Potassium permanganate for plant health is reliable and irreplaceable. How to plant beans in open ground

The cultivation of green beans in summer cottages is becoming widespread. Not so long ago this useful product raised only large farms. You can buy green pods without problems - in fresh, in the vegetable departments of supermarkets, or frozen, in the refrigerators of all stores, mainly an imported product. Meanwhile, growing this "green miracle" in the country is not difficult. The most important thing in growing green beans, unlike other legumes, is to harvest the crop on time. Do not overexpose the pods in the garden, making them tough and tasteless.

Beans are not unreasonably considered by biologists to be the oldest cultivated plant on the planet. There are officially three botanical types of beans.

  1. Shelling, from which beans are obtained, is characterized by a dense parchment shell.
  2. Semi-sugar - this type has a parchment shell of medium hardness.
  3. Sugar, it is also asparagus, in which there is no parchment shell at all, but there is green, juicy and soft.

In garden culture, it is customary to call the latter type of green beans, which are eaten along with the pods. In contrast to shelling varieties, the pods of which are not suitable for food.

Another two types can be divided into beans according to the method of growth.

  1. Curly.
  2. Bush.

When growing all types of beans, the basic agrotechnical standards are observed, which include the following points.

  1. Beans do not tolerate sandy, acidic and too heavy soils.
  2. He loves light, humidity, heat, drought is difficult to tolerate. If the dry period falls at the time of flowering, the ovary may fall off, and there will be no harvest.
  3. Beans do not like drafts and winds. The plant must be grown in calm.
  4. Sowing is carried out not earlier than the soil warms up to + 13 ° C (May - June).
  5. Sowing is preceded by the procedure of warming and soaking the seeds.
  6. The seeds of the plant are buried no more than seven centimeters.
  7. Shoots of all varieties need to be loosened and preferably mulched.
  8. When the stem grows by 15 centimeters, the plants need to be hilled.
  9. For climbing varieties it is necessary to provide support immediately upon landing.

By the way!Not all varieties have classic green pods. Some fruits are whitish, yellowish and even bright yellow, purple. Therefore, when collecting, it is better not to focus on the color of the fruit, but on the period of expected milky ripeness, which is indicated on the package with seeds.

cultivation

String beans are thermophilic, but not too much. This is not an exotic member of the African flora, which must be reverently grown from seedlings and planted only when the last possible frost threat has passed. Beans, along with other garden crops, can be safely sown in the spring directly on the ridges, subjecting the beans to pre-sowing treatment.

How to handle beans before sowing

Bean seeds need to be warmed up. And it is best to do it naturally, not on a battery, but in the sun. In industrial agricultural technology, they are heated in special dryers, where the temperature is maintained at + 30 ° С ... 35 ° С. The process takes two days. An acceptable option for summer residents is warming up by the sun. To do this, the seeds must be placed on the southern windowsill and kept there for at least a week. After that, the beans must be soaked. A day spent by the seeds in warm clean water (change the water four times) will be enough.

How to prepare a bed for beans

The soil needs a normal alkaline reaction, in any case, not acidic. Wood ash or dolomite flour will help remove acidity. If you are not sure about the acidity parameters of the soil on the site, add ash to the hole anyway, it will help the plant develop better.

Sandstones and heavy clay soils are not suitable. It is best if the soil is light, fertile, moderately drained.

An important parameter for green beans, especially climbing varieties, is the absence of wind. The site should be chosen not only heated, but also protected from the winds. It is better to place the plants in partial shade than in a draft.

Before sowing beans, be sure to rid the bed and the paths surrounding it from weeds. Excellent predecessors for the culture will be tomatoes, potatoes and different types cabbage.

Do I need to remind you that the site intended for growing beans needs to be dug up and filled with fertilizers since autumn. Necessarily organic - traditional 6 kg per square meter, superphosphate - 35 g, potassium chloride - 20 g.

In the spring, it is also necessary to add a complex that has a high content of potassium - this element of green beans is needed more than all other garden plants.

Sowing seeds

The seeds are prepared, the ridge is waiting for new "residents". Starting sowing, it is necessary to decide on what scheme to carry it out.

By the way!The sowing depth of bean seeds depends on the density of the soil. If the mechanical composition is light - you can deepen. If heavy - sow as close to the surface as possible. But in all cases, the range of sowing depth of beans is 2-7 cm.

Bush varieties are sown in rows (two, three) or in a checkerboard pattern. Holes of a given depth are made. Two beans are placed in each hole. Between the holes, try to keep a distance of about 25 cm, and between rows: two - 45 cm, three - 35 cm.

