All about phalaenopsis orchids at home. Phalaenopsis orchid - butterfly flower needs special care

Phalaenopsis orchids are known for their wide, flat petals and large flowers that look like butterflies—hence the name, which translates to “Moth Orchid.” These exotic beauties are very popular, have a long flowering period, are elegant and often reward the hostess with lush blooms in return for proper treatment. What is the care of the Phalaenopsis orchid at home? Let's figure it out together.

How to choose the right Phalaenopsis orchid

By purchasing orchids during the flowering period, you can check not only the flowers, but also the stems, leaves, buds, and understand the state of the plant by its appearance. Take a closer look at the substrate, try how tightly the flower sits in the pot. A weakened plant has a weak root system, it can be easily reached by pulling the stem.
The pot should not smell of rot. Carefully consider the development of the root system. The roots should be dense, green in color, without dry ends.
The traditional butterfly orchid has white petals, but today breeders have bred hybrids. They are distinguished by broad or spotted leaves and the most diverse palette of flowers: pale pink, yellow, purple, brown and even green. Some species have interesting blotches or veins.
Once you have chosen the look you want, pay special attention to the leaves. Healthy Phalaenopsis orchids have tough, succulent leaves with no spots or pallor. A plant suffering from environmental influences, diseases or pests will show obvious symptoms, especially on the leaves. Avoid buying if leaf spotting or yellowing is noticed, there is any wilting.

If you plan to transplant the orchid into a fresh pot, then the best time to buy is the period when the flowers begin to fade. Choose a transparent pot. This will provide monitoring of the condition of the roots and will help to accurately determine the time of irrigation by the condensate deposited on the walls of the container.

Adaptation after purchase

When purchasing an elegant beauty, you need to take special care to maintain her condition and growth. But first, look at the flower. Monitor his condition every day. Place the plant in a warm, bright spot out of direct sun. And do not rush to transplant! Give him time to adapt to the new environment.

Quarantine conditions

Any move for a graceful flower is considered stressful.

Therefore, it is necessary to take measures aimed at isolating a new pet, which include:

  • isolation;
  • observation;
  • peace.

If during this time the state of the flower does not change, then after a week, moderate watering with water at room temperature can be carried out. This must be done carefully so that the drops do not fall on the plant itself. After two weeks, Phalaenopsis is considered adapted to the new conditions of existence.

Do I need to transplant orchids after purchase?

A transplant will be required if the flower is planted in sphagnum moss. It contributes to increased accumulation of moisture, which can adversely affect the root system of the plant. In the event that the substrate where the orchid is located is fresh, the plant does not need to be transplanted. It is recommended that after two years the discussed flower be transplanted into a special soil with an admixture of expanded clay and pine bark.

Orchid Care

Phalaenopsis is a tropical plant. This means that it needs an abundance of light, while it does not tolerate direct sunlight, it is demanding on high humidity, but sudden changes in temperature are not desirable. The recommended daytime temperature in winter is 20-22°C, at night - 15-16°C. It is these parameters that contribute to the formation of ovaries and flowers.

Lighting, temperature, humidity

The orchid especially loves light and lighting is an important criterion that contributes to the favorable growth and flowering of the plant. Orchids need diffused light, but direct sunlight should be avoided. Preference is given to the east or south side. If the new leaf is pulled out, this indicates a lack of light.

Orchids adapt to the temperature regime of the room.

  • The ideal daytime temperature is 18-29°C.
  • The ideal night temperature is 13-18°C.
  • A normal house temperature of 22-26°C is great for orchids.

To induce the plant to initiate bud awakening, it is necessary to lower the temperature regime to 16 ° C and below. After keeping the plant for three weeks in these conditions, an intense burst of flowering will begin. The flower stem will grow in the direction of the light source.

Phalaenopsis can also be grown under artificial lighting. By growing 20 to 30 cm under fluorescent light or 1.2 to 1.8 m under high pressure sodium lamps, Phalaenopsis should produce fast flower growth.

Like most orchids, Phalaenopsis appreciate wetter environments of 40 to 70% RH. In addition to irrigation, which can provoke fungus infection, to increase humidity, you can place a pot in a saucer with a small amount of pebbles, filling them with water. Placing the orchids above the liquid level will slightly increase the humidity around the plant. In the hot period of time, trays with water can be placed.

Watering Phalaenopsis Orchids

The plant should not completely dry out. Moderate watering is needed every seven, ten days in winter, five days in summer. It is important that moisture is present in a small amount and the plant does not dry out. Transparent pots will help to make sure of this. Condensation on the inside tells you that there is enough moisture. If there are no droplets on the walls of the pot, then it's time to water. To water, place the plant in a sink or large container and water several times for 15 minutes.

Phalaenopsis, like Dendrobium and other varieties of orchids, is susceptible to rot, so it is advisable to water in the morning. It is not permissible to leave water for a long period in the pan of the pot. Good air circulation must be ensured.

Fertilizer

Fertilize with a balanced formula once every two weeks, diluting the fertilizer to 1/4 and 1/2 of the recommended dilution rate, adhering to the principle of "less is better, more often." At the same time, the amount of top dressing in the winter months, when most plants are not in the active growth phase, should be reduced to one. Fertilize the plant only after abundant watering, using a special liquid complex agent with trace elements.

Transfer

It is recommended to repot the flower every two years to avoid exposure to root rot. Use clear plastic pots as the roots are said to stick to clay pots. An orchid is suitable for a porous mixture. You can make it yourself from spruce bark, large perlite, charcoal and red lava, but it is better to purchase a ready-made substrate for orchids.

If the roots are strongly intertwined, and it is difficult to remove the substrate, lower them into the water to soak. Clean the root from dry and rotten parts. Treat all cut parts with activated charcoal. Conveniently place the roots in the pot. Healthy roots are the foundation of a healthy orchid.

A safe time to transplant is when the plant is not flowering and is in a dormant period.

Reproduction of orchids

Like most plants, orchids are able to reproduce themselves in two different ways: pollination and vegetative propagation. At home, vegetative reproduction is usually used to create a collection of orchids.

It can be achieved in three ways:

  • by division;
  • bulbs;
  • cuttings.

Although large orchids can be difficult to separate, this provides an effective result and a strong plant that will then lead to rapid growth.
When the flowers on the shoot fade, it should be cut only half. A new inflorescence may appear on it.

The main problems when growing a plant

Leaves will tell about the health of the flower. If the leaves turn yellow, it means that you are not taking proper care of the flower. There are a number of factors that can cause orchid leaf discoloration, including direct sunlight, low temperatures, and root rot.

Here is the instruction for removing yellow leaves on Phalaenopsis orchids:

  • Phalaenopsis orchid leaves can dry out and turn yellow if exposed to direct sunlight. Shade or place the orchid in a place where there will be enough light;
  • too low temperature. Make sure the temperature is between 18-26 degrees during the day and 15-21 at night;
  • excessive moisture leads to root rot, which in turn can cause the leaves to turn yellow. To avoid this, only water the plant when the topsoil is dry and the roots are white, and make sure there are enough holes in the pot to allow proper drainage.

