Wood sanding at home. How to sand wood with sandpaper

Even if you purchase and install the necessary accessories on the angle grinder, this does not mean anything. Processing different materials requires certain knowledge. Without this, it will be difficult to achieve the desired quality.

Such a question can be perplexing, because this is the angle grinder - an angle grinder. But it is very versatile and must be prepared for each operation. To prepare the grinder for grinding, you need to purchase a support wheel, which is installed directly on the machine shaft.

For wood processing it is necessary to stick emery on this circle. The number of sandpaper is selected for the immediate moment of work. On sale you can find a grinding wheel of the desired diameter, and emery wheels of the appropriate size. Velcro emery wheels are also available for sale, which are very easy and quick to change on the tool.

To transform our grinder for grinding concrete, it would be a good decision to purchase a special protective dust cover. It is good in that it has a pipe for connecting a vacuum cleaner. Known casings are manufactured by Hilti. On the casing of this company there is a shiftable sector, which opens up part of the wheel for grinding in the corners.

Metal grinder grinding is usually performed with standard metal grinding wheels. They have different diameters, different thicknesses and different grains of the grinding surface. But, if you are going to sand an obscenely rusted surface, then first you need to go through it with a metal brush. Such brushes of the required diameters are also on sale.

https://youtu.be/vDs1gBM_MW4

How to grind with a grinder

Do not forget that grinding is always associated with a lot of dust. In preparation for grinding, do not forget about yourself! A protective mask and respirator are the best assistants when grinding. You can also find such an option where the mask is combined with a good respirator.

The respirator filter will clog very quickly, so you need to prepare several pieces at once for quick replacement. Only after thorough preparatory work, you can start grinding.

Sanding wood + (Video)

Wood is a unique material. It is polished by hand well, but with a grinder you can achieve very good results. Some snobs claim that it is impossible to grind with a grinder at all, but this is from ignorance and inability.

The main secret is that the grinder is used at minimum speed. If the grinder has a speed switch, then there will be no problems. At high speeds, the sandpaper will clog the wood very quickly and very tightly. In this mode, it is not enough for five minutes of work. The optimal speed is not more than 6000 rpm.

Another secret is not to grind the entire area of ​​the circle. If you sand the entire surface, then circular marks will remain on the wood. So that there are no traces of sandpaper at all or they would be minimal, it is necessary to grind only the upper sector of the circle. The movements of the machine should be along the grain of the wood.

With this method, you can get excellent results when grinding lining. The board becomes smooth and leaves no tool marks. Do not just get carried away and change the emery pads on the circle in time.

The log house is polished in a similar way. Here it is desirable that the support plate be thin at the edge. With such a plate it will be easier to grind the narrow places where the logs join. Otherwise, this work will have to be finished with a chisel.

We work on concrete + (Video)

If it was not possible to purchase a branded protective dust cover with a nozzle for a vacuum cleaner, then you can do it yourself. To do this, we take a used bucket from under the putty or glue with a diameter slightly larger than the circle of the grinder. We cut off the bottom part at a height slightly larger than the assembled grinding part.

We cut a hole in the bottom for installation on the gearbox and a hole for a plastic plumbing corner outlet. Now we connect the vacuum cleaner hose to the nozzle and work quietly.

The grinding wheel must be designed for stone processing. Concrete and concrete surfaces are preferably sanded with the entire surface of the wheel. This will save processing time, and well level the surface plane.

When grinding a concrete floor, it is necessary to constantly control the plane with the help of a construction ruler, because due to the different density of concrete, recesses can be made. For the processing of butt joints between concrete pours, it will be sufficient to achieve one level combination.

It is good to grind concrete floors and surfaces with a Matrix diamond grinding cup. If the grinder is 150 mm, then the cup is 125 mm.

Grinding metal surfaces + (Video)

The metal is polished according to different requirements. Most often, the metal is ground for painting or for further polishing. The main tool is a support cup with replaceable emery pads. The selection of sandpaper depends on the degree of processing and on the condition of the metal.

During grinding, it is necessary to work only part of the disk. There should be no untreated areas on the surface.

It is desirable to coat the treated surfaces of ordinary steel with a primer. Moisture in the air can coat the metal very quickly and cause rust.

