Pear: planting and care. Late pear varieties

Lucky people value those crops that are easier to grow. This is normal and understandable. Only here there are such exceptions when simplicity is detrimental to taste: Do not believe? Then read about pears.

Speaking about this culture, you must first remember that it has a rather strong relationship between frost resistance and the taste of fruits: what better tree resists cold (which means the easier it is to grow), the less sweet the crop will be. Therefore, gardeners call most of the pears grown in our gardens compote, in the sense that you can eat with syrup from a jar, but in fresh do not want. These are mainly the Tema and Polya varieties, they grow in standard form and easily give bountiful harvest. If you want better-tasting pears, you will need considerable effort even to grow modern zoned varieties. This is especially true for areas with unstable climate. But all difficulties can be successfully overcome if only a few rules are strictly followed.

It is better to buy pear seedlings with a closed root system, since their roots are pivotal, and few suction hairs remain on them when dug up in nurseries. Aboveground part I always prune seedlings significantly so that it matches the volume of preserved roots. More than once in our "Dacha" gardeners asked the same question: why do the leaves of a young pear turn black in summer? Most often, this just happens due to the fact that the tap root cannot cope with the nutrition of new growing leaves, and even with good care and watering. Especially such blackening is manifested in the heat in young plants that have not yet entered fruiting. In such cases, it is desirable to shade the pear, water it regularly, but the effect may be insufficient. But if nothing is done at all, then everything will end with poor ripening of the shoots and damage to them by frost in winter, followed by the death of the branches or the entire plant.

2. "Electrowatering"

Pear can develop well only on acidic and slightly acidic soils. In my country house, the soil is slightly alkaline (the main weed growing in my garden is bindweed, this confirms). Therefore, in addition to the usual phosphorus and potash fertilizers, as well as organic matter, when planting, I always additionally add a “long-playing” oxidizing agent - sulfur (half a kilo, and sometimes a whole kilogram) to the planting hole.

And every spring I spend “electric” watering: I dilute 1 tbsp. l. sulfuric acid for batteries and pour under every tree.

I do not add ash and alkaline fertilizers under the pear. But in the spring I sprinkle 50-60 g of ammonium nitrate into the irrigation groove, which, together with water will leave to the roots. In autumn potash and phosphate fertilizers I bring it into the pits made with a crowbar in wet soil to a depth of 30-40 cm - also within the irrigation groove.

3. Green-blue whitewash

In a slate form, like an apple tree, it is difficult, so I make a slate-bush or standard formation, but with growth limitation. To reduce damage to the trunks in winter, be sure to whiten them and the main branches in late autumn. I make a mixture of lime in a bucket, blue vitriol, wood glue, birch tar (to repel rodents), red powder hot pepper(from aphids) and add an ampoule of any insecticide that came to hand in the store to a bucket. I breed everything hot water and I get a green-blue creamy liquid that remains on the tree for a whole year and protects against pests and diseases. I wrap the whitewashed plant in several layers with non-woven covering material and tie it with twine. On the north side of the tree, I install inverted empty barrels from under the water so that there is protection from the frosty wind and for snow retention.

4. Cross pollination

A pear blossoms before an apple tree, so there is a high probability that its color will fall under return frosts. In addition, there are still few insect pollinators at this time, so I try to spray the flowers with preparations for fruit set or just a solution of honey. I have long been convinced that for good fruiting it is necessary to have at least 2-3 pear trees in the garden for cross-pollination.

I do pruning of damaged branches in the summer, when it is already clearly visible which of them are not viable. Here we must always remember that the more wood a tree has, the stronger the ability to withstand various adverse factors.

5. Moisture heavenly and earthly

Watering pear requires significant. This should be immediately taken into account by those gardeners who live in regions where there is not enough natural rainfall. We have here steppe zone, it is clear that there is tension with the "heavenly" moisture, so in hot weather I try to spray and refresh even the branches. In my opinion, the beginning of pear fruiting coincides with the period when its root reaches the aquifer of the soil (in my country house it is at a depth of 1.5-2 m).

