Types of mineral fertilizers, names and descriptions. Mineral fertilizers

Fig, fig, fig tree - these are all names of the same plant, which we strongly associate with Mediterranean life. Anyone who has ever tasted fig fruits knows how delicious it is. But, in addition to a delicate sweet taste, they are also very healthy. And here is an interesting detail: it turns out that figs are completely unpretentious plant. In addition, it can be successfully grown on a plot in middle lane or at home - in a container.

Quite often, difficulties in growing tomato seedlings arise even in experienced summer residents. For some, all seedlings turn out to be elongated and weak, for others, they suddenly begin to fall and die. The thing is that it is difficult to maintain in an apartment ideal conditions for growing seedlings. Seedlings of any plants need to provide a lot of light, sufficient humidity and optimal temperature. What else do you need to know and observe when growing tomato seedlings in an apartment?

Delicious vinaigrette with apple and sauerkraut - a vegetarian salad of boiled and chilled, raw, pickled, salted, pickled vegetables and fruits. The name comes from a French vinegar sauce, olive oil and mustard (vinaigrette). Vinaigrette appeared in Russian cuisine not so long ago, around the beginning of the 19th century, perhaps the recipe was borrowed from Austrian or German cuisine, since the ingredients for the Austrian herring salad are very similar.

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Not all gardeners can boast of the presence of organic raw materials in the form of manure, litter. Not everyone has time to prepare compost and green manure.

People living in a private house, having a large farm in the form of animals and birds, as well as a large land plot– can afford to keep a source of organic fertilizer and at the same time grow vegetables and fruits.

All the rest, who occasionally travel out of town, can use mineral fertilizers - their types allow you to choose mixtures for each type of soil and for crops separately.

Mineral fertilizers- these are top dressings in the form of salts of inorganic origin. They are also called chemical fertilizers. The source is natural minerals that are mined industrially, as well as substances obtained artificially.

Mineral fertilizers are a good substitute for organics

There are one-component, two-component, three-component and multi-component compositions of mineral fertilizers. This means that the composition includes 1, 2, 3 or more components, the main of which are nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. Auxiliary - calcium, sulfur, magnesium, boron and other trace elements necessary for plants to grow.

Advantages of mineral mixtures:

• are cheaper;
• easier to get;
• small doses are used;
• can be selected for specific plants and soil types.

The effect of the use of mineral fertilizers is no different from the effect of organic matter, but when using mineral dressings, it is necessary to strictly observe the dosages of the substance, that is, to be guided by the gardener's golden rule: it is better to underfeed a little than to overfeed and destroy the plant.

Types and characteristics of mineral fertilizers

The types can be classified as follows:

• nitrogen containing one component - nitrogen;
• potassium, consisting of potassium salts and microadditives;
• phosphoric are salts of phosphoric acid or natural minerals;
• mixtures having an equal composition of active substances or other proportions.

Video: Distinctive features and methods of applying mineral fertilizers

Most often, types of mineral fertilizers are used that have a complete composition - nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus, since this eliminates the need to calculate how much and what is needed for a specific piece of land. Each type of mineral fertilizer corresponds to the type of soil on which the additives will be most effective.

Potash

Potassium types of fertilizers contain a large amount of potassium salts, other additives may be present in microdoses. Such mono-fertilizers are recommended for all types of soils, but especially for sandy and sandy loam. Potassium salts are mined industrially from natural minerals - carnallite and sylvinite.

There are two varieties - potassium chloride and sulfate. Chloride must be applied to the soil in the fall so that chlorine harmful to plants disappears during the winter. Such a mineral fertilizer is not suitable for spring application. Potassium sulphate is suitable for all plants and can be used at any time of the year.

Phosphoric

The main mineral for fertilizers is phosphorus, isolated from natural phosphorites and apatites. There are many types of phosphorus compounds that are used in complex mixtures:

• superphosphates and double superphosphates - soluble in water;
• precipitate - dissolves in a weak acid solution;
• metaphosphate is an insoluble or sparingly soluble compound;
• tomasshlak - acid is needed for dissolution;
• ammophos and diammophos are substances that are sparingly soluble in water.

Phosphate fertilizers are varied and suitable for all types of soil

Water-soluble substances are suitable for all types of soils and plants. Semi-soluble and sparingly soluble have an advantage in acidic soils- there their action is stronger.

In order for phosphate mineral fertilizers to be well absorbed by plants, the soil must be saturated with potassium and nitrogen.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen types of fertilizers, their classification:

• nitrate forms - calcium or sodium nitrate;
• ammonia form - ammonia water;
• ammonium - sulfate or ammonium chloride;
• ammonium nitrate - ammonium nitrate;
• the amide form is urea.

Nitrogen substances, which also belong to mineral fertilizers, form the basis of plant nutrition, contribute to the set of green mass. Without sufficient nitrogen supply, the leaves are yellowish or pale green. The efficiency of nitrogen increases if the soil is well fertilized with phosphorus and potassium.

Video: How to properly feed plants with nitrogen

Nitrogen is often included in the composition of mineral fertilizers, which are called complex. In such mixtures, the amount of nutrients is maximally balanced.

Complex mixtures

Complex mineral fertilizers receive different ways – chemical reaction by mixing simple components. The concentration of active substances is very high, so the consumption of fertilizers is small. For different types of soil, you can choose the appropriate mixture for the optimal balance of nutrients.