You will need

• - cycle;
• - whetstone;
• - water;
• - a spray bottle or sponge;
• - primer for wood;
• - flat brush;
• - sandpaper (P100, P120, P180, P240);
• - holder for sandpaper or boss, bar;
• - double sided tape;
• - round stick;
• - sanding sponge

Instruction

Raise the workpiece against a light source and carefully examine any irregularities. Also in the future you will be able to control the quality of your work. If you see small grooves from the planer and protruding fibers on the planed part, you need to scrape the wood.

Pick up a scraper (metal tool with a cutting edge) that is well-sharpened at a 90-degree angle. Take it with two, put it at an angle and start moving in the direction of the wood fibers. Thus it is possible to align solid wood, veneer and plywood. Chipboards (chipboards) are not recommended for scraping - they quickly dull the tool. In the process of work, check the sharpening of the cycle and correct it on the whetstone.

Moisten the surface of the workpiece with warm, clean water and a foam sponge. You can use a spray bottle. After the part dries, some of the dents on it will disappear, and the wood fibers will rise.

Apply a diluted wood primer to the surface to be treated - this will speed up the sanding process. Work with a flat brush with soft bristles. The optimal conditions for high-quality priming are a cool, dry room in which there is no access to a large amount of dust. Let the product dry for an hour.

Start leveling the wood first with coarse sandpaper, then gradually switch to finer abrasive. Treat rough cuts with a hacksaw with a coarse-grained sandpaper (marking P100); planed surfaces - with P120 abrasive. For finishing sanding, first use sandpaper P180, then - P240.

In order for the abrasive to adhere evenly to flat surfaces, it is recommended to use special holders for sandpaper - plastic or hard rubber. You can wrap the sheet around a cork boss or bar with smooth edges.

It is necessary to grind the wooden part only in the direction of the wood fibers. Do not press too hard on the working tool - otherwise you can achieve the opposite effect and scratch the workpiece. If you need to process a small detail, attach a piece of sandpaper to the workbench with double-sided tape and carefully run the desired part of the product over the abrasive.

Be especially careful when sanding surfaces of complex shapes: profiles, curves, grooves, small roundings. Place a sheet of sandpaper between two fingers, or stick a strip of abrasive on a thin stick. For processing roundings, you can buy a sanding sponge with a soft elastic lining - it must completely fit the area to be treated.

Easily grind the edges of the transitions from the frontal plane of the part to the end. Smooth out the ends, moving from the middle to the edges. This will be the final stage of grinding the wooden blank. You just have to carefully clean the surface of sanding dust.

Grinding machines will achieve excellent results, but often cause bad surprises.

We will tell you how to avoid the most common mistakes when applying them.

If you do everything right, with the help of sanding with your own hands you will achieve a very smooth surface. It is worth at least a little mistake, and you have to correct the defects.

The tips below will help you minimize this risk.

Correspondence of abrasive grit to wood properties

Potential Problem: Deciding that sanding dense, finely vascularized woods like walnut and cherry is best with fine-grained paper, you put a sanding drum in your drill chuck, wrapping it with a fresh piece of #220 sandpaper, or you attach a new disc to the base of your eccentric sander and start sanding, firmly pressing the part to quickly remove saw marks on the edges. Suddenly you smelled burning wood. The top photo shows the result of such grinding, only slightly exaggerated for clarity. Such a part, as a rule, has to be thrown away.

Correct Method: Avoid the problem by using sanding discs or drums with a coarser grit such as 80 grit. After turning on the machine, move the part evenly, avoiding strong pressure, especially on the ends. You need to move the part at a constant speed, avoiding stops in order to prevent the occurrence of burns.

Vertical spindle machines with an oscillating drum are better at sanding hard and dense woods. The up and down movements of the spindle help to dissipate the heat generated during grinding, unlike a conventional grinding drum mounted on a drilling machine, but even in this case it is necessary to constantly move the part.

If you need to grind the contours of the sawn part to the lines of the template, first saw it with a minimum allowance (no more than 1 mm) in order to minimize the grinding time and prevent overheating.

When do you need hand sanding?

Potential problem: You sand a primed surface or a dried coat of varnish before applying the next one, using sandpaper number 220. Accidentally, the abrasive rubs through the varnish layer and touches the stained wood. Now you will have to completely remove the coating to bare wood and start over the damaged surface.

The right method: first determine whether intermediate sanding of the finish layers is necessary.

