How to grow homemade blueberries. Is it possible to transplant blueberries to another place: in autumn, spring, summer, terms and rules

Nature gives a person the opportunity to be healthy and prolong his life. And this is not so difficult to achieve if you grow the right plants on your site. These include garden blueberries, which are often called "fool" or "drunk" in the common people. But such impartial names arose due to confusion with a plant often adjacent to blueberries in nature - rosemary, which causes a negative effect on the body. In fact, blueberries are a healthy crop that is widely used in everyday life. We offer you to get acquainted with it in more detail, its features.

Description of blueberries

Garden blueberry (Vaccinium uliginosum) is a species of deciduous plants from the genus Vaccinium of the Heather family, a common name that combines several fairly different shrubs. It is considered a distant relative of lingonberries and blueberries.

Therefore, even experts sometimes wonder what is the difference between blueberries and blueberries. But it still exists, is that:

• there are no hairs on the root system;
• brown or saturated gray bark is located on the surface of cylindrical branches;
• the color of its fruits and juice is much more delicate and does not leave stains when it comes into contact with human skin.

The height of the bush varies from 1 to 2 m. Blueberry leaves are usually obovate with a rounded upper part and slightly rounded edges. The front part is covered with a wax coating, which gives the leaf a beautiful greenish color with a blue tint. Veins are visible on the wrong side and it is pale in color.

Pitcher-shaped corolla flowers with five lowered teeth of a white-pinkish flower reach 6 cm in length. Flowers appear on two-year-olds on the top of the stalk in several pieces at once.

The length of the elongated purple-blue berries is about 1 cm, the weight varies from 1 to 25 g. The blueberry berry is thin-skinned, bluish in color. And its flesh has a pale greenish color.

When wondering where blueberries grow, its versatility for cool and moderately cold areas should be noted.

In an effort to acquire a useful and beautiful plant, many gardeners pay attention to shrubs, berries, which can help cope with chronic ailments.
Growing garden blueberries is not such a difficult process, but several generations of site owners will receive the harvest. To get a full-fledged garden, it is better to use several varieties at once. This promotes better pollination.

Planting and caring for garden blueberries

Planting garden blueberries is possible both in autumn and in spring, but with slight differences. The site is selected according to several parameters:

• windless;
• groundwater at the level of 30-40 cm;
• without predecessors for 2-3 years;
• good lighting;
• neighboring vegetation is not closer than 1.5 m;
• peat drained soil with the addition of loamy-sandy.

You will need to take care of the level of soil acidity. Optimal - 3.5-4.5 pH. The pit is dug 60 cm in diameter, and in depth - up to half a meter. The bottom is covered with an oxidizing mixture of sawdust, sand, peat composition and needles.

• before planting, the roots are placed in water for half an hour. With light movements (so as not to damage) straighten the root system (it is unacceptable to transplant with the earth from the pot in a single piece - the rhizome will weaken and die);
• Cover the roots with the same mixture so that the root collar reaches 3 cm deep. Fertilizers are not applied during planting;
• The area around the bush for half a meter (trunk circle) is mulched. Mulch height - 12 cm.

Planted blueberries in the fall require pruning of shrunken, non-viable branches completely and half of all the rest.

In a row, the distance between the bushes should be at least one and a half meters, in the aisles - three and a half meters.

Growing blueberries involves:

• weeding. It is taken into account that the root system is superficial. Therefore, weeding is carried out very carefully, without injuring the roots and no more than 3 times a year to level the drying of the soil. Loosening is allowed along with mulch, which after the procedure is replenished without fail. If weeds appear in close proximity to the bush, they are pulled out.
• Watering. Under one bush goes 10 liters of water twice a day at least twice a week. And in the summer heat, foliage and stems are additionally sprayed. Watering is carried out exclusively in the morning and evening. The lack of moisture reduces the number of fruits and adversely affects the growth of the bush. Stagnant water is also dangerous for the plant.
• pruning. Garden blueberries are periodically cleared of thickening and dry branches both inside and adjacent to the ground. Stems that are 5 or more years old are also cut out. This is usually done in the spring before sap flow and swelling of the kidneys or in preparation for wintering. The appearance of signs of disease or pests is a signal for the procedure in the summer. Ideally, the bush should have 4 strong stems.

Harvesting does not begin when the berries turn purple, but when they become soft, filled with sugar. The procedure is performed no more than once a week.

Care should be taken to overwinter the plant. If the winter is not snowy or the temperature drops to -25°C, additional protection is required. Garden blueberries are covered with burlap and spruce branches, after carefully lowering the branches to the ground. And after the snow falls, they also fall asleep with them for warming.

Despite the fact that the cultivation of garden blueberries has gained popularity in our latitudes due to the frost resistance of the plant, it can only withstand temperatures down to -28. Although it recovers after severe frosts quite easily, it takes more effort than after a normal wintering, therefore, the yield decreases.

Fertilizing garden blueberries

Top dressing consists exclusively of mineral fertilizers. Organics (manure and compost) are harmful to blueberry bushes. Top dressing should be done at least twice a year: in spring for better flowering and fruiting of the plant and in autumn to help prepare for wintering.

Blueberries require superphosphate (100 g in the summer-autumn period), ammonium sulfate (40 g at the beginning of sap flow; 35 g - in early May; 25 g - June), magnesium sulfate (15 g per season), potassium sulfate and zinc sulfate ( 2 g per season). Feeding blueberries in the fall eliminates the weakening of the plant, which can be seen in the spring by the yellowness or reddening of the leaf, the appearance of spots on it, and the deformation of the leaf plate. You can use both mono-fertilizers, filling the lack of one component in the soil, and complex, as well as special for this type of plant.

Shrub propagation

Reproduction of garden blueberries occurs in three ways: seeds, cuttings and dividing the bush. This allows you to both purchase different varieties and grow them initially in a certain area, and use your own planting material, reducing the cost of the procedure.

The first, the most time-consuming - seed. The fruits are cut, the seeds are dried. In autumn, sowing is carried out in backlogs with oxidized peat. In the spring planting, the seeds undergo a stratification procedure by aging in the freezer for 3 months. The deepening of the beds is 1 cm, the powder is made of sand and peat on top, where the first element is 3 times the amount of the second. Requirements for growing seeds:

• temperature from 23 to 25°C;
• moisture 40%;
• careful watering, weeding and loosening of the earth;
• the introduction of nitrogenous mixtures for two-year-olds and older bushes.

Blueberry seedlings can be transferred to a permanent place after 2 years.

The blueberry bush is subject to vegetative propagation: division, cuttings. Rhizome cuttings not less than 10 cm and not more than 15 cm are harvested in early spring or late autumn. For a month, the blanks are placed in the basement, where the temperature is kept from 1 to 5 ° C. The mixture for planting is the same: three parts of sand and one part of peat. 5 cm deep. Transplantation is also carried out after 2 years, as is the case with seeds.

