Diseases of indoor orchids and their treatment. Urgent resuscitation at home

Orchid is beautiful and amazing flower, which appeared 120 million years ago, while it reached its peak of popularity only 3 thousand years ago. This flower is native to China and Japan. This plant was first brought to Europe about 2 centuries ago, and today there are over 40 thousand varieties of orchids. With the help of scientists and breeders, today it is possible to grow an orchid at home.

Phalaenopsis, the most popular orchid hybrid, is a rather susceptible and capricious flower to various diseases. Therefore, in addition to proper care and growing experience, it is necessary to consider all orchid diseases and how to treat them.

It often happens that phalaenopsis starts to hurt due to excessive maintenance. Therefore, the most popular diseases are non-communicable diseases that are associated with illiterate care. Very often, these diseases lead to the weakness of the bush, its death, or the formation of pathogenic organisms and pests.

Description of the Phalaenopsis hybrid

Phalaenopsis is considered one of the most common orchid varieties - the most popular hybrid in our country. This plant can have a wide variety of flower buds (from pure white to dark blue with various spots and patches on the leaves). Orchids can be of various sizes, number of leaves, and also have no fragrance.

Number of flowers per plant significantly depends on the state of the orchid itself, as well as the number of branches and can be in the range of 6-35 pieces on one branch. This plant can be quite successfully grown at home. Phalaenopsis has a single stem shape with compacted leaves. different shapes and species, and also there is only one point of growth.

This hybrid requires the same careful care as their other representatives. Since these species are the most common in cultivation, it is necessary to tell in more detail about their various phalaenopsis diseases with descriptions and photos.

Phalaenopsis is the orchid variety that most often becomes infected with non-infectious leaf diseases. The appearance of Phalaenopsis orchid disease is explained by illiterate care. However, there are other pests of the bush: bacterial spotting, rot, various viruses, anthracnose, fusarium.

Let us consider in more detail the diseases of orchids and their treatment, as well as photos of various diseases.

Non-infectious diseases of this plant are considered the most frequent. Often, gardeners complain that the leaves of orchids begin to turn yellow, and soon and completely their bush receives yellow tint. The reason for this may be illiterate care. This happens for the following reasons:

Phalaenopsis, like any kind of orchid, needs good and high-quality lighting. Lack of lighting can lead to a significant deterioration in the condition of orchids: the stems of the flowers are rapidly stretched upwards, the leaves get a pale green tint.

These plants are the most susceptible to any disease. And direct exposure to the rays of the sun contributes to the formation of yellowing of their leaves.

Phalaenopsis orchid is much less likely to become infected viral diseases. These diseases are distinguished by the manifestation of spotting in the form of a mosaic on the petals of the buds and the leaves of the flower. This spotting may resemble the shape of lines, circles, arrows. When you see signs of a viral disease in an orchid, then first of all it must be isolated from healthy plants. Be sure to show the infected phalaenopsis to a specialist, if this is not possible, then take at least a photo. In the event that your guesses are confirmed, then it is best to burn this flower in order to prevent healthy bushes from being damaged.

Spotting on the leaves of a bud is considered the first signal that the orchid has begun to get sick with a fungal or bacterial infection. As a rule, it is the Phalaenopsis variety that is affected by a bacterial infection. Everything happens with the yellowing of foliage, which after a certain time gets dark color and becomes very flexible. After the leaves are covered with wet ulcers, of which liquid substance flows out. Salvation from this infection can only be the cutting of infected leaves, and you also need to cauterize the place of the cut with iodine.

There are also more potent drugs, their use occurs at a very advanced stage. If two weeks after cutting, no new spots have formed on the orchids, then the plant is no longer infectious, and it can be safely installed on a window with others.

Anthracnose

It is also a fairly common disease that manifests itself on Phalaenopsis leaves. First appear small round spots, which after a while begin to blacken and differ in a concave surface. After a certain time, a pink or yellow coating appears on these spots. The reason for the formation of anthracnose is considered to be high air humidity, as well as the prolonged presence of water in the leaf axils.

To prevent the formation of this disease, you need to periodically ventilate the room. Air humidity in the room should be no more than 65%, but not less than 45%. It is also advisable to blot accumulated water in the leaf axils. When affected by anthracnose, the infected leaves are removed, and the cut points are cauterized with iodine. Treatment with such means as Skor, Ritomil, Mikasan is carried out already at an advanced stage of the disease.

powdery mildew

This is very . The disease appears in the form of a purple-white bloom on the foliage. Outwardly, the flower looks as if plant sprinkled with flour. This is a rather dangerous disease that can lead to the death of the bush. The reason for the formation is considered to be high air humidity and elevated temperature, and this leads to the steaming of the plant. For preventive purposes, Fitosporin is sprayed.

The treatment of this disease of the Phalaenopsis orchid is carried out by spraying with Skor or with a mixture of colloidal sulfur. But first, the plant needs to be carefully watered, and after a few hours, the treatment process can begin.

