Diseases of orchids spots on the leaves. Phalaenopsis orchid treatment, description and photo of diseases

The most common diseases of orchids can be called non-infectious diseases, they, as a rule, are the result of inconsistencies in care. First of all, the leaves signal us about problems, and in order to prevent further infection of the orchid, one should take up their treatment as soon as possible.

Signs of any disease in phalaenopsis are most pronounced in adverse conditions.

Orchid diseases are reduced to three types:

  • Fungal diseases - the most numerous diseases in the form of raids and spots on the leaves, often progress and end in the death of the entire plant.
  • Bacterial spotting is a very unpleasant disease, expressed in rotting of the roots, spreading to other parts, the leaves turn yellow, then darken, become soft, covered with sunken spots and weeping ulcers.
  • Viral - very unusual leaf spot (mosaic virus), damage to flowers, ring-shaped spots in the form of small circles and strokes. Unfortunately, there is no cure...

The most typical manifestations of all these diseases are spotting, raids and rot that occur on the orchid. various kinds(both wet and dry). The main reason is the stagnation of water in the pot, excessive humidity, the greenhouse effect created by the increase in temperature and humidity, the orchid got burned, or froze, got cold.

In the photo: dry yellow- brown spots(burn) ... After resuscitation of the Phalaenopsis orchid, aerial roots began to grow and a new leaf grows well.

The growth of fungi is provoked by strong waterlogging, overheating, lack of ventilation, sometimes as a result of damage, exposure to cold ...

The virus can hide for a long time and not manifest itself in any way, but with general watering will settle on other orchids. At strong development diseases cannot be treated - the plant is destroyed.

The most common orchid diseases.

  • Anthracnose (fungal) - clearly defined round spots appear on the foliage, shoots different sizes dark brown, which merge to form black convex areas. Treatment of this disease is reduced to the removal or excision of diseased areas. The cut point is processed wood ash. When infected larger area treated with systemic or chemical. drugs to prevent the spread of the fungus.
  • Gray rot (fungal) - due to a violation of the water and temperature regime brown spots appear small size, eventually affecting the entire flower. Treatment of orchids with the drug "Immunocytophyte". Keep as dry as possible, ventilate to reduce humidity.
  • Fusarium - of fungal diseases, phalaenopsis most often affects - fusarium rot, in which the roots, growth point are first damaged, then the disease spreads to the entire orchid. It is difficult to treat, so the plant is destroyed. main reason the occurrence of fusarium, as well as other rot - excess moisture. Prevention is keeping pots and substrate clean.
  • Root rot spreads to the neck, bulb, rhizome, stems. And only the roots get wet and decompose. Other parts affected by rot simply turn yellow and dry out, crack or split, but no signs of rot are noticeable.
  • Root rot of bacterial origin, unlike fungal, causes wet rot and decomposition of not only the roots, neck, but also other parts of the orchid. Shoots in a short period (8-10 days) can suddenly turn black or dry out. This process is often accompanied by an unpleasant odor.
  • Powdery mildew (fungal) - the plant is covered with a white coating, which leads to the drying of the affected area and death. At the first sign, spray with a solution of colloidal sulfur, preliminarily (two hours) water the flower abundantly. For prevention purposes, they are sprayed with Fitosporin.
  • An excess of moisture, especially at low temperatures, has a detrimental effect on the orchid - shoots, leaves, roots are affected by rot, which often leads to death. It is recommended to immediately remove all affected areas, process the cut sites and transplant.

Drugs for treatment - systemic fungicides.

In any case, we isolate the orchid from the rest. We remove (cut out) everything infected to a healthy green tissue. Disinfecting the cut points. We spray the diseased plant with a systemic fungicide - 2-3 times with an interval of 10 days, for prevention - 1 time per month.

Please note that the fungicide must be systemic, not preventive, namely, eradicating the fungus (penetrating into the vascular system).

Drugs that inhibit the development of fungal, infectious, bacterial diseases are common measures to combat them.

