Grow radishes outdoors. How to grow a radish in the open field and collect a record harvest? Seed selection and preparation for planting

Plant a radish in open ground in the spring you can only certain deadlines, which depend on a number of factors. It is also important to follow the recommendations of the lunar calendar, since sowing seeds in auspicious days contributes to a rich harvest.

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What determines the timing of planting radishes in the spring

Sowing time depends on several factors:

• from weather conditions and climate;
• from a radish variety;
• from the phase of the moon.

Weather conditions of the region

To choose the right sowing time, you need to focus not on the month in the calendar, but on the air temperature in the region:

• during the day it should be more than + 10 ° C;
• around +5°C at night.

During this period, the soil is still wet, and daylight hours are short. These are the most favorable conditions for seed germination, so they will sprout in a week.

If you plant radishes at temperatures below +10°C, then the emergence of seedlings will be slightly delayed, although it will not affect their yield. late landings will germinate in 3 days, but there is a possibility of early appearance of arrows due to the heat and long daylight hours. This will greatly reduce the amount of harvest.

1. Moscow region and the middle lane. Here it is better to plant a vegetable from the third decade of March until the end of May.
2. AT Leningrad region the optimal time will be the beginning of April - the third decade of May.
3. In the European part and Siberia, the root crop is sown no earlier than the beginning of May. In the Urals, this period can be shifted downward by 7-10 days.
4. In the southern regions of Russia, in Krasnodar, Rostov region or in the Kuban, radishes are planted at the end of March.

Vegetable variety

The planting time of varieties is calculated based on weather conditions and ripening dates. The period of active growth of the vegetable should fall on a warm time, but before the appearance of summer heat. Optimal conditions for root growth +20°C.

There are 3 types of radishes:

• early ripe;
• mid-season;
• late ripening.

With early varieties you can start harvesting fruits 3 weeks after germination, from medium - in a month, and a late-ripening vegetable ripens for about 40 days.

AT recent times early maturing varieties appeared, which give the first fruits already 18 days after germination. This is possible only when the necessary temperature conditions are created.

Early varieties:

• 18 days;
• Alyoshka F1;
• Ultra Early Red.

Varieties with a white tail (18 days, French breakfast) should not be planted too early. With a long stay of their seeds in cold ground, the fruits will be hollow.

Radish variety 18 days Radish variety Ultra early red Radish varieties Alyoshka F1

In order to please yourself with a vitamin-rich vegetable for longer, it is better to sow several varieties. The beds are planted with a difference of a week, they warm one after another, extending the harvesting period.

early ripe radish

Of the early ripe varieties, they showed themselves well:

• Kitty Kitty;
• Cherry bella;
• Dawn;
• Heat;
• French breakfast;
• Early Red;
• Premier.

These varieties can be planted from the third decade of March until April 5-6. Maximum term landings - April 10 (under bad weather conditions).

auspicious days

The most suitable days for growing radishes in 2019 are:

• in March - from 20 to 23;
• in April - from 6 to 9, 20, as well as in the period from 23 to 26;
• in May - 7,8,9,10 numbers, as well as the time from May 19, 20, 22, 23 and 24.

bad days

Such days of 2019 are not suitable for planting radishes:

• in March - 2, 4, 13, 14, 16;
• in April - 1, 14, 15, 19;
• in May - 1, 2, 6, 14, 21, 30, 31.

- one of the most popular vegetable plants in open and protected ground. This crop is demanding on fertility, moisture and soil structure. To get an early harvest, radishes are allocated areas with light loamy soils and a deep humus layer, preferably on a southern or southwestern slope. Radishes should not be grown in saline soils.

Radishes can be sown after any vegetable crop(except cabbage). Often it is cultivated as an intermediate crop: before planting cucumber or tomato, planting late varieties of cauliflower, before summer sowing of turnips. Can be sown after harvest early potato, green crops, as well as in the aisles of cucumber plantings.

This culture is quite cold-resistant.

Seeds begin to germinate at a temperature of + 4-5 ° C, but the warmer the soil, the faster shoots appear. Young sprouts are not afraid of temperatures down to -4°C, and adult plants tolerate frosts down to -6°C. However, a prolonged cold snap delays the formation of root crops, worsens their quality, and causes flowering.

