How to increase the yield of tomatoes in the greenhouse. Secrets of a good tomato harvest
To grow a rich crop of tomatoes, summer residents resort to various time-tested agricultural practices, which will be discussed in the article. 15 tips from experienced gardeners they will tell you how to increase the fruiting of tomatoes, avoiding late blight and other diseases.
It is undesirable to bring fresh manure and bird droppings into the soil on the beds and greenhouses, even from autumn, only humus and matured compost.
From mineral fertilizers, phosphates and potash compounds are plowed under tomatoes from autumn, and nitrogen products are added in spring (before planting).
Nitrogen fertilizing is contraindicated for tomato bushes during the growing season with fresh slurry and mullein.
The fruiting of tomatoes is negatively affected by an overdose of nitrogen in the soil. Even at the beginning of the growing season, nitrogen fertilizing should not be carried away. Fattening plants actively grow leaves and young shoots to the detriment of fruit formation.
After planting seedlings on permanent place it is advisable to skip soil moistening activities, especially for plants transferred to greenhouses in early dates(March-early April). The water added is enough to root the seedlings. A small moisture deficit contributes to the development of an extensive root system of plants, which is in search of valuable moisture in the deep layers of the soil.
The first watering is carried out when the soil dries up, especially during the period of lack of precipitation (in greenhouses - 14-20 days after planting).
Top dressing with nitrogen (solution ammonium nitrate, mullein infusion, fermented nettle infusion, etc.) are carried out only if there are signs of nitrogen deficiency (stretching of stems, stunting, fading of the aerial parts).
Removing 2-3 lower powerful leaves is stress for the bush, which causes the plant to activate fruiting processes.
On lashes with shoots, the tops must be pinched, otherwise the new flower brushes will pull on themselves most nutritious juices of the bush.
Top dressing with potassium of a tomato plantation is performed during the formation of 3-4 brushes, when the fruits are poured. As a source of this element, a solution of potassium magnesia, potassium salt, potassium nitrate or ash infusion is used.
For creating additional protection bushes and the introduction of nutrients at the beginning and height of fruiting, the aerial part of the bushes is treated with iodine infusion (5-10 drops of pharmacy iodine tincture per 10 l) or ash decoction (2 cups of sifted ashes pour a bucket of boiling water, leave for a day, filter and use through a spray bottle) .
In June, the procedure for the formation of a bush is necessarily carried out. All stepchildren, additional shoots growing from the root, and initial sheet plates, location below the first flowering brush.
At the same time, bushes must be tied to supports if this event has not been carried out before.
To avoid, which usually rages in the second half of the growing season (August-September), it is advisable to treat the plants from the moment the seedlings are planted with Fitosporin solution or infusion of garlic at intervals of 10-14 days from the moment the seedlings are planted on the beds or in greenhouses.
Every gardener who grows tomatoes in a greenhouse or on the street sooner or later sets out to increase their yield. Still, a lot of effort and money is invested in this culture, and we want the appropriate return. The most inquisitive minds experiment, try, invent new ways of planting, watering, feeding, and some experiments are successful. As a result, there is a unique system of growing tomatoes that works.
We offer you one of these proven ways to increase the yield of tomatoes, invented by a gardener from the Nizhny Novgorod region, Viktor Nikolaevich Shadrin. Even in a cool, damp summer, a tomato harvest is guaranteed!
First rule bountiful harvest – optimal location landing. Tomatoes are extremely light and thermophilic, so it is best to plant them where there is a lot of sun during the day.
The second rule is air circulation. If you are growing tomatoes in a greenhouse, always keep the roof vents open (or the door if there are no vents). In summer, close the greenhouse only in damp and cool (below +12C) weather.
The third rule is the choice of variety. If summers in your area are often rainy or the weather changes dramatically from warm to cold, then the first criterion when choosing a tomato variety should be resistance to fungal diseases. Otherwise, your companions will eat your tomatoes before you.
These three basic rules are not a mystery behind seven seals. They are widely known, it can be said that the “school” of growing tomatoes begins with them. But to ensure record harvest, they are not enough. The main secret success in unusual way planting and watering tomatoes.
