Garlic leaves turn yellow in May what to do. Spring frosts - a threat to garlic

Often the feathers of garlic that have gone into growth turn yellow. If action is not taken in time, there will be no good harvest.

The leaves can turn yellow in any garlic, no matter if it is spring or winter. It is bad when the garlic turns yellow in spring or at the height of summer, but by the time of harvesting, yellowing and drying of the tops is normal. What to do if the garlic began to turn yellow at the wrong time and how to process it will be described below.

Causes

Usually yellowing - chlorosis - begins at the tips. Gradually, the yellow color spreads and development is delayed. As a result, the heads will grow small.

There are several reasons for this phenomenon:

• damage by diseases and pests;
• lack of macro- or microelements;
• wrong water regime;
• cold weather.

There are many ways to determine what caused yellowing.

Garlic planted last season turns yellow

When winter garlic turns yellow in early spring, this means that the plants have come under frost.

Yellow garlic in warm weather

Remove a few heads and look at the roots. If they are gnawed or the bottom is covered with mold, then the causes of the poor condition of the plantings are diseases and pests.

Yellowing is caused by two diseases that lilies are susceptible to: Fusarium and bacterial rot.

Fusarium

Fusarium or bottom rot manifests itself in that the tips of the garlic turn yellow, the leaves and stem dry quickly, starting from the end. A pinkish coating appears in the sinuses, then above-ground part covered with brown stripes. If you dig an onion, it is immediately noticeable that its roots have almost disappeared, and the bottom has become soft and watery.

The disease is common in southern climates, but gardeners middle lane in hot years they encounter it. Yield losses in Fusarium can reach 70%.

bacterial rot

Bacterial rot affects bulbous crops. The disease manifests itself brown dots on the surface of the teeth. Subsequently, the heads acquire a "frozen" appearance and smell unpleasant. The feathers of garlic turn yellow, then the leaves and arrows dry up and die off, starting from the ends.

Sources of the disease are bacteria that live in the soil. Microorganisms enter the plant through damage caused by mites, and nematodes.

Nematode

The stem nematode is a microscopic pest that lives in the soil. The plant affected by the nematode brightens, the garlic leaves turn yellow, then the feathers curl, the bulb rots.

How to recognize a nematode: looking at the roots with a magnifying glass, you can see small worms no more than a millimeter long. Without a magnifying glass, they look like a pinkish coating on the surface of the bottom.

What is Garlic Missing?

Sometimes garlic in the garden turns yellow due to lack of nutrition. More often, the vegetable is deficient in nitrogen and potassium. You can correct the situation by feeding.

Garlic responds well to humus mulching. You can even use chicken manure, but it must be aged in a pile for at least 2 years.

Mulching with organic lovely way top dressing. If the garlic on the beds covered with humus turns yellow, then the cause of chlorosis is not nutritional deficiency, but something else.

Those who prefer to fertilize the garden with mineral water can use urea and potassium sulfate as a prevention of yellowing garlic leaves. The last fertilizer still contains sulfur that is useful for garlic.

You can carry out foliar top dressing. The procedure is useful if the leaves of young plants turn yellow. Urea or potassium sulfate is diluted at a concentration of a teaspoon per liter of water. The leaves are sprayed from a spray bottle with a fine spray. Droplets of the working solution that have fallen on the leaf blades will be absorbed, and the yellowness will disappear.

All onions adore top dressing, as it contains a lot of potassium, which promotes the growth of bulbs and increases resistance to pests. Powder can be sprinkled on top of the bed, if it is not mulched with organic matter. Mixing ash and humus is not recommended, as this leads to the disappearance of nutrients from fertilizers.

Ash is brought in when digging the beds or preparing an aqueous concentrate for foliar feeding according to the following recipe:

1. Sift 300 g of ash.
2. Pour boiling water over and heat for 20 minutes.
3. Strain the broth and dilute with 10 liters of water.
4. Add a tablespoon liquid soap for sticking.

A common cause of yellowing garlic feathers is a lack of water. Not only lack, but also excess moisture leads to chlorosis, as plant roots suffocate due to lack of oxygen.

In case of violation of the water regime, the lower leaves dry out first. Mulching with humus or peat will help solve the problem with a lack of irrigation water.

It is more difficult to help if the garlic is flooded. To prevent this from happening, in regions with increased rainfall, vegetables are planted on raised ridges. So that the roots can breathe, the soil surface is loosened after each watering, preventing the formation of a crust.