With high temperatures during the growing season and especially with drought, radishes are poorly tolerated. The root crop becomes woody, bitter, loses its juiciness and goes to the arrow early. It works best in a cool, humid period, in early spring or in the second half of summer. In the midst of the July heat, radishes provide a low-value product. It should be remembered that the first half of August in central Russia is the last date for ground sowing of radishes. In the south, autumn crops are pushed back to the end of August - September.

This crop can be grown in compacted crops. Planted, for example, cabbage. It will only develop its leaves in one or two months and close the area around it. Before that, early and mid-early radishes will have time to grow in its aisles. As a beacon crop, it helps to fight weeds and soil crust in a timely manner when growing hard-to-grow crops: carrots, parsley, dill, etc. For example, when sowing carrots in grooves, along with the seeds of the main crop, one radish seed is laid out every 25-30 cm. Carrots will sprout in 2-3 weeks, and radish - in 4-5 days and mark the rows. Before the sprouts of carrots appear, you can fearlessly weed the aisles, prevent weeds from drowning it out.

Very convenient sowing at the end of summer. In the spring, we do not have time to sow seeds on time, and numerous gardening chores distract us from caring for seedlings. Late July - early August is a great time to sow radishes. The tiring heat subsides, it rains more and more often, and therefore there is enough moisture in the soil. Many plants have already given up their crops and vacated part of the beds. Try planting a collection of radishes with different root ripening dates. And then all September you will be able to harvest magnificent juicy root crops of excellent taste.

Failures in growing radishes are most often due to the fact that many do not know enough about the biology and agricultural technology of radishes. Radish is a long-day plant: under such conditions (at the beginning of June, daylight hours last more than 17 hours), it quickly reaches the flowering phase, a peduncle appears, and the root crop becomes rough, inedible. To avoid this, you can cover the beds for 2-3 weeks (from 18 to 8 hours) with an opaque film. At short day(10-12 hours) stalking is delayed for 2-3 months, and the root crop long time saves good taste. The stalking also increases with the thickening of the crop and the lack of moisture. Often, gardeners, especially beginners, regret thinning out radish seedlings. As a result, the plants oppress each other, the root crop may not even be tied.

Radish is photophilous, especially in the first period of growth. Therefore, already in the phase of cotyledon leaves, plantings must be thinned out, while providing for each plant left 24-25 cm 2 for early maturing varieties and 36-42 cm 2 - for mid-season.

How to care for radishes

The area reserved for radishes should be dug up in the fall and humus or compost should be added (2-3 kg per 1 m 2). In the spring, for digging, one tablespoon of phosphorus, potash and nitrogen fertilizers is added, or 2-3 tablespoons of nitrophoska per 1 m 2. With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, leaves and root crops develop poorly, and with a lack of potassium, root crops.

Radishes are sown in several periods, starting from the middle or end of April, then at intervals of 10-15 days. The deadline for spring sowing is the second half of May: no later than the 25th. In June and the first half of July, only non-shooting varieties are used for sowing: Vera, Viola, F1 Lightning, Polka.

For a bed of 1 m 2, from 2 to 5 g of seeds are needed, the embedment depth is 1.5 - 2.5 cm, depending on the type of soil. With deeper sowing, the field germination of seeds decreases by 1.5-2 times. Seeds are placed with a feeding area from 4 x 5 to 6 x 7 cm. When sowing in rows, the distance between them is 8-10 cm, between plants in a row is 3-4 cm. Varieties of early ripening require a small feeding area, they are sown thicker, for sowing per 1 m 2, more seeds are required than when growing mid-season varieties. Seeds of late-ripening varieties are placed 15-20 cm apart at a sowing rate of 2 g per 1 m 2.

Precise sowing with a special marker made from a board with teeth is more efficient and increases the yield of radishes by up to 40%. For varieties with an elongated root - Slava, Dungansky - furrows are made 1-1.5 cm deep in order to spud them with the emergence of seedlings. Sowing in furrows causes a slight elongation of the hypocotyl, and subsequent hilling contributes to the elongation of the root crop.

