We make a beautiful and strong country table with our own hands. How to make a table with your own hands? We make a kitchen table with our own hands

The table is the second object after the stool, which a novice furniture maker should take up. The design of a simple table is no more complicated than that of a stool; an unpretentious comfortable table for a summer cottage or for a picnic can be built in half a day using a hacksaw, a hammer and a drill. But a table made using the same technology and slightly ennobled can also look great at home, on the left in the figure, instead of an expensively purchased one. However, the table also gives greater freedom of creative self-expression, it can be a significant and even key element of interior design, it is not for nothing that handicraft furniture makers are called carpenters, and not sofa makers, cabinetrs or bedside tables. Having mastered the carpentry craft, it will be possible to take up exclusive tables over time, the rest of the poses. there.

This article discusses how to make tables out of wood. Wood is an environmentally friendly, affordable and easily processed material with remarkable aesthetic qualities. In utilitarian products, she forgives rather gross mistakes for beginners, but fine woodwork requires high skill. Having learned how to make wooden things, then mastering glass, metal and plastic will be much easier.

Tool and workshop

To make a table with your own hands, you need a production room separate from the living rooms: woodwork, as you know, is dusty. In addition, such good means of toning and protecting wood as wood stains emit harmful fumes during staining; nitro-varnishes, too, although to a lesser extent. Therefore, home carpentry should be well ventilated, and preferably with forced ventilation. You can use the garage, but there will be a lot of sawdust, and they will not benefit the car. Better to work in the barn; if it doesn’t exist yet, then you can build it, but on the farm it will come in handy for a lot of things.

The usual carpentry tool, on the left in the figure, is enough for a start. But the work will go much faster, and the result will be better if modern achievements are brought to the rescue, right there:

• Swivel miter box, pos. 1, allows you to make saw cuts exactly in size and in angle in 2 planes. It is advisable to take it with a complete bow saw, so everything together will be cheaper, and the work will be more accurate. The miter box is a universal device, it will always come in handy and it is better to buy it.
• Also universal is a manual electric jigsaw with an inclined shoe, pos. 2, which allows you to cut at an angle to the vertical plane.
• Disc grinder, pos. 3 and 4, it makes it possible for a beginner to get the surface of a wooden plate in 5-15 minutes, on which an experienced carpenter with a skin in his hand will take at least an hour, and tape, pos. 5, also quickly and efficiently process the ends; there are also belt grinders for grooves and recesses with a protruding working body. These are already specialized tools, unsuitable for other work, and quite expensive, so it’s better to rent them first. True, craftsmen still successfully brush with grinders; artificially aging, a tree, but this is a delicate work.
• It is also preferable at first to rent a manual wood router, pos. 6, with a set of cutters. They process shaped edges, choose holes and grooves.

A universal household woodworking machine (UBDS) of various modifications is very useful on the farm. It is compact, fits on a table, powered by 220 V 50/60 Hz 380-500 W. UBDS combines a circular saw, planer, wood lathe and a set of cutters. True, you can’t just grind the table legs on it, the tailstock caliper overhang is too small. But the caliper itself is just a steel round pipe, it is not difficult to lengthen it. The stop of the cutter remains regular, it is mobile, the leg and with a long caliper are sharpened in one setting.

How to choose a tree?

A wooden table can be made from any wood of medium resistance to decay, except for the softest species: poplar, aspen, alder, willow, ailanthus. Of the domestic ones, these include:

The rocks are listed in order of availability. For example, horse chestnut, sycamore and juniper are not harvested at all: the former are too valuable for landscaping in the southern regions, while juniper is endangered and protected. Industrial blanks of elm are almost completely used for shoe lasts, weaving shuttles, etc., and mountain ash - for weapons stocks; There is no full-fledged plastic replacement for them yet. Stone birch grows very slowly, in limited places, does not renew well, so its harvesting is strictly regulated, and the wood is expensive.

Note: walnut is especially valuable for furniture - its wood combines high hardness with excellent viscosity, the most openwork walnut carving does not prick. And walnut wood from burls - large growths on the trunk - is not inferior in texture to Karelian birch.

At the beginning of a carpentry career, it is better to limit yourself to pine, birch, oak, acacia and boxwood. Pine or oak will go to the countertop; birch - on the legs of a pine table; in the countertop, it is strongly warped from the spilled. Acacia and boxwood make excellent dowels, see below.

On a pine countertop made of boards, you can and even need to take low-grade cheap boards - knotty, serpentine. But, of course, without falling knots, cracks, wormholes and traces of rot in the form of spots of unnatural color: black, gray, blue, green, in general, not similar to this tree. For example, rot marks on black (ebony) wood may be whitish or yellowish.

Why is the countertop substandard? Perhaps also unedged, which needs to be finished on a circular and jointer? And after skillful processing of them, plates of remarkable beauty are obtained, on the left in fig. Manufacturers do not like such a tree: the production cycle is delayed, waste increases. But for yourself with your own hands, this is not so scary compared to the result.

wooden humpback

Commercial pine has a clearly defined zoning of wood in the form of annual growth rings; other conifers and many hardwoods also have it. On the saw cut of the board, the rings form the so-called. humpback in the form of thin concentric arcs. If the top of the tree is directed across the face of the board, as in fig. in the center, then when rallying the shield for the tabletop (see below), the boards are oriented with humps alternately up and down, from below in fig. If the ridges are directed towards the end of the board (on the right in the figure), then the boards are placed in the shield with ridges in one direction. These subtleties are necessary so that during operation the countertop does not split or warp.

Varnishes, paints, impregnation, glue

A free means of protecting wood from decay is used motor oil, but for what they eat from, this is not the best option. Optimal will be 2-fold, with a break of 3-5 days, impregnation with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE), it will give protection to the table for the entire time of its life. Even birch plywood impregnated with WPE is suitable for furniture front panels: it is also varnished on top and does not delaminate.

Old furniture nitrocellulose varnishes NTs-218 and NTs-2144 with solvent No. 647 are gradually falling into disuse: they are superior to water-based acrylic varnishes in all respects; in addition, they are safe to use. Also, glues, bone carpentry and BF-2 on alcohol are inferior to PVA; however, to obtain a high-quality seam, the latter requires applying glue to both surfaces, keeping them tack-free before joining, and holding them under pressure for 1-3 days, but this is acceptable for home production.

Wood for furniture can be pre-tinted and protected with a stain, which allows you to make beautiful typesetting parts; an example will be given below. To tint the assembled units, you can use paints based on the same lacquer and artistic (not paint!) dyes: oil in tubes for NC lacquers and acrylic water-based for the same lacquer.

First, they prepare a “painting”: they take 30-50 ml of varnish and squeeze 1-1.5 cm of paint into it with continuous thorough stirring with a paintbrush. The coloring is stored in a tightly closed vial and added to the varnish to the desired tone; a test for it is done on a piece of wood, the tone is determined by the complete drying of the varnish. Colored varnishes on NC and oil paints can be mixed according to the rules for mixing oil paints for painting; acrylic - no restrictions.

