Do-it-yourself drums: step-by-step instructions, device, tips. How to make drum sticks at home? Types of drumsticks by material: which sticks are better - wooden or made of artificial materials

don't wet your ear and that's it)

rather unpleasantly very ... Then another 2 weeks to go for procedures ..

Drums!
I want to learn how to play them ^^

and how the earth wears such ....

A&T Trade look. maybe they are waiting for you there.

Crew
Gangster Hunters

Danzel Washington is filming, good shot

The situation is classic - washing, handbrake, frost (-10) ... Bang, surprise. The right rear was torn off quite quickly, with the left problem .. I dragged 150-200 meters along the asphalt, it was useless. Probyval swing tightness, nothing helps, stands as if dead! I re-read a bunch of information, methods of unlocking on the spot (excluding a tow truck and a wonderful transfer to a warm place) in general 4;
- Boiling water per drum (from 200 gr to 5 l)
- Remove the wheel - tap with a hammer
- Without removing the wheel, tap on the mounting bolts
- Hairdryer, fan heater
Considering that I was standing on the road, the hair dryer fell off, I somehow didn’t feel like water and a sledgehammer .. and a separate respect - AndCam from Surgut! vacuum hose! Those one end in the exhaust pipe, the other on the drum! To be honest, I did not believe that it could help, BUT after 15 minutes of blowing exhaust gases at idle, without any chponka, everything was perfectly unlocked!
The ABS sensor, which naturally caught fire, went out after 200 meters, dried it further by braking, all is well!
Recomend for everybody! Fast, convenient, stress-free and the handles are clean!
Good luck on the roads!

If there are such suspicions, go immediately to the hospital at night. Doctors will be able to tell you more precisely!

kneecap (patella), navel (umbiliculus), collarbone (clavicula), mandible (mandibula), fossa canina

In today's post, we will go back a little to the basics of drumming and talk about, their structure, features and recommendations for choosing.

It would seem that the sticks are essentially just an insensitive extension of your hand, which transfers the energy of the swing to the plastic of the drum, however, not so little depends on this wooden twig, because your overall sound, and speed, and comfort when playing.

So, let's start our educational program:

STRUCTURE OF STICKS

Komel- the balance area of ​​the wand.

Body- the largest part of the stick, which serves as a grip and shock part when hitting a rim shot.

Shoulder- the area of ​​the stick often used for crash cymbal strikes and "return" strikes. The alternation of strikes with the end of the stick and the shoulder on the hi-hat creates the basis for leading the rhythm.
Thinning is the shape of the shoulder. The length and thickness of the taper affects the flexibility, feel and sound of the stick. Sticks with a short, thick taper feel more rigid, provide more durability, and produce a stronger sound than sticks with a long, narrow taper, which tend to be more brittle and flexible but sound more delicate.

Neck plays the role of the transition of the stick from the shoulder to the tip and allows you to identify the point of the beginning of the tip and the end of the shoulder of the stick. Thus, it serves as a connecting link between the tip and the shoulder. The shape of the neck is predetermined by the shape of the shoulder and tip.

Tips drumsticks come in a variety of shapes and sizes. The size of the head determines the intensity, volume and duration of the resulting sound.
There are so many forms of tips that sometimes it is far from an easy task to accurately group the sticks according to the type of tips. In addition to variations in shape, tips can vary in length, size, processing, and material. There are 8 main types of tips.

Style, scope - jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, swing, etc.

Peculiarities: It has a larger area of ​​contact with the plastic than the round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “blunts” sound production errors. Produces a medium fill sound with a wider focus. Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip. Recommended for beginner drummers.

Style, scope - Perfect for studio work, playing in a symphony orchestra, as well as for playing light jazz, both with symmetrical stick grip and traditional.