Coatings such as nitro varnish partially dissolve the previously applied layer, so you can do without grinding. If you chose polyurethane without sanding, apply a second coat immediately after the first coat dries, which usually has a rough surface. After the second coat has dried, lightly sand it by hand with #320 elastic backing to create a roughness for good adhesion of the next coat. Ready-made compositions for priming wood require especially gentle and careful grinding.

Contouring

Potential Problem: You are grinding a workpiece with a long smooth curve on a vertical spindle machine. When you stop to admire your work, you find a lot of ugly bumps on the curved edge.

The correct method: in this example, for clarity, we have shown a somewhat exaggerated result of such grinding. Always use the largest diameter sanding drum to fit the bend radius. Instead of machine grinding, it is possible to successfully process such parts manually, using trimmings from sawing out a curved contour.

With coarse sandpaper, remove sawing marks from the edge of such trimming, trying not to change the outline of the edge. Then stick strips of sandpaper alternately on this edge, successively increasing the grit number from 60 to 180-220 units.

Sand the veneer carefully

Potential problem: By gluing the edge strips to a thin veneer lettuce, you are going to remove the protruding edges of the strips with a sander. In one place, which took a little longer to tinker with, the veneer on the part was rubbed through, exposing the lower layers of the substrate. The correct method: do not tilt the sander when it is at the edge of the part and do not press it against the surface, so as not to damage the thin layer of veneer and the glued edge strip. If you are afraid of accidentally ruining your work, sand the edge plates flush by hand using #220 or finer grit sandpaper.

You can also cut off the excess veneer with a chisel, pressing it against the surface of the part with a flat edge, and finally sand it with sandpaper No. 220.

How to keep the surface flat

Potential problem: when gluing a board from allotment boards of the same thickness, it is not easy to achieve a perfectly even and flat surface with imperceptible gluing lines. And if you move the grinder back and forth along the glue line for a long time, trying to smooth out irregularities, you can get an even worse result - uneven gluing lines turn into noticeable depressions.

Correct method: Sanders (especially belt sanders) are not the best way to level surfaces. When gluing the board, carefully check all glue joints and correct the position of the individual plot boards before the glue sets.

If the problem cannot be solved in this way, then after drying the shield with the help of an eye, determine the boundaries of the strip, the width of which is approximately twice the width of the sole of your grinder on either side of the glue line, and work the surface gradually, moving the tool in zigzags across the gluing line, so that over it no recess was formed.

How to keep your profile sharp

Potential problem: You are confident that you will be able to keep the running grinder at the same angle in order to work out all the recesses on the profile part. Unfortunately, the profile lines lost their clarity, and flat areas appeared on the convex places.

The correct method: For simple profiles (such as fillets or fillets), make a profile sanding pad out of dense foam by shaping it into the desired shape with a band saw and sticking on sandpaper (some types of glue will dissolve the foam).

Another way to achieve an excellent result is to divide a complex profile into several simple parts and process each of them with a separate profile block of the appropriate shape. This is not a very fast way, but it guarantees the clarity of the lines and the smoothness of the curved surfaces of the profile.

Materials of the wonderful magazine for carpenters and woodworkers WoodMaster were used in the preparation.

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Sanding a wooden floor is used to obtain a perfectly flat surface of parquet or plank flooring. Moreover, this technology is used for both old and new flooring. In the first case, renovation or renewal is carried out, in the second - alignment and preparation for finishing with protective agents: varnish, oil, wax.

Any wooden floor is assembled from many elements. In the process of laying new parquet slabs or large-format lamellas, it is very difficult to achieve a perfectly even surface. The most common occurrence is drops, minor defects, scratches, areas with sapwood.

Almost the same set of problems is found in the old flooring, which has been in operation for more than one year. To eliminate all these shortcomings, grinding a wooden floor is called upon, the essence of which is the polishing of wood and the preparation of its surface for varnish, oil, wax or any other decorative and protective agent.

Thus, the goals of grinding:

1. floor leveling;
2. Elimination of surface defects;
3. Removal of old paintwork, dirt.

Renovation of an old wooden floor.