In other words, the tree begins to supply itself well with moisture only in the 5-7th year, and it is not worth waiting for fruits before this time.

If the plant began to bear fruit, then in general its resistance to adverse factors increases, and until that time only constant care for it gives a chance for its growth and obtaining tasty fruits in the future.

At least twice a month, wetting the soil by 50-70 cm. There is a simple proportion to determine required amount water. If we pour 1 bucket per 1 sq. m, then we wet the soil by 10 cm, and in a day all the moisture will evaporate. If we pour 2 buckets per 1 sq. m, the soil will get wet already by 20 cm, and the moisture will evaporate in two days. What happens? To reach the “root-inhabited” layer of soil, a pear needs at least 5-7 buckets per 1 sq. m near the trunk circle. Naturally, water must be poured into the irrigation groove, and not on a flat surface.

6. Protective rye

To loosen the soil, I sow rye under a pear tree in July. By October, it grows well, I mow it and leave it here as mulch, and at the same time to warm the roots for the winter.

The dying roots of cereals themselves loosen the earth and create a favorable air regime in the soil.

There are summer pear varieties Krasulya, autumn pear Lemon and three winter trees: Myth, Krasnobokaya and Dekabrinka. The first bears fruit annually, and the rest are more picky, they please me with a harvest irregularly. Basically, their fruits are in the lower part of the crown. I also had a very tasty August pear, but, unfortunately, I could not cope with its cultivation. Every year it froze a lot, and, despite all my tricks, I did not wait for fruiting, and I had to remove it.

Sergei Vladimirovich Mamontov

Greetings, dear readers of my blog!

My story today is about how grow a pear in the garden area.

Do it in our climate zone the middle lane is much more difficult than, for example, growing an apple tree, because the pear is more thermophilic and grows better in more southern regions.

But at correct selection varieties (see) and proper care grow a pear nevertheless it is possible and in our northern zones.

A pear is much more durable than an apple tree; it begins to bear fruit 5-7 years after planting.

Planting and caring for a pear

The place for landing should be chosen even, dry, the most illuminated. In low places and where they fit high ground water, you can not plant a pear. In such places, it freezes and, as a rule, dies. The pear grows well and bears fruit only on fertile, nutritious soils.

You can plant a pear in spring and autumn, the main thing is that it should be planted immediately on permanent place. This plant does not tolerate transplantation, especially over the age of 3 years. For normal pollination, be sure to plant 2 - 3 varieties of pears.

Preparing a pit for planting:

The pit needs a deep one, about 1 - 1.2 meters deep. This is due to the fact that root system pear penetrates quite deeply into the soil. The diameter of the pit is 0.8 meters.

In the pit you need to lay 2.5 - 3 buckets of humus, 2 buckets of coarse sand, from mineral fertilizers you need to add 3 tablespoons of potassium sulfate and 1 cup of superphosphate. All these components must be mixed with the soil that you took out of the hole when digging. After that, you need to dilute 2 glasses of lime - fluffs or dolomite flour in 10 liters of water and pour this mortar into the pit. Now it remains to pour 2 more buckets of water into the pit and leave the pit for a week. After that, you can start landing.

Landing:

First you need to drive a stake into the center of the pit so that it rises 0.5 meters above the soil surface. Next, pour our prepared soil into the pit, so that a mound is formed, with the top in the center of the pit. Now we put the seedling on a mound, spread the roots evenly over the mound and cover it with ordinary soil (without fertilizer) on top. The root neck should be 5-6 centimeters above the soil level. It is necessary to shake the seedling several times when planting. This is done in order to fill all the voids between the soil and the roots. After that, the seedling must be carefully trampled down, while placing the toe to the stem of the seedling, with great effort on the heel. It remains to water and pour a small layer of dry humus mulch to delay the evaporation of moisture.