Peculiarities: Focuses the sound (which is clearly visible when playing cymbals) and significantly reduces the change in sound when struck at different angles of the stick.
Suitable for bright playing and clear sound production.
The small round tip produces a highly focused sound and is especially delicate with cymbals. Sticks with a large rounded part of such a tip produce a fuller sound.
Such a tip "does not tolerate" errors in sound production and is suitable for use by drummers with a correctly set beat.

Style, scope - light rock, jazz, funk, fusion, blues, groove, etc.

Peculiarities: It has a larger area of ​​contact with the plastic than the round one, which spares the plastic and, as it were, “blunts” sound production errors.
Produces a medium fill sound with a wider focus.
Produces a less bright and accentuated cymbal sound than a round tip.
Recommended for beginner drummers.

Style, scope - An excellent choice for drummers playing a variety of styles, from rock and metal to jazz and pop. Often used for styles such as: rock, rock'n'roll, hard rock smooth jazz, swing, ambient, easy listening, etc.

Peculiarities: First of all, it is designed for powerful, rhythmic and loud playing.

Due to the large area of ​​contact with plastic, they emit a dull, muffled, open, diffused, not sharp sound.
Also suitable for soft quiet play. Produces a dull medium attack sound.

Style, scope - trash metal, gothik metal, hard metal, rock, jazz, fusion, swing, etc. with lots of down beats on the cymbals.

Peculiarities: Thanks to its rounded shape, it performs well when playing fast in the style of speed metal. This tip is recommended for teaching primary hand placement.
Great for alternating fast up-down playing and slow-paced, concentrated (directed) strikes on both cymbals and drums for soft, focused picking.
Due to the “bulge” it allows you to control the sound and the area of ​​contact with the surface of the instruments in a very wide range, depending on the angle of the stick to the surface of the instrument.
Such a tip produces a full low sound, spreads energy over a wider area (compared to a round or triangular tip), thus increasing the life of the heads. A good choice for those who play hard. Gives a rich sound when played on cymbals.

Style, scope - rock, metal, pops, marsh, etc.

Peculiarities: Suitable for loud, heavily accented playing with a powerful sound attack. Recommended for marching drums, for performances on large stages, in stadiums.



Style, scope - swing, jazz, blues, fusion, etc. Often the choice of jazz drummers. Light and fast sticks with this tip are an ideal choice for playing in an orchestra and jazz ensemble.

Peculiarities: Produces a full high-pitched sound, spreads energy over a narrower area; Produces a rich cymbal sound with a focused sound attack.
Recommended for dull-sounding accents when playing at slow and medium tempos.
It has a good rebound, designed for clear and sharp blows.
Perfect for soft, accented sound production, especially with non-traditional grip.
When gripped straight, it's ideal for dull accents on a ride cymbal with up-down strikes, such as when leading a swing rhythm with a stick head.
Also recommended for heavy speed-metal and especially for training exercises.

Style, scope - rock, metal, pops, funk, swing, jungle, blues, etc.

Peculiarities: Produces a fairly bright, powerful sound with a low attack. Shows a good degree of clarity and articulation when hitting the ride cymbal.
Good for abrupt transitions from powerful loud playing to quiet rhythmic dull pulsation.
Great for both traditional and parallel grips.

SELECTION OF STICKS

The choice of sticks depends on what kind of music (rock, jazz, metal, pops or classical) you will play. The choice of material, size, shape and tip is mostly a matter of personal preference.

• The stick should feel comfortable in your hand and be suitable for producing the sound you want to achieve. For example, 7A sticks may be good for a small venue but not at all suitable for a street drum band.

• Choose sticks that are comfortable for your hands and suit your playing style. Feel the sticks. Hold them in your hands.

• The size of the wand should match your hand, both in diameter and length (often the length of a suitable wand is determined by the distance from the inner bend of the elbow to the tip of the ring finger). If the sticks sit comfortably in the palm of your hand, then you can get exactly the sound you want from the drum.

• Try a few different chopsticks to compare before you decide to buy one in particular. Once you've gained enough drumming experience, you'll probably find a particular brand and ideal model that best suits you.