Planting tomatoes in a square-nest way
Before planting seedlings, the bed is marked into squares with a side of fifty centimeters. The distance between the squares should also be about half a meter. The bushes are planted in the corners of the square, and in the middle they dig a hole, which will serve both for watering and for feeding. The hole can be dug immediately after planting seedlings or one to two weeks after. In the diagram, this landing method looks like this:
The photo shows mature tomato bushes planted around a watering hole.
Watering hole for tomatoes
The watering hole will serve as a source of moisture, heat and nutrients immediately for four bushes. But at the same time, it should not be too deep. Its diameter is about forty centimeters, and the depth at its deepest point is twenty centimeters. However, when watering, twenty liters of water will fit in it, five for each plant.
Pour into the bottom of the pit liter jar ash, which serves as a source of phosphorus, potassium and other macro- and microelements. In the absence of ash they help out mineral fertilizers: add a handful of superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Then the pit is filled with cut grass, not just to the top, but even “with a slide”. Gradually, the grass in the hole will rot and settle, releasing carbon dioxide, which plants love, and providing nourishment to the roots.
What do we have as a result? Pour twenty liters of water into each hole at a time. This is enough for four plants. At the same time, water does not stand on the surface, it rushes to the roots, and the grass in the pit prevents its rapid evaporation. Moisture remains in the soil, the roots can always use it if necessary.
Along with watering, fertilizing also occurs: organic fertilizer is obtained from grass, and additional potash, phosphorus fertilizers and trace elements (for example, calcium or magnesium) can be added to irrigation water. In addition, when the grass decomposes in the watering pit, heat is released, which warms the roots and helps plants survive temperature changes, cold snap or cold without stress. lingering rain. Because under adverse weather conditions, the most important thing is to insulate the roots.
Prevention of late blight
After you have done everything for effective watering, provided the plants with warmth and nutrients, it's time to think about protection against diseases. Whatever one may say, but fungal diseases led by late blight - tomato enemy number one.
In this method of growing tomatoes, a special place is given to the prevention of late blight. It should be started immediately, without waiting for the first symptoms of the disease, a week after planting the seedlings. There are two ways here:
First. At first (before the fruits appear), spray the tops once a week with modern fungicides, which we talked about. These drugs create a kind protective film on the leaves, which does not allow spores of pathogenic fungi to gain a foothold and develop.
After the appearance of fruits, continue weekly spraying, but now use only folk remedies, and it is best to alternate different ones. First, treat with iodine (10 drops per 10 liters of water), then potassium permanganate (red wine-colored solution), then soda (2 tablespoons of soda per 10 liters of water). Moreover, such solutions should not only be sprayed, but also watered.
Second. If you are categorically against industrial preparations, then it is best to spray tomatoes on healthy leaves from the very beginning. early age with the following composition: for 10 liters of water, 1 liter of whey and 25 drops of iodine. Spray weekly, and from time to time use this tool for watering.
Let's summarize. What's the secret good harvest tomatoes? Disease-resistant varieties, sunny place without stagnant air, square-nest planting method, watering pit, preventive spraying on healthy leaves from the very beginning of the season.
Try this system on your site as an experiment to start with. And what if this is exactly what is best suited to your garden?
We wish you success and great harvests!
With the onset of summer, we look forward to harvesting tomatoes, monitor their condition: flowering and watering. In general, it is important for every gardener that every leaf of this crop is healthy throughout the season. Every year, gardeners hope that this year's tomatoes will be tastier than last. Therefore, in this article, we decided to tell such gardeners how to increase the yield of tomatoes in the open field. We will also talk about what secrets can increase the yield of this crop.
RULE 1: SHOULD YOU SPRAY
In order for your tomatoes to give a lot of fruits, it is necessary to process the bushes during the flowering of the second and third flower brushes not large quantity boric acid. This contributes to the early fruit set and plant growth. Also, "boron" contributes to the emergence of new sprouts and the fruits will become much sweeter. If use this rule, then the yield of picking tomatoes will increase up to 20%. Recipe for the solution: For 1-2 sprayings, you will need to dissolve 10 g of boric acid powder in 10 liters of water.
RULE 2: "TOMATO SHAKE"
This article will let you know how to increase the yield of tomatoes in the open field. And here it is worth giving the most effective advice. In order for tomatoes to grow better, nature itself helps you: the wind and various insects are the first helpers in pollination. But what to do if you planted tomatoes in a greenhouse, and not in open ground? After all, there is no wind in the greenhouse, and insects rarely fly in. There is an exit! Experienced gardeners It is advised to arrange a small "shake". Once every few days, you need to shake the flower brushes, and then use rule number 1 and spray the plants. It remains only to water the beds and after about a couple of hours to ventilate the greenhouse.