Depending on what is the cause of the pathology, chemical, folk or agrotechnical measures will come to the rescue.

Ready funds

Diseases of garlic are easier to prevent. To do this, before planting, soak the teeth in diluted to color pink potassium permanganate or preparation Maxim. Phytosporin is suitable, in which the teeth can be kept for 15-25 minutes. You can disinfect not the planting material, but the soil by spilling the bed with a solution of one of the preparations.

Spray the leaves stuck by frost with growth stimulants: Silk, Epin, Succinic acid. Stimulants increase plant immunity and promote the emergence of new leaves.

Silk contains triterpene acids produced by coniferous trees. It is a natural regulator of plant growth and development, which has a fungicidal effect.

Appin enjoys well-deserved love experienced gardeners. The composition of the drug includes an adaptogen, which has a pronounced anti-stress effect. Epin turns on the immunity of the plant at full power. As a result, garlic reacts less to frost, drought, and temperature changes.

The drug stimulates shoot formation, so young ones quickly grow in place of dried leaves. Garlic affected by frost or heat is sprayed with Epin once a week. Treatments are repeated until the plant recovers.

For spraying take rain water rather than hard tap water.

Epin contains the phytohormone Epibrassinolide, which was synthesized by domestic scientists. Abroad, the drug is almost never used, but in Russia it is used to treat most crops.

Garlic is a popular crop in our vegetable gardens. Someone using it improves the taste of dishes and preservation, someone treats colds and repels the flu, and someone fights spirits and vampires. But on each site there is always a place for this plant. Every gardener faces the problem of yellowing garlic leaves. To choose the right method of treatment or care, you need to determine the cause of the discoloration.

Wrong landing site

Garlic is a photophilous, sunny culture. In the shade of trees, houses, fences, it does not grow, but survives. No top dressing will replace ultraviolet irradiation. Therefore, if there is an opportunity and a place, it is necessary to carry out additional plantings of spring garlic in an open area in the spring.

The leaves may turn yellow from the presence of unwanted neighbors nearby, such as peas! If these crops are nearby in your garden, you can speed up the ripening of peas with various top dressings. When the crop is harvested, remove the plants by the roots and feed the garlic generously with ashes and highly diluted slurry. If the peas are early and early ripening, the garlic will have time to rehabilitate itself and please with full-fledged heads.

climate troubles

The reason for the yellowing tips of the leaves may be early frosts in the fall, if the garlic is winter, or return frosts in the spring. The task of the gardener in this case is not to treat, but to support the plant. We prepare herbal infusion: we dump all mowed grass, weeds, vegetable trimmings from the kitchen into a barrel of water, add ash. Components can be taken in a free proportion - what is, then we throw it away. The plant mass should occupy at least half of the capacity. We insist from 4 days to hot weather up to 2 weeks in cool. We dilute 1 liter of herbal dressing with water up to 10 liters and water the beds.

Preventive measures: plant garlic to a depth of more than 5 cm, mulch the garden bed. If autumn drags on and seedlings appear before frost, cover with a second layer of mulch on top. Planting time is maximally delayed by winter. It is believed that the clove should take root before frost. But the ground does not immediately freeze by 5 cm, even when the temperature drops below 0, and under mulch this process takes much longer. Therefore, with the advent of minuses, the plant has at least another week left for rooting.

Prolonged drought and lack of watering can also cause yellowing and further drying of the leaves. This does not have a serious effect on head mass growth, but the plant needs help. You can feed it with herbal infusion or a solution of salt and ash. Pour the ash into a container with water, mix well and insist for a day. Add salt, thoroughly dissolving the precipitate. Proportion: 1 bucket of water: 200 g of ash: 100 g of salt. Spray after sunset, after 1 hour sprinkle with a hose.

Another extremely rare climate problem that causes garlic to turn yellow is blind or mushroom rain. The drops that settle on the leaves act as lenses through which the sun burns the plant tissue. The same effect causes overhead watering in sunny weather.

Garlic turns yellow due to acidic soil - how to water?

It is better to work with acidic soil before planting plants on it. You can add lime dolomite flour, a piece of chalk. After processing, the site must be dug up and watered so that the nutrients are at the level of the roots of future crops. Supporters natural farming use green manure - rye and mustard. After the growth of the green mass, it is mowed and plowed into the ground. After a month, you can start planting, the acidity index is much lower.