Rust

Pretty rare disease rust too is a fungal infection for orchids. This disease, like those described above, infects the leaves of Phalaenopsis. As a rule, weak bushes are exposed to this disease. Rust appears in the form of spots from the inside of the leaves, which very soon take on a reddish tint. This is the sporulation of fungi, which have a reddish tint, hence the name of the disease - rust.

Treatment methods are quite similar to those used for the diseases described above. Infected areas must certainly be removed, and the sections should be treated with a 25% alcohol solution. Orchid treatment is carried out by spraying with Mikasan, Skor and Ritomil.

Black fungus or sooty

Also often pests infecting the orchid. They are: scale insects, worms, and also aphids. This fungus appears in the form of a black plaque on sweet flower formations. These pests prevent the passage of light to the flower by clogging the stomata of the foliage.

Among other representatives of this type of pests, the worm is the most dangerous. This insect has an oval appearance, and its size can be about 4 mm.

There are two varieties that a worm has that can infect phalaenopsis:

• The bristly bug is a pest that has a pronounced reddish body color and an oval shape with a snow-white coating.
• Citrus bug. It is a pest that varies in color from orange to black, but is usually pink with a distinctive snow-white bloom. largest size body can be up to 6 mm.

The worm is very similar to the scale insect, but at the same time it lacks a shield. Both varieties secrete honeydew, a sweetish liquid that protects them from various external factors. The worm is a rather malicious pest, and if measures are not taken in a timely manner to remove it, then the orchid may die.

The worm harms the plant so much that it manages to suck all the juice out of it, and at the same time adds poison to the flower. These substances weaken the bush, which leads to leaf fall or yellowing.

The formation of sticky drops and a snow-white coating on the foliage is the first sign that a worm has wound up on the orchid.

It infects only weak orchids that are grown in insufficient conditions for this plant. Often these pests are formed on bushes overfed with nitrogen. As a rule, the mealybug infects flowers in winter, at this time the daylight hours are significantly shortened, and the flowers do not have enough light. Also, this pest may appear with the acquisition of a new flower. Therefore, when buying an orchid, you must be especially careful and attentive.

For prevention, a fairly popular remedy is based on neem tree oil. It is used only for prevention, since treatment with this drug will not show a positive effect.

You can also use the hot shower method. The meaning of this method is to water the orchid warm water 45-55 gr. Since these pests die at a temperature of more than 40 degrees, this option is very effective in treating the plant. Scale insects also often infect orchids.

Viral and fungal infections phalaenopsis can lead to the formation of rot. The process of rotting of the roots, as well as the foliage of the plant, takes place. The cause of decay can be increased high humidity and temperature.

Treatment consists in repeated processing of roots and soil. 0.3% composition of foundationazole or 0.2% benlate mixture. It is necessary to completely lower the orchid into this substance. The interval between sessions must be at least 2 weeks.

Rot

A common disease of phalaenopsis is considered gray rot. This rot appears on the foliage in the form of brown and black spots with a fluffy formation. The reason for the formation of rot is considered to be high air humidity, and for prevention it is advised to use Kendal when watering. It increases the resistance of the plant to various diseases. In case of infection of the orchid with rot, it is necessary to carry out spraying with fungicide. And with a secondary lesion, it is advised to use a different fungicide, since rot spores adapt to the means used.

1. The formation of black rot takes place on plants that are already infected with pests and diseases. In order not to completely destroy the plant, you need to remove the affected areas and foliage, and soak the cut areas with colloidal sulfur.
2. Fusarium rot infects the leaves of the plant, after a while they begin to turn yellow and curl up. The leaves get a grayish color. Treatment is carried out by completely immersing the orchid in a 0.3% mixture of foundationol. This procedure is required to be carried out within 2 weeks.
3. A characteristic feature of brown rot is the infection of young leaves of orchids. Rot appears in the form of bright brown formations that grow very quickly and become a rich brown hue. The methods of struggle are exactly the same as with other types of rot. And for prevention, you can spray with a light solution of vitriol no more than once every 30 days.

Summing up, we can say that when elevated temperatures and excessive moisture need to ventilate the room more often, do not install orchids very tightly together, make sure that the water does not stay on the foliage for a long time. Watering and spraying orchids is necessary only at the beginning of the day. Preferably put in a room with big amount and overcrowding of plants, the fan and let it work at least in the hottest time. This can help prevent a lot of problems and different kind diseases.

Orchid diseases

Looking at the photo of the Phalaenopsis orchid, few flower growers will remain indifferent to this spectacular flower. In addition, these plants are relatively unpretentious in care. However, they can also be affected. dangerous disease or harmful insects. In this case, the life of the orchid depends on the correct treatment.

• 1 What conditions are required for the Phalaenopsis orchid
• 2 Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids
• 3 Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

• 4 Phalaenopsis orchid disease control
• 5 Ways to Control Phalaenopsis Pests
• 6 How to repair a damaged Phalaenopsis orchid

What conditions are required for the Phalaenopsis orchid

Most often, the poor health of an orchid is signaled by its leaves: they begin to turn yellow, wither, dry out. It doesn't always mean illness. Novice amateur flower growers are faced, rather, with a violation of the rules of care.

