Cement screed in some places 2 cm. How to make a floor screed - step-by-step self-filling technology

The screed is the layer between the concrete base of the floor and its top coat. It is necessary for high-quality leveling of the floor. The durability of the result of the work depends on the screed. Screed installation is needed regardless of the type of coating used: parquet, tile, linoleum, laminate, carpet, etc.

According to the manufacturing method

1. Wet. It is a cement-sand mixture. A special dry composition is also sold - it is made on a cement basis, or using gypsum. They are poured and the surface is completely leveled. If cement or sand was used for the screed, the surface is reinforced. Dry mixes do not require this procedure. The option is universal, common in construction. 10 cm or less is the optimal layer thickness.
2. Dry. Also called a screed. Represents a design from sheets of the large size from 15 to 30 mm thick. In the case of strong surface differences in levels, the dryness of the screed will not allow achieving the desired degree of leveling. Then, under the floor covering, a layer of dry screed is placed on top of the wet one.
3. Semi-dry. It differs from the classic, wet, manufacturing method by a significantly smaller amount of water in the mixture. The advantages of this type of screed are a short period of time between laying the screed and the floor, no leaks. The presence of fiber in the composition of the mixture allows you to minimize the number of shrinkage cracks.

   
   

Mechanized semi-dry floor screed provides a minimum amount of construction debris after laying. The mixture is usually kneaded outdoors and fed through a hose. For convenience, you can contact the companies involved in laying semi-dry floor screed. One of these, "EUROSTROY 21 VEK" (the company's website www.prestigehouse.ru), uses modern equipment and German technologies in its work.

By number of layers

1. Single layer. It is laid for 1 time to the required thickness.
2. Multilayer. Consists of rough and finish surfaces. For example, to ensure rigidity at the junction of the slabs with the ceiling, a rough concrete version is first laid, and when finishing, an absolutely smooth finishing screed is laid on top. Rough screed in thickness - 20 mm or more, finishing screed - from 3 to 20 mm.

By type of connection

1. Solid. It is firmly bonded to the base coat layer.
2. floating. Not linked to anything. It is used when it is necessary to use a film with waterproofing properties, as well as sound or heat insulation. The optimal thickness is 35 mm or more.

Screed materials

Cement is the most common screed binder, as is gypsum. The following fillers improve the properties of the mixture: sand, polymers, mineral-based additives. To obtain the desired consistency, the composition is diluted with water.

1. . The screed from it is moisture resistant, it is used for any type of floor structure. Cement is mixed with sand, the optimal ratio is 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand.

   There is also sand concrete - a mixture sold in stores. Sand concrete has a drawback - fast shrinkage. Therefore, it is necessary to monitor the uniformity of the composition and the thickness of the poured layer, which must be at least 30 mm, otherwise the screed will crack.

   For uniform stress distribution and protection from cracking, the screed is reinforced from the inside or a part of the propylene-based fiber is added to the solution. After laying, the screed is periodically moistened, for about 10-14 days. The screed dries for a long time and for moisture-sensitive coatings - laminate and parquet - it will remain too wet for at least 20 days.

2. Gypsum. Plastic, easy-to-install screed. Does not shrink, laying it in a thin layer is allowed. Complete drying - in 1-2 days. Recommended for wooden floors. But it is not suitable for rooms with high humidity, as the gypsum will become like dough. If polymers are added to the gypsum, the screed can be used in rooms with moderate humidity.
3. Concrete. In terms of composition and manufacturing technology, a concrete screed is similar to a cement screed. The main difference is that cellular concrete is added to the mixture. There are types of concrete screed: foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, perlite concrete.
4. Self-levelling or self-levelling compound. Sold in finished form, designed for various floor coverings. It happens thin-layer, from 2 to 7 mm, and thick-layer, from 5 to 30 mm. If the floor irregularities are large, a rough rough screed is first made, and a self-leveling mixture is placed on top.
5. . The composition is similar to drywall. Represents the strong construction plates covered with a waterproofing structure. Laying is done on a pre-filled layer of polystyrene. The plates are placed with a slight overlap on each other to close the joints. The main advantage of the screed is that you do not need to wait for drying. The final floor covering can be installed the next day. Often used for mounting screeds in apartments.

materials

1. 1. 1. Concrete mixer.
      2. Hydraulic level.
      3. Rule.
      4. Construction bubble level.
      5. Master OK.
      6. Drill with mixing nozzle.
      7. Stationery knife.
      8. Bucket.
      9. Pencil, marker.
      10. Roulette.
      11. Ruler.