When the garlic has sprouted, digging is unlikely, so we will use the ash and ground eggshell. Ash solution we prepare the day before feeding, so that it has time to brew. The shell is added right before being applied to the beds. The proportions are free, such a mixture cannot harm the plants. You can simplify your work and simply scatter the ingredients around the garden, watering well with sprinkling.

Nitrogen deficiency - what to do?

This problem is easy to diagnose, everything starts to turn yellow in the garden. Slurry is infused for at least a week: a liter jar of manure or half a liter bird droppings to a bucket of water. Dilute 10 times before watering. After making, water the area well so that the nitrogen sinks to the roots. You should not get carried away with such fertilizer, nitrates, which are undesirable for humans, are deposited in root crops. And the plant will begin to develop the aerial part to the detriment of the head. Much softer, but also slower acting herbal infusion. In combination with watering, they can feed all crops every 2 weeks.

Garlic turns yellow from fungal infections - how to fertilize?

This is the most serious problem in the garden. Defeating infections is extremely difficult while the plants are in the garden. There are a number of preparations containing copper and chlorine, which sometimes overcome diseases, but chlorine inhibits the planting of garlic, and the accumulation of copper in root crops depresses our bodies. Preventive methods include crop rotation, buying seed from trusted growers, or growing your own healthy garlic from seed in two seasons.

Soaking planting cloves in a solution of potassium permanganate is also used. If the fungus manifested itself at the end of the growing season, you can dry the beds, completely eliminating watering. In case of rain, cover the area with waterproof material. The fungus needs moisture, and garlic does without water before harvesting.

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Yellowing of garlic leaves is the most common problem encountered when growing a crop.

Diagnosis of garlic

To accurately determine the cause of yellowing of the leaves, plant diagnostics are carried out.

1. It is necessary to determine the phase of culture development (shoots, regrowth of tops, formation and growth of arrows, maturation of heads). The size of the plants should correspond to the development phase.
2. visual inspection. In addition to yellowing, pay attention to the presence of damage to the leaves, the presence of insects on them (aphids, small worms).
3. Inspection of the underground part of the plant. Pull out 2-3 yellowed specimens and inspect the bulb and roots for damage, pests, rot.

Diagnosis in most cases allows you to determine the cause of the yellowing of garlic leaves.

Causes of yellowing garlic leaves

Any problems that arise with the growth of garlic are reflected in the leaves. The main causes of yellowing are:

• autumn germination winter garlic;
• freezing;
• soaking;
• lack of nitrogen;
• defeat by a stem nematode;
• rust;
• false powdery mildew;
• Donets rot (fusarium);
• acidic soil;
• yellow dwarf virus.

Timely measures taken in most cases can minimize the risk of crop decline or loss.

Autumn germination of winter garlic

Causes. Too early planted winter garlic sprouts, and when cold weather sets in, it can freeze. Low temperatures in the absence of snow, both the aerial parts of plants and cloves are damaged.

Signs of damage. Shoots in the spring are yellow, stunted, practically do not grow, the roots are partially damaged.

Solution. If the loss of plants is small, then you can try to save them by watering with a solution of growth stimulants (Kornevin, Heteroauxin). If most of the landings are damaged, it makes no sense to save them. In order not to be left without a crop at all, spring garlic can be planted in place of winter.

Early planted winter garlic sprouted in autumn.

Freezing

Causes. Occurs in the spring with return spring frosts. Seedlings of garlic well withstand a short-term temperature drop to -2-3°C. If the frosts are strong and prolonged, then the leaves freeze slightly. In addition, garlic is very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature. The tops can freeze when the difference between day and night temperatures is more than 14-15 ° C. Frosts damage plants in the germination phase and on initial stage regrowth of tops.

Signs of damage. The leaves turn yellow, lose elasticity, droop. If the stem is frozen by frost, it acquires a yellow-green color, the outer tissues, together with the lower leaves, gradually dry out.

Solution. The plants themselves are gradually restored. To accelerate the formation of new leaves, garlic is sprayed with growth stimulants: Zircon (0.3-0.5 ml per 3 liters of water), Gibbersib.

soaking out

Causes. Wetting of the crop can occur in very damp rainy summers, as well as in areas where water constantly stagnates. The soil oversaturated with moisture does not allow air to reach the roots, as a result, the plants begin to experience oxygen starvation. The roots suffocate and die, and then the aerial part also dies. Soaking garlic occurs more often in the spring and at the end of the growing season.