First steps

The country table is the first of the homemade ones. If 1-2 brick pallets remain from the construction site, then the pallet table will be the first of the first. Not only because it is extremely simple, but also because it is very useful on the farm.

From one pallet, sanded, impregnated and varnished, you get a garden table like a coffee table, on the left in fig. If there is a pair available, in just half an hour you can make a wall-mounted desktop-rack, in the center and on the right. Chains for it can also be woven yourself from soft wire, covered with a PVC tube or, better, heat-shrinkable. To fully raise the tabletop, a small tool is placed on a shelf of a wall pallet.

With a little more work, a collapsible cutting table for a summer residence is made from one pallet, which allows you to transfer the summer-autumn harvesting campaign to the street without littering with husks and without trampling on the stumps. For the winter this table is collected in a compact package. The construction is clear from Fig; a bucket is placed under the hatch in the tabletop.

The next in order of complexity is the well-known country table-goats, colloquially a goat. Its construction of 40 mm boards is shown on the left in the figure, and in addition to it is a bench of the same device. And on the right - a country folding table on the same principle. It has swivel joints (M8-M12 bolts, washers and nuts with locknuts); in the place marked in green, a stop boss is placed on the nails between the crossbars of the tabletop. When folded, this table fits in the trunk of a car, so it will also go to a picnic. If this is not expected, or the trunk is larger, the countertop can be made longer.

Finally, it also does not require special tools and skills for a gazebo table, see fig. below. Material - the same magpie board and some inexpensive fasteners.

One step closer to art...

To advance in table building, now you need to learn some of the basics of carpentry. A table, in general, consists of a tabletop, its support frame, possibly with niches and / or mechanisms, or simply a plate - underframe - legs, and knots holding everything together. Let's go through them starting with the connections along with the legs, because. their fastening is the weakest point of the table.

Connections and legs

At first, we need to master the connection on dowels - round wooden bosses, see fig. Dowel joints are assembled on a quick-drying glue that does not require exposure: carpentry, BF-2, acrylic. Sometimes, instead of dowels, nails with bitten off hats are used to connect thin boards, pos. 4, but this is bad: the wood dries out, but the metal does not, and over time the connection becomes loose.

For dowels, a thin-layered tree is taken stronger than both connected parts, i.e. the hardest rocks. A pine table with birch legs can be joined on oak or beech dowels. On sale there are ready-made round sticks for cutting dowels; before use, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels. Plastic dowels are also sold, but they are intended exclusively for detachable connections, for example. inserts in sliding tables.

Legs for industrial tables are attached with detachable drawers, see fig. on right. Pos., marked in yellow - the simplest, cheapest and worst. With its shortcomings in the complete absence of advantages, buyers of Shiroptrebov's Soviet furniture are well aware, even if it remains there. Reliable, well-kept, except for the legs, and underframe boards, drawers with mortise jibs, “green” pos. They also require the least cost, but are quite laborious, so they are rarely used in industry, but just right for an amateur. Drawer side with shaped steel jib, top right in the figure, even stronger; in this way it is possible to fasten legs with a round head and in general any, however, purchased shaped parts made of high-quality steel are required.

Note: legs are attached to the round table, as shown below in fig.

Detachable legs are needed not only for ease of storage and transportation. In a small apartment with a narrow corridor, a table with legs is often simply impossible to push to the living room, no matter how you turn it. Modern apartments are more spacious, and in 1-story private houses the table can be served / given out the window, so in such cases, the strength and durability of the table with tightly fixed legs comes to the fore.

For tables on a rectangular base, the heads of the legs for blind fastening must also be rectangular, pos. 1 in fig. By the way, the tsargs are also one-piece: then the legs with dowels that pass through a mortise wooden jib. From the inside, the dowels are cut flush and wedged with dogwood or boxwood wedges inserted across the fibers of the jib wood. Assembled with glue, such a connection is so strong and durable that these 200-year-old tables can be fought by grabbing the leg.

Sufficiently high-quality tables on turned legs are assembled simply on dowels, pos. 2. For simpler tables, the legs are made of timber and fastened with self-tapping screws after attaching the tabletop to the tabletop, pos. 3. Even simpler and lighter are the legs of a pair of boards each, pos. 4 and 5. So that they do not cling to the floor, you need to stuff the thrust bearings on them below or put the table on wheels.

table top

The easiest, but not the cheapest way, is to order a countertop made of laminated chipboard (chipboard, laminate). Chipboard for countertops is available in the form of the so-called. postforming - slabs 3.6x1.2 m 20-60 mm thick with a decorative coating. The upper edge of the postforming plate is rounded, the bottom face with a drip collector, see fig. Modern furniture laminate is quite environmentally friendly, no matter what gossip does not want to forget the co-furniture, which stank of phenol for months.

Postforming is well bought by small furniture enterprises. They always have his scraps; of them, they will gladly and for a very affordable price cut the tabletop to size, if the company has a jig saw. Perhaps such an order will be accepted by a single individual entrepreneur if he is sitting idle. The finished slab will be closed, i.e. cover the PVC end with a piping (edge). If you will be edging yourself (sometimes they ask for an awkward surcharge for edging), then keep in mind:

• The upper and lower flanges of the edging have a different profile, see on the left in fig. Confuse - there will always be a piping of dirt on the table.
• Kant must be taken exactly according to the thickness of the plate. It is possible to put on a 24 mm edging on a 25 mm plate, but it will soon slide off.
• The groove for the crest of the edge must be selected with a manual disk cutter; saw, it seems that no one has yet succeeded as it should.
• Before installing the edge, a thin layer of silicone sealant is applied to the end surface and the "sausage" is squeezed into the groove; in this case, the silicone will also be a lubricant, without which the ridge of the edge can simply be crushed.
• The comb is inserted into the groove with light blows of the mallet, gradually moving along the contour. The tabletop must lie face up on the support; squeezed out excess silicone is immediately washed with a clean rag slightly moistened with table vinegar.

Plank tabletops are rallied in plank clips with wedges and spacers - wimahs. Wimes are quite possible to make yourself; You need 3-4 for a tabletop. Wym boards (cheeks) are wrapped in polyethylene so that the shield does not stick to them. On fig. for example - the process of manufacturing a round tabletop; rectangular rally in the same way, only cropping to size is easier. The shield is rallied onto the countertop with glue and dowels (see below); if the boards are grooved, dowels are not needed. When rallying to PVA, the next plot is kept until the applied glue is tacky before installation in the wyma.

Often, countertops are assembled without a wym on a plaza - a flat surface covered with plastic wrap. It will not work to assemble a good plank shield on the plaza: either it will come out slitted, or the boards will stand on end when assembled. But inlaid countertops from fragments are simply wonderful in skillful hands. For example, at pos. 1-3 fig. - a tabletop made of sawing waste, tinted with wood stain. And on pos. 4-5, the base of the tabletop was the plaz itself made of thick plywood. The tile and its break are glued with tile adhesive, then the depressions are filled with grout for drinking, the surface is lacquered and the contour is edged with a wooden lath.