Sanding a wood floor correctly is not an easy task. To do this, a number of hand tools or electrical units are used. But the secret to good work is to gradually reduce the grit size of the sanding head. That is, first of all, rough processing is carried out with a sandpaper with a grain of 40-60 units, then fine - 100-120, 140-180 units. Compliance with this simple rule will allow you to achieve excellent results even in difficult cases. For example, if the wooden deck has multiple surface damage or differences between the planks of more than 3 mm.

sanding the floor no need in the following cases:

How to sand wood floors

The processing of a new wood coating and the restoration of an old one begins with the question: which tool to choose? Focus on two basic conditions - the scope of work and financial capabilities.

Masters perform grinding in two ways:

To grind a wooden floor by hand, you will need:

With manual, as well as machine grinding, it is advisable not to forget about personal protection - a respirator mask and protective goggles.

For fast and high-quality preparation of wooden floors, the machine method is most often used. In this case, the following types of electrical equipment are used:

• Belt or drum type grinder.

This is a complex unit for pre-sanding and rough grinding of boards or small-format parquet slabs. Abrasive grit - from 40 to 80 units. The difference between the tape and drum apparatus is small. For the first, an abrasive skin cutting belt is used, which moves between two moving rollers. The second uses a piece of sanding tape glued to a certain size of the drum, which is mounted on a cylindrical shaft.

It should be noted that grinders of this category are produced in a rich assortment: professional and standard, with a single-phase connection for 220 V or three-phase for 380 V, with an integrated dust bag or an adapter for connecting a construction vacuum cleaner, etc. The cost varies widely: household appliances can be purchased on average for 3,000 - 50,000 rubles, the price of professional ones reaches 600,000 rubles.

• Surface grinder.

A single-disk with a mono nozzle made of sandpaper or a three-disk, equipped with 3 abrasive wheels with a grain size of 100 to 340 units is produced.

This type of product is designed for the finest, literally jewelry finish grinding of wood and cork surfaces. It is also used for intermediate leveling of varnish. Single-disk devices are simpler, but three-disk devices are interesting in that each element rotates around its own axis, and all three revolve around one common center.

Professional units are also equipped with a system of floating sanding attachments, which, combined with multidirectional rotation, allows you to work out the surface to a mirror-like smoothness and evenness. The price of grinding machines is from 20,000 to 220,000 rubles.

• Surface grinding single-disk machine of the "boot" type.

Designed for sanding wooden surfaces in hard-to-reach places, such as under radiators or on stairs, in corners or along walls. Abrasive grain size modulus – from 40 to 320 units. Both household and professional devices are equipped with convenient rotary handles, the ability to connect vacuum cleaners or dust collectors. The price starts from 9,000 rubles.

Surface grinders "boot".

• Angle grinders.

Includes grinders, vibration and eccentric (orbital) polishers. In the same group can be attributed small tape units of a household type. Recommended for rough and fine processing of wooden surfaces. Convenient for working in hard-to-reach places and small areas. Some products are equipped with a motor speed or power controller, as well as a kind of adapter for connecting a vacuum cleaner or dust collector.

The cheapest are vibrators. Their cost varies from 1000 to 35000 rubles. Bulgarians can be purchased for household, semi-professional and professional at prices ranging from 1,500 to 70,000 rubles. Orbital machines will cost a little more - from 3,000 to 90,000 rubles.

In a good way, in addition to the above units, you need to purchase or rent a construction vacuum cleaner in advance and buy a whole set of components. Including abrasive wheels, tapes or nozzles of various grits (preferably from 40 to 240 units), scissors, etc.

What is the best grinder to choose? There is no exact answer to this question, but it is worth paying attention to the main parameters:

Purpose and product class

Household products are characterized by low weight, low price and compact size. But they are intended for one-time or rare work. Power - no more than 1 kW. In addition, the width or diameter of the useful surface rarely exceeds 15 cm. It is difficult for an inexperienced master to work evenly over large areas with them - you need a good eye and a steady hand.

The professional series are large-sized and heavy devices with a working width of up to 30 cm or a diameter of up to 60 cm. There is good thermal protection, a special kit for quick change of nozzles, as well as various tread elements - RCDs, limiters, speed switches, rotary ergonomic handles, etc. The average power consumption of a grinder is about 2-2.5 kW.

Grinder for the pros.

Build quality

Pay attention not only to the ease of use, but also to the quality of the details. The machine must have a flat surface, without chips, coating sags, streaks, the gaps between the parts are minimal. Be sure to check the strength and reliability of fasteners.

