How to drain the swamp? drainage channel. How to drain the area from water with your own hands

I really love to solve those puzzle questions that make the imagination work and concentrate the gardening experience. It is such a task for me - the organization of landings in a wetland.

I understand that in the direction of the person who raised this topic, stones may “fly”, but I will try not to “download” problems in the swamp, but to help in finding their solution. And the conversation must begin a serious, substantive, for which it is necessary to collect information and summarize the existing positive experience.

Scientific reference

To understand the subject of discussion, I give the scientific definition of the swamp, which is most often given on the net: " A swamp is a section of the landscape characterized by excessive moisture, high acidity and low soil fertility, an outlet to the surface of stagnant or flowing groundwater, but without a permanent layer of water on the surface. The swamp is characterized by the deposition of incompletely decomposed organic matter on the soil surface, which later turns into peat. The layer of peat in swamps is at least 30 cm, if less, then these are wetlands.

So by the layer of peat you can easily determine whether your site is in a swamp or wetland. Of course, the water regime of the territory may change over time. And in many cases, it is he who plays an important role in the life of our summer cottages.

By the way, many gardeners may not even suspect that their ever-damp turns into a wetland. First of all, this can be seen from the state of vegetation: the lawn becomes sparse, grasses grow in clumps, marsh plants settle on the lawn. You can recognize them by their characteristic appearance: sedges, for example, have triangular stems ...

... and the rushes are rounded, hollow, like green onions:

Real swamps are riding(on watersheds) and grassroots, or lowlands(in gradually overgrown reservoirs, oxbow lakes). If you cut their soil like a layer cake, the differences will be clearly visible:

The soil of lowland swamps is richer due to their abundant water and mineral nutrition (mainly due to groundwater). And raised bogs, which are fed by atmospheric precipitation, have depleted soils, where there are very few minerals; their water is very acidic.

But there is also a transitional type of swamps, which, according to the state of the soil, is somewhere between these two. Of course, in such different conditions, the vegetation will be different.

Is it possible to plant a garden in a swamp?

In those days when summer cottages were organized, as a rule, unprofitable territories were allocated for them, therefore, to this day, gardening enthusiasts and professionals often face the problem of waterlogging. Yes, and primordially inhabited lands can suffer from it.

But these are all difficulties, one might say, domestic and generally surmountable, and then our “technological” ones begin, which are very serious in essence claim to the site:

• Many plants, especially woody ones, do not grow here; the possible range of landings is narrow, sometimes generally unknown.
• It is impossible to build a standard house. and constantly require correction for dampness: moisture rises from below.

There are solutions for all problems. Usually one of the main stumbling blocks is the material cost of the issue. But the eternal "know-how" and understanding of the nature of such a site are also important.

Problem Solving Approaches

Experts and scientists will say that draining the wetland will help melioration. Of course, in most cases one cannot do without professionals and equipment. By acting in an organized manner, members of the dacha association (neighbors) will be able to jointly organize and sponsor drainage work. But sometimes there is no money, and then the “herd” can try to raise this difficult issue.

Sometimes the solution to the problem of temporary flooding is to clean the reclamation canal, which is overgrown with grass or blocked by a pile of debris and plant debris. And sometimes you have to fight with neighbors who have built unauthorized structures or communications - here sometimes you can’t do without courts. A competent lawyer in a partnership is the key to solving the problem.

Drainage system device

In a wetland, building a house or other structure can be a big problem. - a modern solution to the issue of drainage, water disposal.

At first, it is desirable to carry out organized reclamation throughout the surrounding area(drainage of the lands of the dacha partnership with ditches, organization of a general drainage system, arrangement of a reservoir at the lower point of the relief). The drainage system of the site should be organized after the construction of the house, but without putting it off for a long time. The level of complexity of the system depends on the specific conditions and capabilities of the owners. By the way, many are afraid that after installing the drainage system, the landscape will look unnatural. But I think good examples can inspire you.

Here is a dark, damp corner of the garden where a stream flows:

Agree, a “dry stream” looks much more profitable, more attractive, at the bottom of which special drainage structures with pipes are installed. And light pebbles imitate water, and even brighten up a rather gloomy area:

And on top of the drainage system (under special reservations and conditions that should be agreed with specialists), you can organize walk-through zones and paths:

But such works (at least - projects), of course, are better to entrust to professionals.