Note: these examples do not illustrate all the possibilities of making do-it-yourself inlaid art tabletops.

Underframe

The underframe of the table with non-removable legs is a simple wooden frame, on the left in fig. Niches and details of mechanisms are not involved in the power circuit. If the table is longer than 1.2 m, or the tabletop is removable/sliding, or heavy operational loads are expected (for example, a work table), the underframe is reinforced with stiffeners in the center. If the legs are fastened with drawers, then the underframe is made integral with the table top, so that a single power circuit is obtained, on the right in fig.

no frame

Tables without underframes are also known, in which the tabletop with legs work in a single carrier system. Very durable, eg. plywood table on the left in pic; its connections are shkantovye. Unfortunately, this is not an economical design for an amateur: the sidewalls cannot be assembled from pieces, they must be solid. In mass production, the waste is not very large, but a sheet of plywood with a thickness of 24 mm or more will go one piece for large sidewalls, and 1 more for smaller ones. The table on the right is already quite possible to make with your own hands: the supporting frame is prefabricated; connections - in a spike with a tightening bolt and half a tree. However, the countertop in this case should be round or square, with rounded or right angles.

... and get into the kitchen

Exactly. The table for the kitchen is the next in order of complexity after the simplest country ones. It must already meet the requirements of apartment ergonomics, dimensions - 75 cm in height for people of average completeness; the width of the seat for 1 eater / rider is 60-80 cm, depending on its corpulence, the width of the tabletop is at least 70 cm. The countertop should be easy to clean, durable, resistant to spilled heat from hot dishes.

All these requirements will be satisfied by a table made of chipboard on metal legs; they are also sold separately in sets of 4 pieces, with fasteners, on the left in fig. Factory legs for tables, as a rule, are supplied with height-adjustable heels. The table, the manufacture of which will be reduced to screwing the nests of the legs with confirmatory screws, will cost 30-50% cheaper than the whole purchased one, but in appearance it will not yield, on the right in Fig.

If you are not too lazy to put your hands on it, steel legs can be made with your own hands. This is not only a cheaper, but also a more durable option: the sockets of branded legs are cast from a rather fragile silumin, the fasteners weaken over time, they need to be tightened. You yourself can cut out nests from good steel, and weld your own legs into them.

The kitchen is more spacious, perhaps there is room for a larger table. In such a case - on the trail. rice. drawings of a kitchen table in a rustic style. "Rustic" this table is not only in appearance: it does not have a single nail and metal fasteners in general. Just wood and glue. A connoisseur, seeing such, nods his head in understanding and approval, and the design is simple and accessible to a beginner. True, in addition to the tabletop, you will have to rally the shields on the sidewalls, but in this case, the extra work is worth it.

Kruglyashi

A table with a round top is appropriate in any room, if it fits there. But a tabletop made of boards in this case is not the best option: due to the presence of sharp corners, it is subject to splitting without a frame, which is very complex and time-consuming. Type-setting countertops from small fragments, like the one described above from waste, are free from this drawback; unlike laminate rounds, they are decorative, stylish, unique, and practically free.

There are even more sharp corners in a small-type table top, but here the “broom law” works. Not the American senator Venik, who loves democracy in Russia to the point of complete oblivion of it at home, but the broom with which they sweep the rubbish. As you know, it is impossible to break him (a broom, not a senator) tied up, and a child will break twig after twig. So here, due to the ease of distributing loads between small fragments, the countertop made of them works like a solid plate, and you can cut it off after assembly even with the letter zyu.

Note: the idea of ​​the senator-broom, sorry, Venik, was suggested by the statement of his compatriot Samuel Clemens, world-famous as Mark Twain: “I affirm, and undertake to prove it, that Mr. Cooper has no more fantasies than a bull. But not the bull that lows in the pasture, but the one that is the support of the bridge.

How to make a semi-folding round table is shown in fig; on the right there are the dimensions of the countertop and the assembly order. And in fig. on the right above - a small round table for the hallway, according to the old classification - a business card. Its feature is the minimum number of connections; glue assembly. Any kruglyash will go to the countertop, from sawing off a stump to a cardboard one, made according to the method of manufacturing cardboard shelves, but the underframe must be durable, made of wood (dvuhsotka board) or chipboard.

Moving on to the living room

The table in the main room of the house should be in line with the whole house. At the same time, with the modern desire for laconic design (which also saves living space costs), the table should not be conspicuous for the time being, and take up less space. Therefore, one of the most sought-after pieces of furniture of our days has become a transforming table.

The simplest transformable table, which, with all its transformations, remains a table, and does not turn into a closet or bed - a bedside table; it is quite possible to make it with your own hands "from scratch". There are 2 most common options here. On the left in fig. - the table is deployable, it has a record ratio of occupied areas in expanded and collapsed form. These are most often placed in studio apartments perpendicular to the wall on the border of the kitchen and living areas. With the tabletop wings lowered, it will serve as a bar. By raising the wings one by one, you can get a kitchen or everyday dining table, and fully extended (in the center), it will provide a place for a rather crowded banquet.

A bachelor living in a small apartment is more suitable for a folding bedside table, on the right in fig. These are, in essence, 2 small round folding tables, described above, connected by a rectangular insert. You can have lunch alone from it folded, because, unlike the previous version, there is where to put your legs. And having unrolled, spend a romantic evening with a beautiful stranger or sincere gatherings with friends.

All of the above qualities combine coffee-dining tables-transformers with a mechanism. The variety of transformation mechanisms is great, but for tables that are always tables, they basically come down to 2 types: an elevator (pantograph) and a book. How one and the other work, see the video:

Theoretically, a book is more stable than an elevator, although much depends on the quality of execution. It is more popular among book lovers, because the mechanism-book can still be made independently, and the elevator outside the production environment is unlikely.

How the table-book is laid out is shown in stages in fig. on right. For its independent production, you need to know that the key unit is the damping-balancing elastic link. In fairly expensive branded designs, very soft gas dampers (gas lifts) are used, but it is better for an amateur to stop at a spring damper, and not because a gas lift is much more expensive.

The fact is that the gas lift must be coordinated within fairly narrow limits with the kinematics of the lever system, the weight of the table top, underframe and the own weight of the levers. If the balance of the entire system does not fit into its characteristics, the mechanism simply will not work. And the spring can always be tightened / loosened; replace as a last resort. In general, an unsuccessful home-made transforming table with gas lifts rarely manages to be “brought to mind”, and spring almost always. If you still decide to suffer with a homemade acrobat table, in fig. - drawings of the spring transformation mechanism.

Without the availability of or access to drilling, turning and milling machines for metal, most parts of the transformation mechanism will have to be ordered. Then its production will cost a little about $40, and you can buy a good ready-made one for $50-$60. A factory-made transforming coffee table rarely costs less than $200, so even in this situation, the savings are significant.