Stages of work

Stage 1. Definition of the horizon

The zero level is measured using a spirit level - this is how the water level is called. Marks are placed in all rooms. The optimal height is from 1.2 to 1.5 m from the floor level. The starting mark is placed anywhere. The second and all subsequent ones are marked by the water level along the horizon line, but not the floor.

All points connect and get a zero level. Throughout all installation work, it will determine the horizontal plane. Check the zero level accuracy several times.

Sometimes expanded clay or gravel is poured under the screed. Then they retreat a few cm from the marked point and make an additional line for pouring the selected pillow material under the screed at this level.

Stage 2. Determine the height differences

This is necessary to calculate the correct level of screed and the required volume of mortar.

In different rooms we measure the distance from the old floor to the zero level point. We write the resulting value at each measurement point. It is better to make more points so that the measurements are more accurate. The minimum value is the maximum level of the old floor, and the largest value indicates its minimum height. The difference in values ​​is the height difference of the old floor.

For example, max = 1.30 m, min = 1.25 m.

1,30 – 1,25 = 0,05.

That is, the height difference is 5 cm.

30 mm - the minimum thickness of the cement screed, where the plasticizer is added. Earlier, we already mentioned that otherwise cracks will go along the screed. Builders sometimes add liquid soap as a plasticizer. And on the packaging of the self-leveling mixture, the manufacturer indicates the optimal layer thickness.

With a multi-level screed - calculation of the difference in heights. Differences in height along the level of the floor at the joints of the coatings are not allowed. The screed is planned differently by levels: the thickness of the coatings is not identical. The difference in it must be compensated for by differences in the levels of the screed.

For example, in the kitchen - ceramic tiles, in the room - parquet. The layer under parquet will be thicker than for tiles and is multi-layered. We sum up the thickness of all layers, including the parquet itself, subtract the sum of the layers of the tile, including itself. We get a screed drop. It is recommended to take a spare 2 mm from the side of the tile if the parquet layer is higher.

Stage 3. Surface preparation

We clean the base coat. Usually a construction vacuum cleaner is used. In its absence, you can simply sweep well, then wash everything with a regular cleaning agent. With the help of a primer, additional dedusting can be done. It is optimal to use the Betonokontakt agent - it provides good adhesion for the screed and the base, makes the surface rough.

Partitions and walls require temporary waterproofing. For this purpose, you can use roofing material. The height of the roofing tape sticker is 10-15 cm from the level of the screed.

Next, we look at the base. Delaminations are not allowed, they must be cleaned. If there are large cracks, cover them with a thick mortar based on non-shrinking cement. If the floors were “ironized” during construction or smeared with “milk from cement”, then the film is removed so that there is proper adhesion to the base coat.

Stage 4. Setting up beacons

The screed is aligned on them. Rigid elements are usually used as them - metal profiles that can be fixed in a fixed position and not be afraid that they will bend at an unnecessary moment.

The mounting method is different: you can build a hill of cement or simply screw the beacons into the floor. An important requirement is the parallelism of the guides. The distance between adjacent ones should allow putting on the ends of the rail, along which the composition will be leveled.

Beacons with the help of a rack level are aligned in length and ratio with each other. Where height differences are formed, plywood formwork is placed so that the solution cannot flow into another room or area.

Stage 5. Mixing the composition and pouring the screed

Few people do it manually, they often use a concrete mixer - this way the composition is more uniform. Do not increase the proportion of water for the homogeneity of the mixture, otherwise the screed will be fragile. For this purpose, special additives are sold that make the solution plastic and homogeneous.