If the root system has reached half a meter, then division of the bush is also acceptable.

The advantage of vegetative propagation is the early appearance of fruits - on average after 4 years. The seed method of reproduction gives the result in the form of a crop after 7 years. Garden blueberries, planting and caring for them are no more difficult than with other shrubs. And the benefits and productivity in many ways surpass even the related blueberries.

Diseases and pests

Garden blueberries are quite resistant to adverse conditions and pest attacks, but there is a whole range of nuances that should be taken into account when growing them. And the absence of one of them can provoke a weakening of the protective function and, a decrease in yield or death of the plant.

The most common pests are:

• birds;
• Khrushchev and May bugs;
• leafworms, caterpillars and acacia false shields.

They fight beetles by placing them in a saline solution, or with the help of Karbofos or Actellikom preparations. They are also used for prevention in the spring before the start of sap flow and in the fall, after harvesting.

The most common diseases are:

• fungus;
• viral diseases.

The first group is mostly treated, and the second requires the removal of the infected bush from the site to prevent infection of other plants. Pests can be prevented from entering the plant by spraying with herbicides annually, and fungicide preparations will help to cope with diseases.

Using culture in garden design

Garden blueberries are great at creating natural enclosures to zone a space.

They look great as the central figures in the composition, but do not tolerate close proximity to other bushes and trees. More often they are used in monocompositions.

Useful properties of blueberries and contraindications

They make jam from blueberries, make compotes from dried berries, tinctures, and other home medicine drugs. Garden blueberries are often frozen for the winter; they are not stored in a conventional refrigerator for more than half a month. Moderate and regular consumption of berries prolongs life and adds health to a person.
The Internet is filled with stories about the benefits of blueberries. The main positive properties lie in the following:

• antiscorbutic;
• anti-inflammatory;
• hypotensive;
• choleretic;
• anti-sclerotic;
• cardiotonic agent.

The benefits and harms of blueberries are being actively discussed, but even its opponents cannot object to the fact that the provitamin A, vitamins B1, B2, C, PP present in it have a uniquely positive effect on the human immune system. A positive effect is observed in diseases of the gastrointestinal tract, fever and diabetes mellitus, eye spasm and poor vision, radioactive contamination and even precancerous conditions of the body, diarrhea and dysentery, and cardiovascular problems.

But remember! Overeating berries can cause allergic reactions, vomiting and nausea, and muscle dysfunction.

The best types and varieties of garden blueberries

But regardless of the external characteristics, the beneficial properties of blueberries can hardly be overestimated for the human body. Therefore, it is used everywhere both for the prevention of diseases and for the removal of symptoms of diseases such as diabetes mellitus, with problems with the gastrointestinal tract and even with radioactive contamination.

There are two main types of plants:

Popular varieties of blueberries

In our latitudes, the following varieties are most popular:

• Garden blueberry "Blucrop"(Bluecrop). Withstands up to -34 ° C. In height - from 1.2 to 1.8 m. Harvest is already in early August. Efficiency - from 6 to 9 kg per bush.
• "Sunrise" (Sunrise). Srednerosly bush, does not require frequent pruning. Ripens from mid-July. Harvest - up to 4 kg.
• "Northland" (Northland). Low-growing (up to 1 m), high-yielding - up to 8 kg of berries from a bush.
• garden blueberry"Elizabeth" (Elizabeth). Spreading and frost-resistant bush, reaches up to 1.7 meters in height, giving 5-6 kg of berries per bush.

Patriot blueberry is also popular in our latitudes due to its high yield and ability to take root in low winter temperatures. Tall varieties are more enduring than ordinary ones, but not all can withstand frost in a snowless period. American bushes are known to us as garden blueberries. Popularity has gained not only its varieties, but also hybrids bred in America and Canada. They are very frost-resistant, which is suitable for our climatic conditions. The choice of a suitable seedling is the main task of a gardener who seeks not only to decorate his site, but also to get practical benefits from the plant. Following all the recommendations, you will be able to get good yields of blueberries.

It has not always been a cultivated plant. Wild blueberries naturally grow in many areas and in most countries. Through the efforts of breeders, gardeners have the opportunity to grow blueberries on the site. Garden blueberries are a very unpretentious plant, planting and caring for blueberry bushes is available to anyone who knows the basics of agricultural technology and knows how to perform garden care procedures.

planting blueberries

Blueberry planting begins long before the seedling is transferred to the ground. The success of growing blueberries depends on the proper preparation of the site and the seedling itself for the planting procedure.

Choosing a place for planting blueberries

Like most crops, the location of the beds, lighting, temperature and humidity levels around are important for garden blueberries. We will study in more detail the process of preparing the beds for planting blueberries.

• Lighting for blueberries. Blueberry is a photophilous culture. The lack of sufficient lighting will affect not only the health of the garden shrub, but also the size and even the taste of blueberries. But when choosing an open and lit place for blueberries, remember that the shrub does not tolerate drafts. Therefore, the best place would be a plot near the house or fence on the south side, away from the canopy and tree crowns.

• Soil for blueberries. Another important aspect of site selection, and another reason to plant blueberries away from the orchard. Large trees compete with blueberries in water intake. The soil for blueberries should have high drainage properties, since waterlogging of the surface layers leads to diseases of the blueberry root system. It is noteworthy that the proximity of groundwater and the moistening of the lower soil layers of blueberries are not terrible, since the root system of the shrub is superficial and does not reach deep into the soil.

Special mention must be made of planting dates for blueberries. If we are talking about blueberry seedlings with a closed root system, then there are no specific dates, they can be planted during the entire growing season. For blueberry seedlings with an open root system, the optimal planting time will be autumn, so that the plant has time to take root before the start of the growing season. Planting blueberries in the spring is possible, but in this case, you should not expect flowering and fruiting in the year of planting.

Preparing a site for planting blueberries

Start preparing the beds for planting shrubs in advance, using the proposed step-by-step instructions.

• The dimensions of the pit for blueberries are a square with a side of 0.8 m, the depth of the pit is not less than 0.5 m.
• To achieve the desired drainage effect, mix fertile soil with coniferous sawdust, conifer bark, small broken branches, and add moss.
• At this stage, it is necessary to feed the soil by introducing into the pit with a high content of nitrogen and sulfur.
• In addition to fertilizers, it is necessary to take into account the acidity of the soil, since blueberries love acidic soils, the acidity level of which does not exceed 4.5. For acidification, use store-bought mixtures or regular vinegar and lemon juice. If the dosage is overdone and the soils become too acidic, blueberry leaves will begin to turn red.

planting blueberries

When the place is chosen and prepared, we proceed directly to planting blueberry seedlings.