  • "Fitosporin" - will help very well in the treatment of orchids ...
  • "Fundazol" - universal action(the affected areas are cleaned, dried and powdered).
  • "Chlorhexidine" - well helps against bacterial diseases.
  • "Oxyhom" - destroys dangerous diseases such as black bacterial spot, root rot And so on.
  • "Topaz" - good for powdery mildew, rust.
  • "Fito Plus" - top and root rot, powdery mildew, gray rot ...
  • "Streptomycin sulfate" - for bacterial lesions (1 ampoule per liter of water)
  • "Immunocytophyte" - a universal preparation of immune action, suppresses a huge complex of diseases. It has proved itself perfectly, both for treatment and for prevention. Processing is carried out once a month.
  • "Trichodermin" - suppresses, but of a weaker effect.

Phalaenopsis are often affected by many diseases (spotting, anthracnose, fusarium rot), as well as other orchids in need of treatment and resuscitation.

After all the treatments, it is better to transplant the plant into a properly selected substrate (pine bark) and continue the treatment of phalaenopsis for preventive purposes. We reduce, as far as possible, watering and spraying, reduce air humidity ... We avoid fertilizers during quarantine.

In case of severe infection (anthracnose, black fungus, rust ...) they are treated with the biological preparation "Mikosan", or chemical. preparations "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topsin-M".

Read the instructions carefully! When using chemicals or other orchid disease control products, follow the directions on the label and follow all safety precautions…

Often pests become carriers of diseases, which we will talk about on a separate page ...

Sometimes it happens that unwanted guests - pests - settle on your favorite orchid. This can happen for many reasons, and the grower needs to know what to do in this situation to help his tropical beauty.

Consider the main pests of orchids and describe the damage they cause to the plant.

If on phalaenopsis onion mites attack they suck the juice from the roots.

Actively eat leaves:

  • thrips larvae,
  • slugs,
  • snails,
  • Caterpillars.
Drink juice from an orchid:
  • Nematodes,
  • spider mites,

If pests are not detected in time and not destroyed, then the plant may die.

Phalaenopsis orchid pests and treatment with photos: causes

Buying an infected plant from a store

Take a closer look at the orchid and substrate in the shop.

Attention! A healthy phalaenopsis should have dense, resilient and smooth bright green leaves. If the leaves are wrinkled or wilted, look like rags, then do not buy the culture. Do not buy a flower whose leaves have a sticky or white coating.


Infected substrate

If you take a substrate from a flower garden in the yard, then, firstly, it is not suitable for an orchid, and secondly, very often it is infested with pests. Therefore, it is better to buy bags of substrate for the store.

Transfer from another plant

Pests can crawl on from neighboring flowers.

If you have a lot of plants in the room, then the risk of harmful insects increases.

A lot of ticks, bugs drink juice from variety of plants and crawl in search of a new plant.

Don't put plants too tight on the windowsill.

Major pests

thrips

Insects move fast penetrate the soil.

You can understand that thrips attacked the plants if you saw white spots and dots on the leaves, as well as a thin silver film.

Thrips are small insects with an elongated body.

If you get up at night, turn on the flashlight and light it up, then you will see thrips, which are on the surface of the substrate..

They are lay eggs inside leaves, then they hatch into larvae that eat the leaves. Spots appear on the leaves, the leaves turn brown, fall off.

Black dots are visible on the flowers, and “constrictions” are visible on the rhizome.

Nematode

These are tiny worms up to 2 mm long they feed on juice.

On the roots of a damaged orchid necrotic patches appear, then flows to the leaves and pseudobulb.

The worms lay their eggs on the underside of the leaves.. White spots and dots are visible on the foliage.

shell mite

Tiny insect with a body length of 0.7-0.9 mm, the body is dark brown or black.

females lay brownish eggs. They run very fast. They run and hide from the world.

They can crawl all over the orchid, but eggs are laid on rotten roots , on fallen leaves.

Appear in wet ground. They eat fallen leaves and do not pose a danger to the orchid.

spider mite

Spider mites can be grayish, whitish, sandy, brownish-red, yellowish, brick shades.

Not afraid of the light, are on the bottom sheet plate. Eggs are laid on green leaves.

Spider mites live in large aggregations on bottom surface leaves.

They are noticed by a silvery coating, similar to a cobweb, which the pest leaves on the foliage.