The filling should resemble a thick dough without lumps, spreading, but not spreading over the surface. It is used for 1-1.5 hours and in one go. It is not allowed to leave it for several days. Also, you can not fill the room in parts for several days. An exception is a screed of different levels or different rooms.

The solution is poured between the beacons and leveled with a rail-rule, which is moved strictly along the beacons, shifting the excess mixture. To level the surface of the screed, the rule additionally makes movements to the right and left.

The process of leveling the concrete mass using the rule

Video - Floor screed

Stage 6. Post-installation care

A simple operation often overlooked by workers. It consists in watering the coating 2 times a day. If this is not done, the screed will crack. Irrigation period - 10 days.

The cement screed needs up to 28 days until it becomes strong enough. The chemical processes that take place require sufficient moisture.

Beacons are pulled out approximately 3 days after the end of the installation of the screed. The recesses are primed and filled with a new portion of the solution. After that, we moisten the coating again and cover it with a polyethylene film for 2 weeks. In some cases, this is not recommended, then moisturizing is also done often - 2 times a day.

Stage 7. Checking work

It is done in several stages.

hallway o. small - 1.2 in length and 2.4 meters in width. wardrobe is required. Planned along the wall. The classic cabinet depth of 60 cm will gobble up the floor of the hallway, so it was decided to make the depth 40 cm ("shoulders" along, and not across, will have to be placed in the cabinet). I looked at the closet from the gallery "photo from Gregory", photo #19, as a suitable option. But there are no frame-by-frame recommendations for its manufacture ((((((I realized that first the frame is made (the left wall of the cabinet in the photo), the plasterboard is sheathed, and then the "filling" is sized inward. So? And what kind of light strip is at the top and bottom closet? Is this also a sheathed GKL profile?

• 110 responses

Show something different from the tables on the blog, otherwise I haven’t been for a long time.

Children's themes have recently captured me not childishly. Various items were asked to make in the kindergarten.

The first subject, educational, necessary and useful. This is a traffic light, by which children will learn the rules of the road, a paramount thing.

I’ll make a reservation right away, they also made a version of the pedestrian with little men, but simpler from cardboard.

In principle, this three eyes were also asked to make a cardboard-simple one, but how can I do it without problems)) I thought, why not make a reliable academic subject right away, and I did. How much is enough.

The concept of the figure is as follows, large enough for everyone to see, stable, durable and with a swivel mechanism, the meaning is that there are 4 sides, one side shows all the signals for a general understanding of the device.

The other three sides on one signal, the teacher can turn and show any color from 3 and ask the kids about its purpose.

In general, I thought it would be right

The initial thoughts about color circles on magnets and other light bulbs had to be canceled, we need a simple, understandable solution that is difficult to break, magnet circles can be lost, battery bulbs fail.

I don't know if it worked out, but time will tell.

The whole base is MDF, which glued the pva, for a temporary tack, also fastened it with a micro-pin.

Separately, I note that it is possible to make circles of various diameters on the circular and, most importantly, of the same size, using a non-tricky device, first we cut square blanks, and then on the device, rotating the part, cut off the corners to the polyhedron, and then rotating the part, we add to the circle.

I glued the box, the visors are halves of the eyes of the circles, I made a groove under them with a milling cutter, so such things cannot be reliably glued into the end.

The whole thing revolves on a pipe from the Joker system, in my opinion, for shelving, so that the stops do not fall out and fail, which I fixed with bedbugs.

I made the base massive and wide from thick layers of MDF, with such a base it is not so easy to tilt the traffic light on its side.

I played the fool and drilled through the pipe, I had to slap a plate from the return line.

I painted everything from a spray can, then varnished it, the thing is ready.

I did not paint the signal mugs, they are cut out of self-adhesive paper, so it is easier to update the demonstration item.

