheets themselves, you will need to purchase an installation profile. It consists of two "shelves", one of which is attached to the frame, and the other is connected to the plastic panels. Both starting and finishing PVC sheets are attached to the installation profile.. When choosing it, you should pay attention to the thickness of the plastic and whether the profile has any bends or defects.

Do not forget to also buy a ceiling plinth - it not only serves as a decorative element of the future ceiling, but also closes the gap between the wall and the ceiling made of PVC panels. Usually such skirting boards are called fillets, they are made of plastic and attached to glue.

As for the appearance of the purchased PVC panels, you must determine it yourself, based on the design project for decorating the room and your own taste. Your attention will be presented with many options for panels of various colors and textures. Here we can advise you to use a color matching table so that the appearance of the ceiling blends well with the color of the walls and furniture.

Required Tools

Now you need to make a list of the tools that you will need to fix the PVC panels to the ceiling. You do not need something complicated or very expensive, everything listed below can be found in any hardware store.

  1. Perforator- necessary for the installation of the frame.
  2. screwdriver. If you wish, you can also fasten plastic panels to a profile or timber using a perforator, but it is very heavy, and it is very inconvenient to use it for such tasks. Therefore, the presence of a screwdriver will greatly facilitate the work and increase the speed of installation of PVC panels. And if you fasten them not on self-tapping screws, but with the help of brackets, then instead of a screwdriver, take a construction stapler.
  3. To control the accuracy of marking and the location of plastic panels, you will need square, level and paint thread.
  4. Pencil or marker for drawing lines and marking PVC panels in the order they are laid.
  5. Roulette for measurements.
  6. Electric jigsaw or circular saw - for cutting frame profiles and plastic panels.
  7. stepladder. Of course, you can always get by with a table or a stool, but this is unsafe and inconvenient.
  8. rubber mallet, which can be useful for fitting PVC panels to each other during installation.

In addition to tools, you need to purchase material for the frame. This can be either a metal profile (UD-27 for the main and CD-60 for the guide), or a wooden bar. Also, do not forget to purchase fasteners (self-tapping screws, staples or glue), drill bits for a puncher, nozzles for a screwdriver, dowels and hangers for a profile.

Prices for PVC panels

PVC panels

Training

It is worth noting that even before visiting a hardware store, it is worth starting preparatory work. The first thing you need to do is create a plan. For this measure the length and width of the room and draw a diagram of the future frame.

Then calculate how many sheets and what sizes you will need to make a false ceiling.

Important At the planning stage, it will not be superfluous to mark the lines along which you will cut the profile of the frame and PVC panels. At the same time, they can be marked with a pencil and marker, indicating in which order they should be laid.

Remember that good and careful planning is the key to quality work and reliable insurance against various troubles and the need to redo everything anew.

The second point of preparation removal of old finishing materials. If the ceiling was previously covered with a thick layer of plaster or paint, then all this must be removed, otherwise heavy pieces of the old finish can damage the frame or the panels themselves.

The last stage of preparatory work - marking the line of the future frame. To do this, use a tape measure to measure the height of all corners of the room. Find the one in which it will be the smallest. From it down, you should measure 50 millimeters and draw a strictly horizontal line (control it with a paint thread and a level). The same line at exactly the same height should be drawn on the opposite wall. According to them, the suspended ceiling frame will be installed in the future.

plaster prices

plaster

Frame installation

On the lines drawn, every 50-100 millimeters mark holes drilled with a puncher. After that, dowels are inserted into them. Through the holes drilled in the wall with self-tapping screws (for example, a 6x40 mm self-tapping screw), the main frame, made of their UD-27 profile, is attached with a cover to the wall. At the same time, do not forget to use the level and ensure that the frame elements are located strictly horizontally.

Then, with the help of suspensions and the CD-60 profile, guide rails are created, to which the PVC panels will be attached. The optimal distance between them is 500 millimeters. The metal profile CD-60 is installed with a cover to the floor, the ends of the rails should be inserted into the profile of the main frame.