1. Properly position the plantings to achieve the most abundant blueberry harvest. Plant blueberry bushes in rows. Between each bush, observe the same interval: when growing tall blueberry varieties, leave at least 1.5 m between the pits, if planting low-growing blueberry varieties - 1 m is enough.
2. Proper row spacing is also important, as overcrowded plantings will reduce the amount of sun available to each shoot, which will negatively impact fruit flavor, size, immunity, and blueberry disease. Leave at least 2 m between rows, regardless of variety.
3. In a hole prepared for planting, pour soil into a hill, place a seedling on this hill, carefully spreading the roots around. Fill the hole with soil, lightly tamp, pour abundantly and the garden bed with a mixture of needles, sawdust and bark.

blueberry care

Watering blueberries

The plant loves frequent watering, but do not confuse it with abundant soil moisture. Stagnation of moisture for blueberries is dangerous. However, the rains in the spring-summer season will not be enough to fully moisten the beds. After planting, water blueberries every 2-3 days, if the summer turned out to be hot, then you need to increase watering up to 3 times a week. For adult shrubs, 2 times a week is enough. If possible, install blueberries. And do not forget about regular acidification if the soil of your site has a neutral pH.

Blueberry nutrition

Blueberry nutrition consists of several stages. Before starting feeding, study the features of the procedure for blueberries.

• You can make the necessary mineral fertilizer with your own hands, however, there are complex preparations for sale in garden stores that contain not only the minerals necessary for the plant, but also those containing the same soil acidifiers that are so necessary for the shrub. An example of such mixtures is Target or Florovit.
• Fertilization for blueberries is carried out in three stages. The first feeding should take place in the spring, in mid-April. The second one is a month later. And a month later, complete the procedure with the third application of nutrition. If for some reason the schedule has shifted, remember that the application of nitrogen fertilizers to the soil must be completed before July, otherwise the plant will not have time to prepare for the dormant period in winter.
• In autumn, be sure to mulch the soil, this process will not only protect the shrub from moisture loss, but also maintain acidity at the desired level.

blueberry pruning

There are several types of shrubs, all of which are applicable to garden blueberries.

• Formative pruning of blueberries. It is carried out in the spring, not earlier than in the fourth year of planting life. The main task is to form the correct crown so that the sunlight hits all the branches of the blueberry.
• Regulating blueberry pruning. It is held at the end of August, annually, starting from the fourth year of life. Old branches are removed, young shoots are shortened.
• Rejuvenating blueberry pruning. Every 8-10 years, cut the shrub almost entirely near the ground, leaving only 5-6 young and strong shoots. Such pruning gives a new life to the shrub, it is carried out when a deterioration in the quality and quantity of the blueberry crop becomes noticeable.

Wintering blueberries

Blueberries are able to endure frosts down to -25 degrees. And even if the shoots are frozen, there is a chance for the shrub to revive with the onset of heat. However, such loads will negatively affect the health and further fruiting of blueberries, so it is better to prepare for the winter in a quality manner.

1. before the onset of frost, carry out water-charging watering of blueberries;
2. tie the blueberry branches and gently bend to the ground;
3. mulch the bed with coniferous residues, bark and needles;
4. cover blueberries with spruce branches or other available material.

In the spring, boldly open blueberries among the first crops, even return frosts down to -7 degrees will not harm the shrub.

Blueberry diseases

Among the known diseases, blueberries are susceptible to sulfur, anthracnose, phomopsis, but the most dangerous disease is blueberry stem cancer. The first symptoms of the disease are the appearance of red spots on the leaves, which eventually grow and cover all the greenery. The danger of the disease lies in its incurability. Affected plants must be removed from the garden and burned outside the site to prevent the spread of the disease. A successful fight against blueberry diseases is only their prevention.

1. before the leaves appear in the spring and after they fall in the fall, spray the shrub with Bordeaux liquid;
2. spraying with Fundazol is also carried out according to the scheme: 3 times with an interval of a week before flowering, and in the same way after harvesting.

The main pests of blueberries are birds, from which it is necessary to cover the bushes with a special net, and May beetles. Spraying will help to cope with insects, but it is preferable to use a mechanical method: manually collect beetles, larvae, or hang a birdhouse near the house, since beetles are excellent food for birds.

Blueberry harvest

Compliance with all the rules for growing blueberries on the site is a guarantee of the appearance of the first crop on the shrub three years after planting. Get to know the information you need to know when starting to harvest blueberries.

1. Do not rush to pick blueberries, they do not crumble and will hang on a branch for a long time.
2. Collect soft and sugary berries, and save dense and hard ones for the next time. Harvest once a week.
3. Blueberries have a high keeping quality: fresh harvested berries are stored in the refrigerator for up to a month after picking, at room temperature - 1-1.5 weeks.
4. Berries are transportable, transport blueberries in wooden boxes, they will not choke and retain their taste.

Blueberries are not only delicious, but also extremely healthy. Vitamins contained in the fruits, ease of planting and care make the shrub ideal for a gardener, even if his experience in gardening is very little or not at all.

Blueberries are a delicious and very healthy wild berry of the lingonberry family, known and loved by many gardeners, but they began to conquer our gardens relatively recently.

Meanwhile, in America, more than fifty years ago, they bred and with great success grow a hybrid of blueberries - tall garden blueberries. Garden blueberries differ from forest blueberries in the increased dimensional characteristics of both the berries themselves and the harvest from the bush as a whole. At the same time, it was possible to preserve the taste, aroma and all the useful properties of the forest relative.

Modern varieties of American tall garden blueberries can compete in size with blackcurrants and, with proper care, reach a height of 2.5 meters. At the same time, their yield will, of course, be lower than that of currants, but let's still not forget that blueberries are wild berries. It is this circumstance that determines the measures described below for the care and cultivation of garden blueberries.

Planting garden blueberries + VIDEO

And we will start getting acquainted with the technology of growing blueberries, as always from planting.

Choosing a place, time and scheme for planting blueberries

Blueberries do not really like drafts and windy open areas and grow and bear fruit much better in calm areas, hidden from the prevailing winds by buildings or fences, but at the same time well-lit areas.

Since blueberries are originally wild berries, they can grow and bear fruit in partial shade, but the berry will be smaller in size and pick up less sweetness compared to plants in full sunlight.

The best place on the site for planting blueberries will be quiet areas on the south side of buildings or fences.

Like any plant seedlings, blueberries are planted in autumn or early spring before sap flow and buds open in the plant. The advantage is given to autumn planting, in which the seedling has time to adapt and take root in a new place in the fall, and immediately starts growing in the spring. Seedlings with a closed root system (in containers with soil) can be planted throughout the growing season.

It is best to plant blueberries in rows, with a distance between plants of 1-1.5 m in tall varieties and 0.8-1 m in short ones. Leave 2 meters or more between rows. With this planting scheme, the plants receive the highest quality sunlight and, accordingly, grow well and bear fruit.