RULE 3: INVENTORY EARTH LEARNING
If you want to increase the yield of tomatoes that are planted in a greenhouse, then you need to place the beds "in width" - from east to west. This will allow the plants to get the right sun "baths". Thanks to this secret, your tomatoes will receive more morning sunlight and not be shaded by neighboring beds in the afternoon.
RULE 4: "STEEL" ROOTS
All summer residents know that for a plant to produce many large fruits, it needs a strong foundation, i.e. roots. But few people know that root system tomato bush can be improved.
Hilling
Of course, there are tricks here too. Plants need to be hilled only at the time of root growth, since the roots grow in tomatoes in periods. At the beginning of the germination of the bush, the root begins to grow. In order for the main “green” part of the tomato to start growing, the root stops growing and gives way to the stem. Then the roots continue their growth until the moment of flowering and the formation of fruits. As soon as this begins, the roots stop growing again.
An experienced summer resident will always notice exactly when it is necessary to spud. The plants themselves will tell him about it. To begin with hilling, it is necessary that small pimples appear on the bottom of the stem. Hilling is only necessary if the ground is wet. The time of the second hilling comes when the stem changes color: from green to bluish. If you follow these rules, then soon the root system of your bushes will help the plant produce a big harvest.
Mulching
Avid gardeners have long known the benefits of mulching. After all, soil is preserved under a layer of mulch, weeds do not grow and there is a sufficient amount of moisture. Proper mulching will bring a lot of benefits and will help increase yields by as much as 30%. What is the best way to mulch tomatoes? Compost, straw, hay, newsprint, and fallen leaves are excellent mulches for tomatoes. For each plant, the most important thing is to choose the right mulch for it.
RULE 5: GOOD SOIL
In order to increase the yield of tomatoes folk methods you need to know how to do it right. And if you do not know how to do it, then you should read our publication to the end.
So, a good summer resident knows that tomatoes will grow well on their tops. This must be taken care of in advance. With the onset of autumn and the preparation of the land for winter, it is necessary to collect all the old tops from tomatoes, chop and add to the soil where your future tomatoes will be. The most daring summer residents tell the secret that if you want to increase the yield by 50%, then when planting seedlings under the root system, you need to put one small fresh fish.
RULE 6: POSCHING
Few people know what it is? So pinching is the removal of unnecessary shoots. In order for the growth forces of the plant not to go away just like that, but to benefit the crop, it is necessary to cut off the excess greens. This will allow the nutrients not to work for the future. But here, too, there are secrets. So that the stepchildren do not appear again, it is necessary to remove them incompletely, leave a process to the stem about 1 cm in size. This process is carried out on the beds open ground once a season, but some do it and several (if new stepchildren appear).
RULE 7: PUTTING THE LEAF
In order for the leaves to give their strength to flowers and fruits, it is necessary to cut the foliage during the fruiting period. And also cut off the lower leaves. Usually, these leaves, in contact with the ground, can cause infection. Regular gardeners suggest cutting 1-3 of the lowest leaves every week until the first flowering. Foliage pruning is recommended to start from mid-June. Cutting off the foliage will help the plant breathe better and take the load off the stem. The most important rule for pruning foliage is that pruning must be done until fruits have formed in the brush, all leaves should be “in place” on top. In order for the trace from cutting to “heal” before getting an infection, the removal of leaves must be done in the morning in dry, warm weather.
RULE 8: ADDITIONAL FERTILIZERS
To get an early harvest, tomatoes need not only root top dressing. The most common spraying of the green mass of the plant will give the tomatoes more strength and protect against unexpected infections. Most auspicious time for foliar feeding, do it in the evenings in calm weather. Feeding Recipe:
- urea (1 tsp per 10 liters of water);
- potassium nitrate or potassium monophosphate (1 tsp per 10 liters of water);
- calcium nitrate (1 tsp per 10 liters of water);
- 1 l. serum and 20 drops of iodine per 10 liters. water.
Such simple manipulations will allow you to increase the yield and taste of tomatoes, since such fertilizers bring many nutrients to future fruits.
