Spring preparation of beds for high yields. autumn garden

Save so you don't lose!

Many novice gardeners by the end of autumn calm down from worries and leave the beds until spring without much attention. Those who have been taking care of the land for more than a year know that the next year's harvest will largely depend on the state in which the garden leaves in the winter.
In autumn, it is necessary to make a number of techniques that will become the basis for the good development and fruiting of vegetable crops, as well as less hassle next year.

The main rule of a high yield with minimal labor costs is accuracy. It is precisely how scrupulously we approach the cleanliness of our beds that largely determines their infestation with diseases and pests. Most of these enemies of the gardener not only infect plants during the season, but, remaining on plant debris, successfully overwinter and infect crops of subsequent seasons.

We clean the garden from plant residues. Therefore, even if the crop of the current year was harvested with attention, the beds could accumulate the remains of cultivated crops, weeds, wind-blown debris. By winter, they must be carefully collected and laid in a compost heap, and parts of plants affected by diseases should be completely removed from the site or burned.

There are several rules:

Autumn digging, as the basis for preparing for spring plantings In addition to surface cleaning, the earth also needs autumn digging. Today, many gardeners are arguing on this issue, but if you look at the advantages of this agricultural technique, it still turns out that doing it is more useful than harmful. Why?

The dug up earth freezes better - this is a good prevention against fungal, viral, bacterial infections and insect pests wintering in it. Saturated with oxygen. Acquires a looser structure. Holds snow well. It is better saturated with spring moisture. Part of the seeds of weeds that have fallen on its surface during the growing season fall to a depth from which they cannot rise. And in the spring, it is even easier to take care of a garden bed that has been treated since autumn.

In addition, it is for autumn digging that it is recommended to apply basic fertilizer, lime, clay and other components aimed at improving the soil. Only in autumn it is possible to deepen the arable layer by cultivating the land. Thus, it will not be possible to replace autumn digging, especially for heavy clay and acidic soils, with spring digging, since they have different tasks and advantages. Only on light soils can this agricultural method be abandoned in favor of spring work, replacing autumn digging with surface loosening.

How to properly dig the soil in the fall

To achieve the greatest effect, it is necessary to prepare in advance for the autumn digging:

the first stage is the cleaning of the beds from the plants cultivated on it;
the second - surface loosening of the earth in order to provoke a new wave of weed growth;
the third is the pre-winter digging itself.

Usually, autumn digging is carried out at the end of September (where winter begins earlier) and up to the end of October (where autumn is characterized by a measured decrease in temperatures). The main thing is to guess the moment before the onset of prolonged rains.

The soil coming out from under the shovel is not loosened, but left in clods. In this state, it freezes better, accumulates more snow, and in areas with a slight slope it retains spring melt water.

The depth of digging is chosen depending on the cultivated layer. Usually it is about 20 cm, but in general from 15 to 35 cm. On lands that need to increase the fertile layer once every three years, the digging depth is increased by 3-5 cm with the obligatory turning over of the layer and fertilizing.

We prepare the beds.
On well-cultivated soils, during autumn digging, the earth layer is not turned over.

Disinfection

It happens that the crops in the beds were very badly damaged by diseases and therefore the soil after them must be disinfected. Here, a good solution is not only deep digging with a turnover of the reservoir, but also sowing green manure (for example, white mustard), introducing semi-rotted cow manure, spreading ash, tilling the soil with any microbiological preparation, scalding the earth with boiling water. If possible, you can plant the vegetative mass of marigolds into the soil. In cases where none of the above is at hand, spread the straw over the bed and burn it.

When applying organic fertilizers, cow dung is the best choice. It is scattered over the surface of the beds in the amount of 3 - 6 kg per 1 sq. m, and carefully dug up, planting in the soil on the same day, to a depth of 15 cm. The result of applying manure is observed within 4-7 years (depending on the type of soil), so it is not necessary to apply it annually, but should be applied every 3 - 4 years. In addition, not all crops respond well to it, therefore, it is introduced under the most responsive of them - potatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, tomatoes.
An even more effective option is the combination of organic matter with mineral fertilizers. But here it is necessary to remember that it does not make sense to introduce nitrogen for autumn digging, but only the phosphorus-potassium group. Potassium sulphate can be an excellent choice here - it has calcium, magnesium and no chlorine, and can be used on any soil. For light sandy and sandy loamy soils - kalimag. From phosphate fertilizers - superphosphate, phosphate rock.