What is a complex mineral fertilizer - these are mixtures that contain 2 or more kinds of salts. Distinguish:

• nitrogen-phosphorus mixtures;
• potassium-nitrogen;
• nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium compounds.

When applying to the soil, you need to know the needs of garden crops. If necessary, you can adjust the mixture yourself, adding those substances that you need more. But with a rich choice of names and compositions of fertilizers for plants, this is not required.

Complex mineral mixtures should be tried to be applied in spring or summer, since active nitrogen loses its qualities during the winter and it will be necessary to re-fertilize the land with nitrogen fertilizer

Two-component

Apply in the spring, as the composition includes nitrogen, which is most effective in plant growth. The need for this type of fertilizer is determined by the type of soil. If the plants are constantly lacking in potassium, it is recommended to feed them with nitrogen-potassium mixtures several times during the growing season. If phosphorus is washed out of the soil, then nitrogen-phosphorus.

The names of complex mineral fertilizers that can be found in gardening stores are: potassium nitrate, ammophos, ammophosphate, nitroammophoska, diammophos, nitrophoska.

Potassium nitrate contains two components - potassium and nitrogen

Some fertilizers that have a low percentage of nitrogen and consist mainly of phosphates can be applied in the fall.

Three-component

Mixtures, which are also called complete mineral fertilizers. All three necessary elements - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, are in it in equal proportions, or some components are more, some are less. It is necessary to focus on the needs of plants.

Complete mineral fertilizer, which includes all macronutrients, can fertilize absolutely all soils and garden crops. It is possible to combine types of organic and mineral fertilizers in one area, introducing minerals in the fall, organic matter in the spring, while reducing the dosage of minerals by 2-3 times.

Names: azofoska, ammophoska, nitrophoska, diammofoska.

Multicomponent

Multi-component nutrient mixtures consist of the main elements and microfertilizers: calcium, boron, magnesium, zinc, sulfur, copper, iron, molybdenum, manganese and others. On poor soils, such compounds are indispensable - they protect plants from diseases and allow you to get good harvest annually.

Micro-additives should be considered as additional support on various soil types. For example:

• zinc - for alkaline soils;
• copper - on swampy soils and peat bogs;
• manganese - for chernozem regions with an alkaline soil reaction;
• boron - on sandy soils;
• molybdenum - for acidic soils.

Multicomponent formulations contain trace elements in addition to the main elements

Knowing the characteristics of the soil in your area, you can optimally select a multi-component mixture and use it throughout the entire period of growth and fruiting of crops.

Trace elements (microfertilizers)

Microfertilizers can be found not only in multicomponent fertilizers. One and two-component substances, complex microfertilizers are on sale.

Micronutrients are consumed by plants in small quantities. They are used both for root application and for foliar top dressing - by spraying. In this way, the deficiency of a certain element can be quickly eliminated.

Microfertilizers can be used for foliar top dressing, and add under the root

What can be found on sale from complex microfertilizers:

• Reacom;
• Master;
• Oracle;
• Sizam.

This type of top dressing is sold in liquid and dry form, which must be diluted with water to the desired concentration, which is described in detail in the instructions.

The effect of mineral fertilizers on the soil

Many gardeners are afraid to use mineral fertilizers because of the popular legend about the dangers of nitrates. Similar stories are told by people who violated the instructions. There is an assertion that poison differs from medicine only in dosage - the same can be said about mineral fertilizers.

There are several rules, subject to which safety for human health is guaranteed.

1. Do not exceed manufacturer's recommended dosages. If there is a need to mix several types of mineral fertilizers, then it is better to take a minimum of both. In case of deficiency, you can always make a weak solution of fertilizer and apply to the leaves.
2. 2 weeks before the removal of the fruits, feeding with mineral mixtures must be stopped.
3. Overdue mineral complexes do not use.

Healthy soil without an excess of nitrates is the result of using mineral mixtures strictly according to the instructions.

It is worth knowing that excess dosages have a bad effect on the plant itself - the roots can burn out if fertilizers are applied incorrectly. Moreover, this applies equally to both minerals and organics. You can disrupt the growth and destroy the plant by using top dressing according to the principle: the more, the better.

It is not recommended to use acidic mineral fertilizers without periodic liming. This can adversely affect plants - the number of beneficial bacteria in the soil will decrease, which will lead to a decrease in the humus part.

This happens because the microflora also needs minerals for nutrition, therefore, if their amount is not exceeded, then it will be enough to feed both plants and microorganisms.

Acid mineral dressings are carried out along with liming

In the case of naturally high soil acidity, it is necessary to use organic matter that shifts the pH towards alkalinity. As an option - alternate mineral and organic complexes. For example, wood ash, bone meal, which can also be bought at the store.

K category: Plant propagation

Types of fertilizers

All fertilizers are divided into mineral, organic and bacterial. There are also microfertilizers. To use them, you must have the appropriate knowledge, since only reasonable use will be effective.

organic fertilizers

Such fertilizers enrich the soil with easily soluble nutrients and humus, improve it physical properties and structure, as well as activate the vital activity of the necessary microorganisms.

Organic fertilizers include the well-known wagon, bird droppings, compost, shavings, sawdust and so-called green fertilizers.

