Agrotechnics of daylily cultivation. Proper care of daylilies in the fall

Daylily is a beautiful decorative flower of the genus Daylily of the Xanthorrheaceae family. It is a herbaceous ornamental flowering perennial. From East Asia. Under natural conditions, daylilies grow on the outskirts of forests, near shrubs. The genus includes more than 20 natural species, with the participation of which many hybrid varieties have been obtained.

Description

Daylilies are herbaceous rhizomes perennials. The root system is cord-like, thickened and fleshy, which allows the flowers to survive during the drought period. The leaves are straight, arcuate, two-row and broadly linear. Peduncles are leafy, there may be several of them, with a height of up to 100 cm. The flowers are showy, large, funnel-shaped. In inflorescences, there are from 3 to 9, gradually opening buds. Each flower lives for one day. The duration of flowering of the entire bush is 30 - 45 days. Flowering occurs in June - September. The color palette of flowers is orange, yellow, burgundy. The fruits are represented by a trihedral box with a few black seeds.

Let us analyze in more detail the agricultural technology of the daylily and emphasize the features of transplantation in the fall!

Varieties and types

All daylilies are divided into specific and varietal.

Species - common natural varieties with yellow or orange flowers.

They bloom in May-June. Popular types of daylilies are:

• Yellow;
• redhead;
• Lilliynik Du Maurier;
• Lemon-yellow daylily;
• Middendorf Llily.

Varietal - These are hybrid daylilies that bloom in July-August and have a very rich color of flowers.

The most popular varieties used in landscaping are:

• Dragon , s eye. Variety with light pink flowers, 10 cm in diameter. Bush 60 cm high. Blooms at the end of July;
• Romantic Rose. Daylily of medium height, up to 70 cm high. The flower is large, up to 17 cm in diameter. Blooms from July to August;
• Arctic Snow. An ivory-colored daylily with a greenish center. The height of the peduncle is 65 cm, the diameter of the flower is 15 cm. It blooms in mid-July;
• Forgotten Dreams. Dark purple variety with a light green center. Fragrant. The height of the peduncle is 70 cm. It blooms in the middle of summer;
• Tiger. Bright orange daylily with a diamond coating and a large red eye .. Visible in any flower garden;
• Summer Wine. Variety with a bright wine flower with a yellow-green center. The height of the peduncle is up to 60 cm, the diameter of the flower is up to 14 cm. It blooms in July;
• David Kirchoff. Flower of lilac-lavender shades with a lacy, golden yellow border and a green center. The height of the peduncle is 70 cm, the diameter of the flower is 14 cm. It blooms in August.

Cultivation and care

Daylilies are unpretentious plants, but prefer fertile loose soils. On heavy clay soils, they can get sick with fungal diseases due to stagnant water and rotting of the root neck. Sandy soils are poor nutrients, so the daylily will develop poorly and slowly on them, and due to lack of water, it may die.

Places to land must be chosen solar sun stimulates the plant to abundant and long flowering. In the shade, the daylily will be able to grow, but flowering will be very scarce or may be completely absent.

For planting, the earth in the selected area is dug up, loosened and holes are made, the dimensions of which should exceed the dimensions of the root system. In the middle of the hole, a hill is made, a daylily bush is placed on it, and the roots are straightened.

The bush is carefully covered with earth, compacted. Make sure that the root neck is no more than 3 cm deep. After planting, the bush is moderately watered.

Caring for daylilies is not difficult. Watering is carried out only if necessary and in the root area, about once every 10 days. In hot weather, it is necessary to water in the evening, after the sun has set.

A prerequisite successful cultivation is the introduction of top dressing.

• The first top dressing is carried out in the spring with a complex mineral fertilizer. The granules are scattered around the bush and watered from a watering can with a scattered nozzle.

• The second top dressing is carried out during the flowering period with infusions with mullein, chicken manure or fermented herbs. The plants are fed for the third time in September, using autumn fertilizer with phosphorus and potassium, which contributes to a good budding for the next year.

Can't fertilize young plant in the first year of life! Since the seedling from oversaturation with nutrients may die.

It is necessary to remove wilted flowers in time so that the plant does not waste its strength on them, but spends nutrients on the formation of new buds. After flowering, you need to remove all flower stalks, and closer to winter, cut off the ground part of the plant. Before the start of frost, it is necessary to cover the plantings with spruce branches, which are removed in the spring to prevent decay.

Mature 15 year old bushes need to be repotted to give the plant new life, which improves flowering and revitalizes the crop. Bushes are dug up in autumn, divided and planted in new places, at a distance of 70 cm from each other.

reproduction

Daylilies propagate, as well as:

• seeds;
• in a vegetative way.

Reproduction by seeds is a long process. They are mainly used for selection work. Daylily seeds quickly lose their germination capacity, so they are sown in late autumn, to a depth of 2 cm. But flowering when propagated by seeds will occur only for 2-3 years.

A more convenient method of propagation of the daylily is recognized as vegetative, by dividing the bush.

Dig up a plant that is at least 6 years old and divide it into parts, carefully separating the roots and rosettes with your hands so as not to damage the fragile, root system. This procedure can be done in the spring or early autumn. The divided parts of the plant are washed, inspected for the presence of pests, diseases. Damaged parts are removed with a pruner. Then the plots are planted.

Diseases and pests

Daylily can suffer from rust, fusarium. Which appear as a result of prolonged wet weather and waterlogging of the soil.

Rust- pustules with powder form on the leaves yellow color. Growth slows down, there is no flowering, the leaves fall off.

Fusarium manifests itself as wilting of the stems, browning of the root neck, yellowing of the leaves.

The most common disease is rosette rot(necks). Usually it manifests itself from waterlogging or a strong deepening of the root collar during planting. The leaves turn yellow, lose their elasticity. The plant may die if no action is taken. All damaged parts of the plant are removed and destroyed, the bush is dug up, treated with potassium permanganate and transplanted to a new place.

All fungal diseases(rust, fusarium and rot) are treated with fungicides.

From harmful insects daylilies damage:

• Lily mosquitoes;
• Ttrips;
• Slugs;
• Ttlya.

All these insects infect leaves and buds, they are especially aggressive during the period from late spring to early summer. They are controlled with insecticides. Spraying is carried out. From slugs, granules of preparations are scattered around the plant, and baits are placed.

Use in landscaping

Daylily is a very popular, grateful, unpretentious flower. His intense color palette very diverse, and the shape of the bud is sometimes enchanting. It practically fits into all styles of the garden.

