How to insulate an adobe house. The truth about the energy efficiency of adobe houses Olga, Salsk, Rostov Region

In order to protect from rain, houses made of wood or adobe (clay with chopped straw) are often sheathed with boards that rot intensively. And plastering a wall containing organic matter is not only useless, but also harmful. The coating cracks, the wall stops "breathing" and a fungus appears.

A more reliable solution is the use of modern plastic lining (PV), plus competent wall ventilation. You can even lay a heater.

I give a diagram of such a design (Fig. 1). Air through the ventilation hatch penetrates into the space between the skin and the wall (or insulation), rises up and exits near the roof. It is important that the ventilation gap is at least 1-2 cm.

From above, we cover it with a fiberglass facade plaster mesh and nail it with plastic washers (we cut it from 4 × 4 cm flasks). We put a copper wire under the washers, tying the canvas.

We nail the plaster shingles in the center. Caring for the wall is very simple: in the spring we open the hatches so that it dries properly, and close it for the winter.

Attention!

Styrofoam, pressed glass wool plates and mineral wool on aluminum foil cannot be used for insulation - these are airtight coatings.

Wall decoration of an adobe house and ventilation device: drawings

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Huge marketing budgets for the promotion of heaters Rockwool (Rockwool), URSA (Ursa), Isover (Isover, Isover), Tehnonikol (TechnoNIKOL), Penoplex (Penopeks, Penoplex), Knauf (Knauf), Isoroc (Isorok, Izorok), Isolon (Isolon , Izolon), Energoflex (Energoflex) very often interfere with making the right decision. It's no secret that many reviews on forums and blogs appear thanks to marketers. It is profitable for representatives of companies to sell their product, they spend a lot of effort and money on it, so many thermal insulation materials remain in the shadows. But among the heaters that are not promoted with the help of promotional materials, there are real pearls. You can learn about them from rare materials, such as Sergey Polupanov's video channel from Tomsk.

My notes on modern heaters based on Polupanov's video.

Sawdust
They shrink, they need to be poured (if you plan sawdust as a heater on the roof). They do not have refractory properties, so sawdust and ash used to interfere, and a sand or clay castle was made on top, which completely block the spread of fire.

Ecowool
Cellulose insulation: paper, including newsprint. Cardboard is added, but not more than 10%. Boron salts are added for flame retardancy.
If you remove the source of the flame, it will smolder for 5-6 hours. After a fire, you need to remove a piece of the wall, because. smolders well.
Manufacturers save raw materials, use more air.
It is better to lay only by hand, only a good seal. Shows how to avoid cold bridges. If blown out, the shrinkage will be even greater.
If cardboard is added instead of paper, then the color is more brownish. At the same time, the weight increases, and they are sold by the kilogram. The thermal properties are significantly reduced in this case.
Ecowool has environmental properties, unless, of course, we close our eyes to the boron content (somewhere around 15 percent or something), etc.
Appeared in Europe as a result of recycling. Therefore, it is not worth placing hopes on it for economic feasibility.

Mineral wool insulation (mineral, basalt wool)
They serve only 10-15 years, after which they become damp, they need to be changed. Under ideal conditions, by factory standards, the service life is 25-35 years.

99% of houses are now insulated with mineral wool insulation, such as TechnoNIKOL P75. A reinforced concrete frame is being built, then filled with foam blocks or Sibit blocks, suppose. Then outside 20 cm of mineral wool (basalt, stone, ...) Then everything is tightened with wind protection, and then some kind of ceramic tile.
In 15 years, each owner of such a house will pay extra for heat loss in such a house. Imagine removing tiles and replacing insulation in a 17-story building. The rise in heating costs is enormous. In 15 years, heating costs will be enormous. It turns out that the developer is selling a house that obviously uses low-quality materials, because of which you will have to spend money in the future.

The manufacturer recommends the use of wind and steam protection. porous and fibrous material has the property of accumulating liquid in its structure, so it must be protected. It is humid in our house, plus the air moves from the high pressure area to the low pressure area. Thus, the air tries to break out of the house into the street, taking it with it into the water in a vaporous state. In this case, the air tries to break through the walls and ceiling. It is unlikely to pass through the floors, there may already be enough moisture there, especially if the underground space is poorly ventilated. Therefore, to protect against steam, everything is tightened with a film. At the same time, they do not talk about the service life of small holes in the film. And after 10 years, these holes can become clogged with small fibers of mineral wool, which will begin to crumble. The fibers are glued together with formaldehyde and other resins. The resin breaks down over time, the fibers delaminate. Outside, a windscreen is used to prevent the fibers from loosening and weathering. When cotton wool is moistened by 10-15%, the thermal properties are lost by 30%. When the small holes in the film get clogged, you get a regular stretched plastic film that prevents steam from escaping, the steam accumulates, and additional ventilation is required. The windscreen is on the outside and therefore subject to freeze/thaw cycles. How long she will live is unknown.
The usual plastic film on greenhouses is destroyed due to temperature changes (closer to autumn, when sub-zero temperatures begin). Therefore, we can lose the windproof structure before the insulation loses its properties. Plus, the vapor barrier is installed incorrectly.
Has no damping properties. If you try to stuff 60 cm of cotton into 58 cm, then it will bend.
This type of insulation has too many disadvantages.

Mineral (basalt) wool is obtained from slag production waste, as well as cullet. There are plenty of raw materials, so these types of heaters are widely used.

Mineral wool was banned from being produced in Europe, because the fibers enter the lungs, stay there, stick with needles and are not excreted. They made a chemical additive that allows dissolving mineral wool particles in the lungs within 40 days. And if you live permanently in such a house? You will get any infection in the lungs, which can lead to illness, plus you will itch. Even if you close the film on both sides, this infection will still penetrate. This happens through the vents. Plus, if the house is frame or wooden, then when the door slams, a vacuum occurs.
In Europe, they have adopted the standard that the fibers must completely decompose in 40 days.