Yellowish, white or black spots are visible on the leaves.

Aphid

Aphids can have many shades, they can be yellow, black, orange, pink, gray, green, white. Most pests translucent.

Their body has the shape of an oblong oval 0.5-2 mm long. The female, which has 2 pairs of wings, is larger than the wingless female.

You can see insects bottom of leaves.

When the aphid breeds, feeding on juices, the top of the orchid is deformed, yellowish spots are visible on the foliage.

Place a piece of cucumber or apple on the ground as a bait and see if anyone crawls out to eat the piece. To prevent mold on the soil, remove a piece in the morning.

Woodlice, snails and slugs can only be found at night.

You can put a saucer by pouring dark beer into it. Get up at night and try collect slugs by hand. It usually takes a week for new snails to hatch from eggs, so keep baiting.

Podura in the substrate

Podura reminiscent of tiny caterpillars:

  • whitish,
  • yellowish,
  • greenish,
  • Silver.

Podura appears on the soil surface in early spring, feeding on various plant residues.

They have body length 2 mm, but there may be larger specimens up to 1 cm long. From the bottom of the abdomen they have a fork, with its help crawl and jump.

Fools appear if you are too pour phalaenopsis. Moisture stagnates on the surface of the substrate and silt appears.

To catch phalaenopsis podura, place in a basin of water so that the water completely covers the pot.

Then the fools will come up and you you can collect them.

Woodlice

Woodlouse has an elongated body, covered with scaly armor. The body is dark gray or yellowish-marble. She has 7 pairs of legs and mustache.

In length adult up to 1 cm. Usually wood lice crawl into the substrate after taking the orchid outside.

Woodlice often appear on orchids with improper care.

Woodlice eat young sprouts, leaves, stems, roots, holes appear on them. Woodlice afraid of water, because of this, lower the container with phalaenopsis for 10 minutes. completely into the water.

And then wash away the insects soapy water. If there are a lot of wood lice, then change the substrate, transplant the flower, after washing the roots.

Caterpillars

If your phalaenopsis is standing on a loggia, then adults butterflies can lay their eggs on it, and the caterpillars, as soon as they hatch, immediately begin to eat the green parts.

Can be used to eliminate pests spray plants with decoctions with onions, garlic, hot pepper, jalapeno, basil, coriander, wormwood, mint.

Pour the leaves into hot water. Strain before use.

If there are too many caterpillars, then take acephate and spray phalaenopsis, but remember that composition is toxic so please follow the safety precautions.

Centipedes

They have many pairs of legs.

Centipedes eat insects and do not harm phalaenopsis.

Means of struggle

Aktara

The drug destroys aphids, whiteflies, thrips, scale insects, false scale insects, soil flies. Aktar contains thiamethoxam, it completely eradicates pests.

Aktara effectively and quickly destroys pests.

Pour 4 g of the drug into 5 liters of water, and then use. You can put the flower pot in this solution for a few minutes, or you can spray the leaves and water the substrate with the solution.

Actor can be calm mix:

  • With zircon;
  • Ribav-extroy;
  • Appin.

Actellik

Actellik is considered analogue of the drug Bi-58, which is prohibited to use in Russia.

In Aktellik has pyrimiphos-methyl. Sold in canisters of 3-5 liters, in ampoules of 2-5 ml, which filled with concentrated emulsion, in the form of a wettable powder.

The composition destroys: aphids, thrips, scale insects, whiteflies, caterpillars, various mites, mealybugs.

Actellik is classified as a drug 2 hazard classes.

Use only freshly prepared solution. Pour a 2 ml ampoule into 2 liters of water.

Moisten the entire surface of the leaves with the solution orchids and stems, then water under the root.

After a week of processing do it again.

Cover the processed orchid plastic bag, put for 1-2 days in a well-ventilated room that you do not go into.

Actellik incompatible with Bordeaux mixture and products containing copper.

For drug treatment put on special clothes, gloves, respirator, goggles.

Do not eat, smoke or drink while spraying Phalaenopsis.

Then take off your overalls wash all exposed parts of the body soapy water. Rinse your mouth. Eat some pills activated carbon and drink some milk.