Who has read, look at the slides

Hello brothers in repair! For a long time I didn’t write anything here, and in general I rarely began to come in, everything somehow lacked time: now drinking, now partying, and now a new “attack” has attacked me. But knowing that you, in spite of everything, stubbornly do not forget me, I decided not to be a piglet, and to tell you about my new hobby. I'll start from afar: almost all my conscious life I worked as an electronic engineer, moreover, an engineer-developer of electronic and electrical devices of the widest class and purpose, and at the same time purely in the defense industry. It is clear that the scope of my amateur radio interests was limited only by my laziness, there were simply no restrictions in radio components for me, I had EVERYTHING! Well, following the trends of the then amateur radio fashion, I mainly focus on radios and amplifiers, essno, on transistors and microcircuits. I haven’t been working in this area for a long time, and I threw everything into a landfill for a long time, but in my soul all this time a dream was glimmering - to make a tube power amplifier, and not a simple one, but one that would make everyone gasp. And I must say, at work, for most of my time, I dealt with electric vacuum devices, radio tubes, if in a simple way, so this topic was well known to me. And then there is this fashion for a "warm tube sound", for which people literally go crazy. In short, a year ago I decided to make my dream come true. I immediately decided: the mainstream, conventional tube amplifiers with an output transformer, are not interesting to me, this is not a royal business! Why not invent a TRANSFORMERless tube amplifier for me. Well, I well imagined the difficulties along the way, and I had some thoughts of my own on this matter, but still I decided to consult with the radio amateurs. I found a suitable group on Facebook, started publishing in it myself, and somehow asked a question

Cement screed, or as it is also called "traditional screed", is rightfully considered the most reliable and economical in terms of cash costs. It is very often used in premises for various purposes, for example: in apartments, country houses, cafes, offices, shops, garages and so on. As the basis of such a cement-sand screed, a dry mix (sand concrete) M-150 or M-300 is used. And how much of this mixture for the screed is needed? Calculation of sand concrete for floor screed presented below.

Calculation of the mixture for floor screed

First of all, you need to measure the room. With the help of a laser level and a tape measure, we measure and measure the entire room and see where the differences are. We calculate how much m 2 we need to do, then we consider all the building materials necessary for work. It is especially important to correctly calculate the amount of dry mix required.

Example:

We need to make a screed in a room with an area 25 m2 thick 5 cm .
On the 1 m 2 at thickness 1 cm leaves about 22 kg mixtures.
Multiply 5 cm screeds on 22 kg mixture (5 x 22 = 110). Means 110 kg will weigh 1 m 2 our 5 cm screed.
Now 25 m2 multiply by 110 kg mixture (25 x 110 = 2750). Means 2 750 kg will weigh a screed of 5 cm on an area of ​​25 m 2.
Further 2 750 kg divided by the weight of a bag of dry mix (2,750kg: 50kg = 55). Means 55 mix bags weighing 50 kg we'll need.

The rest of the material is considered easily by floor area.

For the screed device we need:

1. Profile for lighthouses;
2. Dry mix M-150 or M-300;
3. Primer or concrete contact;
4. Reinforcing mesh (used on a loose basis);
5. Edge tape;
6. Vapor barrier film (on the second or third day it is necessary to spill the screed with water and cover with a film for 7 days). The process can be repeated again.

Note that a higher brand of the mixture indicates that the mixture contains more cement. Pure cement is marked M-500. Therefore, the higher the brand of dry mix, the stronger the screed will be.

Cement-sand screed hardens (gaining strength) within 30 days, during which time only tiles can be laid on it, other floor coverings can be installed after 30 days. The fact is that the moisture that is in the screed will be absorbed and ruin the coating. If the thickness of the screed is more than 5 cm, then we recommend using expanded clay on the bottom layer. It is light and will allow you to remove the total weight of the screed, therefore, the load on the floor slab will decrease.

When the sand concrete for the floor screed and other material is calculated and delivered to the facility, the master starts work. First of all, the floor slab is prepared for pouring the screed, that is, it is cleaned of all kinds of debris and primed. When the primer dries, we attach the edge tape to the wall, it is needed to relieve the tension of the screed. We install beacons with a pre-measured height. If it is necessary to use a reinforcing mesh, it must be lifted and fixed just below the center of the floor screed itself.