We build warm beds.

A very good option for late autumn application are narrowly targeted complex fertilizers marked "autumn". Today they can be found on sale not only with recommendations for use for a particular crop, but also in packages labeled “for strawberries”, “for grapes”. This facilitates the selection and ensures the literacy of the application.

Warm beds

A good owner does not waste anything. Therefore, at the time of collecting plant residues, many gardeners form warm beds. Plant debris, fallen leaves, cut branches just go into the dug trenches. During the winter, all this rots and becomes an excellent food for plants.

The earth must not be empty

In areas with high winds, on slopes, and even where the land already needs to be updated, planting green manure for the winter is a very good agronomic technique. It can be rapeseed, winter rye, winter vetch or oats. In addition to the fact that their roots will loosen the soil, and the vegetative mass will become an excellent organic fertilizer, these crops will bring other benefits: they will retain snow on the soil surface, protect the earth from leaching and weathering, and protect plantings (for example, strawberries) from spring return frosts.

Green manure can be sown in several stages: already in August, then the planting will have to be repeated later, or in September. If the crops were postponed to a later date - it does not matter either - they will sprout in the spring and still have time to fulfill their function. Podzimnye planting It will not be superfluous to think about winter plantings before winter. Crops planted in the fall will sprout two weeks earlier, produce hardened, disease-resistant seedlings, save spring work time, and allow re-sowing. Most often, carrots, beets, salads, dill and parsley are sown before winter, winter garlic and onion sets are planted.

We carry out winter landings.

It is necessary to start winter crops no earlier than with stable thermometer readings around 0 ° C and continue until the first stable frosts on pre-prepared beds.

Crop rotation.

And finally, crop rotation. The condition of the soil, the contamination of the garden with weeds, the prevalence of insect pests, the mass reproduction of bacterial and fungal diseases, and the need to apply certain fertilizers depend on how well it is thought out and observed. Therefore, if it is not there, it is precisely in the autumn period, when the beds are empty, that you need to be patient, pick up a pencil, study the characteristics of crops and draw up a plan for their alternation.

Many gardeners are of the opinion that all autumn work on the garden plot ends with the arrival of autumn and cold weather.

However, the preparation of beds for winter is just beginning. This is a fundamental point for a future harvest without chemicals. Let's figure it out and find out in more detail what autumn work needs to be done on the site and how to prevent land depletion and maintain fertility. These methods can be used in Siberia, the Urals and the Moscow region.

Principles of preparing the garden for winter

Sowing green manure. Should be started immediately after harvest. This helps to cover the surface of the earth in autumn, not to freeze in winter, snow is better retained on the surface, microorganisms remain in the soil and multiply much more, and this can provide the soil with everything it needs without the use of fertilizers.

Mulching. It is necessary to cover future beds with a layer of manure, humus or compost (if green manure has not been sown).

Warm beds. For their preparation, you can take the tops of any garden plants (without visible infection). And in the spring season, just pour them with liquid microorganisms and then the process will start.

Treatment from harmful insects. In order to avoid contamination of the soil and undesirable consequences from pests, it is necessary to shed liquid microorganisms.

Let's dwell on each question in more detail.

Preparing beds for winter

Fertilization of the soil plays a special role in the preparation. Farming experts believe that there is no need to dig up the earth and add manure or other fertilizers: all these measures will not benefit your garden. The soil does not need to be dug up, but it is important to place fertilizers on top of the ground.

The most positive outcome will be the use of exclusively natural fertilizers. This category includes items that are considered organic waste - branches, boards, old paper. Ash after burning such things will perfectly nourish the soil of the site. It should be scattered throughout the garden.

And also pay attention to manure: it is an excellent type of fertilizer. It is undesirable to use purchased manure, as it may contain infections that will get into your soil. Using manure from your own pets is a good solution. Such fertilizer should be mixed with sawdust and placed over the entire surface of the site.