Put the packaging and container in a plastic bag, tie it up, and burn it. Break the ampoules before this.

If necessary, antidotes for Aktellik are atropine sulfate, R-AM.

Fitoverm

It contains aversectin C, it derived from a soil fungus.

Fitoverm destroys ticks, thrips, scale insects, aphids, mealybugs.

In addition, pour the solution phytoverma substrate in pots.

The main advantage of Fitoverm is a low danger to humans.

To eliminate mites, remove the phalaenopsis from the pot. Destroy the pot itself. The plant will lie quietly for a week without a substrate.

Thoroughly wash the roots orchids hot water, then dissolve 1 mg fitoverm in 1 liter of water, treat the plant. Use only freshly prepared solution.

Cover the orchid for a day with a plastic bag. Put the culture bag in a bowl, place in a place illuminated by the rays of the sun.

After 10 days, do the treatment a second time. Then rinse the roots with hot water and plant in a new pot.

After 5 days, water the plant with water.

Agravertin

Agravertine destroys ticks, aphids, thrips. He paralyzes larvae and adults, they cannot eat and then die.

The drug acts on insects for 2-6 days. To treat phalaenopsis, pour 5 ml of the drug into 2.5 liters of water. handle, moving the plant to the bathroom, to the loggia. Wet the entire plant with a sprayer.

Wait, it's time orchid will dry, put it in the sun, but not under direct rays.

BI-58

Forbidden use in Russia.

Prevention measures

Post-Purchase Handling

Phalaenopsis pot put in water, wait 10 min.

If there are pests in the substrate, then water will wash them away.

Attentively consider an orchid, very carefully inspect the underside of the leaves, buds, root system.

Periodic visual inspection

Occasionally look carefully all parts of the phalaenopsis, especially the underside of the leaves, leaf axils and substrate.

Preventive treatment

Important! Fitoverm is well suited for preventive treatment. This is the safest biopreparation.

Dilute 1 ampoule in 0.5 l of water.

Process the leaves, stems and water the substrate.

Useful video

Look at the video, what are the pests of orchids:

Learn in the video how to deal with orchid pests:

Video instruction on what preparations are best used against pests of orchids:

Look at the video, behind the orchid after purchase:

Conclusion

Pest Prevention Tips:

  • When buying, carefully inspect the plant in the store, it should have bright green leaves, grayish or greenish roots;
  • Purchase an orchid substrate only in specialized stores;
  • Do not neglect preventive measures;
  • Properly care for phalaenopsis;
  • Remember that among all means of pest control, fitoverm is considered the safest biological product.

In contact with

Orchid is beautiful and amazing flower, which appeared 120 million years ago, while it reached its peak of popularity only 3 thousand years ago. This flower is native to China and Japan. This plant was first brought to Europe about 2 centuries ago, and today there are over 40 thousand varieties of orchids. With the help of scientists and breeders, today it is possible to grow an orchid at home.

Phalaenopsis, the most popular orchid hybrid, is a rather susceptible and capricious flower to various diseases. Therefore, in addition to proper care and growing experience, it is necessary to consider all diseases of the orchid and how to treat them.

It often happens that phalaenopsis starts to hurt due to excessive maintenance. Therefore, the most popular diseases are non-communicable diseases that are associated with illiterate care. Very often, these diseases lead to the weakness of the bush, its death, or the formation of pathogenic organisms and pests.

Description of the Phalaenopsis hybrid

Phalaenopsis is considered one of the most common orchid varieties - the most popular hybrid in our country. This plant can have a wide variety of flower buds (from pure white to dark blue with various spots and patches on the leaves). Orchids can be of various sizes, number of leaves, and also have no fragrance.

Number of flowers per plant significantly depends on the state of the orchid itself, as well as the number of branches and can be in the range of 6-35 pieces on one branch. This plant can be quite successfully grown at home. Phalaenopsis has a single stem shape with compacted leaves of various shapes and types, and there is also only one growth point.

This hybrid requires the same careful care as their other representatives. Since these species are the most common in cultivation, it is necessary to tell in more detail about their various phalaenopsis diseases with descriptions and photos.