To illustrate the article here and below in the text, I bring to your attention the videos of Tatyana Kurlovich, a leading specialist of the National Academy of Sciences of Belarus:

blueberry planting technique

Let's watch this wonderful video material by gardener N. Fursov, and then highlight the key points of planting blueberries:

Highlights of planting blueberries:

• For good pollination and fruiting, it is desirable to plant at least 2-3 varieties of blueberries.
• Landing is carried out in pre-prepared landing pits 70-80 cm wide and 40-50 cm deep.
• The pits are filled with the top layer (5-10 cm) of coniferous forest soil mixed with forest litter (pine litter, bark, small branches and sphagnum moss), acidic lowland peat and the fertile soil of your site. On heavy soils, add some river sand to the planting hole to increase the air permeability of the soil.
• The use of organic fertilizers when planting is not desirable, especially for ash.
• The plant grows well and bears fruit only on acidic soils, the optimal acidity of the planting pit soil is pH 4.0. At a higher pH, the optimal conditions for the life of mycorrhiza (a fungus with which the roots of blueberries closely interact throughout the life of the plant) are violated, the plant begins to chlorosis, metabolism and the ability to assimilate the most important element for the growth of the bush - nitrogen.
• nitrogen mineral fertilizers with a high sulfur content (20-30 grams per plant), special purchased soil acidifiers are introduced into the planting pit. In the absence of this, we spill the soil of the planting pit with a solution of table vinegar (50 ml per bucket of water) or a solution of citric or oxalic acid (5 g per bucket of water).
• Attention! When planting seedlings with a closed root system, it is necessary to straighten the roots at the bottom of the planting container and, when planting, give them a direction down and away from the plant.
• The place of growth of the seedling in the container or the soil of the nursery (root collar) when planting is deepened by 5-7 cm.
• Lightly compact the soil at the planting site and water the seedling abundantly.
• Be sure to mulch the soil under the seedling with pine needles or pine sawdust, which, when rotting, will acidify and enrich the soil with nitrogen and other nutrients.

The composition of the soil for growing blueberries:

Blueberry pruning + VIDEO

Blueberries require regular annual pruning to maintain the vegetative green mass of the plant in an optimal state for growth and fruiting. Pruning is carried out, as on fruit trees, in early spring or late autumn before the start of sap flow and bud break on the plant or after natural leaf fall.

the first formative pruning of the plant is carried out in the third or fourth year of the life of the bush, and later, after the bush has entered fruiting, it is carried out annually regulating pruning. When the plant reaches 8-10 years, spend rejuvenating pruning.

Formative pruning is carried out on the plant to form the main skeletal branches of the bush and give the correct and convenient shape of its crown. To do this, choose only the most powerful, evenly and conveniently spaced shoots. All weak, low and densely located shoots are removed.

Regulatory and rejuvenating pruning aims to get evenly and well-placed fruiting elements on the shoots - inflorescences and fruit buds. For this:

• Remove, as with formative pruning, all damaged, weak and inconveniently located shoots and branches.
• Large branches are kept in the bush for 5-6 years, and then removed at ground level, leaving no stumps.
• At the end of summer, pinch the tops of strongly growing shoots.
• Remove also bunches of small branches at the ends of the shoots.

Blueberry garden, cultivation and care +VIDEO

Watering

Blueberry is a very moisture-loving plant and needs frequent watering in the absence of natural precipitation, especially on light soils. The best results are obtained by planting on drip irrigation of the soil. Watering is carried out when the upper layers of the soil dry to a depth of more than 4-5 cm. Young plants and especially blueberry seedlings need 2-3 waterings per week in hot, dry weather. With low soil acidity, purchased soil acidifiers or 50-100 gr. table vinegar in a bucket of water.

Mulching

Mandatory element of care for this plant. It is best to mulch with sawdust of coniferous wood or coniferous litter (needles that have fallen in the forest). These mulching materials not only retain moisture in the soil, but also acidify it when it rots.

Feeding and fertilizing blueberries.

Multicomponent mineral soil fertilizers Florovit and Target for blueberries.

These complex multi-component fertilizers are designed specifically for this crop and contain all the nutrients necessary for blueberries.

A kilogram package is enough for a plantation of more than 30 square meters. meters. We also note that these fertilizers contain soil acidifiers.

Fertilization timing:

• The first application of fertilizer is in mid-April.
• Subsequent with an interval of 4-5 weeks.

It is recommended to complete the application of nitrogen fertilizers before mid-summer, since the wood of the bushes must have time to mature in order to endure frosts. N (nitrogen) promotes plant growth, but if fertilized later than the second decade of June, it will contribute to the continuous growth of the bush, which will contribute to the freezing of individual branches or the entire bush in winter.

Fertilizers are applied both in liquid form (dissolved in irrigation water) and in dry form with embedding into the soil of the near-stem circle by 2-5 cm.

We prepare fertilizer for blueberries on our own:

It is advisable to use sulfate fertilizers, as they slightly acidify the soil. Make a mixture of mineral fertilizers in the following proportion:

• ammonium sulfate - 90 grams.
• superphosphate - 110 grams.
• potassium sulfate - 40 grams. NOT potassium chloride!
• In one tablespoon without a slide, about 8-10 gr. fertilizers, in a matchbox - 16-20 gr.

The resulting mixture is applied to the soil of the near-stem circle of the plant with a dosage:

• Annual bush - 10 gr. (1 tablespoon without top).
• Biennial - 20 gr.
• Three-year-old - 30-40 gr.
• Four-year-old - 40-50 gr.
• From the age of five onwards - 60-80 gr.
• On poor sandy soils, doses can be increased by 50%, and on rich chernozems, respectively, reduced.

Top dressing is applied three times per season: the first in mid-April, the next with an interval of 4-5 weeks.

The most popular garden blueberry varieties

Bluecrop (Bluecrop)

American blueberry cultivar Bluecrop The variety has been known since 1952. The most valuable variety of tall blueberries is the blueberry standard. Bush varieties "Bluecrop" (Bluecrop) reaches a height of 1.6-1.9 meters. Bush free form, shoots directed upwards. The leaves are dark green, medium-sized oblong, pointed shape. Clusters are long. The berries are large, 17-20 millimeters in diameter, slightly flattened, blue, with a strong light blue bloom, elastic, very tasty, collected in small loose brushes. "Bluecrop" (Bluecrop) is a mid-season blueberry variety (berry ripening: late July - August), ripening of berries is not simultaneous, fruiting is very plentiful, regular, yield is 6 - 9 kg per bush. Berries are very tasty, both raw and processed. The fruits are suitable for homemade preparations and for freezing. Berries do not crack, are well stored and transported. The blueberry variety "Bluecrop" (Bluecrop) is disease resistant, not afraid of drought and frost. The bush can withstand frosts down to -34 °C, and flowers down to -7 °C One of the most valuable varieties of blueberries, suitable for both amateur cultivation and for commercial purposes all over the world. The blueberry variety Bluecrop needs heavy pruning.