The note! "Organic soil nutrients can be harvested throughout the year."

It is necessary to prepare the beds as they are released. An empty bed should be dug up with sand and sown with green manure. After the emergence of seedlings and they reach the flowering phase, you can again dig the ground. But it is necessary to do this so that the plants are under a clod of earth (do not break the clods).

This method of digging the soil has its advantages: it is cultivated in small areas and the garden soil looks well-groomed before it is covered with snow. Sowing green manure in the fall has an aesthetic appearance and is partly a replacement for manure or humus. With a preventive purpose for the destruction of the larvae of various insects, you can apply:

• dig up the soil;
• spill the earth with a 40% solution of metham-sodium;
• fumigation with sulfur;
• collect the visible larvae with your hands.

Then we fertilize the greenhouse beds. When digging, we simultaneously introduce organic fertilizers, humus, manure, compost. The amount of fertilizer will depend on the choice of planting material in a given greenhouse.

Sprinkle sand or ash on top and cover with dry grass or foliage. And you can also cover the soil with snow. In spring, during thawing, it will saturate the soil with moisture.

warm beds

These include beds, which consist of the remains of plants. Its design lies in the fact that in the process of decay of organic plants a large amount of thermal energy is generated, which heats up the root system (for example, a tomato) and helps to endure the cold period. And also during the processes of decay, carbon dioxide is formed, which contributes to the formation of nutrients.

The note! “This type of beds is made before the winter period, since in autumn there is a lot of vacant land and plant remains.”

For its construction, you need to make a box of wooden boards and put wood waste (shavings, sawdust) on the bottom. Then put a paper layer (newspapers, paper, etc.), sprinkle with compost or manure on top. The top layer is cut grass, foliage, weeds, etc.

It is necessary to shed such a bed every day for the formation of a rotting process. In the spring, you need to pour humus over the existing layers, and plants can be planted.

Digging the earth in open ground

There are two methods of digging in the fall in open ground:

• dumpless; in this case, the dug up soil is not turned over or broken; this allows you to save the natural environment;
• dump; here the earth is turned over so that the top layer is at the very bottom. Such a measure allows you to prevent the growth of weeds and destroy harmful insects during the winter period.

It is impossible to single out one of these methods as the best. However, in any case, the dug-up soil should not be broken, otherwise the earth may freeze, and when it becomes warmer, the snow will melt, soak into the ground and it will be crumbly.

The note! “The digging process is carried out with a shovel or villas. Usually one shovel bayonet is enough for proper digging in open ground.

in the greenhouse

Land care in a greenhouse has a slightly different approach. Remove up to 10 cm of the top layer of earth to kill pests, and then place fresh soil there. If it is not possible to replace the soil in the greenhouse, then it should be disinfected. This can be done with boiling water, a solution of potassium permanganate, copper sulfate and other methods.

siderates

Preparing the garden for winter includes sowing green manure in the fall. This is an important measure for obtaining a good harvest and fertile soil. Proper use of this solution allows you to save land, even when crops are grown annually in the same place.

Do not forget that before sowing green manure, data on their compatibility with other crops should be taken into account. It is important to pay attention to the plants that were planted last year and are planned to be sown. Given this information, you should make a choice of green manure.

If you choose the wrong green fertilizer, it can ruin the future crop. There is no need to place green manure underground. Such a measure will not bring any benefit and you will just waste your time. Nutrient components are located in green manure. Worms will process this part of the plants. Planting and supporting the development of green manure is all that is needed for good soil fertility.

Compost

The first step is to prepare the compost pit. It should be filled in the autumn. At this time, there is enough organic debris on the ground. The bottom layer should be waste that rots for a long time, namely wood (branches, boards, etc.). Next, you need to put food waste, grass and manure. At the top, you need to put leaves, then earth. Such a pile needs to be watered with EM preparations.

When you completely fill the space of the pit, you should cover it with polyethylene and leave until the spring. Up to this point, all elements will rot. Cold temperatures will not harm the recycling process and you will have ready-made compost at the beginning of the gardening period.