The refractory properties of basalt wool - it burns 20 cm in 17 minutes (there is a video of the refractory properties of heaters on the Polupanov channel). Vata burns out, oxygen comes in, the building starts to burn even more.

From a density of 75 kg / m3, basalt fiber or glass fiber starts to work as a heater. Basalt fiber is more efficient. There are basalt fibers, fiberglass and combinations. The finer and longer the fibers, the less caustic and pleasant to use, plus a more coherent structure.
At 17-20 kg/m3, convection starts in the wool layer.

Normal basalt fiber may be more profitable to find from suppliers rather than building materials stores.
The melting point of basalt is 1500 degrees. The technology for the production of small threads is not cheap.

Fiberglass is cheaper, because Glass melts at 1200 degrees.
The segment with larger and sharper fiber is now actively decreasing.

Basalt fiber has a very large surface area, especially superfine fiber. Moisture should not linger there, otherwise it begins to live there, the material begins to compact, and water conducts heat well. Aerated concrete filled with water conducts heat very well.

The economic feasibility of insulation should be calculated. You need to understand how much money you will spend and how much you will save.

If you invest 300 thousand in mineral wool, then it, having stood for 25 years, will cost you 12 thousand a year. Is it worth it? It may be better to use another option, including worse insulation.

Of course, foam glass will stand for a hundred years. And you can insulate 60 cm of straw.

Heat transfer:

• thermal conductivity (heat is transferred from hot to cold),


• convection,


• radiation.

If large double-glazed windows or large walls with thermal transparency for infrared radiation, then we will lose heat. Properly placed vapor barrier (foil, at a distance) and other methods help to reflect heat inward.

Thermal insulation materials greatly reduce the transfer of heat by convection.
The thermal insulation material must have a low coefficient of thermal conductivity.

Mineral wool absorbs water very well, while thermal conductivity deteriorates greatly.

The fibers are still fragile. Hold in your hands, you may experience a cough after working with it.

Basalt wool TechnoNIKOL P-75 has a density of 50 kg / m3 (and not 75), P-125 - 80 kg / m3 (and not 125). These materials were of a fairly high quality. Later, TechnoNIKOL released a cheaper analogue with less basalt and lower density. Gradually, cheaper material began to displace better and more expensive. As a result, the company decided to curtail the production of more expensive and high-quality insulation.

Be sure to pay attention to the density of the heat-insulating material indicated in the passport!
Sausage-type materials sold in rolls packed in polyethylene film often have a density of no more than 15 kg/m3. When you spin the roll, it gains height. In less dense mineral wools, the vacuum between the fibers is greater, so the air, due to convection, moves more easily from cold to warm, transferring heat.

It is not necessary to catch convective flows. If you open a window or door, then cold air will quickly make its way into the room. But if the walls are made of heat-intensive material. Then it stores heat during heating; if you close the windows and doors after ventilation, then the heat-intensive material will give off heat to the air, heating the premises. Heat-intensive materials have a large mass.

Moss
Available. Eco-friendly. Lives longer than a bar on which moss is laid. 7 magic antiseptics, different in structure (of which you can make dressings for wounds, dressings that draw out pus ...) No bikarasiki start up in it. In dry material, no one starts. If you put wet moss, it will still dry quickly, even in a confined space. Moss is used as a material for storing vegetables. It has shock absorption properties. It's a pleasure to work with the material. Disadvantage: Does not have refractory properties. From the inside, ordinary plaster on shingles is required, and from the outside it can be sheathed with flat slate. You don't have to worry about asbestos. Russian chrysotile asbestos does not have such a needle structure as foreign amphibole asbestos.

Peat
Peatlands have self-ignition properties. Peat is mixed with cement and aluminum chips. It turns out a kind of porous sibit. Such a thermal screed in many villages was previously used on ceilings and, it seems, on the floor. The 100 year old building was demolished. The floor beams were not damaged at all. Since there is no oxygen in peat, it perfectly preserves various materials (in fact, it mummifies). If you mix it with some kind of composition or take vermiculite, which has good refractory properties and works well with a liquid, then you can conduct an experiment, how it all goes down.

Vermiculite and sawdust will definitely work optimally: the fire does not spread (promises to test with a blowtorch), the price is halved.

Roof fires can be caused by a chimney. Especially if, as recently, two galvanized pipes with mineral wool inside are used. Galvanizing quickly burns out, it is designed for not very frequent use. When burned out, the mineral wool ignites and burns out, and then the outer cladding. A spark can get into the under-roof space. A lot of fires happen because of modern sandwiches.
Good sandwich: A good thick-walled pipe is taken (for example, 150 mm), with a galvanized metal casing on the outside. The pipe is placed at the base of the boiler. A space of 5 mm is filled with a mixture of vermiculite with liquid glass, carefully compacted. Even if the pipe burns out, the vermiculite will work as guides.

Styrofoam classical, polyfoam with additives, extruded polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam (penoplex), technoplex.
(EPS, XPS, XPS), if I'm not mistaken, is produced in the same way, only obtained by extrusion (the material is squeezed out through a nozzle), a high-density composite material is obtained. There are almost no voids between cells.

When the insulation boom began, 90% of houses in Europe were insulated. Konrad Fischer from Germany says that after being insulated with vapor-tight insulation, such as polystyrene foam, foam plastic (it will be cheaper than a crate for mineral wool, and then an exterior finish). Therefore, the brickwork is insulated and simply immured with 5-10 cm of foam. In terms of calculations, the energy efficiency of the building is improving quite well. At the same time, they often do not pay attention to the vapor transparency of the insulation.

