How to level concrete floors under a tile. How to level the floor in the bathroom

The tile keeps within in rooms with the increased humidity. Tiles, as a material, are quite beautiful and durable. The tile is very resistant to various kinds of damage, which means the floor will last a very long time.

Ceramic tile flooring has several major advantages over any other type of flooring. This flooring is very easy to clean and clean. Spilled water, as well as any organic pollution, is easily and simply removed from the surface of the tile. Often, tiles are laid in kitchens, toilets, and bathrooms. Tiles have many more advantages. This coating also has a drawback - it is very demanding on the evenness of the base. Let's find out how to level the floor under the tiles.

To level the floor under the tiles, experts recommend making a real, full-fledged screed. Before pouring, very thorough waterproofing is necessary. Tiles can be laid only after the screed has completely hardened. The material does not like height differences, so the screed should be carefully leveled.

If you cannot decide how and with what to carry out the alignment procedure, the room itself will tell you what to use. Evaluate the humidity, elevation changes, slopes, loads, as well as the costs of finances, effort and your time - you will understand what is most suitable in a particular case.

The process of leveling a concrete floor can be done in several ways. Depending on the situation and type of room, as well as the finish, choose the appropriate technology. Today, dry screeds, traditional screeds based on wet cement mortar, as well as modern self-leveling materials are used to level floors.

Dry screed

The technology is very simple, its cost is not high. To level the concrete floor in this way, no special skills and special equipment are required. This method is popular with those who are going to equip the floors with their own hands.

This screed is called dry because, unlike the traditional method, the technology does not even provide for a gram of water. Often this screed is used to level floors for laminate, tile and other types of finishing coatings.

Dry screed laying

In order to level the floor in this way, it is necessary to carry out several operations. At the beginning, the monolithic slab must be thoroughly cleaned of dust and various debris.

When the surface is clean, a layer of waterproofing material is laid on the slab. For these purposes, it is recommended to use a thick construction polyethylene film. Its edges must be wrapped on each wall by at least 100 mm.

Then a special granular mixture is poured over the entire surface of the base and evenly distributed. The layer thickness must be at least 50 mm. Then the horizontal plane is controlled and the mixture layer is carefully compacted. For compaction, you can use a hand or electric tool. After the pillow is thoroughly compacted, a substrate is laid on the surface, on which the tiles can already be laid.

Among the advantages of this technology, excellent thermal insulation characteristics are distinguished, which are ensured through the use of a porous granular mixture.

Cement-sand screed

This is the classic way. If you think about how to level the floor under the tiles, then such a screed allows you to get a base of sufficiently high strength for any type of premises. This screed is also recommended for leveling surfaces in garages.

Before starting work, the surface is thoroughly cleaned of dust and debris. Then, after that, the base is covered with primer penetrating compounds. Next, beacons are fixed. After that, a solution of sand and cement is prepared and the screed is poured.

The solution is poured out between the beacons and, using the rule, is evenly distributed between the slats. So, filling is performed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

As you can see, this technology will not cause any difficulties. The cost of this process is not high, and the price-quality ratio is on top.

Self-levelling compounds or screed?

One of the cheapest ways to level the floor is, of course, a screed. The mixture is prepared independently. You can add various fillers to the solution, which will increase the strength. You can also purchase ready-made mixtures that just need to be diluted with water. The screed is indispensable if there are large height differences and other serious defects on the surface.

But this method, in addition to its advantages, also has significant disadvantages. So that the concrete wet screed is completely dry and gains its strength, a certain amount of time must pass - often it is about 3 weeks. Also, before laying the screed, it is necessary to lay the waterproofing, and then carefully sand the surface several times.

Modern building mixes help to level the floors very carefully, moreover, the required drying time is only 4 days. This saves you a lot of hassle, money and time. There is nothing easier than leveling the floor with these mixtures. They are ideal for tile, laminate and other demanding and capricious finishes.

What are these mixtures? These are special compounds based on polymers. By their properties and characteristics, they resemble popular self-leveling floors. The composition is very easy to spread on the floor, hardens quickly and then provides excellent surface quality and excellent adhesion for laying tiles.