Phalaenopsis is the orchid variety that most often becomes infected with non-infectious leaf diseases. The appearance of Phalaenopsis orchid disease is explained by illiterate care. However, there are other pests of the bush: bacterial spotting, rot, various viruses, anthracnose, fusarium.

Let us consider in more detail the diseases of orchids and their treatment, as well as photos various diseases.

Non-infectious diseases of this plant are considered the most frequent. Often, gardeners complain that the leaves of orchids begin to turn yellow, and soon and completely their bush receives yellow tint. The reason for this may be illiterate care. This happens for the following reasons:

Phalaenopsis, like any kind of orchid, needs good and high-quality lighting. Lack of lighting can lead to a significant deterioration in the condition of orchids: the stems of the flowers are rapidly stretched upwards, the leaves get a pale green tint.

These plants are the most susceptible to any disease. And direct exposure to the rays of the sun contributes to the formation of yellowing of their leaves.

Phalaenopsis orchid is much less likely to become infected with viral diseases. These diseases are distinguished by the manifestation of spotting in the form of a mosaic on the petals of the buds and the leaves of the flower. This spotting may resemble the shape of lines, circles, arrows. When you see signs of a viral disease in an orchid, then first of all it must be isolated from healthy plants. Be sure to show the infected phalaenopsis to a specialist, if this is not possible, then take at least a photo. In the event that your guesses are confirmed, then it is best to burn this flower in order to prevent healthy bushes from being damaged.

Spotting on the leaves of a bud is considered the first signal that the orchid has begun to get sick with a fungal or bacterial infection. As a rule, it is the Phalaenopsis variety that is affected by a bacterial infection. Everything happens with the yellowing of foliage, which after a certain time gets dark color and becomes very flexible. After the leaves are covered with wet ulcers, of which liquid substance flows out. Salvation from this infection can only be the cutting of infected leaves, and you also need to cauterize the place of the cut with iodine.

There are also more potent drugs, their use occurs at a very advanced stage. If two weeks after cutting, no new spots have formed on the orchids, then the plant is no longer infectious, and it can be safely installed on a window with others.

Anthracnose

It is also a fairly common disease that manifests itself on Phalaenopsis leaves. First appear small round spots, which after a while begin to blacken and differ in a concave surface. After a certain time, a pink or pink plaque appears on these spots. yellow color. The reason for the formation of anthracnose is considered to be high air humidity, as well as the prolonged presence of water in the leaf axils.

To prevent the formation of this disease, you need to periodically ventilate the room. Air humidity in the room should be no more than 65%, but not less than 45%. It is also advisable to blot accumulated water in the leaf axils. When affected by anthracnose, the infected leaves are removed, and the cut points are cauterized with iodine. Treatment with such means as Skor, Ritomil, Mikasan is carried out already at an advanced stage of the disease.

powdery mildew

This is very . The disease appears in the form of a purple-white bloom on the foliage. Outwardly, the flower looks as if plant sprinkled with flour. It's pretty dangerous disease, which can lead to the death of the bush. The reason for the formation is considered to be high air humidity and elevated temperature, and this leads to the steaming of the plant. For preventive purposes, Fitosporin is sprayed.

The treatment of this disease of the Phalaenopsis orchid is carried out by spraying with Skor or with a mixture of colloidal sulfur. But first, the plant needs to be carefully watered, and after a few hours, the treatment process can begin.

Rust

Pretty rare disease rust too is a fungal infection for orchids. This disease, like those described above, infects the leaves of Phalaenopsis. As a rule, weak bushes are exposed to this disease. Rust appears in the form of spots from the inside of the leaves, which very soon take on a reddish hue. This is the sporulation of fungi, which have a reddish tint, hence the name of the disease - rust.

Treatment methods are quite similar to those used for the diseases described above. Infected areas must certainly be removed, and the sections should be treated with a 25% alcohol solution. Orchid treatment is carried out by spraying with Mikasan, Skor and Ritomil.

Black fungus or sooty

Also often pests infecting the orchid. They are: scale insects, worms, and also aphids. This fungus appears in the form of a black plaque on sweet flower formations. These pests prevent the passage of light to the flower by clogging the stomata of the foliage.