Looks great in bright flower beds, creates a dense undergrowth. Romantically coexists with a rose, bearded irises, bows, geraniums, cuffs in colorful mixborders. Playfully combined with hostas, geyhers and astilbes in an openwork shade. In discounts you can find low-growing varieties in the company of wormwood and chistets. A daylily looks worthy near a reservoir or even near a dry stream, surrounded by coastal plants.

Compliance with the rules for growing and caring for a daylily given in the article will make your pet the king of the garden!

Daylilies are valuable ornamental crops due to the unusual shape of the inflorescences and exquisite aroma. At the same time, they are distinguished by their unpretentiousness in care, and perennial varieties will serve for a long time. exquisite decoration garden.

Despite the unpretentiousness of daylilies, it is desirable to create optimal growth conditions for them: choose the right site for planting and provide proper care. You will find the necessary information for growing these flowers in this article.

Characteristics of a daylily flower

A distinctive feature of the daylily is its high resistance to drought. This characteristic culture is provided with fleshy and thick adventitious roots, which are able to provide the plant with the necessary moisture even in dry weather.

Picture 1. External Features daylily

The plant has large flowers of yellow, orange or red-brown hue (Figure 1). As a rule, they are collected in small inflorescences, but at the same time no more than three opened buds can appear on the plant, and the duration of each flowering is about three weeks.

Species and varieties

There are a lot of varieties of daylily, and it will be difficult to describe them all. Therefore, we will focus only on the most popular.

Note: Only yellow, orange and the Middendorf variety are classified as natural species. All other varieties (about 60 thousand) are hybrids bred by breeders (Figure 2).

Daylily varieties are usually divided into several types (groups):

1. Terry- differ in additional petals near the bud (varieties Double Dream, Double Classic, Night Amber).
2. arachnids got its name due to large inflorescences, the petals of which are shaped like spiders (Grape Witch, Start Twister, etc.).
3. fragrant hybrids are distinguished not only by beautiful inflorescences, but also by an exquisite aroma. This group includes varieties Apple Spring, Pandora Box, Stella de Oro, etc.

Figure 2. The main types of flower: 1 - terry, 2 - arachnid, 3 - fragrant

In addition, there are separate varieties of white and variegated flowers, which, like other species, are unpretentious and highly decorative.

Growing daylilies in open ground

Daylily cultivation in open field cannot be called complex. However, this condition applies only to natural varieties, while hybrid ones require more thorough care.

In order for the garden bed to regularly delight you with abundant flowering, you need to choose the right place and time for planting, as well as provide the flowers with optimal care during the growing season. We will consider these features in more detail.

How to grow

Under natural conditions, daylilies grow on forest edges, in partial shade. But, since this culture is considered tropical, a flower bed located in a shaded area will not be the most suitable for these flowers. In conditions temperate climate such an arrangement can lead to the fact that the plants will not have enough light, and there may be no flowering.

Based on these requirements, these flowers are best grown in well-lit areas, although light shade for a few hours a day will also be acceptable.

The soil

Much more important criterion is the correct selection of soil for the plant. Despite the fact that daylilies grow successfully in any soil, for the most abundant flowering it is better to provide the plant with suitable conditions.

The best soil is fertile loam with good drainage. Therefore, if your area is dense clay soil, it must be diluted with sand and compost. Compost is also added to sandy soils, mixing it with large quantity clay and sod-podzolic soil.

It is important that the area is not too wet. If your garden is in a lowland, you need to additionally equip the drainage or land on raised beds.

You will learn from the video helpful tips and practical advice for the cultivation of daylilies.

What colors go with

Thanks to the bright and original inflorescences, daylilies can be used both as an element of a flower arrangement and as an independent decoration of the garden. In addition, lush leaves and large inflorescences will go well with ornamental shrubs or fruit trees. The main thing is to be more tall plants did not shade the flower (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Features of the layout of the flower bed and the combination of flower crops

When planning a flower bed with daylilies, it is important to consider that already at the end of summer these plants stop flowering and lose their decorative effect. That is why, next to the culture, it is necessary to place undersized decorative species (cereal crops, physiostegia, yarrow, etc.), which will hide the yellowing leaves of the culture.

Daylily planting

In order for daylily cultivation to be successful, and the plant to regularly delight you with abundant and long flowering, you need not only to choose the right site and soil for growing, but also follow certain planting rules.

There are clear criteria for planting a plant, although many gardeners believe that there are no special requirements for planting a plant. Since this opinion is erroneous, let us dwell in more detail on the timing and rules for planting this unusual flower into the ground.

When to plant

Planting a crop in open ground can be carried out at any time of the year, except for winter. Plants take root equally well in both spring and autumn planting. However, to eliminate the risk of death of seedlings, it is better to choose the planting time depending on the climatic characteristics of your region.

Note: It should be borne in mind that the duration of the rooting of a young culture is about a month.

If your area has short autumns and cold winters, it is best to plant the flower in autumn. So you will be sure that it will fully take root and get stronger before the onset of cold weather. In the southern regions, landing can be carried out in the fall. A layer of mulch will help to provide young plants with additional protection, which is laid out in the garden before the onset of cold weather.

How to plant a daylily

Planting a daylily is practically no different from other flower crops. However, if you are afraid that you will do something wrong and the young shoots will die, we advise you to use our step by step instructions on disembarkation (Figure 4).

The daylily planting algorithm is as follows:

1. A few hours before planting, seedlings are placed in water or liquid mineral fertilizers. This procedure will help determine the quality of the root system. All dry or damaged roots are removed, and healthy ones are shortened to 20-30 cm.
2. Landing pits should have a depth of up to 30 cm, and they should be placed at least half a meter apart. Daylily is a perennial crop and grows rapidly.
3. Sand, peat, humus, a little ash and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added to each well. A small mound is formed from the nutrient mixture.
4. A seedling is placed in the center of the mound, the roots are straightened and lightly sprinkled with soil.
5. The pit is not completely filled with earth. The top layer is carefully compacted and watered. When the water is absorbed, the hole is completely filled with soil.

Figure 4. Scheme of planting a plant in open ground

During planting, it is necessary to ensure that the root neck of the seedling is located no more than 2-3 cm from the soil surface, but does not protrude to the surface. Only in such conditions the plants will quickly take root, begin to grow actively and bloom profusely.

Transfer

With proper care, daylilies develop normally and bloom in one place for 10-15 years. But, if you notice that the number of buds has decreased or they have become smaller, then it's time to pick up a new place for the plant (Figure 5).

Flower transplantation is carried out as follows:

1. An adult bush is carefully dug around the outer edge and removed along with an earthen clod (while trying not to touch the roots).
2. The root systems are washed under a strong stream of water to make the bush easier to separate. As a rule, they are easily separated, but in some cases it is necessary to cut them with a knife or secateurs. All cuts must be disinfected.
3. Immediately before planting, the roots are slightly shortened and planted in the ground according to the scheme described above.