With good care, the Phalaenopsis orchid will delight you with abundant flowering.

Orchid owners should be mindful of the natural aging of the flower. Phalaenopsis loses one or two lower leaves every year.

Yellowing of the leaves of the Phalaenopsis orchid may be due to natural processes in the plant

Required level of illumination

Phalaenopsis orchids do not tolerate direct sunlight, but they love good lighting. That's why the best place for their placement there will be a window sill on the east or west side of the room.

On the south window, an orchid of this species must be shaded, moving away from the glass or covering it with a screen from a source of direct light.

Do not forget that proper growth and healthy development are possible with 12-15 hours of daylight. From mid-autumn and all winter, install over orchids additional lighting, for example, a phytolamp. This light source is the best option, it does not damage the leaves. The only rule is that the lamp should be no closer than 20 cm from the plant.

If the leaves have darkened, become soft and elongated, then this indicates a lack of light.

Install additional lighting for orchids for the winter

External factors: temperature and humidity in the room

Orchids are tropical flowers, they need warmth. For Phalaenopsis, you need to maintain the room temperature within 20–25 ° C. The minimum allowable for an orchid (and then in certain cases, for example, during a dormant period) is not lower than 12 ° C.

The ideal humidity level for this type of plant is 70–80%. It is difficult to achieve such an indicator in the entire room, and besides, it is not very useful for people. The best option there will be regular airing of the room (but do it carefully, Phalaenopsis do not tolerate cold drafts) and increase the humidity in one of the following ways.

Proper watering

For a Phalaenopsis orchid, it is better to use water:

• rain;
• settled for at least a day;
• boiled;
• passed through a household filter.

If you wrap 10 g of peat in cheesecloth, dip this bag in 10 liters of water and leave for a day, this will soften the water.

Watering rules:

If the problem is clearly beyond acceptable limits, and is not related to aging or care errors, you will have to look for the cause in the disease and pests.

Video: about the rules for caring for orchids

Table: diseases and pests characteristic of Phalaenopsis orchids

Table: how to make a diagnosis by external signs

Phalaenopsis orchid disease control

More often appearance Phalaenopsis orchids suffer from improper care. If you notice this in a timely manner and begin to correct the situation, the plant will quickly get stronger and take on a healthy appearance. But if time is lost, then fungal, viral and bacterial diseases, which can very quickly destroy the orchid.

The consequences of violating the rules of watering: why the leaves become lethargic and fall off

Phalaenopsis orchids are accustomed to high humidity indoor air. Many novice flower growers try to compensate for the lack of moisture with frequent and plentiful watering. This is fundamentally wrong: in Phalaenopsis, from such an attitude, the leaves lose turgor and crumble.

If this happened during the hot season, do the following:

• wait for the substrate to dry and continue to water the flower every 2-3 days;
• maintain the required humidity;
• in the middle of the day, use a fan, placing it 2-3 m from the plants and turning it on at low power.

In winter, water Phalaenopsis no more than 2 times a week, and carry out ventilation by opening windows daily for 30 minutes. It is advisable to do this in not too windy weather.

Edema: what can cause the root system to rot

Low room temperature, abundant watering and water ingress on the leaf plate can lead to the development of edema on the leaves of Phalaenopsis. Because of this, over time, the roots begin to rot. In the cold season, keep orchid pots away from window sills, reduce watering, and remember to remove excess water from the pan.

Leaf edema may appear due to prolonged contact with water.

Exposure to low temperatures: why dark spots appear

IN winter time Phalaenopsis orchids need years special care because they are not cold hardy. Keep the plant warm (at least 16°C) and regularly ventilate, avoid spraying. Otherwise the leaves will be covered dark spots fungal origin.

Phalaenopsis orchid leaves may die from exposure to low temperatures

If you bought a Phalaenopsis orchid in a store and brought it home in the autumn winter period, you may run into another problem. The flower is hard to adapt in cold weather, its leaves are frostbitten and covered with white spots. Cut off the affected areas to healthy tissue and sprinkle the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

Fungal diseases: why rot or white bloom appear on the plant

Most often, we owe the development of fungal diseases on an orchid to improper watering, non-compliance with the temperature regime and excessive humidity. Most of all, Phalaenopsis is susceptible to powdery mildew, anthracnose, gray rot, and less often to rust.

Bacterial diseases: for what reason leaves turn yellow or darken

Of this type of disease, the Phalaenopsis orchid is most often affected by brown spotting. As soon as you notice yellowing, darkening or softening of the leaves, the appearance of ulcers with a sticky liquid, immediately cut out the infected areas completely. Grease the edges with iodine.