Pear care:

When caring for a pear, the same methods are used as when caring for apple trees (See). This is watering, disease and pest control, fertilizing (See). Although there are some differences. For example, young pears in winter need to be more insulated with snow, as they are more susceptible to freezing than young apple trees.

Crown shaping:

The crown of the majority famous varieties pears are formed naturally, so significant pruning is not necessary. In case of freezing, many top shoots appear on skeletal branches. They grow vertically. At the same time, some of them must be cut into a ring, and some should not be touched and left as a continuation of the skeletal, as well as semi-skeletal branches. These tops must be given horizontal position otherwise they will not bear fruit.
Watch a video from Alina Rabushko's studio about how. how to plant a fruit tree

For today it's all about how grow a pear on the personal plot. See you, friends!

It is not too difficult to grow abundantly fruitful in the country or in the garden. It is enough to choose the right variety, as well as in optimal timing plant pear seedlings in a previously prepared area. It is also allowed to grow fruit crop through self-propagation of pears.

Dates and landing scheme

Pear planting should be carried out on a pre-selected and prepared site. It is best to plant a fruit crop on soils that are light in texture, represented by loam or sandy loam. The soil should be loose and permeable to air and moisture. The planting pattern and distance between plants must take into account the rules and meet all the parameters of the equipment used in the care of fruit plantations and harvesting.

During autumn planting you need to remember that the trees must have time to take root and take root well before the onset of frost. In spring, it is recommended to plant a fruit crop around April, even before the buds actively bloom on the plant. As a rule, the spring planting option is practiced in regions with favorable soil and climatic conditions. Pear seedlings are recommended to be planted next to the building, on the south, southwest or southeast side. Large pears must be planted at a considerable distance from each other.

A standard pear tree feeding area in home gardening can be 6 x 3 m; 6 x 2 m; 5 x 3 m; 5 x 2 m; 4 x 2 m. When digging a site, compost or peat is introduced into soddy-podzolic soils, as well as superphosphate, potassium chloride and ground limestone or dolomite. In areas represented by sandy and sandy soils, clay soil and humus.

Pear: variety selection (video)

After the landing site is planned, it is necessary to start digging landing pit:

• standard width landing pits should be a meter at a depth of 0.6-0.7 m;
• on bulk soil mounds, the root system of the plant should be installed and carefully distributed evenly over the planting pit;
• after planting, the root system is covered with fertile soil, after which abundant watering of the plant is carried out.

Depending on the region in which cultivation is planned, planting dates may vary. best time for planting pear seedlings in the central regions of our country is spring. In warmer regions, planting can be done both in spring and autumn.

Pear propagation methods

The fruit crop can be propagated by seeds or vegetatively, including the use of buds, shoot parts and root shoots. seed propagation used when necessary to grow a stock or breed new variety.

When growing cultivars grafting is used to bud buds or buds and shoots on a plant obtained from seeds. It is allowed to use parts of the shoot or cuttings for grafting into the crown of a pear tree or other species compatible with pears. In the central and northwestern regions, the rootstock should be a wild forest pear seedling, or a local semi-cultivated pear form.

Reproduction by seeds

Reproduction of a pear from a seed is a rather time-consuming and lengthy process. Agrotechnics of cultivation fruit tree from seeds at home the following:

• in autumn or winter period it is necessary to cut a ripe pear and place the extracted bones in a container with warm water;
• washed seeds must be laid out on a paper towel to dry;
• fill a plastic bag with a moistened soil mixture based on peat or sphagnum moss;
• plant seeds with a depth of 10 cm, then tie a bag and place it in the vegetable drawer of the refrigerator;
• periodically it is required to check the moisture indicators and moisten the soil substrate in plastic bag;
• after three months, the pear seeds extracted from the bag must be soaked for a couple of days in warm water;
• after soaking, the seeds are sown in flower pots that are three-quarters full ready ground for growing seedlings.