The transformer table is made under the mechanism. One of the most popular are the Mazetti transformation mechanisms, due to their good quality at a moderate price for this class of products. In addition, Mazetti movements are available in a supporting frame (inset in the center in the figure), which greatly simplifies installation. The rest of the pos. in fig. show the device and the dimensions of the table for this mechanism.

For a strong feast

Whatever you say, but in a normal family with children, friends and relatives, crowded gatherings at the table cannot do without, and here the transforming table will not always help out. However, we will leave more or less full banquet tables for the living room, as they say, for later: these are products of a higher order of complexity; primarily because of the extension mechanism.

By the way, the good old “sliders” with wooden guides and wooden sliders of the halves of the table top (item 1 in the figure) are quite convenient and reliable if properly executed, in addition to this, they can be made by yourself, but such a process requires a special detailed description. Modern sliding mechanisms with telescopic full extension guides, pos. 2, allow you to use not 1, but up to 3-5 inserts, which increases the capacity of the table by 6-10 people, respectively, but they are quite expensive, and their installation requires a description of no less voluminous.

There are banquet tables with clamshell inserts, pos. 3. In elite models, when sliding / sliding the halves of the table top, the insert lifts, unfolds and puts in place or puts back in the underframe a very complex mechanism, but its manual versions are available for home production.

As for banquet tables with retractable individual tables, arranged like a keyboard stand in a computer desk, they cannot be called popular by any means: leaning forward (and how to avoid this if the house is without servants?), We get the board back into the underframe, and our portion of treats - for festive clothes.

But let's not talk about sad things. Recall that the table is not always pushed apart, and you can use the side table, but the whole table is in any case more reliable. Therefore, in the series of drawings below - a way to make a very durable and inexpensive dining table, and how it looks "live" - ​​see the left in fig. at the beginning.

In addition

A table, and indeed any furniture, often wants to be painted not just with stripes or artistically painted. To protect the drawing from external influences and to ensure the possibility of updating the varnish if necessary, the paints should not be applied, but rubbed into the wood before varnishing. The technique of painting by layer-by-layer rubbing of paints is called glazing. So in conclusion, we offer a master class on wood glazing.

Video: wood glazing master class

Even if furniture production is far from your area, making a country table with your own hands to gather with family and friends on warm summer evenings is quite a feasible task.

Its main advantage, in contrast to the purchased one, is undoubted savings. It is not necessary to make a table from scratch: simply by assembling purchased parts, you will save 30-50% of the cost. If it is possible to use materials left over from construction or repair, the costs will be limited to the purchase of fittings.

To choose a design, you need to decide where the product will be used.

Using cheap non-standard boards for a country or kitchen table - substandard - you will get advantages that are not available for mass production. Sounds doubtful? But this is true: knots, due to which the boards are rejected, have interesting decorative properties. If you succeed in emphasizing them successfully, you will become the author of a completely unique design product, which is a pity to leave in the garden in the rain.

Making a country table with your own hands to gather with family and friends on warm summer evenings is quite a feasible task.

To choose a design, you need to decide where the product will be used: on a grassy lawn under a tree, to complement an arbor, to stand in a workshop or in a house.

The simplest country table can be assembled in a few hours with a minimum of materials, but it will not last long either. To get a product that will be really pleasant to use, you need to carefully prepare the boards and perform all technical operations at each stage with high quality.

Its main advantage, in contrast to the purchased one, is undoubted savings.

If you find a large stump in the woods, it can make an easy-to-make garden table. It is only required to remove the bark from the stump, make an even cut along the top, sand it, treat it with an antiseptic and varnish it. It is enough to nail or screw a finished furniture board to the "leg" from the stump - and you're done.

Worktops made of boards fastened at the bottom with transverse slats look good. If you prefer a glued worktop, you can do it yourself, but this will require a lot of effort.

If you succeed in emphasizing them successfully, you will become the author of a completely unique design product, which is a pity to leave in the garden in the rain.

It is difficult for a novice master to fix the legs securely, so try to choose a design by correctly evaluating your skills and taking into account the cost of labor and time. The easiest way to make cruciform and L-shaped legs. To attach straight legs - you need to carefully connect the parts.

One of the coziest options for a garden is a collapsible table with benches that can be installed in a gazebo or on a veranda. It is not difficult to perform it, the main thing is to choose high-quality materials and properly prepare them for work.

The simplest country table can be assembled in a few hours with a minimum of materials, but it will not last long either.

How to choose a tree?

For a garden or kitchen table, wood of many species is suitable, both soft (pine, spruce, cedar, fir) and hard (oak, birch, ash, walnut, maple, apple, pear, acacia, etc.). The exception is too soft woods wood (poplar, alder, aspen, willow).

One of the main parameters of the suitability of wood for making furniture is resistance to decay: the species listed above meet this requirement.

If you do not plan to engage in furniture work all the time or are just starting to practice, give preference to the most common types of wood - pine and birch.

Worktops made of boards fastened at the bottom with transverse slats look good.

It is possible to use wood of different species for the table top, frame and legs. At the assembly stage, you will need dowels: they are usually made from acacia or boxwood. Birch wood has an inexpressive pattern and can be significantly warped due to spilled liquid - it is better not to use it as a countertop material, but due to the hardness of this breed, legs can be made from it.

The countertop is best made of oak or pine. If you know how to brush wood, the surface of the kitchen table can become a real work of art. Brushing lends itself to soft wood: the wood is burned with a gas burner, and the soft fibers are removed with an iron brush. Work is best done in the yard due to the large amount of dust. If you managed to burn the wood evenly, the result will please you. The brush can be tinted with stains, stains, artistic acrylic paint diluted with water. Of course, wood brushing is not required: it is only a finishing option.

If you prefer a glued worktop, you can do it yourself, but this will require a lot of effort.

The choice of paints and varnishes and glue

Before proceeding with the installation, the boards must be protected from decay. The tree must be impregnated with a water-polymer emulsion (WPE): the treatment is carried out twice with an interval of 3-5 days. This is enough for the product to last a long time.

Some models require glue. Along with special carpentry adhesives (BF-2, etc.), building PVA can be used: it is applied to both surfaces to be glued, dried to a “tack”, then the parts are connected and kept under pressure for up to three days.

It is difficult for a novice master to fix the legs securely, so try to choose a design by correctly evaluating your skills and taking into account the cost of labor and time.

The choice of paint and varnish materials is determined by where the product is planned to be used: in the yard or indoors. For a garden table that is inevitably exposed to precipitation, alkyd, alkyd-urethane, nitrocellulose varnishes and oil paints are suitable. For the kitchen table, as well as for any furniture that is constantly in the room, it is better to use acrylic paints and varnishes: they are more environmentally friendly and do not have a strong smell. Lacquers marked with the "blue angel" mark are recommended for children's furniture and toys.