After sowing, it is advisable to mulch the bed with peat or humus with a layer of 1-2 cm and cover it with a film for 5-7 days in order to get quick shoots. For sowing, well-executed, large seeds with a diameter of at least 2.5 mm should be selected. Small ones do not germinate well and often produce flowering plants. To get friendly seedlings, the seeds are divided by size into fractions and each is sown separately.

To speed up germination, seeds can be soaked in water for a day and sown pecked. Seedlings at a temperature of + 18-20 ° C appear on the 5-7th day. Radishes tolerate transplanting well. young age. With thickened sowing, seedlings can be planted or thinned out, otherwise you will get only tops, not root crops. If the plants are very stretched, they pour the earth to them.

When caring for radish crops, in addition to the formation of the correct sowing density, much attention must be paid to watering. Before the formation of the root, radishes are watered moderately, and as soon as the root begins to expand, watering is increased. At least 10-15 liters of water is required per 1 m 2. Radishes are watered regularly every 2-3 days, and in dry weather - daily. On hot days, it is better to do this in the evening, and after watering the soil must be loosened or mulched. After each collection of root crops, the remaining plants must also be watered.

In summer, seeds are sown only in moist soil. With a lack of moisture, the grooves are watered before sowing, and after sowing they are rolled. To preserve moisture, the ridges are mulched with peat or humus.

If fertilizers were not applied when preparing the soil for radishes, then plant seedlings can be fed with a weak solution of a mixture of mineral fertilizers (3 tablespoons per bucket of water). On poor soils, nitrogen fertilizers are applied (0.5 tablespoon per 1 m 2) immediately after thinning, and then again seven days later. After each top dressing, the plants are well watered.

When growing radishes in the shade and with thickened crops, root crops do not work out.

When growing radishes in a greenhouse the best soil is a mixture sod land and humus (1:2). A mixture of soddy soil with peat (1: 1) or compost with peat (1: 1) is also used. In protected ground after emergence, moderate humidity and ventilation are necessary. During the formation of root crops, watering is increased, and immediately before harvesting they are stopped.

Diseases and pests of radish

Blackleg

The disease manifests itself on young plants in the form of darkening of the basal part of the stem, which is why it got its name.

The black leg of radish is caused by several types of soil fungi. Fungi infect seedlings at an early age, when only cotyledons or no more than 2-3 true leaves are developed in it. The basal part of the stem at first becomes as if watery, and then turns brown and rots, the plant lies down and dies. Drops of seedlings occur in foci, several neighboring plants die near one plant.

Blackleg pathogens persist in the soil and accumulate when the same area is continuously used for growing radishes for a number of years.

The development of the black leg is favored high humidity and acidity of the soil, thickening of crops, weakening of plants by malnutrition, such as excess nitrogen, high temperature.

In the fight against the black leg are important preventive actions. Plants should be grown in soil free from blackleg pathogens. With the accumulation of infection in greenhouses, the soil is replaced or disinfected.

Since an acidic environment is favorable for the development of blackleg pathogens, liming the soil is recommended. Good results gives the introduction of ash into the soil at the rate of 200 g per 1 m2. It is important to observe the optimal plant density, do not overestimate the doses of nitrogen fertilizers when fertilizing, and ventilate greenhouses in a timely manner. At early appearance foci of the black leg, diseased plants must be removed.

quila

The plant cell under the influence of the fungus growing in it increases in volume. When the cell divides, tumors or growths form on the roots. Diseased roots are developed and work poorly. In the hot time of the day, the lower leaves may droop, the plant wilts, easily pulled out of the soil. Subsequently, the outgrowths on the roots are destroyed under the influence of soil microorganisms, the spores enter the soil, where they can persist for 4-5 years or more.

Kyla affects young and adult plants. Of the other plants of this family, many species of wild plants are affected - shepherd's purse, yarutka, field mustard, etc.