Factors to consider when choosing sticks:

Type of wood. The sound and durability of the sticks will depend on the right choice of wood. The texture of the tree should not be pronounced, otherwise such sticks will quickly break.

Wood structure(dense, soft); it depends on the wear of the sticks.

wood hardness- resistance of wood to change in shape (deformation), or destruction in the surface layer under force impacts. Hardwood gives a brighter tone, more attack and spread, which many people like.

Density- the ratio of the mass of wood (the amount of wood substance) to its volume. Density is the most important indicator of strength: the heavier the wood, the greater the density and strength it has.

No two trees are the same, hence the density of a tree differs from log to log and even within the log itself. This explains why some sticks feel solid and powerful while others feel hollow despite being the same brand and model.

The density of wood also depends on its moisture content.

Treatment. For finishing, there are sticks:

polished without any coverage. During the grinding process, significant irregularities are removed from the surface of the sticks with abrasive materials, usually emery. At the same time, the natural roughness of the wood texture is preserved, which contributes to a better grip between the hand and the stick, as well as the absorption of excess moisture. But at the same time, such sticks are more susceptible to destruction, unlike varnished ones.

Lacquered. Lacquer transparent coatings protect the wood from moisture and dust, give the surface a beautiful intense even sheen, and texture - contrast. Coating the sticks with varnish makes their surface more durable. Lacquered sticks look a little worse than polished ones.

Polished. The highest class of stick finishing is polishing - leveling layers of varnish previously applied to the surface and giving the wood a distinctly visible texture. When polished, the surface of the sticks becomes durable, mirror-smooth and shiny by applying the thinnest layers of polish to it - an alcohol solution of vegetable resin.

Some drummers do not like varnished and polished sticks, as they can slip out of sweaty hands when playing.

Wood moisture is the percentage of moisture in the wood.
As a rule, a freshly felled tree contains up to 50% - 60% moisture, then it dries by itself by 12 - 16%, after which the moisture content of the wood stabilizes once and for all. That is why it is extremely important, before the wood is put into processing, to subject it to artificial drying to an optimal moisture level. Usually, wood for the production of sticks is dried in the range of up to 6 - 14% moisture. On average, the entire drying process takes two weeks. But the exact time of exposure and drying is not prescribed anywhere, and this is the secret of each manufacturer, who himself determines what degree of wood moisture he needs in order to process it on the machines and get the desired quality of the sticks.

At the end of production, sticks need low humidity, as the wood “breathes”, and the amount of moisture in it will constantly change depending on the humidity of the ambient air. Thus, the sticks will shrink and swell with changes in climate and humidity, but to what extent depends on how the wood was dried before they were produced.
Poorly dried wood before processing will subsequently peel off, warp, shrink, dry out, crack, warp and deform.

Stick length. Longer sticks have more leverage and the advantage of better drum reach, but are more difficult to control. If you want more power for the same diameter, choosing a longer stick is a good choice.

Diameter. The larger diameter has more mass, which develops more sound projection and loudness.

Wand weight. Weight affects the sound, strength, and your ability to control sticks. In general, heavy sticks sound more "thick" and louder. If the sticks are lighter, then they make a "thin" and soft sound.

Heavy poles have more momentum, so their trajectories are more consistent and more forgiving, making them easier to handle for beginners. In addition, playing with heavier sticks develops the endurance of the drummer, regardless of his natural ability. So it's not a bad idea to have additional heavier sticks in your arsenal to expand your sonic capabilities. You will notice that when you switch to lighter poles, they are more difficult to control.

evenness- an important indicator that contributes to a uniform feeling of balance of the sticks. In the initial stages of the production of sticks, the most important is the control of the drying process of the blanks. But since wood is a living “breathing” material that absorbs moisture, the shape and size of the sticks will always depend on external conditions. Therefore, two sticks will never be perfectly even.