If an orchid is suffering from root rot but you can see that the plant still has healthy green roots, cut off the rotten parts and transplant it into a new environment.

Orchid pests and methods of dealing with them

Sometimes with quality care, Phalaenopsis orchids are exposed to diseases and pests. The main thing is to notice in time what is happening with the plant, then there will be more chances to save the graceful beauty.

If there are several pests, you will have to apply treatment measures again, every seven to ten days, three times. Insects lay eggs that are resistant to handling and reappear. By repeating the cleaning several times, you will kill the next generation.

Aphid

These are the most ubiquitous pests and come in a variety of colors – including green, red, pink, black, and yellow. They are usually found on young shoots, including flower buds. The kidneys are especially damaged, which are deformed at the time of blooming. Aphids are also a carrier of diseases, various viruses.

Slugs and snails

Snails and slugs can damage young orchid roots and stems, as well as hinder the development and maturation of flowers. They usually come out at night, so if you suspect, shine a flashlight to spot them. Look at the bottom of the flower pots - this is another of their favorite hiding places. They love cool, damp places. If they travel on dry surfaces, they leave a telltale slime trail behind them.

Bees and other pollinating insects

They do not cause any physical damage to orchids, but if they land on flowers and pollinate them, they will wither very soon.

Pest Control Methods:

PestFirst waySecond way

The unusual name of the flower given by Karl Blum - Phalaenopsis, similar to a moth, won the hearts of many generations of flower growers with its variety of colors, unpretentiousness in care, grace and beauty. These flowers, reminiscent of a butterfly in their subtlety and grace, figure prominently in the finest collections of houseplants. Therefore, having made his choice in favor of this beauty, the florist gets the opportunity to witness the flowering of the East Asian miracle.

In this article, we will discuss Phalaenopsis orchid care and reveal the secrets associated with phalaenopsis care at home. Let's talk about important details related to the characteristic features of this species. Let's touch on pests, methods of prevention and treatment.

Description and characteristics of Phalaenopsis

Phalaenopsis is a genus of epiphytic plants in the Orchid family. A rosette of 3 or more leaves is formed around a high peduncle. They are wide, up to 5 centimeters, and flexible. Phalaenopsis flowers are very diverse. White, pink, yellow, burgundy, spotted, purple - this is not the whole list of phalaenopsis orchid colors.

The Phalaenopsis orchid blooms at least once a year, the flowering period is also very long - up to 6 months. It happens that this one blooms 3 times a year. Also, with good care, this orchid can continuously bloom for years: while one peduncle blooms, new young peduncles come out.

Photo gallery of flowers and leaves of various Phalaenopsis:

Care and care

As with other species, caring for Phalaenopsis orchids at home requires some very important steps, but at the same time, creating a positive atmosphere for growth and flowering is not a laborious practice.

With due attention to the following aspects, caring for phalaenopsis at home will bring only positive emotions.

Lighting and location

Phalaenopsis orchids require care when placed indoors, as choosing the right place is half the battle. Under natural conditions, these flowers are accustomed to a long daylight hours, so you should not take the phalaenopsis flower far from the windows, while direct sunlight can cause burns and then the plant will have to be rehabilitated. It is best to place this flower in a shaded place, or arrange diffused lighting. In winter, additional artificial lighting of the plant will not be superfluous.

East and west windows are well suited for placement. On the southern windows, the plant must be shaded, and on the northern windows, phalaenopsis may be reluctant to bloom due to lack of light.

With a seasonal reduction in the amount of light, it is necessary to add artificial lighting.

Temperature regime

Unlike the tropical conditions of Asia, where temperature ranges and seasons are regulated by nature, room conditions are the prerogative of man. The choice of the optimal temperature is approached carefully and takes into account the requirements of the plant.

The Phalaenopsis orchid gets along well at various temperatures, but the best solution for this flower is the range from 18 to 25 degrees. Aggressive drops will not benefit the flower and will not allow flowering to begin on time, but if the daily change of modes is carried out reasonably, by about 5-7 degrees, for 2 weeks, then your pet will not keep you waiting long.

Important! During the heating season, the thermometer readings grow, so that the flower is removed away from the batteries or fenced off from hot air.

Phalaenopsis orchids love good air circulation. This is necessary for the prevention of disease and confident growth. Since phalaenopsis does not have a dormant period, the growing season goes on all year round. But, in general, it may depend on the individual biorhythms of the flower.

The beauty and health of a flower are inextricably linked with the humidity of the air around. At home, Phalaenopsis requires 30-40% humidity. With a lack of moisture in the air, the leaves lose their healthy appearance and elasticity. An increase in humidity leads to rotting of the roots and to the death of the flower.

Important! Humidity can be measured with a device called a psychrometer (hygrometer). You need to place it in close proximity to the plant.

To increase humidity when it is lacking, an additional open source of water is placed next to the flower, which will saturate the air. With stagnant air, humidity indicators will not change, so good ventilation is the key to success.

Soil and nutrient media

Gardeners who want to create the most favorable conditions for their favorite plant should approach the choice or creation of a substrate with maximum attention and care.

Any flower shop sells ready-made soils for Phalaenopsis orchids. After the purchase, it is worth double-checking such a fee and, if flaws are found, it is being finalized.

So, the components of the substrate should be small in size and well crushed. The wider the set of components, the better. The ratio is made approximately equal. All ingredients must be well mixed. If the gardener wishes for his favorite phalaenopsis orchid, then it is advisable to choose the following ingredients:

  • Pine bark;
  • fern roots;
  • A small amount of peat;
  • Pumice;
  • Expanded clay.

For the Phalaenopsis orchid, a smaller amount of moss is suitable than for other types, and pure bark or bark mixed with coconut chips can also be used. Pumice and expanded clay are used not only as fillers in the mixture, but also as a drainage system.

Watering

Root burn due to hard water

Watering plays an important role in the life of all plants. It is worth noting that the flower will lead to excellent indicators of health and flowering, and the inept will create conditions for diseases and pests.

There are several important watering details for Phalaenopsis orchids:

  1. Before you start watering, you need to make sure it is necessary. The soil in the phalaenopsis container should be dry or almost dry.
  2. It is necessary to visually assess the appearance of the roots. Roots that need watering are silvery in color.
  3. During watering, avoid getting water into the inflorescences and rosettes of leaves, as this leads to rotting of the flower.

Phalaenopsis at home is demanding on the quality of water for irrigation. It should be as close as possible to natural feed waters. The following types are suitable:

  • settled;
  • boiled;
  • Rain;
  • Filtered.