RULE 9: "FOOD" FOR FRUIT
Many novice gardeners start feeding only when the bush with tomatoes begins to bear fruit. But it's not right! Top dressing and additional nutrition for tomatoes is needed only during the period of growth of the plant itself. During the fruiting period, we can offer the following:
Recipe 1: Ash
To give the tomatoes more sweetness, you can add ash to the soil. It is necessary to scatter it under the bushes with the calculation of 3-4 tablespoons per 1 sq.m.
Recipe 2: nutritious "drink"
Pour 2 liter cans of ash with 5 liters of boiling water, after cooling, bring the volume to 10 liters + 10 g of boric acid powder + 10 ml of iodine (bottle). It is recommended to insist the solution for 1 day. The resulting infusion is diluted 10 times. Feeding rate - 1 liter for each bush.
Recipe 3: Yeast
100 g of live yeast and half a glass of sugar must be placed in a three-liter jar. Then add warm water and insist for fermentation. Shake occasionally during the fermentation process. Such a "cocktail" must be used as follows: for 10 liters. water - 1 glass of "mash", but not more than 1 liter under one bush.
Finally
Good luck and more harvest!
experienced vegetable grower
Growing tomatoes on your site, you always want to get a high yield of fruits High Quality. In practice, it does not always work out as we would like, especially for inexperienced gardeners. It seems that care is the same for all tomatoes, but plants behave differently. And having “tormented” one or two seasons, we complain that again they didn’t guess with the varieties. Often the reason for failures is precisely the fact that all varieties and hybrids are “combed” in agricultural technology and shaping with the same brush.
Any variety or hybrid initially has a tendency to one or another type of development, so it is necessary to correct the development of plants in time, starting from the stage of growing seedlings. Tomatoes according to the type of growth and development can be divided into two groups - with a vegetative and generative type of development. This division is rather conditional than unambiguous, since the type of plant development can be controlled and, if necessary, shifted in one direction or another.
When growing several varieties and hybrids at the same time, it is necessary to find an “approach” to each individually. And maintain this "optimal balance" throughout the season. This is the only way to get high yields of fruits good quality and realize all the best that is inherent in this variety or hybrid. It can be done different ways, depending on the specific situation.
Tomatoes with overly vegetative development. In appearance, such a plant can be called "fattening". It has a powerful thick stem with long dark green leaves. The crown often has curled leaves that do not straighten out with age. Such plants are ahead of the rest in growth. Stepsons are highly developed. The inflorescence is longer than usual, often ends with a leaf or shoot at the end, it may even be branched, with a large number of flowers. But on one inflorescence, 1-2 flowers bloom at the same time, the fruit that sets up slowly pours, has an unequal size and many underdeveloped fruits, especially at the ends of the brushes. The flowers are light yellow in color, several brushes can bloom at the same time. The tissues of the stems are “not ripened”, tender, and such plants are often affected by diseases and pests. The upper inflorescence is located far from the crown, more than 15 cm. The inflorescences depart from the shoot at an acute angle. In such plants, "all forces" are thrown into the development of roots and green mass, so the yield is extremely low.
Tomatoes with a vegetative type of development
Tomatoes with excessively generative development. Such plants, on the contrary, can be relatively tall, but with a compact leaf apparatus. In the future, with an increasing fruit load, the plant greatly slows down or completely stops vegetative development. The leaves are short, dark green, the top of the plant is thin (thinner than 1 cm in indeterminate tomatoes), the brush is simple, short, with several bright yellow flowers blooming simultaneously. The fruits in the brush are of the same size and are tied well. The upper brush is located almost at the very top of the plant, less than 15 cm from it. Inflorescences do not depart from the shoot at an acute angle, strongly bent down. The flowers in the inflorescence are smaller than usual, although the racemes continue to bloom and set fruits. One inflorescence blooms on the plant at a time. Stepchildren are weak or completely stop their development. In such plants, "all forces" are thrown into the development of fruits, but to the detriment of the development of the leaf apparatus and the root system, which will also affect the overall yield.
Tomatoes with a generative type of development
Both of these extremes are a guarantee of a low yield, so one or another type of plant development should not be allowed to predominate. To be more precise, it is important to be able to correctly adjust agricultural technology and redirect the development of the plant in one direction or another in a timely manner.