Patriot

Garden blueberry variety "Patriot" The garden blueberry variety "Patriot" was put into production in 1976. The height of the bush is 1.2–1.8 meters. The bush grows rectilinearly, has an elongated shape. Bushes have an excellent decorative appearance. The fruit ripening period is mid-July. The berries of the Patriot variety are collected in dense clusters, but they have different sizes and a flattened shape. The diameter of the berries is 17 - 19 millimeters. Berries that are not fully ripe have a characteristic red color. Berries varieties "Patriot" are very tasty. They are recommended to be eaten fresh. The high-growing blueberry variety "Patriot" is winter-hardy and can withstand frosts down to -29 °C.

Bluetta (Bluetta)

The blueberry variety Bluett was commercialized in 1967. The height of the bush is 0.9-1.2 meters. The bush is wide, squat. The berries ripen from the first decade of July. Harvest regular - 4.5-9 kilograms per bush. The size of the berry is 12-15 millimeters in diameter, with a wide scar and dense flesh, dark blue in color. Berries of the Blueetta variety are very tasty. The blueberry variety Bluetta is recommended for fresh consumption. Blueberry variety "Bluetta" has high frost resistance and good decorative qualities.

Elizabeth (Elizabeth)

The bush of the garden blueberry variety Elizabeth is sprawling, erect, reaches a height of 1.6 - 1.8 meters. The shoots have a characteristic red color, which indicates a high winter hardiness. The tall blueberry variety Elizabeth is easily propagated by lignified cuttings. Fruiting is good, but a little less than Bluecrop (4-6 kg per bush), stretched in time, which will allow you to feast on beautiful berries for two weeks. The berries of the Elizabeth variety are quite large - 20-22 millimeters in diameter, strong, with a small scar, easily torn off and almost not deformed during long-term transportation. The fruit skin is beautiful, blue. The berries are very sweet and fragrant. In terms of taste, the Elizabeth variety is one of the best varieties. Berries begin to ripen in early August. Fruit clusters are very loose. Blueberry garden "Elizabeth" (Elizabeth) - a valuable late variety, despite the fact that part of the crop may not always have time to ripen. Elizabeth does not grow well in sandy soil, but does very well in soils with a moderate peat content.

Northblue

Variety of low-growing blueberries "Northblue" (Northblue) The bush of low-growing blueberries "Northblue" is powerful, reaches a height of 60-90 centimeters. The berries ripen from the beginning of August. The harvest of the Norhblue variety is good, regular - 1.2-2.5 kilograms per bush. The berries are large - 15-18 millimeters in diameter. Berry color: dark blue. Berries are dense, with a small scar and good taste. The berries keep well. The low-growing blueberry variety "Northblue" is recommended for fresh consumption and for industrial processing. Variety "Northblue" is highly frost-resistant, does not freeze at -35 ° C. Bush variety "Northblue" has a good decorative appearance and can be used in landscape design.

In addition to the varieties listed above, we should mention such varieties of blueberries as: Duke (Duke), Jersey (Jersey), Sunrise (Sunrise) and many others.

A moment of attention!

Gentlemen gardeners, our site is dedicated to cultivation grapes in non-traditional northern regions for growing this crop, such as Belarus, Baltic states, central Russia, Siberia …

If you are interested in growing grapes in these regions or have doubts about the very possibility of growing a sunny berry in your conditions, welcome to the northern viticulture club using the links below ...

Error: Your requested Widget "WordPress Popular Posts" is not in the "Widgets for Shortcodes" sidebar

Growing various crops is not only a hobby for gardeners, but also a great help in providing the family with vitamins and other useful substances all year round. Blueberries, planting and caring for which require some knowledge, are not the leader in popularity. Few people know about its beneficial properties and the ease of caring for shrubs.

Blueberry is a fairly large bush, the height of which ranges between two to two and a half meters. Most often strongly branched. The leaves are 10-12 cm long and over 6 cm wide. Shrubs are quite unpretentious when breeding, however, the variety of varieties should be taken into account and the most optimal one should be planted in a particular area.

What varieties exist:

• "Blucrop" is considered mid-season, it is often called one of the reference and most common varieties. Bushes of medium size - rarely exceed two meters. Characteristic large fruits (from 14 mm) are collected in small brushes. The approximate volume of the annual collection is 6-9 kilograms per plant. A variety of blueberries is quite resistant to frost and drought. By the end of summer, the fruits can already be harvested;

• "Spartan" is a late-ripening variety. Its height is about one and a half to two meters. The fruits are large - 15-17 mm. Characterized by a special aroma and excellent taste. Their ripening ends at the end of August. An important feature is that shrubs hardly tolerate waterlogging of soils. From one bush you can get about 4-7 kilograms of fruits;

• "Blue Ray" is another mid-season variety, the height of which ranges from 1 to almost two meters. The berries are light blue (large) - about 21 mm, the weight of one - an average of 2 grams. The fruits ripen by mid-July. The duration of fruiting is one to two weeks. About 5-8 kg of berries are “removed” from one bush. This variety is one of the most frost-resistant;

• "Duke" - an early variety, bushes grow about two meters in length. The berries are large - up to 20 mm in diameter. Most often, the berry is used for freezing (it is believed that after cooling the taste improves) or consumed immediately after collection. Fruiting begins in July. Harvest from one bush - about 8 kg. The variety tolerates frost well;

• "Patriot" refers to the middle early cultures. The berries are slightly flattened, their size is 15-19 mm. Unripe fruits have a characteristic reddish tint. The bushes are not afraid of frost (temperature below -30 C is not critical for them), they are not susceptible to fungal diseases (for example, stem cancer, root rot). Harvest can be harvested as early as July;

• "Berkeley" refers to late-ripening varieties. The height of the shrub can slightly exceed 2 meters, strong branching is characteristic. Berries of various sizes - 14-19 mm, due to their strength, they easily endure long-term transportation. Ripening occurs in the second half of August. The variety tolerates temperature extremes, as well as excess moisture in the soil. From one shrub you can get from 4 to 7-8 kg of fruits;

• Airlie Blue is considered one of the earliest - by the end of June it is already possible to harvest. Large light blue slightly flattened berries weigh just under 2 grams. The average yield is about 4-7 kg per bush. It is worth noting that the berries stay on the branches for a long time even after full ripening. Long term storage is not recommended.

It should be noted that shrubs can live up to hundreds of years. Blueberries make delicious jam, but most often the berries are mixed with other fruits (for example, blueberries or cranberries). Interestingly, blueberry juice will not leave stains on fabrics after drying.

How to plant blueberries?