The most common is considered to be manure. It's cheap, affordable and useful material for fertilizer. Dung in the bol! contains microorganisms that help! to bake the decomposition of organic matter into separate, easily assimilated elements by plants. It also contains cobalt, copper, molybdenum, boron and manganese.

Bird droppings are less popular, but contain more nutrients, which allows you to reduce the amount of top dressing.

Green manure consists of crushed annual leguminous plants mowed during the flowering period. They are usually buried in the ground and used in this way to cultivate the land. This top dressing improves the subsoil layer and enriches it with nitrogen and other elements.

Compost provides the soil with nutrients. It can be prepared independently from various organic wastes, i.e. haulm, sawdust, dried leaves, pond sludge, yard waste and much more. Manure, peat and bird droppings are often added to the compost.

Wood sawdust and shavings are used mainly to make the earth loose. These fertilizers are very dry and absorb nitrogen, so it is necessary to water the soil with a solution of chicken manure or urea before applying them.

Particular attention should be paid to the harvesting and application of organic and other local fertilizers to the soil. All types of manure, peat composts, humus, ash are widely used.

Manure- This is a fertilizer that contains almost all the nutrients necessary for plants. Horse manure and bird droppings are richest in them. The richer organic fertilizer in elements mineral nutrition, the lower the application rate. For most vegetable crops, it is justified to apply manure in the fall, and for cucumbers, rutabaga, celery in the spring, based on (for cattle manure) 40-60 kg / 10 m2. Carrots, onions, green crops grow better in the second year after making fresh manure. It should be borne in mind that in protected ground it is better to use straw manure of cattle or horse as a biofuel or fertilizer, but liquid manure and chicken manure are more suitable for liquid top dressing or composting for a number of reasons.

Humus- this is very valuable fertilizer obtained more often as a result of the complete decomposition of manure. You can make humus for all crops at the rate of 40 - 60 kg / 10 m2.

Peat it is most expedient to use for making composts or as a loosening material on heavy soils. Composts are mixtures of peat with manure, peat with plant remains, including with fallen leaves, with the addition of slaked lime and mineral fertilizers. Composts are prepared long time(from a year to two), during which they are repeatedly shoveled and moistened. For the winter, composts, like manure, are placed in dense, non-freezing piles. contribute to this and different kinds shelters, including straw, sawdust, and on top of them - snow. Make composts for spring digging. Peat-fecal composts can be used not earlier than 9-12 months after their laying. At the same time, vegetables obtained from areas where such composts were applied must be thoroughly washed before use. hot water. These composts are best used for tomatoes, cucumbers, pumpkins, peas, but it is highly undesirable - for leafy vegetables (lettuce, spinach, parsley, etc.). The application rate of all composts is 30 - 60 kg / 10 m2.

Mineral fertilizers

Such fertilizers contain even more nutrients, needed by plants, and are divided into two groups: simple and complex.

Simple mineral fertilizers are those that contain one element. Complex ones contain two, three or more nutrients.

Mineral fertilizers are also divided into groups according to the content of elements: nitrogen, potash and phosphorus!

Nitrogen fertilizers contain one of the most important nutrients, nitrogen, in a form readily available to plants. Its excess in the soil adversely affects humans, animals and pollutes the environment, so it is necessary to strictly adhere to the application standards.

The most common nitrogen fertilizers include ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate) and carbamide (urea). Ammonium nitrate is a universal fast-acting fertilizer. It acidifies the soil. Carbamide is absorbed by plants gradually, so it is better to apply it in the spring. Ammonium sulfate strongly acidifies the soil, is well fixed in it.

Potash fertilizers help plants absorb carbon dioxide, and also promote the movement of hydrocarbons and increase resistance to frost and drought.

The most common are potassium chloride, potassium salt and potassium sulfate. Potassium sulphate does not contain magnesium, sodium and chlorine, which are harmful to plants.

Phosphate fertilizers increase the resistance of crops to frost and drought. They must be introduced into the soil as deep as possible, because phosphorus is inactive.

The best is superphosphate. This fertilizer works quickly and is well absorbed by the roots. For greater effectiveness, it can be mixed with organic fertilizers.

Ash combines potassium and phosphorus. In addition, it does not contain chlorine. It alkalizes the soil.

Complex mineral fertilizers, which are also called complex, include potassium nitrate, ammophos, diammophos, nitroammophos, nitrophos, azophos, karbofos, etc.

Potassium nitrate is suitable for bulbous and perennials. Nitroammophos is used for fertilizing perennial, bulbous and annual crops. Ammophos is mainly used to prepare the soil for planting.

Lime fertilizers are often used: slaked lime and chalk. The efficiency of their introduction increases if they are well crushed. First they need to be mixed with compost or manure.

A mixture of fertilizers should be prepared immediately before applying it to the soil.

Mineral fertilizers Most of them are fast acting. Their application rates are determined taking into account the fertility of the soil, the exactingness of the vegetable crop and the content of the nutrient (active ingredient) in the fertilizer.

As can be seen from the table, purchased potash and phosphorus mineral fertilizers can be completely replaced with ash. To avoid leaching of potassium from it, it is necessary to store the ashes in a dry place. Phosphorus fertilizers are more justified to apply from autumn, and most the rest - in the spring. Note that on heavy clay soils the entire norm of mineral fertilizers is applied once before sowing, and on light sandy fertilizers, repeatedly, fractionally, since the nutrients from the latter can be easily washed out with rain and irrigation water.