The Phalaenopsis orchid does not tolerate hard water. Salts settle on the root system and harm it: the roots darken and burns appear. This, of course, is not fatal, but spoils the appearance of the plant. The best and most suitable ways to moisturize this type of orchid are:

Irrigation by immersion

The flower, together with the pot, is immersed in a container of water so that the entire substrate is wet. The immersion should be carried out slowly so as not to push the entire plant out of the pot. In summer, the dive time can be up to half an hour, in the cold season, no more than 5 minutes.

If several plants are successively immersed, then new water is needed for each subsequent plant. Thus, the transmission of diseases and is excluded.

Phalaenopsis Strait

An equally convenient way to water phalaenopsis is a strait. The substrate in the pot is spilled with water along the edge, this helps to wash off excess salt from the soil and roots, which will benefit the plant.

Also, maximum attention is paid to frequency, lighting, air temperature and humidity. These indicators must be in balance, since if one of them is displaced, the Phalaenopsis orchid will have to be saved.

Important! During the flowering period of phalaenopsis, watering does not need to be changed somehow.

Reproduction and transplant

Care and reproduction is a painstaking process that requires the concentration of knowledge and attention. Therefore, before you start, you should assess the risks and check if the plant is ready for it.

  1. Propagation by cuttings. A stem is cut from 10 to 15 centimeters long, which must be healthy and lively, and also have as many aerial roots as possible. The cut is dried and treated with a fungicide, then the stem fragment is planted with fixation and waiting for adaptation. Experienced flower growers use a sterile tool to avoid infection of the flower. The separated stalk is placed on a moistened substrate. Moss is very good. For the first time, you can organize greenhouse conditions. As soon as the roots grow at least 5 centimeters long, the young plant can be strengthened on a permanent soil.
  2. Reproduction by shoots. This method is also called "baby" division. Lateral shoots, that is, young plants that have already formed a new root and leaf system, are carefully separated and strengthened on a new substrate.

Important! After transplantation, care for phalaenopsis must be carefully and carefully so as not to damage the fragile young plant.

Despite the fact that the Phalaenopsis orchid at home is an unpretentious species, it should be transplanted only when there is a clear need:

Important! You can transplant Phalaenopsis during the flowering period, if necessary, but try to disturb the root system of the plant less. It is best to transplant during the period of active growth of the roots, then the plant adapts faster.

The transplant procedure itself is carried out carefully and very carefully. In several stages.

  1. The flower is removed from the pot and cleaned of the old substrate.
  2. Check the roots. If there are rotten or dried roots, then they are cut off.
  3. Install in a pre-prepared container and add the mixture from above to the root neck, but not above it.

After transplanting, the plant does not need to be watered immediately. It is worth letting the micro-injuries on the roots heal.

Some time after transplantation, top dressing is carried out, which allows you to grow healthy flowers from young sprouts.

For productive care of the phalaenopsis orchid at home, use:

- 1 tablet per liter of water.
Complex fertilizers for growth and flowering.

Pests, diseases and important details

Indeed, treating a flower is much more difficult than caring for it. Common diseases in phalaenopsis are:

  • Root atrophy. Occurs with improper watering and temperature conditions. It is treated with a change of care.
  • Root rot. The reason for this may be improper watering, inappropriate humidity and air temperature. Transplantation, fungicide treatment, and change of conditions are necessary.
  • Yellowing of leaves. The reason is the wrong mode of lighting, watering and temperature. It is treated by changing the care and transferring the flower to the shade.
  • Mold. Occurs at high humidity and low air temperature. It is treated with special preparations, or similar preparations.

In this article, we talked about how to properly care for phalaenopsis, outlined the most important aspects of care, transplantation, treatment and cultivation of this type of orchid. It is impossible to know everything about phalaenopsis, but you should always strive for this.

phalaenopsis orchid- one of the most famous and brightest representatives of her family, who was very fond of our flower growers. Most orchids grow in the humid equatorial and tropical forests of Africa, Australia and the Philippine ridge, as well as in Southeast Asia. Of all its relatives, phalaenopsis is the easiest to care for, therefore it easily took root on our windowsills.

During the Great geographical discoveries, Europeans were happy to master not only new types of spices, delicacies and precious metals, but also flowers. Why are only Dutch tulips! Our homemade phalaenopsis orchid comes from the spicy Moluxy Islands, where it was first studied in the wild by the German naturalist Georg Rumph. But it owes its name, which in Latin means “butterfly”, to Karl Blum, who headed the work of the botanical garden in Leiden.

In the wild, most orchids are epiphytes - that is, they grow on trees, taking nutrients from the air through a developed system of aerial roots. Trees, stones, sod-podzolic soils consisting of large fractions are their favorite habitats. When buying phalaenopsis in a store, you probably noticed that the composition of the substrate in which this phalaenopsis orchid grows is very different visually from the usual humus soil on which most flowers grow.

So, an exotic beauty, although unpretentious, requires compliance with a few simple growing rules. If everything is in order with this, she will delight you with lush flowering more than once a year.

Phalaenopsis orchid care at home

Like all tropical flowers, phalaenopsis has its own care requirements. Most of them are connected with the fact that for him it is necessary to try as much as possible to reproduce the natural conditions of growth - the conditions of a humid tropical jungle. The orchid has its own interesting features:

Part of the roots belongs to the wandering air type, therefore, homemade phalaenopsis, if not followed, can easily “crawl” into a neighboring pot.

Since phalaenopsis initially grow in a climate in which there is no pronounced cold period, they do not have a special need for an anabiosis phase or a dormant period. They bloom 2 times a year, subject to simple care standards, and some especially persistent flower growers get even 3 blooms from their pets.

Dense leaves are located in a basal rosette in 2 rows, flower stalks are long and curved. If the flower receives good nutrition, then the inflorescences are large, racemose, the leaves and petals are juicy. The color palette is simply amazing - there are just no colors:

  • purple;
  • light lilac;
  • snow-white;
  • orange-green;
  • orange.

Often a flower is built on the principle of contrast: the lip is a long base, has one color, and its petals are another.

Lighting

Very often, the fiasco in the cultivation of phalaenopsis is associated precisely with the choice of the wrong lighting. This factor is extremely important for all flowering and deciduous plants, since the access of light provides the plant with the key process of photosynthesis, during which carbon dioxide is split into water and oxygen. To understand exactly what conditions phalaenopsis needs, you need to remember the conditions of its habitat. The tropical selva, forming a dense dome over low-growing plants, does not let a large amount of light down, but heat and evaporation create the necessary microclimate.


In the conditions of a home window sill, the plant will need a little more light, it is quite possible to place it on the south side, but still monitor the light intensity. If it is too bright, the plant will signal a change in leaf color. Ideally, they are a bright green juicy shade.

Darkening will indicate a lack of lighting, but the appearance of whitish spots, or redness, will indicate that the light is too bright. By the way, phalaenopsis belongs to the group of orchids that like to have a lot of light, but when placing a flower on a brightly lit window sill, do not forget to monitor the condition of the leaves. If something is wrong, the flower will signal this.