Steam appears during breathing, evaporation from the body, bathing, cooking, ... Therefore, high humidity appears in the apartment. With poor ventilation or its absence, we get a humid space, mold and fungi may appear.

When using vapor-opaque insulation over standard houses using 1-2 cm of plaster on the outside, you get a liquid lock in the building. The liquid moves outward, rests against the foam. The foam is glued to the mounting foam so that there are no air gaps, plus it is fixed with mounting anchors. After 3-4 years, homeowners in most cases found that the liquid had accumulated in such an amount that the plaster inside began to become covered with mold. Fungi and mold are always present, but actively multiply due to the presence of moisture. As a result, the wallpaper inside began to fall off, because the moisture simply had nowhere to go. Solution: Remove the insulation and finishing material, then dry the building contour with infrared heaters, using convection, ... When the walls inside the house are heated, the liquid begins to be displaced, and since there is no barrier outside, it actively evaporates, fungi and mold disappear. There is no point in using chemicals instead of this method.
Konrad Fischer studied the materials well. He restores museums, the structure of buildings,...
Fire-resistant properties at foam plastics are absent. Flame retardants are added to them so that the flame does not spread.

Penoplex (penoplex), extruded polystyrene foam (extrusive polystyrene foam, EPS, EPS, XPS) has refractory properties K1, K4, but also melts over 60-80 degrees, loses its structure and begins to collapse. The durability of flame retardants is also questionable. Extruded polystyrene foam (but not polystyrene) can and is recommended to insulate only foundations, because. the material has closed pores and does not absorb liquid. When insulating a blind area or foundation, the approximate service life is 50 years. The compressive coefficient is good; when heaving or moving soils, it retains its strength. It is not recommended to insulate walls with polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene, since it is flammable and not vapor-transparent. Rodents like to start up in foam plastic, dig holes in it. Previously, the foam was glued together with formaldehyde resins, therefore, it exudes formaldehyde throughout its operation. Now they are glued supposedly with the help of high temperature steam (there is such an advertisement).

The quality and evenness of the sheets of technoplex (extrusive polystyrene foam) is much better than that of foam. Penoplex is rather unsuccessful for assembling frame walls and for other planes. Technoplex for the elimination of cold bridges, insulation of non-residential (!) Premises is much better suited than foam.

Vermiculite
Raw materials began to be mined in the 60s
Different composition, different impurities
In Russia, it is often idle because the equipment is old
Raw materials from Uzbekistan have unique properties

Produced from mountain mica when heated. When heated, it expands due to the presence of liquid, so it turns out, if you look closely, in the form of an accordion. The material height increases from 7 to 10 times. Produced at temperature without binders. The destruction temperature is about 1300 degrees, while it turns into a fragile vitreous structure, it can be compressed, structural properties are lost. But it does not ignite, does not support combustion. Rodents do not like him, they do not start. This material absorbs the smell well, so the rodents cannot leave a trace. The material is loose, so it is difficult for a rodent to stay on the surface. Vermiculite poured into the burrows of rodents causes them to flee. Birds do not take this material away. They prefer fibrous materials for construction. The material is dry, so pathogens (as in wood) do not start in it. If the wood borders on vermiculite, then it is protected from the occurrence of moldy lesions. Vermiculite works as a preservative. If there is excess moisture, the material takes it. There was a case that tore off part of the roof, flooded with water in the spring. The vermiculite has absorbed the liquid. After the restoration of the roof, it was completely dry at a thickness of 20 cm.
In addition to floors, it can be poured into the floor or frame structures. If the plywood is in the frame, then the vermiculite is simply poured and compacted. When mixing with fine chips 1:1, it can be mixed directly on the building (hand mixer, drill, perforator) in the ceiling. Mixed until smooth.
Chips and sawdust can burn and absorb moisture. But vermiculite absorbs moisture, evens out the humidity regime, and in about a month the sawdust / shavings will become dry. There will be no debate. Fungi and mold may appear. Sawdust has good thermal insulation properties (0.08), vermiculite (0.05-0.06).
Vermiculite when moistened by 15% does not lose its thermal properties.
Polupanov promises to check the refractory properties with a blowtorch.

In an agricultural environment, vermiculite can also be used. When adding 2-4 handfuls to the hole with potatoes (consumption 2-4 bags / 100-200 liters per 2.5 acres). This mineral works with liquid. It works like a fertilizer if it is poured into a solution of liquid with potassium permanganate or other nutrient liquid. Vermiculite will transfer the chemical component in micro doses, so the plants will not get chemical burn. When rain hits, vermiculite holds moisture near the tuber. In drought, there is enough water. If there is a lot of rain, then on the contrary, it absorbs excess moisture into itself, giving the potatoes as much as they need.
For other plants (flowers, ...) special soils are made. Almost all flower soils sold in stores use vermiculite. Previously used expanded clay.
In animal husbandry, vermiculite is added to feed. For example, cows that have a large mucus. Vermiculite, as an absorbent, cleans the intestinal tract of the cow, it is less susceptible to diseases.
Smell-soaked vermiculite bags can keep them for a long time.

Warm plaster has pores in its structure. Vermiculite performs this function. Now he will give it for examination and see what is better 30%, 40%, ... for external and internal operation. A certain result will be obtained in terms of thermal conductivity, tensile strength and brittleness, and elasticity.

A quality house in Siberia made of wood should be at least 20-25 cm thick. Thermal conductivity characteristics will be minimal, but tolerable. From the inside, the house is plastered on shingles, of course, when it shrinks. This gives a protective moisture leveling layer of about 3 cm. Then ... then the finishing plaster, then the wallpaper. Such a layer of plaster with the correct mode of operation of the house (settlement in a year and a half after shrinkage, and not immediately), with the correct installation of window blocks (video about special shrink boxes to avoid freezing, on the Polupanov Canal).