Viral diseases: is it possible to save the plant

Phalaenopsis orchids are not sufficiently resistant to viruses, and if they become infected, then it is very difficult to cure them. Most likely, the diseased plant will have to be destroyed, since one hundred percent effective drugs and there are no ways, and the virus can easily spread to neighboring flowers. If you see mosaic-like spots, circles and stripes on the leaves, show the orchid to a specialist who will confirm or refute the diagnosis.

Mosaic spots on a Phalaenopsis leaf indicate a viral disease

Photo gallery: diseases characteristic of the Phalaenopsis orchid

Brown spot most often affects Phalaenopsis orchids

Rot plows the roots and neck of the orchid

Fungal diseases are dangerous for Phalaenopsis

With powdery mildew, the leaf is covered with a white coating

Video: care errors that cause orchid diseases

Phalaenopsis Pest Control Methods

Having purchased an orchid in a store, do not rush to immediately put it on the window, where other flowers are already located. On the plant and in the substrate may be insects, and often dangerous.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests can infect the plant itself or the root system.

Thrips: who leaves light paths

Since Phalaenopsis is thermophilic, it is most often grown indoors with high temperature. Tiny thrips (their size is no more than 2.5 mm) also love warmth, so they are happy to settle on almost all types of orchids. The problem is that it is difficult to detect insects: they usually hide in the substrate. Their presence is evidenced by black dots and silvery paths on the leaves.

Thrips destroy the entire plant: juices are sucked out of the leaves and stems, larvae are laid in the roots.

Having found traces of thrips activity, carry out the following activities:

Shields and false shields: where did the sticky spots come from

As soon as you see characteristic brown or yellowish tubercles on the stems and leaves of an orchid, you should know that the plant is affected by a false shield. Such plaques are not always immediately noticeable, but they are the "house" of an adult female insect.

The larva of the false shield crawls over the plant in search of suitable place, after which it sticks to it, pulling out the juices, and eventually becomes covered with a brown film-shield.

Larvae and adults feed on the juices of the flower and leave behind a sticky liquid, which becomes a good environment for the development of fungi and rot.

Shchitovka is also often found on Phalaenopsis. Its shell cover is denser than that of the false shield, rounded-convex and covered with a wax coating. The effect on the plant is almost the same.

Shields and false shields are similar to each other, and affect orchids in the same way

Ways to solve the problem

• wash the plant thoroughly with soapy water;
• remove the remaining pests;
• treat the plant and substrate with Aktellik or Fitoverm solution;
• spray again after 7-10 days;
• transplant the flower into a new substrate.

Mealybugs: what is the cause of withering leaves

Phalaenopsis orchids can be significantly affected by the mealybug as this pest is not easy to detect. small white insect with an elongated body covered with fluff, it hides at the roots, bases of leaves and at their junctions. The worm sucks the juice from the plant, leaving behind a powdery liquid. You can definitely notice them when the leaves of the flower dry out.

What to do to get rid of the mealybug

• completely remove dry leaves and roots from the orchid;
• carefully examine all hidden areas of the plant, select all pests found using toothpicks;
• every day inspect the orchid for new worms;
• regularly wipe all affected areas with soapy water;
• treat the substrate 2-3 times at weekly intervals with Fitoverm;
• all month examine the orchid. If you do not find new individuals, then the problem is solved.

Whiteflies: why the leaves withered

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by tiny white butterflies themselves and their larvae. Due to their impact, the flower weakens, the leaves dry. Adults lay their larvae in roots and on leaves.

To fix the problem, you need:

• wash the orchid and substrate with soapy water;
• spray the plant with Fitoverma solution, repeat after a week.

Aphids: because of which it is difficult for the plant to breathe

The tiny insects themselves are not so much dangerous to the orchid as their excrement. The secretions cover the leaf with a sticky layer, blocking the plant's breathing and becoming a convenient environment for bacteria and fungi.

The remedy is as follows:

• wash the plant with soapy water;
• treat the plant and substrate with Fitoverma solution.

Ticks: who entangled the buds with cobwebs

An orchid can become infected with ticks both at home and in a greenhouse. There are 3 types of spider mites. In fact, they are almost identical and affect the plant in the same way: they make numerous punctures of the leaves, through which they suck out the juice. These traces are clearly visible on the leaf plates, which begin to dry, turn white and discolor. The buds are falling off.

Spider mite elimination

• collect all the ticks from the orchid by hand;
• thoroughly wash the flowerpot and the window sill under it;
• Treat the entire orchid and substrate with Fitoverma solution. Repeat treatment after a week.

Nematodes: what is the reason for stopping growth

Very small nematode worms no larger than 2 mm in size penetrate the stems and roots of the orchid, feed on its juices and poison the products of their vital activity. The orchid stops growing, rots.

Photo gallery: Phalaenopsis orchid pests

Phalaenopsis orchids are harmed by both adults and whitefly larvae.

Traces of the mite cover the entire surface of the leaf

Mealybugs are not easy to spot between orchid leaves.