Signs of damage. Plants turn yellow and lie down, the stem is easily separated from the bulb. The clove (or head) itself is almost completely decomposed.

Solution. With constant stagnation of water on the site, the crop is grown in high ridges or ridges. If during the growing season of plants the soil is oversaturated with moisture, then loosening is carried out: the earth is slightly raked from the tops of the bulbs, thereby facilitating the flow of oxygen to the roots.

So that the garlic does not get wet, it is planted on high beds.

nitrogen deficiency

Causes. The shortage of the element is observed in the spring when high humidity soil, as well as during prolonged cold weather. Winter garlic is very sensitive to nitrogen deficiency. Spring varieties almost never experience nitrogen starvation.

Description. Insufficiency of nitrogen nutrition is manifested in the spring during the growth of tops. Plants become pale green, leaves begin to turn yellow. First, the old lower leaves turn yellow, then the younger middle leaves. Plant growth slows down.

Solution. Do a single top dressing with nitrogen. On very poor soils in rainy weather, it is permissible to re-fertilize after 14 days. Seedlings are watered with a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), the consumption of the solution is 3 l / m2. At high soil moisture, dry top dressing is carried out: grooves are made along the rows of garlic, into which urea (2 g / m2) is embedded.

Stem nematode infestation

A very dangerous disease of garlic, the causative agent of which is microscopic worms - nematodes. Their sizes are very small (up to 2 mm). They infect the stem and leaves, feeding on the juice of living cells. They overwinter in seeds and leaf debris. The life span of worms is 50-60 days, 3-5 generations of pests appear per season.

Head of garlic affected by a nematode

Signs of defeat.

1. White dots remain on the bulb at the points of penetration of the worms.
2. Yellow-white stripes appear on the leaves, then the leaves turn yellow, curl and dry.
3. The head becomes loose, the bottom becomes rotten, the roots die off.
4. There is a specific unpleasant odor.
5. During storage, the teeth at the base of the bottom turn yellow and soften.

Control measures only preventive.

• Since the spread of the pest occurs mainly with seed material, the main method of control is careful sorting. seed material. If infested cloves are found, or even if nematode infestation is only suspected, discard the entire head.
• Disinfection of cloves before planting by soaking in water heated to 45 ° C for 10-15 minutes.
• Since some of the pests remain in the soil, it is necessary to plant garlic in the same place no earlier than after 5 years.
• Placement around the perimeter of ridges with garlic marigolds. Their roots secrete substances that repel nematodes.
• Removal of affected plants from the garden.
• Timely weeding.

To combat pests remaining in the soil, Akarin or Fitoverma powder is used. The drug is evenly scattered over the surface of the earth and buried to a depth of 2-10 cm.
Nematicides, previously used to control the stem nematode, are now banned due to high toxicity.

Rust

The causative agent is pathogenic fungi. Winters as spores on plant remains. It affects the leaves, which leads to a significant decrease in the yield of garlic.

Garlic rust.

1. Signs of defeat. The disease can manifest itself in 2 variants.
   At the beginning of infection, yellow-brown stripes and strokes are visible on the leaves. With the progression of the disease, they grow, the leaves turn yellow and dry.
2. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves, which later turn brown-brown.

Control measures consist in spraying plants with fungicides: Fitosporin-M, Bordeaux mixture, Ridomil Gold.
If onion plantings are infected with rust, then preventive spraying of garlic every 2 weeks is carried out with the same preparations.

Downy mildew or downy mildew

A disease caused by pathogenic fungi - peronospores. The disease is especially widespread in rainy summers. In hot summers, peronosporosis practically does not appear.

Signs of defeat.

1. It usually starts from the tops of the leaves, spreading gradually over the entire leaf.
2. Yellow-brown spots appear on the upper side of the leaves, on the lower side they are covered with a whitish-gray bloom.
3. The affected areas are deformed and gradually dry out.
4. Plants are stunted.

Control measures consist in spraying with copper-containing preparations (HOM, Bordeaux mixture, blue vitriol), drugs Ridomil gold, Quadris or Fitosporin M. The solution is prepared in accordance with the instructions in the instructions.