To prevent the development of the disease, the soil is limed, in the spring (10-12 days before sowing), 1-1.5 kg of freshly slaked lime per 1 m 2 is applied, crop rotation is observed with the exception of cabbage from the infected area for 4-5 years.

cruciferous fleas

Cruciferous fleas are one of the most dangerous pests young plants of all cabbage crops, including radish. Fleas can seriously damage seedlings in protected and open ground.

Immature beetles overwinter under various plant remains in the field, under fallen leaves, along ditches, in gardens, in the upper layers of the soil, often in cracks and crevices. greenhouse frames. In the spring, as soon as the soil thaws and the first vegetation appears, the fleas awaken. At first, they feed on various weeds from the cabbage family. When shoots appear or after planting seedlings in the ground, fleas in the mass pass to cultivated plants.

Females lay their eggs in the ground in areas occupied by cabbage root crops or weeds. The larvae emerging from the eggs feed on small roots of plants without causing any noticeable damage to them.

Overwintered beetles cause the greatest harm, which damage mainly leaves, very rarely leaf petioles, and even less often flowers and pods on testes. On the leaves, fleas scrape out small pits and sores. Damaged tissue dries up, crumbles, resulting in small holes. Plants can easily cope with minor damage, but if the pest attacks in mass, the plants are stunted, heavily eaten leaves dry out, and sometimes the whole plant dies, especially if the fleas destroy the growth point. The activity and voracity of beetles in the spring increases in hot and dry weather.

Control measures: used to repel fleas wood ash mixed in equal parts with tobacco dust and lime, pollinating plants every 4-5 days.

Actellik and Fosbecid are also used, spraying plants during the growing season.

cabbage flies

Plants are damaged by larvae of two species cabbage fly- spring and summer. They are distributed everywhere where crops of the cabbage family are grown. Fly larvae penetrate into inner part the main root, which leads to a delay in the receipt nutrients to the ground part. Plants are delayed in development, weaken and die.

Cabbage flies look similar to those familiar to us house flies. The spring fly reaches a length of 6-6.8 mm, the summer fly is slightly larger -7-8 mm. The eggs are white, with a deep groove, 1-1.1 mm long. Larvae legless, white, shiny, cylindrical, 8 mm long. The pupa hibernates in the soil at a depth of 10-15 cm in the places where the larvae were located in the previous year. Flies emerge from cocoons in early spring after the soil warms up to +12°C, which coincides with the average time for planting seedlings of cabbage (the main host plant) in open ground. The flight of flies begins during the flowering of birch, cherry. In protected ground, flies appear earlier. Female flies lay their eggs in soil cracks formed at the base of plant stems, either singly or in small groups. The emerging larvae move to the stem and roots and take root in them. The duration of feeding of the larvae is 20-30 days, after which they go into the soil to pupate.

The spring fly develops in two generations, the summer fly in one. The most dangerous is the spring generation, which damages immature young plants.

Control measures: early dates sowing seeds to the optimal depth, periodically raking eggs from plants and hilling the latter. Hilling is repeated after watering and fertilizing. Careful autumn digging soil, which contributes to the death of a significant number of cocoons of flies. To repel flies, tobacco dust, mixed in equal quantities with slaked news or ash, is sprinkled close to the stems.

cabbage aphid

This small sucking insect that damages leaves is ubiquitous. The body of wingless females that give birth to larvae without fertilization is ovoid, 1.9-2.3 mm long, covered with grayish-whitish waxy dust. In winged females, the wings are transparent, with a characteristic dark spot at the top, the head and chest are brown, the abdomen is yellow-green, and the body is up to 2.3 mm long. Oviparous females are wingless, 1.7 mm long. The egg is elongated-oval, initially creamy, later black, shiny, 0.5 mm long. The larvae are similar to adult wingless aphids, but much smaller. The eggs overwinter on weeds. In the spring, larvae emerge from them. They develop into wingless aphids - females that give birth to larvae. Later appear winged females, usually migrating in the middle of summer from weeds to cultivated plants, where they reproduce, giving birth to larvae. One female gives birth to up to 40 larvae. With the mass development of the pest, the leaves of plants are completely covered with aphids. Damaged leaves become discolored, sometimes turn pink, curl, and plant development stops. When the testicles are damaged, no seeds are formed. During the summer, up to 16-17 generations of aphids develop. Aphids destroy many beneficial insects: afidus ichneumon, beetles and larvae ladybugs, larvae of lacewings, hover flies.

