Fixing drywall to wooden slats. Fastening drywall sheets to a frame made of wooden beams Wooden slats for drywall

To work with drywall, various materials are used. The most common method of building profile metal frames, however, wooden structures can also be found quite often.

Wood is a natural, environmentally friendly building material, so some people prefer it. It is worth saying that the tree is subject to climatic influences, biological corrosion and fire hazard, and therefore requires additional processing.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame is used quite often.

Wood preparation

Physical Properties

The frame for drywall is made from high-quality coniferous wood.

Make a frame for drywall from coniferous wood. A beam of various sections is used, the value of which depends on the height of the partition and the method of sheathing.

Main physical characteristics:

• Humidity from 12 to 18%;
• For partitions of the W121 brand with a height of 2.8 - 3 meters, a beam with a section of 60 × 50 mm for risers and 60 × 40 mm for the crate is used;
• For partitions of the W122 brand with a height of 2.8 - 4.2 meters, a bar with a section of 60 × 50 mm is used for risers and battens, while depending on the height, different thicknesses of the plasterboard are used: for a height of 2.8 - 3 meters - 2 × 12.5 mm, 3.3 - 3.6 meters - 2 ×14 mm, 3.6 - 3.9 meters - 2 × 16 mm, 3.9 - 4.2 meters - 2 × 18 mm;
• The step between the risers for all cases should not exceed 60 cm;
• Fire retardant treatment must comply with the first fire safety group;
• Connection on nails, spikes and self-tapping screws is allowed, while spikes are most preferable, as they create a rigid and durable connection;
• The thickness of sound insulation made of mineral wool should be between 50 and 60 mm;
• The wall thickness can be from 85 to 132 mm;
• The insulation index ranges from 41 to 51 depending on the thickness of the wall.

Important!
Before installation, the wood should lie down for several days in the room where it is supposed to be installed in order to acclimatize.

You should use high-quality lumber that meets the requirements for moisture and fire safety. It is necessary to make sure that there are certificates on the processing of the material with flame retardants and the passage of relevant examinations by authorized bodies.

Chemical processing

Treatment with an antiseptic is a condition for the long service life of lumber.

In addition to fire treatment, the wooden frame for drywall must undergo antiseptic treatment.

This measure is aimed at combating all kinds of biological risk factors, namely:

• Fungal and mold microorganisms. A tree can serve as a nutrient medium for the mycelium of a number of molds and not only fungi. In this case, the wood becomes unusable and collapses;
• biological decay. Wood is an organic material that is subject to necrobiosis and decay, like all organisms. Preservation requires antiseptic treatment.
• carpenter insects. Many insects are known to feed on wood and render it unusable.
• rodents. They also pose a danger to the tree. Treatment with antiseptics repels these animals.

Insect pests can damage wood in a short time.

Various chemical compounds are used as antiseptics. One of the best is sodium fluoride.

It is a light gray powder, soluble in hot water. The limiting solubility is 3.5 - 4%.

Sodium fluoride sinks well into the wood and is very weakly washed out. At the same time, the compound does not decompose and does not corrode the metal, has no smell and is not toxic to humans. Fairly strong antiseptic.

An example of wood damage by fungal mycelium.

Sodium silicofluoride is also used, often with the addition of soda ash, which converts it to pure sodium fluoride.

The use of oily antiseptics is unacceptable for residential premises:

• creosote,
• coal,
• shale,
• anthracene oils.

These compounds are toxic and can harm the health of people living in the home.

Installation of a wooden frame under drywall

Tracing lines connecting partition walls to walls

Use the 3 or 4 meter rule to draw lines.

Before proceeding directly to the installation of the partition, it is necessary to trace, or, more simply, mark the lines along which the partition will adjoin the walls, floor and ceiling of the room. (See also the article How to Build a Drywall Partition: Features.)

To do this, you need to measure the distance at which the plane of the future partition should be located and retreat from it by the width of the GKL sheet.