Initially, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the variety or hybrid itself. Leading seed producers always indicate on the package a summary of the main characteristics or any individual characteristics this variety or hybrid. But this is only preliminary, the so-called "starting" information.
In practice, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of a particular area, with its weather conditions. And this is not easy, because every year the weather is not the same and the same variety (hybrid) can behave differently. For example, in a cool rainy summer determinant tomatoes can behave like semi-determinants.
On the summer cottages greenhouses, as a rule, are not heated and are not equipped additional equipment, which would support optimal conditions for plants. Therefore, in order not to be left without a crop, it is advisable to grow several varieties and hybrids with different characteristics at the same time. For an early harvest, varieties (hybrids) are important that are able to set fruits well in unstable May weather. In the midst of summer season varieties (hybrids) that tolerate heat well will help out.
At the beginning of the growing season (seedling stage), it is important to get plants by the time of planting in a permanent place with a well-developed leaf apparatus and root system.
For low country greenhouses, with a ridge height of 2.0-2.5 m, it is better for lovers of tall tomatoes to select varieties (hybrids) with shortened internodes and form them into two stems. When the plants reach the trellis wire, each shoot will have an average of 3 brushes. Additional shoots should be released even in the seedling period under the first brush.
As a rule, tall large-fruited tomatoes are prone to the manifestation of a vegetative type of growth. It is advisable to plant seedlings of varieties (hybrids) with a vegetative type of growth in a greenhouse with the first and second brushes already blooming. Otherwise, it will be very difficult to exclude fattening of plants.
A plant loaded with fruits
All agrotechnical measures to regulate the development of plants in one direction or another should be carried out only when the plants receive a balanced mineral nutrition. It is also worth monitoring the loading of plants with fruits and adjusting it in time, based on the created weather and characteristics of the variety or hybrid itself. Limit nitrogen until the formation of fruits on the first brush, especially in varieties (hybrids) with a vegetative type of development. Further, throughout the entire growing season, apply a sufficient amount of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. During the period of flowering and fruit set, the tomato experiences an increased need for phosphate fertilizers, and during the growth of fruits - in nitrogen and potassium.
A week before planting in the ground, it is better to stop feeding the seedlings. After landing in the greenhouse, the first top dressing should be carried out after 12-14 days. With an excessively vegetative type of development, you can give a sheet outside root dressing extract from superphosphate and root dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. With an excessively generative type of development, it is good to give 1-2 top dressings with a solution of fermented weeds without the addition of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. In the case when the plants are loaded with fruits and the weather is cool, this can aggravate the situation, as it will delay the ripening of the fruits.
How to initiate the development of tomatoes towards vegetative or generative types of development
There is a whole set of agricultural techniques that allows you to shift the development of plants in one direction or another, depending on the situations that arise. This helps to maintain optimal plant development throughout the growing period, as well as obtaining high yields and fruits of good quality.
Unlike industrial greenhouses, where a certain variety (hybrid) is grown in each section, amateur vegetable growers grow several varieties (hybrids) at the same time, and often several crops in one greenhouse. Therefore, I conditionally divided agricultural practices into two groups. The first group included techniques, the use of which has direct impact for all plants in the greenhouse. The second group included techniques, the use of which on the selected plants does not have a direct effect on the rest of the plants in the greenhouse.
Regulation of the type of development when growing in a greenhouse one variety (hybrid) or several with the same agricultural technology and behavior
a) With the help of air temperature
The slow rise in temperature after sunrise stimulates vegetative development. Therefore, it is very important in warm sunny weather to open the transoms as early as possible in order to smooth out the sharp rise in temperature in the greenhouse as much as possible.
When weather sets in with cool nighttime temperatures, early closing of the transoms will retain the heat accumulated during the day, which will ensure a smooth transition to nighttime temperatures and will support vegetative development.
A sharp decrease in temperature in the evening leads to increased fruit growth due to the outflow of nutrients from cold leaves to warm fruits. It is advisable to use this technique on tomatoes before the flowering of the fourth brush, so that there is no fruit overload in the future. Since in some hybrids not only the mass of fruits increases, but also the period of their ripening is delayed.
Optimum night temperature for pouring fruit is +15-+16°C. Temperature + 17 + 18 ° C stimulates the ripening of fruits on plants.