Mulching

Mulching in the fall is an important step in growing your own vegetable garden. This measure allows you to give the soil the necessary amount of important organic substances, which will allow the land to have high fertility for a long period. It is the autumn period that is most favorable for this process. The crop has already been harvested, and there is a lot of organic garbage on the ground.

Leaves, the remains of vegetables and fruits, as well as other natural waste should not be removed from the soil. Add sawdust, leaves, plants on top of it all and cover it all with cardboard. If there is no complete thick sheet, then cardboard boxes can be used. This method of mulching will protect the earth from the cold, and also allow it to become healthier.

Fruit trees can be insulated with mulching. For this, the same organic waste is used. They are able to protect tree roots from cold conditions. However, you can not use dry grass, because rodents can start in it. For each of the measures listed, you can find a video instruction that will help you to carry out the activities correctly.

Regardless of whether you are going to grow vegetables, flowers or shrubs and trees, the first step is to prepare the soil. In well loosened soil, the roots can develop optimally, rainwater and water from irrigation easily seeps into such soil, and exactly where it is needed - directly to the roots, and excess moisture is easily removed. Soil with small clods is the optimal cradle for yours.

If you didn't do deep loosening in the fall, you can do it in the spring. However, it must be carried out in a timely manner, when the soil is not frozen and is no longer too wet. After all, after loosening, the soil should settle a little more and compact - only after that you can plant it in it. Try not to trample loosened soil as much as possible. For example, work mostly in reverse and lay a board if you still need to step into the garden.

Preparing beds and other areas for planting

Compost provides nutrients slowly but for a long time and generally improves soil properties. And the plants after planting begin to grow well. But it is necessary to use mature, mixed with the ground and sieved compost, which was “ready” last fall (especially for seedlings). It is best to apply it a couple of weeks before sowing. First spread the compost with a shovel or bucket over the area to be planted in a layer of about 1 cm, and then mix it into the soil, but do not bury!

Prepare the beds - loosening in the spring: give air, weeds away

If deep loosening of the soil was carried out in autumn, light loosening is enough in spring to ventilate its upper layer:

• To do this, use a grubber, cultivator or ripper.
• In dug up soil, you first need to crush large clods of earth with a pickaxe.
• At the same time, carefully collect the roots of weeds - these efforts will pay off in any case.

It is best to loosen a couple of days before planting, so that the soil has time to settle again.

How to get loose soil - an important point in preparing beds for sowing and planting seedlings

The rotary cultivator, or star roller, is a practical tool for breaking up clods and clods and removing weeds. It will be especially useful on soils prone to clumping; in other cases, you can get by with a rake.

Expert Tip: Put large clods of earth on top - they'll serve you well.

Level the ground well

Some soils are sometimes very difficult to level. To do this, you have to work with a rake up and down on the surface and rake large clods to the side. The fact that the soil is again slightly compacted does not harm the plants at all, on the contrary, it provides the seeds and roots of the plants with better contact with the ground.

Expert Tip: Level holes that get waterlogged because they can damage seeds and seedlings.

Paths and borders between beds

If the aisles are not paved with anything, then it is best to trample them down well, and then cover them with bark mulch or rubble. To keep the edges of the beds clear, use a rope stretched between the pegs, or a piece of hose. A simple and flexible border for beds can be durable plastic border tapes or vertically dug plates. The wooden palisade looks, of course, more beautiful, but it outlines too rigidly.

Preparation for the gardening season begins in early spring. But before that, at the end of winter, careful planning must be carried out so that the preparatory work is as effective as possible. If you have a site plan, great. If not, you will have to make a trip to the dacha and conduct a “reconnaissance” of the area. You need to get an accurate idea of ​​what and how much you will grow in the coming season. And as soon as April comes, start preparing the land for the future bountiful harvest.

Preparation of beds in the spring begins, depending on the climatic conditions of your area. Traditionally in the middle lane this is April. The main thing is that the snow melts and the temperature rises above zero.

You should not go "into the field" as soon as the last snow has disappeared. Wait until the sun dries the top layer of soil, and the moisture from the melting snow goes deeper into the ground.

While the garden looks like a mud bath, the summer resident has something to do. Gardening also requires attention. And in order not to waste precious time later on processing and pruning fruit trees and berry bushes, do this first.