Particularly advanced flower growers help plants with lamps. In this case, it is better to use fluorescent lamps of cold white and warm white spectra. The former provide short blue wavelengths that stimulate photosynthesis and growth, while the latter provide short red wavelengths that create a microclimate during flowering. At the same time, you should not use incandescent lamps - they give too much red waves, this can cause burns.

IMPORTANT! A little life hack - as you grow, you should also raise the lamp up so that the leaves and inflorescences do not fall under too close exposure to heat waves.

Temperature

In the wild, Phalaenopsis orchids prefer to keep the temperature at 22 degrees, and the maximum temperature of the cold period does not fall below 7-10. The fact is that in the tropics the cold season is the period of rains, when the temperature drops by no more than 3-4 degrees. Phalaenopsis prefer more or less even temperature conditions and our seasonal jumps are unacceptable for them.

Phalaenopsis belong to the warm temperature group. The maximum allowable temperature range for them is from 25 - 28 degrees on a summer day and 15 - 18 on a winter night. Daily fluctuations should not exceed 3 - 6 degrees, therefore, if you turn off the heating at night in winter, it is better to leave the orchid in a place where heat exchange is not so intense and the temperature drops slowly. How long and intensively the orchid will bloom depends on how correctly you choose the temperature regime.

Air humidity

This factor is perhaps the most important for orchids, because in their homeland - in tropical forests, it can sometimes be from 80 to 100%. With a lack of moisture in the air, you can compensate for the lack of spraying, but it is important not to overdo it, otherwise the orchid can easily rot.

As we have already said, orchids are epiphytes, accustomed to do without a moist substrate, and the humidity of the air from which they take moisture is of great importance to them. But even in case the flow of moisture suddenly dries up, orchids have reliable defense mechanisms - for example, a waxy layer that covers the leaves and roots, protecting them from excessive evaporation, and the porosity of the roots, which take all the necessary amount of moisture from the air.


Phalaenopsis have a special daily regime - in case there is not enough moisture. The leaves have microscopic holes - stomata for absorbing carbon dioxide. During the day they are closed, which prevents the evaporation of moisture, but at night they open when evaporation is minimal.

For potted plants, it is enough to get moisture from the substrate. But for plants that are grown on blocks of bark or tied up, air humidity is very important. It can be increased by spraying or using electronic humidifiers, decorative fountains. Spraying should be carried out regularly, and preferably - not in the midday heat, but in the morning or evening, more intensively - if the orchid stands near a radiator, heater or central heating battery.

Watering

Among the owners of orchids there is no consensus on how to properly water. There are 3 main ways:

  • Watering with a thin stream from above using the shower method;
  • watering in a pot with constant immersion in water;
  • brief immersion in water.

The first method is not only not effective enough, but also unsafe for the plant. When water is poured in a thin stream over the substrate, the latter does not have time to absorb moisture, which it could then give to the plant. It simply evaporates, and the rest flows into the saucer. It turns out that the roots are not saturated with moisture evenly - the upper ones dry out, and the lower ones, constantly being in water, rot, and the plant may die.


It is better to water the plant by immersion once a week. In pre-prepared and settled water at room temperature, it is possible with the addition of fertilizer for orchids, the pots are immersed for 10 - 15 minutes, until completely saturated. In the hot season, you can repeat the procedure several times a week.

The leaves of the plant serve as indicators of the correctness of watering. With an excess of moisture, swelling and decay appear on the leaves. It is impossible to cure them, you need to trim the damage to healthy tissue.

top dressing

Often flower growers mistakenly believe that the more intensively they feed orchids, the longer and more often they will bloom. However, fertilizing and fertilizing phalaenopsis is not always in favor of the plant:

  • If the plant was just bought and brought home, it is not worth transplanting and feeding it. The substrate is nothing more than a fulcrum, and the supply of nutrients can be enough for more than 2 to 3 years.
  • You can not feed the plant during the flowering period. From greenhouses to store shelves, orchids are supplied blooming, before that they are intensively fed in nurseries, and if you add top dressing at home, the inflorescences and buds will quickly fall off, because the plant will begin to “prepare” for the next phase of flowering.
  • For newly transplanted, diseased or weakened plants, top dressing is also not suitable. They require professional treatment, and for this there are a number of other drugs.

What to feed? Orchids need nitrogen, calcium and phosphorus to grow properly. During the period of cultivation of the vegetative mass, a fertilizer with a high nitrogen content is needed; phosphorus and calcium are needed for the full laying of peduncles and budding.

It is especially important to initially give the plant a large amount of phosphorus, which is responsible for the processes of respiration, photosynthesis, growth and metabolism. If you do not ensure its stable inflow, it will be difficult to compensate for the shortage. It is phosphorus that provides lush flowering, and for a full-fledged nitrogen exchange, you need a lot of potassium.

Feeding is worth every 2 weeks, after soaking the roots. Immerse the phalaenopsis pot in water for 10 minutes, then add fertilizer and soak for 20 minutes.

What to do with phalaenopsis immediately after purchase

If you bought phalaenopsis in a specialized store, where it was looked after and prepared for sale properly, then no resuscitation will have to be carried out. But in most stores, unfortunately, they use temporary containers for flowers, in which they cannot grow for a long time. The flower will have to be transplanted if:

  • The orchid does not stand alone in a pot due to a mismatch in size;
  • there is too little substrate in the pot, and the orchid “dangles” in it;
  • if the orchid's roots are damaged.

In any case, you should first try to put the flower in a heavy glass pot and do without a transplant, at least until the flowering period has passed.

The most common types

Despite the fact that phalaenopsis is often considered a separate plant species, under this designation a whole family of orchids has united, which are the least whimsical and suitable for growing them at home. This class has about 70 varieties that attract the grower with luxurious inflorescences and a wealth of colors. Today, on the shelves of flower shops, you can most often find varieties:

  • Amabilis;
  • Schiller;
  • Stuart;
  • Sander;
  • Giant;
  • Deer-horned;
  • Hieroglyphic;
  • Ambonian;
  • Pink;
  • Parish;
  • Horse;
  • Luddemann;
  • Mini mark;
  • Amsterdam.

In addition to those mentioned, variegated phalaenopsis and phalaenopsis with a special aroma, as well as intergeneric hybrids - blue, blue and pelorics, enjoy the love of buyers.

Bloom

It's no secret that we love orchids for the beauty they give us with their blooms. And if the purchased flower does not bloom for a long time, or gives too small and faded inflorescences, this is disappointing. Let's try to figure out why phalaenopsis does not bloom, and how to stimulate flowering. Phalaenopsis, whose life cycle is 7 - 10 years, blooms under normal conditions 1 - 2 times a year, and the flowering period is from 2 to 6 months. In any case, the orchid should bloom at least once a year.