Polymer blends can be divided into several categories:

• Mixtures for primary, rough processing;
• Mixtures for finishing coatings;
• Mixtures for the elimination of large defects.

Self-leveling compounds for rough processing are applied in a thin layer up to 2 cm. These tools will help get rid of small defects, waves, slopes.

Finish coatings do not have high strength characteristics, so they are applied in a thin layer to obtain a smooth and perfectly even surface. Compositions for eliminating large defects have the highest strength and have excellent adhesion to a monolithic surface.

You can buy these products in bags of 20 and 25 kg. So, for 1 sq. m. you will need one bag of the mixture. Before leveling the floor under the tiles, it is advisable to perform calculations on how much materials will be needed.

Scheme of work

The first step is to prepare the level, as well as the container in which the mixture will be kneaded. For mixing, you need to purchase a nozzle for a drill. It is desirable to have a drill on which you can adjust the speed. You will also need measuring cups or scales. From the tool you need a spatula and a needle roller.

Preparatory stage

At this stage, all furniture is removed from the room, and it is also recommended to thoroughly ventilate the room. Self-levelling agents do not like drafts, high humidity and a sharp drop in temperature.

To get a solid and even surface as a result, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the site from dust and debris. If it is not removed, then it will be impossible to talk about the surface on which it will then be possible to lay tiles.

If there are various defects in the subfloor, then they are recommended to be puttied, otherwise this will disrupt the evenness of the applied composition.

measurements

After cleaning, they begin measuring work. For this, experts recommend laser levels. They are ideal for these purposes. These devices project a mark around the entire perimeter. You do not have to conduct long calculations and take measurements with a tape measure.

It is necessary to install the device at the highest point. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the floor, and a rope is tied to them. This is done to control the zero level.

If there is no laser level, then you can use a water level, but a laser meter is best suited.

If it is necessary to obtain high strength, then a reinforcing mesh should be laid before leveling. It is necessary if the base surface needs to be raised by more than 2 cm. The reinforcing mesh will several times increase the adhesion between the concrete floor and the polymer coating.

Leveling the floor

To get the most even floors, it is necessary to prepare the mixture clearly according to the instructions. For high-quality mixing, it is ideal to use a mixer. The resulting composition is poured across the floor from the far wall to the doors.

The solution on the floor should be smoothed with a spatula, and then it is recommended to pass over the layer with a roller with needles. This will remove air bubbles that affect strength. It is very important to remember that self-levelling compounds dry very quickly. Therefore, you can level the floor only within 20 minutes. Then the composition will seize. Professionals do not recommend immediately applying the composition over the entire area.

The composition is applied in layers. The thickness of one layer can be from 5 to 20 mm. Thus, it is possible to obtain a durable surface. Thin layers will not give strength, and large ones will harden for a long time. During filling, you must constantly check the level.

After the polymer composition has dried, you can lay the tiles on a perfectly flat floor. If you did not know how to level a concrete floor, now you can do it yourself. These technologies are suitable for floors under tiles, laminate and other floor coverings.

How to level the floor and lay ceramic floor tiles with your own hands

Are you planning to tile in your bathroom or elsewhere? Worried about uneven floors, let's find out how to level the floor and lay tiles on a leveled base ...

To level the floor and lay the floor tiles, you will need the following tools and materials.
1) - Container for dilution of leveling agent and tile adhesive.
2) - Overlay spatula, wide spatula 25-30cm + notched spatula
3) - Drill with a mixer nozzle for the preparation of leveling
4) - Needle roller (when leveling a large area)
5) - Tile cutter
6) - Pliers or tongs (break off tiles when fitting)
7) - Safety glasses
8) - Roulette, square and marker (pencil)
9) - Level short and long (not less than 1 meter)
10) - Rubber spatula (for grouting)
11) - Sponge (for grouting)
12) - Grout
13) - Primer
14) - Smoother for rough leveling (if the height difference is more than 1.5 cm)
15) - Self-leveling rover
16) - Tile Adhesive
17) - Ceramic floor tiles + crosses (used to create a joint of a certain width)

First you need to determine if the floor is level. To determine the slope of the floor in a small room, a level is enough. By applying the level in different directions from the walls to the center, we find out if there is a slope.