They need to be freed from insulation and protective shelters, whitened if you have not done this before, sanitary pruned until the buds wake up, and perform preventive treatment in order to save the young green leaves that will soon appear from greedy pests.

How to know that the soil is ready for cultivation

To understand whether or not the land is ready for spring preparation of beds, people have long used a proven method. Take some earth in the palm of your hand and try to crumble it. The soil should break up into small fragments.

If it lies in a sticky block, it is too early to process. But if it crumbles as soon as you touch it, then you are a little late, and the earth has dried up.

You should not wait for the soil to dry out, otherwise you will have to carry out water-charging watering of the entire garden before sowing. To make the soil ready for cultivation faster, for sowing cold-resistant and early crops, pour peat on the remaining snow on the beds. This will speed up the warm-up and allow you to start processing earlier.

Preparation by stages

Like any planned action, the spring preparation of the beds has its own stages, each of which must be completed at its own time. Much depends on what garden work was carried out in the fall.

Digging

If you have not dug up the ground since autumn (it is recommended to do this in October, when the crop is harvested, the remains are removed, but the cold has not yet come in full force), digging will be the first step in preparing for sowing. Don't dig deep in the spring. If autumn digging is done 25 cm deep, in spring 15 cm is enough. But the turnover of the reservoir must be complete so that all the lower part of the soil is on top.

Fertilizer

Simultaneously with digging, the soil is saturated with nitrogen. You can only apply well and completely rotted compost or manure. If in the fall you dug up the garden and added organic matter, you can skip these two steps and go directly to loosening. If you are digging and fertilizing in the spring, wait a week for the soil to recompact slightly.

loosening

The dug up earth must be loosened. The loosening layer should be shallow - 5-10 cm. At the same time, all the roots of weeds are removed so that they do not germinate, becoming an obstacle to the sprouts of sown cultivated seeds. If digging is carried out with a shovel, then for loosening it is better to use a rotary cultivator or, in the case of the formation of earthen blocks, a star roller.

These devices can break up earth seals, give the soil uniformity and light structure.

Weeds and other plant waste that you have removed from the garden can be composted. Also, autumn foliage collected from the site is allowed here, if the trees are not affected by fungal diseases. You can shift the plants in the compost pit with manure or sprinkle with humus. In the first case, it will take more time to rot the compost mass.

Leveling and marking ridges

Loose soil must be leveled. This can be done with an ordinary rake. After that, you can start marking the ridges. Traditionally, the maximum width of the beds should not exceed 1.2 m, so that it is convenient to carry out sowing, weeding, breaking through and other plant care work. The length can be any, at your discretion.

Along the edge of the bed, if there is no border on the border with the passage, it is good to fill in earthen rollers, up to 8 cm high. They will not allow moisture to drain from the ridge during irrigation and protect the usable sown area from the penetration of weeds from the outside.

If the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe garden allows, create ideal beds, the width of which will be 60-70 cm. Between them, arrange paths of approximately the same width. Then everyone, even tall garden plants, will have enough sunlight, moisture and space in the soil to grow in full force.

Interesting way:

The paths are also dug up, like the ridges, but not as deep, only to remove weed rhizomes from the soil. After the beds are ready, the paths are sprinkled with sawdust or other mulching material. So weeds will not grow on them, which otherwise will soon be in the usable area of ​​the garden, interfering with cultivated plants and taking away nutrients from them.

You can equip high beds. This is especially true in the northern regions. Their boundaries are delineated by a half-meter wide wooden beam, slate, board, any materials so that a kind of box is obtained. The inside is filled with earth at a level higher than 35-45 cm than the level of the garden. The width can be about a meter, but not more than 1.2 m.

How to improve the soil

Sometimes it is necessary to improve not only the structure, but also the quality of the soil. In the spring, this is done by fertilizing. To understand exactly what substances need to be applied, evaluate the quality of the soil. This can be done manually by determining the type by the nature of the earthy coma. Clay soils from a lump do not break. Fertile chernozems break up with medium force. Sandstone crumbles instantly.

What can be used.

1. organic fertilizers.
2. mineral fertilizers.
3. Peat or sand bedding.