Curly varieties are sown differently. By the way, there are also semi-curly varieties. Their sowing is carried out in the same way as climbing ones. Before sowing, strong supports are installed on the prepared and processed ridge. They can be of any design and from any improvised materials. You can bend strong wire into arcs, put U-shaped or X-shaped stakes, pipes, plastic slats. A mesh frame stretched over the frame is also suitable. The main thing is that the lashes of the plant have something to cling to.

Holes are made in close proximity to support pillars. It is along them that the beans will climb up, towards the light and good harvest. The distance between the holes here can be reduced - 20 cm is enough.

Video - Support - pyramid for beans

Video - How to make a support for beans

Shoots and care

Beans sprout, despite the hard shell and the impressive size of the seed, not for long. A strong sprout crawls out of the soil already on the sixth day after sowing. The main thing is the right temperature. For successful shoots in the daytime, it should be about + 20 ° C.

Young sprouts are sensitive to night cold. That is why, at the slightest threat of a minus on the soil, they must be covered with a spunbond for the night. And on the eighth - tenth day, all shoots must be spudded.

Then, after the plants have reached a fifteen-centimeter growth mark, they must be re-hilled. And repeat the procedure throughout the season several times, as the soil settles after watering.

Advice!As soon as the lashes of climbing beans grow to a length of two meters, their tips must be pinched. This will increase fertility.

String beans of mid-season varieties, with proper care, will start mass flowering on the fortieth day from the day of germination. It will take another three weeks for the formation of full-fledged ovaries. And after that - attention! The collection of green bean pods begins ten days after the formation of the ovaries. If you miss this moment and overexpose the pods on the lashes for at least a week, their taste will deteriorate significantly.

fertilizers

In addition to preliminary autumn and spring soil dressing, green beans will need additional top dressing. At least twice more during the growing season, you will have to feed the crop - when entering the budding phase, and at the beginning of the fruiting phase.

Fertilizer - superphosphate mixed with wood ash (15/
50 g per square meter). If available, you can add a complex high in molybdenum, boron and manganese to the top dressing. If there is no special fertilizer containing these three trace elements, ordinary potassium permanganate will help get out of the situation. Water the plants over the leaves and into the hole with a medium pink solution.

watering

For string beans, moisture is important, especially climbing varieties suffer from a lack of watering. But it is necessary to water intensively and often beans only during the period of forcing lashes and budding. As soon as the ovary begins to form, watering should be done less frequently, but more abundantly, and the soil around the bushes should be mulched.

Advice!For watering green beans, gardeners with experience use one secret - weeds are placed in a large barrel standing in the sun (any weeds after weeding the garden can be slightly crushed beforehand) and poured to the top with water. The infusion should stand for seven days. It needs to be stirred from time to time. A week later, a liter of ready-made nutritious herbal infusion is diluted in ten liters of water and the beans are watered. She responds to such moisture with fleshy pods and healthy, powerful stems.

Important moments of harvest

  1. In an early variety, the crop begins to be harvested on the 50th day after the first sprouts hatch from the soil.
  2. In mid-season - on the 70th day.
  3. In late-ripening - on the 100th.

You need to pluck the pods in a state of milky ripeness. It is characterized by the following features:

  • the pods are not hard, they bend rather than break;
  • pod length from 10 to 20 cm (depending on the variety);
  • inside the pod is a green bean, the size of a grain of wheat.

  1. Harvesting is carried out in stages, every two days.
  2. Those pods that you did not remove in a timely manner, leave on the seeds, and henceforth check the lashes more carefully.
  3. Removing the pods stimulates fruiting. This means that the more beans you harvest, the more they will grow.
  4. Collection can continue until frost.
  5. Harvest per square meter of planting of green beans - two kilograms.

Video - How to grow beans on the site

Description of varieties of green beans

There are many varieties of string beans. Some of them did not take root in summer cottages, for various reasons. Others, on the contrary, have gained popularity, their amateur gardeners warmly recommend to each other. Consider the most popular.