Donets rot (fusarium)

Garlic disease caused by pathogenic fungi. The source of infection is soil or seed material. Warm and humid weather is especially favorable for the development of Fusarium.

Signs of defeat. The disease affects the bottom of the bulb, then spreading to the aerial part.

1. A white coating appears on the bottom and between the scales of the bulb.
2. The heads soften, the roots rot.
3. Brown streaks appear on the stems.
4. In the axils of the leaves, a bloom of white, light pink, pink-purple or crimson appears.
5. The leaves turn yellow from the tips to the base, then turn pinkish brown and die off.

Control measures.

• Good results when the first signs of the disease appear are given by watering with Fitosporin-M (the solution is prepared according to the instructions). Garlic is sprayed with the same preparation when plaque and strokes appear on the leaves.
• When plaque appears on the leaves, they are sprayed with Quadris. The procedure is repeated after 10-14 days.
• To prevent fusarium are required preventive actions: sorting of seed material, dressing of cloves before planting, observing crop rotation, destruction of plant residues.

Donets rot is more susceptible to winter garlic than spring garlic.

Soil acidity.

If from year to year garlic seedlings turn yellow without visible reasons, then it is necessary to check the acidity (pH) of the soil. Plants grow well on neutral or, in extreme cases, slightly acidic (pH 5.5-6.5) soils.

signs.

1. If the soil is acidic, the roots cannot absorb enough nutrients. Shoots turn yellow, plants acquire a yellowish-green color, but do not die.
2. Garlic growth slows down.
3. The heads are formed small and loose.

Solution.

First you need to determine the acidity of the soil. Stores sell special instruments or litmus paper with a color scale. To determine the pH, follow the directions in the instructions. An indirect indicator that the earth is acidic is the growth on the site of such plants as plantain, sorrel, wood lice, horsetail.

If the pH is below 6.3, then liming is carried out. Doses of lime depend on the acidity of the soil, its mechanical composition and the applied lime material.

Doses of lime for various soils (kg/100 m²)

Lime fertilizers are applied in autumn for digging. Limestone and dolomite flour can be used together with organic fertilizers, they deoxidize the soil within 3-5 years. Garlic is planted 2 years after the application of these fertilizers.

The fluff must not be applied together with manure, since as a result of their interaction a significant amount of nitrogen is released, which prevents the heads of garlic from setting. After making the fluff, you can immediately plant winter garlic. But it should be remembered that the duration of the fertilizer is only 1 year.

yellow dwarf virus

The causative agent of the disease is a virus that lives only in living plant cells. Its spread is facilitated by aphids attacking garlic. Bulbs are not affected by the virus and healthy seed material can be renewed from them.

yellow dwarf virus

Signs of infection.

1. Affected plants are very stunted and look like dwarfs.
2. Leaves are gaining yellow and loses elasticity.
3. Longitudinal folds form along the entire length of the leaves.
4. Arrow straightening does not occur.
5. The number of bulbs in the inflorescence is significantly reduced.

Is it worth salting the garlic?

When the leaves turn yellow, many water the ridges with garlic solution table salt. Salt itself (NaCl) does not contain the necessary nutrients for garlic and does not protect plants from diseases. But such watering is not without some sense.

Salt helps to raise some nitrogen into the upper layers of the soil (the soil solution moves from a less concentrated environment to a more concentrated one), and also repels the onion fly, which sometimes infects garlic.

But this effect is very short-lived. After rain or watering concentration saline solution in the soil decreases and the garlic continues to turn yellow.

When garlic leaves turn yellow, it is necessary to use time-tested and experienced means that reliably protect plants from adverse effects.

Why can garlic leaves turn yellow video:

In May - June, many gardeners complain that winter garlic in the garden turns yellow. Let's see why this undesirable phenomenon occurs and what to do in this case. Garlic begins to turn yellow from the tips of the leaves, and this is the first sign that something is wrong with the plant. It is important to take action in time to help the garlic recover and form large, fragrant heads.

Why does garlic turn yellow in May - June?

The reasons may be the following:

• winter garlic fell under severe frost, which often occurs in May - early June;
• fungal disease on the bulb (easy to check - pull out and inspect the bottom);
• the plant lacks nutrients (most often the garlic leaves turn yellow if there is not enough potassium and nitrogen);
• insufficient watering (this often happens in June, when it is already warm enough);
• too dense soil, poor oxygen supply to the roots (loosening is necessary);
• pests - onion fly and secretive proboscis (they can be detected with the naked eye).