Why phalaenopsis does not bloom

As mentioned above, the main condition for flowering is proper care. If the conditions of care are violated, flowering is disturbed. Phalaenopsis flower stalks disappear if:

  • Phalaenopsis watering is wrong - the roots do not have time to dry out. For phalaenopsis, it is important to have a stable constant source of moisture, and not an excess of it.
  • There is a violation of the temperature regime. For normal flowering, it is important for phalaenopsis to ensure a daily and seasonal temperature difference in the range of no more than 3 - 4 degrees.
  • There is a re-fertilization. Due to incorrect dosage, useful substances often “drive” the plant into growth, but there is simply not enough strength for forcing flower stalks and budding.

How to make it bloom

  • Do not create stress for the plant by rearranging - do not change its location;
  • buy plants aged 1.5 - 3 years, they are ready to bloom; younger plants should gain sufficient vegetative mass;
  • create conditions so that a sufficient amount of light hits the photosynthetic roots of the plant, if there is no natural source, buy a fluorescent lamp of the “cold white” or “warm blue” range;
  • ensure temperature difference.

If you want to outwit a flower and force it to bloom again, create a stressful situation for it: move it to another place, stop watering, create a sharp temperature drop. The phalaenopsis will have a “population conservation” mechanism, and it will most likely re-bloom.

After flowering

After flowering, the peduncle should be cut off - it will take nutrients from the plant. Toward the end of flowering, the stalk will take on a waxy hue - usually this period can last from 1 to 6 months. After all the inflorescences fall off, the leg will begin to dry out and after that it can be safely cut off.

Transfer

Above, we have already considered cases when an orchid needs to be transplanted, and when not. If phalaenopsis transplant needed - it is important to do the procedure correctly so that the flower takes root and feels good “in a new place”.


  • To easily separate the subtrates and roots from the pots, you need to hold it in a bath of warm water for several minutes. It is worth transplanting a plant only at rest, otherwise it may simply drop the inflorescences. For transplantation, it is worthwhile to prepare the substrate, plastic pots, activated charcoal, secateurs or a knife in advance.
  • After softening, we take out the orchid from the pot, clean the roots of the remnants of the substrate, rinse, cut off the rotten or dry roots, put them on a napkin and let them dry for about 20 minutes.
  • After drying, the cut off places of the roots should be lightly powdered with activated charcoal previously crushed in a mortar.
  • We insert the roots vertically into the pot and slowly begin to fill the substrate. It is better not to use the old one - even if there are no visible signs that the substrate is damaged, anyway - it can contain bacteria and fungi organisms, mold.
  • The pot should be lightly tapped on the walls so that the bark is immediately rammed and there are as few voids as possible between the particles of the substrate.
  • After transplanting, the plant must be watered and placed in a warm and bright place. But never in direct sunlight.

reproduction

Orchids are divided into two main types - sympodial and monopodial. The first have several points of growth, the second - one. Depending on the type to which the plant belongs, you can choose the most convenient way to propagate orchids at home:


  • The division of the bush (in sympodial species) after the end of flowering and the dormant phase;
  • cuttings - in monopodial, in the spring;
  • cut peduncle after flowering;
  • child sockets;
  • seeds.

Diseases and their treatment

Like all plants, phalaenopsis are also susceptible to a number of specific diseases that can be caused by pests, fungi and bacteria. Each of them requires special treatment with chemicals and care procedures. And for the correct selection of means of struggle, it is necessary to correctly “diagnose” the disease.

Fusarium


In 99% of cases with orchids, infectious fusarium is caused by specific fungi that reproduce by conidia. If you notice pink, white, reddish balls on the roots and base of plants, it's time to start countermeasures. The disease affects the roots, they begin to rot, and the plant dies. Fusarium occurs if:

  • The substrate does not dry out periodically, and at high humidity, a low temperature is kept inside it;
  • the substrate is oversalted;
  • the substrate contains too much peat or foam.

To treat Fusarium, isolate the plant, cut off the affected areas and dry the roots and substrate thoroughly.

Hives

In conditions of high humidity and poor ventilation, orchid leaves are often affected by hives - these are yellow-brown spots up to 3 mm in diameter, which quickly cover the entire plant. It is impossible to save the affected areas, but you can prevent the spread of the disease if you equalize the conditions of detention.

Botrytis

Botrytis is a fungus that provokes the development of gray mold and spotting on the leaves. The fungus actively multiplies in damp and warm air, affects those weakened by poor care or plant transplantation. Botrytis affects not only leaves, but also flowers. Fungicide treatment is ineffective unless affected leaves and flowers are selected and trimmed.

Pests and control methods

Despite the exotic origin, orchids relished our pests. If you do not identify them in time, do not isolate the affected plant and do not start sanitizing it, the lesion can lead to the death of the orchid.

Slugs

The class of snails and slugs has over 75,000 species. Fortunately, only a few representatives of this group are capable of harming orchids. On phalaenopsis in conditions of high humidity, you can most often find:

  • Reticulated and striped slugs;
  • Opeas pumilum;
  • Oxychilus draparnaud
  • Rounded snail.

Their danger lies in the fact that slugs scrape real holes in the leaves and stems with their radula. The areas become thinner, the tissues in this place die off. You can fight them by hand-picking, replanting the plant, and of course - by treating them with chemicals.

spider mite

A dangerous pest for phalaenopsis is a spider mite. It feeds on the sap of the plant, but during the "bite" a specific substance, which is produced by the glands of the spider, enters the cell. It destroys the membranes, the leaf eventually becomes covered with silvery spots and dies.

The most effective way to prevent a spider is to periodically water it with a hot shower, and also treat it with a solution of Neem tree oil. In addition to the fact that the larvae die during processing, it also strengthens the immunity of the orchid.

thrips

Traces of this inconspicuous insect can be identified by the appearance of excrement - small black dots, and characteristic "strokes" - whitish stripes on the leaves, spreading in different directions. Thrips are illegible, they settle both on flowers and on leaves, but mainly on the back side. There are more than 7,000 species of thrips in the world, but they can be easily removed by treatment with systemic insecticides.

Shchitovki

The shield is easy to see, even if it lives on the back of the sheet. This insect has a strong brown shell, feeds on the sap of the plant, due to which it depletes the leaves and stems. It is quite difficult to get rid of scale insects, and often its young larvae are invisible in the substrate. Therefore, before you put a plant just bought in a store in the thick of your flower garden, it is better to quarantine it.

Mealybug

Getting rid of mealybugs on orchids is perhaps the hardest thing to do. This is possible only if the leaves and sinuses of the plant are treated with an enteric-contact insecticide. The mealybug lays larvae deep in rosettes of leaves, outwardly they resemble dirty cotton wool.


These insects feed on the juice of the plant, but during contact, their digestive enzymes get inside the plant and disrupt the metabolic processes inside it. The orchid weakens and, if left untreated, may die.