When applying fertilizers and auxiliary substances, the measure is important. Don't cut many components, choose one or two, depending on the needs of your soil.

What ingredients are added to the soil.

How to cook ridges in greenhouses

In the greenhouse in the spring, it is also necessary to prepare the area for sowing. This is done two weeks earlier than the weather allows you to start preparing in the garden.

Often in greenhouses, crop rotation is not observed very carefully. They have been sown the same crops in their places for years. Therefore, it is necessary to carefully prepare the soil for sowing in a greenhouse.

1. Replace the top layer first. Remove about 15 cm of the old soil, take it out of the greenhouse (it can be used in open beds) and fill this place with freshly prepared soil.
2. For topping up, the soil is prepared from soddy soil, river sand, humus and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 3: 5.
3. Next, the poured soil must be well moistened by choosing any method of watering. It is possible, if there is still snow outside the greenhouse, to throw it on the greenhouse beds. When melted, it will provide the necessary moisture.
4. The last step is loosening, marking the beds and arranging holes or furrows for sowing seeds.

Fighting weeds

Twice-time tillage and its continuous loosening in the summer in no way contribute to its improvement. Autumn tillage for vegetables should be done before the onset of stable cold weather and the rainy season. The best time for such a task is the second half of September - the first decade of October.

It is advisable to start soil preparation with light loosening of the topmost soil layer and harvesting the previous crop. For such purposes, it is easiest to use a rake. This will stimulate the germination of weed seeds for their subsequent harvesting with

harrowing. Professionals recommend using Fokin's flat cutter, which simultaneously destroys weeds and loosens the soil. Even if later on the beds a shoot of young weeds appears, they will be destroyed during the spring loosening of the soil. Regular carrying out of this work leads to the destruction of weeds such as dandelion, wheatgrass, coltsfoot, since only mature plants have outstanding vitality.

Working as a cultivator and walk-behind tractor

Most landowners prefer mechanical tillage, which significantly increases the yield, and on overgrown with perennial grasses and uncultivated soils, it is simply an indispensable agricultural technique.

When cultivating the soil with a cultivator, the cutter creates a finely cloddy structure of the root layer, which is most favorable for the development of the root system. The rotation speed of the cutter should not exceed 200 rpm, which is considered the most suitable for these jobs.

Among other things, the motor cultivator allows loosening row spacings, hilling and cutting furrows. Meanwhile, it should be immediately taken into account that the cultivator is able to work only on previously plowed soil. That is, if the site is sodden, then the walk-behind tractor will be most welcome. At the same time, all the green mass is covered and mixed with the soil.

Many models of walk-behind tractors have a power take-off shaft that allows you to use a variety of attachments. When using a cutter on a walk-behind tractor, the soil structure is especially fine, suitable for direct sowing of vegetable seeds and favorable for growing young seedlings. Such tillage is used in greenhouses and greenhouses. In open ground, the number of factors affecting the quality of the fertile layer is many times higher, and "downy" land is simply unacceptable for it.

As a rule, cultivated plants need abundant nutrition. Cultivated soil almost doubles its volume due to the formed pores and wells filled with air. This contributes to the rapid decomposition of plant residues, the formation of humus. Soil tillage stimulates root growth

plant systems and allows it to penetrate into the depths with less effort.

Once every five years, deep tillage may be required. For this, walk-behind tractors or mini-tractors with a set of mounted implements are suitable. Deep tillage increases the arable layer several times and improves drainage. Such work is of particular benefit when growing table root vegetables.

Note that southern soils require deeper loosening, while northern soils can be content with relatively shallow tillage.

About the benefits of fertilizers

In addition to loosening the soil, it is necessary to apply fertilizers - mineral and organic. In the process of loosening, they are evenly mixed with the fertile layer and in the spring, after planting, they effectively reach the roots. At the same time, the soil structure improves, which is required for a good quality product.

During digging, organic fertilizers (compost, manure) are applied only to the plots of cucumber and cabbage seedlings planned for next year (approximately 1 mg per bucket). Mineral fertilizers, except for nitrogen, can be applied to all crops. The depth of digging should be at least 20 cm.