Planting features are associated with the fact that the shrub feels good in acidic soil (pH from 3.5, but not more than 5.5), but most crops do not tolerate such acidity, so the area for blueberries will have to be specially prepared.
The roots of the bushes are located close to the surface of the earth, so that the culture can develop normally, the soil should not interfere with the flow of water and air. Ideal soil types to use:

• acid peat plus sand additive;
• land from pine forests;
• sandy loam.

Clay types are completely unsuitable for planting.

It is important to plant bushes in a well-lit place, otherwise the development of the culture will be difficult. But at the same time, due to the fact that the bushes are quite high, it is recommended to provide protection from the wind, otherwise they may die in winter. It is best to build a low hedge or fence.

You should monitor the constant moisture of the soil - water the earth about 2-3 times a day.
The planting process is most often carried out in the spring, so that the plants take root and get stronger long before the onset of cold weather.

The procedure comes down to several steps:

Step 1

Preparation - digging a well or trench with a depth of about half a meter, a width of 1/2 to one and a half meters. Side surfaces can be laid with polyethylene (but not the bottom).

Step 2

Falling asleep of the earth with the necessary acidity. The most optimal solution is high-moor peat (you can still use sphagnum), mixing it with clean sand, sawdust of pine needles and small branches. Do not add manure, as well as other additives rich in alkali.

Important: if the local soil is clayey, you will have to make a high bed, otherwise the accumulated water will damage the bushes.

Step 3

The vessel with the plant must be soaked for half an hour in water so that the roots are saturated with moisture.

Step 4

The plant is taken out of the water and introduced into the prepared place so that the neck of the root enters the soil by 6-10 cm. The hole should be covered with earth and slightly compacted with your hands around the stalk.

Step 5

Water the soil.

If the soil is unsuitable (too clayey), plantings are often arranged on ridges, poured by hand. For each individual shrub, you can make something like a sandbox on a hill, which is convenient to do in small areas.

Video - Blueberry garden: planting and care

How to care for blueberries?

Blueberry is a very unpretentious culture. The most important thing is to provide it with moisture, especially during the periods of bud formation and fruiting - from mid-summer to early autumn.

For irrigation, you should not use plain water, but a solution with some organic acid, for example:

• oxalic (lemon is also suitable) - in the proportion of one small spoon per three liters;
• acetic - 200 milliliters per ten liters.

Experienced owners use electrolyte for batteries, preparing a solution with its use - 10 milliliters per 10 liters of water.

Features of care

For standard top dressing, it is recommended to use mineral or organic fertilizers: sphagnum moss, pine needles.
The shrub bears fruit for about two to three months, the berries hang on the branches for about 10 days. One plant brings 3-6 crops during the summer.

Blueberries most often suffer from the following diseases:

• stem cancers;

• late blight;

• monilial burn;

• and other diseases.

To combat ailments, conventional compounds for shrubs are used. To ensure that the bushes are protected from diseases, they are sprayed in the spring months - at the end of the pruning process.

The average minimum temperature that most varieties of blueberries tolerate is approximately minus 24-24 degrees. If there is not enough snow in winter, the risk of freezing of the roots is high. Late-ripening shrubs are especially often affected by early frosts. They are recommended to be covered with burlap or similar (well breathable) materials.

Preparing for the winter:

1. The branches are bent closer to the surface of the earth, after which they are fixed with ropes or wire;
2. A heater is laid over the bushes (it is not recommended to stretch the film).
It does not hurt to additionally throw spruce branches, and with the advent of snow, add it.
With the departure of frost, shrubs free and cut off the ends of frozen branches.

When should blueberries be pruned?

The pruning process is carried out in the spring months. For the first time this should be done after the bush is 2-4 years old. This is necessary for the correct formation of a strong skeleton.

The procedure is reduced to the removal of branches with buds.
The next time the branches should be cut when the bush reaches 5-6 years. It is necessary to cut off old and diseased branches, as well as growths at the base.

Video - How to prune blueberries?

top dressing

As soon as 2 years have passed after planting, the soil composition should be adjusted.

Table 1. Signs of deficiency in blueberries of various useful elements

The amount of fertilizer applied per shrub (in tablespoons):

• 2-year-old - 1;
• 3-year-old - 2;
• 4-year-old - 4;
• 5-year-old - 8;
• If the bush is more than 5 years old - 16.

Experts advise top dressing in the first spring month - when the buds begin to swell (the juice begins to move).

Important: Zn, Mg and K sulfates should only be applied once a year.

Features of blueberry breeding

You can use seeds, cuttings, and also apply propagation methods by dividing the bush or layering. The latest way is the easiest.

Separate branches are placed on the ground, falling asleep with sawdust near the base. After two or three years, roots may sprout. The branch is cut off from the bush and planted separately. If there is a risk of damage to the seedling by pests, the use of special chemicals is allowed, for example, "Spark - double effect".

Common mistakes when growing garden blueberries

Although blueberries are not considered a capricious plant, breaking a number of rules can greatly damage the shrub.

One of the common mistakes is choosing the “wrong” seedlings when planting. They must be absolutely healthy, which can be determined by the leaves (without spots), if they are not, you need to look at the bark: if there are brownish (or burgundy) spots, the seedling should be set aside.

You can not buy plants with bare roots, they must be in a container (pot) with appropriate soil. Before planting, be sure to soak the root (from 30 minutes to 2-3 hours), otherwise you will have to forget about the harvest.

It is very important to carefully prepare the soil for blueberries: the bush may not tolerate the wrong composition - the presence of ash, manure or bird droppings in it.

If you choose the wrong place for planting, the result can also be disastrous. There should be enough sun and as little wind as possible, from which the bark on the bushes deteriorates, and various infections penetrate the wounds. Also, due to the impact of bad weather, some properties of the berries are lost: for example, they deteriorate much earlier during storage.

It is important to understand that blueberries tolerate a dry period much calmer than excess moisture. Excess water accumulated near the roots deprives them of the necessary amount of air, the bush begins to suffocate and die.

Around the seedlings, it is recommended to mulch the surface with sawdust - a layer a little less than 10 cm thick is enough. This will save you from weeds, help regulate temperature and air-water conditions: the soil will stop overheating and drying out.

Advice: in case there is clay soil in the area, a good solution would be to create a drainage system before planting, and then you can start digging wells.

Storage and use of blueberries

Under normal conditions - a temperature of + 20-25 degrees, the berries will deteriorate in a couple of days. The refrigerator will extend the period for a few more days.

The easiest way to store blueberries for a short time is to wash blueberries, dry them and carefully place them in glass jars - in this form, the crop can be kept for up to a week and a half.