How to crop

Phalaenopsis often have to be cut - during transplantation, cuttings or removal of dried flower stalks. Since the vegetative body of the orchid is saturated with bearing vessels and quite juicy, it is important to know how the correct pruning of the Phalaenopsis orchid is carried out.


How to cut a peduncle

We have already mentioned above that trim the flower stalk of an orchid stands after flowering. It is important to wait until it dries completely, and the base turns yellow. Then you need to cut it off completely, only leave a small process 1.5–2 cm high near the outlet. last kidney.

How to cut roots


It is important to understand that hanging roots for an orchid are normal. In epiphytes, part of the roots necessarily protrude beyond the base of the plant, because they must take nutrients from the air. But if the roots rot or dry out, are affected by pests, and it is necessary to carry out sanitary pruning of orchid roots, certain rules must be observed:

  • Trim the roots a few millimeters from living tissue;
  • wipe the cut points with crushed activated carbon;
  • when pruning, treat with fungicides, dry the roots and substrate.

Herbaceous plants belonging to the Orchid family. They are represented by epiphytic (plants that live without contact with the soil, most often on another plant, receiving nutrients from the environment) and lithophytic (plants that need rocky or rocky terrain) forms. Phalaenopsis are dominated by epiphytes.

In nature, phalaenopsis lives in the humid tropics of Indonesia, Australia, Southeast Asia, and the Philippine Islands.

General information about Phalaenopsis

Literally translated from Greek, Phalaenopsis sounds like “moth-like”. This is not surprising, because the flowers of this unusual plant are shaped like a flying tropical moth or butterfly. The variety of colors is amazing. Even if you set out to collect orchids of all existing colors and shades at home, you will have to spend a lot of time to achieve it. But even one or several phalaenopsis can significantly decorate your home and give you positive emotions from contemplating their indescribable beauty.

How to choose Phalaenopsis?

So, you have decided to please yourself with the purchase of this beautiful plant. What should be considered when choosing an orchid?

  • The plant is desirable to acquire during the flowering period. Then you can choose the color that you like or that is missing from your collection.
  • You should pay attention to the leaves: in a healthy plant, they are dark green in color, fleshy, with a waxy sheen. Flowers with damaged, dry or discolored leaves are best left at the store.
  • Phalaenopsis roots are green and powerful. If you move a healthy flower in a pot, the roots will sit tightly in the substrate. If the root system of an orchid suffers, then the roots will be sluggish and mobile.

Choice of location and temperature

Here you have purchased your phalaenopsis and now it needs care at home after the store. In order for the flower to be comfortable, you need to choose the right place where it will live and choose the temperature regime, because it directly depends on whether the orchid will please you with flowering or not.

Phalaenopsis loves light very much, so you need to keep it in well-lit places, for example, on windowsills. But it should be remembered that direct sunlight can cause burns to the plant. Therefore, it is better to put them on the east or west side. If the windows in your house face south, you can make a shelf, place it near the window and settle the phalaenopsis there.

Regarding the temperature regime, there are some features. To stimulate the flowering process, you need to create a temperature gradient: in summer, maintain 24–26 degrees, and in winter, reduce the temperature to 15–17 degrees for a couple of weeks. The flower will withstand 30-32 degrees, but if such numbers hold for a long time, your phalaenopsis will react to this by dropping its beautiful flowers and withering of the leaves.

With proper care at home, the phalaenopsis orchid will delight you with flowering from 3 to 6 months.

Choosing the right substrate and pot

In order for the phalaenopsis orchid to feel good, home care should imply a responsible approach to choosing a pot and soil in which it will grow.

The substrate is necessary for phalaenopsis to give a stable vertical position, because. in nature, a flower is watered by tropical rains and from the bottom, when moisture diffuses through the leaves, it receives nutrients. Phalaenopsis roots are called aerial roots and should not be constantly in the water. Therefore, especially for them, there is a substrate on sale, consisting of bark, which provides constant air access to the root system of the flower. If there is insufficient humidity in the room, a little sphagnum moss can be added to the substrate, however, the main thing here is not to overdo it, as it will retain water.

It is better to choose a transparent pot, then the state of the substrate and the roots of the plant will always be under your visual control. Pot size is important: if it is large for phalaenopsis, then the soil will not dry out well, which will eventually lead to rotting of the roots. A too small pot size will lead to permanent trauma to the root system. For aesthetics, you can place a transparent pot in a multi-colored planter, although the sight of a healthy and blooming orchid will attract all eyes.

Humidity and watering

In order for the orchid to grow and please its owner with it Requires air humidity in the range of 30−40%. If the air temperature exceeds what is comfortable for phalaenopsis, the flower pot can be placed on a pallet with wet gravel or pebbles. But do not forget that with excessive moisture, the roots may begin to rot.

Watering or "Bathing" phalaenopsis is a kind of ritual, which allows you to provide the flower with proper care. You should always have settled or rain water at hand. The water temperature for bathing an orchid at home should be slightly higher than room temperature, approximately 26–8 degrees.

In a container filled with prepared water it is necessary to immerse the pot with the plant for 20-45 minutes to sufficiently soak the substrate with moisture. After bathing, place the phalaenopsis pot on a tray or deep plate to drain excess moisture through the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. Do not allow stagnant moisture around the roots of phalaenopsis.

This ritual should be performed once a week. But if the temperature in the room where the orchid grows is above 30 degrees, you need to do this 2 times a week.

How to transplant phalaenopsis?

The orchid is transplanted no more than once every three years. The best time to do this is in the spring.. But it may also be that the plant will need a transplant immediately after you bring it from the store. It is advisable to do this when the orchid stops blooming.

For transplanting, it is better to use a new substrate, but if this is not possible, then the old one will do. It must be properly washed, boiled and completely dried.

Phalaenopsis must be removed from the pot, clean the roots of the remnants of the soil. Then his good to see and if there is, then remove the yellowed leaves and damaged roots. The cut sites should be treated with an antiseptic. You can process scissors with which you will cut off unusable parts of the plant.

If there are no holes in the bottom of the pot where you will transplant the orchid, you have to do it yourself. Then a layer of expanded clay is laid on the bottom, which will perform a drainage function. We place the flower in the center and sprinkle evenly with the substrate, not forgetting that the roots must have access to air.

Conditions under which the orchid will bloom

It is difficult to single out the main condition, since the observance of all of them in combination leads to the desired result.

After flowering stops phalaenopsis needs special care. In order for flowers to appear again and again, you need to give the plant a rest. For this, the peduncle is cut off to the third bud or remains intact. When the orchid is ready to bloom again, it will throw out a new flower spike.

How to propagate homemade phalaenopsis?

When you realize that home care for orchids is quite simple, then you may be tempted to try breeding your pets. There is also nothing complicated, but you need to be patient.