Figure 5. Features of culture transplantation

It is important to consider that it is better to transplant a plant in cloudy weather so that the bushes take root faster in a new place.

daylily care

Despite all the unpretentiousness of the daylily, he still needs some care. Without proper conditions, plants can start to get sick, stun or stop flowering. To prevent this from happening, it is important to provide crops with optimal care.

Let us consider in more detail what care should be provided to these ornamental plants in the garden and what measures should be taken to grow a productive ornamental crop.

Daylily care in the garden

Daylily can be called an ideal plant for the garden, as abundant and long flowering is provided with minimal care. For example, the flower tolerates drought well, so it does not need frequent watering.

Note: The introduction of moisture may be required only in severe and prolonged drought. In this case, one or more buckets of water should be poured directly under the root so that the soil is deeply saturated with moisture, and the procedure itself is best done in the evening.

During the growing process, only two top dressings are required. Only on poor soils fertilizer application increase, but in this case it is important to remember that it is better to slightly underfeed the plant than to cause an excess of nutrients. For the first time, complex mineral fertilizers are applied in early spring to stimulate leaf growth. The second time the flowers are fed in August, when the flowering period is over, and the plants begin to prepare for winter.

Regardless of the time of feeding, it is better to use fertilizers in granules, after which the soil must be watered abundantly. Mulching the bush will also have a positive effect, as it will prevent the loss of moisture and nutrients.

For more information on caring for daylilies, see the video.

reproduction

Transplantation and reproduction is best done in August. It is at this time that a short period of vegetative dormancy begins. In most cases, the plant is propagated by dividing the bush, but in some cases propagation by seeds is also allowed (Figure 6).

Figure 6. Plant propagation methods

It should be taken into account that last way is used only for breeding new hybrids, since a plant grown from seeds will not retain the species characteristics of the variety.

Pests and diseases

Daylilies are not only unpretentious, but also relatively resistant crops. They rarely get sick, and most pests are repelled by the rich aroma of the flower. However, there are several types of insects that can harm the plant. For example, thrips get inside the plant from the soil and begin to feed on its juices. As a result, the bush becomes weak, and the buds have irregular shape. Unfortunately, effective methods there is no fight against thrips, and the affected plant must be dug up and burned along with a clod of earth.

Not less than dangerous pest the lily mosquito is considered to lay eggs in the leaves and buds of the plant. The hatched larvae gnaw through the passages in the leaves and reduce the decorative effect of the culture.

Among the common daylily diseases, the following pathologies are distinguished:

1. root rot most often appears in the spring. A characteristic symptom is yellowing of the leaves and stopping their growth. The affected plant must be carefully removed from the soil, its roots inspected, the damaged parts removed, and the remaining parts washed in a weak solution of potassium permanganate.
2. Rust manifests itself only if patrinia grows next to the daylily. For prevention, the culture must be regularly treated with fungicides.
3. Fusarium- a fungal disease that causes yellowing and drying of the leaves, and oppression of the whole plant as a whole. In the early stages, fungicides will help to cope with it, but if the disease has spread greatly, the plant must be burned along with an earthen clod.

To prevent the spread of diseases, you need to regularly inspect the bushes and remove their affected parts, as well as carry out preventive treatments with fungicides and insecticides in small doses.

Daylily after flowering

There is a special classification, guided by which you can determine how to properly care for plants after flowering. according to this division into species, daylilies are deciduous, evergreen and semi-evergreen. Representatives of the first group begin to turn yellow after flowering, and their leaves gradually dry out. In such varieties, the aerial part is cut off before winter, leaving no more than 15-20 cm of shoots. For the winter, they can not be covered, as these crops are highly winter-hardy. Semi-evergreen and evergreen varieties require shelter only in cold regions or during snowless winters if average daily temperature drops below -20 degrees. Straw, sawdust or dry branches can be used as shelter.

It is difficult to find a summer cottage that does not have daylilies - these flowers have gained immense popularity among flower growers of all time due to their unpretentiousness. However, even they need, albeit minimal, but proper care in the fall and preparation for winter.

Features of care and preparation for winter - general tips and tricks

Watering. The root system of daylilies is deep and branched, and the processes of the rhizome are able to accumulate water in their pulp. Due to these features, the plant is not very demanding on moisture. Daylilies need to be watered only if there is not enough rainfall to keep the soil well moistened.

Watering is done in cloudy weather, in the morning or evening hours slightly warm water under the root. There is an opinion that watering daylilies by sprinkling is undesirable: light green leaves become stained. To water one flower, you need to take enough water so that the soil is moist at a depth of 20-30 cm.

Top dressing. Feeding daylilies in autumn is best in September. organic fertilizers or fertilizer high in phosphorus and potassium. They help to strengthen the plant before wintering and improve its resistance to many diseases. Feeding is especially necessary phosphate fertilizers newly divided or planted plants: chemical element promotes active growth rhizomes, and the flower takes root faster in a new place.

Mullein, bird droppings, horse dung in small quantities they are brought under a bush and dug up. Organic-based solutions are poured into a groove made along the perimeter of the root system. Daylilies are fed with mineral fertilizers in the fall at the root, in doses indicated by the manufacturer.

Organics and purchased top dressing can be replaced with wood ash, which contains about 30 vital macro- and microelements.

Important! After fertilizing, daylilies need to be watered abundantly.

Mulching. Varieties of daylilies that do not have high frost resistance after sub-zero temperatures are established are covered with mulching materials: peat, sawdust, straw, spruce branches, leaves. Please note that the base of the bush cannot be covered with heavy materials.

Pruning. Despite the fact that the foliage feeds the roots in winter, timely shearing will help protect the plant from the appearance of rot, which can spread to the root collar from the aerial part. During the garden manipulation, it is very important to adhere to the established rules, since any deviation from them is fraught with loss of strength and death of the daylily. Autumn pruning of daylilies can be omitted only in the southern regions, where the leaves dry completely before frost, which is why they do not rot and serve as additional shelter.

Shelter. If representatives of true varieties of daylily in the conditions of continental winter can perfectly do without shelter, then hybrids originating from a warm climate South America, rarely manage to survive until spring without a layer of insulation.

pruning in autumn

Planting for the first time bright flower on his site, the grower makes every effort to keep it until next spring. Not everyone knows, but pruning is one of the main stages in preparing daylilies for winter.

Why prune daylilies in the fall

“Will cutting the leaves harm the plant?” - this question is asked by almost all novice gardeners, picking up a pruner. The answer is unequivocal: of course not.