Preparing the mixture: 10 kg of dry mixture should be poured into 0.8 - 1.3 liters of clean water and stirred until a homogeneous mass without lumps with a construction mixer. The resulting mixture should be used within 1 hour.

Pour the finished mixture and tighten it with an even rail along the beacons, until the room is completely filled. After 2-3 days after pouring the screed, it must be shed with water and covered with a film. We withstand the screed for 30 days and the screed is ready for further use!

The screed is the upper part of the floor structure, which serves as the basis for laying the decorative floor covering. Modern repairs, carried out both in a new building and in apartments of old high-rise buildings, necessarily include work on filling the floor with a screed. In order to independently engage in the arrangement of floors, you need to know what materials will be required and what thickness of the floor screed for your apartment will be optimal. The nature of the work will largely depend on the characteristics of the room and the desired characteristics of the future floor.

Primary requirements

The screed layer in the entire floor structure performs a certain list of functions. With the help of this layer, the dynamic and static strength of the flooring is ensured, as well as a flat surface is created, which is necessary for high-quality laying of tiles, laminate or linoleum. The screed allows you to evenly distribute the load on those layers of the floor that are under it, thereby extending their life. With the help of a screed, they not only level the floor, but also create the slopes provided for by the repair project.

The screed in a living space must be strong enough to withstand the physical stress resulting from the arrangement of furniture and the movement of people living in it around the room. The screed layer must be equally dense throughout the floor, any voids inside it, as well as chips and cracks, are not allowed. If the room does not specifically provide for the organization of the floor with a slope of a certain degree, then in standard cases the surface after pouring should be horizontally flat with a maximum slope of 0.2%.

The thickness of the screed has a direct relationship with the duration of the service life and the strength of the floor structure. There is no specific figure indicating the optimal thickness of the subfloor. The thickness of the fill depends on the room in which the repair is being carried out, for what loads the floor is intended, and also what type of soil is used as a base. Both the choice of the thickness of the screed and the choice of the brand of cement for pouring it, the use or absence of reinforcing elements in the process of work depend on these indicators.

What can be a screed?

As a standard, there are three types of screed with respect to its thickness. The first type includes a draft floor of small thickness. What screed thickness is used in this case? To fill the floor, self-leveling mixtures are used, which are poured to a height of up to 2 cm. Preliminary laying of reinforcing elements in this case is not performed.

The second type of coating includes a floor with a height of up to 7 cm. Such a coating provides for the presence of reinforcement or reinforcing mesh and is made of reinforced concrete. The third type of subfloor is a screed with a maximum thickness of up to 15 cm, which is a monolith with reinforcement inside. A thick screed is used in cases where it must simultaneously play the role of both the floor and the foundation of the house, connected into one system.

The final thickness of the screed depends on the materials used in the process of arranging the floor. So, concrete pouring with the addition of crushed stone can no longer have a minimum thickness. In this case, due to the crushed stone fraction, a thin layer of the subfloor cannot be made. For pouring a thin layer, the best option would be to use self-leveling and other mixtures intended for finishing the floor before laying the floor covering. With the help of the mixture, a thin and even layer of screed is created, which, after drying, can be immediately used as a base for decorative material.

Particular attention is paid to the thickness of the screed when arranging underfloor heating. It is important here that the filling completely covers the heating elements. With standard pipe sizes of 2.5 cm, the total thickness of the screed for a warm water floor can be from 5 to 7 cm. It is not recommended to pour concrete to a height of more than 7 cm. According to experts, for the normal functioning of the floor and heating the room, a layer of concrete above the pipes of 4 cm is enough. A thicker layer will complicate the adjustment of the heat supply, since it will spend most of the energy on heating the concrete itself.