House in the swamp

A house on a wetland must also correspond to the nature of the multilayer soil: pile, strip and slab foundations are possible here (the article talks about them in more detail). In my humble opinion, piles and waterproofing are the main helpers and salvation from excessive moisture. This method is the most economical, quickly implemented. But beforehand, it is necessary to conduct a study of the soil, revealing "quicksands" - swampy "pockets". It is better that professionals (geologists, surveyors) do this. Here is a link to a visualization video.

Research is carried out in the spring; for a small house - at least 5 m deep, and for a large one - at least 8 m. If no problems with the soil are found, you can start installing piles. There are some nuances here: piles come in various lengths, screw and driven type; they should be set to the level of solid ground, and not the freezing level of the soil, as in a normal, non-wetland area. Sometimes piles of different lengths are used for one house, since solid ground can be at different depths. And, unfortunately, it is excluded on such a site, which will upset the thrifty owners.

What grows by itself and what we can plant

In lowland and raised bogs there are various plants, including very useful ones.

What are we growing?

On the lowland swamps(with a smaller layer of black peat than on horseback ones) can grow,. Quite often here is calamus marsh, reeds,.

Also here you can see a series, valerian, plakun-grass (), poisonous hemlock, pepper mountaineer.

On the raised bogs(with a thick layer of peat, poor soil with high acidity), less demanding plants settle: sometimes birch, cotton grass, sphagnum moss, cassandra, sheikhzeria, cuckoo flax.

In any case, you will have a poor one that will have to be alkalized and improved. The ideal option is to bring in a lot of clay soil, sand, and mix with peat. To neutralize the increased acidity, it is necessary to add dolomite flour (the amount depends on which plants are cultivated).

On such a plot, all plants that grow here initially, as well as most of the representatives of related species and their varieties, are successfully cultivated. Particular attention, in my opinion, can be paid to varieties of cranberries, blueberries, heather, ornamental sedges.

What will we plant?

After reclamation has been carried out, the soil has been partially replaced, its acidity has been neutralized, plants can be planted on the site for moderately moist soils: marsh and Siberian, swamp, river gravilate, common cuckoo color, volzhanka (arunkus), buttercups, black cohosh, rogersia, moisture-loving, decodon (these are different plants!), cortuses, hemp-shaped vine,. You can even try to grow lysichiton, various orchids.

If there is a strong desire to equip the lawn, then you need to choose legumes and cereals that can withstand flooding (just keep in mind that they can be quite high): bluegrass meadow, fibrous wheatgrass, hybrid, common beckmania, reed dwarf, red fescue, shakers, odorous spikelet , awnless bonfire, white and giant bent grass, large mannik, reed canary grass, reed grass, blue sesleria, marsh rank, meadow foxtail, blue lightning.

Fruit and berry garden in the swamp

But what to do if there is a desire to plant fruit trees? Of course, it is better to try varieties that have proven themselves in flooding conditions: small in size, respectively, with a more compact root system. Landing should be organized on small mounds (ridges, elevated areas), fenced with dug boards or stones to prevent soil from spreading.

Of course, the types and varieties of berries that grow in swamps and wetlands deserve special mention: cranberries and blueberries (certain species, varieties),. Seedlings of these crops are already appearing frequently in garden centers. Their agricultural technology in a wetland is not difficult, and your dacha will have its own "chip" - the envy of friends and an example for neighbors. However, problems can arise with blueberries: they do not tolerate stagnant water, so drainage must be carefully monitored.

And also...

Perhaps you should try to "populate" the mycelium and grow mushrooms right on the site.

Moss cultivation technologies are of interest; the compositions created in this way look quite original on garden sculptures, vases, decorative stones and just on the ground.

In a problematic, waterlogged area, these narrow horticultural topics can be developed. But it's important to remember essential features cultivation of any plants in such conditions: the growing season here will be somewhat shorter, and you will have to constantly monitor soil acidity and drainage conditions.

Good Examples

There are few examples of swamp gardens, but they exist! They are the shining examples to follow. Recently, I learned that in the center of Moscow, in the new Zaryadye park, a site is being planned that imitates a swampy area. Insanely interesting, how will the designers work? This section will represent the tundra zone, where, in fact, there is a continuous swampy area.

And the example of water gardens in the Moscow region is also indicative, where the theme of water, including swamp gardens,. Even scientific institutions - botanical gardens - organize special plots where marsh plants are planted.

But the most stunning garden in the swamp is a park in the city of Jinhua. The scale of this project is amazing.