Recoil Absorption depends on the shape of the stick and the type of wood. The more the drumstick absorbs recoil, the less stress in the hand and joints, which means it's easier to play.
The feeling of "balance" (center of gravity) and comfortable grip depends on the type of wood, its drying, the shape of the stick and the structure of the drummer's hand.

MARKING

Traditional model numbering such as 3S, 2B, 5B, 5A, and 7A was the earliest accepted drumstick numbering, with a number and a letter representing the stick's size and function. The exact specifications of each model varied slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, especially in the points of constriction of the wand and its tip.

Digital Position figuratively denotes the diameter (more precisely, the thickness) of the stick. Basically, a smaller number means a larger diameter, and a larger number means a smaller diameter. For example, stick 7A is smaller in diameter than 5A, which in turn is thinner than 2B. The only exception is 3S, which is larger in diameter than 2B, despite the number.
Letter designations"S", "B" and "A" used to indicate the scope of a particular model, but today they have almost completely lost their meaning.

"S" meant "Street". Initially, this stick model was designed for outdoor use: for playing in marching bands or drum bands, where a lot of power and loudness of performance is expected; accordingly, the sticks of this group have the largest size.

"B"- meant Band. Originally intended for use in brass and symphony orchestras.
They have a larger shoulder and head (for louder playing) than the "A" model. Usually used in heavy, noisy music.
They are easier to control and are recommended for beginner drummers. The Model 2B is highly recommended by drum teachers as the ideal starting stick.

"A" comes from the word "Orchestra". For reasons of the legendary drummer and creator of percussion instruments William Ludwig, instead of the letter “O”, the letter “A” was used, which, in his opinion, looked better than “O” when printed.
The "A" models were originally intended for big bands; bands playing dance music.

Typically, these sticks are thinner than the "B" models, with thinner necks and small heads, which makes it possible to produce a quiet and soft sound. Typically, sticks of this model are used in light music, such as jazz, blues, pops, etc.

The "A" models are the most popular among drummers.

"N" means Nylon and is a relatively new designation. It is added at the end of the marking (for example, "5A N") and indicates that the stick has a nylon tip.

STICKS MATERIAL

All indicators of the physical and mechanical properties of wood are determined at a moisture content of 12%.

American Walnut (Hickory)- the perfect tree for drumsticks. Durable, hard, well absorbs recoil upon impact, effectively dampens vibrations transmitted from blows to hands. It has an average weight, little prone to bending.

Density 815 kg/cu.m.,
Jank hardness - 1820

Beech European (European Beech) has a straight grained wood structure, flexible.
The hardness and density of wood is different, depending on the place where the trees grow. Beech wood is similar to oak wood in terms of its basic mechanical properties.
After drying, most wood characteristics improve, and beech becomes stronger than oak in bending, surpassing it in stiffness and shear resistance by about a quarter, and even more in impact strength.

Beech quickly and strongly reacts to changes in humidity, which is why it can be called "capricious" or "sensitive".

Density from 660 to 700 kg/cu.m.

Jank hardness - 1300

Maple- the lightest and most flexible tree with a soft structure. Although maple is not as hard and durable as American walnut or oak, maple sticks are an ideal choice if you prefer a light feel and quick response. Maple sticks are considered "docile sticks" with excellent recoil absorption, flexibility and good bounce, and are used primarily for quiet or fast playing to produce a light "airy" sound - especially when playing cymbals.

Maple density 620 - 675 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1450

Oak(Oak) is a very strong wood, weighs more than maple and walnut, and is much more durable. Oak sticks are the heaviest, densest, strongest and have a noticeable impact. Oak is rarely used to make sticks. Very moisture resistant tree.

Density from 675 to 970 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1360

Hornbeam(Hornbeam) has a medium density structure, good recoil absorption (average between walnut and maple), fairly high wear resistance. The weight of the wood ranges from very light to medium heavy. The flexibility of the hornbeam is somewhat worse than that of beech and oak. Sticks from it are resistant to shock loads. Like beech, it is afraid of moisture.