The maximum thickness of the screed can lead to another unpleasant consequence in the form of wall deformation. The concrete part of the floor expands when heated and has a mechanical effect on the walls of the room. The thicker the screed layer, the stronger this effect will be. To eliminate possible consequences, before pouring the concrete mixture, it is recommended to glue the walls around the perimeter with a special tape.

Minimum screed

According to SNiP, the minimum screed height in the floor structure can be 2 cm. But there is one feature here, which is that, depending on the material, the minimum screed height can be different. If the screed is made on the basis of metal cement, then a layer of 2 cm will be enough. If no reinforcing element is provided in the fill, then the minimum layer height cannot be less than 4 cm.

Such a requirement for a minimum screed is due to the fact that the flooring must be characterized by a certain strength and wear resistance. A thin screed simply cannot provide the required performance.

Filling a thin coating can only be carried out under several conditions, which include an existing subfloor, a surface leveled with a rough screed and the absence of reinforcement. A thin screed is not recommended for use in technical rooms, as well as where the mechanical load on the floors is very high. In an apartment, these rooms include a kitchen, a bathroom and an entrance hall - here experts advise pouring a rather thick screed.

A thin screed is used to create a leveling layer necessary for further work. The sequence of work on a flat ground surface is as follows:

• A layer of crushed stone and sand is poured, leveled and compacted with high quality;
• Waterproofing is laid, which is suitable for a simple plastic film;
• A reinforcing mesh is installed and beacons are set up;
• The concrete solution is poured.

The minimum thickness of the floor screed using a reinforcing mesh cannot be less than 4 cm. Due to the presence of the mesh and the low height of the screed, the concrete used for pouring must be made from fine crushed stone. Compliance with this requirement will allow you to fill the solution with a thin layer, and the final screed will be quite strong. To increase the strength of the coating, it is recommended to add special plasticizers to the solution.

Maximum screed

There is no specific maximum possible thickness of the screed. The height of the fill will depend on many factors: the value is determined separately for each case. In terms of technology, a height of more than 15-17 cm does not make sense; structures with such a height are created only if necessary, since they require a lot of time and materials.

It makes sense to thicken the layer if you are arranging the floor in a room where there are heavy loads on the floor. The simplest example of such a room is a garage: the weight of the car and its impact on the floor when moving are large, so the height of the screed of 15 cm is fully justified.

A high screed is also used in situations where it will be part of the supporting structure. In this case, a monolithic pour of great thickness becomes not only a floor, but a foundation. Experts recommend increasing the thickness of the screed if problematic soil acts as the base of the floor structure.

Sometimes the height of the concrete pour is increased in order to hide significant surface differences. In practice, significant irregularities in the original surface are quite common, but a large screed thickness is not the only way to eliminate them.

Before deciding to pour a 15 cm high screed, many builders advise evaluating the possibility of using crushed stone or expanded clay to level the differences. Fix sharp drops with a powerful jackhammer. If surface defects can be corrected in these ways, then the need for pouring concrete to a great height disappears by itself.

The minimum fill layer in this situation is also not suitable, however, you will need a much smaller amount of material to screed the floor. If you level huge surface differences of 15 cm in size only with the help of concrete mortar, then your costs for the concrete itself and for the payment of the builders' work will add up to a round sum. Most often, high costs will not be justified, so it is worth doing at least partial leveling with a bulk layer of crushed stone.

Pouring a screed of maximum thickness during the installation of warm water floors is also not financially justified. The large thickness of the cement layer above the heating elements will cause the floor to warm up slowly. The efficiency of such a design will ultimately be low, and heating costs will be simply huge.

How to fill?

Filling the floor screed can be done in two ways: either with cement mortar or with a special dry mix. With the first method, you will get a concrete screed as a result, in the second - a semi-dry screed. Which option to choose?

Concrete pouring is the most popular, but to use it you need to know a few important points. The solution itself is prepared from cement, sand and water. Experts recommend buying cement not lower than the M-300 grade - with a particle fraction of 3-5 mm, such material will ensure high quality of the final coating. The use of not sand, but its screening for the preparation of a solution, will also have a positive effect on the final result: the adhesion of screening particles is much better.