So we should not be afraid either: it is better to make mistakes and find the only right solution than to sit back and dream.

Choosing approaches to design

If we are organizing a garden in a country house in a swampy area, then in choosing a color scheme it is worth paying attention to the general light and warm colors. A variety of flowering and decorative leafy species is welcome. It is extremely important to take care of the continuous decorativeness of the garden, which can partly be achieved through the original layout of the site, the use of small architectural forms, interesting pavements and road grid patterns. A properly selected contrast of shapes, colors, textures of plants and buildings will certainly play its role.

If we miss any element among the plant components, we can try to compensate for this by other means, for example, by painting the house; using garden decor; installation of new lighting that changes the appearance of the garden; organization of light paths, bright dumping.

A pond on such a site is not a luxury, it is just a logical given from nature! Having arranged it, we will create an atmosphere of a water garden, not a swamp garden, we will successfully “tie” all the small details to the pond as the center of the composition. Near the reservoir, you can use a lot of coastal, floating and aquatic plants, among which, of course, there will certainly be their queen -.

The choice depends on what kind of body of water you have (area, depth, nature of the bottom). But I think that it is during the design that you need to set a goal: to grow ... And then we rely on our material and physical capabilities.

Small architectural forms and can be both traditional (preferably taking into account high humidity), and creative, shocking. For example, these:

Well, summer residents who are not prone to extreme sports will probably like the classic stories more:

I think I managed to convince you that a swampy summer cottage can become cozy, comfortable, and outwardly attractive. I wonder how you solved and solve such problems?

Excess water in the summer cottage leads to soil leaching, a decrease in the yield of horticultural crops, and deformation of residential and outbuildings. In this case, it is important for everyone who has encountered such a problem to know how to drain the area from water with their own hands.

What influences the choice of dehumidification method

The accumulation of water on the site can occur for many reasons, but the main ones are the following:

• groundwater level rise;
• the site is located in the lowlands, which contributes to the rapid accumulation of precipitation;
• clayey and loamy soils with low moisture absorption coefficient.

The most problematic places on the site are determined in the off-season, when the maximum amount of precipitation falls - in early spring and late autumn. It is recommended to pump water from the site during the dry period - in summer.

Rapid drainage of the land is carried out by several methods. When choosing an appropriate solution to the problem, it is necessary to take into account the main factors:

• type and level of water permeability of the soil;
• size of land;
• optimal level of water drop;
• the period of soil drainage from groundwater;
• finished buildings on the site that require drainage;
• direction of underground sources;
• presence and type of vegetation.

The most popular methods of draining the land on the site are the drainage system, sewage pits and ditches, landscape design elements, moisture-loving shrubs and trees.

Closed and open drainage systems

Modern drainage systems allow you to quickly and effectively get rid of excess fluid in the area. Simple drainage consists of a pipeline and a water receiver. A stream, lake, river, ravine or ditch can be used as a water intake.

The drainage system is equipped from the water intake to the land plot, observing the optimal distance between its main elements. On dense soils with a high content of clay, the distance between individual drains should be 8–10 meters, on loose and heaving soils - up to 18 meters.

open drainage

The open or French drainage system is a shallow ditches, the bottom of which is filled with fine gravel and stones. Such drainage is arranged quite simply: a ditch of small depth is dug out with the discharge of effluents into a drainage well or a deep trench to the level of the sand layer, which is used as a drainage cushion.

A drainage well measuring 1×1 m can have a closed and open design, its bottom is filled with gravel of the middle fraction and brick breakage. Such structures do not clog, but are filled with soil, which is washed out with water. For this reason, draining this type of well is much more difficult than an open gutter.

Closed drainage

A technically sophisticated device that will quickly remove excess water and prevent it from stagnation. The arrangement of closed drainage is carried out using pipes made of clay or asbestos cement with laying in a certain order - in a straight line or herringbone. Closed-type drainage is suitable for areas located on a slight slope, which provides a natural flow of water.

Closed drains are often combined with drainage systems that allow water to be carried away from the base of the house.

Sewage pits and ditches

Many owners choose a fairly simple way to solve the problem of draining areas by digging drains and ditches. The arrangement of a cone-shaped pit is carried out as follows: at the lowest point, you need to dig a pit up to 100 cm deep, up to 200 cm wide at the top and 55 cm at the bottom. The dehumidification system is quite efficient, since excess moisture can be discharged into sewers without the use of additional funds.