Availability of additional devices

Including dust collectors or adapters for connecting a vacuum cleaner, soft start and engine speed control functions, overheating protection, etc.

All other criteria are selected by the buyer independently. We recommend choosing products from well-known manufacturers such as Lagler, Stanley, Bosch, Aeg, etc. They not only provide warranty and post-warranty service, but also have a wide network of dealer and service centers in Russia and the CIS countries.

Technology

Sanding is not that easy. This is a rather complex and time-consuming complex, including six main stages.

Coating preparation

New decking should be checked for defects such as loose knots, loose planks, protruding nails, chips, gaps that are too wide. Old parquet is checked for integrity, damage and strength of fixation. To eliminate the shortcomings, parquet glue and putty masses are most often used (special liquids or PVA glue mixed with fine sawdust). It is better not to use elastic grouts and sealants, as they do not gain sufficient strength and “clog” the abrasive nozzle.

In order not to damage the drum or disk of the machine, all steel elements must be “drowned” in the floor by at least 3 mm. Damaged planks must be replaced with new ones, and not glued - fixed with glue and hardware. Dust and debris are removed with a damp cloth or construction vacuum cleaner.

Primary grinding

Rough grinding.

First of all, a drum or belt type machine is used as the most productive and efficient. This stage is most often called sanding or rough grinding of the surface, since an abrasive material with a grain size of 40 or 60 units is used. Bumps, scratches, old paintwork, dirt, etc. are removed.

Professional devices allow you to adjust the clamping force of the abrasive. This is very convenient, because it ensures a uniform fit of the nozzle to the surface, which means better work. A tape or a glued strip is installed on the base, carefully fixed and deep processing is carried out:

• When decking - along the fibers from wall to wall. Transverse movement with such laying is allowed only when the machine is turned at vertical enclosing structures;
• On the parquet "herringbone" - diagonally, with a uniform advance over the entire surface;
• When laying braid, shield or palace parquet (multidirectional installation) - crosswise without highlighting individual sections;
• On the artistic parquet - a circular movement, twisted in a spiral

The grinding process is quite dusty, so drafts are an undesirable phenomenon. Therefore, in the working room, be sure to close the windows and entrance doors.

The master must periodically check the condition of the abrasive nozzle and, if necessary, replace the worn part with a new one. This is a kind of preventive measure against strips and individual uncultivated areas.

At the end of the main work, it is necessary to process corners and other hard-to-reach places. For rough grinding of the floor with a grinder, an orbital machine or a “boot”, you will need circular nozzles of the same grain size - 40 or 60 units.

fine grinding

The final leveling stage is carried out by surface grinders with one or three disc machines. At the same time, all minor irregularities, dents, cracks and other defects on the floor boards are finally eliminated. For efficient work, circles of different grain sizes are used - 60, 80, 100 and 120. In some cases, even abrasive discs with a fineness modulus of 180 or 240 are used.

The work is carried out again along the fibers. Nozzles should be replaced with new ones as they wear out. Corners, steps and other difficult areas are processed with an angle grinder or "boot" with circles of the same grain size. At the end of the work, the surface must be vacuumed again or wiped with a damp soft cloth. Fine wood suspension and dust must be removed completely.

Filling gaps and smallest defects

After leveling the surface, you can start filling. For this, paste-like ready-made compositions for wood or special putty liquids are used. Professionals prefer the latter, because when mixed with sawdust from the processed plank floor, a mass of an identical shade is obtained, which perfectly fills all the voids, while being quite elastic and not cracking over time. The mixture is applied with a stainless spatula, which allows you to fill the pores, while cutting off the "raised" small wood fibers.

Finishing grinding

Before processing with varnish, oil or wax, it is necessary to polish the surface again. The work is carried out after the putty has dried and polymerized. It is implemented using a surface grinder and angle grinder with abrasive nozzles with a grain size of 120-160 units. The direction of movement is the same - along the fibers. After treatment, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed again.

As a result, everything superfluous is completely removed from the surface and the floor becomes perfectly smooth.

Priming and topcoating

Even after applying the putty mass, it is advisable to prime the floor or treat it with impregnations with a fungicidal, bioprotective or tinting effect. If a ready-made colored putty was used, be prepared for the fact that the surface will be of different colors. Putty liquids mixed with fine wood dust from parquet do not have this drawback.