In the presence of nematodes, the Phalaenopsis orchid stops its growth

Due to the sticky secretions of aphids, the respiratory process is difficult in orchid leaves.

Thrips suck all the juices out of the orchid

How to repair a damaged Phalaenopsis orchid

If your orchid almost died and only roots or leaves are left, you can still revive it in several ways.

Resuscitation of a flower without roots

You can simply build up the roots from the neck of the leaf. To do this, you need a nutrient fluid consisting of:

Step by step process

Resuscitation after insufficient watering

With a lack of moisture, the roots of the orchid begin to dry, and the leaves wither. If improving the irrigation regime did not help, you need to use the following method. You will need:

• sphagnum moss;
• a plastic bag of the required volume, preferably with a horizontal lock;
• boiled water room temperature;
• any B vitamins (you can use succinic acid).

Process description

Video: orchid resuscitation

Leaves for an orchid are important components of its life. They, together with the root system, take part in photosynthesis, absorb light. It is through the leaves that the flower "breathes": at the bottom of each sheet plate microscopic pores that absorb oxygen and moisture are concentrated. In addition, the leaves signal that the flower is sick and needs additional nutrients.

How to understand that problems have begun?

A healthy leaf plate has a saturated green color and dense structure. You can notice certain problems if you carefully consider the phalaenopsis.

You need to start treatment immediately if the leaves:

Once a year, the orchid sheds foliage, but not all, but only 2-3. At the same time, the plant itself is absolutely healthy and can bloom. This is normal, as the already obsolete parts of the orchid dry out, and after a while new ones appear in their place.

What ailments can affect the leaves and how do they look in the photo?

Most often, phalaenopsis orchid leaves affect non-infectious diseases that occur against the background improper care.

Only after a thorough examination of the flower, you can understand the cause of the pathological process:

1. yellow foliage underneath- lack of moisture or errors in keeping in winter.
2. Yellow spots or white dots- rot, pests or powdery mildew.
3. wilted foliage- aphids, mites, bacterial spotting.
4. sticky spotting- aphids, bacterial spot and powdery mildew.
5. black spot- rot, spider mites or improper watering in autumn and winter.
6. Soft and wrinkled leaves- Pests, bacterial spot and Fusarium rot.
7. leaf rot- Fusarium rot, which arose against the background of improper watering.
8. red leaves- pests, rot due to improper moisture in the cold season.
9. Twisting- pests and rot.
10. Edges turn black- bacterial spotting.
11. Mold- pests.
12. Silver plaque- gray rot, powdery mildew and pests.
13. white bugs- pests that arise against the background frequent watering or high humidity.

What causes problems and how to determine the source?

Most often, problems with phalaenopsis arise as a result of improper care. To understand what a flower lacks or what it has in excess, you need to know optimal conditions to keep the plant.

The main causes of damage to the leaves can be identified:

Step-by-step treatment instructions: what to do to restore tissue turgor?

Consider how exactly to return turgor to plant tissues, improve leaf blades and save the flower.

If a continuous plaque and bubbles have formed

Bubbles and a solid white loose coating are a signal of improper care. In most cases, phalaenopsis reacts this way to a decrease in temperature or an excess of moisture. Solid plaque and stickiness on the leaf plate indicates a lesion with a scab. This pest infects lower part sheet.

You can save the plant if you take the following actions:

1. Treat the affected leaf plate with a swab to eliminate pests.
2. Wash the flower with soapy water.
3. When the purification is carried out, then increase the humidity in the room.

In addition to the scale insects, spider mites can infect phalaenopsis.

To fight it you need:

1. Remove all insects from the surface of the leaf plate.
2. Thoroughly wipe the window sill and rinse the pot.
3. Spray the plant with Fitoverm.
4. Increase the humidity in the room for the entire period of rehabilitation.

Got sticky

Began to turn yellow and wither

A similar process occurs when there is not enough moisture. In addition, it is recommended to check for drafts near the phalaenopsis. It is from them that the roots and leaves are frostbitten, and the flower dies. It is much worse if rot occurs. In this case, the trunk will darken, and the leaves will wither and turn yellow. You can save a flower if:

1. Remove it from the ground and inspect the root system.
2. Remove from it all the roots that have dark points or do not absorb moisture when immersed in water.
3. Remove affected leaves.
4. Treat all cuts with activated charcoal.
5. Place the plant in a greenhouse for quarantine.

Spots formed

Brown or yellow, white or black spots appear on the orchid due to improper care or due to disease. Spotting on the leaf plate and anthracnose are fungal diseases. Their symptoms are presented in the form of numerous local damage to the dark-colored leaf plate. They are more like dents. Anthracnose affects phalaenopsis due to high humidity. The next reason for the development of pathology is the stagnation of water in the bowls of young leaves and the growth point.

If the plant was severely affected, then it must be eliminated. If there are not so many affected areas, then cut them off, and treat the cuts with ash. The soil in the pot must be changed, and the container itself sterilized. During the entire rehabilitation period, the plant will have to be quarantined.