The process of arranging sewers is more laborious, but no less effective. Ditches are dug along the entire perimeter of the territory - the depth and width is 45 cm. The walls are made at an angle of 25 degrees. The bottom is laid out with a brick battle or gravel. The main disadvantage of ditches is their gradual shedding, so it is worthwhile to carry out timely cleaning and strengthening the walls with boards or concrete slabs.

Landscape design elements - streams and ponds

We effectively get rid of excess water on the site thanks to the arrangement of artificial ponds and streams. Similar elements of landscape design can be organized in areas located at a slight slope.

Water sources are best arranged in dark places to avoid water blooms. The bottom of the artificial pond is laid out with stone or geotextile.

To enhance the effect, moisture-loving vegetation can be planted next to an artificial reservoir - shrubs, plants, grass.

Such landscape forms are structurally reminiscent of the French drainage system, since they are equipped according to the same principle.

Moisture-loving plantations - shrubs, trees and grass

To drain the soil, moisture-loving trees, shrubs and grasses are used, which are able to pump out excess water.

In order for green spaces to remove moisture, you need to know which varieties are recommended to be planted on the site. Such plantations include: willow, birch, maple, alder and poplar.

Shrubs are no less in demand: hawthorn, wild rose and vesicle. In moist soils, hydrangea, shadberry, spirea, mock orange and Amur lilac develop.

To give the site attractiveness and aesthetics, moisture-loving garden flowers are planted - iris, aquilegia and asters.

Too moist soil is not suitable for growing fruit trees - pears, apples, plums and apricots. Therefore, when choosing trees, it is better to give preference to seedlings with a superficial root system. Planting trees is carried out on hills up to 55 cm high.

To do this, a peg is driven into the soil, the earth around it is dug up to a depth of 25 cm. A prepared seedling is tied to the peg, the roots are sprinkled with earth with the addition of humus. The root neck remains exposed to a height of up to 8 cm above the ground.

After planting is completed, the seedling is watered abundantly with water to get rid of the air gaps between the root system and the soil.

Important! Excessively wet soil has an increased acidity, therefore, when draining, it is recommended to additionally carry out its liming. This will improve the quality of the soil for further gardening and farm work.

During operation, the condition of the soil on the site is carefully checked, since excess moisture can have a negative impact on horticultural crops, residential and outbuildings. The procedure for draining the soil is recommended to be carried out simultaneously with liming.

Now every landowner knows the answer to the question of how to get rid of water on the site and do it right. This will require free time, desire and financial investments.

A large amount of water interferes with farming and contributes to the destruction of structures. In addition, excess moisture leaches nutrients from the soil. The foundation, which is constantly exposed to water, is destroyed over time, so it is important for owners who are faced with such a problem to figure out how to drain the area from water with their own hands.

Water drainage is necessary only on loamy and clay soils. Sandstones do not need water drainage, since they themselves play the role of drainage.

Choose a method

To drain the summer cottage from water, use several methods. Before you start choosing the right one, you need to consider the following nuances:

• How permeable is the soil in the area.
• In what direction does groundwater move?
• The time it takes to complete the work.
• The number of buildings on the territory of the suburban area.

Method 1

It is possible to organize the diversion of groundwater without using pipes. To do this, you need to dig deep trenches, which are subsequently filled with filter material. The best option for this purpose will be gravel, sand. They need to be covered in layers. In this case, it is advisable to use peat, which effectively protects the backfill from dirt.

Method 2

You can drain the site from groundwater using a pipe system. Experts recommend using perforated polymer pipes. The pipe must be laid below the freezing level of the ground.

When using ordinary sewer pipes to drain liquid, holes must be made in them.

How to do the job step by step

Instructions for the device of soft drainage

You can use the economical method. But in the process of performing work, you need to be prepared for high labor costs. For the drainage device you will need:

• hacksaw;
• shovel;
• drainage pipes;
• manual tamper;
• building level and rail;
• wheelbarrow;
• geotextile;
• crushed stone;
• sand.

The order of work will be as follows:

1. At the initial stage, you need to dig trenches, which should be parallel to each other. It is important to keep a distance of 4 meters between the ditches. It is worth noting that the step must be done taking into account the density of the soil. On heavy soils take a smaller step.
2. Choose a place to install a drainage well.
3. When doing work, you need to make a system with a slope to drain water into the well. For this purpose, it is worth using the building level.