Have you figured out the reason? Then take immediate action! 😉

What to do? Feed!

The most common causes of yellowing garlic in practice are - return frosts and nutrient deficiencies. The first thing to do is feed the plants. Top dressing will strengthen them, help them recover faster after frost, and replenish the supply of nutrients in the soil. Garlic fertilizers can be applied dry, as well as by watering under the root or spraying the leaves with liquid solutions.

Dry feed. The soil between the rows of garlic must first be loosened, then cut grooves with a depth of just a couple of centimeters and pour urea (urea) or complex granules there. mineral fertilizer with a high nitrogen content. Fertilizers sprinkle with earth and thoroughly water the bed with garlic. Watering is indispensable here, since plants consume nutrients only in dissolved form. Finally, the bed can be mulched with compost to retain moisture in it.

Root feed. Water is poured into a bucket and 1 tablespoon of urea (with a slide) or a complex mineral fertilizer, for example, Fertiki Lux, is dissolved in it. The resulting solution is watered with garlic, from a watering can or bucket. Solution consumption: 10 liters per 1 square meter of plantings.

Top dressing. For spraying the leaves, potassium sulfate is used (this microelement is also often lacking in garlic) or complex fertilizers. The norm for preparing a solution of potassium sulfate: 1 teaspoon per 1 liter of water. Complex fertilizers dissolve, according to the instructions on the package (for irrigation and spraying, as a rule, dosages are different).

Important!

• In May, garlic needs more nitrogen supplements, and in June - potassium-phosphorus.
• You can also water yellowed garlic with folk remedies: ammonia solution or wood ash (they will be discussed below). Ammonia is a source of nitrogen, and ash is a source of potassium and phosphorus. In addition, both substances reduce the acidity of the soil, which is very important for garlic.
• It is important to regularly loosen the soil and remove weeds from the garlic bed. In dense, rough soil, garlic grows worse, turns yellow. And the weeds create comfortable conditions for the development of fungal diseases.

After frost the preparations "Epin" and "Zircon" help the plants to recover. And if the garlic is noticeably affected by return frosts, it is expedient to carry out processing by these means. And to prevent freezing of garlic leaves and, as a result, their yellowing, in early spring the bed should be covered with spandbond.

The garlic turns yellow, which means it's sick!

If the lower garlic leaves are covered yellow spots is peronosporosis. Over time, the feather becomes slimy and disappears. You can also see mold on the underside of the sheet. A similar picture is observed not only in garlic, but also onions.

Treatment with Quadris, Fitosporin, Trichodermin, Gliocladin will save you from peronosporosis, they suppress the development of the fungus. Enhance immunity and resistance various diseases also help top dressing. Diseases more often affect weak plants, and strong and well-groomed - nothing at all!

Another nasty disease that often affects garlic is rust. It manifests itself in the form of rusty spots on the leaves, which then cover the entire plant. Treatment with fungicides "Oksih", "Ridomil", "Bravo" helps.

The reason for the poor "well-being" of garlic and yellowing of the leaves can also be too acidic soil in the area. AT acidic soil the plant looks oppressed, weakened, does not grow well, because the assimilation is disturbed nutrients. You can deoxidize the soil with lime, dolomite flour or chalk, in advance, and not immediately before planting. Since the plant is weakened in acidic soil, it is more susceptible to attack by pests and diseases. That is why it is so important to pay attention to this parameter.

Folk remedies (how to pour yellowed garlic)

In the arsenal folk remedies for feeding garlic are most often used ammonia and ash.

Ammonia is a source of nitrogen for plants. An aqueous solution of ammonia is often poured over onions and garlic for the purpose of feeding, as well as increasing resistance to diseases and pests. The solution is prepared in the proportion of 2-3 tablespoons of ammonia per 10 liters of water. Watering garlic with ammonia is more relevant in May, since it is in spring that garlic has a high need for nitrogen. And in June, potassium and phosphorus are needed. Ammonia is useful not only for garlic, but also for the soil. It reduces its acidity and improves its structure, which is very important, because one of the reasons why the tips of garlic leaves turn yellow is too acidic soil.

The most dangerous and common pests of onions and garlic, which can not only damage the leaves, but also destroy the entire crop, are onion fly and secretive proboscis. And here ammonia will again help out (the proportions are the same)! You need to water three times, with an interval of 10 days.