It is better to do this along the ceiling-wall line. Having marked the desired point under the ceiling, it is easy to transfer it with a plumb line down the wall. To do this, we hammer a nail at a point, hang a plumb line and mark the corresponding point at the bottom of the wall, near the floor.

A centered weight with an axis indicator should be used as a plumb line.

We connect these two points and get the first line. Next, you need to draw a line perpendicular to the wall from the bottom point.

This can be done by constructing the so-called "Egyptian triangle": a right triangle with an aspect ratio of 3:4:5, where the legs correspond to the 3rd and 4th, and the hypotenuse to the 5th.

At the same time, one leg is set aside along the wall from the bottom point, making it a multiple of the 3rd. Next, from the bottom point, we build an arc of a circle in the direction of the perpendicular to the wall with a radius that is a multiple of 4.

Then, from the other end of the leg, built along the wall, we build an arc of a circle with a radius that is a multiple of 5 so that it intersects with the previously constructed arc.

Connecting the point of intersection of these arcs with the original low point, we get a perpendicular to the wall. We draw a line on the floor along this perpendicular - the second line of our partition.

In the place where the floor line connects to the opposite wall, mark a point at the bottom of the wall. With the help of a level or plumb line, we transfer this point to the ceiling. We connect the lower and upper points and get the third line. (See also Drywall Niches in the Wall: How to Make.)

Next, we connect the two upper points on the walls along the ceiling and get the fourth and last line. Thus, we should get a rectangle along the lines floor-wall-ceiling-wall, along which the partition will adjoin the room.

Advice!
To build a perpendicular, you can go for a trick: attach a sheet of drywall to the wall with the short side, and draw a perpendicular along the long side from the calculated point.

Frame mounting

Wooden frame for plasterboard partitions.

As you can see in the photo, the frame consists of a frame and vertical as well as horizontal bars. The installation of the frame should begin with the frame.

To do this, along the lines that we built along the walls and ceiling, bars should be fixed. If the house is wooden, we fasten them with screws or spikes to the ceiling beam, floor joists and walls.

If the building is stone, we fasten the bars with dowels and screws. You can also use straight hangers or brackets.

The Knauf bracket can be used to mount the beams to the wall.

We fasten solid bars along the walls and ceiling. Along the floor, the timber should diverge in both directions from the doorway. If the opening is located near the wall, then the lower beam will be solid and located on one side of the opening.

So, we fix all the bars, for drilling holes in the walls and ceiling we use an impact drill with a drill for concrete.

Doorway

The doorway is formed by double risers.

When the frame is ready, proceed to the installation of the doorway.

Racks

Racks should be installed vertically in level.

To determine the location of the jumper (vertical, which is above the opening), we apply a sheet of drywall, which will be at the doorway, and place the jumper in place of its edge so that the edge of the sheet falls in the middle of the board.

Advice!
To connect the beams, it is better to use metal corners and metal linings designed for assembling truss systems.
These fasteners are reliable and designed for significant loads.

We check each detail according to the level: the racks must be strictly vertical, the lintels must be strictly horizontal.

You should also try to arrange the racks so that the wall contains the maximum possible number of whole sheets of plasterboard. This will save time and material.

All manipulations for assembling a wooden frame are easy to do with your own hands, and alone. We advise beginners to work with an assistant, it is better if it is a technically competent or experienced person.

The wooden frame is sheathed in the same way as the metal one.

The work on sheathing the frame with GKL sheets is the topic of a separate article. We can only say that drywall is mounted on a wooden frame in the same way as on a metal one.

It should also be noted that the price of a profile is lower than that of high-quality lumber, and dealing with low-quality lumber is more expensive for yourself, so think carefully.

Tool

To work, you will need a standard set of tools for wood.

So, you will most likely need a set like this:

If you don't have an impact drill or a screwdriver, you can rent them at the hardware store. Also, do not forget about mineral wool, which is necessary for soundproofing.

You can use thick mats so as not to lay the cotton wool in two layers. It is better to choose mats on a grid or other basis that prevents the material from caking.