If you decide to cover the wood with stain, paint or just tinted varnish, this must be done before assembly. Material compatibility must be considered. The lacquer is tinted with a paint of a suitable composition: if the lacquer is alkyd, the paint should be oily, if you use acrylic lacquer, it can only be tinted with acrylic paint. First, a small amount of varnish is thoroughly mixed in a separate container with paint, and then the resulting mixture is added to a larger volume of varnish.

One of the coziest options for a garden is a collapsible table with benches that can be installed in a gazebo or on a veranda.

What tools are needed

For work you will need:

• hacksaw,
• circular saw or jigsaw;
• drill;
• screwdriver;
• hammer (if you decide to use nails).

For a garden or kitchen table, wood of many species is suitable.

This list includes only the most necessary tools, but in order to make the work more comfortable and the finished product look aesthetically pleasing, it is advisable to buy or rent a rotary miter box, an eccentric grinder and a milling machine.

The rotary miter box makes it possible to make cuts exactly at the right angle. An eccentric sander allows you to prepare parts simply, quickly and with high quality: you will sand the boards in an hour, instead of doing it all day manually with sandpaper. For high-quality processing of the ends, a belt grinder is useful, and a milling machine allows you to select a tree for the necessary grooves and process the edges.

If you do not plan to engage in furniture work all the time or are just starting to practice.

Homemade pallet table

A spectacular rustic table can be constructed from pallets (wooden pallets). If you are a happy owner of such a container, especially a double-deck pallet, just disassemble it: there is no problem in purchasing boards!

Think it's always better to buy new boards? You probably have not worked with wood before: raw wood cannot be used (the product deforms after a few months), and dry boards are much more expensive. To dry raw wood boards, they are stacked in a well-ventilated area: this necessary process will delay your project by 4-6 months! A good option for the kitchen table can be the already mentioned rejected boards, also dry.

It is possible to use wood of different species for the table top, frame and legs.

Let's go back to the pallets: they are dismantled. Now at your disposal are strong boards with different patterns and colors, it is possible that from trees of different species. These features should not be considered as disadvantages: they will give the product a zest: you just need to create an interesting composition from them, alternating boards of a similar shade.

The sides of the pallet will make an excellent frame, and the remaining planks will be used to assemble the countertop.

Work is best done in the yard due to the large amount of dust.

To make the legs, you will need a bar with a thickness of at least 5 cm. All the details must be prepared: sanding strictly along the fibers with sandpaper, first coarse (No120-150), then finer grit (No400-600), carefully removing dust.

Some boards can be painted with acrylic or oil paint. Loft style fans can use stencils in the form of numbers or simple graphic symbols. Boards with a beautiful natural pattern “morim” or simply varnished. After staining or the first layer of acrylic lacquer, the soft fibers rise; they need to be sanded with medium grit sandpaper and a new coat of varnish applied.

A spectacular rustic table can be constructed from pallets (wooden pallets).

If a non-aqueous varnish is used, it is enough to apply 2-3 layers, and if acrylic, the number of layers can reach up to ten.

A good option for the kitchen table can be rejected boards, also dry.

We fasten the tabletop boards with planks, which we place at the joints of the boards. Using a drill, a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, we fasten the boards to the planks (at the joints we use two self-tapping screws, on solid boards - one). The use of a drill is necessary so that when screwing in the screws, the wood does not crack. We assemble the frame from the prepared sidewalls of the pallets. Using a drill bit suitable for self-tapping screws, we drill holes at the joints. We coat the joints with glue and fix with self-tapping screws. We install the legs: simply fasten the boards to the frame, screwing in the screws diagonally. To strengthen the structure, we make jumpers at the bottom in a similar way.

To make the legs, you need a bar with a thickness of at least 5 cm.

Wooden table with glued top

For a glued worktop, you need to choose boards of the same width. If the table is intended for a workshop and its appearance is not of great importance, you can use old floorboards: there are already grooves there. To make the grooves yourself, you need a milling machine.

To assemble the countertop, a flat surface is required. We simply coat the sidewalls with glue, join the boards without gaps and tighten the resulting structure with clamps. Depending on the glue used, the countertop should dry from 1 to 3 days. If everything is done correctly, you will get a countertop with a completely flat surface without cracks. It remains to work out the ends - first trim with a jigsaw, and then sand. In the absence of a belt grinder, this must be done manually - with sandpaper, first large, then medium grit.

After varnishing the parts, you can proceed to the installation, which consists of several stages.

If you don’t want to mess around with glue and clamps, you can use a ready-made furniture board from a hardware store. Then the countertop remains covered with a transparent or tinted varnish.

For a good result, you need to apply 5-7 (for acrylic varnish up to 10) layers. After each third layer, the working surface of the countertop must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper, carefully removing dust with a damp cloth. At the varnishing stage, it is important not to rush: each layer of varnish should dry well.

It remains to make the legs of a garden or kitchen table: let's focus on the option with L-shaped legs. You will need boards with a thickness of at least 22-25 mm.

For a glued worktop, you need to choose boards of the same width.

L-shaped legs consist of two parts connected at an angle of 90. On the boards to be joined, it is necessary to make a selection, coat the joint with wood glue, and then install self-tapping screws.

When the glue dries, cover the legs with varnish and after drying, simply fasten them to the countertop with screws.

The connection of the legs with the tabletop has several options.

Table with straight legs

To make straight legs, it is enough to file a thick beam into pieces of the same length. The connection of such legs with the tabletop has several options.

In order for the straight legs to be installed securely, at home, you can use the connection on the dowels. You can make them yourself from acacia wood or buy ready-made ones. To assemble dowel joints, you need quick-drying wood glue (BF-2).

To make straight legs, it is enough to file a thick beam into pieces of the same length.

Table with X-shaped legs

Sequence of work.

1. On the inside of the tabletop, we fasten two strips on each side with self-tapping screws.
2. To make the table look good, the edges of the planks must first be cut at an angle of 52.
3. We fasten the paired planks so that the legs fit, we make laps of 2-3 mm on each side.
4. We lay the boards on a flat surface, crossing them at the right angle. We measure the distance between the ends of the boards: it should correspond to the width of the table.
5. We circle the intersection with chalk: here it is necessary to choose half the thickness of the boards so that after assembly they lie in the same plane.
6. We coat the recesses with glue and place the parts under the press for 1-3 days. For greater reliability, the connection can be strengthened with self-tapping screws.
7. We varnish the legs.
8. It remains to attach them to the table top, placing them in the grooves formed by the slats - and the table for giving with your own hands is ready.

X-shaped legs are made of bars or boards with a thickness of at least 50 mm.

Table with benches

The best solution for a gazebo is a dining table with benches attached to it. It is better to make such a design collapsible in order to clean it indoors for the winter.

The table will require thick boards (from 32 mm), which must be cut into pieces according to the drawing. In this version, two benches are attached to the table. When all the parts are cut, they must be sanded, paying special attention to the ends. We varnish each board separately.

The best solution for a gazebo is a dining table with benches attached to it.