Varieties of string beans

NameDescription
One of the earliest, fifty-day variety. Bushy and low - up to forty cm. Compact, does not take up much space on the ridge. Emerald green pods, no fibers in them, length - 12 cm, curved shape. The taste is excellent, fresh and sweet.
Also fast paced. Curly. One whip forms up to nine pods. Their length is 13 cm. The color is bright green. The shape is straight, the surface is smooth. The variety does not have a high sugar content, but the pods are fleshy and juicy.
Named so, probably, for the arched, strongly curved shape of the pod, which reminded breeders of deer antlers. A bush variety with pods of the color of mature hard cheese. The grains are white inside. Mid-season. Very tasty and nutritious fruits. It is said that by growing this variety, two crop cycles can be harvested per season.
Bushy compact mid-season variety. Grows up to half a meter. It has a super high yield. The fruits of this variety are herbaceous-green. They do not have fibers. Especially good for freezing and preservation, but fresh, of course, are also used.
Also bushy and too high yielding variety. Ripening time is average. But the fruits are not green, but bright yellow. Beans are white. Taste is very high.
A climbing variety with many features, but the main one is a pronounced aroma. forest mushrooms. The pods are pale green, even whitish. And the beans inside are a pinkish hue. Dishes prepared from this variety retain their mushroom aroma and have an unusually good taste.
Early maturing, fibrous, climbing variety with delicate fruits in a traditional green color. This variety is distinguished for its disease resistance and high yield.
This green bean also curls and is late ripening. Her pods are simply huge - they can grow up to 30 cm. The color and taste are traditional. Productivity is high, due to the doubled mass of long fruits.
Bush variety, with fruits purple. Pods about 15 cm, very decorative. Due to the unusual color, they are very actively used in canning.
Fruits are formed on a bush. Early - fifty days. The color of the pod is rich yellow. The taste is delicate, soft, slightly oily. There are no fibers. Yields are high.
Mid-season climbing variety, characterized by twenty-centimeter pods, sparse leaves and lashes up to three meters long. The shape of the pod is straight, the color is dull green. High yield.

Something about siderative properties

String beans, like any legume, is an the best green manure, which nature came up with to increase the productivity of your site in an inexpensive and simple methods. Its roots "pull" closer to themselves nitrogen from the soil. They can feed not only the plant itself, but also nearby ones. Therefore, many other crops can be sown in the bean aisle. In the center between the rows, you can plant pumpkins, melons, zucchini, cucumbers. Along the edges of the ridge will feel good: pepper, eggplant, white and red cabbage.

And after the crop is harvested, collect the whips from the supports, or mow the bushes, chop them and bury them in the soil right on the bean bed. Next year, you will have a fertile, high-nitrogen site ready for new gardening experiments.

" Beans

Beans are in the top ten most healthy vegetables, therefore, when choosing crops for growing in her garden, she always has a place. To be rewarded for the time and money spent bountiful harvest, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of agricultural technology, planting and care for cultivation in open field.

Bean planting is planned for May month. You should be guided by the weather conditions and the correct temperature regime in the soil, which is indicated by indicators 12-15 degrees(at a depth of up to 10 cm). According to the folk calendar, this period coincides with the flowering of chestnuts.

The first to be planted are erect varieties, and after a week you can take on curly varieties. Bush type of legumes plan to plant at the beginning of July. This can be done on beds from which early ripe vegetables have already been harvested.

Experienced gardeners carry out planting work in several stages: from mid-May to early July with an interval of at least 10 days.


Are beans susceptible to frost?

Beans are a heat-loving crop, so planting is best done in the spring. in the second half of May when the danger of frost has passed. Young shoots are even afraid of cold winds, which is why many gardeners find its place under apple trees or along the fence.

The minimum temperature that bean seedlings can withstand does not exceed the mark -3-4 degrees. If the frosts were short, the beans will survive, but their development will be slowed down and yields will be reduced.

Agrotextiles or film, which are used for construction, will help to change the situation. temporary shelter.

The most popular varieties for planting

Varietal diversity complicates the choice. If there are difficulties in determining the range, it is recommended to give preference to proven varieties that are adapted to the climate and weather conditions of the region.

The best varieties for the Moscow region, Ukraine and Belarus


Plant mid-early ripening period, from sowing to harvesting 100 days. The bush is formed in a height of only 25 cm, the fruits have a parchment layer, but very thin. The culture is unpretentious, resistant to humid environment and drought.

Nomad

climbing variety mid-early maturation. The egg-shaped bean has an ocher color with a pale purple pattern. The fruit is without a parchment layer and fibers, which makes the structure tender and soft. The plant is tolerant to anthracnose, gray rot.

For the Urals and the middle lane

Oran

She R - early ripe mature beans 80-90 days, recommended for planting in a country house in central Russia. The height of the bushes is from 35 to 56 cm, the fruits are distinguished by high taste.

Productivity from 1 m2 within 200 grams.


Harvest starts in 65-85 days after seed germination. The climbing bush reaches a height of up to 3 m, so it needs support.

Marble pink beans do not contain parchment layer and fibers, which gives them a delicate texture. Purple stains and strokes are visible on the fruits. The application is universal, in any form, the beans retain a unique taste.

For Siberia


Culture is different high yield and nutritional qualities of fruits. The length of the pods is about 30 cm, the beans are large. Cold resistance and strong immunity make it possible to cultivate and grow a plant in Siberia.