If there is a slope and it is large enough, we need to pre-level the floor. For rough floor leveling, there are special levelers, they are called "For rough leveling"

How to determine how much floor leveler you need?
To do this, you can act according to a simple scheme, one bag of leveling agent weighs an average of 20-25 kg. According to the instructions of different manufacturers, on average one bag is enough to raise the level by 1 cm with an area of ​​1m2. In any case, we read the material consumption on the packaging and, taking into account the data obtained, we make our own calculations.

Floor preparation for leveling
Before leveling the floor, it must be cleaned of dirt and dust, after which the floor must be carefully primed and allowed to dry. The primer is best used impregnating.

floor leveling
A small volume of the floor can be leveled without the use of special metal beacons. The main thing is to know exactly where the floor has the biggest dip.

To simplify the work, you can pre-make beacons from gypsum in the form of rounded bulges aligned to the level, pouring the leveling agent you will be guided by them, trying not to pour the leveling agent more than necessary.
Smoother for rough leveling floors are best cooked in a round and tall bucket. In a bucket with the required amount of water, the dry mixture is poured in parts and stirred with an electric mixer. The solution should not be too liquid.

You need to fill from the far wall, moving towards the exit.
Using a level, the slope is checked, and with a wide spatula, the leveler is smoothed over the entire floor area.

After a layer of coarse leveling agent has been laid, it must be allowed to dry and covered with primer.
Self-levelling screed
Now it's time for a self-leveling leveler, this leveler fully lives up to its name, since when it is poured into the floor, it spreads in the direction that has a slope, due to which the base is completely leveled.

The self-levelling leveler is prepared in the same way as the coarse leveler, the only difference is that it has a more liquid and fluid consistency. When filling the floor with a self-leveling leveler, we use the same principles as with a rough one.

A spiked roller can be used to help spread the leveler over large areas, it removes air from the mortar and allows it to spread more evenly.
Self-leveling leveler dries quickly enough, in any case, the substrate must be completely dry before laying the tiles, after which it must be primed.

Laying ceramic tiles on the floor.
If you do not pursue the goal of laying out a certain type of pattern on the floor, then it is best to start laying tiles from the farthest corner.

Before using ceramic tiles, it can be soaked in water, this will increase the time of movement of the tiles when laying them.

We prepare tile adhesive in small portions, as the adhesive dries quickly in the process and becomes unusable. We apply glue with a notched trowel to the floor, so that 1-2 tiles can be laid.

If the floor is not level, or goes downhill, you can continue laying the tiles by increasing the thickness of the adhesive layer. The main thing is not to increase the thickness of the adhesive to unacceptable sizes specified in the manufacturer's instructions.

Therefore, it is necessary to check in advance using a long level whether the tile is going to increase the adhesive layer.

We put the tile on the glue, pressing a little and, as it were, screwing it in, if you need a seam, then do not forget to install crosses between the tiles, laying 2-3 tiles in a row, check their horizontal with a level.
Gradually laying row after row, we move to the exit from the room.

How to cut ceramic tiles.
A tile that is not suitable in size is cut with a tile cutter. Having made several passes along the cut line with a tile cutter, we break off the tile.

If it is necessary to remove a small part of one of the sides from an already cut piece of tile, you can use pliers or pliers, wearing protective goggles beforehand.

Grasping the edge of the tile with tongs, chip off piece by piece along the entire length.
You can cut a corner fragment in a tile using a grinder with a stone disk, for this you need to make a cut on one side, and make a notch on the other with a tile cutter, after which the fragment easily breaks off.

Remove adhesive residue from tiles and joints in a timely manner
When laying the tiles, make sure that the seams and the tile itself are clean, try not to leave excess glue on the tile, and even more so in the seams, if there is excess glue, remove them.

The seam can be cleaned with a spatula using a cloth or sponge. Remove the glue before it dries.
After laying the entire tile, the glue must be given time to dry, for this we look at the instructions on the packaging of the tile adhesive. And only after the glue has dried, you can start grouting the seams, followed by their grouting.

Jointing and grouting
After laying the tiles on the glue, no matter how carefully you work, the glue can still appear somewhere in the seams, in order for the grout to lay evenly and the seams to be beautiful and even, it is necessary to grout the seams.