Advice! Alone, it is very difficult to properly mount the frame and install PVC panels, so this work should be done together with a partner. It will also be useful to have the help of a person who will supply and receive tools, cut and bring plastic panels.

Having finished with the installation of the frame, check it several times for horizontality and the absence of a difference in height - the future ceiling made of PVC panels should be perfectly even, and this largely depends on how well the crate is installed.

An alternative to a metal profile can be a frame made of wooden beams. This design will cost less, but it is susceptible to moisture. The technology of its installation is in many ways similar to the technology for a metal profile.

  1. We draw two strictly horizontal lines on opposite walls.
  2. We drill holes on them with an interval of 5-15 centimeters.
  3. We insert dowels into the holes.
  4. We fix the beam of the main frame to the wall using self-tapping screws and the above-mentioned holes.
  5. We mount guides made of wooden beams with the help of suspension brackets.
  6. We fix the guides to the main frame with the help of corners.
  7. We check the entire structure with the help of a level and a tape measure.

It is worth noting that for a wooden frame, the most optimal fasteners for plastic panels will not be self-tapping screws wrapped with a screwdriver, but staples that require a construction stapler. Also, metal fasteners can be replaced with "liquid nails" - a construction adhesive that can firmly hold a plastic panel and frame together even under relatively large loads.

Prices for "liquid nails"

liquid Nails

Important! If there is an additional load, such as a large chandelier or a second level of suspended ceilings, the frame must be reinforced. To do this, it is necessary to mount more guide rails, reducing the gap between them. This is mandatory not only for a wooden frame, but also for a metal profile structure.

Fixing PVC panels to the ceiling

First, mount the installation profile by attaching its large “shelf” to the guide rails using self-tapping screws. It can be installed both around the entire perimeter of the room, and in places where PVC start and finish panels are attached.

Now it is necessary to cut the PVC panels according to the previously developed plan and the applied markings. At the same time, many experts advise making the length of the sheet a little less than the width of the room, since PVC can expand even at low temperatures, which means that the “back-to-back” installation can lead to future deformations of the false ceiling.

Advice! Also, you should not install PVC panels in a room with a low temperature, especially since under such conditions this material becomes brittle.

If you are planning to make recessed lighting for a false ceiling, it's time to make cutouts for fixtures in PVC sheets.

Once the material is fully prepared, you can begin to attach the first (or start) panel. To do this, you and an assistant need to insert the launch panel into the installation profile from the side of the mounting shelf, and then fix it with self-tapping screws on the rails. At the same time, make sure that they do not go too deep into the PVC, otherwise there will be a risk that the screws will damage the sheet.

Next, carefully “join” the next panel using the mounting shelf with the starting one, and fix it with fasteners. Thus, the PVC panels are alternately fastened to each other. Connect them together with great care to prevent damage. Also, you can not leave gaps or cracks, PVC panels must fit snugly against each other. If necessary, you can make a "fit" with the help of gentle blows of a rubber mallet.

Before installing the last PVC panel, measure the remaining uncovered ceiling space with a tape measure.- often the plastic panel does not fit completely there, therefore it must be cut off. At the same time, make sure that the cut is as even as possible, and there should be no gaps between the PVC finish panel and the installation profile.

The final stage - landing on glue ceiling plinths. After that, the suspended ceiling made of PVC panels can be considered finished. Further, it is already possible to carry out the installation of lamps, wall decoration and cleaning of construction debris.

Video - We make a ceiling from PVC panels

As you can see, fixing PVC panels to the ceiling is a fairly simple task that does not require you to have much knowledge and experience in construction. Therefore, for self-finishing a room and, in particular, a ceiling, plastic panels are the best possible option.

Until recently, we could not even imagine what could be done with the ceiling, except to whitewash or cover with a water-based emulsion. If you wanted something "cheerful", they covered it with wallpaper. With the advent of new building materials in our lives, completely new ceiling finishing technologies began to appear. The arsenal of such design solutions includes the installation of stretch, suspended, mineral, glass, mirror, stained glass, plasterboard ceilings, as well as sheathed with wooden or plastic panels. Let's talk today how to make a plastic ceiling.