Feature: lashes with beautiful fiery red flowers can be used as an ornamental hedge.


Bush type of beans with a ripening period 1.5 months. Delicate and pleasant taste of tubular fruits will not leave indifferent any gourmet. The length of the pod is about 25 cm. The use of the crop is universal: dry harvesting, freezing, canning.

Planting rules and agrotechnics for growing in the open field

Seed preparation

To get quick shoots and protect young shoots from diseases, seeds should be prepared before planting.

Do a soak first in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for about 20 minutes. After the procedure, the beans are washed clean water and again you need to soak in infusion from wood ash for 2 hours.

At night before sowing, pea beans are wrapped in a damp cloth for sprouting at home. And 5 minutes before sowing into the soil, they are lowered into the solution boric acid. This will protect the plant from diseases and pests.

Soil preparation and site selection

For planting a crop is selected well lit place, but without drafts and strong wind blowing, planting through seedlings is practically not used. The type of soil does not play a big role, but experienced gardeners have noted that beans develop worst of all, can germinate poorly and bear fruit on clay soils. This is due to the poor permeability of moisture, due to which the seeds and roots rot.

In general, the preparatory process for the formation of the beds consists in digging the soil to the depth of a shovel bayonet. At the same time, fertilizers are introduced: 4 kg of humus or compost are added per 1 m2, 2 tbsp. l. dolomite flour, 1 tbsp. l. ammonium nitrate and 2 tbsp. l. superphosphate.


Another option for enriching the soil with nutrients involves the use of ½ compost (humus), 30 gr. superphosphate, 20 gr. wood ash per 1 m2.

When determining a place for planting beans, those crops that were grown on it last season are taken into account.

Ideal predecessors are: potatoes, carrots, tomatoes, cucumber, peppers, eggplant.

Scheme and planting depth

Bush varieties of culture are planted according to the scheme:

  • depth of laying seeds - somewhere 5-6 cm;
  • distance between holes in a row - 20-25 cm;
  • aisle - 40 cm.

Curly varieties are planted a little differently:

  • seed placement depth 5-6 cm;
  • interval between holes in a row - 25-30 cm;
  • aisle - 45-50 cm.

5-6 seeds are immersed in each well. After the formation of one leaflet on shoots, only 3 seedlings should be left, the rest should be removed or carefully transplanted.

According to lunar calendar for 2018 planting beans is recommended:

  • March - 20-23 numbers;
  • April - 6-9, 19, 20, 23-26;
  • May - 7-10, 19-24 numbers;
  • June - 4-7 numbers.

Post disembarkation care

Unpretentious beans do not require much attention, but they still need the basic rules of agricultural technology.

Sprouting bean seeds

Bean seeds start to germinate later 7-10 days after landing. If the air and soil temperatures are below the recommended values, then the first shoots will germinate after 5-7 days.

You can speed up the germination process if you soak the seed in growth promoters Houses. It also contributes to the shelter of the beds with a film.

Young shoots must be spudded to give them stability.

Rules and conditions for watering

The plant loves water, so you should not violate the watering regime. It is especially important to moisten the soil during the formation of pods.

The rate of water per bush is determined by eye, procedures should be carried out 1 time per week The main thing is not to let the soil dry out. most best liquid rainfall is considered for irrigation. Experienced gardeners use settled water, the temperature of which not lower than 18 degrees.


What top dressing to use in the garden

The culture is responsive to fertilizers. After preparing the soil for planting, you will need to make at least 3 dressings.

The first procedure is performed 3-4 weeks after germination. Ideal to take advantage complex fertilizer rich in nitrogen and phosphorus. Superphosphate is also suitable at the rate of 30-40 grams per 1 m2.

After 3 weeks, you need to feed a second time, this is necessary for the formation of fruits (10-15 grams of potassium salt per 1 m2). The third time the nutrients are administered after 3 weeks.

You should not overdo it with fertilizers, you can provoke the growth of tops and reduce the ovaries of the pods.

Pests and prevention

Beans are one of the few crops that not attacked by pests. Only slugs may appear.

Harvest time depends on varieties and types culture. Asparagus beans should not be overexposed in the beds; when dried, the product loses its value.

If it is planned to preserve the legume crop, then any unripe fruits can be used. But for winter preparations, it is better to wait for the pods to dry. The main thing is not to be late, so as not to collect the beans from the ground later.

You should not pick all the pods at the same time in one day, if among them there are completely dry and greenish ones. In the shadow of their own tops, some ovaries could develop weaker, it is better to leave them to ripen.

To quickly extract the beans from their "houses" it is not at all necessary to sort through each manually. The stick will do the job, which you can knock out the harvested crop.