Closed drainage device technology

1. When installing the system, the ends of the dug trenches are connected into one and led to the drainage well. It is worth remembering that the trench should be sloped. If it is impossible to do the work in this way, you need to make several drainage wells.
2. A pillow of a mixture of gravel and sand is laid at the bottom of the trenches. The layer thickness can reach 50 mm.
3. Now you can start laying the drainage pipes. The most commonly used perforated polymer products.
4. Before laying pipes, it is important to wrap them with geotextile. This is necessary to prevent clogging of the holes during their operation. An analogue of the material is coconut fiber.
5. After laying the pipes in place, the trench is covered with gravel and sand. In the process of performing work, it is necessary to limit the contact of pipes with the soil as much as possible.

How to do spot drainage

If there is no desire to make a large-scale system, you can give preference to point drainage.

1. For this purpose, holes are made along the perimeter of the site, the depth of which must be at least 2 m. A distance of 5 m can be maintained between the holes. The diameter of the holes depends on the size of the pipe, which will subsequently need to be inserted into them.
2. A mixture of sand and gravel is poured into the bottom of the holes.
3. At the next stage, pipe sections wrapped with coconut fiber are inserted vertically. It is important to choose a pipe diameter so that the drainage pump can pass into it.

Using this method, it is necessary to regularly pump water out of the wells. On average, once a week is enough. Pumping out water is simple, the process does not take much time.

The above method of draining the site is applicable only if you need to remove a small amount of water at a low groundwater level.

Drainage of marshland

In order to drain a swampy area, you can resort to a not quite standard, but effective method.

1. Work should begin with marking the direction of the drainage trenches. There is no need for large wide trenches. The ditch should be up to 30 cm wide, and two bayonet spades deep. Marking is carried out using a rope and pegs. The ditch system should be made with a herringbone slope. Boundary ditches can merge into one main one.
2. Before you start digging, you need to lay out polyethylene on both sides of the future ditch. Sod is laid on one side, and a layer of infertile soil is laid on the other side.
3. After the ditch is ready, empty plastic bottles can be placed in two layers (pre-rolled). They are an analogue of special drainage pipes. They are durable and perform their function well.
4. Barren soil is laid on top of the bottles up to half of the ditch, rammed.
5. At the final stage, the turf is laid.

The main function of this method is the flow of water through free gaps into the main ditch. Thus, after rains and snow, the soil will dry out faster.

If the purchased suburban area is located on a peat bog, its owners will have to perform a number of works to improve the soil on it. The land in such places, unfortunately, cannot be considered too suitable for growing various kinds of crops. The soil in peatlands contains very little oxygen, which replaces methane. Also, such areas in spring and autumn turn into a real swamp due to flooding. How to drain the peat allotment if necessary - we will talk about this later in the article.

Ways to improve

In some cases, the problem of swampiness of the allotment can be solved in a very simple way - by adding a certain amount of land brought from outside. But, of course, it is possible to use such a technique only when water is collected at the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland and has a relatively small size. In all other cases, water has to be diverted from the dressing.

The answer to the question of how to drain the site, in this case, can be two technologies:

superficial;

with piping.

The first method is considered the easiest. Open drainage in a wetland with your own hands will be absolutely easy to do. But when using pipes, you can equip a more efficient drainage system.

Diversion with ditches

This method is a good answer to the question of how to drain a swamp on a peat bog. The advantage of this method, among other things, is that when it is used, the owners will not have to spend a penny to drain water from the site. For drainage, in this case, a ditch about 50 cm wide and at least 1 m deep is dug along the edge of the allotment on the side that is located below the others.

If there is a slightly higher, also swampy neighboring area nearby, a trench should also be made on the border with it. This will close access to water from someone else's allotment.

Subsequently, in the process of execution on the site, various kinds of channels will need to be filled with all kinds of construction and garden waste. It can be, for example, stones, broken bricks, weeds, etc.

Benefits of using pipes

The open method of draining water through ditches is simple and cheap. However, this technique is used only in not very wetlands. In all other cases, it is advisable to equip allotments with full-fledged drainage systems using perforated pipes.

The answer to the question of how to drain the swamp in the garden, such technology in most cases is just perfect. The advantages of such outlet networks, among other things, include:

more uniform and faster regulation of the water balance in the soil;

the ability to cover the entire area of ​​​​the site.