Vermiculite is used in warm plaster. There are ready mixes. You can use classic coarse-grained ready-made mixtures with a sandy composition, where vermiculite is added. When plastering, small pores are formed. Thermal conductivity is reduced. Compared to conventional plaster, such a 2 cm plaster can replace 5-10 cm in thermal conductivity. Such a log house provides minimal insulation plus a moisture stabilizer. Such plaster can give and take on moisture. Air with steam passes through it, moisture is removed to the outside. It turns out a vapor-transparent design.
If you instead sew up with drywall, you will get an air gap between the wall and drywall. This is a reason to get rodents there. The main mass of the wall does not warm up, since the interior of the house uses mainly convective heating, and not infrared. The air heats up the structure very slowly. Behind a layer of air gap and drywall, the wall will not warm up. Therefore, the wall will freeze more from the outside. Frost will accumulate, water will freeze. Water expands when freezing, the timber cracks even more. The structure of the house is moving. Therefore, the use of gypsum structures on external walls is not recommended.
The walls need to be heated not only in the places where window openings are installed, but also with the contour of warm pipes. Heating will be not only due to convection, but also infrared radiation.
Stretch ceiling is quickly done. But it is acceptable in apartments, but in private houses I would not recommend it. An air gap is formed. On floors, backfill from 20 cm plays the role of a heat-intensive base for heat stabilization, it accumulates heat. This pad cannot be cut off from the heat circuit.
Basically, all heaters work to protect convective flows.
Similar to warm plaster, warm floors with vermiculite are poured. Vermiculite is poured into the mixer, everything is mixed, then the screed is poured with a warm solution, aligned with the beacons. Canadians and Americans mainly use warm solutions in frame housing construction. It is not concrete that is poured, but a lighter solution.
Ceramic porous blocks are recommended for use only on a warm solution. This solution has less thermal conductivity. Outside and inside, you can also make plaster with vermiculite. To avoid heat breaks, it is leveled with a layer of plaster.
This is an environmentally friendly material. During operation, inert gases, resins are not emitted.
Foam balls are large (2-5 mm) form large pores, while rather heterogeneous. Vermiculite has a rather fine structure, these pores are tied up with an array of plaster or screed. The surface is more uniform. Such plasters are more refractory than classic ones.
Drywall 2cm layer has some refractory properties, but you need to put it in several layers (not one layer), overlapping. Plaster with vermiculite behave better. At the same time, fire resistance is relevant in wooden houses.

Vermiculite is better than many other heaters in terms of thermal conductivity. Foam glass has a slightly worse coefficient. For mineral wool, it is slightly less (at a density of about 100 kg / m3). Vermiculite, under normal conditions, gains about 10% moisture during long storage, if it is not poured with water. If you pour water on vermiculite, it will take 400% by weight, so it is used as a sorbent. Humidified from the air, it takes only 10%, but the coefficient of thermal conductivity practically does not change!

The best bulk density is on the order of 75 kg/m3.

It is very convenient to work with vermiculite, it falls asleep easily. He doesn't fly. It is convenient to use it in ceilings.

We tried to chew, but alive. But mineral wool would not dare to eat.

Finding alternatives to vermiculite is quite difficult. Of course, small granular foam glass is very interesting. It is not afraid of moisture, it does not burn in water. But if it is for sale, it is expensive. There are a lot of plans in the foam glass industry, but so far there is no real shift.

When foam glass appears, vermiculite can be used in agriculture.

Vermiculite is half the price of even mineral wool of good density.

Vermiculite laying: In mats, loose, in bags. The latter option helps when you need to firmly fix the insulation in place (using an electric stapler, self-tapping screws, ...). The material for the pouches is the same as that used in greenhouses; it is translucent.

Perlite (and comparison to vermiculite)
Perlite is a fine expanded glass. Density - 50-55 kg / m3. There are varieties and 60-100 kg / m3. With equal density, the thermal conductivity of vermiculite is slightly better than that of perlite.

It left both vermiculite and perlite above the surface of the water. A moldy film formed on perlite after 8 months. Perhaps there were some prerequisites.

Vermiculite is less dusty than perlite. If it is still possible to pour vermiculite into the walls, then I would not fall asleep perlite. Perlite will shrink and slide over time. Vermiculite in a pressed state of stress retains its shape.

Expanded clay (and comparison with vermiculite)
Expanded clay, unfortunately, is heavy. The thermal conductivity is three times higher, the granules are large. Air moves between the granules. Therefore, a much larger layer would have to be poured. Although, it would seem, a cube of expanded clay is cheaper than a cube of vermiculite.

Heat capacity modern materials are often ignored. Lightweight, including fibrous materials are used. Protection in this case occurs only from convective heat flows. The air is immobilized, so there is less heat loss. If you insulate with a light material like foam, then there will be no stabilizing properties in terms of temperature. The house will not have the properties to accumulate heat or cold. Temperature fluctuations will affect the house. If complex electronics ahead of schedule in a frame house does not work, then there will be spasmodic processes.
More heat-intensive heaters, for example, sawdust, have a mass (300-400 kg / m3), while small air pores do not allow air to quickly accelerate. If it is normal to lay ecowool, then it has approximately 85 kg / m3. Foam plastics and foam plastics do not have a significant mass, therefore they do not accumulate heat. Vermiculite from mountain mica, therefore retains heat. It is good as a drive both on ceilings and in wall cavities. It is also good when mixed 1:1 with sawdust. The properties of expanded clay are many times different from vermiculite (20 cm of vermiculite in the backfill - 1-1.5 m of expanded clay).