To do this, exclusively dried pods are laid out on the bedspread, along which you need to walk with a simple tool with moderate effort. It remains only to remove the dry part from the beans. The selected beans are still being dried and only after sorting are sent for storage.

Bean farming is simple; even a novice gardener can sow and grow it in the Moscow region, Ukraine, the Urals or Belarus. By performing all the procedures in a timely manner, preparations for the winter are provided with an incredibly useful and nutritious product, which also diversifies the menu.

Beans play an important role for humanity, planting and caring for an unpretentious plant in the open field is a great opportunity to stock up on high-calorie foods that are not inferior in value meat delicacies. Growing this crop is a rewarding activity, while getting tasty beans, you simultaneously saturate the garden with nitrogen compounds.

Almost all legumes love light and fertile soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. On lands with a high percentage of clay and shallow groundwater, these plants grow poorly. Poor soils are fertilized with nitrogen-potassium-phosphorus preparations, but in this case it is advisable to exercise caution. Excess nitrogen leads to the growth of green mass to the detriment of the crop. Beginners are wondering whether it is necessary to soak the beans before planting, which beans are not suitable for sowing, so we list the main stages of preparatory work.

Preparing beans for planting:

  1. For sowing, beans damaged by grinders, seeds that are non-standard for this variety, and material that looks sick are not suitable.
  2. By soaking the beans before planting and leaving in the open field, we greatly accelerate the moment of emergence of sprouts. The beans are placed in melt water for one night (up to 15 hours).
  3. On the eve of sowing, beans can be treated with micronutrient fertilizers and boric acid. We take 2 g of ammonium molybdate and 2 g of boric acid, dissolve them in a bucket of water and heat the liquid to a temperature of 40 ° C. We immerse the seeds in the resulting preparation for 5 minutes on the eve of planting. What is good about beans prepared in this composition is that planting and caring for treated beans in the open field helps against pests and increases the survival rate of sprouts.

Planting beans in open ground

The varieties of this crop are divided into climbing and bush, depending on this, planting beans in the spring in open ground and caring for the plant may differ slightly. Bush forms grow up to 0.4-0.6 m tall. They are suitable for mechanized cultivation, unpretentious. Curly varieties resemble grapes in terms of growth strength, their lashes grow more than 2 m and require garters on a trellis. Vigna beans have enormous fruits; pods up to 50 cm long grow on its 5-meter bushes.

In the case of how to plant beans in open ground with seeds, you need to take into account low frost resistance this plant. Sprouts appear on the fifth day and small frosts can destroy the fruits of painstaking work. Optimum temperature for growth - from 20°C to 25°C. What has a bad effect on the beans is planting and care in the open field in cold weather conditions, with the threat of a cold snap, it is advisable to cover the tender shoots with agrofiber. Immediately after the seeds are planted in the bed, the soil is compacted with heavy garden rollers to retain moisture and improve germination.


This method is used in the northern regions and for growing late varieties, proper fit beans seedling way helps to get early harvests culture. Sowing is carried out with beans swollen after soaking in pots 30 days before the planned moment of planting plants in open ground. At the time of germination, the seedlings are kept in greenhouses at 23-25°C, before planting on the beds, the temperature is reduced to 16°C. We transfer rooted sprouts to open ground after the onset of stable heat, placing them in the soil 3 cm lower than they were in pots.


When listing the basic rules for planting beans, one cannot miss such an important factor as the depth of planting beans in the soil. It may depend on the structure and moisture content of the soil in the garden, weather conditions. The best option is to plant bean seeds at a depth of 4-5 cm. If there is a strong heat in the spring and the soil is dry, then the distance of the seeds to the soil surface is increased to about 7 cm.


There are several ways to plant beans outdoors. Tall bushes are often located near the fence, near the walls, near trees and tall garden crops. Up to 5-7 beans are laid in the nests; in the absence of natural supports for tying plants, a trellis is built or stakes are hammered. On the large beds undersized varieties beans are grown in rows. Between the bushes when planting in the open ground, up to 30 cm of space is left, between the rows we maintain a distance of up to 40 cm.


Young seedlings of beans die at frosts of minus 1°C, and bushes with immature pods can tolerate early autumn frosts down to 4°C. In the question of when to plant beans in open ground, one should not be in a hurry. A heat-loving plant, gardeners are sown after the threat of spring cold has passed. For different regions This time comes differently, so we focus on the weather forecast and local conditions. In Ukraine and in the southern regions of Russia, sowing works are carried out from the end of April to the first half of May.


bean care

There is no great difficulty in caring for beans, all the features of growing come down to the timely removal of weeds, loosening the soil, watering and feeding the plants. If desired, you can stimulate the branching of the bushes by pinching the tips of the stem. Hilling makes the bean bushes stable, helps retain moisture. The first loosening of the soil is carried out when the sprouts reach a height of 1 cm, in total we make up to 6 loosenings per season until the rows are completely closed.