Under potatoes, cucumbers, beans and tomatoes, it is desirable to apply fertilizers that do not contain chlorine. So, instead of potassium salt, it is better to add ash or potassium sulfate, and instead of ammonium chloride - carbamide (urea).

Bacterial fertilizers

Such fertilizers increase the fertile properties of the soil and convert nitrogen into a form available to plants.

Bacterial fertilizers include nitragin, azotobacterin, phosphorus-bacterin, etc. Nitragin is a mixture of bacteria that live on the roots of leguminous plants and are able to absorb nitrogen from the air. This drug should be dissolved in water before being applied to the soil. In the resulting solution, the seeds are moistened.

Phosphorobacterin contains bacterial spores mixed with kaolin, which can release phosphorus from organic compounds.

Azotobacterin is made up of soil microorganisms that absorb nitrogen from the air and convert it into useful compounds. Apply this drug only in moist soil. The AMB preparation contains microorganisms capable of decomposing organic substances and releasing ammonia from them.

Microfertilizers

Preparations related to this type of fertilizer contain elements necessary for plants: manganese, iron, zinc, boron, copper, molybdenum, etc. They help fight fungal diseases. They must be introduced in very small quantities. The most common are boric and manganese fertilizers, as well as iron sulfate.

They are used for spraying trees and shrubs.

trace elements

vegetable plants often suffer from a lack of microelements such as boron, molybdenum, and copper in the soil. They are especially important for cauliflower, table beets and other plants. In these cases (with a lack of trace elements in the soil, it is advisable to use the treatment of cauliflower seeds, for 5-6 hours with boric acid at the rate of 0.3 g/l, potassium permanganate 0.5 g/l, molybdenum 1 g/l. The same fertilizers can be applied to the soil as part of a commercially available fertilizer mixture with microelements, including, in addition to those mentioned, also copper, as well as up to 10% nitrogen, up to 20% potassium.

Not all fertilizers can be mixed before being applied to the soil. In order not to be mistaken, it is easier to make them separately.

By the type of plants, with some training, you can learn to determine the lack of nutrients in the soil. Below are the names of the substances and the signs that indicate their deficiency.

Nitrogen - the leaves are small, pale green, turn yellow, fall off early.

Phosphorus - leaves are dark green or bluish, with a red tint, drying out, almost black.

The potassium-edges of the leaves turn yellow, turn brown and die off, twist down, the leaves are wrinkled.

Calcium - apical buds and roots are damaged and die.

Magnesium - the leaves brighten, acquire a yellow, red or purple color at the edges and between the veins.

Iron - the leaves are pale green, the tissues die off, lightening-chlorosis appears between the veins.

Copper - the tips of the leaves turn white, chlorosis appears.

Boron - the apical buds and roots die off, flowering does not occur, the leaves fall off.

Dosage of fertilizers

Many gardeners complain that when using organic and mineral fertilizers, their dosage is often determined by eye.

Required measuring instruments sometimes not at hand. Meanwhile, there are peculiar weight standards in everyday life. Here are some of them.

A bucket with a capacity of 10 liters contains organic fertilizers in kilograms:
fresh mullein - 9, wood ash-5, bird droppings-5, humus - 8, peat (dry) - 5.

ordinary matchbox contains mineral fertilizers in grams: granular superphosphate-22, urea-15, potassium nitrate-25, ammonium nitrate -17, ammonium sulfate -17, wood ash -10.

A faceted glass (without a rim) is equivalent in volume to ten matchboxes.

- Types of fertilizers

You don't have to be a certified agronomist to be a good gardener. But good gardener must understand the basic nuances of growing plants, as well as know what types of fertilizers exist, how and when they need to be applied. Without fertilizer, it is impossible to get a good harvest, as soils that were once filled with various nutrients become depleted over the years.

What is fertilizer

Plants extract from the soil the elements they need to grow and develop. These are micro- and macroelements that play a certain role in the development of plants. The lack of any element, whether it be cobalt, phosphorus, manganese or potassium, affects the well-being of the culture. Many novice gardeners are interested in why, what fertilizers are for.

Not always the soil can provide all the necessary elements. This can happen due to soil depletion, illiterate crop rotation, regional scarcity of soil cover. It is necessary to artificially improve the condition of the soil, but for this you need to understand what fertilizers are needed.

The use of fertilizers is necessary to fill the missing niche in plant nutrition. Many gardeners call chemical fertilizers field vitamins. They contain nutrients in the form of compounds. Plants can absorb these compounds from the soil through ion exchange.

Fertilizer classification

The classification of fertilizers implies a division according to various criteria, chemical composition, origin. To fully understand the division into types and subspecies, you should familiarize yourself with the following table:

What are fertilizers? Fertilizers are divided into 4 large groups:

1. Organic.
2. Inorganic (mineral).
3. Bacterial.
4. growth stimulants.

Consider the types of fertilizers and their classification in more detail.

Types of organic fertilizers

Organic fertilizers include substances of animal and vegetable origin. The main types of organic fertilizers:

• Peat.
• Bird droppings.
• Green manure.
• Straw.
• Manure.
• Compost.

These dacha fertilizers are usually local, stockpiled and prepared in the same place where the crop is grown. Such fertilizers have a multifaceted effect on the condition of the soil. At correct application crop yields are rising. Organics serve as a source of nutritious mineral components. They decompose in the soil, emit a large amount of carbon dioxide, which saturates the ground layer of the atmosphere and the soil.