The box at home is often insulated with mineral wool. Facing: formerly metal square siding, now often Chinese ceramic or our ceramic tile. Less often, wet plaster is used, which often bursts, it has to be repaired.
During the construction of brick buildings, foam plastic / extruded polystyrene foam is also laid in the monolith of the wall, although this is unacceptable. Often it is laid closer to the facing brick, often with gaps. The material is vapor-opaque, the wall begins to dampen.
Old buildings - 50-70 cm of monolithic brickwork.
If the masonry is well, you want to place a heater there between the bricks, then the mineral wool lasts 10-15 years, and the brick is much longer. Disassemble the facing masonry and change the insulation? Therefore, outside they make metal siding, false timber, ...
Vermiculite can be poured into the cavity of the well masonry. The thickness of the backfill should be at least 15-20 cm. The approximate life of vermiculite is 70 years. At the same time, do not forget to reinforce the outer facing brick with the bulk of the wall. This is the perfect solution.

Structural materials that can be considered as a heater (brick, wood, concrete) will not be considered.

All of the above heaters:
Natural insulation: sawdust, moss and vermiculite.

(Update October 6, 2013)
Geokar (peat block), straw, foam glass are of low prevalence, since the place of production can be removed from the consumer. All three are environmentally friendly.

Geocar
made from peat. Peat is subdivided into upper and lower peat. Mostly used riding. Where the moss turns into a state of peat (1 mm per year) - riding.
Trillions of tons a year Russia receives peat for free. Natural wax is even obtained from peat, which is used in perfumery. There are less decomposed fractions in high-moor peat. They, in my opinion, are used in geocar. Horse peat is also used for fuel (briquetted peat). Peat is hard to come by. It is necessary to drain the swamps, to gather peat, to dry, ...
Geocar production: Peat is mixed with water, resulting in viscous properties. The fibers are small, like cement. At the same time, the solution is plastic, you can even glue something on it. The geokar also includes sawdust (usually 50% of a briquette). Pressing, drying, .... Sawdust acts as a stabilizer in terms of geometric parameters. Combustibility class - slightly combustible. Up to 5 floors were built from the geocar block.
Geocar has very good antiseptic properties, completely disinfecting the room. In the prison, they laid out a geocar inside and the incidence of tuberculosis decreased by 90%.
The heat-saving ability is good. The block is structural. Blocks 200 by 500, if I'm not mistaken, the height is approximately 5 cm. Thin blocks dry faster.
Inside, a brick house can be lined, or outside. The top must be plastered to protect from fire. Rodents generally do not perceive it, if I'm not mistaken. It can be used, in principle, in well masonry, but I have not seen this. According to the operational regime, in my opinion, it has 50 years of operation. The material is translucent. Poorly accumulates harmful impurities. The building is environmentally friendly with good side effects, such as air purification from germs and bacteria.
In terms of cost, it is quite competitive. But peat extraction is very costly. Plus, you need a lot of sawdust in production. All this can deter manufacturers from expanding their range. The equipment is offered for 20 million rubles. Technologically, everything seems to be simple, so this price seems too high. You need a good peat deposit. With state support, the material could be widely disseminated. I liked the material and love it. Safe, non-toxic, durable, completely fireproof, can be used for self-supporting structures.

The adobe construction was well described by a specialist who gave an interview on the Slavic radio Veda-Ra. There, the technological features of adobe, self-supporting adobe, adobe when using a frame were specifically mentioned.
In adobe housing construction, hay or any kind of hay is not used. Straw baled either after buckwheat, or millet or rye, I don’t remember. The peculiarity is that there should be tubules that have a vitreous hexagonal shape, which are preserved for a long time, do not rot, do not fade. It turns out a very good building material. You need to decide what adobe is made of and whether there are opportunities for its production in your area.
Straw harvesting is carried out using a baler directly on the fields during harvesting. It turns out ready-made building material. It is worth transporting it and you can insulate the under-roof space with it, you can make a self-supporting adobe out of it, ...
Cob blocks can be laid, penetrating with carbon fiber reinforcement. I don’t consider metal in construction at all in large volumes, especially looped, pin-shaped, sticking out in the wall.
I admire the desire for harmony with nature. But it is wrong to pierce an adobe house with metal fittings vertically or horizontally, to use a metal mesh for plastering.
The self-supporting structure tends to shrink. After installing the roof, shrinkage occurs, then finishing. The self-supporting frame distributes the load on the straw blocks (somewhere a bubble may come out, the height may decrease). The use of adobe in frame housing construction was optimal, in my opinion. Classic frame, double frame (for interior and exterior cladding).
There are straw knitters themselves. The price of straw is cheap, but delivery can be expensive if the distances are long.
Adobe construction has become widespread in the South of Russia, in Ukraine, in Belarus. In Siberia, I have not seen such constructive. Condensation occurs when there is a large temperature conflict. Such fluctuations are repeated during one winter from 20 to 50 times, which can lead to the dampening of the adobe. A large amount of snow also suggests a solid foundation. Our foundation is either stone and cobblestone or completely absent. We also need a high base so that the snow does not sweep.
From a commercial point of view, the market price will be ridiculous, as buyers will not appreciate. Although the cost of construction is comparable to a wooden house. Beam, frame, foam concrete in the client can cause a greater sense of reliability, durability, practicality.
The adobe has no refractory properties. It must be plastered inside and outside with clay mortars and plasters. Tests have shown that plastered straw holds fire for about two hours, if I'm not mistaken.
Many people say that such a house calms, creates good energy. Residents in such a house are very comfortable. It is an integral part of green building. The tree is some kind of violence. Previously, they cut it correctly, asked for forgiveness from the tree. Straw has a minimal death that will not upset anyone. Plus, straw continues life in your home. That's so smart.
The minimum wall thickness is 50 cm, if I'm not mistaken. Those. up to 10 sq.m. in the house we lose 10 by 10 meters. The market price is from 10 to 15 thousand rubles per square meter, so count.
A house 10 by 10 meters 3 meters high requires 24 cubic meters of vermiculite in the well masonry for the frame (the cost will be 103 thousand rubles, and about 100 thousand rubles will come out with insulation of the ceiling and floor of 20 cm with vermix (vermiwood).