Features of plastic ceilings

Plastic panels for such ceilings are made of polyvinyl chloride - a safe and harmless material. In our country, PVC panels are used everywhere for finishing ceilings and walls, as well as for the manufacture of containers for food and products. So do not doubt the environmental friendliness of the material.

It is important to remember that plastic panels for walls and ceilings are different, and it is not recommended to buy one to replace the other. Ceiling panels are much lighter, and this is an important detail, although their mechanical strength is much lower. If you use wall panels when installing the ceiling, there will be a large load on the frame, and this is not very safe. And using plastic panels for the ceiling when decorating walls, you can observe their deformation over time.

The plastic ceiling is a type of false ceilings. A plastic sheathing is mounted on the frame, which is attached with special suspensions. For the frame you need wooden slats (you can use a metal profile). For the manufacture of the ceiling itself, you can use simple inexpensive materials, but it is better to invest in better plastic. Fixing plastic panels on the ceiling is provided by skirting boards for plastic ceilings and a shaped profile.

When installing plastic ceilings, there is one caveat. The appearance of the surface depends on the selected panels. When buying glossy panels, the joining seams on such a ceiling will be hardly noticeable, they are practically invisible. The glossy ceiling is a reflective surface that looks quite original. If you plan to make a ceiling of matte, colored and patterned panels, then be prepared that the seams will be visible quite clearly.

Advantages of a plastic ceiling

If you, when making repairs in your apartment, are planning to make a plastic ceiling, your choice is quite far-sighted, because such a ceiling has many advantages. Firstly, if the neighbors flood you, the plastic ceiling will not have to be redone, and if the flooding is not serious, you will not notice anything at all. And this is a big plus, because the ceiling, pasted with wallpaper or whitewashed, would have to be whitewashed or glued a second time.

At the end of the work, you will receive a perfectly flat ceiling, which, if desired, can be washed with water or detergents. But even if you do not bother to take care of the plastic ceiling, it still will not lose its beauty and originality. Even in the event of a temperature difference, the ceiling will retain its flat surface. Wallpapered ceilings fade over time, and plastic ones will retain their appearance for many years.

With the help of such a ceiling, you can not only hide large irregularities or pipes, but also turn them into a particle of the interior by arranging beautiful modern lamps in that place. The ceiling can be made not only smooth, but also embossed, using wide panels with contours. Another advantage of a plastic false ceiling is its price. Of course, this is not the cheapest type of ceiling, but, nevertheless, it will cost you much less than, for example, a stretch ceiling. In addition, the air gap that forms between the ceiling and the plastic creates good sound insulation.

Since PVC panels are surprisingly moisture resistant, it is logical to install them in the bathroom. When flooded, plastic panels are able to withstand the weight of water and not be afraid of the main enemy of moisture called mold. Especially if PVC panels are also installed on the walls and in the kitchen. For the same reason, such material is great for lining a home kitchen. Plastic panels in the kitchen are especially good, because such a ceiling is easy to clean with ordinary detergents, and, as you know, with the constant operation of the gas stove, all surfaces are polluted with soot.

The choice of plastic for mounting

First you need to calculate how much material you need. It's easy enough if you know the area of ​​the ceiling. If not, then it can be measured. A complex configuration room will need to be divided into parts - rectangular sections on the ceiling, then the results should be rounded up. If the room is rectangular, it will be easier to measure everything.

When buying, you just need to look at the packaging - the area of ​​\u200b\u200bone plastic panel must be indicated there. Also take into account the number of panels in the package, consider how many panels you need to cover the entire area and add a little (taking into account trimming and the like).

You can determine the type and color of plastic directly during the purchase. The design of the whole room depends on which panels you choose for mounting the plastic ceiling. White panels are the cheapest, while patterned and textured panels will cost more. All panels must be in the same color (color scheme) and the pattern, if any, must be accurate and correct. If a panel that catches your eye is lighter than the rest, or, on the contrary, very dark, it is best to change it to one that fits perfectly into the overall tone of all panels.