You can make the stitching with the help of an overlay spatula.
Having cleaned the seams of crosses, excess glue and debris, you can start grouting the seams.
Having diluted the dry grout with water, we get a paste-like mass, pouring part of the mass onto the floor, using a rubber spatula we disperse the grout at the seams.

The movement of the spatula in relation to the seam should be made obliquely. Having processed the entire floor (if it is not a very large area), let the grout dry a little, after which we wash off the excess grout from the tile with a damp, carefully wrung out sponge and draw it along the seam, the seam should not be recessed and protruding.

The sponge must be constantly rinsed, for this it is advisable to have a bucket of water with you. After washing the entire tile with a sponge in this way, let the grout dry completely, after which the tile can be finally washed.

Nickname:

Nickname:

Getting a mortgage, where to start?

Any overhaul begins with leveling the floor and walls, because in Russian apartments, especially in the secondary real estate market, uneven surfaces are, unfortunately, a common occurrence. It is especially important to prepare the perfect floor before laying tiles: tile or porcelain stoneware - in bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens and hallways. Often, for this it is necessary to completely dismantle the old coating and screed.

The cheapest way to make the floor even is to re-create the concrete screed. The building mixture can be prepared independently from sand, cement and water. Additives like expanded clay or lime glass increase the strength of the structure. In addition, there are ready-made dry mixes for various purposes on sale, which are enough to dilute with water in the right proportions and immediately start laying. A concrete screed is indispensable if you want to level a surface with a large slope, pits and blisters.

However, it takes from one to three weeks for the concrete coating to dry completely. In addition, when choosing this method of floor screed, you will have to take care of waterproofing and subsequent surface grinding.

Modern developments allow you to reduce the drying time of the coating to three or four days, as well as save you from unnecessary trouble and additional time spent on finishing the floor. This opportunity is provided self-levelling compounds. This is a special polymer composition that is easily distributed over the surface, quickly hardens on it and provides perfect adhesion to the monolith.

Blends fall into three categories:

• compositions for rough processing, which are applied in a layer of up to 2 cm to get rid of coating defects, slope and "waves" on the floor;
• top coats that are not very durable and therefore applied in a thin layer for the best effect - a perfectly even and smooth surface;
• special mixtures to eliminate significant flaws: large cracks, bare reinforcement. Such compounds give great strength and high adhesion.

Self-levelling compounds are sold in packages of 20 and 25 kg. To lift 1 m² per centimeter, you need one such bag. Thus, you can roughly calculate how much material you will need to carry out repairs. More detailed information is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, so do not be too lazy to study it before starting the repair.

For construction and repair work, you will need a level, a container for preparing a leveling mixture, a drill with a nozzle and the ability to set low speeds, measuring bowls or household scales, suitable spatulas (30 cm wide spatulas with a long handle are best), a metal mesh for reinforcement, dry mix in the right amount.

It will not be superfluous to purchase a spiked roller: it will allow you to get rid of air bubbles that reduce the strength of the future structure. Also, special needle soles will not interfere, which will allow you to move around the room without carrying construction debris.

Preparatory work for leveling the floor

First you need to prepare the room for repair: take out the furniture, dismantle the plumbing. You should also ventilate the room in advance, since during the construction process you will not have such an opportunity: when leveling the floor, in no case should drafts, high humidity and temperature drops below + 5 degrees be allowed. After airing, close the windows and hang a damp sheet on the door to prevent dust from spreading throughout the apartment.

To ensure that the new floor covering is as durable and reliable as possible, It's important to take the time to clean up. Carefully remove everything that may interfere with the floor screed: dust, debris, remnants of the previous coating, paint and oil stains. By neglecting this step, you run the risk of making the new floor as uneven as the old one. Vacuum properly and pay special attention to the corners of the room.

If there are chips, cracks, voids, potholes or other defects in the monolithic base, they must be puttied before starting work, and then the excess of dried putty should be removed with sandpaper.

You can easily find a suitable putty at any hardware store. Ideally, it is desirable to prepare and apply a primer mix, also referred to as a "primer". It acts as a base and impregnation, and also improves adhesion to the leveling compound. Due to the special composition of the primer, the leveling solution will dry faster and more evenly. Spread it evenly with a wide spatula and let dry. Prevent the formation of puddles by spreading the thick mass on the floor in a timely manner.