With a thorough examination of the peduncle, it is necessary to determine the presence of dormant buds. For her awakening need a temperature regime of 24-29 degrees. A semicircular incision is made with a sharp object in the region of the base of the scales of the kidney and it is removed with tweezers. The exposed kidney is treated with cytokine paste and covered with a piece of sphagnum.

After 4-6 weeks one or more young can be observed on the plant with two or three tiny leaves. The number of children depends on how many kidneys you have processed. But it should be remembered that more than one should not be processed on one plant, because it can give all its strength to the children, and die itself.

At the end of 3-4 months, the first roots appear in the cubs. Once they get stronger and reach a length of at least two centimeters, cut the young orchid with a piece of the mother and transplant it into a separate pot. The roots must be covered with moss to protect them from drying out. If the air humidity is insufficient in the room where the young flower will grow, you can make a greenhouse out of a plastic bag. Further care is the same as for the rest of the phalaenopsis.

Choosing fertilizers

Another condition that provides decent care is the right fertilizer, because this is important.

Compliance with simple conditions and guided by the rules of care for phalaenopsis, you can grow at home a whole greenhouse of fabulously beautiful flowers that will not leave anyone indifferent.

Phalaenopsis orchid belongs to the tribe Vandaceae, and, accordingly, the Orchid family. It is a herbaceous plant that grows mainly on trees. It belongs to plants - epiphytes, because of which requires the creation of an artificial microclimate. Juicy, bright green leaves form basal rosettes. On long, curved peduncles, racemose inflorescences of bright colors are formed.

Phalaenopsis orchid care after purchase

Immediately after buying in the store, the plant must be placed in a kind of "quarantine".

This is necessary in order for the plant to adapt to new conditions. To do this, you should follow simple recommendations:

  1. For 2 - 3 weeks, the plant is placed separately from other indoor flowers. This is necessary in order to identify pests or signs of disease of a new plant in time;
  2. The orchid is recommended to be placed in a shaded place, avoiding direct sunlight;
  3. Watering should be moderate, but not allowing the substrate to dry out;
  4. It is undesirable to "overload" the orchid with top dressing.

At this time, you need to constantly monitor the roots, leaves and flowers of the plant. This will help to notice the first signs of infection with diseases or pests in time.

Attention! You need to gradually move the orchid to a permanent place. This will allow the plant to fully adapt to the new lighting and watering conditions.

After purchase, the plant does not need to be transplanted. This is done only if the plant was originally planted in sphagnum moss. In a quality substrate, it can live 1 to 2 years. It is undesirable to spray the plant with any "antistress". A healthy plant is able to go through a period of adaptation on its own.

How to care for leaves


Dark green, fleshy leaves require special care. They need to be dusted and sprayed frequently.

With proper care, the length of the leaves reaches 50 - 70 centimeters.

When the lower leaves forming the basal rosette die off, they should be cut back to healthy leaves. Such pruning will be beneficial, it continues to grow even more actively.

Reference! As with all monopodial plants, Phalaenopsis orchid leaves are essential.

Leaves 3 - 5 times a day are sprayed with warm water. This allows you to maintain the desired level of humidity. This is especially important in autumn and winter, because during the heating season the air becomes especially dry.

Root Care


Since the Phalaenopsis orchid grows wild on trees, this The plant has green aerial roots.

They are on top of the soil, the pot serves only as a stand.

The roots of the plant have access to fresh air, for this they lie freely on top of the substrate, they can even stick out above the pot. You can not sprinkle them with earth or bury them in the substrate.

Reference! Plant roots are involved in the process of photosynthesis. They should always have constant access to sunlight.

Old and sluggish roots that acquire a brownish color should be cut off, allowing new ones to grow. It is best to grow an orchid in a glass pot. This will make it easy to track the condition of the roots. The pot can be installed in a decorative planter.

Carefully! The Phalaenopsis orchid also has aerial roots. You need to make sure that they do not climb into other pots with plants.

Flower stalks care


Before flowering, pots with orchids are placed in a cool place, watered sparingly. This will provoke rapid flowering.

With skillful care, the plant can bloom 2 times a year.

At an air temperature of 18 - 25 C, an abundance of sunlight and a humidity level of 30% to 40%, the duration of continuous flowering is 6 months.

Attention! Only dry flower stalks that spoil the decorative appearance of the plant are subject to pruning.

Transfer

It is worth replanting the plant every 2 - 3 years when the substrate in the pot is completely depleted. The unsuitability of a wood substrate can be determined by the fragility and dark color of its particles.

Often there is an unpleasant, putrid odor. This problem can also occur with excessive watering of the substrate. This leads to rotting of the roots of the plant and damage to the base.

Important! The substrate must be changed every 2 to 3 years, as it must always be clean and fresh.

Landing


For planting, you will need Phalaenopsis orchid shoots, a glass or ceramic pot and a substrate. To prepare it you will need:

  • Tree bark of small or medium fraction;
  • Moss-sphagnum.

The bark is pre-soaked for 2 days in cold water. Then rinse with clean water. After that, pieces of bark of the middle fraction are placed at the bottom of the pot, and smaller pieces of bark are filled from above. At low humidity, sphagnum moss is added to the mixture, which retains water at the roots.

Reference! Experienced orchid lovers grow Phalaenopsis on special blocks. But this is a rather complicated method that requires professional plant care.

reproduction


Unlike other types of orchids, Phalaenopsis is not propagated by division of rhizomes. For this, 2 main methods are used:

  • seeds;
  • Branches.

Seeds at home is extremely difficult. After the plant has faded, side shoots can be separated from it for propagation. Only strong shoots with 2-3 leaves are suitable for this. Aerial roots on such shoots should have a size of at least 5 centimeters.

Peculiarities! Cut off the shoots is 1 - 2 months after flowering. During this period, the plant will have time to rest and easily endure this procedure.

pruning


After the flowering period is over, it is recommended to cut off the dried flower stalks.

Usually, after the inflorescences fall off, the flower arrows dry up. Those flower stalks that remained green can be:

  • Trim completely;
  • Cut off only the top;
  • Don't touch at all.

In the third variant, an inflorescence may form again on this peduncle. After complete pruning, the green peduncle can be placed in a jar of water. After some time, a “baby” may appear on it, which can be used for reproduction.

Peculiarities! Left green arrows after about 2 months of rest can give lateral peduncles. It is on them that new inflorescences will appear.

Rejuvenation at home

If the orchid has stopped blooming and has become unkempt, it's time to rejuvenate. It refers to the separation of the top from the roots. After they are transplanted separately. New roots will appear again at the top, and “babies” may appear on the bottom. A few months after this procedure, the plant may bloom again.

Peculiarities! The Phalaenopsis orchid has rather powerful aerial roots. This allows it to bloom luxuriantly even after adverse conditions.

To rejuvenate an orchid, you will need:

  • Secateurs;
  • Tree bark for the substrate;
  • Moss-sphagnum;
  • New pot for transplanting;
  • Iodine (required for processing sections).