What is contraindicated to do?

For the treatment of phalaenopsis, it is not recommended to treat the plant with alcohol, kerosene and other flammable liquids that will cause great harm to the flower. Phalaenopsis often get sick due to inadequate care for them. We have analyzed why the leaves turn red and fall, why plaque and bubbles form on them, and what to do in each individual case. There is no need to give up and get upset, as a timely detected pathology can be cured, and the plant will recover after a while and will give others its beauty.

- very beautiful flowers. Each one is unique and original in its own way. Proper care of the plant will allow you to observe gorgeous flowering and abundant greenery from year to year. But there are times when the bush begins to wither before our eyes. The reasons may be in improper care or an emerging disease.

Enjoy the blooms on your windowsill tropical flower many people want. But not everyone who has acquired a flowerpot with an escape knows how to properly care for a capricious specimen.

It happens that, out of ignorance, the gardener makes a diagnosis of a life-threatening orchid. Immediate therapy begins, which can lead to the death of the pet. Do not take drastic measures, but pay attention to the conditions of the flower.

There are several signs that indicate malaise:

• wrinkled, wilted leaves with imprints of dots - the pet is hot, there are negative changes with the roots. If the points are strongly pronounced - the result of a lack of moisture. Damaged greenery acquires yellow, dries up and disappears. Overheating occurs in winter due to a hot battery, in summer due to direct sunlight. Under conditions, moisture evaporates rapidly, without lingering in the cells of the bush. When the roots suffer from heat, the nutrient fluid is either not absorbed at all, or in minimal quantities.
• In other cases, a wilting condition may occur due to abundant watering and stagnation of water in the pan.
• Yellowing of the leaf - a change of residence, causing a stressful state, lack of vitamins (potassium, iron), rotting of the roots, natural aging shoots.
• A crack in the center on a canvas of greenery - the causes are accidental damage, abundant irrigation at the time of cold ventilation, dry air and temperatures from 300.
• Spots dark shades with a yellow border - the result of a long stay in the sun or in the vicinity of the battery.
• Growths, swellings, bumps on the outside of the green process - due to swelling of the shoots as a result of heavy watering, mechanical damage.
• Spots, stripes on the sheets - burns after watering, appear as a result of irrigation in the bright sun. The drops remained, the sun dried them up and accidentally burned through the delicate green coating.
• A change in the upper young shoot, its decay - occurs if moisture enters the center of the bush.

Orchid diseases: types and signs

Allocate significant ailments:

• Black rot - the problem lies in the temperature regime and the settlement of pests.
• Fusarion is characterized by yellowing green cover, the appearance of spots. Leaves to the touch - soft, sluggish, twisted, there is a touch of a pink hue.
• Brown rot - spots of a light earthy hue, watery consistency are present, intensified by the darkening of the affected areas and grow over large areas. Start to accelerate the development of the disease gives frequent watering and a cool room.
• Root rot is expressed by the acquisition of the surface of young shoots of a dark shade. When probing, the roots become soft, growing decay is visible.
• Gray rot - appear gray spots with outstanding fluffy villi. The leaves are affected, then the soil, the inflorescences are the last to suffer. hallmark is a small brown blotches on the petals. The reason is the frequent application of fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen.
• Anthracnose. Rounded small spots appear with clear outlines of an earthy hue. They can also grow from several single closely spaced ones, degenerate into one large black tone. The neoplasm dries out the damaged area, leaving a dent on the leaf body. The reason is the lack of fresh air.
• Leaf spot is a dangerous disease of infectious origin. The culprits are midday rays, excess fertilizer. On the cavity of the process, weeping islands are formed.
• - characterized by the appearance of clinging white plaque. The affected areas dry up, the flower dies.
• Viral diseases are rare. There are spots in the form of stripes and circles. Marble stains are noted on the shoots.

Each of these ailments has its own symptoms. The only thing that unites them is the cause of the disease - an increase in temperature and an increase in humidity in the room.

To correct the consequences after improper care, few actions are required. If overheating is detected, the bush must be removed from the battery (in winter), moved deep into the room. At the same time, make sure that the bush has enough daylight.

Otherwise, it is recommended to include additional fluorescent lamps. If the plant began to wither and the reason lies in waterlogging - drain excess liquid from the pan, dry, do not water for 2-3 weeks.

The flower itself will tell you when it should be provided with moisture - the roots will become faded and inconspicuous, they will be depleted.

At sufficient watering the tone of the roots will acquire a rich light green hue. In case of burns in summer period it is recommended not to water in the early hours, so that foci of inflammation do not form on the leathery tissue. In addition, shade at lunchtime.

Black Rot:

• Treatment. Remove problematic parts, spray with Bordeaux liquid. Clear the affected soil and transplant into a sterilized substrate. Spray nearby flowers with Bordeaux or a preparation containing copper.
• Who can get infected: Cattleya, Parphiopedilum

Fusarion:

• Treatment. 10-day treatment with Fundazol (0.2%), by immersing the entire pot in liquid - 3 times in 24 hours. Stop spraying - contributes to the growth of malaise, ventilate the room.
• Who can get infected: Phalaenopsis, Epidendra, Miltonia.