Foam glass
Equipment and production, which I know, are located in Ukraine. Therefore, this insulation will be of interest to residents of Ukraine. He goes to Russia. But its cost, if I'm not mistaken, is 10-14 thousand rubles per cubic meter.
Production: Broken glass is heated to a fluid state, then the foaming process takes place. Inside are small bubble voids. Black material, porous. By properties, it is indistinguishable from ordinary glass: durable, vapor-tight, does not burn. It can be cut, adjusted, i.e. pretty good at handling. The compressive load is similar to a brick of 120th density or something, i.e. he can well hold the load on himself, you can build from it, like from a brick.
used as insulation in nuclear reactors, in all critical buildings like hotels.
It can be used in regions with high humidity and underwater. It does not absorb liquid. Two sizes: one is like a brick, the other is bigger.
Service life - more than 70-100 years.
Ideal for use in basements. As well as in penoplex (penoplex) there are no open pores.
It strongly resembles rock after a volcanic eruption. Such a heater was used in ancient times.
The vapor transparency of the building will be reduced to zero, with the exception of masonry joints. Many experts say that it can be used to insulate brick houses. But in my opinion the liquid will remain in the design.
It makes sense to build entirely of foam glass so that the liquid does not pass at all. But the market price is high.
Penoplex costs 4600 rubles per cubic meter.
Foam glass crumb (battle) is cheap. It can also be used in well masonry, since gaps form between the particles, in my opinion, steam can pass between them. In this form, no matter where else it went.
I may be mistaken as there are plenty of sources.
Thermal conductivity is worse than that of the same vermiculite. Foam glass needs twice as much.
In Ukraine (and not in Siberia) 15-20 cm for heat stabilization, I think, will be more than enough.
The product often has an industrial purpose.

Those living in adobe buildings note that due to the high massiveness and thermal inertia of the walls made of heavy adobe, they are cool in summer, and in winter fluctuations in outside temperature have little effect on the temperature in the house. However, walls made of heavy material are not always energy efficient enough, and they have to be insulated.

Heavy monolithic walls or made of blocks in strength may not be inferior to brick
A wall made of heavy adobe, dense and without voids (density 1200-1600 kg / m³), ​​is close in terms of thermal conductivity to effective (hollow) brick or foam concrete (depending on the ratio of clay and straw in the material) and has a thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.3- 0.6 W/(m × °C).

It will be warmer the more straw it contains.

In the conditions of Ukraine, the wall thickness with such thermal conductivity of the material should be about a meter, which is difficult to implement and unprofitable in terms of labor costs.

Therefore, a wall of heavy adobe is usually made 40-50 cm thick, and then insulated and plastered.
Adobe requires the use of a vapor-permeable insulation. Expanded polystyrene is excluded, adobe construction enthusiasts consider mineral wool to be non-environmentally friendly.

Connoisseurs recommend using reeds (reeds), which do not absorb moisture, do not rot and have a tubular structure with air inside the stems. It is used in the form of mats, laid with a layer of at least 10 cm and firmly fixed to the wall with dowels.

There is a lot of straw in light adobe, so it cannot be used for the construction of load-bearing structures and requires a frame.

2-3 cm of clay or lime plaster are applied over the insulation (the latter is more durable).

The coldest places in any home are the corners.

The advantage of adobe technology is the ability to avoid problem areas by making rounded corners of the outer walls, slightly increasing their thickness.

Light adobe

Walls made of light material do not have high inertia, but have a high energy-saving ability (at a density of 500 kg/m³ and below, the material can be used as a heat insulator).

Their thickness can be 25 cm, but blowing through is possible (like a shell rock) and, as a rule, the walls are made 30-40 cm thick. The denser the adobe is rammed, the warmer the structure.
Due to the fact that there is a frame in the wall structure, the density of light adobe can be significantly reduced, achieving a high level of thermal insulation with a thin wall. Even with a wall thickness of 25 cm, the house does not require insulation.

However, in this case, it is important to use a strong plaster and to exclude the formation of cracks in order to avoid through blowing.

Cracks can occur when the material is loose and shrinks around the window frames, at the points of contact between the adobe and the frame, and when the plaster cracks. However, it is easy to cover them up, to renew the plaster (it is easy to repair an adobe house).

Expanded clay or light adobe is usually used to insulate the floor in the house.

Good afternoon! I am asking for help in repairing and insulating an old adobe house. House built in 37 years. Saman size 20x20x40. Over the past years, it has condensed so much that it has become like a stone. There was a need to dismantle part of the corner - they could hardly do it, the blocks of adobe were so firmly entangled with each other. But the house is cold. The windows were replaced with modern ones, the slopes and window sills were sealed up "to the good" - nowhere does it blow from them. The house is lined with brick "on ruba". The foundation is also adobe. The floor is cold. Heating from the boiler - there are radiators and PVC pipes in the rooms. But even with a frost of 10 degrees - the walls are getting colder. How to insulate a house?

Olga, Salsk, Rostov region.

Hello, Olga from Salsk, Rostov region!

Unfortunately, I can't be of any real use except for advice. You live too far from me to come to you with workers and try to rectify the situation.