Control measures: collecting and burning plant residues, destruction of weeds of the cabbage family. Planting next to the radish plants of the nightshade family (tomato, eggplant, pepper), which repel cabbage aphids. When the first colonies of aphids are found, the places inhabited by them are wiped with a rag dipped in a solution laundry soap. In the case of mass reproduction of aphids, infusions and decoctions from plants with insecticidal properties are used - yarrow, onion, garlic, horse sorrel, hot pepper.

Harvesting and storage of radishes

Radishes of early and mid-ripening varieties should be harvested selectively, as they mature. It is impossible to be late with cleaning, as root crops quickly coarsen. If the tops are removed from the harvested root crops, they can be stored for some time in the refrigerator at a temperature of +2 to +5 ° C.

When storing radishes, thick polyethylene bags (150-200 microns) are used. They create high air humidity and accumulate a favorable concentration of CO 2 (2-3%), which contributes to the preservation of root crops. Loose bags filled with root crops are placed on racks in cool rooms. Radishes keep well in boxes lined with plastic wrap.

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When to plant a radish in the spring in open ground to harvest a delicious harvest?

R edis is an early vegetable crop and one of the first to give its harvest to diligent gardeners. But on the condition that they know when to plant radishes and how to grow a healthy root crop. At proper agricultural practices you can harvest delicious radishes with early spring until autumn frosts. To do this, it is necessary to observe the frequency of sowing and know when to plant radishes in spring and summer, and when to plant radishes in autumn. After all, sometimes autumn planting radishes or late summer are more successful than planting radishes late spring. To always have best result, we will find out why it depends, and how to grow radishes correctly.

RADISH FROM THE CROSS-FLOWER FAMILY

Radishes are part of the Cabbage family, or Cruciferous, and are grown throughout Russia, both in open and closed ground. The Mediterranean is considered its homeland, and the closest relative of the radish is the bitter radish.

Cultivation of radishes began in the 16th century. Among other root crops, it stands out in that in just 20-40 days after seed germination, a ready-made marketable products. At the same time, some hybrids use leaves for cooking.

Annual vegetable plant consists of a root crop and a bunch of leaves. Most varieties of radishes have a round root or close to this shape, but there are varieties and hybrids of oval, conical and cylindrical shapes. They can be painted in pinkish, red, white, yellow and violet-pinkish shades.

The elongated oval leaves have a wavy edge. Small flowers in a brush-type inflorescence are painted in pinkish and white shades, located at the top of a branched shoot. Brownish spherical seeds ripen in fruit pods.

RADIS GROWING CONDITIONS

Agrotechnics of radish directly depends on growing conditions, namely:
light - radish grows well in the light or in partial shade,
temperature,
soil acidity and fertility,
day length,
the required amount of moisture.

Temperature

Radish tolerates low temperatures well and begins to germinate at two or three degrees Celsius. Its seedlings withstand short frosts down to -3°C, and mature plants down to -6°C. But at low temperatures seed germination lasts more slowly up to two weeks, and the formation of root crops is inhibited, while the percentage of underdeveloped ones among them increases.

In addition, low temperatures at the level of + 5-10 degrees accelerate the formation of a flower shoot, after which the root crop ceases to form correctly or does not grow at all. It tastes bitter, hard, rough. More faster flowering radish comes in summer hot weather.

The optimal daytime temperature for growing radishes will be + 15-20 degrees, and at night + 11-15 degrees. Under such conditions, root crops develop rapidly, they turn out to be large, strong and juicy.

day length

This indicator should not be underestimated, since with excess light or its lack, the correct formation harvest. With a light day of more than 12 hours, especially in hot weather, the root crops initially develop quite quickly, but soon end their growth abruptly without reaching the desired result. At the same time, the leaves begin to grow rapidly, after which the radish blooms. But with a 10-11-hour light day, radishes do not form inflorescences until the root crops ripen, and this allows you to get a high-quality harvest of tasty radishes.