With the regular application of such fertilizers, the soil is cultivated, its physicochemical, physical and biological indicators improve. The physiological basis of the use of fertilizers can improve the development of the root and ground systems of the plant, increase productivity.

Appointment of organic fertilizers

Types of organic fertilizers:

Manure. This fertilizer when planting crops has great importance. Manure with regular use increases the content of humus, improves absorption capacity, buffering. It is also a constant source of microorganisms that increase the nitrogen content. Effective use of manure in spring and autumn.

Dung slurry. Manure diluted with water contains about 0.4% nitrogen and 0.6% potassium. You can collect 2 tons of slurry from one large animal. It's valuable nitrogen-potassium fertilizer for fruit nutrition. It is also used for other cultures.

Bird droppings. About five tons of raw manure can be obtained from every thousand chickens. It contains about 90 kg of phosphate, 75 kg of nitrogen, 45 kg of potassium, 150 kg of magnesium and calcium compounds. For fertilizer, the litter is dried and ground. Dried manure has twice the nutritional value of raw manure.

Peat. Good as a fertilizer and also for mulching. It differs in the nature of the vegetation that composes it, the conditions of formation, and the degree of decomposition.

Compost. This is a mixture of organic fertilizers. Biological processes take place in it, which contribute to increasing the availability of nutrients for plants. Soil preparation is not complete without compost. It takes three to nine months for compost to mature. If peat is a component of the compost, its moisture content should be about 70%.

Green manure of the earth. These are plants that are planted as fertilizer in the soil. The process is called sideration. Legumes or cereals are often used as green manure crops. Their main task is to introduce organic matter into the soil, which is easily mineralized and serves as a source of nutrition for crops.

Straw. Surplus straw remains at many rural enterprises. It is a valuable organic material. It contains carbon, phosphorus, nitrogen, potassium, copper, molybdenum, cobalt, zinc, manganese, boron. Straw cutting is buried in the soil by 8 cm, then manure is applied. This allows you to increase the content of nutrients in the soil, improve its chemical properties.

Types of mineral fertilizers

Minerals include the following types fertilizers:

• potassium;
• phosphoric;
• nitrogen;
• complex;
• trace elements;
• specialized fertilizers without chlorine, which is harmful to certain groups of plants.

Properties of mineral fertilizers

Simple mineral fertilizers are those fertilizers in the formation of which did not take part Live nature. Natural raw materials (nitrates, phosphorites) and wastes of some industrial enterprises, for example, ammonium sulfate, which remains as a result of the production of nylon and coke chemistry. There are liquid and solid mineral fertilizers on sale. Plants are sprayed with liquid.

There are complex (combined) and simple fertilizers. In simple ones, there is only one trace element. Combined fertilizers contain two or more elements, for example, the elements nitrogen, phosphorus. There are macrofertilizers, consisting of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, calcium, sulfur, magnesium. Plants consume these macronutrients in significant amounts. Microfertilizers (manganese, zinc, boron) are consumed by plants in smaller quantities, but they are also necessary for normal plant growth, like macrofertilizers.

Nitrogen fertilizers. Needed by plants to create vitamins and chlorophyll. With a lack of nitrogen, the leaves lose their intense green coloring, become light, the growth of shoots weakens, the leaves become smaller. During the growing season, nitrogen is absorbed by plants unevenly. During the period of enhanced growth, more nitrogen is needed. In dry weather, an abundance of nitrogen can harm the plant.

Lack of nitrogen does not allow the plant to accumulate enough carbohydrates, and this reduces frost resistance. AT autumn period too much nitrogen can cause harm by prolonging the growing season. What fertilizers to apply? At this time, you need to introduce potassium and phosphorus nutrition. Get nitrogen fertilizers from nitric acid and ammonia. The most commonly used ammonium nitrate, it goes on sale in the form of granules. Fertilizers and fertilizing with it are effective on alkaline and acidic soils. Another view nitrogen fertilizers is urea. It contains 46% nitrogen, it has the best properties compared to ammonium nitrate.

Phosphorus fertilizers. Phosphorus increases plant resistance to low temperatures and drought. Positive effect on plants. It increases the content of fats, sugar, proteins. The lack of phosphorus causes a violation of protein metabolism. At the beginning of growth, when seedlings are just emerging, plant nutrition with phosphorus is simply necessary. It is also needed at the time of fruiting. Contribute phosphate fertilizers mixed with humus.

Fertilizers are obtained during the processing of ore, as well as from waste from metallurgical production and, in small quantities, from animal bones. Simple superphosphate - apatite or phosphorite flour with sulfuric acid. It is used for fertilizing fruit and other crops. The lack of fertilizer is the presence of gypsum in it. Does not contain gypsum double superphosphate. Red phosphorus is of great interest. This is a concentrated phosphorus-containing product, introducing it into the soil, you can provide it with nutrients for many years.

potassium fertilizers. Main raw material for production potash fertilizer- mineral sylvinite. Potassium promotes the movement of carbohydrates, affects the keeping quality of fruits, absorbs carbon dioxide from the air. If there is not enough potassium, the resistance of plants to diseases decreases. Highly important role potassium plays in top dressing fruit plants. When making them add alkali.