When using such sleeves pass underground. Due to this, the usable area of ​​​​the site is not reduced. When growing garden crops on such an allotment, it will be possible to make beds, including directly above the pipes.

How to set up a closed system

In this case, ditches are also dug on the site to drain water. In this case, the main trench is located along the perimeter of the allotment. Next, ditches are dug over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site.

When using this method of drainage, a waterproofing agent is laid at the bottom of the dug trenches - a thick film or roofing material. Next, a layer of medium-sized rubble or pebbles is poured into the ditches. Perforated pipes are laid on top. In order to prevent the holes of such drainage lines from becoming clogged in the future, they are pre-wrapped with geotextiles.

Pipes are connected at the points of convergence or intersection of ditches using tees or fittings-corners. Above these network elements, manholes made of plastic or concrete are necessarily equipped. If there are such additions in the system, in the future it will be very easy to eliminate blockages that appear in the highways and clean them from accumulating sludge.

What you need to know

Of course, in order for the water to subsequently leave the section through the pipes by gravity, they must be laid at a slope. Otherwise, it will not work to dry the dressing. Unfortunately, it is impossible to mount the drainage network lines under too great a slope. In this case, the pipes will subsequently silt up very quickly. It is also not worth doing a very small slope of the drainage channels. Otherwise, the system will subsequently work inefficiently.

In most cases, when arranging garden sewage networks, pipes are laid at an angle of 0.5 to 3 cm per linear meter. It is not worth deviating from these parameters up or down.

receiving well

How to drain the site with pipes, we thus found out. But where can you put the excess water itself? You can drain it from the site, if it is located on the outskirts, simply beyond its aisles - into some ravine, stream or pond. But if neighboring plots are located next to the swampy garden, a special well will have to be equipped to receive wastewater. If desired, such a container can also be built on a site located on the outskirts. After all, the water collected during drainage can later be used to irrigate the same beds.

Receiving wells are being equipped at the lowest point of the suburban area using the following technology:

a hole is dug in the ground, into which the main drainage trench is inserted;

the bottom and walls of the pit are concreted with a layer of 5-10 cm.

Of course, in the concrete structures of the well, when pouring, holes should be provided for the installation of pipes.

Instead of a concrete structure, plastic can also be used when arranging the drainage system. It will not be difficult to purchase such a container from companies specializing in the supply of equipment for drain systems.

receiving pond

In most cases, the owners of vegetable gardens on peat bogs, of course, equip a well to drain water. But instead of it, if desired, you can make an artificial reservoir on the site - a beautiful decorative pond. In this case, a foundation pit is also dug in the ground, but wider.

The bottom and walls of the pit for arrangement on the site of an artificial reservoir are thoroughly cleaned of roots and stones. Further, the pit is lined with a durable waterproofing material - best of all with a thick film. Through the holes in the film, drainage pipes are led into the pond. You can disguise them at the bottom, for example, with beautiful stones or some kind of aquatic plants. In summer, it will be possible to release even unpretentious fish from the aquarium into this reservoir. Spectacular marsh plants are usually planted around the pond.

Main difficulty

In principle, as you can see, the answer to the question of how to drain the area from water with your own hands is quite simple. The most difficult task in this case is likely to be the physically demanding excavation work. After all, there are actually a lot of ditches on the site. However, in order for such a system to work as efficiently as possible, it is, of course, necessary to lay trenches on the site, first of all, in the right places.

It is best, of course, to entrust the project of arranging the drainage system of a wetland allotment to a specialist. A professional will be able to take into account all the nuances of the relief of a particular area. However, projects of drainage systems in suburban areas are, unfortunately, quite expensive. If there is no money to order a pipe laying plan, you can try to develop it yourself. In order to find out where it is best to dig drainage trenches, you will have to wait for the first heavy rain. Observing the streams flowing down the ground, it will be possible to accurately determine the optimal location of the trenches.

How to drain a swamp: using moisture-loving plants

Of course, in most cases, it is possible to drain a wetland only in cardinal ways - by arranging ditches or laying pipes. But as an additional measure in such a garden, it is also worth planting plants that draw a lot of water from the ground. It can be, for example, willows, birches or maples. Such trees, since they have a significant height, are planted, of course, usually on the north side of the allotment. Otherwise, in the future, they will block plantings, which, in turn, can easily lead to a decrease in the yield of horticultural and horticultural crops.

The high level of groundwater in the area can also be reduced with the help of shrubs. For example, a lot of water from the soil can be taken by hawthorn, wild rose, vesicle, irga. Such plants can be planted around the perimeter of the site to create a hedge.