Common methods for preparing blueberries for long-term storage:

1. Freezing - begins with the sorting of fruits. Next - rinsing in running water. Drying - if you freeze wet berries, then their taste will deteriorate significantly, and the skin will be tough. After that, the berries should be placed in a container, but leave a gap between the top layer and the lid - about two centimeters. Be sure to sprinkle blueberries with a little sugar. Now you can close the lid and place the container in the freezer, where the berries can be stored for a very long time;
   2. Soaking in water - the berries are washed, placed in jars and filled with cold boiled water. After that, the blueberries should be boiled for about ten minutes, if small jars (0.5 liters) are used, and if large (liter) jars were taken, then boiling is carried out for about 20 minutes. Banks need to be rolled up and placed on shelves in the cellar or refrigerator upside down;
   3. Sugaring - washed blueberries are driven through a meat grinder, and sugar is added to the resulting slurry - 0.5 kg per 1 kg of berries. Everything is mixed and heated on fire. Banks should also be heated and pasteurized. Transfer the resulting mixture to jars and roll up. Storage - in the refrigerator or other cool place, the period is about a year;
   4. Drying - the easiest way is to use a conventional oven. A clean and dry berry is poured onto a baking sheet in a thin layer. The temperature should be set in the region of 40-50 degrees. Place the baking sheet in the oven, but do not close the door completely. Blueberries are dried for 1.5-2 hours at 50 degrees, and then another hour at 60 degrees. You can store it in tightly closed containers for several months (either in the refrigerator or in cellars).

Some gardeners use blueberries to make homemade wine.

Beneficial features:

• iron, which is part of blueberries, is absorbed by almost 100%, which has a positive effect on human immunity and endurance;
• recommended for people with diabetes, as it can increase the effectiveness of drugs that reduce sugar levels;
• restores metabolic processes;
• helps to break down fats;
• the elements that make up blueberries help strengthen the walls of blood vessels, improve hematopoiesis;
• use in any form has a good effect on the work of the gastrointestinal tract, the nervous system.

The berry is especially useful for people who are fond of dietary nutrition, since its calorie content is low.

Conclusion

Wild berries are very useful and tasty. Blueberries, unlike other crops, are quite easy to grow on almost any plot, and if the process of preparation and planting is carried out according to all simple rules, the owner is guaranteed to get a rich harvest.

They began to breed high-quality blueberries in the USA and Canada from a wild-growing species - Vaccinium corymbosus, or high blueberries. In promotional articles, garden blueberries are often referred to as blueberries or blueberry trees, because they look similar in appearance to the leaves. In English, both blueberries and blueberries are called the same - Blueberry (blue berry), because of this confusion can occur. However, these berries are different.

Table: difference between blueberries and blueberries

There are currently no blueberry cultivars. In our forests, common blueberries and swamp blueberries grow. A favorite place for the growth of these plants is wet places with good lighting. These wild-growing species can also be grown on a personal plot, but in terms of yield they are inferior to varietal blueberries, and their berries, as a rule, are solitary, and not in clusters.

Blueberries and blueberries are very similar, but still have differences both in the structure of the bush and in the taste of the berries.

Conditions for growing garden blueberries

This plant is unpretentious, but for successful growth and obtaining a large yield, it requires certain growing conditions:

Planting blueberry seedlings

Do you want to get good annual harvests? Choose the right place to land on your site.

Choosing a place for planting blueberries

It should be the most sunny place, not blown by the winds. In shading, blueberries will also grow, but you will not wait for large harvests - the berries will be small and sour.

Blueberries bear fruit best in group plantings. Although it does not require pollinating plants, planting 2-3 different varieties side by side will increase your yield. And, of course, in this case, you need to take into account the flowering time of the selected varieties: it should be approximately the same. Late-ripening varieties begin to bloom when early flowering has already ended.

Preparing holes for planting

Site preparation should be taken seriously. This is the most time-consuming process in caring for blueberries. It consists of the following steps:

1. They dig a hole 80 × 80 cm in size and 50 cm deep. On heavy clay soils, the depth of the hole is increased by another 10–15 cm for drainage.
2. Stones and sand are poured at the bottom of the pit (you can use broken brick, large gravel or expanded clay).
3. Then the pit is filled with a mixture of three parts of high-moor peat, one part of forest land and one part of sawdust of coniferous trees.
   

   If there is no forest land, then it can be replaced with pine bark, coniferous litter, or a mixture of them in various proportions.

4. Add a little sand, 40-50 g of sulfur and mix everything well and compact a little.

Sour (horse) peat must be added to the planting pit for blueberries

Distance between bushes

When planting several plants, consider their adult size. Bushes should not obscure each other. Depending on the height of the bush, the distance between them is made different:

Seedling selection

Blueberries grow slowly; they begin to bloom and produce crops from the fourth year after planting. This feature allows you to plant and transplant plants of "respectable" age. Even five- and six-year-old bushes take root well. However, it is still better to opt for 2-3-year-old seedlings with a closed root system.. They are easier to work with for a beginner gardener.

Planting material is best purchased in proven large nurseries. You can also take a cutting from your relatives or neighbors in the area, who have been growing blueberries for several years and get good yields. They will give you not only a cutting, but also a lot of tips on planting and caring for this plant.

When choosing blueberries for planting, preference should be given to 2–3-year-old seedlings with a closed root system.

planting blueberries

The process of planting blueberry seedlings consists of several stages:

Mulching is good for any plant. It retains moisture, prevents the soil from overheating and prevents the growth of weeds. Blueberry roots are located close to the surface, and the drying of the upper layer, as well as overheating in the heat, have a bad effect on the condition of the plant. Mulch solves this problem, it is only necessary that its layer be at least 5-7 cm.

blueberry care

Caring for blueberries is not very difficult.

Proper watering

The main thing is watering. One adult plant requires an average of at least 20 liters of water per week. It is best to break this norm into two times. You need to water in the morning or in the evening, when the sun's rays are still or no longer so scorching. In very hot weather, water more often and more. A sufficient amount of moisture is very important in July and August, when the berries ripen and flower buds are laid - your future harvest. To this is added spraying the bushes with water in the afternoon.

At the same time, it is not necessary to abuse watering. Stagnation of water in the pit for more than two days can lead to rotting of the roots and weakening of the plant.

Blueberries need to be watered in the morning or in the evening when the sun is not very hot.

Ensuring soil acidity

To maintain the acidity of the soil at the required level, plants are sometimes watered with acidified water. It is prepared from the following ingredients:

• table 9% vinegar (100 ml per 10 liters of water);
• citric acid (1-2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water) or electrolyte for acid batteries (20-30 ml per 10 liters of water).

Three to four times per season, such an additive to water will maintain the acidity of the soil at the right level.

Loosening for oxygen access

In addition to watering, loosening the soil is also important. This should be done carefully and at a shallow depth, since blueberry roots are superficial and easy to damage. Loosening reduces the evaporation of moisture and saturates the upper layers of the soil with oxygen. If necessary, peat and mulch are sprinkled under the plants.

top dressing

Blueberries respond well to feeding. Don't neglect it. A minimum of 2 foliar and 1 root top dressing per season is required for the plant. They are held from the beginning of June for a month and a half - until mid-July. On sale there are special complex fertilizers for blueberries. They are easy to use and have a balanced composition. Both root and foliar top dressing are required:

It is best to carry out root dressing in rainy weather so that fertilizers are better absorbed into the ground, but if it is hot and dry, it does not matter. Water the plant, sprinkle fertilizer and water again.