The soil

For good and fast growth, the crop needs loose, permeable soils with plenty of nutrients. In terms of composition, loams will be the best, since sandy and clay soils will have to be improved. In addition to the standard enrichment of the substrate for sandy soils, it will be useful to add clay, and for clay soils - sand.

The acidity of the soil for radishes can vary from slightly acidic to neutral (pH 6.0-7.2), but it should not be acidic. Strongly acidic lands harm root crops, causing clubroot disease, so such soils must be limed. To do this, 1 to 2 kg of lime is applied per 10 square meters. Helps reduce acidity and digging ash , it also enriches the soil with nutrients.

organic fertilizers(manure or humus) for growing radishes is applied only on lands with a small amount of humus and under the previous crop. In this case, for one square meter accounts for 4 to 5 kg of organic matter. If for some reason this could not be done, then it is worth using fast-acting complex fertilizers or compost, but not fresh manure, which makes the radish hollow, promotes disease, and reduces the shelf life of the radish.

Moisture

Culture needs a large number of water. Its lack, even for 2-3 hours, causes flowering in radishes, and lignification or softness in root crops. To avoid this, in hot weather, the plants are watered twice a day, sprinkling is carried out.

But you should not overdo it with watering, the soil under the radish should “breathe”. In rainy weather or with excessive watering, root crops can crack.

To facilitate care and delay the evaporation of moisture from the soil in hot weather, radish beds are covered with non-woven material (spunbond) or mulched with compost or peat.

WHEN TO PLANT A RADISH

Radishes are considered to be an early spring vegetable, but radishes can be planted in central Russia throughout the entire warm period - from mid-April to early September. That is, to always have on the table fresh harvest radishes, you can plant radishes immediately after the snow melts, as soon as the soil stops smearing the shovel. Sowing is carried out in small batches and repeated periodically throughout the season. The difference between radish plantings is usually 8 to 14 days. During this period, the seedlings of the previous sowing will already have one true leaf.

However, traditionally, in the open field in the middle lane, the last time radishes are sown in the spring no later than May 25, then they take a break until early August, when the radishes are planted “for autumn”. The big advantage of planting radishes late summer is the small amount cruciferous fleas , moderate temperatures, optimal daylight hours and sufficient rainfall. The first decade of September is the last time you can plant radishes in the fall.

Temporary film shelters or greenhouses help prolong the consumption of fresh radishes. In this case, radishes are sown earlier in the spring. In the greenhouse, he must have time to mature before planting tomatoes, peppers or cucumbers. In autumn, radishes can be planted under cover until mid-September. In addition to these crops, it grows well after onions and potatoes.

HOW TO GROW A RADISH

Land for crops begin to prepare in the fall. On infertile soils, before digging, make various types compost or humus, and also add mineral fertilizers along with trace elements. If it was not possible to fill the soil in the autumn, then just before sowing, a mixture of fertilizers (superphosphate, nitrate and potassium chloride) is added to it or ready-made complex fertilizer.

Sowing is most often carried out by the so-called tape method. Several rows (from 2 to 10) are placed at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other. Then they retreat by 40-60 cm and the rows are sown again. When sowing, seeds are placed at a depth of 1 to 2 cm, and the distance between them is from 3 to 4 cm. On heavy cold soils, radishes are sown on high beds.

With dense sowing, the seedlings will have to be thinned out, which can damage neighboring radish roots and reduce the yield, so it is better to immediately spread the seeds in the grooves to the desired distance. For 1 sq. m spend 1.8-2 g of radish seeds. With spring and summer planting per 1 sq. m place up to 150 plants, in the fall - 50.

Sowing is carried out in a compacted groove (not loose, so as not to bury the seeds) and only in well-moistened soil. After finishing work, it is advisable to cover the bed with a special non-woven material or greenhouse film (in cold weather). This technique speeds up seed germination and helps protect against cruciferous flea.

radish care

If the crops turned out to be thick, then they break through on the 7-8th day after the appearance of the first seedlings. Since the growing time of radishes takes from 20 to 40 days, top dressing is carried out only if there is a severe lack of nutrients. Mineral fertilizers contribute during the formation of root crops with an interval of 10 days. There are two feedings nitrogen fertilizers high in phosphorus and potassium. After that, root crops can be used for food only after 10 days.