Pruning daylilies in the fall is advisable for the following reasons:

• Manipulation prevents foliage from rotting: the dense aerial part, under the influence of cold weather and precipitation, quickly rots and blocks the access of air to the root neck, which has a very bad effect on the plant.
• Clipping of leaves is an excellent prevention of diseases, the pathogens of which have accumulated on the foliage throughout the season.
• Pruning will help get rid of the main pest of daylilies and many garden plants. Together with the cut foliage, the slugs that hid under the foliage for the winter are also destroyed.
• A low stump is covered with snow in winter, and the plant suffers less from cold winds and frosts.
• The cropped aerial part looks much better than the rotting leaves scattered by the wind.

Therefore, every gardener who is not indifferent to the share of a plant should cut it off in a timely manner before the cold weather.

When is the best time to prune - in spring or autumn

According to the opinion of most flower growers who have been growing and breeding daylilies for a long time, it is preferable to prune in the fall, adhering to all the rules for manipulation. Properly carried out, autumn pruning is much safer than spring pruning.

Many are sure that in winter, nutrients from the aerial part gradually pass from the leaves to the root system. However, at the same time, this advantage is offset by a high risk of rotting of the root neck and death of the daylily.

Therefore, it is better to understand the technology of autumn pruning and put it into practice, rather than guessing whether a flower will sprout in spring or not.

When to prune daylilies in the fall

It is necessary to prune daylilies on the eve of stable frosts or immediately after they are established. Depending on the climate of the growing region, a suitable time for manipulation comes in October-November.

Important! It is impossible to prune daylilies earlier than the specified time: cutting too early stimulates the plant to renew the aerial part. Also, before the cold weather itself, the kidneys may wake up, which will die along with the arrival of frost. Both that, and another phenomenon causes great harm to the flower.

How to cut daylilies correctly - instructions and diagram

Just like many herbaceous plants It is very easy to prune daylilies. There is only one manipulation scheme, which has the following sequence:

1. With a sharp pruner, all leaves are cut at a height of 10-15 cm.
2. For the prevention of diseases and better airflow, the plants are raked and removed from the site. Together with above-ground part daylilies are destroyed and slugs hiding for the winter.

Important! Leaving shorter stumps can provoke the plant to resume foliage growth.

Care after pruning

After shearing, the site is cleaned of organic debris, and then burned away from the site. No more care manipulations are carried out, including fertilizing.

Shelter daylilies for the winter

Most of the perennial flowers need to be covered for the winter, as the weather in last years often surprises with its variability. To protect your favorite plantings from possible winter vagaries and your nervous system from worries about wintering, it is recommended that you first familiarize yourself with the characteristics of the cultivated variety. Only after matching the description and weather conditions region, it is possible to determine the feasibility and methods of sheltering daylilies.

Do I need to cover daylilies for the winter

Despite the fact that daylilies belong to plants with good winter hardiness, some of their varieties need to be covered for the winter, especially if the climate of the growing region is replete with severe prolonged frosts and lack of heavy rainfall. Regardless of the variety, daylilies planted this fall need to be covered, because they have not yet had time to get well and adapt to the conditions. environment and may freeze.

How to cover daylilies for the winter

To protect daylilies from gusty winds and prolonged frosts, it is enough to cover the plant with a layer of mulch 5-10 cm thick. Spruce branches, straw, crushed pine bark, and dry leaves are used as insulation. Experienced gardeners warn against sheltering flower beds with cut grass: in most cases, among the herbs there are weeds that will fall into the soil and sprout together in the spring. Although such a mulch will protect the flowers from the cold, at the same time, because of it, in the spring you will have to spend a lot of time weeding flowering plantings.

Note! It is impossible to cover daylilies when warming is still possible: under the influence of positive temperatures, the plants can rot.

What are the features of preparing daylilies for winter in the regions

For successful wintering of daylilies, it is necessary to correctly determine the thickness of the shelter, which will protect the flowers from freezing in the conditions of the growing region.

In the middle lane

The shelter of daylilies in the Moscow region practically does not differ from the usual scheme for preparing a plant for winter.

In the Volga region

On the territory of the region, bright flowers are covered with a thicker layer of mulch. To protect plants from freezing, mulching material is laid on top of the bushes with a layer of 8-10 cm. It is known that snow is the best insulation, therefore, during the winter it is necessary to monitor the amount of snow over the flower garden: in case of a decrease in the thickness of the snow cover, it is replenished from the central parts of the garden.

In the Urals and Siberia

These regions are characterized by prolonged low temperatures, from which even winter-hardy species of daylilies can suffer. In order to preserve the flower for sure, the plant is carefully dug up and brought into the basement or cellar. After the arrival of spring, daylilies are again planted on the site.

Typical mistakes in caring for daylilies in the fall and preparing for winter

During the cultivation of any plant, errors are possible. By familiarizing yourself with the most common misconceptions, you can avoid them during preparatory work in your area.

So, the main mistakes in caring for and preparing a daylily for winter are:

• The aerial part of the plant is cut off at the same level with the ground or a stump is left too short.
• Do not comply with the terms of pruning and shelter. In the first case, the plant begins to grow actively, which takes a lot of energy before winter, in the second, the daylily rots.
• The flower is fed with fertilizers with a large amount of nitrogen, because of which the plant begins to grow and weakens.

To keep plantings of bright daylilies until spring, you need to show very little care for perennials. Of course, you can let things go by themselves and not take care of the flowers at all, but they will bloom thinly and look painful. Therefore, if the view of the garden is really important for the owner, he must definitely properly prepare the daylilies for the winter.

These flowering perennials are well-deservedly popular with gardeners, because with their magnificent decorative appearance during flowering they are unpretentious. Looking at these flowering perennials, it is hard to imagine that they do not need to be looked after constantly, day after day. The plant can grow in sunny areas, but it blooms beautifully in partial shade, and it can be planted in any soil - from sandstone to heavy clay soils. Without a transplant, the daylily feels good in one place for up to ten years.

But in the fall, you will have to work a little to prepare this flower for wintering. About the main agrotechnical measures to prepare the plant for the coming cold weather and the conversation will go below.

Features of caring for daylilies in the fall

The main care for daylilies is in the fall - during this period, the flowers are pruned, fertilized, if necessary (if the winters in the region are cold and with little snow) cover. But this blooming perennial is highly frost-resistant, therefore, there will be no special worries about sheltering this plant for the winter.

For good and bright flowering, it is desirable to water once or even twice a week.