Density - 750 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 1860

Pao Rosa(Rosewood) (Rosewood) - a very strong, hard, but rather fragile tree. Sticks made from it are preferred because of their wonderful tonal tint and feel, but they are not suitable for playing on the iron.

Density from 709 to 780 kg/cu.m.
Jank hardness - 2720

Other materials. In addition to wood, sticks are made of polyurethane, carbon fiber (Carbon) or aluminum. All these sticks are extremely durable.

Recently, steel sticks for training are also gaining popularity. In view of the large weight, they cannot be played on a drum kit, and they are only suitable for training and practicing technique. But not everyone agrees with him, adhering to the opinion: the brushes will become stronger, but will lose their flexibility. In moderation and with the right approach, they can be useful, otherwise they can only harm, so they should be dealt with with caution.

This article is devoted to a story about what they are, as well as what the marking of sticks means, and how to choose the right sticks for a particular setting. The type of drum stick you use will affect the sound, speed, and overall playing comfort.

Types of drumsticks differ in the types of heads (which, in turn, also differ in several ways), material, application and thickness. Next, we will consider each of these classifications.

Types of drumsticks by head type: shape and material of manufacture

It is customary to distinguish four main types: cylindrical, round, pointed and teardrop-shaped. The size and shape of the head determine the duration of the sound, its volume and intensity.

1) Heads in the form of a cylinder (English Barreltip) give a diffused and open sound due to the large area of ​​​​contact with the surface of the drum.

2) Round heads (Balltip) level out differences in sound when struck at different angles and focus the sound, which is especially useful when playing cymbals.

3) Pointedortriangletip heads produce a medium focused sound and are probably the most popular for this reason.

4) Drop-shaped heads (Teardroptip) outwardly similar to pointed ones. Due to the convex shape, they allow you to control the sound and the area of ​​​​contact with the plastic by changing the angle of the stick.

Heads can be made of wood or nylon. Nylon gives a clean and distinct sound and hardly wears. Of the minuses can be noted in their relatively high price. The wood gives a soft and warm sound; lack of wooden heads - grinding.

Types of drumsticks by material: which sticks are better - wooden or made of artificial materials?

The most popular types of wood in the manufacture of sticks are maple, oak and hickory (light walnut).

1) Maple sticks are lightweight and are good for quiet and fast playing. They break and wear out quite quickly.

2) Hickory has a higher density than maple; hickory sticks are harder and stronger. They have the ability to dampen vibrations that are transmitted to the hands upon impact.

3) Oak sticks - the most durable of the wooden ones; they are the heaviest and densest. For the manufacture of sticks, oak is used relatively rarely.

Artificial materials for chopsticks are mainly aluminum and polyurethane. They are the most durable and often have the ability to replace individual parts.

Drumstick markings.

The sticks are marked with letters and numbers (2B, 5A, etc.), where the number indicates the thickness (moreover, the smaller the number is indicated, the thicker the stick), and the letter indicates the area of ​​application. The most common marking scheme is given below.

• The "A" models were intended for musicians who performed big band dance music. They have relatively small heads and thin necks and allow you to extract a soft sound (suitable for blues and jazz). The "A" model is the most popular among modern drummers.
• Model "B" was originally intended for symphony and brass bands. They "sound" louder than "A", and are used in heavy music. They are also recommended for beginner drummers.
• Model "S" was intended for urban marching bands, where high impact force and loudness of performance are required. Model "S" sticks are the largest and are almost never used when playing drum kits.
• The letter "N" indicates that the stick has a nylon head. It is added at the end of the marking (eg "3B N").

As you can see, when choosing drumsticks, it is worth considering a large number of nuances. Now you know everything about the main types of drumsticks and can be guided by this knowledge. If you successfully select the sticks, then your

A great idea, according to psychologists, is to teach a child to music from an early age. You can either buy a drum at a toy store or make your own. A simple tin can and a little imagination can help you easily implement your plan.