Microelements. The lack of microelements (magnesium, iron, boron, cobalt and others) can nullify the gardener's work. The metabolism of plants will be disturbed, young shoots will die off, mottled leaves will appear, and crown transparency will appear. Popular microfertilizers: humate, cobalt sulfate, boric acid, potassium permanganate.

Complex fertilizers. Available in different combinations of various trace elements. Effective: Azofoska, Nitrofoska, Gomel fertilizer. Complex fertilizers are applied to the soil when preparing it for planting.

Non-chlorine fertilizers. These are specialized fertilizers designed for specific crops. The composition of fertilizers is balanced.

Bacterial fertilizers

Preparations that contain microorganisms that improve plant nutrition are bacterial fertilizers. Contains no nutrients. For production, pure cultures of bacteria are propagated in a favorable environment, then released in the form of a dry powder or peat mass. Nitragin, which contains a culture of nodule bacteria, is widely used.

Growth stimulants

Recently, gardeners and gardeners have increasingly begun to use growth stimulants. They accelerate the rooting of plants, reduce fruit fall, and increase yields. Examples of growth stimulants: Root feeder, Bison, Root mixture, Kornevin, Micrassa.

How to feed plants

The frequency of top dressing, the amount of fertilizer applied, their type, depend on the composition of the soil, a particular plant, and the growing season. A mistake can lead to an overabundance of substances in the soil, the death of the crop. Before fertilizing, consult with experienced gardeners carefully read the instructions on the package.

Probably everyone knows that fertilizers are divided into organic and mineral.

Of the organic ones, you can list: manure, humus, compost, bird droppings, lake silt, ash, peat.

Minerals according to the action of chemicals are divided into nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. In addition, there is complex fertilizers, which include several balanced active ingredients. There are also horticultural mixtures, which, according to manufacturers, are successful mixtures of various organic and mineral fertilizers.

Compost

This compost can partially replace mineral fertilizers. One ton of compost contains 30 - 40 kg of nitrogen, 20 - 30 kg of phosphorus, 15 - 20 kg of potassium ... Compost is a homogeneous loose mass from dark brown to black. And most importantly, the use of biocompost guarantees the ecological purity of the resulting agricultural products!

Compost preparation technology provides for 5 - 6 - day biofermentation bird droppings, peat and sawdust at 70 - 80°C while maintaining all the nutrients contained in the original components. As a rule, when preparing high-quality composts in rooms or "fermenters", such composting regimes are established in which conditionally pathogenic and pathogenic microorganisms, weed seeds, and helminths die. Thus, the development of pathogenic fungi and bacteria - pathogens of diseases of plants, humans, birds and animals is excluded.

For your information: according to scientifically - research institutes tubercle bacilli in manure (not heat treated) can remain viable for 5 years.

The nutrients in the compost are in a form easily digestible for plants and are not lost in the soil. At the same time, it is known that during the storage of manure or bird droppings for 1.5 - 2 months, nitrogen losses can reach 30 - 60 percent of its total content. This valuable and expensive element escapes into the air or is washed out of the soil, getting into groundwater, and then into our bodies in the form of nitrates. Furthermore! The use of, for example, fresh manure or manure leads to the clogging of fields with weed seeds and the spread of life-threatening diseases to people and animals. The latter is also facilitated by the draining of liquid from farms into ravines and gullies, which causes their stable pollution, and sometimes even infection. And this is not only environmental and economic, but also social problems.

Composts

Composts are fertilizers obtained as a result of the decomposition of a mixture of various organic substances. The main components for composting are peat, manure, slurry, bird droppings, leaf litter, weeds, plant waste from harvesting, etc.

Well-decomposed compost usually contains a small amount of hemicelluloses and a few more celluloses with an almost unchanged lignin content. The presence of nitrogen in them is important for the process of decomposition of plant waste: the decomposition of nitrogen-poor materials during composting proceeds slowly, and in the soil such waste reduces the content of mineral nitrogen. Therefore, when composting, it is advisable to add easily soluble forms of nitrogenous substances to such wastes as straw, sawdust, fire, containing little nitrogen (0.7 to 1 kg of nitrogen per 100 kg). Then the microbiological processes proceed normally and make it possible to obtain good quality compost.

Preparation of peat manure compost

Composting manure with peat reduces the loss of nitrogen contained in manure and converts part of the nitrogenous compounds into a more accessible form for plants. These processes take place provided that the temperature in the compost is maintained at 60 - 65°C. Therefore, such compost should not be compacted. Prepare peat manure compost in the following way. For 1 weight part of manure in winter time take the same amount of peat, in spring and summer - 1.5 - 2 times more. For this purpose, you can use any kind of existing peat with a moisture content of 60 - 65%. Peat and manure are laid in layers or mixed. A layer of peat 25 - 30 cm thick is laid at the base of the stack. The alternation of layers of manure and peat is continued until the stack reaches a height of 1.3 - 1.5 m. From above, the compost is covered with a layer of peat of 25 - 30 cm. Stacking should be completed within one day. The width of the stack should be 2 times its height. When laying manure and peat mixed, the base of the stack is also made on a peat cushion 20–25 cm thick. Next, mixed manure with peat is laid with a height of 1.3 - 1.5 m and covered with a layer of peat of 25 cm from above.

Well-prepared peat-dung compost in terms of its effect on the yield of fruit and berry and vegetable crops is not inferior to ordinary manure, and often surpasses it.