From the available practice I can say the following. There are buildings that, no matter how much they insulate, they still remain cold.

And in order to create a comfortable temperature in the room, it is necessary to have a constantly working powerful heating system. Which is associated with high costs for fuel or other energy resources.

Let's first digress and reason purely theoretically.

You have a fairly solid adobe house lined on the outside with bricks installed on the edge, which was done to make it more beautiful outside. Most likely there is no insulation between adobe and brickwork. As a result, the walls form an array that accumulates the temperature regime that is dictated mainly by the external temperature background.

It is clear that the heating of the internal space somewhat increases the temperature of the walls, but not sufficiently. In addition, the temperature inside the room is largely affected by the surfaces of the ceiling (indirectly, both the attic and the roof) and the floor.

Based on these tedious theoretical conclusions, it follows that in order for the temperature inside the house to be tolerable for living in a very cold season, it is necessary to insulate, or rather, isolate the flow of cold on all these surfaces. Including both windows and doors, which are conductors of cold.

You write that the windows are made to last and the cold does not pass through them. On the doors facing the street, there should also be thermal curtains, and in short, transition tambours or similar curtains should be built.

Therefore, it remains to insulate the walls, floor and ceiling.

Most often, when lining adobe walls with bricks in problematic houses, insulation is placed between adobe and brick. Since you have not done this, then you should insulate according to one of two options. Or outside the house. Or inside the house. For your case, the second option is most likely suitable. Because if you make insulation from the outside, then you are tormented by heating the heating system.

Ideally, insulation in such cases is done as follows. The walls are sheathed with clapboard, which is mounted on lighthouses (a cranial bar with a section of 75/50 millimeters). A 50 mm thick insulation is laid between the beacons. Then an air gap of 25 millimeters is left between the insulation and the lining. The insulation is covered on both sides with a vapor barrier film. The distance between the beacons is usually made 600 millimeters, a multiple of the size of most heaters.

That is, once again and in order, the whole technology of wall insulation.

A vapor barrier film is attached to the adobe walls. Beacons 75/50 are attached to the walls with self-tapping anchors with their installation on the edge. Insulation is fixed between the beacons with "fungi" (self-tapping screws with plates or special purchased ones). A second layer of film is mounted on the beacons. Get an air gap of 25 millimeters between it and the insulation. The lining is nailed (instead of it, other materials such as plywood, various panels, plates, etc. can be installed)

The insulation of the ceiling from the inside of the room is carried out in a similar way as the insulation of the walls. In addition, in the attic space, the floor can also be insulated by laying insulation (starting from expanded clay and ending with mineral slabs or rolls).

Floor insulation is a special conversation. This insulation is sometimes more important than wall insulation, since there is not always a warm basement or underground under the house. If possible, both the basement and the ceiling above the basement are insulated in approximately the same way as described above. If there is no basement, underground floor at all, then a radical alteration is not ruled out. When the entire old floor is opened to a decent depth.

That is, the floor boards, logs are dismantled, the soil is removed to a certain depth. After that, a new floor is mounted in the form of a puff cake. The soil is leveled, waterproofing from roofing material or its analogues is laid. Approximately 15 cm layer of expanded clay is poured. Then a reinforced concrete screed with a thickness of 5 and above centimeters is made. Lay the sex logs, antiseptic. Lay the floor.

It is clear that all this is quite lengthy in terms of time and material costs. It is associated with many inconveniences in removing furniture or dragging it from place to place so as not to interfere with work. Possible dismantling of the pipes of the heating system and its batteries, since it is necessary to move them from the old walls by 75 millimeters plus the thickness of the wall material. The internal usable volume of the room will also decrease by twice that size. It is also possible to reduce the height of the room by lowering the ceiling surface and raising the floor.

But in the end, the thermal regime inside the room rises and you will feel much better than before.

There are, of course, many other options for insulation. But the above is the most commonly used.

Other questions on the topic of adobe houses.

What is the best way to insulate a house from the outside? This question worries all owners. The cool temperature in the living room during the cold season creates discomfort, in addition, finances are spent on additional heating, and this is not advisable.

The range of modern heaters is great. To choose the right thermal insulation, you need to familiarize yourself with the technical characteristics of each.

External insulation: choice of material

The market for modern thermal insulation materials is large. These are both synthetic heaters and natural ones. All of them differ from each other in technical characteristics - thermal conductivity, water absorption, specific gravity, installation methods, strength and others.

Among the natural materials for warming the house outside, the following can be distinguished:

• adobe (clay + straw + additives);
• expanded clay (relevant if the owner decides to build an additional outer wall in half a brick);
• warm plaster.

The range of synthetic insulation that can sheathe the walls of the house from the outside is wider:

• expanded polystyrenes (regular and extruded);
• polyurethane foam;
• penoizol;
• mineral wool (basalt is preferable).

All heaters can be divided into two groups:

• for self-assembly;
• for professional installation.

The former include any types of plasters (adobe and warm), expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene and foam), mineral wool, expanded clay.

Polyurethane foam can be attributed to the ideal thermal insulation of the house from the outside, but only specialists can sheathe (insulate) it, since the material is sprayed.

The situation is similar with penoizol (carbamide foam). This is a liquid thermal insulation, the installation of which requires a special installation and high-quality protection of the insulation from moisture.

In order to choose the right material, you need to decide on some conditions:

• financial component;
• quality of insulation;
• complexity / ease of installation.

The most expensive insulation can be called the thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam. The cheapest option is foam. In addition, it is light, so self-assembly is available (you can sheathe the house from the outside in a day). This insulation does not need a crate, it is glued with special glue directly to the wall.