Preparing for winter

For the winter, plants are mulched with an additional layer of peat or sawdust. Young blueberry bushes can be covered with any breathable material (for example, spunbond), especially if winters in your area are not very snowy. Under no circumstances should plastic sheeting be used.

Pruning bushes

In order for the bushes not to be too thick and bear fruit well, it is necessary to cut them correctly. There are several types of pruning, each of which is carried out with specific goals.

Table: Types of blueberry pruning

Blueberry transplant

If it becomes necessary to transplant an adult plant, perform the following procedures:

1. The bush is shortened by half, and weak and thin shoots are removed completely.
2. The cut bush is transplanted to a new place.
3. The next spring, cut off all the flowers that appear.
4. From the third year, only those branches that are well lit by the sun are left on the bushes. This stimulates the growth of new flower shoots.

As practice shows, plants up to 5–6 years of age tolerate transplantation well.

blueberry breeding

You can propagate blueberries:

• cuttings,
• layering,
• seeds.

Each method has its advantages and disadvantages, you need to choose the most convenient for a particular situation.

From cutting to bush

Propagation by cuttings is a convenient, but not a quick way to increase the number of bushes of this plant on the site. The procedure is as follows:

After all these operations, we will get a healthy seedling suitable for planting.

Receiving layering

To obtain a seedling using layering, proceed as follows:

1. For selected annual shoots, the top is slightly shortened and pinned to the ground.
2. Sprinkle layering with sawdust.
3. For better rooting, constantly moisten the ground and, as the layer grows, increase the layer of sawdust.
4. After 2-3 years, the shoots are separated from the bush and transplanted. During this time, the seedling is already quite viable and takes root well in a new place.

Blueberry cuttings are attached to the ground with a metal bracket.

From seed to fruiting plant

Growing blueberries from seeds is a laborious and time consuming process. Blueberries grow slowly, and a full-fledged seedling from a seed will grow in three years, and it will begin to bear fruit in another four years.

This method is often used by breeders, since the chance of a successful genetic mutation when introducing a new species or improving certain qualities of an existing variety is much higher than when working with a plant propagated by cuttings.

It is better to buy a seedling. But if you have time and desire, you can plant blueberries with your own seeds or those bought in a specialized store.

To get your own seeds:

1. Take fully ripe berries, which are kneaded into a pulp.
2. The resulting mass is stirred in water. Good seeds will remain at the bottom, and part of the pulp, berry peel and unripe or empty seeds will float, after which the resulting surface layer is drained.
3. Seeds are slightly dried on the fabric. They can be planted immediately or left for planting in the spring. If the seeds are left until spring, then they are dried to the end.
4. In the spring, the seeds are placed in wet sand or moss and kept in it for 3 months.
5. After that, they are sown on wet peat, without deepening, and covered with a small layer of sand.
6. Moisten from a spray bottle, cover with glass or film and put in a warm place. The seeds will germinate within a month.
7. During this time, greenhouses periodically ventilate and, if necessary, moisten the soil.
8. After the emergence of seedlings, the film is removed and the containers are placed in a warm, well-lit place.
9. When the sprouts give 3-4 true leaves, they are planted in separate containers and transferred to growing in a greenhouse for 2 years.
10. After all these procedures, the plants are planted in a permanent place in open ground.

Diseases and pests of blueberries

Blueberries are quite resistant to diseases and pests, but prevention has never been superfluous. It is carried out twice:

• in spring, before bud break, plants are sprayed with Azofos against fungal diseases;
• before flowering, they are sprayed with Skorom against fungal diseases and rot.

In the fall, after harvesting, the processing is repeated with Skor. Do not leave fallen leaves under the bushes - pests and pathogens can winter in it.

Common diseases

With a decrease in immunity, the plant can get sick.

Table: blueberry diseases and how to deal with them

The best way to keep plantings healthy is prevention. Regularly inspect plants and sanitary pruning. Before bud break and after the leaves fall, spray the bushes with Bordeaux mixture. Do not let weeds grow near the trunk circles.

Pests

Blueberries have few pests. It may appear:

• kidney tick,
• leaflet,
• flower beetle

In such cases, spraying is carried out with any preparation that is used to treat trees. Aphids are carried by ants, so make sure that there are no anthills in your garden. To protect against birds, plants are covered with a fine mesh net.

To protect against birds, blueberry bushes are covered with a fine mesh net.

Selecting the right blueberry variety

When choosing a variety for planting, be sure to consider the climatic features of your region. The ripening period of berries affects the possibility of obtaining a crop. Early varieties begin to sing already at the end of June, mid-season - from mid-July, late - from the second half of August. For example, in the Moscow region, late varieties do not always have time to reach the desired ripeness. And in the Kuban or in the Crimea, heat can stay until late autumn, which allows late-ripening varieties to bring a good harvest.

The height of the bush is important in ensuring a trouble-free wintering of blueberries. If winters are harsh and snowy in your region, then it will be easier for a stunted plant to overwinter without freezing in a snowdrift than for a taller one.

Table: overview of popular blueberry varieties

Features of growing blueberries in different regions of Russia

Growing blueberries in Siberia, you should give preference to varieties bred in the Central Siberian Botanical Garden. They are better adapted to local conditions and withstand temperatures as low as -42°C. Suitable varieties:

• taiga beauty,
• marvelous,
• Yurkovskaya.

For Central Russia and the Leningrad Region, early and mid-ripening varieties are suitable. Early cooling is not uncommon in this region, and late-ripening varieties do not always have time to fully mature. The best varieties:

• bluecrop,
• Patriot,
• Taiga beauty.

In Belarus, even late varieties can be grown. For example, the Berkeley variety begins to bear fruit from the last decade of August. In addition, the following varieties have become widespread and have proven themselves well:

• Bonus
• Blue Ray,
• bluegold,
• Northblue.

In the Krasnodar Territory and the Rostov Region, it is better to give preference to tall plants. The following varieties grow and bear fruit well:

• bluecrop,
• Patriot.

Low-growing varieties of blueberries (up to 1.2 m) are popular in the northern regions of Ukraine. Dense plantings of low-growing blueberries are successfully used in landscape design of plots. Of these varieties can be noted:

• Notreblue (90 cm);
• Notrecountry, Chippewa (0.8–1 m);
• Bluegold (1.2 m);
• Notland.

All varieties are frost-resistant and in terms of yield are not inferior to tall counterparts.

Low-growing varieties of blueberries (for example, Chippeva) are popular in Ukraine

Despite the time-consuming process of planting, further care for blueberries is quite simple.