In autumn, watering these flowers is necessary only when the autumn is dry. If the weather has been rainy since the end of September, then it is not necessary to add additional moisture to the soil - the roots of this perennial may then begin to rot.

pruning

It is necessary to prune the daylily in the fall so that the drying foliage does not begin to rot. Also, in the foliage left for the winter, pests and pathogenic microorganisms can hide from frost.

Autumn pruning of daylilies will prevent the process of decay of the remaining foliage.

Faded shoots are best removed immediately so that they do not spoil the appearance of the flower. In autumn, after the rains, the fading wet flowers remain on the peduncles. They should also be cut off immediately. Leaves are pruned only when they are completely dry. Because the process of photosynthesis takes place in the living foliage, as a result, useful substances are formed that get to the roots with the juice and nourish them after the end of flowering.

Pruning timing

Peduncles are cut off as the flowers fade. In late varieties of daylilies, pruning of faded stems is often carried out along with pruning of dried foliage.- in the last decade of October - the first decade of November.

If the decision is made to cut the foliage, pruning should be done just before frost or after the first frost.

All cut aerial parts of daylilies are immediately collected and destroyed so that “harmful” bugs do not remain in the dried foliage.

top dressing

In autumn these blooming perennials require fertilization, since after abundant flowering before the onset of cold weather, the root system needs to restore nutrients.

The most common fertilizer is NPK 16:16:16.

Usually the last feeding of these flowering perennials held in the second half of September. Mineral fertilizers are applied under the flowers, which include - phosphorus and potassium. You can also add organic manure or compost.

Mineral dressings help the root system to get stronger after flowering and better prepare for the upcoming frosts.

If daylilies were transplanted in early autumn, then adding phosphorus to the soil helps the plant acclimatize faster in a new place, and the root system will begin to grow more actively. Mineral top dressing should be applied under the bushes, the dosage of these drugs should be no more than that indicated in the instructions for use.

Organic fertilizers improve the resistance of daylilies to many diseases.

Organics in dry form (any type of manure) are scattered around the plants and dug up. The amount of this fertilizer should be small. You can apply organic fertilizers in the fall and in liquid form. In this case, furrows are dug around the flowers in a circle, into which top dressing is poured.

In the event that there are no purchased fertilizers or manure at hand, under these perennials you can add wood ash. This fertilizer contains a large amount of macro and microelements, which are necessary for the normal development of daylilies.

After the introduction of mineral or organic fertilizers be sure to water the flowers.

Preparing daylilies for winter

Not all varieties of daylilies require mandatory shelter. In the warm regions of our country, it is not even necessary to cover the soil above the roots of the flower with a layer of mulch after pruning and fertilizing.

The base of the bush should not be covered with heavy materials.

But in the conditions of the central strip, in the Moscow region, in the Urals and in Siberia, care should be taken that the root system of daylilies does not suffer from severe frosts.

How to properly hide

Those varieties of daylilies that have low frost resistance require shelter before the cold. After the thermometer drops below zero, the ground around the cut bushes should be covered with a layer of mulching material. For this you can use peat, sawdust, straw, dry leaves, spruce branches. But the base of the bush should not be laid with heavy materials.

Daylilies prepared for winter.

Varieties acclimatized for most regions of our country may well, in our cold winter, get by with a shelter from a layer of mulch. But those types of daylilies that came to us from Central and South America require shelter with special covering materials.

The main mistakes when preparing daylilies for winter

Often even experienced gardeners may make mistakes in preparing this beautiful plant for the coming winter. The main shortcomings are:

1. Too low pruning daylily - flush with the ground. Also you can not leave too small a stump at the stems and peduncles;
2. Be sure to observe the time when to remove the foliage and stems of the daylily, as well as the time for applying autumn fertilizers. If the timing of pruning is not observed, the plant grows again, taking strength and nutrients from the roots. As a result, the daylily weakens before the onset of cold weather and can freeze even with good shelter. Early shelter of a flower can lead to perennial decay;
3. When fertilizing in the fall, too much nitrogen fertilizer is applied to the soil. They can provoke the growth of the aerial part, which will lead to a weakening of the flower.

With proper preparation for winter, daylilies will perfectly endure even severe frosts in a snowless winter. If you neglect the basic rules for caring for this perennial in the autumn, then next season the foliage of the flower will be rare and faded, and the flowering will be weak.

Daylilies are called good choice for busy, beginner or "lazy" gardeners. With the help of these luxurious, but unpretentious flowers, they create diverse, long-flowering compositions that do not require laborious care. A few simple tips will help you achieve success and grow daylilies of incredible beauty when planting in open ground.

How daylilies grow in the climatic conditions of Russia

In nature, there are only a few species of this plant. Breeders have bred more than one and a half hundred varieties and about 70 thousand hybrids.

Daylilies are herbaceous outdoor plants with long narrow leaves growing from one base. Long strong flower stalks depart from a thick green curtain, but which large funnel-shaped flowers bloom alternately, plain or multi-color, simple, double-row or terry, depending on the variety.

Plants are undemanding to the soil, fertilizing, humidity, temperature.

Important provide them with good lighting choosing a sunny place or light partial shade for planting.

Perfectly take root in all Russian regions. Even the harsh snowy winters of central Siberia are endured without additional shelter. However, experienced gardeners recommend taking into account some climatic features when growing:

• in the southern regions of Russia, daylilies are best placed in partial shade, protecting from prolonged exposure to the hot sun;
• in areas where there is little snow in winter, in anticipation of the cold weather, daylily planting it is worth covering with spruce branches or laying a layer of mulch; the shelter must be removed at the very beginning of spring to prevent the root neck of the plant from rotting.

When is the best time to plant flowers outdoors?

May be planted in the ground any time from spring to autumn. But if possible, it is better to do this in May or August.

Plants planted in spring in warm soil quickly take root and bloom in the same summer. They have time to prepare well for wintering, form flower buds for flowering next year.

In late summer or early September, daylilies should be planted in regions where autumn is long and warm, and winter comes late. Flowers will also have time to take root and successfully survive the winter. After landing cut the leaves at a distance of 12-15 cm from the root collar, the soil around the bush is mulched with a layer of 8-12 cm.

It is more correct to transplant and divide old bushes in the spring, at the end of April or in May.

When boarding, make sure you have enough free space, because the daylily can grow in one place for 12-15 years, growing in breadth and forming lush curtains up to 0.7-0.9 m in diameter.

Landing rules and nuances

For planting a daylily choose well lit place. Varieties with dark flowers (dark red, purple, purple) are best placed in light partial shade, with light ones (white, cream, yellow, pink, orange) - in open sunny areas.

flowers grow on any soil. But they prefer light fertile loose soils and do not like moisture stagnation at the roots and root neck. When planting a flower in well-cultivated land, no additional measures are required.