If you want to deepen the arable horizon, then keep in mind that in this case additional doses of organic fertilizers will be required. On acidic soil, liming will be a prerequisite. After harvesting late crops (cabbage, parsnips, celery), tops and plant residues (except for stumps) should be finely chopped and buried in deep grooves across the ridge, leaving until spring. On such ridges, you can not only sow ahead of time, but the soil on them warms up better.

How to treat a plot on which nothing has grown for a long time

How to treat a plot on which nothing has grown for a long time

In the first spring, the soddy area is dug up to a depth of 10 cm, turning the layer over, and left until autumn. In autumn, the site is again dug up, but already to a depth of 20 cm. By this time, the sod is at a depth and no longer germinates. It remains only to fertilize and level the surface with a rake.

In autumn, the area treated in spring is dug up again, but to a greater depth.

The next autumn, after harvesting, the site is dug up to the depth of the fertile layer. By this time, the sod will decompose, and the weed will die. Subsequently, the soil is processed as mastered.

Autumn tillage is considered much more effective than spring tillage. Moreover, in the spring you don’t feel like digging up the site, when all the work can fit into light tillage with a rake!

Autumn is a responsible time of the year for a beginner gardener. The foundation for the future harvest is being laid right now.

In autumn, the soil is dug up so that large blocks remain (they are not broken with a shovel). The lumps will freeze, and with them the wintering stages of pests and pathogenic microorganisms. In addition, frost loosens the dug-up layer, and moisture can seep into the depths without hindrance.

Cleaning the garden is a good reason to organize a compost heap. You can dump plant residues into it. But only not infected with diseases and pests. Pathogens and pests can partially survive in the compost, and then end up with it in vegetable beds. It is impossible to throw into the compost and weeds with already formed seeds, since the seeds remain viable for 3-5 years.

autumn sowing

In order to carry out the autumn sowing, you will need good quality seeds. They will have to lie in the ground all winter. For such a case, it is better to purchase colored seeds (this shell contains a special disinfectant, and they do not need to be germinated, which is required for winter crops).

Before winter, carrots, lettuce, spinach, parsley and even cabbage are sown. But only not in those places where the soil does not dry out for a long time in the spring or flooding occurs. Crops with small seeds and greens are sown no earlier than the soil temperature becomes close to 2-3 ° C. In the central regions of the Non-Chernozem zone, this happens in the second half of October - the first ten days of November. If sown too early, seedlings may die from autumn frosts.

About root crops

If the weather is dry and non-frosty, then you can not rush to harvest root crops. Indeed, in the fall, these vegetable crops grow significantly, gain mass and juiciness, and dry weather will improve their further keeping quality.

Carrots and other root crops intended for storage should be ideal: even, without mechanical damage and signs of disease. All "freaks" are used for canning and processing.

OUR ADVICE

Onion sets with a diameter of less than 1 cm in room conditions are poorly preserved, quickly dry out. It is better to plant it before winter.

For winter sowing of small seedlings, ridges are made and planted no later than October 15-20. Planting depth 4-5 cm; the distance between rows is 20-25 cm, and between the bulbs -15-20 cm.

Plantings are mulched with peat with a layer of 1.5-2 cm and covered with dry leaves.

Middle and late varieties of white cabbage are often harvested in one go. Cabbage intended for fresh storage is harvested at a later date (but does not allow it to freeze slightly). Short-term frosts (4-5 ° C) will not damage the heads of cabbage if they thaw on the vine before cutting.

Winter garlic is planted in such a way that it takes root before the onset of frost.

For planting, the largest cloves are selected, which are located on the outside of the bulb. Those in the center should not be used for planting. They are planted to a depth of about 5-6 cm. A clove from a clove at a distance of 20-25 cm. Aisles are wide - up to 50 cm. This is how garlic grows better. And yes, it's easier to take care of.

IMPORTANT!

In small areas, it can be sown in frozen soil in pre-prepared low beds.

In this case, it is necessary to sprinkle the seeds with dry earth, peat or humus, which were stored in a frost-free room.

The rate of sowing seeds before winter increases by 1.5 times compared to spring.

The sowing depth on light soils is 0.5 cm greater than with spring sowing (due to mulching with peat).

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