To connect the parts of the structure, we will prepare the studs (length 160 mm), nuts and washers - 24 pcs each. For other connections, use self-tapping screws or nails of a suitable length. Using a drill, it is necessary to prepare all the holes for the fasteners.

According to the drawing, we assemble the countertop and the upper parts of the benches. We cut the cross rails along the edges, the angle should be 45. This is convenient to do with the help of a rotary miter box.

We make and fasten all the legs to the screws. We fasten the parts cut at an angle.

We varnish each board separately.

We tighten the product with studs with bolts. The holes for the studs must be pre-drilled with a drill. When installing the stud, you need to put washers on both sides and tighten the nuts using a wrench.

We tighten the product with studs with bolts.

Seat boards are fixed with gaps of 5 mm. When the seats are connected to the sawn supports, we attach them to the assembled base with 160 cm boards: you will need 4 boards.

We install the remaining studs and enjoy the result.

Using a drill, it is necessary to prepare all the holes for the fasteners.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself wooden table in the gazebo

50 photo ideas: how to make this table with your own hands

A great way to complement the interior of a house or cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We talk about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. Such a piece of furniture will become a real decoration of the living room, kitchen or office. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered boards and beams or from leftover materials. To do this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. But the experience of making homemade furniture may be missing. We offer you a very simple project to assemble a strong and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture according to this scheme.

Everything starts with an idea

How to make a table? You need to start work with the selection of a finished furniture project for the living room or with drawing up your own scheme for the future product. You can not limit your imagination, but you should remember that the drawings in terms of complexity must correspond to your level of skill. In the absence of sufficient experience, it is better not to try to assemble a very complex structure yourself.

The project of a table for the house can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First you need to draw a design of the desired shape, and only then indicate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for the living room is made square or round, but for a kitchen or study (and any small room), a compact corner or adjustable table is suitable.

The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any, when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be bought. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small margin (just in case).

If you are a beginner who is assembling furniture at home for the first time, then it is better for you to give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).

Such materials are very malleable and do not split during assembly. If you are making furniture for the living room and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If the homemade table will be used outside the home, it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.

A wrought-iron table with a wooden top will also differ in durability. A piece of wood, decorated with forged elements, will add charm to your yard.

To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:

• edged or tongue-and-groove boards, bars with a square section (for legs) and with a rectangular section (for the frame);

• white or yellow wood glue;
• screws (preferably 4x60 self-tapping screws);
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• clamp set;
• sandpaper or grinder.

Making the tabletop right

We begin the work with a description of the process of manufacturing countertops. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of one method or another? First of all, from the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:

1. Board production. This material is characterized by relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice master, then you can make a table with your own hands from grooved boards (that is, blanks with ridges and grooves.

An experienced craftsman can assemble living room furniture from edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a soil carrier of small length. These will be used to connect the boards to each other.

1. Made from a single piece of wood. In this case, you generally don’t have to puzzle over how to make a table with your own hands with a fairly strong and beautiful table top. The best option is to purchase hardwood plywood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
2. Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is a very cheap way to make furniture for the home, but quite difficult to perform. It will be necessary to select fragments of wood that will be in harmony with each other and will not create problems during installation and further use of the product. Putting the leftovers together is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large amount of glue or create an underframe (stiffening ribs).

In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connected with screws and glue. Since all the boards are different sizes, the finished product will need to cut off the protruding elements and carry out a thorough grinding. The result is an original and comfortable table.

The second method involves fastening the remnants of materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws), followed by strengthening the structure by installing an underframe or stiffeners. Such a table with your own hands will be distinguished by stability and durability.

If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special color and originality to the product.

When the countertop is ready, it can be left overnight so that it dries properly. The manufacturing technology of this part of the table is approximately the same, regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between the projects in this case lie in the shape that must be given to the edges of the boards or a solid sheet of wood.

If you are making an original corner table, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.

However, if as a result, bumps nevertheless formed, then the edges of the table will need to be properly sanded. You can also first fasten the boards, and then draw a triangle on the workpiece and cut out the finished product.

If you are making a round table in the living room or a product with rounded edges, then it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product, and then draw lines for future cuts on the workpiece with a pencil or chalk.

The finished tabletop for such a project will look like this:

The frame as the basis for a reliable table

The next step is to make a table frame for the living room. The frame is a wooden square (for a square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is fastened to the table top and secures the legs.

Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult even for a beginner. To do this, turn the countertop upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters deep and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square from the marks.

After that, you need to cut four pieces of wood of such dimensions that correspond to the drawings on the table top. For the manufacture of the frame, it is recommended to take a rectangular beam. The frame of the boards may not be strong enough. Then the frame must be attached to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides a higher reliability of the structure, however, in this case, the heads of the self-tapping screws will be visible on the surface of the countertop.

We make strong and reliable legs

At the next stage of the implementation of an unusual project, you need to make table legs. First, you can cut off one leg of the desired height (it is recommended to use a square bar for the production of legs), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4 legs, but 3. After the cutting process is completed, you should clamp all the legs together and cut them so that they are the same length.

At the next stage of work, the legs must be sanded with a grinder or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as you can spoil the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.

The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame so that the top cut touches the countertop, and the two sides of the leg adjoin the frame. Then the contact lines of the parts must be liberally lubricated with glue and connected using fixing screws that are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that the screws do not split the tree during the screwing process.

It is best to avoid using nails and a hammer when making a standard or corner table, as nails can split wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.

Be sure to make sure that the legs are attached to the table at the right angle. One advantage of screws is that they are easily adjustable. If necessary, their position can be easily changed. Then the same operations should be carried out with the rest of the legs. It is also possible to screw the legs through the tabletop, however in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. Yes, and the aesthetics of the table for the living room will suffer from this.

When the glue is completely dry, it is necessary to check the product for stability by strongly loosening it. However, if you made a corner table, then you can skip this step. It will be in contact with two walls of the living room or study, and this will give it extra strength. Then it remains only to sand the surface of the finished product and cover it with wood varnish or special paint. This is the end of the job. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.

Such a piece of furniture as a kitchen (or as it is also called a dining) table is the main component of the kitchen interior. Its shape and size must correspond to the size of the room so that all family members can freely accommodate behind it. It is also important that the kitchen table does not interfere with free passage.

Sliding dining kitchen table-transformer

Currently, the stores offer a wide selection of kitchen furniture, of various shapes and sizes, made from a variety of materials. There are tables of both Russian and foreign production on the market.

The original round dining table with chairs in the interior of the kitchen

When choosing a table for a small kitchen, you have to make a choice - do you like it when there is a lot of free space, or is it important for you that the furniture is comfortable, roomy. If you can’t decide on a suitable table for the kitchen, try making it yourself. Those who have a certain skill can do it quite well.

Wooden round table with a design on four legs, made by hand

DIY folding table for a small kitchen

Many men who like to craft with their own hands can significantly save the family budget, because finished products are not cheap. Accordingly, you independently select the material for the manufacture of a high-quality dining table and the necessary fastening. Having shown design skills, you will assemble an original piece of furniture that is ideal for the kitchen interior.