The crop on the plant will begin to ripen when a certain amount is reached. average daily temperatures air for a given variety (hybrid) in the period from the moment of formation of ovaries to the full formation of fruits on the first brush.
b) With the help of air humidity
The less moisture the plants evaporate, the better the shoots and leaves grow. But here it must be remembered that low humidity of less than 65%, as well as high humidity, adversely affects the quality of pollination of flowers. Humidity above 80% is dangerous for the development of fungal diseases.
c) By changing the concentration carbon dioxide in the air
You can increase the concentration of CO2 in the greenhouse air by placing containers with fermenting manure or weeds there. This contributes to a better fruit setting, an increase in their number in inflorescences. The average weight of fruits also increases and, accordingly, the fruit load on plants. An increase in CO2 concentration initiates the processes of generative development.
d) By whitening the roof
In the hot months, to avoid overheating, you can whitewash the roof of the greenhouse or pull on protective screens. However, this will lead to reduced lighting and may affect yields and enhance vegetative plant growth.
Regulation of the type of development when growing in one greenhouse different cultures or several varieties (hybrids) of tomato with different agricultural practices and behavior
a) Using the number of leaves on plants
generative type tomato
while maintaining intensive growth
The removal of leaves on plants stimulates the processes of generative development. But here you need to know the measure and not remove the leaves without great need. If possible, do not remove the whole sheet, it is enough to remove only part. For example, when planting tomato seedlings with drooping foliage, the lower leaves that lay on the ground can be cut with a pruner to the required size. This will create less stress on the plant than removing multiple leaves at once.
With the beginning of the flowering of the fifth brush in tall tomatoes, you can begin to remove the lower leaves 1-2 per week. But not higher than the level of the fruiting lower brush.
With strong vegetative growth, you can remove a few lower leaves, 3-5 pieces at once, but these are extreme measures. First of all, it is necessary to remove castings that are poorly lit, which are turned inside the bush or aisle. You can also remove a small leaf from the top of the plant.
In greenhouses with a trellis height of 2.0-2.5 m in hot months on plants of tall tomatoes (when forming in one shoot), the number of leaves should be at least 24-26 pieces. In low greenhouses, after limiting the growth of shoots, indeterminate tomatoes (when forming in 2 stems), at least 12-14 leaves should remain on each shoot during fruiting.
In varieties (hybrids) with a generative type of development in hot months, especially in dry weather, it is not advisable to remove the leaves. On the contrary, you can increase the number of leaves on the plant by leaving an additional shoot (without an inflorescence) with a pinch of 1-2 leaves.
To stimulate the generative type of development in tall tomatoes, you can release an additional shoot (stepson) between 3 and 5 brushes in mid-June, leaving one inflorescence on it and 2-3 leaves after it.
b) By rationing the number of ovaries on plants
With a generative type of development, it is better to normalize the amount of ovary in the hands before blooming flowers, which should be removed. If the plant has weak growth and the inflorescences are also weak, then you can remove the weak inflorescence without waiting for the flowers to bloom. This will improve the growth of leaves and root systems and shoots, and will also contribute to the development of stronger inflorescences in the future.
Until the ripening of the first fruits has begun, the plant experiences a constant increase in load. The beginning of flowering on the shoot of the seventh brush should coincide with the beginning of fruit ripening.
In general, about 28-30 fruits should be on a tomato plant with fruits of average weight at the same time. Therefore, if ripening is delayed, then it is better to remove several large fruits for ripening and thereby unload the plant.
Tomatoes with a generative type of development, brushes one above the other
With a vegetative type of development, the rationing of fruits in the brush is best done after the flowers open (or even the formation of small ovaries up to 1 cm in size) intended for removal. To increase the fruit load, you can leave more fruits on the hands.
c) With the help of a garter of plants and support for pouring brushes
When tying plants and twisting the tops of tomatoes in a greenhouse, it is advisable to wrap the twine around the plant, and not vice versa. With the next turn, the twine should always pass over the next brush, and not under it. A full coil of twine should fall on 1.5-2.0 internodes, not more often. You can attach plants to twine with special clips. The constant twisting of the tops around the twine in generative-type tomatoes causes an even greater shift in this direction of development.