It is useful to add phosphorite flour to peat-manure compost at the rate of 20-30 kg per 1 ton of composted mass, and in the case of using acidic peat, various lime fertilizers.

The norms for applying compost for individual crops are the same as for manure, or somewhat lower.

Preparation of peat compost

First of all, peat is laid in two adjacent shafts in such a way that a recess is formed between them with a layer thickness at the point of contact of the shafts of 35 - 40 cm. Slurry is poured into the recess from a tank or barrel at the rate of 0.5 - 1 t (depending on the type and moisture content of peat) per 1 t of peat. After the slurry is absorbed by the peat, the mixture is raked (stacked) into piles without compaction. Any type of peat is used for laying such compost. Phosphorite flour can be added to peat-liquid composts at the rate of 15–20 kg per 1 ton of compost. The temperature of the compost in the pile rises to 55 - 60°C due to loose stacking. Peat actively absorbs ammonia and reduces the loss of nitrogen from peat compost during storage. In turn, the slurry, having an alkaline reaction, contributes to the dissolution of peat humates and to an increase in the digestibility of its nitrogenous compounds by plants.

In spring - summer cooking peat-liquid composts mature within 1-1.5 months. They can be applied to any culture.

Preparation of peat compost

Peat-fecal composts are prepared in the same way as peat-liquid composts, however, they are best prepared directly on drained peat bogs, which are first loosened, leveled, and then raked into rolls 0.4-0.5 m high, feces are introduced and covered with peat. After 2-3 months, the composts mature.

It is important that the process of composting faeces with peat proceeds at a temperature of 55 - 60 ° C, which favors the neutralization of compost from helminths and pathogenic microflora. Peat and fecal composts vegetable crops can only be used for the second year.

Composts from peat, slurry and faeces sometimes have a higher positive effect on the crop than ordinary manure. Their effectiveness increases when used together with phosphate rock.

Composting manure with earth

Manure - earthen compost is prepared by adding to manure when it is stacked in piles up to 30% of the Earth. Due to the absorption by the Earth of ammonia released from manure, the loss of nitrogen and organic matter in the compost is reduced. According to available data, manure-earth compost loses nitrogen 3 times less than manure composted without soil. Mixing with manure of the Earth contributes to the preservation of nitrogen in the compost even if the compost remains on the soil surface for a long time.

Why compost manure with phosphate rock?

Manure composting with phosphate rock causes more vigorous humification of organic matter, reduces nitrogen losses and increases the availability of phosphorus for plants, which leads to an increase in the efficiency of both components.

Manure - phosphorite composts are obtained by adding 15 - 20 kg of phosphate rock per 1 ton of manure. Phosphorite flour can be applied to manure when stacking it, as well as directly in livestock buildings before cleaning them.

How to effectively use superphosphate?

Superphosphate is used to bind ammonia nitrogen in bird droppings. When 10% superphosphate powder is added to raw manure, nitrogen losses during storage are almost completely eliminated. Bird manure compost enriched with superphosphate is a highly concentrated fertilizer, so its doses should not exceed 50 kg per 100 square meters. m of fertilized area.

Why compost manure with superphosphate?

Manure - superphosphate compost binds nitrogen of ammonium carbonate and free ammonia of manure into non-volatile forms. Each centner of superphosphate binds and stores about 4-5 kg ​​of nitrogen in the compost.

Superphosphate is added to manure during stacking - 20-25 kg or more per 1 ton of manure. Manure composted with superphosphate generally contains more ammoniacal nitrogen than normal manure. The efficiency of this compost is higher than the equivalent amount of uncomposted manure and superphosphate.

Manure - superphosphate compost is applied under potatoes in the amount of 100 - 120 kg per 100 square meters. m of area, for fruit - berry crops- 200 kg per 100 sq. m.

How to make compost from household and vegetable waste?

Prefabricated composts are prepared from household and agricultural waste of organic origin: vegetable and potato tops, weeds, weeded or mowed seeds before ripening, fallen leaves, household organic garbage. For laying composts, a site is chosen that is not filled with melt and rainwater. A layer of peat or fertile soil is poured, compostable material 20–25 cm thick is placed on it, it is covered with peat or Earth, and the compostable material is laid again, bringing the height of the stack to 1.5–2 m. 5 kg of phosphorus and potassium and 10 kg of lime. The layer of stack cover with peat or earth is at least 15 cm. When laying the stack, it is necessary to moisten the material, but not compact it. For moistening, it is better to use slurry or feces. After 2 - 3 months compost heap shovel. Ready compost should be a homogeneous dark decomposed mass.

What do you need to know for proper fertilization?

Firstly, what nutrients are necessary for plants, in what quantities and what role do they play in the life of plants, how does the deficiency or excess of this or that element affect the state of plants and their appearance.

Secondly, what does your Earth need: this can be found out by analyzing the soil of the site in an agrochemical laboratory. Such an analysis will tell about the acidity of the soil, its need for liming, as well as the content of useful and toxic elements in it. And thirdly, you need to know how to correctly calculate the dose of fertilizer, how plants grow and develop, and in what phases of growth it is necessary to provide plants with one or another nutrient in the form of root or foliar dressings ...