When you buy a material such as plastic, you need to be very careful and inspect each panel, because defective models are not desirable to use. When you bought plastic, when transporting it to the house, remember that it cannot be damaged, because then during installation it will not fulfill its function and will not create perfectly even joints.

Choice of materials and tools

So, first you should get acquainted with the most common profiles for attaching plastic panels:

  1. The starting profile that is most frequently encountered. Such structures serve to close the ends of the panels and are attached to the ceiling along the perimeter of the entire room.
  2. H-profile is also called connecting. Based on the name, it is used to increase the length of the panels.
  3. F-profile is designed to close the ends of the plastic panels at the outer corners when moving to another plane. That is, one wall is sheathed with PVC panels, but the one around the corner is not.
  4. The plastic ceiling plinth is essentially the same starting profile, but a little ennobled.
  5. The outer and inner plastic corner are used to close the end panels at the inner and outer corners.
  6. A universal plastic corner can be glued to any corners, but it does not look promising.

To determine the number of profiles, you need a pre-drawn scheme. Draw on paper a proportionally reduced ceiling. It should be borne in mind that the profiles should be 60 centimeters apart from each other. Thus, it will be easier to deal with the number of bars, the footage of the plinth and profile. You will also need to buy suspensions for the frame, lamps (if necessary) and fasteners.

Profiles are also required that are attached around the perimeter. The number of self-tapping screws for fastening panels and dowels, which are necessary for fixing the profiles, is calculated taking into account the number of required profiles plus the margin. If desired, replace the profiles with wooden beams and use staples instead of self-tapping screws. So you can reduce the cost of the process and simplify the assembly of plastic panels.

To calculate the amount of ceiling plinth required, divide the ceiling perimeter by 3 (if the segment is 3 meters long). From the tools you will need: a ruler, a wallpaper knife, a tape measure, a building level, a hacksaw, drills, a stepladder. As well as a drill, puncher, dowels, self-tapping screws, paint cord, hangers and ceiling profiles. When all the tools are prepared and the materials are purchased, you can start installing the ceiling.

Preparatory work

Basically, preparatory work when installing a plastic ceiling with your own hands is not needed, but if you wish, you can sand it with medium grit sandpaper. Of course, if you are making such a ceiling in a room with increased humidity, for example, in a bathroom, it is better to treat the concrete floor with an antifungal compound.

The first step is to determine the level of the future ceiling (how many centimeters it will be lowered down). If you still decide to mount the lamps, do not forget to leave room for them. Basically, the fixtures have a depth of five to ten centimeters.

If you mount the fixtures yourself, pay attention to the resistance of the wire you buy, but without certain knowledge in this matter, it is better to turn to a professional. It is better to fix the wires above the plastic in advance and bring them to the switch. The wiring must be isolated and hidden behind the profiles. Next, we make markings on the wall around the perimeter.

Mounting the box on the ceiling

When determining the horizontal, it is important to remember that the slanting ceiling will be striking, so you need to measure everything more than once, first measuring the height of all corners and choosing the lowest one. Then you should retreat 5 centimeters to the floor and mark the horizontal, using the water level. In the corners and on the ledges, you should leave marks, as in the photo of plastic ceilings. Further, using a masking cord, beat off the lines that were previously determined.

On the marked strip, which shows how much lower the ceiling will be, you need to drill holes for the dowels. This should be done with a drill or puncher. Through the profile you need to make holes directly. Insert the dowels into these holes, and attach the ceiling profile to the wall. The usual length of such profiles is three meters, but they can also be connected to each other if you suddenly have a very large room by inserting one into one. At the same time, do not forget to fasten the profiles to each other with bugs.

Along the entire perimeter of the room, a profile should be attached to the wall, and on the ceiling - suspensions to which the ceiling profile will be attached. Hangers should be mounted along a straight line. The desired lines can be created using a masking cord, not forgetting the distance (about 60 centimeters from one another).