After the room has been cleaned and the flaws carefully covered up, you can start measuring. It is best to use a laser level: this device projects a height mark around the entire perimeter of the room, so you do not have to do long calculations and crawl on the floor with a tape measure. It is enough to install the device at the highest point in the room, and then screw the self-tapping screws into the floor at the desired height in increments of 20-30 cm and tie an ordinary rope between them to always see the zero mark.

In the absence of a laser level, a less technologically advanced water level is also suitable, but in this case it is advisable to purchase a long meter, at least 1 meter.

If you want to make the floor stronger, do not forget to lay a metal mesh. It is placed overlapping on the floor, and the pieces are interconnected by wire. The mesh is needed when it is required to raise the level by more than 2 cm. It enhances the adhesion between the monolith and the future floor covering. To correct minor defects, you can do without it.

When all the preparatory work is completed, you can proceed directly. Prepare the self-levelling compound according to package directions. For best results, carefully follow the proportions indicated by the manufacturer. Too liquid mixture will take longer to dry and will not provide the desired strength. If, on the contrary, there is less water than necessary, all the work of leveling the floor under the tiles will go down the drain: the mixture will fall in lumps, and the surface will have to be leveled again.

To mix the composition well, use a mixer nozzle and a drill at low speed or a concrete mixer, if you have such an opportunity. It is undesirable to cook the entire mixture at once, as it hardens rather quickly. It is better to mix in small portions - for one or two rows.

The resulting mixture must be spread over the floor, starting from the far wall in parallel and gradually moving towards the door. Smooth the solution with a spatula, and then roll with a spiked roller to prevent the formation of air bubbles inside the composition.

Please note that the mixture begins to set within 10-20 minutes after pouring, so be quick and do not be distracted from work. It is also advisable not to cover the entire room with the solution at once, but to distribute it gradually in order to better smooth and form a flat floor. Of course, you can work in pairs or hire a team of specialists who will do everything you need much faster.

If you are working on your own, try to pour in the new strip before the previous one dries, so that the surface is even and seamless. You can also try pouring the leveling agent in indented strips. As the mixture spreads, the gaps will be filled with excess, and there will be no seams on the floor.

The composition must be applied in a layer of 5 to 20 mm, so that the resulting surface is strong enough and dries quickly. If you use a thinner layer, the floor will be fragile and unreliable, and large volumes of mortar will stretch the repair indefinitely, as the composition will harden too long and unevenly. In the process, do not forget to check the level so as not to deviate from the zero mark.

After application, the mixture will harden within a day and dry completely in 3-4 days, provided that you have not violated the temperature regime in the room. More detailed information about the properties of the composition is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. When the self-levelling compound dries, you can begin to decorate the floor with tiles.

From the author: hello to everyone who learns to make repairs! The second building education, of course, is not superfluous, but to be an absolute ace in all the professions needed by mankind is simply unrealistic, agree? Now, thanks to express courses and the availability of information on the Internet, you can independently perform any complex repair work, even level the floor for tiles. We have prepared step-by-step instructions and tips for those who have just decided to devote themselves to a time-consuming process and seek to learn the secrets of an ideal floor surface.

One of the most common flaws in old buildings and new buildings is the uneven surfaces of walls and floors. If your plans are to make repairs once and there is no desire to extend the “torture by construction work” to your household and neighbors, then you should carefully prepare for the process of leveling the surfaces being repaired.

All work can be done by hand. At certain stages of the work, you may need help, but any family member who can courageously and calmly follow all your recommendations will cope with this.

There are two main types of preparatory work:

• dismantling the old coating or uneven floor;
• using a leveling screed.

Now we will consider how to make facing work not only aesthetic, but also durable.

Source: http://edikst.ru

Preparation for laying tiles begins with a clear understanding of the overall scope of work and an assessment of the condition of the existing surface. If you have plans to prepare a wooden floor, then you should evaluate the quality of the wooden coating and provide for antibacterial and antifungal treatment of boards and logs.