Plant grown and strengthened pear seedlings in a permanent place in open ground preferably in late August or early September. A large number of planting material, depending on the varietal characteristics, you need to plant with a distance of seven to ten meters from each other. When planting in autumn, it is important to protect the plant from rodents, freezing and drying. In Siberia and the Urals, as well as regions belonging to the zone of risky farming, it is preferable to plant in spring period.

How to plant a pear (video)

Growing seedlings

One-year-old and two-year-old pear seedlings take root most easily. Before planting in a permanent place, it is necessary to clean and sharp garden tool cut off all damaged parts of the root system from seedlings to healthy tissues. The more healthy roots, the faster the plant takes root in a new place and more actively forms a vegetative mass.

When planting, the roots of a pear seedling must be placed over the entire surface of a nutrient soil cushion at the base of the planting hole. The root system needs to be straightened, and the root neck should be placed five centimeters above the soil surface. It is very important to ensure that there are no voids between the roots of the planted seedling, and the entire area of ​​the planting hole with roots was filled with soil. For watering, about two buckets are spent on each plant. warm water. It is advisable to fix the stem part of the pear seedling on a support peg, which will allow you to correctly direct the growth of the plant.

Care rules

look after fruit plant should be correct at all stages of growth and development of fruit crops. In the first years after planting, the plant for good growth and the formation of a strong tree crown, you need to provide competent care:

• in the early years, nitrogen nutrition is very important for the plant, therefore, in trunk circle young tree after loosening, you need to make ammonium nitrate and carry out mulching with peat and humus;
• pear plantations have increased requirements for potash fertilizers, so the dose potash fertilizer should be increased by about 20%;
• in the fifth year, phosphate fertilizers are applied every three years, and potash fertilizers are carried out every other year;
• all top dressing is carried out with mandatory watering with a consumption of four buckets of water for each plant;
• the first pruning of young stands is usually done in the spring after planting by cutting a quarter of the central conductor and selected skeletal branches;
• from the third year after planting in a permanent place, a moderate shortening of annual increments is carried out;
• thinning and rejuvenating pruning must be done from the age of fifteen.

How to grow a pear in the middle lane (video)

The best varieties pears for cultivation in the Moscow region and Central region, are "Chizhovskaya", "Lada", "Cathedral", "In Memory of Zhegalov", "Smart Efimova", "Moskvichka" and "Veles". In the Central Black Earth region, varieties "Avgustovskaya dew", "Skorospelka from Michurinsk", "Severyanka red-cheeked", "Allegro" and "Feeria" grow well. For cultivation in cold regions, it is recommended to give preference to the varieties "Lida", "Theme", "Dibrovskaya", "Beta" and "Arabka". At proper care the pear tree bears fruit abundantly and is very stable over the years.

Seed pear: growing rules

Pear is grown from seed long time subject to certain conditions. This procedure is used only in case of a strong desire to plant a tree with your own hands.

Description of culture

Pear includes a large number of subspecies and hybrids. The fruits have a pleasant taste and a set of useful qualities. They are due to the rich chemical composition. You can grow a tree in any soil. Fruits vary in shape and color depending on the variety. According to the structure, rounded and oblong pears are distinguished. The color scheme ranges from light green to bright yellow, the barrel of the fruit is often decorated with shades of red.

Source: Depositphotos

Seed pear is grown as an ornamental plant

By palatability pears secrete the following types:

• • dessert. The taste is sweet high quality harvest. A large percentage of cultivated trees bear such fruits;

• • canteens. Sweet taste. Used for preservation in an unripe form;

• • economic. Unsuitable for fresh consumption due to astringency;

• • cider. Not used in any form.

The variety of species is great. fruit seedlings can be purchased in specialized stores.

How to grow a pear from a seed

Less common is the cultivation of a tree as houseplant. Often such a culture has only a decorative function. To grow a fruit tree, grafting into the crown is required.