Benefit or noise?

Many adults believe that a children's drum is of no use. It is simply a source of noise and accompanies the appearance of a headache. Nevertheless, the drum is very often instructed to make by parents together with the kids in kindergarten. However, this does not happen for the additional workload of the crumbs and the parent on the weekends. Most often, a loud attribute is intended for performances at a matinee. And you can't do without it.

Do not think that the manufacture of this item is a waste of time. Who knows, maybe the child has acting skills, and already in kindergarten he will decide on his future profession. And such a craft will bring a lot of benefits, even if it is carried out at the request of a kindergarten teacher.

What to make a tool from

In the mass of necessary tips for creating drums with your own hands at home, it is worth highlighting one not-so-serious recommendation. It is more of a comic character, but every joke has its own piece of truthful meaning. A homemade drum for a child can be used not at all for a matinee. It all depends on the imagination of the parents.

One has only to look around, each person can notice several cans or packages that are unlikely to be useful. From these materials, you can make a drum for playing with your hands or special sticks.

Reasons for creating crafts

This question certainly worries all adults. Every parent wants to find out the reasons for such a pastime with their child. There are several examples of reasons for such an activity:

• Connecting with the child through joint activities.
• An exciting start to the evening for the whole family.
• Development of coordination of movements and a sense of rhythm in crumbs. After all, with a craft that was invented and created with your own hands, you can participate in an impromptu march.
• It can be difficult for a kid to beat the drum with sticks, but try to play an interesting favorite melody from a children's song or cartoon.
• Drums that are played by hand can be an excellent option for a crumbs lesson for some time in their summer cottage.
• Finally, the drum can become a weapon of revenge against annoying neighbors who constantly make repairs on Sunday mornings.

It should be borne in mind that an act of retaliation for neighboring apartments can occur without disturbing the peace of adults. To do this, residents of an apartment with a newly-minted drummer need to buy ear plugs or a pair of headphones in order to muffle the noise in the room.

Plastic bucket with lid

Not every adult knows how to make a drum with their own hands from a plastic garden bucket. You can paint such a tool with simple paints, it can also be pasted over with ordinary colored paper. It all depends on the imagination of the little master. The lid on such a bucket should fit tightly. After all, the tool will be damaged if the upper part of the tool flies off at the most inopportune moment.

A plastic bucket drum can be simply held in the hands, and can also be hung around the neck. It is very easy to perform this action. The material has two holes from the handle on the sides. It is in them that you need to thread an impromptu strap, fixing it with knots.

Sticks for such a plastic tool can be selected from improvised materials. Pencils or old felt-tip pens that no longer draw can easily play this role. So, things will be given a second life and the child will be satisfied. Brushes for the kitchen, which every housewife has, can also make interesting sounds.

The child can try the sound of absolutely any object in the apartment, choose the most suitable one. Do not limit the imagination of the future musician or composer. A child needs to be given freedom of action sometimes.

paper product

A decorative drum for a little musician can even be created from plain paper or cardboard. To do this, cut out two circles of the same diameter. Their size can be any. After that, a strip of paper is cut out, which will become the connecting element for the top and bottom of the tool.

The paper structure can be glued with glue or connected with tape. You can decorate the craft with paints or pencils, paste it with various paper illustrations, stickers, cover it with bright satin fabric and sew funny pompoms on the sides on it. So, do-it-yourself children's crafts will find their own individuality. This part of the work, no doubt, can be done by the little mother's helper himself.

Almost any idea of ​​​​a little dreamer can and should be brought to life. And for this it is not at all necessary to run around the shops and spend large sums. Do-it-yourself drums will not only look unusual and original, but will not require much time to create.