The next step - along the entire perimeter of the walls of the selected room, you need to make a mark of the "finishing level" - after all the work with a leveled surface, you will have to go to the line you designated. Depending on what difference will be between the level of the "rough" floor and the "finishing" floor, we will choose the leveling method.

1. The "rough" line is 2–5 cm lower than the "finish" line, the floor surface is uneven:
2. The “rough” line below the “finish” line by more than 5 cm provides for the only rational method - backfilling or raising the floor level with additional means.

Raising the floor level with additional means

How to work with concrete floor? First of all, it is cleaned of debris. The surface is moistened and a rough seal is made with a cement-sand mortar of the identified potholes and cracks.

If you are going to lay tiles in the bathroom, you need to give a day for full hardening. After that, we lay waterproofing - two layers of technical cellophane, making an overlap on the walls of about 20 cm. Cellophane strips are connected with adhesive tape. Now you can start raising the level of the "rough" floor, using:

5–7 cm of expanded clay / brick chips are poured onto cellophane and leveled. The backfill will serve as an excellent heat-insulating and waterproofing layer, it is necessary to lay a double layer of cellophane on it again to consolidate the effect;

Source: http://zoneplitki.ru

It is important not to make a mistake and not to buy a self-leveling floor - it is intended for decorative finishing work. A feature of the self-leveling mortar is that in a larger layer of application to the surface, it can reach 10–15 cm.

Please note that fast-hardening self-leveling mortar and cellophane waterproofing must be done under the mortar on the “rough” floor. A day after hardening, we prime again and apply a second “rough” layer of 5-6 mm, which will hide small bumps and drops.

Important: when the screed hardens, drafts are unacceptable. During the week, you need to moisten the surface without stepping on it!

• final alignment.

On a raised floor, using a laser level or a level, we determine the level of finishing alignment. The spiked roller will help remove air bubbles. Two weeks of waiting, and you can lay the tiles.

Important: after a week, you can put a board on the floor and walk around the room.

Dry screed for tiles

For dry rooms (kitchen, toilet) can be used, for the bathroom this option is undesirable:

• CSP (cement particle board);
• waterproof plywood.

Leveling without screed

In what cases can and should I choose the alignment option without a screed? This question arises if:

1. Low ceiling height.
2. It is categorically impossible to exceed the permissible norms of the load on the floor.
3. The unevenness of the floor is negligible.

Experts offer several ways to repair the floor without pouring concrete screed:

1. Scraping a wooden floor.
2. using a mixture of PVA glue and wood shavings.
3. The system of lags from wooden boards and beams. A laborious process that requires care and precision. Strips of plywood with a thickness of 12 mm or more are fixed to the structure for maximum floor strength.

You will avoid difficulties by getting acquainted with a practical video on the topic under consideration:

We are sure that unjustified expenses and additional expenses for correcting errors are not included in the family budget!

How to level the floor in the bathroom is one of the questions that often arises when carrying out a comprehensive renovation of a house or apartment. After the dismantling of the old floor, it turns out that the base is uneven.

Regardless of which flooring will be laid, leveling should be carried out. The service life of the new coating depends on its quality.

This remark largely applies to tiles. The bathroom is always characterized by high humidity, which leads to the mandatory use of waterproofing compounds during the operation.

Where to begin?

Start by removing the old floor

The technology is pretty simple. In practice, you can involve a specialist or, following the instructions, do the leveling of the floor in the bathroom with your own hands.

The latter will require some knowledge, skills and abilities.

Initially follows:

• to dismantle the old floor;
• choose a new cover;
• determine the degree of curvature of the draft base (screed);
• calculate the thickness of the leveling layer, which will allow you to purchase the leveling material in the right amount;
• perform waterproofing.

Clear the floor of construction debris

The old coating is removed with a puncher, hammer, crowbar to the screed.

If it crumbles or is strewn with cracks, then it is better to get to the concrete floor.

On it, the fallen off parts and bumpy areas should be removed (leveled to the maximum). Then take out the trash.

Additionally, it is possible to treat the cleaned surface with concrete contact (priming material). This will increase the adhesion of the base to the leveling layer.

Tiles are ideal for bathroom floors

The most common flooring options include: tiles, laminate (with increased moisture-resistant characteristics), linoleum, bulk polymer compositions. It is possible to use a tree pre-treated with special means.