From the video below you can learn more about how to rejuvenate an orchid:

The top is cut off from the plant so that at least 2-3 adult leaves remain on the mother plant, and the top has aerial roots. After that:

  1. Sections are treated with iodine;
  2. The top is transplanted into a separate pot. It is pre-filled with substrate;
  3. All voids in the substrate are filled with moss - sphagnum.

Separated orchids are rearranged on the windowsill to provide better access to sunlight. On the maternal part cut in this way, with good care, a “baby” will appear in 2 months. After that, the plant will be able to bloom. The cut top takes root slowly.

Attention! Only old plants that have stopped blooming should be separated.

Watering


For good orchid development, the substrate must be constantly well moistened.

It should not be allowed to dry out, as this will affect the growth of the plant. In this case, excessive watering should not be allowed. This can lead to root rot and growing points.

If the plant is planted in a transparent pot, you can track the desired level of moisture in the substrate by drops of moisture on the walls.

Peculiarities! If the orchid grows in a ceramic or plastic pot, you need to regularly check the degree of moisture in the substrate. It is worth carefully raking the substrate, inside it should also be moistened.

Well-moistened roots are bright green in color. Aerial roots will be white. In any case, the roots should be light. You can also determine the level of humidity by the weight of the pot. If it becomes unexpectedly wet, it is worth watering the plant. Watering can be done in two ways:

Humidification of the substrate;
Careful immersion in a container of water.

It is undesirable for water to fall on the leaves of the plant. If it is of insufficient quality, it can lead to stains on them. Once every 30 days, it is advisable to wash the Phalaenopsis orchid in the shower, the water should be warm. After this procedure, the leaves must be wiped dry.

Carefully! To prevent pieces of bark from floating away during bathing, it is recommended to cover the substrate with gauze.

Between watering procedures, it is important to dry the plant. This will keep the roots from rotting.

Pollination


As with other orchids, Phalaenopsis at home can only be done artificially.

The process of obtaining seeds is quite simple, but requires utmost care.

All you need is tweezers and a flowering plant. To pollinate a plant:

  1. On the stigma of the flowers there is a so-called "column" containing polylines. It must be carefully removed with tweezers by pulling the tail. After that, inside the flower, you can see the polylines. It is with their help that pollination occurs. The dorsum of the polynias is sticky, because in this way they are carried on the backs of insects;
  2. Polinni with tweezers is placed in the bosom inside another flower. The polylines are attached to its sticky walls;
  3. If everything is done correctly, after 24 hours the sinus will close, since pollination has occurred.

The flower from which pollinia are taken will wither. The pollinated flower also begins to wither, and its stem swells.

Reference! Seed maturation takes 6 to 8 months. After that, with sufficient experience, new plants can be grown from them.

Bloom


Phalaenopsis under favorable conditions can bloom at any time of the year.

Depending on the care flowering time can be from 2 to 6 months. Flowers range in size from 2 to 15 centimeters.

The color of the inflorescences can be very diverse: white, purple, yellow, red. There are also varieties that have a color combination of specks and spots.

Peculiarities! The number of flowers on the arrow depends directly on the degree of branching of the peduncle.

Each peduncle can contain from 3 to 40 flowers. In some varieties, the length of the peduncle can reach up to 1 meter. Up to 100 flowers can form on it at a time.

Diseases and pests


Phalaenopsis are susceptible to both infectious and non-infectious diseases.

In all cases, the cause of infection is improper care of plants. The most common fungal diseases are:

  • Fusarium;
  • Various rots (gray, black, root).

The most dangerous infection is Fusarium, since the infection spreads quite quickly. The disease affects the roots, then quickly spreads to the entire plant. An infected plant must be destroyed so that the infection does not spread to other plants. In case of infection with rot, the plant must be treated with fungicides. The most common non-communicable diseases are:

  • Hives(occurs due to low temperature, too high humidity or poor air exchange in the room);
  • Botrytis(occurs due to too high humidity combined with poor air ventilation).


Proper care is the key to dealing with the problem. After eliminating the errors, the plant will recover.

The main pests that can infect the Faliopsis orchid:

  1. Mealybug. The main symptom is yellowing and then leaf drop. A measure to combat it is spraying with a solution of laundry soap;
  2. Spider mite. With insufficient air humidity, characteristic "cobwebs" may appear on the leaves, roots and peduncles. This problem is also solved by treating with soapy water;
  3. Thrips. Brown spots appear on leaves or flowers. The main control measure is treatment with systemic insecticides;
  4. Shchitovka. Small bumps appear on the leaves. You can solve the problem by treating with soapy water. This procedure is repeated 2 times with an interval of a week.

As a preventive measure, you need to inspect all plants next to the affected one. This will avoid infection of healthy orchids.

How to revive?

Violation of the rules of care can lead to a deterioration in appearance, or in the worst case, to the death of the plant. Root rot is the most common problem. This problem is caused by the following common errors:

  • Too high humidity (its level in the room should not exceed 30 - 40%);
  • Insufficient lighting (for example, if the plant is on the window sill on the north side);
  • Excessively compacted substrate (untimely replacement can lead to the death of the plant).

Another reason could be improper fertilization. This can lead to chemical burns of the roots.

Attention! In case of a chemical burn of a top dressing plant, stop immediately. The plant is transplanted into a fresh substrate.


When the roots rot, the plant literally falls apart, while the rotten roots die off.

If the decay process has not hit the growth point, the situation is reversible. You can try to grow new roots, thereby saving the plant.

If part of a healthy root system is preserved, the orchid has a better chance of surviving. But even if the roots are completely rotted, you can try to do the following:

  1. Completely cut off damaged roots to the point of growth;
  2. Treat the growing point, if necessary, with a fungicidal preparation,
  3. Leave the plant in the shade for 2 to 3 hours. This is necessary so that the place of the cut is delayed;
  4. Then water is poured into a suitable glass vessel. The plant is placed in it so that the growing point is in the water. The leaves at this time should be on top and ventilated;
  5. Put in a well-lit place with constant air circulation. The temperature in the room should be 23 - 25 C.

After a while, new roots will appear from the growing point. It is recommended to periodically wipe the leaves of the plant with a sponge soaked in a solution of succinic acid.

Peculiarities! It is desirable to transplant a reanimated plant into sphagnum moss. Only when it gets stronger, you can return to the usual substrate.

Video on how to grow a flower

You can learn more about caring for the Phalaenopsis orchid from the video below:

findings

The Phalaenopsis orchid is the most common species grown at home. It requires quite a bit of maintenance. But subject to all the rules of cultivation, it is able to bloom up to 6 months a year. Careful care of leaves, roots and peduncles is necessary. For cultivation, you will need a special substrate consisting of tree bark and moss. But even a plant that has ceased to bloom or has been damaged by improper care can be saved.

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