Ash- a source of potassium and phosphorus. For irrigation at the root, 1 cup of ash is diluted per 10 liters of water and insisted for 1-2 hours, and for spraying, an extract is prepared in the proportion of 1/2 ash per 10 liters of water. If the soil is sufficiently moist and it rains regularly, the ashes can simply be scattered on the ground, lightly patched up with a loosener. Together with the rains, fertilizer will penetrate to the roots.

Hydrogen peroxide spray on a feather of garlic and onions at the rate of 1 liter 2 tablespoons. Restores yellowed leaves after freezing.

Garlic has been known to man since ancient times, it was not only eaten, but also used for medical purposes, as a medicine. In our time, perhaps, there is no such gardener who would not have garlic on the site.

Garlic: features of varieties

Garlic comes in 2 varieties:

1. winter, which is planted before winter (individual cloves in open ground autumn).
2. spring - planted in the spring.

Winter garlic differs from spring garlic in that the first one already has a future green arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible if a cross section is made. Spring garlic does not release an arrow. Its reproduction occurs by cloves. Outwardly, they also differ: winter contains one row of 4-6 large slices, and spring - has 2 rows of small ones.

Gardeners noticed that mostly yellowing winter garlic.

Why does garlic turn yellow in the garden?

• Deep landing. Do not plant winter garlic cloves deep in the ground, this can lead to freezing and the appearance of yellow leaves. Therefore, landing is best done at a depth of 5 cm.
• Lack of nitrogen. This cause can be easily corrected if you feed the plant with nitrogen fertilizer in early spring (if you do this in the fall, then some of the fertilizer will be washed out of the soil). Liquid manure, urea is quite suitable for this.
• Acidic soil. Such a soil is absolutely not suitable! The soil should be sufficiently moist and enriched with oxygen. Neutral ground will do.
• If the garlic began to turn yellow, then you need to water the soil often and loosen it constantly.
• Bad planting material. This can also be one of the reasons for the appearance of yellowness. planting material it is advisable to update every year, otherwise the accumulation and development of viral diseases may occur.
• Lack of watering. To prevent your garlic from turning yellow, be sure to water it. This is especially important in May - June, when green mass is being formed.
• The cause of yellowing may be a violation of the timing of planting garlic.
• Various pests, diseases. Such ailments include white rot, stem nematode, which appears in wet weather, fungus. With fungal diseases, brown-yellow stripes appear on the leaves. The head of garlic itself is covered brown spots, the bottom of the head becomes soft.

There are many reasons for the yellowing of the tips of garlic leaves, it is important to identify the problem in a timely manner and eliminate it.

Read also:

Garlic turns yellow: what to do?

In order to avoid the appearance of yellowness on the leaves, be sure to use only healthy teeth that have been processed when planting. special preparations(Maxim, Fundazol). Never add fresh manure to the soil, be sure to alternate planting crops in the same place.

It is also very effective to water the ground or planting material with a solution of table salt.

It is prepared based on 10 liters of water. Take 3 tbsp. l salt and 0.5 kg finely chopped fern leaves. Mix all this and rub well, strain. Immerse the cloves in the solution for 15-20 minutes. Then, they can be planted without washing. You can also use a solution of potassium permanganate for preventive purposes. Planting material is soaked overnight, drained in the morning and planted during the day.

Remember, it is better to take care of prevention in advance than to treat the consequences.

• It is good if mint, thyme, calendula are planted next to the garlic.
• To reduce acidity, lime the bed before planting or sprinkle dolomite flour on it in early spring. After that, loosen the earth.
• You can pour the garlic with a solution of ash (1 tbsp per bucket of water). Even better, if you prepare an infusion of 1 kg of ash and 10 liters of boiling water. Insist at least 3 days. When watering, add 1 liter of product to 1 bucket of water.
• When planting any plants in your garden, remember one rule - the key to a good harvest is to observe the change of crops. Not suitable for planting garlic after onion, potatoes, which have common diseases with them. It will be possible to plant it in its original place only after 5 years, not earlier.
• Having found out the cause of the disease of the plant and eliminated it, do not forget about fertilizing with fertilizers. This is prerequisite for good growth and development of garlic. If garlic turns yellow on your site, you need to choose the right way to feed the plant. You can use nitrophoska, urea or nitrate.