Folding table in the kitchen, which does not take up extra space

Don't think this is a difficult task. It does not take much time to assemble a dining table - just a few days. A little more difficult to make a countertop. It is better to first consult with friends involved in such cases, or read information on the Internet.

A table with shelves and a reclining tabletop with your own hands

Assembling the table with your own hands, you will create a unique thing, bring to life a long-standing idea. Maybe with your light hand, organize the production of kitchen tables, and it will grow into a profitable business.

Deciding on design and construction

Round wooden table with handmade painting

Square wooden table for the dining area

The design and shape of the dining table can be very diverse. Designers, using fantasy, bring to life the most unusual ideas.

Extendable oval dining table with chrome legs

Consider the design of this piece of furniture.

Wooden kitchen furniture set: rectangular table, bench and corner

Glass Corner Dining Table

Owners of a small kitchen prefer to use a book table or a sliding table. Since in the assembled state they save a lot of space. Other forms of tables are few where you can see. If you prefer products of the original form, it is better to make them to order.

Large classic solid wood dining table

The kitchen table, like any other furniture, is selected for a certain style of interior. For example, an ordinary wooden table is suitable for classics. High-tech is characterized by right angles and lines, so they choose tables made of plastic, metal, glass, with an emphasis on white and gray shades. For the Art Nouveau style, unusual furniture with ornate lines is used. Eco-style means products made from natural materials.

Original high-tech folding dining table

Designer advice. Whatever table you choose, the main thing is that it matches the interior and complements the overall look.

Necessary materials

Dining table materials may vary. Here are the most used ones:

• chipboard;
• board glued, edged;
• beam.

You can combine them if you wish. You will also need: corners, hinges (for folding models), rollers, confirmations, corner fasteners, eccentric bolts, lining legs, tape for edging, plastic profile for countertops, plugs.

Required Tools

You can not do without a standard set of tools:

• jigsaw;
• drill;
• hacksaw;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• screwdrivers;
• electric planer;
• grinding machine;
• hexagons;
• building hair dryer (can be replaced with an iron);
• tape measure (ruler), pencil.

In the manufacture of complex models, you can not do without additional tools.

Manufacturing process: step by step instructions

We will make a tabletop from wooden boards

How to make a kitchen table with your own hands? Consider this on the example of an ordinary dining table. First of all, we prepare the tools and materials that will be needed for the job.

Scheme of the future dining table with dimensions

Then we mark up the furniture elements. We start with the tabletop, as this is the largest part of the table. It can be rectangular, round, square or oval in shape. If you are planning to make a table of an unusual shape, mark up according to the sketches.

We grind the boards with a planer, carefully process the edges so that the boards fit as tightly as possible to each other

We connect the boards with glue and dowels, remove excess glue on the surface and grind it

Then we apply a drawing of the side racks to the material - these will be the legs of the future table. Most often in shape they imitate a chess piece. If you want, you can make other shapes as you like. The main thing is that the design is stable.

We fasten the legs and make the base for the tabletop

Then we mark the upper and lower crossbars, which will connect the racks and thereby ensure the reliability of the structure. Remember that the bottom bar is always almost twice as wide as the top bar. Its form is varied. Usually the legs are located from the edge of the table surface at a distance of 15-20 cm.

At the next stage of work, we cut out the elements. We place the material on the table. Cut out the tabletop using a jigsaw. To avoid the appearance of chips, we put plywood under the bottom. Cut out the rest of the pieces in the same way. Do not allow material to sag. Because of this, the tool may break or break off the cut element. At the end of cutting the edges of the parts, we grind with a special machine or go through them with sandpaper.

We fasten the legs to the long crossbars and drill holes in them in order to install the countertop later.

Using a tape for finishing the edges and a plastic profile, we make trimming. First we put the profile on the edge of the surface. In the place of the angular bend, the profile must be heated with a hairdryer and then rotated. For high-quality fastening, use universal glue.

After the glue in the frame dries, you can proceed to install the countertop on the frame

Then we trim the legs and crossbars using tape to decorate the edge. Before this, we prepare the surface, cleaning it from dirt and grease. With a hot iron, press the tape to the edge and glue it. Cut off the excess with a sharp knife. The resulting irregularities are carefully removed with sandpaper. In the same way, we process the edges of the remaining elements.

If you want to make the table longer and wider, then you need to strengthen it with two additional cross bars

We assemble the table in the following order. Using confirmations, we connect the legs with the crossbars, positioning the top of them so as to prevent the countertop from deflecting. We fix the lower one at a height of 20-25 cm from the floor.

The finished assembled table remains only to be varnished or stained or painted, pre-primed

We lay the countertop on the finished base, fix it on the corners. We attach the legs-pads to the racks. We decorate furniture screws with plugs. Everything, the dinner table is ready!

Ready-made universal option - the table top and legs are stained

You can paint the legs white and stain the countertop to get an unusual design.

The table is an essential attribute of the kitchen interior. At the same time, it should not only combine style, beauty and comfort, but also be quite reliable. And what could be more reliable and durable than natural wood? The problem is that high-quality wooden furniture is not cheap, so not everyone can buy it for their kitchen. However, do not despair, because making a wooden table with your own hands is a completely feasible task for a person who is able to distinguish a screw from a nail and knows how to use a drill, a jigsaw and a grinding machine.

The choice of kitchen table design depends on several factors, such as the size of the kitchen, the number of occupants, and the interior design. If you look at the options that furniture manufacturers offer, then among the whole variety of designs, three categories can be distinguished:

• tables of medium size for 4-6 people;
• overall tables for a large family or receiving guests;
• practical folding tables for small kitchens.

A table in the kitchen should combine three qualities: aesthetics, convenience and practicality.

To make a kitchen table with your own hands, you need to have a product drawing on hand, the necessary set of tools and at least some woodworking skills. Below are design options for standard, large and small kitchens with photo instructions and a detailed description of each stage in the manufacture of a wooden table.

Rectangular baluster dining table

A rectangular design with a standard size of 1200x600mm is considered the most popular due to its practicality. This table can easily accommodate a family of 4 people. In addition, it can be installed both in the center of the kitchen (if space permits), or placed close to the wall in order to save free space.

schematic drawing

In order to make the wooden table more attractive, we will use balusters instead of straight legs. If there is no lathe at hand, then such legs can be ordered separately at the nearest furniture workshop.

Note! Balusters are figured pillars that are primarily found on the railings of stairs, balconies and roofs. However, the use of these elements in the manufacture of kitchen tables is also far from uncommon.

Drawing of a rectangular table on balusters

To assemble the product, you will need the following materials and tools:

• 4 finished baluster legs 720 mm high;
• furniture board 30 mm thick for countertops;
• board 20x100mm for the frame;
• wood screws about 30 mm long;
• drill (screwdriver);
• a circular saw;
• grinder;
• sandpaper of different grain sizes;
• building level;
• square;
• roulette;
• wood glue.