Quite often, radishes sown in the summer, the roots are small or not formed at all, and the plants immediately begin to throw out shoots with flowers. To improve the quality of root crops, a garden bed with radishes is covered from 19:00 to 07:00 with a dark opaque material - black spunbond, cardboard boxes, burlap, boxes upholstered with thick paper.

Otherwise, radish care consists of regular watering, loosening the soil and cleaning weeds. Large root crops with a delicate taste are obtained only with a normal amount of moisture in the ground.

During the entire time of growing this crop, you should not use chemicals for pest control, the main of which are cruciferous fleas. It is better to do with preparations prepared on the basis of insecticidal plants. It could be tansy garlic or celandine. Dusting the leaves with ash or its mixture with tobacco dust helps. For better adhesion, do it with dew or after watering or rain.

The right choice also contributes to better harvest. AT last years new varieties of radish have been created that react poorly to the length of daylight hours, low or high temperatures, and are relatively resistant to flowering or cracking of fruits. For example, for crops in spring and early summer, the Zarya, Red Giant, Vygonochny Red, and Ice Icicle hybrids are best suited. And for late summer and autumn cultivation, Ruby, Rose-red with a white tip, Saks are used. Throughout the season, you can grow the varieties "French Breakfast", "Mercado", "Poker F1", "Cherry Belle", "Malaga" and others. For early spring and late autumn, cold-resistant varieties "Heat" and "Zlata" are suitable.

He's also fast. Radishes are the first vegetable to hit our table in the spring, so every summer resident tends to allocate 1-2 beds for him.

Autumn radishes are beautiful and juicy. It is tastier and better than spring. In addition, pests do not attack plants in autumn. The only drawback of autumn radishes is that there are already a lot of vegetables at the end of the season, including cruciferous root vegetables. In October, the harvesting of black and Margelan radish, daikon ends, so the radish does not cause much enthusiasm among the household.

Spring radish is a completely different matter. Hungry for the winter for vitamins, the body rejoices at any fresh greenery. For a few weeks in May, the radish becomes the queen of the table.

Planting radishes in spring

The second feature of radishes after precocity is that they belong to the group of long-day plants. This means that with a day length of more than 13 hours, the radish goes into the arrow, that is, instead of root crops, it forms generative organs - flowers and seeds. Therefore, in the height of summer, you can not grow radish roots. At this time, it is grown for seeds. In order for the plants to form root crops, plant radishes in such a way that the plants develop with a short daylight hours, that is, sow radishes in early spring or late summer.

Planting radishes in the spring in open ground begins as soon as the snow melts from the soil. In order not to waste precious spring time waiting for the ground to thaw, prepare the bed in advance, from the fall. Then, after the snow melts, it remains to decompose the seeds and sprinkle with last year's compost.

Shelters are used to obtain the earliest possible harvest. Planting radishes in a greenhouse allows you to provide your family with fresh vitamins during the period when they are most needed - in March-April.

Radishes in a greenhouse begin to sprout at a temperature of 4 degrees. This cold hardiness allows it to be grown in unheated greenhouses made of polycarbonate, sowing under conditions middle lane at the end of February.

For landing in suitable for a greenhouse not any variety. It is ideal to use varieties bred for greenhouses. These are Greenhouse and Early red. If the store does not have seeds of heifer varieties, then buy early-ripening and resistant to bolting varieties: Dawn, Heat, Saksa.

The greenhouse is put in order in March. After the top 3 cm of soil has thawed, you can start planting. Seeds are planted in two-line tapes in such a way that they can be thinned out. The distance between the lines is 8 cm, in a row 2 cm.

Only selected material should be sown in the greenhouse, so before sowing, sift the seeds through a sieve with cells with a diameter of 2 mm. Then dip them for 30 minutes in a dark purple solution of manganese - this will increase germination and reduce the likelihood of death of seedlings from fungal diseases.