Advice. Expanded polystyrenes (polystyrene / foam) are demanding on the quality of the walls. Therefore, before warming, they must be put in order - cleaned of the peeling old coating, checked with a level for deviation from the horizontal and leveled, if necessary.

The next option for the price is mineral wool. It is not demanding on the evenness of the walls, but it requires double-sided waterproofing and the installation of a ventilated facade, which entails additional labor costs.

What insulation do you prefer? To answer this question, you need to consider some of the technical characteristics of each of them, as well as decide how difficult it is to sheathe the walls of the house from the outside with one or another material.

Expanded polystyrenes

Polyfoam and penoplex are representatives of polystyrene foam. The differences between these heaters in price are significant. The same can be said about their technical characteristics:

• Thermal conductivity. For foam plastic and foam plastic, it is approximately the same, but the water absorption of the first is 4 times higher (4% per day) than that of the second. Penoplex almost does not absorb moisture, therefore it is recommended for wall insulation from the outside.

• Strength/brittleness. Styrofoam is difficult to work with, as it is fragile and crumbles on the cut. Penoplex has a fine-mesh structure, besides, all cells are very firmly interconnected, so the material is much stronger than polystyrene in bending and compression. It can be cut with a regular or clerical knife, the cut will not crumble.

• Flammability. Expanded polystyrenes are combustible heaters. However, modern versions of them are produced using flame retardants, which significantly reduces the risk of accidental ignition. When choosing a material, pay attention to the marking "G". G1 - flame-retardant, self-extinguishing insulation. There is also foam specifically for facade insulation - PSB-S-25F. The proportion of fire retardants in this composition is significant, therefore it is prohibited to use it for insulation inside residential premises.

• Sensitivity to solvents. Styrofoam and foam plastic are sensitive to organic solvents, therefore, to sheathe a house with them, use polyurethane foam glue or dry compounds, which are closed with water according to the instructions immediately before use.

• The need for finishing. Both types of polyurethane foams must be protected from the effects of atmospheric phenomena. For these purposes, plastering on a fiberglass mesh is used and further painting or applying bark beetle plaster. It is permissible to use warm plaster as additional insulation from the outside.

Important . Styrofoam and foam plastic are rather fragile heaters. Therefore, the layer of plaster mortar should be small.

The disadvantage of such thermal insulation of the walls is the love of rodents to arrange nests in polystyrene foam. So that they cannot reach the insulation, it is necessary to install a zero level from a metal profile. It is impossible to protect yourself from the penetration of mice into the insulation in other ways.

Mineral wool

This heater is chosen by many and it is quite reasonable. Its technical characteristics are more than attractive:

• The material is produced in various densities, which allows it to be sheathed not only for the wall of the house from the outside and from the inside, but also to be used for thermal insulation of the floor or roof.
• Form of production of mineral wool - mats, rolls, plates, as well as foil insulation.
• Basalt thermal insulation does not burn, withstanding heating up to 1000°C. This allows you to use it not only for wall insulation, but also for chimneys.
• The thermal conductivity of mineral wool is low.
• Water absorption is artificially reduced due to impregnation with water repellents, however, during installation, it is still necessary to lay waterproofing on both sides of the insulation.
• Rodents are indifferent to cotton wool.
• The material is inert to most chemical and organic solvents.
• It is easy to work with cotton wool, so do-it-yourself installation is available.

The technology for installing mineral wool on walls from the outside and from the inside - on glue and frame. In the first case, finishing is carried out with plaster (wet facade system), in the second - with siding, block-house, porcelain stoneware (hinged and ventilated facade systems).

Frame technology installation of mineral wool includes the following steps:

1. The wall of the house is treated with an antiseptic and dried.
2. Then the waterproofing is installed and the bars of the vertical crate are stuffed.
3. The insulation is cut to size and installed in the niches of the crate by surprise (both “hanging” it and “protrusion” is unacceptable).
4. After that, mineral wool is tightened with a vapor barrier membrane.
5. You can additionally install horizontal guides that will fix the wool in the niches.

Additional actions are not required to properly sheathe the outside of the house with mineral wool. Finishing of such insulation - siding, block house, porcelain stoneware - any options installed on the frame or crate.

Expanded clay and adobe

Natural heaters are cheap, acquiring them is not a problem. Therefore, quite often the owners of private houses choose them. In addition, they are environmentally friendly, breathe, which is attractive to many.

The walls of the house are insulated with expanded clay at the construction stage. You can do this after it is over, but for such insulation you need to lay out additional walls at a distance of about 20 cm from the main ones. Get a well masonry. The space between the walls must be isolated from moisture and covered with expanded clay (mix the insulation of various fractions), then shed with cement milk to reduce its settling and increase strength.

Important . As additional thermal insulation, walls already insulated with expanded clay can be finished outside with warm plaster.

Saman has been used to insulate the walls of houses for a long time. But the technology behind it is complex. Nobody knows the exact recipe for the plaster composition, since a lot depends on the quality of the clay. Therefore, this method of wall insulation from the outside is considered complex and time-consuming (every time the master experiments). Insulated walls must be protected from moisture, so they are whitewashed with lime. The result of such thermal insulation is an environmentally friendly house, in which it is pleasant to be at any time of the year.

What material to focus on

After analyzing the installation technology and some qualities of heaters, it is easy to decide which one to choose. The easiest and cheapest way is to sheathe the outside of the house with foam. More expensive and better - penoplex. Mineral wool refers to breathable materials, but for it it is necessary to equip a ventilated facade. Polyurethane foam is not picky about the quality of the walls, it sticks to them perfectly, completely insulates the house from the penetration of cold air and moisture, but the price of such insulation is high. Thermal insulation with natural materials - for an amateur. They are cheap, but require significant labor costs.