To plant a pear in a pot, you need to follow the following rules:

• • prepare the bone. The seed removed from the fruit must be dried. Then rinse and place on prepared moistened gauze. Then the gauze cloth is covered with glass to create a greenhouse effect. The temperature is kept around +22...+23 °С. After half a month, the first root appears;

• • prepare the pot for planting. For this, a small container with a diameter of up to 12 cm is taken. The bottom is covered with a layer of drainage, which is covered with a layer of sand. Humus is poured over the sand. Its thickness must be at least 5 cm - a seed is placed at such a depth;

• • care. Immediately after planting, abundant watering is carried out. It is recommended to use a warm liquid, and direct the jet to the place where the bone is located. The pot is covered with a film for a month. At the same time, regular watering is done;

• • plant cultivation. When a sprout has appeared, you need to carefully monitor its comfort. A sunny room and no drafts are required. dry land and cold temperature air are detrimental to pears. The root system should be in the shade, and the grown branches should be in the sun.

Proper care will result in small ornamental pears if not vaccinated.

Growing a plant from seed is a fascinating process. Patience and compliance with the rules will allow you to decorate the room with a homemade pear.

Sometimes such a luxurious pear fruit falls into your hands that it remains to be regretted that the same variety does not grow in your garden. It is possible to buy seedlings in a nursery, but it is not always clear which variety to ask for. However, you should not get upset too much: if you got a pear fruit that impressed you, you can grow a fruit-bearing tree - from seeds.

True, there is no guarantee that trees will grow from seeds that will give exactly the fruits you like. A tree grown from seeds does not inherit maternal characteristics, so you can get something else. But, you might get lucky. And if the fruits of the pears grown by you are not satisfied, some other variety can be grafted into their crowns. The trees already exist!

Of course, you will have to spend a lot of time growing pears from seeds. Get ready for it to be several months before the seeds develop into full-fledged seedlings that can be planted in the garden. But one fruit will give you several seedlings, and this will be a great reward for your patience.

1. late autumn or cut a ripe pear in winter sharp knife. Remove the #seeds from the fruit and place them in a small bowl. Add hot water(not boiling water) to rinse the seeds. Place the seeds on paper towels or paper towels to dry.

2. Fill a plastic bag with wet peat (you can use sphagnum moss).

3. Plant the pear seeds to a depth of about 10-12 cm and tie off the bag. Place it in the refrigerator - in the vegetable section. There he should lie down for up to three months, or until the frosts end. Periodically check if the peat/moss is damp. It shouldn't be dry, but it shouldn't be wet either.

4. Remove the bag from the refrigerator, dig out the seeds. This should be done at a time when a constant temperature of at least +5 0C is already established on the street.

5. Soak the seeds in a bowl with warm water, soak for two days to help soften their hard outer skin.

6. Pear seeds can be planted either in ordinary flower pots or in biodegradable #peat_pots set in a plastic tray. The latter, of course, is more convenient and safer for plants, since the root system of a pear is highly branched.

7. Fill 3/4 pots with soil. You can use either soil from the garden, or soil purchased for flowers / seedlings.

8. Spread the seeds on the surface of the earth and sprinkle with sand or a layer of soil 1-1.5 cm. Water your crops and cover the pots with foil. Here we do everything in the same way as when sowing #seeds_for_seedlings.

9. Place the pots indoors in a warm place, out of direct sun.

10. Keep the soil moist until the seeds germinate. Germination will depend on the pear variety.

11. Remove film when pear seeds emerge above soil surface in each pot.

12. Move containers with seedlings to a #greenhouse or #greenhouse. The sun in them should be enough.

13. Continue to moisten the soil, feed the seedlings with liquid complete #mineral_fertilizer.

14. Plant grown, strengthened pear seedlings in open ground in early September. By that time, their “growth” may be 25-30 cm. Choose a site for planting that is not waterlogged, sunny.

15. You can leave pear seedlings from seeds in the greenhouse until spring to plant in the heat.

16. Pour peat, compost into the hole before planting - the earth should not only be fertilized, but also loose.

17. If you have several seedlings, plant them at a distance of at least 7-10 m from each other.