On heavy dense loams, a drainage layer of expanded clay or medium-sized gravel is arranged, sand, rotted manure and compost are introduced into the planting pit.

On depleted sandstones, humus, peat, and phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are added.

Before planting, dried and damaged roots are cut, the cut points are treated with crushed charcoal, charcoal or activated. Some flower growers recommend cutting leaves at a height of 10-15 cm from the root. But if planting is carried out in early spring, at the beginning of the growing season, such a procedure is not required.

Pruning daylily leaves before planting

The size landing pit depends on the size of the rhizome of the seedling or delenka, its diameter should be 15-20 cm larger.

The plant is placed in a hole, the roots are straightened, the soil is covered, carefully compacting it. The root neck is deepened by 2-2.5 cm. The topsoil is compacted, the plantings are watered abundantly. To retain moisture and improve soil structure, it is useful to immediately lay a 10-centimeter layer of mulch.

In group planting, a distance of 50-70 cm is left between plants.

Flower care after planting

Daylilies, even hybrid ones, are unpretentious, and after planting they do not cause much trouble to the gardener.

Flowers in the first year don't feed. To preserve moisture and loose soil structure, plantings are mulched with any material at hand - forest litter, tree bark, straw.

In the future, flower care includes loosening, watering and weeding.

It is necessary to water only during dry periods, infrequently, but plentifully, in the evening, directing the water “under the root”.

Starting from the second year of the life of the bush need to think about supplements. They require at least two during the growing season:

• in early spring, dry granular complex mineral fertilizers are applied, planting them in the soil around the bush;
• after the end of the active phase of flowering, they are fed with potash and phosphorus preparations.

Granular potash fertilizers

Phosphorus-potassium fertilizers beneficial effect on:

• strengthening the root system,
• laying flower buds for next year,
• increased immunity, frost resistance and drought resistance, which is important in winter.

Excess fertilizer is not useful for a daylily. He tolerates “light starvation” much better.

Preparing for winter

Daylilies, whose leaves fade by autumn, and grow back in spring, are called sleeping. There are also evergreen and semi-evergreen species. Withered leaves of dormant daylilies are removed in autumn.

In regions with extremely severe or little snowy winters, daylilies are mulched, covered with spruce branches, straw, and rags. Also preparing for the winter and those plants that were planted or transplanted in August-September.

Daylilies are no problem. They are unpretentious, hardy, frost-resistant, durable. Decorate the garden with magnificent flowers and sandalwood-amber aroma. Oriental legends call daylilies "flowers of joy." And indeed it is.

Daylilies winterization shelter for the winter

Daylilies are not in vain called flowers, more suitable than others for lazy or those gardeners who cannot devote much time to their site. They can grow for ten years without any transplant, are able to bloom even in partial shade and take root on any soil.

But this does not mean that daylilies do not need care and care at all, such as, for example, preparation for winter. The vegetation process of most varieties does not end by autumn. The death of the leaves does not occur naturally, but under the influence of the first frost. But, fortunately, the frost resistance of daylily roots is almost not related to the stability of their aerial parts. Peduncles and leaves die already at a temperature of minus 3 ° C, but the roots are cold-resistant and hardy. Usually they easily tolerate even twenty-degree frosts.

Many gardeners simply leave the plants in the ground, without any cover. They believe that it is enough just to cut off the aerial part and remove the fallen leaves. For most varieties adapted to cold climates, this is quite enough when frosts do not exceed 25 ° C.

But ornamental evergreen daylilies and some semi-evergreen varieties require more careful handling. Their roots may not withstand the cold, especially if the thermometer drops below minus 30 ° C. Additional preparation for winter is also necessary for specimens planted in open ground in autumn months current year. Most likely, they have not yet had enough time to take root and will not survive the winter without outside help.

Dry peat, sawdust, hay, chopped straw or spruce branches can serve as a preventive shelter for daylilies. It is important not to put them in the flower bed too early. If the air temperature suddenly rises again, as often happens in autumn, there is a great possibility of damping out, which affects the condition of the plants much worse than a slight freezing. Therefore, before filling the flower beds with mulching materials, you should make sure that the cold has already been finally established.

Another way to ensure safe wintering of especially cold-sensitive varieties of daylilies is to dig up the rhizome. They do it as late as possible - at the very end of October or in November, depending on the weather and local climatic conditions. The roots extracted from the ground are placed in a cold place, in soil or sand, but so that they do not freeze. If the temperature drops below minus 35 ° C in winter, then this is the only way to save any, even the most cold-resistant plants. With such frosts, no one will help additional shelters. Digging also has to be resorted to where very little snow falls at fairly low winter temperatures.

The main disadvantage of this method is that it is necessary to remove the rhizomes from the ground very carefully. The slightest damage will cause the plant to die in the spring or, at best, not bloom. The second difficulty is the impossibility of landing at the most favorable time for growth, since in April, when daylilies usually sprout, the ground is often still frozen or not soft enough.

And yet, most daylilies do not require such extreme measures as extracting the rhizome and storing it indoors for a successful wintering. Some growers even leave their plants to overwinter right with their leaves. This could be considered correct, since the processes of photosynthesis continue until the first frosts, providing the roots with nutrients. In addition, dried stems and leaves help to retain snow. But in the spring there are enough worries even without cleaning the leaves, and left for a long time, they begin to rot.

Source: Indiasad. en

Monarda the most important thing about plant varieties growing from seeds planting and care in the open field

Monarda is an essential oil flower, the stems of the bush are straight, with jagged green leaves, during flowering many small inflorescences appear on the bush, and the smell from the plant intensifies, attracting bees.

Note. The plant is known as an essential oil plant, its green parts have a bergamot aroma (for which the monard is called bergamot) and are used for brewing. herbal tea.

The drink made from the leaves has a minty flavor and a citrus scent of bergamot, the herbal tea is known as Oswego tea. Like many of the ornamental plants, the monard came to Europe from North America. In the New World, the Indians prepared antipyretic drugs from medicinal herbs, applied them to wounds as an antiseptic, and took care of the oral cavity with aqueous solutions prepared from the leaves.

And now gardeners, on occasion, recall the healing properties of the plant, use its green parts, adding leaves to salads, meat dishes.

History reference. In Europe, they learned about the monard from the book of Nicholas Monardes, in which the botanist described new plants found in America. In the book, this flower is called "Canadian organ", "Verginsky soul". The name Monarda was given to the flower genus by Carl Linnaeus in honor of the author of the book N. Monardes, a doctor and botanist.

The essential oil flower spreads fragrance around itself during the entire time of growth, its citrus notes are liked by people, butterflies, bees. The smell repels harmful insects.