In varieties (hybrids) prone to wrinkling of the hands, it is necessary to use brush holders or tie the brushes with twine. At the same time, it is impossible to press the brushes to the stem, but to preserve their natural angle of deviation from the stem for growth and development. In brushes with a broken axis, the supply of substances is disturbed, the fruits pour worse or stop growing altogether.
d) By changing soil moisture
A decrease in soil moisture levels inhibits vegetative development and initiates the growth of the root system. Such an event is best done by experienced vegetable growers. There is a risk that drying will worsen fruit set, since the critical moisture limits are very close. Drying the soil by 8-10% stimulates generative development, and by 15% already leads to a moisture deficit.
Frequent watering in small doses, on the contrary, allows you to maintain a more stable soil moisture, which stimulates the growth of shoots.
Tomato is a southern culture that requires a lot of heat and light for growth. Our summer is short, and it is rarely hot. And tomatoes simply do not have time to ripen, while losing up to 50% of the crop. But if you do not let things take their course and use a number of simple tricks, then the harvest can be harvested earlier than usual, and even more than usual.
Candidate of Agricultural Sciences Anna Gordeeva is absolutely sure of this.
While the tomatoes are blooming, do not forget to feed them from time to time: for 10 liters of water - 1 g of boric acid, 2-3 crystals of sodium humate and potassium permanganate. Thoroughly spray the leaves and, most importantly, the flower brushes with this solution.
After the ovary, tomatoes grow for 30 days, and then ripen for another 20 days. A great way to speed up the process is to cut off the bottom leaves. Once every three days, remove one leaf from the bush. It also helps tomatoes turn red faster. water solution iodine: 30 - 40 drops of iodine per 10 liters of water.
It has been noticed that on depleted soil with a lack of nutrition and moisture, tomatoes ripen faster. Therefore, by the time of active fruiting, stop feeding and watering. Tomatoes caught on a meager ration ripen faster than those that grow on fertile soil.
Since tomatoes are a vine, they have the ability to branch strongly: from each bud located in the leaf axil on the main stem, a side shoot grows - a stepson. If the stepchildren are not removed, then many shoots will form on the plant and each will have flower brushes. The more of them, the slower the fruits form and ripen. Pasynkovanie will not only accelerate the ripening of vegetables, but also significantly increase the yield, especially in the first harvest. Be sure to stepson tomatoes in areas with short summer, when thickened plantings or when growing late-ripening varieties.
The special value of undersized early maturing varieties in that the fruits on them have time to ripen over the summer and without pinching before the onset of autumn cold weather. Tall varieties are formed in 2, and in years with warm summers and in 3 stems.
Helps accelerate the ripening of tomatoes and pinching the tops. Pinching is the removal of a growth point from fruit-bearing shoots. It is carried out to limit the growth of the plant. Pinching (depending on the variety and weather) is carried out over the second, third and fourth brushes. It is especially important for tall, later-ripening varieties. Simultaneously with pinching after August 10, all flower brushes are removed, on which the fruits still do not have time to form.
Sometimes the flowers fall off from the first brushes. It happens that the ovaries fall off. There may be several reasons. First, the ovary did not fertilize. Secondly, the plant lacks moisture and nutrition. In such a situation, it would be useful foliar top dressing boric acid(1 g per 1 liter of water). It is necessary to spray in dry weather in the morning or in the evening, and if it rains, then repeat the treatment.
To accelerate the ripening of tomatoes, growth stimulants are also used. They prevent flower drop, increase yields, and produce seedless fruits that are tastier than regular ones.
As soon as you notice ugly ovaries-fruits on the bush, immediately remove them, do not wait until they grow huge. By delaying, you will only slow down the development of other fruits.
Significantly accelerates the ripening of already formed fruits and their turning towards the sun. This approach is very important for undersized varieties. Dry and yellow leaves you need to remove it, and substitute wooden spacers - slingshots - under the brushes with fruits, or lay the brushes on the stem so that the vegetables are well lit by the sun and do not lie on the ground.
Think you all know what if to green tomatoes that ripen at home, put a few red fruits, then the unripe ones will begin to turn brown much faster. The method is based on the fact that a mature fruit releases ethylene gas, which in plants is responsible for the aging of the body. It is aging that tomatoes turn red. It turns out that this technique is also effective for tomatoes growing on a bush. A plastic bag, inside which put one small ripe tomato directly on the brush, put it on a bush and tie it. Make a small slit at the bottom of the bag so that the accumulated moisture drains. In 80% of cases, green tomatoes will turn brown in two or three days. In such "clothing" the fruits can continue to grow and ripen even after the first autumn frosts.