Step by step assembly instructions

A do-it-yourself kitchen table made of wood on balusters is made in the following sequence:

1. We prepare the cross members of the frame. To do this, we cut a 100 mm board into 4 parts (2 by 400 mm, 2 by 1000 mm), after which we remove the burrs and bring the surface to a smooth state with sandpaper or a grinder.

1. We take the balusters and connect them in pairs with short crossbars (400 mm), making a small indent from the edge of the leg (about 15 mm). Fastening is carried out by means of glue and screws, which are twisted at an angle from the inside of the board.

Tip! In order to prevent the appearance of cracks, it is better to pre-make holes for the screws.

Fastening the short crossbars to the legs

1. We connect the finished pairs of legs with long crossbars (1000 mm). The fastening algorithm is the same as in the previous step.

The final stage of mounting the table frame

1. After we have made the frame of a wooden table with our own hands, we move on to the countertop. If it comes to the kitchen, then it is better to purchase a ready-made furniture board. Although for a gazebo or cottage, where the requirements for the appearance of the tabletop are not so strict, it can be assembled from grooved boards.

Furniture board for countertop

1. The finished tabletop must be connected to the frame. To do this, lay it face down on a flat and clean surface, and evenly place the base with legs on top. The fastening of the crossbars to the tabletop is carried out with screws according to the same principle that was described in paragraph 2. However, in this case, you must be extremely careful not to drill through the countertop.

1. On this, the manufacture of a kitchen table with your own hands can be considered almost complete. The last stage is characterized by the process of grinding the surface, as well as the application of stain or varnish, the color of which is matched to the interior of the kitchen.

Note! The number of layers of varnish depends on the type of wood. Hardwoods, such as oak or hornbeam, do not absorb varnish well, so 1-2 coats are enough in this case. But for pine or spruce, you will need at least 3 layers of coating.

Wooden dining table with balusters

Wooden table for a large family

An oversized table at which you can dine with a large family or arrange a feast by inviting friends must have a reliable design. Regular four legs are usually not enough to hold a heavy tabletop. Therefore, it is necessary to take additional measures to strengthen the frame.

Product design

In this example, we will consider how to make a large wooden table for the kitchen with our own hands measuring 2337x978 mm (naturally, slight deviations in one direction or another are allowed).

Drawing of a large wooden table

Before starting work, lumber should be prepared for:

• supporting frame (38x90 mm);
• countertops (38x140 mm);
• support bars (19x64 mm).

You will also need the following tools:

• a circular saw;
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• screws (4x65 mm);
• drills (3 mm);
• furniture glue;
• pencil, tape measure, sandpaper.

Manufacturing steps

To make the table reliable and have an attractive appearance, you need to responsibly approach each stage. So let's get started:

1. We make parts for the future wooden table from the purchased lumber with our own hands:

• 2 upper transverse beams (38x90x978 mm);
• 4 legs (38x90x695 mm);
• 2 bowstrings (38x90x921 mm);
• 1 longitudinal lower beam (38x90x1575 mm);
• 1 longitudinal upper beam (38x90x1473 mm);
• 2 braces (38x90x772 mm);
• 7 blanks for countertops (38x90x2337);
• 6 support bars (19x64x432 mm).

We carefully grind all the details, achieving an absolutely smooth surface without burrs.

Important! The quality of polishing a wooden surface depends on the right grit of emery. For primary grinding, the grain size should not be larger than 200 µm.

1. We fasten the legs in pairs with each other using transverse beams (above) and a bowstring (below). We use two screws for each connection.

1. With the help of a longitudinal lower beam, we connect two bowstrings together.

Fastening of the lower transverse beam

1. We strengthen the structure with the help of the upper transverse beam.

Advice! In order for the beam to securely connect the two halves, in addition to screws, additional wooden dowels with a diameter of 10 mm should be used.

1. We cut the ends of the blanks for the braces at an angle of 45 degrees. After that, we attach both braces to the upper and lower transverse beams.

Fastening of the upper transverse beam

1. We connect the wooden boards intended for the countertop with the cross beams on the inside of the structure.

1. Additionally, we strengthen the countertop with the help of supporting strips. Make sure that they do not go beyond the dimensions of the table.

Strengthening the structure with support bars

1. If desired, semicircular corners can be made in the kitchen wooden table, which will give the product a more elegant look.

This option is suitable for a large kitchen or dining room, and for giving

Folding wooden table for a small kitchen

If there is not enough space in the kitchen to accommodate a large or medium-sized table, then you should look for a more original approach. One of these solutions is a folding table that is attached to the wall and is very easy to remove, freeing up the space occupied by itself.

Materials and tools

To make a folding wooden table for the kitchen with your own hands, you will need the following:

• furniture board 30 mm thick;
• wooden beam 20x60 mm;
• loops (6 pcs.);
• corner lamella (2 pcs.);
• wooden dowels;
• dowel;
• screws;
• drill;
• jigsaw;
• grinder or sandpaper;
• glue;

Assembly: step by step

Advice! Before starting work, decide on the place where the table will be installed. Since the design is attached to the wall, it is very important to take into account all the features of the future interior of the kitchen, so that later you do not have to rearrange, leaving unsightly holes from the dowels in a conspicuous place.

Do-it-yourself kitchen table assembly steps:

1. We prepare parts for folding legs. To do this, we cut the wooden beam into 8 parts: 4 with a length of 720 mm, 4 with a length of 320 mm. We sand each element, removing burrs.

1. Assemble two rectangular frames. The rails are interconnected by means of furniture dowels, under which it is first necessary to drill blind holes with a diameter of 8 mm.

1. We connect the finished frames with each other with loops. In addition, a narrow rail must be attached to one frame with the help of hinges, which will be attached to the wall.

1. We fix the frame to the wall with dowels, after which we install corner lamellas on the sides. It is important to arrange the slats in such a way that they do not interfere with the legs to fold.

Advice! Instead of corner slats, you can use any furniture corners of the appropriate size, matched to the color of the table.

Fastening the structure to the wall

1. From a wooden shield we cut out a tabletop measuring 900x600 mm. For a more effective look, the corners can be rounded. After that, all ends should be processed with a grinder.

1. We “separate” a piece 250 mm long from the tabletop, which will be attached to the wall structure. The two parts are connected to each other by means of loops.

1. We install the 250 mm part on the corner lamellas and connect the elements with screws.

The final stage of mounting a folding table in the kitchen with your own hands

1. You can ennoble the table at your discretion by applying stain, varnish or paint. But even in its original form, such a product looks very good.

Wooden folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen

On the Internet, you can find a lot of options for how to make a wooden table with your own hands. We looked at three of the simplest solutions for standard, large and small kitchens, the production of which is quite economical and does not require specialized machines and extensive experience in working with wood. For the manufacture of more complex structures, we recommend that you seek help from specialists.

Finally, watch the video, which shows how you can make a pretty decent kitchen table out of old wooden planks.

Video: do-it-yourself wooden table