Among other representatives of this type of pests, the worm is the most dangerous. This insect has an oval appearance, and its size can be about 4 mm.

There are two varieties that a worm has that can infect phalaenopsis:

  • The bristly bug is a pest that has a pronounced reddish body color and an oval shape with a snow-white coating.
  • Citrus bug. It is a pest that varies in color from orange to black, but is usually pink with a distinctive snow-white bloom. largest size body can be up to 6 mm.

The worm is very similar to the scale insect, but at the same time it lacks a shield. Both varieties secrete honeydew, a sweetish liquid that protects them from various external factors. The worm is a rather malicious pest, and if measures are not taken in a timely manner to remove it, then the orchid may die.

The worm harms the plant so much that it manages to suck all the juice out of it, and at the same time adds poison to the flower. These substances weaken the bush, which leads to leaf fall or yellowing.

The formation of sticky drops and a snow-white coating on the foliage is the first sign that a worm has wound up on the orchid.

It infects only weak orchids that are grown in insufficient conditions for this plant. Often, these pests are formed on bushes overfed with nitrogen. As a rule, the mealybug infects flowers in winter, at this time the daylight hours are significantly shortened, and the flowers do not have enough light. Also, this pest may appear with the acquisition of a new flower. Therefore, when buying an orchid, you must be especially careful and attentive.

For prevention, a fairly popular remedy is based on neem tree oil. It is used only for prevention, since treatment with this drug will not show a positive effect.

You can also use the hot shower method. The meaning of this method is to water the orchid warm water 45-55 gr. Since these pests die at a temperature of more than 40 degrees, this option is very effective in treating the plant. Scale insects also often infect orchids.

Viral and fungal infections phalaenopsis can lead to the formation of rot. The process of rotting of the roots, as well as the foliage of the plant, takes place. The cause of decay may be increased high humidity and temperature.

Treatment consists in repeated processing of roots and soil. 0.3% composition of foundationazole or 0.2% benlate mixture. It is necessary to completely lower the orchid into this substance. The interval between sessions must be at least 2 weeks.

Rot

Gray rot is considered a common disease of phalaenopsis. This rot appears on the foliage in the form of brown and black spots with a fluffy formation. The reason for the formation of rot is considered to be high air humidity, and for prevention it is advised to use Kendal when watering. It increases the resistance of the plant to various diseases. In case of infection of the orchid with rot, it is necessary to carry out spraying with fungicide. And in case of a secondary lesion, it is advised to use a different fungicide, since rot spores adapt to the means used.

  1. The formation of black rot takes place on plants that are already infected with pests and diseases. In order not to completely destroy the plant, you need to remove the affected areas and foliage, and soak the cut areas with colloidal sulfur.
  2. Fusarium rot infects the leaves of the plant, after a while they begin to turn yellow and curl up. The leaves get a grayish color. Treatment is carried out by completely immersing the orchid in a 0.3% mixture of foundationol. This procedure is required to be carried out within 2 weeks.
  3. A characteristic feature of brown rot is the infection of young leaves of orchids. Rot appears in the form of bright brown formations that grow very quickly and become a rich brown hue. The methods of struggle are exactly the same as with other types of rot. And for prevention, you can spray with a light solution of vitriol no more than once every 30 days.

Summing up, we can say that when elevated temperatures and excessive moisture need to ventilate the room more often, do not install orchids very tightly among themselves, make sure that the water does not stay on the foliage for a long time. Watering and spraying orchids is necessary only at the beginning of the day. Preferably put in a room with large quantity and overcrowding of plants, the fan and let it work at least in the hottest time. This can help prevent a lot of problems and different kind diseases.

Orchid diseases




How to understand that the orchid is sick and what to do in such cases? It all depends on the cause of the disease of the flower. There is a huge variety of different diseases: fungal, viral infection, cercosporosis, heat or sunburn, bacterial rot, furazior wilt (turns yellow top sheet or growing point), phyllostictosis, septoria, flat, spider mites, stangosporosis, altenarios (ring spot), brown, dry rot, fomopsis, anthracnose, lack of minerals, shell mite, phytophthora, pythium, wet bacterial rot, overdose of growth stimulants, scab, gray, white rot, mealybug, bedbugs, slugs, nematodes, snails, leaf cracks, leaf lethargy, puffiness, bumps on leaves.