After that, you need to pull the thread-fishing line. This must be done as shown in the video about plastic ceilings, across the entire room, from wall to wall. Further, this thread should be attached to the dowels that already hold the profile. It is important to remember that if you pull the fishing line incorrectly or not tight enough, sagging cannot be avoided, but you need to get a perfectly even horizontal line.

At the level of the thread, the profile should be fixed. This requires an assistant who will hold the profile so that it is as close as possible to the thread, but does not touch it. Having attached the profile to the suspensions, you need to bend them. When the frame is built, you can proceed to the ceiling sheathing with plastic. The plastic itself is recommended to be fixed with self-tapping bugs, not forgetting the points of contact with the profile. It is better to seal even the smallest seams with silicone, and remove excess material with a spatula so that the ceiling looks neat.

plastic ceiling lining

When you start working directly with plastic, pay attention to the room. If it is slightly skewed and uneven around the perimeter, then the first strip of plastic must be cut off very carefully in order to properly hide this flaw. It is necessary that the following strips are attached to the profile perfectly, at a right angle.

It is important to know before making a plastic ceiling that the installation of panels can be carried out not only across the room. You can install the panels along and diagonally, and the colors can thus be easily combined if you want to get an original ceiling with an unusual pattern as a result. If you have chosen thin plastic, then it can be bent, trimming the corners, this will help create an unusual design. There is also a special corner plastic that hides the panel joints. With the help of plastic, you can also make a multi-level ceiling.

Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling starts from one wall. They need to be cut exactly along the length of the surface with a hacksaw, jigsaw or grinder. When cutting the first panel, it needs to be made a little shorter than the width of the room, by about 3-5 millimeters. Clean the edges with a sandpaper or abrasive mesh. Try not to wrinkle the panels. And most importantly - before installation, do not forget to remove the film from them!

It is necessary to work carefully, because this material is quite fragile. Plastic should be treated with care before plating. If you have already caused damage to the purchased plastic, you can try to hide them with silicone, preferably white. This option will not work if you opted for colored plastic, because silicone is white and transparent.

Fasten the first panel tightly with self-tapping screws on the profiles, fasten all subsequent panels to the rails of the mounting profiles according to the type of constructor. The most difficult stage of the whole procedure is the installation of the last panel. You need to cut along the length by a millimeter less than the distance from one wall to the starting profile at the opposite one. Insert the panel with one side as far as it will go into the profiles, directly into the corner.

The second end will hang freely, slide the panel out of the first corner and insert it. Between the penultimate and last panel you will have a small gap, but they need to be joined somehow. Sometimes you can do it on your own, but most of the time it doesn't work. Then you can use masking tape. Glue a couple of strips across the last panel and pull it up to the previous one.

To mount the luminaire, mark the location on the panel with a pencil. Then you need to cut a hole using a clerical knife. Insert a lamp into the hole and connect the wire to it. Wires need to be run under the ceiling. If you need to install several fixtures, it is recommended to connect them in parallel to each other.

At the end of the installation, the room will change a lot. But it will still need to be glued with a frieze around the perimeter. This is done in order to hide the plastic attachment points. And given the moisture resistance and practicality of such a ceiling, we can say that this is a fairly profitable choice for repairs in your home.

When choosing a finish for the ceiling, it is recommended to consider those types that can be implemented with your own hands. Suspended structures are practical in this regard, which do not require preliminary cleaning and leveling of the rough base. Installation of PVC panels on the ceiling carried out on a pre-equipped frame.

Where is the best place to apply

The main enemy of any finish (including ceiling) is high humidity. The most humid rooms in the house and apartment are the kitchen and the toilet. In the presence of poor ventilation, water and other fumes begin to settle on the surface of the ceiling, provoking gradual deterioration of the material and the appearance of fungus. For such conditions, you need to select a moisture-resistant finish. Plastic panels meet these requirements.