Planting radishes in autumn

To get radishes in October, sow them on the twentieth of August. If there is not enough space in the garden, use the culture as a compactor. For example, sow radish seeds in a bed with young strawberries planted this year.

The distance between seeds depends on the variety. Large-fruited varieties, such as Duro, are planted after 10 centimeters, ordinary ones - after 5 centimeters.

If you want to get full-fledged, large root crops, then do not be greedy and plant seeds often. With a dense planting, the autumn radish grows small and ugly, prone to damage by pests and diseases.

The earliest spring harvest can be obtained during winter sowing, but there are some "pitfalls". If the weather conditions of winter and spring are unfavorable, then the radish sown before winter may bloom. But the weather can be good, and radish seeds are inexpensive, so why not experiment with winter sowing?

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Tulips - planting and care in the open field

The introduction of seeds into the soil before winter allows you to get the first root crops as much as 2 weeks earlier than when sown in the spring. A bed for winter sowing cook ahead of time while the weather is still warm. Dig up the soil and apply fertilizer - for every square meter half a bucket of humus or compost and one tablespoon of potassium and superphosphate. You can not make fresh manure - the radish does not tolerate it.

The fertilized and dug up soil is loosened and the surface is leveled. Furrows are cut in advance, until the ground is frozen. Seeds are sown when cold, dry weather sets in and upper layer the soil will freeze slightly. This usually happens in November.

Dry seeds are laid out in prepared grooves, leaving a distance of 4 cm between them, then sprinkled with dry earth and compacted. It often happens that summer residents do not have time to sow vegetables before winter, because the snow that has fallen prevents them. To prevent this from happening, immediately cover the prepared bed with a film or covering material. If snow falls, then simply remove the film, and the grooves will be in full view.

Growing radishes outdoors

Growing radishes outdoors is not difficult. The main thing - do not plant in the shade, where the plants will hurt, stretch and suffer from pests. At the same time, you can not wait for the harvest, despite the implementation of all the rules of agricultural technology.

Weed plantings regularly, and if necessary, thin out, pulling out first of all root crops that are already suitable for food. There is no need to feed the plants, they will have enough fertilizers applied during planting.

The main condition for growing radishes outdoors is to keep the soil moist. If you want really tasty, sweet and juicy radishes, don't forget to water them. Sometimes, in particularly hot weather, radish beds have to be watered twice a day and this does not harm the plant.

With insufficient watering, the taste of root crops will be sharp, bitter, and they themselves will be small and ugly.

Growing radishes in protected ground

When growing radishes in a greenhouse, observe the correct temperature regime. Before germination, the optimum air temperature is 16-18 o C. After germination, the temperature should drop so that the plants do not stretch. At this stage, it is enough to maintain 12 ° C in the greenhouse.

A week after germination, a root crop forms in the radish. It can also form at 12 o C, but if the building is warmer, the process will go faster - therefore, if possible, the temperature is brought to 20 o C. At night, it should drop to 10 o C.

When seedlings appear, the radish is thinned out, leaving 3 cm gaps between plants. Distance lets take the leaves horizontal position, which reduces the likelihood of shooting. The soil in the greenhouse should be slightly damp.

It is worth considering in detail the cultivation of radishes in the winter on the windowsill, as it is more difficult process than growing in a greenhouse.

Growing radishes on a windowsill

When growing on a windowsill, create a plant the necessary conditions. It is more difficult to provide the desired temperature and lighting. The room is too hot and dark for the plants. They stretch, root crops become tasteless.

The task is made easier if the house has a cool non-residential premises with big windows, For example, covered veranda or loggia. In such rooms, radishes will grow well on the windowsill if the temperature is in the range of 8-18 ° C. At night, the temperature should be lower than during the day.

Even in cool rooms in the first half of winter, the radish on the windowsill has to be illuminated, otherwise it will stretch. For illumination, phytolamps or LEDs are used. It is better to connect the lamps to the network through a time relay - a simple and inexpensive device that allows you to automate the operation of electrical appliances.

When choosing a backlight mode, remember that radishes are long-day vegetables. Lighting should not lengthen daylight hours, but increase the intensity of natural light.