Conclusion

Assembling a wooden frame for plasterboard is a simple job that does not require special skills. This instruction gives a general idea, for greater clarity, we recommend watching the video on this page, which will help you understand many of the nuances and intricacies of assembling the structure.

Wall cladding with drywall provides for a device or wooden beams. Metal crate is mainly used, it is more durable and practical.

In rooms with normal and dry temperature and humidity conditions, it is permissible to use wooden blocks with a humidity of 12%, impregnated with antiseptic and flame retardant compounds, for the construction of the frame. In places with high humidity, as well as where an increase in the fire resistance of structures is required, only a metal frame is used.

What beam is needed

For the installation of wooden frames, a bar with a section of 50x30 and 60x40 mm (ceilings), 40x25 (walls) is chosen. Basic requirements for the material: humidity - no more than 12%, no cracks and other defects. The common nature of the tree is pine.

What fasteners and connection methods are needed

The connection of the frame parts, their fastening on the wall and ceiling is performed dowel-nails. In concrete surfaces, holes are first made with a puncher with a drill, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the dowel.

Additional fasteners include metal corners. They join vertical racks with horizontal ones. The wooden guide rails are fastened in increments of 40-60 cm (the distance between the nearest racks).

The metal plate is used for both walls and ceilings.

The connection of the elements of a wooden frame with each other is performed self-tapping screws at an angle or metal perforated corners. The installation of the bars on the wall is done with an indent from it, using ceiling and floor starting profiles or without indentation, when the starting bars are not needed, and the vertical racks are fixed directly to the wall. If it is crooked, it is leveled with special compounds or by laying wooden spacers in the right places.

Requirements for materials and rules of work

The set of rules for design and construction has the basic requirements that must be followed to create a solid frame and subsequent placement of sheets. Here are the main ones:

1. All products and materials must have a hygienic conclusion and fire certificates;
2. In the space between the frame and the rough base, where the operating conditions require it, it is necessary to place heat, sound, fire insulating material;
3. Water absorption of waterproof and water-resistant drywall sheets should be no more than 10%;
4. Sheets GKLVO (moisture and fire resistant) are used in rooms with air humidity not more than 90%, temperature not exceeding 30C. When using them for surface treatment, waterproof primers, putties, paints are used;
5. To fasten sheets of plasterboard with a thickness of not more than 15 mm to a wooden frame, TN35 screws are used, up to 24 mm thick - TN45;
6. With longitudinal placement of sheets, the step of their fastening is made no more than 60 cm, with a transverse one - no more than 1.25 m;
7. To improve the soundproofing properties of the structure, a sealing tape is laid between the guide bars, ceiling and floor;
8. Sheets are fixed to the frame with self-tapping screws in increments of 25 cm, (in different directions) with an indent from the edges - 10 mm (edge ​​with cardboard), 15 mm - (cut edge);
9. The joints of the sheets in their vertical arrangement should fall on the center of the racks, in the case of a horizontal one - on additional bars placed between the vertical racks;
10. The step of the bearing bars on the ceiling is 50 cm with a transverse arrangement of the GKL, 40 cm with a vertical one;
11. GKL fastening step on the ceiling - no more than 17 cm.

Step by step construction instructions

The installation of the frame on the wall should be carried out after the completion of wet processes and before the assembly of the finished floor, on the ceiling - after finishing and laying utilities. All work is carried out in the following order:

1. markup;
2. Frame assembly;
3. Installation of sheets;
4. Finishing work.

1. Markup

On the floor and ceiling with a chopping cord, the position of the future starting bars of the frame is applied, taking into account their thickness. The transfer of marks between the floor and the ceiling is performed by a laser level or a magnetic plummet. At the same time, the location of the doorways, the attachment points of the vertical racks are noted, taking into account the selected step.

Attention. It is necessary that the joint of the sheets falls on the center of the vertical racks. To do this, they make an accurate calculation, and if necessary, increase or decrease the pitch of the profiles in the right places.