After the primer dries, the first coat of varnish, oil or wax is applied. Then an intermediate fine grinding of the floor or polishing (in oil or wax) is carried out using orbital or surface grinders with nozzles with a grain size of more than 140 units. Before applying the final layer of varnish or oil-wax mixture, the surface must be vacuumed again or wiped with a damp cloth.

Thus, it is necessary to spend a lot of time and effort on polishing a wooden floor, not to mention finances. But it is this technology that allows you to get a beautiful and remarkably even floor without the slightest flaw in a few days.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for their selection. Just send in the form below a detailed description of the work to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and firms by mail. You can see reviews of each of them and photos with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

When talking about log sanding, they mean the material from which the building is made, however, there are some differences between log sanding and different types of timber - these should be considered later. But before deciding how best to grind a log house, it is necessary to decide at what point after its construction it is necessary to start grinding the walls.

When to grind a log house

It is better to grind dry wood - it turns out better, while working with wet wood leads to the separation of fibers and presents a certain difficulty. But this will have to wait quite a long time. Some breeds can dry up to 7 years. However, after this long period, the log house may lose its attractive appearance - a tree without protective coatings will be subject to any negative influence from the outside, it may dry out, crack, rot due to moisture.

Of course, it would be possible to cover it with paint or other protective agent, but without grinding, the applied coating will not have a strong adhesion to the natural material, which means that all the listed misfortunes will still happen, only a little later.

So it turns out that sanding should be done on naturally wet, not yet dried wood, in order to cut off all the bumps and prepare the material for processing with tools that prevent premature wear.

Before sanding a log house, let's ask ourselves what other benefits sanding provides.

• Sanding removes the pores of fungi and mold from the surface of the wood.
• With the help of this type of work, dirt and roughness are removed from the walls.
• In this way, you can protect the walls from direct sunlight, which causes the wood to darken.
• As a result of the procedure, the impregnating agents fall on the tree evenly.

Now is the time to think about how to grind the log house.

For processing logs, you need a tool that is convenient for rounded surfaces, so that you can opt for an angle grinder - an angle grinder.

For work, you will need special disk nozzles with an emery coating.

In the case of working with a bar, a belt sander is suitable. If you decide to do this yourself, use a more compact and lightweight version of the tool.

In addition, you will need a large amount of sandpaper, since not all areas can be reached with a tool.

And so, we came to the most important thing - how to grind a log house.

Grinding rules

• For safety reasons, prepare goggles and a mask with a respirator, to avoid getting small particles of wood into the eyes and respiratory tract, use work gloves.
• Distribute the work so that a well-treated tree is immediately covered with a protective agent.
• First, coarse emery is used, and only at the end, emery with a finer grain.
• Get ready for the fact that the process of work is quite lengthy.

Wood floor maintenance - sanding

Sanding is a finishing job and is an essential part of caring for wood floors. How to sand a wooden floor is a pressing problem for many owners of this flooring.

In order for wood floors to serve for a long time and please with their appearance, they must be constantly kept in perfect condition: painted, covered with tinting compounds, wax or varnish, but all this will not have a result if the wood has not been sanded first. It is worth immediately finding out what is the best way to sand a tree.

The work will require some costs - no, you do not have to buy special equipment, you can rent a grinder, or you will have to invite a specialist.

But for full-fledged work, you need to acquire a tool for places that the grinding device simply cannot reach.

• This is sandpaper of different grain sizes in large quantities.
• Tool for simple (rough) grinding - cycle.
• You will also need the so-called "boot" - a mini-machine for difficult areas.

Now we find out how to properly sand a wooden floor.

Floor work

1. We start by taking out all the furniture, removing the baseboards.
2. We check the floors for the presence of protruding nails and reliable fastening of the floorboards.
3. We fill the equipment with coarse sandpaper (40) and go through the room diagonally.
4. We adjust the pressure of the drum on the floor—it should be medium.
5. It should be remembered that you need to turn the car on and off while driving.
6. After the first pass over the area, the emery is replaced with a smaller one (100-120).
7. At the end, we process corners and hard-to-reach areas with the help of a "boot", cycles and emery.

How to sand a wooden or parquet floor, you now know.

After the procedure, the floor must be vacuumed and you can start painting or applying varnish.