Useful fragrant plant grown in pots and open ground flower beds. The perennial reaches its greatest decorative effect by the 5th year of growth, when about 100 peduncles bloom simultaneously on a lush bush.

Species and varieties

To date, there are about 2 dozen species of monarda. Of these, the most common in horticulture received:

• Monarda lemon (Monarda citriodora). A fragrant plant, rich in essential oils, is used by gardeners as a culture for preparing spicy seasonings for salads and meat dishes. Fragrant leaves and flowers with a lemon-resinous smell and mint tint are added to tea, jams, kvass. The entire ground part of the bush is used in the production of wines, the essential oil obtained from the plant is added for aromatization in cosmetics. perennial monarda citrus bergamot is often grown as annual flower- tender leaves are good for tea, seasonings, dishes.

Due to the decorative properties of a flower with beautiful inflorescences, garden plots are decorated.

• Monarda double (Monarda didyma). Gardeners also get the two-in-one effect when growing this most popular type of flower. Made from ground parts, herbal tea has antipyretic and analgesic properties. A flower with bright inflorescences of dark and light shades red, white and purple-lilac with a pointed lush hat, the plant is used as an ornamental.

• Monarda fistulosa (Monarda fistulosa) It has a pronounced citrus aroma and is valued as an essential oil plant with medicinal properties. The plant is used for bactericidal effects, stimulate appetite, improve digestion. Young greens of the plant are added to salads, soups, tea, sauces, seasonings for meat, the ground parts of the bush are used to flavor wine (vermouth), prepare spicy seasonings, and in cosmetology. popular dwarf varieties of this kind.

In gardens, the flower is grown as an ornamental and honey plant, used to make bouquets. The fistulose monarda blooms for 2-3 years of growth with inflorescences of a delicate lilac color. The bush of an adult plant stretches up to 120 cm.

The flower is known as wild bergamot, horsemint.

Monarda varieties are common and in demand:

• Citrodera Harlequin. It is a compact annual plant with a delicate bergamot fragrance and flower stalk. original form composed of densely spaced inflorescences.

• Mona Lisa. An annual plant with dark purple-lilac inflorescences has a strong lemon aroma. It is recommended to grow for the preparation of spicy seasonings and for flavoring drinks and canned foods.

• Diana (Monarda citriodora). This perennial plant is planted as a medicinal, ornamental crop and for the preparation of seasonings, herbal tea, flavoring drinks. Varietal monarda blooms with beautiful pink-purple flowers, 5-6 inflorescences on each branch of the bush. The formed bush stretches to a height of 45 cm, its shoots are strong, with lanceolate leaves.

• Monarda hybrid (Monarda lambada) represented by varieties bred in Germany, the Netherlands. They exude the strongest aroma and are less demanding on growing conditions.

Note. Breeding work aimed at improving decorative properties flower and obtaining green mass with a high content of essential oils. her in industrial scale used, in addition to cooking and cosmetology, for the preparation of homeopathic formulations.

Means in homeopathic doses with Monarda help in the treatment of otitis, cystitis, pneumonia, psoriasis, bronchitis.

Due to its antibacterial properties, the plant is used to prevent the formation of black mold.

Hybrid monarda varieties are popular - with white flowers Schneewittchen, with red Cambridge Scarlet, Balance. A variety with purple-purple inflorescences of Blaustrumpi, with pink Cratly Pink, with lilac Elsieys Lavender, with burgundy Praerienachr is in demand.

Grade Schneewittchen

• Panorama Mix. The variety is obtained from a double moranda. Popular in that it retains its decorative effect for a long time, flower stalks from small inflorescences different shades red and purple colors delight during flowering. In place of faded inflorescences, nut-boxes with seeds are formed, which enliven the autumn, sometimes winter, landscape. Flowers are grown for cutting, used in landscape design.

• Terry "Fairy Tale". Winter-hardy variety valued as an ornamental plant with inflorescences of a rare pale amethyst color and a delicate honey-mint aroma emanating from the whole bush. The perennial grows rapidly, bushes well, blooms in the second half of summer, blooms profusely.

The variety is also grown for its medicinal, flavoring, honey-bearing properties.

Growing from seed

Monardu is planted in open ground with seeds at the end of spring when stable warm weather has already established ( optimum temperature for seed germination + 20 ° C) and frosts are not expected, to a depth of 2 cm. In order to sow the seed evenly, sand is mixed with the seeds.

The sprouted plants grow slowly, when leaves appear on the plant, the sowing is thinned out, leaving the plants at a distance of 10 cm. At the next thinning, the interval between developing bushes is increased by 2 times. When planted with seeds, the bush does not bloom in the first year of life.

Can At the end of March, in April, sow seeds for seedlings. Shoots after 2 weeks of development should dive. After a stable heat is established, the seedlings are planted, keeping the distance between plants 30 cm, and between rows up to 70 cm.

Landing

Monardas choose a sunny place for planting or with light partial shade, protected from the wind. The soil should be fertile and well retaining moisture.

The flower is moisture-loving, so it needs regular watering. To retain moisture in areas with dry, hot summers, it is recommended to mulch the soil.

Care during the growing season

A plant that is undemanding in care must be watered and fed with complex nitrogen-containing fertilizers to quickly gain green mass. It is also necessary to feed the monard during flowering. The bush diluted in water should be watered regularly after 2 weeks.

Autumn care and preparation for winter

In the autumn, the bush is fed with potash and phosphorus fertilizers of prolonged action. Dry granules are placed shallowly in the soil under the bush, they slowly dissolve with water. The nutrient composition accumulates in the roots by spring and stimulates the rapid development of the plant with abundant flowering next year.

Diseases, pests, problems

Flower winter-hardy, unpretentious to growing conditions, resistant to diseases. Thanks to essential oils root system, it repels pests living in the soil, and the aromas of the ground part repel insects that feed on green mass.

Rarely the bush can be affected Fungal rust, tobacco mosaic virus, weevil. When a flower is susceptible to downy mildew disease, it can be seen from the leaves. Their greenery with a cloudy coating indicates a disease. Often this happens during dry hot days from lack of moisture.

To maintain high decorative properties of a flower, it is necessary to maintain soil moisture that is comfortable for the plant and provide prevention from diseases and pests.

In the spring, before the intensive growth of the bush, and in the fall, before wintering, it is good to spray the plant with a solution of copper sulphate or foundationol.

Application in landscape design

Disease-resistant monarda is used in flower beds of garden plots, in landscape design of park areas. The flower tolerates the harsh winter conditions of Russia well without or with light shelter. Monarda decorate lawns, flowers are planted along the fence, used in the design of hedges, grown for cutting.