2. Assembly of the frame

On the marked lines on the floor and ceiling, the starting bars are fixed with dowel-nails, at least 3.5 cm long. Next, vertical bars are installed adjacent to the walls. Their length should be such that they fit snugly between the guides. The elements are fixed with self-tapping screws or metal corners. At this stage, the selected area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room should be framed around the perimeter.

Insulation is embedded in the frame

Attention! If it is planned to place a heater in the space between the frame and the wall, it is necessary to take this into account at the stage of calculations by placing the starting beam at a tedious distance from the wall.

At the second stage, vertical bars with the selected pitch are mounted. To provide additional rigidity of the structure, it is reinforced with racks placed horizontally between them.

Laying communications

If you plan to place sanitary piping and low-voltage wiring (TV, Internet, telephone), you need to do this after assembling the frame. To simplify the process of placing vertical bars, metal profiles can be used as starting guides on the floor and ceiling.

3. Mounting sheets

Sheets are placed on the frame, fitting close to the wall and ceiling, fixed with screws from the center to the edges or simultaneously in a vertical and horizontal plane (alternately). Self-tapping screws are recessed by 1 mm. A gap of 1-1.5 cm is left between the sheets and the floor, subsequently sealing it with a sealant.

Attention. If the self-tapping screw entered the material not at a right angle or deformed, it is replaced with another one, located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the first one.

Joints between sheets with or without reinforcing tape, depending on the type of gypsum board edge. The putty composition is applied in 2 layers - starting and finishing and should not protrude beyond the seam. Corners are processed using reinforcing tape, bending it at the desired angle. After drying with a solution, the surface of the sheets is finished, followed by the placement of the facing material.

To date, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. He is often used to level the floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to walls, and also get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before embarking on the study of such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth understanding what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard gypsum and special fillers inside. It is used for a wide variety of purposes. Sheets with different thicknesses are produced for different jobs. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose materials of a suitable category.

Peculiarities

Today in the stores of building and finishing materials you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. To level the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose “dry” material for such work - drywall.

To date, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many. It is faced by both owners of private houses and city apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not hold securely, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials even emphasize the bumps on the walls.

In such cases, you can not do without a perfectly even and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible to process and can be covered with almost any canvas and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more difficult.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which consists in fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to restore its original appearance. That is why ordinary drywall is not suitable for the manufacture of, for example, arched structures, since it will simply break with slight bending.

Another distinctive quality of drywall is its multitasking. It is used not only to level different bases, but also to make interesting multi-level ceilings, shelving with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

First, let's get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of drywall sheets:

• They are distinguished by a flat and smooth surface, because of which they are chosen for leveling various bases.
• The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. In a room where the walls are sheathed with this material, it will always be warm and cozy.
• Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It does not contain dangerous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
• GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

• Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Due to this quality, such material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and fungus.
• Often, consumers buy drywall, as it has an affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
• Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various heaters (more often foam and mineral wool are preferred).
• Working with drywall is quite simple. You do not need to buy expensive tools for this.

• Using this finishing material, you can realize any bold design ideas. That is why drywall is used by many designers in their designs.
• Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
• GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
• It is seamlessly processed. To do this, you can use almost any material, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

• Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. It can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvases.
• Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
• With the frame method of fixing drywall, draft walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously with the help of special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
• Many consumers purchase drywall for repair because it can be used immediately after purchase, letting them lie down for 2-3 days without undergoing additional preparation.
• To date, the choice of drywall sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

• Ordinary drywall is not recommended for installation in rooms with a high level of humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
• Drywall sheets may begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, hanging bathroom sinks, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight on plaster walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in place for long, and then just fall off and damage the drywall.

• Work with drywall must be very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material unless it is arched.
• Drywall on the frame will "eat up" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all areas.