How to treat an orchid

We will consider the most popular of them and ways to treat orchid diseases at home, which an ordinary florist can handle. If there is a suspicion that the plant is not feeling well, it should be quarantined immediately, away from other flowers.

Nutrient deficiency

The problem is expressed by softening of greenery with a lack of phosphorus, calcium. Foliage distortion may also occur, the cause of which is a small amount of copper, phosphorus. Sometimes shell mites, overheating. It is expressed by the dark green color of the sprouts (phosphorus), the yellow-brown tint (potassium). To replenish calcium, if the orchid is sick, the leaf has become soft, you can fertilize dolomite flour, and phosphorus top dressing with high content this element. The lack of nitrogen is expressed by the softness of the foliage, their light color, close to yellow, poor growth, small flowers. The solution to the issue is transplanting into a new soil, regular fertilizing with nitrogen-containing fertilizers for the period of green growth. Iron deficiency is indicated by stunted growth, light streaks of foliage. The solution to the problem is to lower the acidity of the substrate to 5-6.5 with filtered water, fertilizing with iron-containing stimulants.

Sticky drops inside the leaf

You need to quickly figure out what to do when the orchid is sick, because transparent dots indicate pest damage: aphids, scale insects, mealybugs, large differences in night, daytime temperatures or their absence. It is necessary to either improve the conditions of the plant, or process it laundry soap and then chemicals. Sometimes running cases pest infestations require transplanting into a new substrate with preliminary soaking with potassium permanganate, disinfection of the pot.

leaf crack

Appears due to mechanical damage, cooling after watering, rare moisture, excess nitrogen. Watering phalaenopsis is carried out in winter every 7-14 days, which depends on lighting, humidity, air temperature, in summer - once in 5-7 days. Remember, Phalaenopsis roots should dry out between waterings. When overfeeding with nitrogen, there are additional symptoms: leaf elongation, dark color, active growth. Then it is necessary to flush the root system warm shower, emergency transplant, rejection nitrogen fertilizers for 3 months, the use of phosphorus, potassium.

Rot

In the case when your orchid is sick with brown rot, you should immediately remove the affected areas by cutting them out sharp knife sprinkled with cinnamon, charcoal. Black rot is almost incurable, arising from cold temperatures. Remove the plant for quarantine, cut out a rotten place, even if it is on the neck, otherwise the flower will die. Root rot leads to loss of green turgor. It is eliminated by removing all dead roots, soaking with a solution of foundationazole, Topsin, potassium permanganate. Gray rot treated by removing damaged areas, spraying with fungicides.

Orchid diseases most often occur when excess moisture remains on the leaves and flowers, and also when the soil has poor drainage. Changes in cultivation and effective procedures sanitation can minimize almost any disease.

If your orchid dries and wilts, then this may be a symptom of various diseases. The most common orchid diseases are fungal infections. These can be diseases of leaves and flowers in the form of spots on them, as well as fungal or bacterial rot. Early detection of the disease crucial for the treatment of orchids.

The most common diseases can only be prevented or cured at an early stage

Viruses

Cymbidium mosaic and odontoglossum virus are very similar, but, nevertheless, various diseases orchids. The first appears on the orchid flower as stripes or spots, while the second appears on the leaves as spotting, discoloration and deformation. Both of these viral infections have no known cure, so if you find similar symptoms in your orchid, you need to get rid of it as soon as possible to prevent the virus from spreading to other plants.

Bacterial brown spot

This is bacterial disease, which appears on orchid leaves as a small blister spot that gradually turns brown and forms a bacterial fluid. This disease needs to be detected as early as possible because it can kill the plant very quickly. As soon as you notice the stain, you should cut out the infected area with a sterile instrument. After the infected area is cut out, you need to spray Phizan 20 or Phyton 27 on the damaged area. If neither of these products is available, you can use both cinnamon and listerine as an alternative. If this disease is not detected in time, it can spread to the crown of the orchid, which almost always leads to its death.

black rot

It is an extremely contagious disease that turns parts of the orchid jet black. The disease usually begins on leaves, shoots, or roots and can spread rapidly, especially when high temperature and humidity. To remove black rot, remove the infected area with a sterile instrument and spray a fungicide on the area you cut off.