It has long been noticed that fruits with some mechanical damage ripen faster. But after all, “wounds” can be inflicted on purpose. If the fruit is specially pierced in several places with a clean wooden stick, then he will be in time much faster than his healthy neighbors.
It also accelerates the ripening of tomatoes and a through longitudinal section of the stem. It is made 5-6 cm long at a height of 12 cm from the soil. A sliver (0.5 cm thick, 2 cm wide) is inserted into the cut and rotated so that the walls of the stem are pushed apart with the wide side. Nutrition and moisture will now be limited, which will slow down the growth of the plant and accelerate the ripening of the fruit.
It has been experimentally proven that it reduces the time of maturation and ringing of plants by almost 10 days. thin copper wire at a height of 2.5–3 cm from the soil surface, make a tight ring, tightening it around the stem. But be careful not to cut the trunk completely. With such an operation, the stock of photosynthesis products accumulated by the leaves will almost completely go to the fruits, because the path to the roots is blocked. Due to this, the harvest will ripen faster. Yes, and the quality of the vegetables themselves is increasing: due to the reduced influx of water, more carbohydrates and dry matter accumulate. Here the fruits become sweeter.
Some experts suggest giving green tomatoes injections of ethanol or simply vodka. This does not affect the taste or the content of vitamins, but such fruits ripen really faster. This method was first tested at St. Petersburg University food technology. In tomatoes that have reached normal sizes for their variety, 0.5 ml of ordinary forty-degree water was introduced. After 12 days, most of the processed tomatoes were already starting to turn brown ...
What to do when you find the first signs of late blight? Try spraying plantings saline solution. This should save the fruits by speeding up their ripening. For 1 liter of water - 100 g of ordinary table salt. From such a procedure, all the leaves will turn yellow, the growth of the bushes will stop and all the power of the plants will be directed to the ripening of already formed fruits. A thin film of salt deposited on the fruits will protect the vegetables from damage.
If by the time of a cold snap in early autumn there are still a lot of tomatoes on the bushes, then they can be ripened without removing them, right on the plant. To do this, pull them out of the ground and hang them upside down on the veranda or in the shed. It is not necessary to hang the plants tightly to each other - there must be air access to the fruits.
You can't be late with harvesting tomatoes. They need to be removed from the bushes while the temperature at night is above plus 5-8 degrees. Fruits that have survived more than low temperature, when ripening rot. Large green and brown fruits are harvested in the morning, until they have warmed up in the sun, and sorted immediately. Healthy ones are laid for ripening in a dry, ventilated room. In the light, they turn brown faster, in the dark - more evenly.
If it is necessary that the tomatoes ripen slowly, they are selected at the same degree of maturity, placed in two or three layers, sprinkled with sawdust, and stored at a temperature of plus 8 - 10 degrees. For accelerated ripening, the temperature is raised to plus 20 - 25 and red fruits are added.
To keep the fruits fresh for 2–2.5 months or more, you need healthy tomatoes put in small boxes with trellised lids, stalks up. At the bottom of the box and between the fruits, pour dry peat or small chips with a layer of no more than 1.5 cm, or wrap each fruit in newsprint before placing it in the box. best temperature storage in this case - plus 12 degrees.
Advice
On dry, hot days, shake lightly to improve setting. flowering bushes so that the pollen rises in a light cloud.
Fact
Some lovers keep tomatoes fresh for up to 8 months by treating them with a whipped liquid mass of distilled water, egg yolks and gelatin (1 liter of water, 2 yolks, 1 bag of gelatin).
By the way
For a good harvest, it is very important that the fruits do not touch the ground. Therefore, brushes must be tied up, slingshots should be placed under them or pieces of broken slate should be placed under them. The lower dry and yellow leaves must be cut off.
Reference
Rules for pinching tomatoes
If planting tomatoes are thickened, then the plants need to be pinched:
if there is only one stem, then pinch it over the 3rd - 4th brush;
if there are two stems, the main stem is pinched over the 3rd brush, and the stepson - over the 2nd;
if there are three stems, the main stem is pinched over the 3rd brush, the first stepson is over the 2nd, and the second stepson is over the 1st.