Top dressing of beans in the open field

In a serious matter, how to grow beans in the open field, top dressing should be treated with caution. Excess nitrogen in care leads to strong foliage growth and reduced pod formation. In autumn, they scatter on the beds together with potassium-phosphorus preparations. In spring, fertilizers should not be applied later than 14 days before planting. On the square meter beds give up to 8 kg of compost, 20 g of superphosphate and 25 g potash fertilizers. When buds appear, up to 40 g of superphosphate and up to 15 g of potassium salt are added. During the ripening of the pods, you can limit yourself to top dressing with wood ash.

Growing beans in open ground - watering

For the yield of beans, growing conditions play an important role, waterlogging leads to the growth of leaves, and in drought the ovary is shed. In the heat, before the first buds appear, the beds are watered in moderate doses once a week. The amount of liquid depends on the weather and soil structure, up to 20 l / m 2 per week is enough. About 7 days before flowering, watering is stopped, with the exception of prolonged hot weather. After the appearance of the first pods, we water the bean plantings in the open ground with less frequency, preventing the beds from completely drying out in the care.

This crop has a number of pests and diseases that can significantly reduce the yield of beans. Bean diseases and timely control of them is an important task for every vegetable grower. When yellowing sheet plates, the appearance of incomprehensible spots, finding damaged beans, we can talk about infection of the site with fungi or harmful insects. It is necessary to highlight several main threats to which the main attention should be paid when growing outdoors:

  1. Anthracnose. The disease causes the formation of rounded sunken spots, thin brown veins, yellowing and death of the leaves. The pods change shape, become covered with a dirty coating, ulcers.
  2. Bean virus mosaic. It tolerates aphid infection, the leaves change color during the disease, become variegated, wrinkle. When grown in open ground, beans that have become ill with mosaic grow poorly, lag behind their neighbors, and the yield of the bushes decreases.
  3. White rot beans. With the disease, softening of the stems and leaves, a change in their color is observed. Affected plants rot and die.
  4. beans. In outdoor care, this dangerous infection is often found, which leads to the death of a large percentage of plantings. Plaque forms first white color, then the green mass turns yellow and dries.

Measures for prevention and protection against bean diseases:

  • Do not make plantings dense, provide airing to the bushes in care.
  • Diseased plants are removed.
  • Weeds help diseases spread, remove them from the garden in a timely manner.
  • Use healthy bean seeds for planting.
  • Dressing the beans before sowing reduces the risk of infection.
  • Observe crop rotation in open ground.
  • anthracnose and white rot win Bordeaux liquid and other copper-containing preparations.
  • Helps in the fight against mosaic early boarding beans, preventive measures against the spread of aphids.
  • Powdery mildew in care is exterminated with sulfur preparations.

by the most dangerous pests beans are caryopsis, sprout fly and slugs. When planting, inspect the grains, excluding the sowing of infected material. In the care against insects, the treatment of the beds by "Decis", "Metaphos", and others is used. When slugs are found, the ground is sprinkled with ash or superphosphate, mulch with leaves and nettle shoots repels the pest. You can install baits in the form of dug plastic bottles filled with beer, regularly emptying them from drowned insects.


Beans are one of the most useful and popular vegetable crops grown under conditions middle lane. Due to its dietary properties, it is included in the diet of people suffering from kidney disease and gastrointestinal tract. Due high content bean protein is considered a complete meat substitute and an excellent source of energy, as a result of which it is recommended for consumption by people involved in heavy physical labor and sports. The trace elements and amino acids contained in it have a beneficial effect on human body, contribute to its recovery after illness and general cleansing. Beans are used to prepare a lot of delicious and healthy meals: it is boiled, fried, stewed and preserved for the winter, and after heat treatment all are saved beneficial features culture. But! Eating beans raw is undesirable, and sometimes even dangerous.

In addition to the fact that the bean has good taste, it is a very unpretentious agricultural crop, due to which it is successfully cultivated in open ground both in large fields and in small suburban areas. Some flowering bean varieties can be grown as ornamental plants.

In order to (get a rich harvest of beans, it is enough to take into account a few recommendations, thanks to which the process of growing beans in the open field will be possible even for a novice vegetable grower.

Preparing for landing

You can plant beans in the ground different ways- Seeds and seedlings.

When growing beans from seeds they need to be pre-soaked. To do this, the beans are wrapped in a cotton napkin, abundantly moistened with warm water. After a few days, when the sprouts hatch, the seeds will be ready for planting in the ground.