Advantages and disadvantages

Looking closely at the building material, the first thing to study is its characteristics. Ceiling PVC panels are plastic lamellas (length - 270-300 cm, width - 25-30 cm), equipped at the ends with elements of the "thorn-groove" connection.

Material advantages:

  1. Long service life. If you follow all the recommendations for installation and operation, then the panels will last for several decades.
  2. Not complicated installation and maintenance. You can install a ceiling made of PVC panels with your own hands even alone: ​​the main thing here is to build the frame correctly. In the future, the lined surface is allowed to be washed using gentle detergents. In this regard, plastic trim is more convenient than.
  3. Light weight. The lightness of individual elements simplifies their transportation and installation.
  4. Moisture resistance. In this regard, plastic materials have no equal. PVC ceiling panels can be used in the wettest rooms - bathrooms, toilets, saunas, swimming pools. Even constant exposure to water on a surface finished in this way will not harm it in any way.
  5. decorative possibilities. On sale, plastic lining is presented in a significant color and texture variety, which allows you to choose a shade for finishing the bathroom. Various imitations of stone, wood and plaster look very nice. In general, the suspension system allows you to quickly and efficiently level the surface of the ceiling of any room, without the use of time-consuming "wet" processes.
  6. Ease of communications. Thanks to the mounting gap between the decorative surface and the base, it is very convenient to hide various communications and wires there. In the plastic panels themselves, you can easily make holes for the lamps.
  7. Environmental friendliness. The composition of modern building plastics does not include harmful components with an unpleasant odor.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out a common weak point for all suspended structures - they somewhat hide the living space. For this reason, this finish is not recommended for use in rooms with low ceilings. You can also highlight some simplicity and unpretentiousness of plastic panels, which are inferior to more expensive rack or stained glass systems.

Do-it-yourself step-by-step instructions for installing PVC panel ceilings

In order for the suspended ceiling made of pvc panels to be as beautiful and durable as possible, it is important to follow a certain sequence of operations during its installation.

Purchase of material

There are a lot of varieties of plastic panels: they have different sizes, design and texture. Of particular importance is the width of the individual slats. In small rooms it is better to take lining up to 25 cm wide, for larger rooms - products of greater width (for example, 50 cm). To calculate the required amount of material, first determine the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe finished ceiling, multiplying its width by its length. The resulting number is divided by the area of ​​​​one plate (usually this parameter is indicated on the package), adding at least 15% to the result for cutting.

In addition to panels, you also need to purchase special connecting elements:

  1. starting profile. It is attached around the entire perimeter of the finish in order to cover the ends of the lamellas.
  2. Profile F. With its help, corners and transitions from one plane to another are formed.
  3. Connector. It is used to build up the frame or individual panels.
  4. Decorative corner. This element covers the outer ends at the inner corners.
  5. Plinth for the ceiling. Designed to improve the suspension system around the perimeter.
  6. Universal corner. Allows you to neatly decorate any corner area.

For the construction of the work frame, you will need metal profiles or wooden blocks. Their calculation is most conveniently carried out using the drawn up drawing.

Parallel lines are drawn along the long walls in increments of 40-60 cm: after that, it is quite easy to determine the total length of these guides. Along the perimeter of the room, a more rigid supporting profile or beam will be required. When calculating the fastening material, the total number of guides and the fastening step are taken into account (usually 30 cm). When choosing between a wooden or metal frame, the inexpensive price of the first option and ease of installation are taken into account, and the second - increased moisture resistance.

To work, you also need to stock up on the following tool:

  • tape measure and pencil (marker);
  • building level and corner;
  • twine;
  • scissors for metal;
  • miter box;
  • hacksaw for wood and metal;
  • grinder and disc up to 2 mm;
  • impact drill or hammer drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • extension cord.

Foundation preparation

As already mentioned, when installing PVC panels, preliminary leveling of the base is not carried out. In this case, elementary preparatory measures are sufficient. The rough surface must be freed from old finishes, lighting fixtures, dirt and dust. It is advisable to remove too weak areas of the base with a pick, sealing the holes formed with coarse putty. After the solution dries, the entire base is treated with antibacterial impregnation.