Methane in soil

Of course, after draining by open drainage or by laying pipes, the land on the site will, in any case, become more suitable for growing garden and horticultural crops in terms of composition. But in order to further improve its quality, site owners will have to:

scatter a mixture of clay and sand over the site with a thin layer;

carefully dig the allotment using a shovel or, preferably, a motor cultivator.

Of course, a very good solution would be to scatter around the site, in addition to clay and sand, before digging, also manure mixed with sawdust. This will not only improve the structure of the soil, but also make it more fertile and nutritious. The introduction of various kinds of mineral fertilizers into the soil will also make it more suitable for growing garden and horticultural plants.

Advantages of peatlands

So, we figured out how to drain the area from water with our own hands and improve the soil on it. Such an allotment can, of course, cause a lot of trouble for its owner. However, peatlands, in comparison with other types of soils, have their own advantages. For example, in such areas, plants usually tolerate winters much better. The earth on peat bogs is frozen slowly, in thin layers. At the same time, the soil on such allotments never freezes too deep. So on such an allotment, after it has been drained, you can plant, for example, heat-loving roses, apricots, etc.

Waterlogged soil on the site is always a problem. Unpleasant fumes, hordes of mosquitoes in summer, wetting of garden plants poison the life of lovers of country rest. The swamp needs to dry up. How can I do that?

First of all, you should understand the causes of stagnant water in the soil. Depending on this, develop a strategy to combat this unpleasant phenomenon.

Causes of waterlogging of the soil

It is not so easy for a specialist to figure out what caused the swamp to form. It is useful to inspect neighboring lands, to get acquainted with the surroundings. Here are 2 main reasons for excess soil moisture:

• The site is located in a lowland near a natural reservoir, groundwater comes very close to the surface;
• The natural flow of water after rains is disturbed.

The first reason is less likely to be true - people usually do not take building plots in a swamp. Problems with insufficient water drainage are much more common. The root of the problem could be:

• there is a natural source on the site that feeds the swamp, requiring clearing and drainage of water;
• your garden plot is located below the neighboring ones, all the water after the rain flows down to you;
• features of the structure of the layers and relief: a thick layer of clay is located close to the surface, which does not allow rainwater to be absorbed;

How to get rid of the swamp?

The first piece of advice you'll get is to fill the swamp with sand or soil. This is the easiest, cheapest and most wrong way. This method does not bring positive results, sooner or later the swamp returns to its former form. It is an unusually stable ecological system.

It is impossible to displace water by filling. It also won't work to pull it out. There is only one way to completely drain the swamp - to let the water leave this area. To do this, make drainage, through which water will flow. It’s good if she has somewhere to go, but it happens that the site is lower than the neighboring ones or there are obstacles in the way of the running water (building, road). In this case, it is useful to choose a compromise option.

Here are some good ideas to help dry out waterlogged soil. Often these decisions are always the wisest.

Make a pond

Growing up, trees absorb and evaporate more and more water, acting as a constantly working pump. If the soil on the site is heavy, clayey, then the roots of trees, penetrating it in different directions, gradually change its structure.

If the site is large enough, then planting such natural dehumidifiers along its perimeter will be effective, and the efficiency will increase every year.

Make a catchment well and drainage

If the site is small and there is no place for a pond, then you can make a water intake well. It is a construction of concrete rings or a plastic container (this option is simpler and more practical). It is protected from clogging and silting with sprinkling and geotextiles. Drainage pipes are brought to the well to collect water from the site.

The water that is collected there can be used for irrigation during dry times or pumped out and discharged through pipes into a natural reservoir.

A water intake well is considered the best option for a site under which a layer of clay lies, and a layer of fertile soil on top of it is small. Rainwater in such a place does not go deep, so in the spring and during the rains there is a swamp here, in the summer heat the soil dries up. Mosquitoes, silt, the smell of rotting mud - these are the charms of such a site. Growing anything is hard. What does not dry out in the spring will dry up in the summer, but there is no benefit.

You can build a drainage system, including a water intake well and grooves for collecting water, and you can do it yourself. The cost of such a structure is small, and the benefits can be invaluable.

In the event that these measures do not help get rid of the swamp, then only a specialist can help solve the problem. A full-fledged drainage system with all the work is not cheap, but only this way will get rid of the waterlogging of the soil.