Brown rot:

• Treatment. Minor damage - cut off part of the shoot with the affected area, process. A massively spread disease - it will not be possible to save, destroy, irrigate blue vitriol 1 time per month.
• Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Parfiopedil,.

Root rot:

• Treatment. Spray with a solution of Topsin or Fundazol (0.2%), 3 times in 2 weeks.
• Who can get infected: Parphiopedilum, Miltonia, Cymbidium.

Gray rot:

• Treatment. Cut off the damaged parts to a healthy zone, completely irrigate the entire bush. In case of relapses, the drug for the fight should be changed - the fungus develops an addiction to the drug that is affected. Recommended - Immunocytophyte.
• Who can get infected: Cymbidium, Cattleya, Phalaenopsis

Anthracnose:

• Treatment. Remove the affected leaves entirely, process the sections of the cut. For treatment - copper-containing substances. Remove and . Humidity - no more than 70%, frequent ventilation.
• Who can get infected: Miltonia, Phalaenopsis, Oncirius, Parphiopedilum.

Leaf spot:

• Treatment. Remove all areas with symptoms. Do not water for a week, treat with chemicals.
• Who can get infected: Phalaenopsis

Powdery mildew:

• Treatment. Spray with a solution of colloidal sulfur, preparations Skor, Topsin-M.

Viral disease:

• Treatment. There is no cure. Remove from healthy plants - destroy.
• Who can get infected: All species.

Thus, by doing nothing, you can lose a valuable copy. At the first signs of the disease, it is recommended to take up weapons of struggle.

- love abundant sunlight. But in the daytime they prefer partial shade, the bright rays of the star can burn the delicate skin of the green cover. It gets along well if you follow some rules for the maintenance of an exquisite specimen:

1. On the northern windows it does not feel very comfortable. Normal light mode - 12 hours. If it is not fulfilled, then either you should choose another place of residence, or highlight. Otherwise, the arrow will not be able to bloom and develop fully.
2. For any type exotic beauty+27 C is considered an acceptable temperature. Some species perfectly tolerate an increase in the degree to +32 C. In winter, the plant feels good at +18 C., +13 C is considered the lowest threshold. At this stage certain types begin to freeze, they urgently need to be moved to a warm room.
3. Watering is welcome, but not plentiful. Each species should find its own approach. In one case, watering into the pan, the buds bloom almost all year round. With another bush, this method is not suitable, it begins to wither rapidly. Then it makes sense to try to irrigate with a shower under direct jets directly into the ground. In this way, the entire soil is moistened. It is recommended to water so that there is no stagnation of water, since excessive liquid is detrimental to the roots. Constant moisture is necessary only during the period of budding and flowering. With a lack of moisture, the leaves wrinkle, the buds fall off. Water is required at room temperature. A soft, settled or boiled chilled liquid is best suited. In summer, if necessary, watering increases to a maximum of 2-3 times a week.
4. Does not need abundant, they can adversely affect healthy growth. Top dressing is useful only 1 time in 4 weeks. Frequent supplements tend to lower the immune system.

Thus, the orchid is a rather capricious lady, both in choosing a suitable place and in watering. To prevent the flower from dying, you should carefully monitor its condition.

More information can be found in the video:

Phalaenopsis orchid leaves play a big role in her life.. Together with the roots, they participate in photosynthesis by absorbing light. The flower also breathes through them - at the bottom of each leaf there are microscopic pores that absorb oxygen and moisture.

Along with all their functions, in most cases they are also a kind of alarm that notifies that the orchid is sick. You should listen to such signals, because diseased leaves cannot fully give the plant all the necessary substances, the whole flower suffers from this.

Healthy, deep green leaves with a dense texture. Problematic ones can be noticed immediately, one has only to carefully examine the plant.

1. Sluggish.
2. Yellow around the edges or in the middle.
3. They have a coating on the lower or upper part of the leaves.
4. Darken or brighten.
5. Wrinkle like wrinkled skin.

If one of these signs was noticed, then it should be given Special attention flower and treat it.

ATTENTION! Once a year, an orchid can shed one or two lower leaves. The flower itself at the same time looks healthy and may even bloom. This is normal, because the obsolete parts of the plant dry out, and after some time the orchid will give a new leaf.

What diseases can affect a flower?

Often, an orchid is affected by non-communicable diseases caused by improper care. After examining the flower, you can determine for what reason the plant began to wither.