To speed up the harvest, beans can be planted in the ground already finished seedlings. To do this, hatched beans are planted in small containers with a substrate until seedlings appear. After 15-20 days, the seedlings will be ready for planting in the ground.

The soil

For planting beans, it is recommended to choose areas with loose fertile soil, the culture does not grow well on dense clay soils, does not like swampy lowlands. Since the bean is a green manure plant, it is often planted to enrich the soil with nitrogen. Wherein Tomatoes, potatoes, cucumbers and cabbage are considered the best predecessor crops for it.. It is not recommended to plant beans at the place where legumes are grown for 3–5 years.

In order for the soil to warm up and “breathe”, 2–3 days before planting, it must be dug up and thoroughly loosened with a rake. In order to save usable space in the garden can be planted along the fence curly beans, bush varieties crops are grown in garden beds.

Landing specifics

  • The distance between the holes is from 18 to 20 cm.
  • Row spacing - from 45 to 50 cm.
  • The depth of the touched beans is approximately 4–5 cm.

After planting, the bed must be watered abundantly. To speed up the emergence of seedlings, beds with crops can be covered with polyethylene or covering material, thereby creating greenhouse conditions.

Care

Serious care for beans is not required. It is enough to water the plantings in a timely manner, periodically weed the beds and regularly loosen the soil between the rows to ensure air access to the root system of the plant. It is very important to prevent the formation of a dried crust on the soil surface. From time to time, bushes need to be examined for damage to the crop by diseases and pests. The sooner you can notice their appearance, the more effective the fight against them will be.

To attract pollinating insects to bean beds, it is recommended periodically spray the bushes with sweet water or hang around the perimeter of jars with sugar syrup or honey. This procedure helps to improve pollination and increase crop yields.

Watering

Beans need to be watered weekly, and before flowering, the required the volume of water per square meter is approximately 5-6 liters. During the formation and ripening of fruits, the amount of water should be doubled. Competent organization watering is very important for beans. Insufficient watering can cause flowers and ovaries to fall off, as well as adversely affect palatability ah harvest. Excess moisture will lead to excessive growth of the leaf mass, which is undesirable during the period of fruit formation.

top dressing

As a rule, beans do not need additional fertilization. She's had enough nutrients, remaining after top dressing of predecessor crops.

In case of extremely low fertility, soil enrichment is allowed a small amount rotted bird droppings or wood ash.

Diseases and pests

It is very important to identify signs of damage to beans by diseases and pests in time. Beans are most susceptible to fungal infections, such as:

  • Anthracnose - manifests itself in the form brown spots on leaves and stems. On the fruits, deep lesions are formed, filled with pinkish mucus. The disease leads to rotting of the fruit and the complete loss of the crop.
  • Root rot - when affected, the plant begins to lag behind in development, sheds leaves and fruit ovaries; the roots and basal neck are covered with a white-pink bloom.
  • White rot - the stems and fruits of the beans are affected. Pathogenic mycelium of white color rapidly develops on their surface.

Preparations with a high content of copper have been successfully used to combat fungal infections.

Of the bean pests, the most dangerous are:

  • The bean weevil is a small brown beetle with a bronze sheen that lays its eggs inside the beans. If you miss the timing of the fight against it, there is a risk of losing more than half of the crop.
  • The whitefly is a very small, yellowish-white insect that feeds on the juice of unripe beans.
  • The gourd aphid is a polyphagous pest that devours the leaves and fruits of beans.

To combat these pests, the plants are treated with insecticides. During this period, the procedure for attracting pollinating insects is recommended to be temporarily stopped.

If the summer turned out to be damp and rainy, beans can be attacked by slugs. Most effective method salvation from these voracious creatures - to collect them manually. The method is unpleasant, but effective.

Harvest and storage

The timing of the harvest of beans directly depends on its varietal affiliation and the chosen storage method. For example, asparagus beans should be harvested without waiting for its full ripening, since it is eaten green along with the pods. ahead of schedule it is recommended to collect beans for preservation and freezing.

To harvest mature beans, you will have to be patient. They are harvested gradually, as they mature. You can determine the degree of maturity of the beans by breaking the pod in two: ready for harvesting, it breaks easily, and the edges of the breakage are even, fibrous. Husked beans should be dried in the sun or in the oven before being stored. Beans are stored in linen bags, in which you need to put a few cloves of garlic or a few dill seeds to scare away bugs that want to feast on the freshly harvested crop.

Starting to lay out the garden before the new season, you are considering how it is more convenient to place all the necessary vegetable crops where to place a bed with onions, tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, etc. At the same time, in most cases, gardeners do not even remember planting beans.