To increase the strength of the future flooring and prevent cracking and destruction of the screed into crumbs, it is necessary to add plasticizers to the cement mortar. At this point, special attention should be paid to those who are going to make a screed for warm water floors. Plasticizers are special additives that increase the strength and plasticity of the concrete layer.

The use of plasticizers for the preparation of a solution is also necessary for thin flooring. The minimum thickness of the screed without them can be only 4-5 cm, for a concrete floor of a smaller thickness, the addition of plasticizers to the solution is a necessary condition.

Concrete screed takes a long time to dry. The solution must dry itself; it is strictly forbidden to turn on a warm floor for this. Drying of the floor is carried out within a month, and the surface is periodically wetted with water to avoid cracking.

Arrangement of the floor with the help of special semi-dry mixtures has recently gained popularity. Such a screed does not require the addition of a large amount of water, dries faster and has greater strength. The range of special mixtures for the repair of floors today is quite large.

Unlike a concrete solution, a semi-dry screed will take a much shorter amount of time, the main thing is to wait for the period specified by the manufacturer. After its expiration, you can start laying the decorative coating and turn on the heating system if you installed a warm floor. The use of dry mixes for pouring floors looks preferable when the time allotted for repair work is limited.

A semi-dry screed requires less financial costs, but the performance characteristics of the final coating significantly exceed those of a concrete screed. The coating of such mixtures has better noise and heat insulation, is more resistant to cracks and delamination. After the material hardens, a perfectly flat surface is obtained, ready for laying laminate or parquet boards.

The price per square meter of floor screed seriously affects the cost of the entire repair, because. These works are quite laborious and costly. In this article, we will analyze the prices for the services of workers, as well as the average cost of the necessary materials for the screed.

Based on our review, we can draw preliminary conclusions and calculations on the final amount.

As we already wrote in, the main material here will be a dry mix for floor screed. The prices of different manufacturers do not differ significantly from each other, so we recommend choosing the options "by ear".

The price of a bag (25 kilograms) of a self-leveling floor will average 350 rubles. You can buy a mixture and much cheaper, but the quality of the mixture will be in question.

In addition to the mixture itself, you need to buy metal "beacons" that will help make the floor perfectly flat. Their standard size is 3 meters in length, and the price is about 35 rubles apiece.

The average cost of floor screed work

The price of a floor screed per m 2 depends heavily on the required layer thickness. The price of work with a minimum thickness of 2-3 cm will be about 350 rubles per 1 sq.m.

In some cases, a thickness of 30 mm is enough, but if the rough surface is not even, it is better to increase the thickness to 4-5 centimeters, respectively, and the price of the fence will increase to about 500 rubles per 1 square meter. At the same time, prices in different companies and different regions can vary significantly, so we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the offers of several companies.

To save almost half of all funds for floor screed, we recommend that you read the article on our website about self-filling the floor with your own hands.

Approximate calculation of the price of floor screed

Now, let's do some math. Take for example a room measuring 30 square meters (5 by 6 m), the required thickness of the screed is 3 centimeters.

The cost of beacons - you will need about 10 pieces of 3 m each. So their total cost will be - 350 rubles.

Now to the main calculation, to the mixture. The flow rate of the solution must be measured in cubic meters, which means: 30 sq.m. * 0.03 screed thickness = 0.9 cubic meters of solution.

Depending on the type of your dry sweep, the number of cubic meters of ready-made mortar from one bag can vary significantly, so check the information on the bag first. On average, about 0.016 cubic meters of the finished solution is obtained from one bag of the mixture.

That is, to fill a room of 30 sq.m., 3 centimeters thick, it will take about 55 bags of the mixture, or about 19,500 rubles.

The cost of work, if workers do the floor screed for you: 30 * 350 = 10,500 rubles.

Total expenses: 19500 + 10500 + 350 ~ 30,000 rubles.

The price of a floor screed per m 2 will be about 1000 rubles.