Botrytis

This is a fungus that appears as small black or light brown spots on orchid flowers. To prevent the spread of botrytis, always remove wilted flowers or those that have already fallen off the plant. You will need to remove a fully infected flower with a sterile instrument and then spray the cut with a fungicide. Botrytis infection occurs when moisture remains on the flowers, usually after watering. Drops of water left on the flowers encourage the growth of Botrytis.

Anthracnose

The fungi that cause this disease affect most types of orchids, especially the Dendrobium. Infected plants develop dark, water-soaked lesions on stems, leaves, or flowers. The centers of these lesions are often covered with pink, gelatinous masses of spores, especially in damp, warm weather. To deal with Anthracnose without chemicals, try treating the diseased areas baking soda, mixed in a proportion of 1 tsp. per liter of water. Add 0.5 tsp/L to the solution. garden oil or insecticidal soap. Reapply after two weeks. If that doesn't work, try using a copper fungicide.

Southern late blight

The disease is also known as root rot and is a rapid decay and rotting of the roots and lower parts leaves. The base of the orchid will turn creamy yellow and the other affected tissue will turn brown. Sometimes you can find the growth of porcini mushrooms growing on stems, pseudobulbs and leaves. If this disease is detected early enough, you can cut out the affected areas with a sterile instrument and spray with a fungicide. This mushroom thrives in warm and humid environment so to prevent this disease, you can keep the plant in a slightly cooler and drier place after treatment to reduce the chance of re-infection. If the disease is widespread throughout the plant, then it is almost impossible to save it.

When trying to save a plant, it is very important never to cut the infected area, but to remove the diseased tissue while grabbing the healthy one. Otherwise, it will serve to spread the disease throughout the plant.

Orchids are pretty hardy plants and can be resurrected from many different problems if those problems are detected early enough.

By checking your orchid regularly, you can detect these problems early and deal with them in the bud.

The most common orchid pests

When pests are first detected, they must be identified quickly and correctly in order to be able to use the most effective control. In many cases, especially if there are a lot of pests, it will be necessary to treat the flower with insecticide every seven to ten days, at least three times, because the eggs are resistant to treatment and it is necessary to wait for them to hatch in order to treat again.

Aphid

Aphids come in all colors - including green, red, pink, black and yellow - and they usually live on the succulent and freshest parts of the plant, including shoots and buds. Look for clusters of aphids on flower buds, young shoots and leaves. If you see clear, sticky drops anywhere on the plant, look for aphids nearby.

Mealybugs

A fairly common pest of orchids, especially for the Phalaenopsis variety. At first glance, it seems that the leaves of the plant have some kind of fluffy white mass. Closer inspection reveals a wingless insect that feeds on plant tissue. They seem to come from nowhere and quickly spread throughout the plant or several plants. They like to hide in cracks and under leaves, so by the time we see them on top of the leaves, it is likely that their population will already be quite large. Looking under the leaves you can find powdery growths. Getting rid of this pest usually requires several treatments with insecticides.

thrips

They look like long midges and are very difficult to see with the naked eye. But damage from them is detected more easily - it manifests itself in the form light stripes on flowers or leaves. Flower buds are also commonly deformed.

Shchitovka

It is a very common pest on orchids and also occurs in different forms, but most of them have a shell that serves as a kind of armor for the insect's soft body. It is necessary that this shell be impregnated chemical and then rub the insects with your fingers to kill them effectively. They are often found on the underside of leaves near the middle vein or along the leaf margins, and also on flower stalks.

spider mite

Those tiny, fast-moving patches of red "dots" you've probably seen before. They love warmth and dryness. In the last stage of infection, you will see a thin band on the leaves. Before an infestation becomes fatal, the foliage takes on a shading effect that is the result of their feeding.

Pest control methods are listed in the following table:

PestFirst stageSecond phase

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