• The lower leaves turn yellow - insufficient watering or errors in maintenance during the dormant period.
• Yellow spots or white dots - powdery mildew, rot, pests.
• Sluggish leaves - aphids, mites, bacterial spot.
• (or white) - aphids, bacterial spotting, powdery mildew.
• Black spots (darkening of the leaf) - rot, spider mites due to improper watering in cold weather.
• Soft, shriveled leaves - pests, fusarium rot, bacterial spot.
• Decay - Fusarium rot due to improper watering.
• Why do leaves turn red and what to do about it? This is due to pests and rot due to improper watering in cold weather, or water getting on the leaves. Watch for moderate and regular watering of the plant, prevent the appearance of pests.
• Twisting - rot, pests.
• The edges turn black - bacterial spotting.
• Mold - pests (this happens in conditions of high humidity).
• Silvery plaque - pests, gray rot, powdery mildew.
• White bugs on the leaves or a fungus are pests due to frequent watering or too high humidity.

You can find more information about the diseases and pests that phalaenopsis are often exposed to, as well as how to get rid of them, in.

Why do they occur and how to determine the source?

Most orchid health problems are due to improper care.. In order to determine what the plant lacks, or what it has in excess, you need to know the optimal conditions for keeping orchids.

This flower loves diffused light. Direct rays of the sun can leave a burn on the leaves, therefore, in hot summer days the orchid should be shaded. Also, do not leave it in dark places - from this the leaves lose their density, become lethargic. Improper watering can lead to the same consequences. During the active period, the orchid should be watered 2-3 times a week, and during wintering 1-2 times a week.

An excess of fertilizer also often affects the plant negatively - a silvery coating appears on the leaves, and life expectancy is significantly reduced. There may also be problems with flowering - especially for those orchids that give a lot of flower stalks during this period.

Humidity and temperature regime are also important. In the cold, the flower simply dies, and from a lack of air humidity, the leaves dry and turn yellow (read about why the leaves and other parts of the phalaenopsis dry).

IMPORTANT! will create problems and high humidity- an orchid can easily rot, pests easily start on the leaves in this mode.

Problems, treatments and photos

Every problem has its own countermeasures. The main thing is to correctly determine the cause of the disease so that you can provide timely help and not harm the plant even more. Therefore, it is worth carefully checking the conditions of detention in order to make a correct diagnosis.

Below we will describe ways to treat common ailments of the leaves of the plant, photos will also be attached.

The appearance of bubbles and white loose plaque can say a lot. If, apart from stickiness and droplets of moisture, no other oddities are found, then it is worth reviewing the conditions of detention. The orchid thus reacts to cold, or to an excess of moisture, top dressing.

Damage can also be caused spider mite. In this case, you must proceed as follows:

IMPORTANT! An orchid affected by pests must be isolated from other plants, otherwise there is a risk of infection of healthy flowers.

if the plant lacks moisture. It is recommended to increase watering and air humidification. Also you should check if the orchid is exposed to drafts, because from this the leaves and roots are frostbitten, as a result of which the flower may die.

It is much worse if the orchid is rotten. In this case, the trunk will be darkened, and the leaves will wither and turn yellow due to excessive watering. In this case, you must do the following:

1. Remove the flower from the substrate and inspect the roots.
2. Remove those that have dark spots, or that do not absorb moisture when immersed in water (remain as painful in appearance).
3. Diseased leaves are removed.
4. After all the sections are treated with activated carbon.
5. The plant is placed in a greenhouse.

ADVICE! If the stem rots, then such an orchid cannot be saved. The plant should be thrown away.

The appearance of black spots may indicate that the plant has received a serious burn. You should shade the orchid, or rearrange it in a more shady place.

The second cause of such spots are viruses. First, it affects the lower leaves, gradually it spreads to the entire plant. In most cases, such a flower will have to be thrown away - orchids can rarely overcome viral diseases. Furthermore, a diseased plant can easily infect other orchids.

Another reason can be all sorts of fungi. The plant can be saved if treated in a timely manner, namely:

1. All affected parts of the plant must be removed.
2. Treat cut sites with iodine.
3. The orchid itself is treated with bactericidal preparations (Fitolavin).
4. Subsequently, it is necessary to provide the flower with good air circulation.

ATTENTION! Black spots can also appear due to hard water. In this case, it is necessary to wipe the leaves with a weak solution of orange or lemon juice.

We talked in more detail about why spots appear on the leaves, stem and flowers of the phalaenopsis orchid, as well as how to get rid of them and preventive measures.

What is contraindicated to do?

First of all, you can not leave a diseased plant as it is. Hoping that everything will pass by itself is not the best way out.

Also should not be allowed to contact the affected flower with healthy. In the case of pests, this can lead to the fact that all other orchids get sick.

Non-compliance with the conditions of detention is also unacceptable. Due to neglect of the plant, it withers and may die. It is also necessary to periodically inspect the flower - this will help to avoid serious problems with its health.

If you surround the plant with attention and care, then even rolling capricious beauty, like an orchid, will be healthy. Any flower can get sick, and sometimes it takes a lot of strength and patience to recover, but the result is worth it, because it's so nice to watch how the orchid grows stronger and pleases the eye with its flowering. Now you know why the leaves of the plant fall. This may be a signal of flower diseases that can and should be fought.