Necessary tools and materials

The basis of the craft for the child in this case will be a simple round tin can. Other required materials include:

• hole punch for leather;
• a small piece of fabric of a bright color (can be replaced with colored paper);
• leather flap;
• glue gun;
• leatherette laces;
• glue for fabric elements;
• cotton wool

And also in the process of work it will be impossible to do without wooden sticks.

Tool making step by step

At the beginning of the work, you need to cut out a part of a suitable size from a bright fabric and glue it over a jar. The fabric can be any. In its absence, the base is simply pasted over with colored paper, which is sold in any stationery store or supermarket.

A jar is placed on a piece of leather material and outlined. 10 cm must be added to the resulting diameter of the tool. Another circle is drawn.

Along the radius of the part, with a pencil, areas are marked where the holes will be located in the future. Do-it-yourself indentation of 1 cm is made from the edge in any version of the manufacture of the drum. Holes on the skin are made with a special hole punch.

A leatherette cord is threaded through the holes obtained. It must subsequently be tightened tightly on one side of the jar. The same steps must be repeated when creating the bottom for making a drum with your own hands. The lace is also used for additional fixation of products diagonally. In this case, the element is threaded under the lacing, which is located at the top and bottom of the drum.

The final stage is the manufacture of sticks for the drum by hand at home. To do this, a wooden stick is connected to a bead-knob. A small cotton ball is glued on top of the bead, wrapped with thread so that there are no empty spaces left. This is how a drum stick is made.

Instead of total

It's so easy to create drums with your own hands. Without a doubt, this exciting activity will appeal to the baby. After all, a child in work can act as an apprentice. And creative activities with the whole family will not only contribute to the development of the child’s imagination, but will also have a positive effect on the imagination and thinking of the crumbs. If a child seeks to create things with his own hands, then this activity should be encouraged by adults, because such a pastime contributes to the development of children, the consolidation of various household skills, and simply brings joy.

Drum sticks are the most necessary accessory for playing various percussion instruments. Usually they are made of wood, but they are also found in maple, hazel, oak, hornbeam and beech.

In any music store you can see different models of this accessory. The number that is indicated on the stick is the marking of the thickness of the sticks, and the letter is the purpose of the sticks. For a beginner drummer, as an example of how to make drumsticks yourself, sticks marked ''2B'' will serve well. You can play with them in brass and symphony orchestras, as they technically develop the drummer very well.

Drum sticks are those musical items that, in light of their diversity, often cause confusion for people who want to buy them. The thing is that today there is no single principle for designating drumsticks. For example, in the case of some manufacturers, the name of drumsticks becomes clear only in the process of classification by musical styles - drumsticks for Rock, Jazz, etc. styles.

The ability to rotate drumsticks only has only an indirect connection with the experience and skill of the drummer. But the acquired skills of how to twist drumsticks correctly will definitely make a strong impression on people watching the musician. After all, in a psychological context, this is an indicator of free possession of the drum and a friendly attitude towards it.

As in any business, it is clear that this, first of all, requires practice. In order to learn how to spin drumsticks, you need to work a little. First you need to place your hand up palms. Then bend at the elbow, raise the hand to the chest (the fingers should not be tense, but, on the contrary, free). Then you should pinch the drumstick between the tip of the index finger and the pad of the thumb. The drummer should rest with the tips of the middle, ring and little fingers on the drumstick. And as for the center of gravity of the drumstick, it should be closer to the wrist, and not between the index and thumb.

In order to learn how to learn how to twist drumsticks, you need to continue the steps by doing the following - loosen the pressure with your index finger, pulling the stick back a little and pushing hard with the middle one. At the same time, you need to press all fingers with the exception of the thumb to the palm, until the thumb “turns around” during the rotation of the stick. In the event that the fingers are in their original position, the stick will stumble and thus the beard will not be completed.

The last thing to do is to release the stick to its original position, closing the fingers at the end of the turn, and then repeat. In general, learning this inventive attitude towards drumsticks, if desired, is not difficult, but even fun.