If melt water stagnates on the site in spring, try to give the site an even or slightly convex profile so that spring waters could quickly subside until the soil thawed and the Earth, having thawed, could breathe. Dig drainage grooves along the edges of the site with access to a deeper drainage channel. Even if your garden plot not in a swamp, but simply on your site an increased level ground water, then the Earth begins to turn sour rather quickly, which is expressed in compaction, overgrowing of the soil with sorrel and moss, and finally acquiring a bluish tint and the consistency of very viscous clay with an unpleasant sour smell. How to deal with it? Below is a list of simple but essential steps.

If your site is low. It is possible that your site is simply lower than the surrounding sites. Where to get a lot of fertile land in order to raise the site? The easiest and cheapest way is to bring several machines of fine sand. But just do not pour it into the beds, unless you have solid clay. Pour sand under the beds, that is, on the site of the beds, discard the fertile Earth to the side, bring the trench to the depth of the trench to 1, 5 - 2 x bayonets of a shovel. Pour in enough sand so that about one height of the bayonet is left to the level of the bed you need. Now cross the fertile Earth back. Loosen the rough, sour Earth from a depth of 1.5 - 2 x bayonets and take it to the side, let the year lie down in a heap, deoxidize, aerate. After a year, before winter, it can be scattered over the dug-up area with a layer of 1 - 2 cm. Note that the sand will also act as a drainage layer, so it's a good idea to bring it closer to the drainage grooves at the edges of the site. Performing such an operation even with one bed per season, in a few years you will greatly raise your site while simultaneously increasing its fertility. The depth of the fertile layer in one bayonet is enough for most agricultural crops. If you need to dig a landing hole, just scatter the dug sand around the site before winter. Do not forget that the landing hole must be dug to about half the depth, sand should be poured into the bottom. Be sure to plant apple trees on mounds, compensating for depth landing pit. As the apple trees grow, you will add mounds around the perimeter

Winter digging. And this is especially important for heavy, overmoistened and coarse soils - a mandatory continuous digging before winter. This digging cannot be replaced only by spring, it's like " key moment"Digging is deep, large clods of the Earth do not need to be loosened. Under the influence of air, atmospheric moisture and frost, clods of soil are crushed, saturated with oxygen. As a result of complex reactions, the Earth becomes loose, nutrients become available to plants. If you want to quickly increase soil fertility, scatter on top of the dug-up soil, manure (you can’t do without it), any, even not rotted, will do.It is only necessary to sprinkle the scattered cakes with the Earth (or even fine sand, if you have peat or greasy loam) with a layer of several CM (no more than 5 CM). During the spring digging, you will see how many earthworms - fertility generators - will breed under each manure cake. Also add the necessary doses of dolomite, lime, superphosphate, potassium chloride.

Gentle tillage, deep loosening. It should be noted that if you have a fertile, well-drained, large quantity earthworms, then a more gentle tillage is applied. Instead of autumn digging ground cover plants are planted (still on the main crop) to protect against leaching of nutrients by rains in autumn - spring. These plants can serve as green manure, that is, they are dug up in the spring. In addition, they help protect vegetables from nematodes. In the spring, light soil is loosened with a pitchfork only slightly shifting the layer. Deep loosening is done as follows: they stick the forks vertically, tilt them towards themselves, then, pressing the forks a little more into the Earth, they pull the handle forward, shifting the soil layer away from themselves. Heavy soil is dug up in the classical way. But once again I note that sparing tillage is only suitable for cultivated loose, well-drained, fertile soil. For rough soils prone to acidification, winter digging of the soil should be carried out with the introduction of large doses of organic fertilizers for the development of beneficial soil microorganisms.

Spring digging. Here you need to carefully loosen the clods of the Earth. Carry out deep loosening as described above. Next, the surfaces are loosened with a chopper or cultivator for about half a shovel, closing up ash, compost, and fertilizers. Manure is used only rotted

The removal of nutrients from the soil with the crop. Now the soil in your area is saturated with air and fertilized to a greater or lesser extent. But getting a certain harvest every year, we deprive the Earth of part of its fertility. In addition, nutrients are taken out with tops, foliage, branches. The question arises - how much and what kind of fertilizers should be applied so that fertility not only does not fall, but also increases.

Plants according to the consumption of nutrients in - in can be divided into three groups:

Consuming a lot of nutrients in - in,

moderately consuming,

And little consuming nutrient in - wa

Plants of the first group (cabbages, pumpkins, tomatoes, potatoes, etc.) require very well-fertilized beds, some allow the introduction of unrotted manure. The following year, these beds will have enough nutrients in - in for growing plants with moderate consumption (beets, carrots, onions, garlic, strawberries, etc.). It is only required to introduce humus and a small amount of mineral fertilizers into the planting furrows. In the same way, with the introduction of humus and small amounts of mineral fertilizers into the planting furrows in the third (and even fourth) year, these beds can be used for low-consuming plants (radish, not head lettuce, peas, table greens, etc.). Further, the beds should be very well filled with humus, fertilizers. Fallen leaves Fallen leaves turn into excellent compost in just one season. And there are almost no pathogens. You can use this compost for backfilling planting holes and grooves. But last year's foliage can be immediately embedded in the beds. Best for cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, etc. But the depth of planting fallen leaves for cucumbers is about 10 cm. Foliage should be well moistened and nitrogen fertilizers added, because fallen leaves contain little nitrogen. The result will be great leaf earth widely used in the garden and for potted plants. So harvest more free fallen leaves, just not in cities, and not along highways.