Marking

Before you make a suspended ceiling from PVC panels, you need to mark the base. To indicate the general level of the suspended structure, each of the walls of the room being finished is marked with a line. In this case, you must immediately select the type of fixtures. The presence of differences, laying of hidden communications are also taken into account. For further convenience of laying the wiring from the upper edge of the crate to the base, leave at least 20 mm: in this case, it is most practical to mount the frame on suspensions.

The most lowered overlap point is selected as a landmark for marking. Based on it, the walls are equipped with appropriate marks: for their application, you need a water level. You can get a solid line when using a chalk thread: with its help, the connecting sections between individual points are beaten off. In a similar way, the installation site of the transverse mounting jumpers is marked: they are installed strictly perpendicular to the direction of laying the lamellas, at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other.

The construction of the mounting crate


As a material for the frame, wooden bars or a metal profile for drywall are used. If finishing is carried out in a room with a high level of humidity, it is recommended to use a metal crate. It is very convenient to align these structures thanks to special suspensions that allow you to lower the level of the finish surface by 30-40 mm. To avoid significant concealment of the living space, it is recommended to make the distance from the ceiling to the crate no more than 4 cm.

First of all, the perimeter of the room along the broken line is drawn up with a starting profile 27 × 28. Then the main profile 60×27 is installed. The selection of fasteners is carried out depending on the material of the walls.

Using dowel-nails, you will need to pre-equip the profile and walls with the appropriate holes. When installing the starting profile, it is necessary to apply a level, this will allow the initial and final segment of the perimeter to converge at one point.

At the next stage, metal suspensions are fixed along pre-cut longitudinal lines. The optimal distance between the individual devices is 80 cm. For fastening, self-tapping screws or dowel-nails are also used here: after installation, it is better to bend them immediately, which will simplify the installation of the main guides. Adjusting the main profile along the length, a gap of 5 mm must be left along each edge, the resulting segments are inserted inside the starting profile, fixing on self-tapping screws to the suspensions. During this procedure, it is necessary to check the guides for horizontality and straightness.

Panel mounting

The finished frame around the perimeter is made out with a special U-profile, inside which a ceiling plinth is inserted. This will allow you to get an installation distance between them and the crate for installing the first lamella. Convenient in this regard, the ceiling of PVC panels in the bathroom, because this room usually has an even rectangular shape. This makes it possible to initially cut panels of the same size, making a margin of 5 mm for the thickness of the profile.

The first strip is inserted inside the U-shaped profile with a spike forward: it is fixed to the frame with a self-tapping screw with a wide cap. The spike of the second panel is immersed in the groove of the previous one (for convenience, you can help yourself with a narrow spatula). Carrying out a further set of lamellas, it is important to achieve their tight fit to each other. The last strip, as a rule, needs to be cut longitudinally: this must be done carefully. The assembled plastic surface is formed along the perimeter with a ceiling plinth cut at an angle of 45º. To mask the corner joints, special overhead plugs are used.

Ceiling lighting device


To mount in lamps, it is necessary to accurately mark their location even at the stage of frame construction. This will allow you to initially bring the wiring to the desired sections. Seats for lighting fixtures are cut out during the installation of the panels, for which a sharp knife or cutter is used - this will ensure the accuracy of their placement. In the completed niches, the installation and switching of fixtures is immediately carried out. The electrical wiring is released outside, and the installation of lighting is carried out upon completion of the finishing work.

During subsequent operation, plastic panels are quite unpretentious to external factors - they can be wiped from time to time with a wet sponge.

Only needs special care, because. in addition to ordinary moisture, fat deposits and soot accumulate on its surface. In this case, non-abrasive detergents are used for cleaning.

Results

Suspended PVC ceiling - not a difficult type for self-implementation of all such structures. Despite their simplicity, plastic panels are popular for finishing kitchens, bathrooms and loggias. With the subsequent care of the finished surface, there are not so many restrictions on how to wash plastic panel ceilings.

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