How significant are the listed disadvantages - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly follow the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install drywall on partitions in your home, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will need:

• special knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• special glue (for frameless mounting method);
• building level, plumb line, special marking cord, tape measure, long ruler (you can take a rule instead), pencil / marker - you will need these tools for marking walls and for competent control of the verticality of surfaces;
• regular and rubber hammers;

• spatula (you can take a trowel instead);
• a separate container for mixing the adhesive composition;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• self-tapping screws;
• dowel;
• screws;
• electric drill with mixer attachment;

• roller with a long handle;
• soft brush;
• planer (needed for chamfering);
• putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work has been completed).

From the materials you will need:

• GKL sheets (regular, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
• galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with an appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and seamlessly fixed on various grounds.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log house. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that wooden houses always shrink and gypsum boards can only be installed in them after this process is completed. Otherwise, the sheets may be damaged under such conditions or deformed.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses, you must:

• provide space for the installation of insulation (unless, of course, you plan to additionally insulate the room);
• have free space for laying communication systems.

Aligning the walls in wooden houses is not an easy task. In this case, the best option would be frame mounting. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to the boards and bars, and then drywall is glued to them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces, it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such bases using special glue. Such adhesives are very common in stores today. For example, the well-known company Knauf offers a high-quality Perlfix composition.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also refer to the usual gluing of the material without making the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level how curved the floors are, after which any dirt, dust and grease spots are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be absolutely dry, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve sufficient adhesion with drywall even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to align the walls of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is due to the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before that, the foam block must be prepared - finished with soil or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require alignment. In such cases, both frame and frameless mounting methods can be used. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. Glue in such cases must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with foam block ceilings. Experts recommend using compositions from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall can make the walls smooth even in adobe houses. Such buildings are full-fledged composites built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such building materials, there is no need to talk about perfectly even partitions. For this reason, they simply need leveling sheets such as drywall.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that drywall sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or in a frameless way. The choice of one or another installation option largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

Go to profile

This option for installing drywall is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some of the nuances of this common installation method:

• A heater can be placed between the wall and the profile, if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, foam or polystyrene for this. However, we must not forget that the draft walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
• In the cavity behind the frame, various engineering communications can be hidden. It can be water pipes, radiators or electrical wiring.
• Do not forget that in rooms with a high level of humidity it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets in such conditions will not last long.

Mounting drywall sheets on the frame has several advantages:

• with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
• frame installation allows you to align even ugly curved walls;
• before installing the frame and fixing the drywall, the draft partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk on them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the frame:

• First you need to measure the walls and make markings on them for the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
• Marking for guides must begin with the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the ceiling, then a line is drawn and transferred to the floor with the help of a plumb line.
• Vertical profiles must be placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each drywall sheet rests on three racks.
• As for the installation of suspensions, here it is also necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

• After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, along the perimeter, you need to fix the guide profiles. To fasten them to the ceiling and floor, you must use a puncher, dowels and screws.
• At the points marked during the measurements, you need to attach the suspensions.
• Carriers should be inserted into the guide profiles and fixed with hangers.
• Fasten all the details as reliably and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

• Before installing drywall sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
• When the frame is ready, you should proceed to install drywall sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly "drowned" in the drywall.
• After installing all the sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using reinforcing tape.
• When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely puttied. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it should be borne in mind that such a design will take up part of the area in the room, so in a very small room it is better to use the frameless method, unless, of course, this is allowed to be done.

Profileless structures

The frameless fastening of drywall is also called adhesive, since with it the sheets are fixed on the ceilings with the help of a special adhesive.

When choosing this installation option, you must comply with the following conditions:

• on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
• crumbling areas should also not be;

• walls should not be subject to freezing;
• they must be protected from moisture and excessive moisture;
• from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contaminants.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be accessed if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

Glue plasterboard on the base can be in different ways.