But leguminous, asparagus and grain for the body! Packed with fiber, vegetable protein, and essential vitamins and minerals, this legume definitely deserves a place in your yard. Moreover, planting beans can easily be carried out along the fence, around the house, between rows of potatoes and cabbage, or under fruit trees and shrubs, without requiring separate beds.

By planting beans on your plot, you will immediately kill two birds with one stone: you will harvest tasty and healthy beans and at the same time prepare best conditions for growing vegetables next season, because this legume saturates the soil with nitrogen.

Video about growing beans

Choosing a place for beans depends on what variety you are going to grow. Bush beans are most conveniently planted in beds or between rows of cabbage and potatoes, and weaving beans will feel great anywhere - the main thing is that there is a support nearby that can be braided (pole, sunflowers, corn, shrubs, trees or fence).

Preparing the soil and bean seeds

Legumes grow and produce best in fertile, well-drained, light soils. If the earth in your area is clay, and ground water are close, the beans may not grow at all.

To increase the yield of beans, compost or humus is introduced into the ground before planting seeds, you can additionally use ammonium nitrate as a fertilizer and add a mixture of superphosphate and potassium chloride. An excess of nitrogen in the soil will lead to increased growth of green mass in beans, to the detriment of the development of pods.

To increase the yield of beans, compost or humus is introduced into the ground before planting seeds.

They start sowing bean seeds already in April-May, but since seedlings hatch in a week, and frosts in early May are not uncommon, it is recommended to pre-treat the beans before planting the beans. Seed treatment is as follows:

  • carefully check the beans for diseased, substandard and grinder damage and sort out quality seeds;
  • to speed up germination, it is better to soak the seeds overnight in melted water (just do not leave the beans in the water for more than 15 hours so that they do not “choke”);
  • before planting, dip the swollen beans for five minutes in a warm water solution boric acid and ammonium - this will protect bean seedlings from nodule weevil.

Planting beans and further plant care

When the air temperature rises to 15 degrees, and the likelihood of night frosts will come to naught, you can start planting bean seeds. The optimal depth for planting beans in the ground is considered to be a depth of five centimeters, too deep planting will slow down germination and lead to the likelihood of rotting beans, and too shallow will cause seedlings to lodging.

When planting semi-curly and climbing varieties in the garden, place a two-meter trellis

When sowing bush varieties, leave about 20 cm between the seeds, the next row is sown at a distance of 40 cm from the previous one, the beans are planted in a checkerboard pattern. More than four rows is undesirable.

When planting semi-climbing and climbing varieties in the garden, place a two-meter trellis, dig in two poles and stretch twine or wire between them, and sow the seeds on both sides of the trellis. The distance between the beans is maintained at 30 cm. You can plant climbing beans in nests, lowering five beans into one hole, then instead of a trellis you will need to drive a peg into the ground, around which the plants will subsequently curl. Just don't use plastic or metal support, since the beans will not be able to catch on to it.

After sowing the beans, water the bed and compact it reverse side rake. To protect from night frosts, cover the crops with a covering material. When seedlings appear, it is recommended to spud them to give the plants stability.

After sowing the beans, water the bed and compact it with the back of the rake

Further care for beans:

  • before flowering, the sprouts are watered no more than once a week (excess moisture leads to leaf growth) in dry weather;
  • with the advent of flowers and bean pods, watering is doubled;
  • after each watering of the beans or rain, the aisle must be loosened;
  • remove weeds as they appear;
  • the first feeding with superphosphate is carried out during the formation of the first true leaf, the second time the beans are fed with potassium salt during budding;
  • when the plants reach two meters in height, they need to be pinched from above to stimulate the appearance of ovaries.

How and when to harvest beans

The taste of the beans is greatly influenced by the time of harvest, so if you want to get delicious beans, do not miss the right time, and try to pick the pods in the morning while they are saturated with night moisture. Bean pods are cut with scissors or abruptly cut off, holding the stem with the other hand.

Video about picking beans

Harvesting of beans begins two weeks after the appearance of flowers and is carried out every two days until all the “shoulders” have matured. Here it is important to consider in what form you are going to use the beans? If you are interested in the pods along with the shells, pick them up while the shells look green and juicy, and their length does not exceed five centimeters. If you need the beans themselves for cooking, the beans are harvested during the milky maturity of the “shoulders”, when they reach their maximum size and best taste. Already blackened pods are harvested for seeds.

Not only the correct planting of beans and timely harvesting is important - it is also necessary to properly prepare the beans for storage. To do this, the ripe beans are threshed and dried on paper, after which they are stored in containers with a tightly fitting lid so that the fruits do not turn out to be spoiled by insects.

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