A large selection of them (from different manufacturers) is provided by hardware stores. Each of the proposed materials gives the bathroom a unique look.

Using the normal level will show all the bumps. To calculate the future height of the leveled floor, it is necessary to determine the highest point of the base and add at least 3 cm to it (this takes into account the height of the lighthouse).

The floor in the bathroom is leveled in the same way as in other rooms, but taking into account waterproofing.

What materials to use?

After preliminary preparation, the leveling stage begins. In this case, it is possible to use several types of materials (separation by properties): bulk (self-leveling) and leveling. Construction supermarkets give a large selection of them. They are sold in waterproof bags.

Bulk compositions spread over the floor, filling all cracks and irregularities, forming a smooth surface

For practical use, bulk compositions are better, which greatly simplify the work. They fill the cracks themselves, spreading evenly over the floor. Are issued for draft and finishing finishing.

The first option is used to create a leveled base (with minor irregularities), on which the finishing solution is then adjusted.

The lighthouses are leveled with a leveling solution. Its base is cement.

Each package with the material contains instructions for preparation, according to which the contents of the bag are poured into a container proportionally filled with water.

Everything is mixed manually or with a mixer until the desired consistency is obtained.

If, after opening the bag, it turns out that the material is of inadequate quality (hardened, wet), then it cannot be used.

The simplest and cheapest way to create a screed is to use a mixture of cement and sand, but this option is very labor intensive.

Screed waterproofing

Treat the floor with a waterproofing compound, entering the walls

Leveling work begins with waterproofing.

For this, rolled, penetrating, coating waterproofing compounds are used.

Not only the floor is processed, but also walls in height up to 15 cm from it. Usually processing occurs in two layers.

Leveling with expanded clay

Expanded clay can level the base without a significant increase in the load on the supports

With significant irregularities of the base (the slope of the plane is more than 3 cm), expanded clay is used to create a screed layer. This option, almost without increasing the load on the floor, allows you to raise the level of the surface.

But the method is used infrequently, because significant differences in height are rare in bathrooms. Stages of the process of leveling the floor in the bathroom with expanded clay:

• according to the level, we install guides;
• we fill the gap between them with expanded clay (3 cm below the top of the lighthouses);
• it is possible to lay a mesh reinforcing the floor, treat it with an adhesive solution;
• pour the prepared solution, level with the rule;
• cover with a film, periodically moisten with water, wait for drying (up to 3 days). For more information on how to make a screed on expanded clay, see this video:

The use of self-leveling compounds

When in the bathroom the height fluctuations in relation to the base are not more than 3 cm, then it is advisable to use bulk mixtures.

This rule applies both when leveling the floor in the bathroom and in other rooms. When choosing, preference is given to mixtures with a high level of moisture resistance.

The process looks like this:

• the level is beaten off along the contour of the room;
• the solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions in liquid form;
• evenly poured onto the floor (for quick spreading, leveling is done with a spatula);
• if the room is large, then it is better to work in pairs;
• air bubbles formed during pouring are removed with a spiked roller;
• you can walk on the solution only in special shoes;
• drying time up to 7 days. For more information on the use of these mixtures, see this video:

Beacon Alignment Process

Use a metal profile for mounting beacons

Beacons are used when using cement mortars.

They often level the floor in the bathroom under the tile. The most widespread are U-shaped and T-shaped types of lighthouses.

The process of installing beacons and pouring the screed is as follows:

• there is a zero level (using building, water, laser levels);
• it is transferred 3 cm up;
• all beacons are set on it, which are attached to the solution (quickly hardens);
• to prepare the solution, you can purchase ready-made mixtures, mix cement with sand (1: 3) yourself;
• add water to the mixture until the desired consistency is obtained;
• pour the prepared composition between the beacons and level with the rule;
• after filling, cover the screed and moisten with water from time to time;
• additional waterproofing and installation of the coating - when completely dry.

Using the methods listed above, you can level the floor in the bathroom under a tile or any other coating.

Step by step, all the work can be represented in a table.

A high-quality screed using the above methods is obtained subject to certain conditions:

• room air temperature - 5-25 degrees;
• humidity - less than 90%;
• during the work there should be no drafts.