The best option must be selected based on the technical condition of the floors:

• The first mounting method is designed for more even surfaces. With it, the fixing of gypsum boards occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
• If the floors have irregularities on their surface, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum sheet (keep a distance of 35 cm between the heaps of glue), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering in more detail the instructions for the profileless installation of drywall sheets:

• First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of drywall slabs.
• Then you need to correctly prepare the surface of the base. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
• Now you need to cut the GKL sheets, as you will need not only whole panels, but also pre-prepared inserts.
• To make a straight cut, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make curved cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

• Prepare the glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum mortars, which harden for a long time.
• If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then it is worth adding wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the water for dilution.
• Now you can start gluing drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of ​​irregularities on the base. If the overlaps are sufficiently even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
• To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth putting beacons. They can be built from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued around the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

• The right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
• After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the extreme beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
• Align the beacons with the rule.
• Gypsum boards must be pressed using the rule set in the various provisions. Tap the panels with a rubber mallet and correct their position.
• When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline in matters of wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called unbearably difficult and energy-intensive.

To get a more aesthetic and reliable design, Consider the following advice and recommendations from professionals:

• It is permissible to install gypsum boards in the room only after laying the floor coverings. Also, by the time the floors are leveled in the room, all issues related to laying communications and heating systems should be resolved.
• When gluing drywall (with a frameless method), try to avoid cruciform joints. It is better to lay out sheets with an offset.
• Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets for profileless installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
• In order for the drywall to hold securely on the floors, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling and falling apart sections in the walls.

• With the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for better sealing of all finishing seams). For this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
• It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distractions and without wasting time on unnecessary activities.
• Adhesive compositions must be diluted, based on the instructions. It must be printed on the packaging.
• Do not over-tighten fasteners on drywall as this can warp the brittle material.
• To work with drywall you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

• Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
• Plasterboard sheets are recommended to be installed on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after they lie down in your house for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

Fastening drywall to timber is one of two ways to finish a room on a frame, although less common. is associated with many nuances that are absent when using. Still, the use of wood is possible and does not even lose relevance, especially when. Is it possible to attach drywall sheets to a wooden beam, and what should be known and considered when working with such material?
The process of attaching drywall to a wooden beam

It is possible to assemble a frame from a bar for drywall in any residential and non-residential premises.

• living rooms with wooden walls;
• utility rooms of a dwelling made of wood;
• at dachas;
• outbuildings (sheds, garages, etc.);
• in residential buildings and apartments;
• on balconies and in apartment buildings.
  Ready-made wooden frame for the installation of drywall in the loggia

  However, when used in unheated utility rooms, good waterproofing is required, and the timber itself must be dried and treated with at least a paint and varnish coating.

  It is best to use modern protective impregnations for wood, or drying oil, but the latter option is practically not produced today.

  Why use a frame made of timber, if a metal profile can completely replace it, and is it possible to do this?

  Advantages and disadvantages of wooden frames

  What are the advantages of a wooden frame over the already classic metal profile counterparts:

  

  But, the ideal material does not exist, the beam also has its drawbacks. This is a shorter service life in comparison with metal counterparts, flammability, the possibility of damage by insects and rodents.
  
  Mounted wooden frame for drywall sheets
  However, the main disadvantages of wooden crates are low resistance to moisture and the inability to assemble a non-standard curvilinear frame.
  However, GKL can be mounted on a bar, but following the technology and carefully choosing the material.

  The choice of timber for the crate

  If it is decided to collect, then the choice of material must be approached very carefully.
  List following:

  
  

  After purchasing the material, all rails must be inspected again and treated with protective impregnations or at least painted. This will protect the wood from moisture penetration.
  It is important to remember that you need to store the timber and slats in a horizontal position, otherwise, after time has passed, vertical storage will result in curved racks.
  

  What do you need to work

  The list of necessary tools for assembling a wooden frame is different from the equipment for working with metal profiles.
  Required tools:

  

  It is necessary to purchase additional materials:,.
  Mounting angles are selected according to the size of the beam, if it has sides of 50 × 50, then the hardware is preferably the same. This will ensure a secure fit.
  
  Various types of mounting brackets

  How to assemble a frame and fix drywall

  Assembly work begins with the marking and fastening of the timber, which will act as guide profiles. collected according to the following algorithm:

  • If the room has a wooden floor, then on the ceiling you can simply assemble the crate by attaching the slats across the supporting beams;
    
  • Lines are drawn on the floor and ceiling where the guides will be laid, the distance from the wall is chosen to be optimal for leveling the surface and laying thermal insulation when (if it is planned);
  • A guide beam is laid along the marks and holes for fasteners are drilled through it. At this stage, you will have to change the drills, having initially drilled holes in the wood, you will need to change them for concrete floors and floors;
    Laying rails on the floor
  • on the right and left along the walls they are installed on a rack with an emphasis on the guides, they are also attached to the walls with dowels-nails. Additionally strengthened with mounting corners at the top and bottom;
    
  • At a considerable distance from the load-bearing wall along the lines where the racks will be installed, direct suspensions are attached. Fittings are also fixed with dowels, nails, or fasteners suitable for the material of the walls;
    Scheme of fastening a wooden frame to a log house
  • Racks are mounted on the rails, they are connected to the corners of the bearing beams and connected to the suspensions. It is better to fasten fittings to wooden racks with press washers, their wide hats will securely fix all the elements. The number of racks is calculated by 3-4 pieces per 1 sheet of drywall;
    The scheme of fastening the racks to the beam
  • In a checkerboard pattern, crossbars must be installed in the frame between the uprights. Fastenings are provided with corners. The location is changed alternately at the top and bottom, alternating after 1-2 sheets;
    
  • When laying the insulation in a wooden frame, it must be covered with a steam barrier. The wiring is enclosed in a corrugated plastic pipe and mounted with brackets on the racks.
    Scheme for installing insulation inside a wooden frame
    
    

  A similar technology is also used to assemble a frame from a beam to the ceiling. At the same time, a continuous crate is made without placing the crossbar in a checkerboard pattern. The video tells about the installation of a wooden frame under drywall.
  

Drywall is great for interior wall decoration. With its help, you can make absolutely smooth walls, while only a real professional can achieve such a result with just plaster. Drywall is suitable for brick, block and frame walls.

There are three ways to attach this material to the wall. One is to attach drywall to wood slats. In this way, you can hide communications running along the wall (for example, pipes and wires), as well as make additional heat and sound insulation.

Tools and materials:

1. Laths from soft grades of wood. The optimal section is 100 × 50 mm or 75 × 50 mm, but less is possible.
2. Drywall screws
3. screwdriver
4. Wall dowels
5. Drill

Advice. Sound and heat insulating material can be laid under the drywall sheets. For greater effect, you can use heat-insulating drywall.

Process:

1. With chalk, draw marking lines for fastening the rails along the perimeter of the wall and for vertical rails. Calculate the spacing between the vertical battens so that the edges of each drywall sheet are in the middle of the next batten. Cut the slats to the required length with a saw.
2. We fasten the rails to the wall. Use dowels and a drill.
3. Between the attached racks of those de wooden slats, install spacers. They must be adjusted to the size of the drywall sheets so that the joints between the sheets fall in the middle of the spacers. However, nail the slats at different heights, otherwise you will not be able to drive nails into their ends.
4. In those places where the slats do not fit snugly against the wall, place supports from scraps of wood or drywall between them and the wall.
5. When the base mesh is ready, we begin to fix the drywall. Recall that its edges should pass exactly in the middle of the racks and struts. For fasteners, it is best to use screws - they will reduce the risk of splitting drywall. Mark the fastener every 15 mm and so that the screw heads are recessed below the surface of the material. Where the drywall sheet is too large, cut it to size with a fine-toothed hacksaw.
6. We seal the joints between the sheets of drywall. Use adhesive reinforcing tape to seal the seams or regular tape, sticking it with a small amount of plaster. If the gaps between the sheets are more than 3 mm, seal them first with plaster, and then with tape. Cover the tape on top with putty so that you get a very sloping imperceptible elevation along the seam. After sanding and painting it will be invisible.
7. The wall is ready! Now you can cover it with plaster or do the usual finish, for example, glue the wallpaper.