With the Monarda, the flower garden acquires bright accent and becomes fragrant. Mixborders successfully combine the North American beauty with:

Decorative polynyas; Yarrow; Roses of different shades; Rudbeckia; goldenrod; Poskonnik; Heliopsis; Perennial phloxes; Bells; large chamomile; curly beans; Climbing nasturtium; Perennial asters.

A perennial plant can be supplemented with annuals - cosmos, zinnia.

Composition with hostas, nasturtium, daylilies is appropriate in semi-shady places. Monarda - as a bright accent.

Bright mixborder with Monarda. One can argue about whether these two bright shades are appropriate here.

A very good option for a mixed border.

Monarda and rudbeckia.

Monarda goes well with astilba.

The highlight of this flower bed is the combination of vertical and horizontal spots, sharp lines of bulbous flowers and herbs, and soft surfaces created by stonecrop.

Where to buy seeds

Monarda seeds are not uncommon and are widely represented in online stores, sowing material can be ordered and bought with delivery by mail.

Review on video

About the decorative and taste properties of the plant - in the review on the video from the Dacha TV channel.

Flower eremurus planting and care varieties and varieties wintering

The most spectacular of the varieties for plant growers are considered.

Achison

A species distributed in the mountainous part and in the territory of mixed forests of Afghanistan, in the Pamirs, Western Tien Shan. It is early flowering, the first flowers open in April, and the growing season is not long.

The outlet has an average of 25 elongated green sheets. The peduncle reaches 120 cm, an inflorescence is formed on it in the form of a brush, the diameter of which is 15-16 cm. On such a bush, 150-280 buds appear during the growing season. The tone of the inflorescence is usually white, pink and dark red.

Powerful

It grows on rocky slopes, has a developed rhizome and sparse leaves. The color of the bush is dark green, covered with a bluish bloom on top. Height 100-120 cm, inflorescence on a straight strong stem, with 1000 pink, milky bell-like flowers.

Alberta

Mountain variety of perennial. The height of the bush reaches 120 cm, the leaves are bare, straight, dark green. The inflorescence on a smooth stem grows up to 60 cm, has an interesting color: white corollas surround reddish-brick perianths and stamens.

Olga

This species is distinguished by large flowers and a dense, lush inflorescence. The plant grows up to 150 cm and has a white color with a slightly milky pink tint.

Cleopatra

Very bright "tail of the desert", with dense, dense inflorescences of fiery color. Bush height 110-120 cm.

Himalayan

View with white flowers. It grows mainly in mountainous areas, reaching 130 cm in height.

Altaic

A bush with bright yellow inflorescences, grows in Altai and is an excellent honey plant.

Bunge

A tall species, up to 170 cm high, found naturally in Iran and Afghanistan. Narrow lanceolate foliage covered with a bluish bloom. Flower brush consists of 400-600 golden - yellow flowers. It looks great both in the composition of bouquets in cut form, and in dried compositions.

Pinocchio

The variety that appeared in 1989 has a height of up to 150 cm. The color is dusty yellow, with bright red stamens.

Obelisk

It appeared a long time ago, in 1956, the species grows up to 150 cm, has an interesting color: white leaves and bright green centers.

Crimean

Often found on the Crimean peninsula, in Yalta. These are tall flowers with narrow green leaves and delicate white flowers.

Growing from seed

In order to propagate the "Cleopatra's needle" by seeds, you need to wait from 4 to 7 years after planting the plant, since it blooms immediately. In August, flower stalks are cut, laid out in a well-ventilated shady place for ripening, and then seeds are collected from them.

The best seed material is obtained from the bottom of the inflorescence. Therefore, they are often cut off at the top by a third.

It is best to sow shiryash in the first months of autumn in two ways: immediately in a flower garden or in small containers 20 cm deep:

• In the first method, shallow furrows of about 15 mm are made in flowerbeds and seeds are sown in them, lightly sprinkled with earth and watered well;
• In the second method, planting material is spread over the surface of the potting mix, slightly deepening. Sprinkle a layer of soil on top and water. The first shoots appear for a very long time: from 30 to 360 days.

The ideal temperature for germination is 15 degrees. Seedlings need to be watered much more often than mature plants. Young sprouts can be picked up for transplanting at about the stage of formation of 3-4 leaves, they are transplanted into separate pots until the next winter.

For the time of cold weather, they are often transplanted into containers and covered with a layer of leaves of 25-30 cm, and planted in a permanent place in the fall, when the young seedlings finally get stronger and gain strength. Growing and caring for an eremurus flower obtained from seeds is not difficult, but it requires clear actions from the gardener.

Transplanting culture into the ground

You can see how the eremurus flower is planted, and how to further organize care for it, on numerous photos on the Internet. Young plants are planted in open ground in a permanent place in accordance with varietal characteristics.

First of all, landing requires Himalayan, Yellow, Alberta, Achison, Powerful. Then - Revel, Red, Red.

The best time to move the seedlings is September, at which time it will have time to take root, get stronger and be well prepared for the start of the growing season in the spring.

Initially, you need to prepare a place for landing. "Shrysh" loves breathable, well-drained soil, and if your flower beds do not have such qualities, it is worth adding pebbles or crushed stone to the soil.

The place should be spacious, well lit, the flowers in the sunlight are much brighter and larger than their counterparts grown in a shaded area. If there are often strong winds in the area, supports are made near the bushes. High "sparklers" are planted on the back handicap of flower beds or inside flower beds.

A layer of nutrient soil mixture of about 45-50 cm is laid on a layer with large particles (drainage). The best soil for the growth and development of bushes will be slightly alkaline and neutral. It includes turf land, humus, large river sand, wood ash and pebbles.

The soil mixture is well fertilized with rotted compost.

For each sprout, a hole is made 30 cm deep, the seedlings are very carefully taken out without damaging the root system along with a clod of earth. The “Cleopatra needle” is placed in the hole, the roots are carefully straightened and the free space is covered with soil so that there are no voids left.

It is necessary to try to maintain a distance of 45 cm between the planting pits, and make the row spacing within 60 cm, so that in the future the bushes do not obscure each other and do not interfere with growth. Then the transplanted plant is watered abundantly.

How to properly care for perennials?

Planting and caring for an eremurus flower requires the observance of some agricultural practices when caring for:

Watering is necessary frequent, but not too plentiful. It is especially important during the dry period and during flowering. But during prolonged rains or after flowering, watering should be reduced.

The perennial responds gratefully to systematic top dressing. In autumn the most the best option there will be a choice of superphosphates. 35 g of the mixture is applied per 1 square meter of soil. In the spring, before awakening, top dressing is required with standard complex fertilizers for flowering "desert tails" at the rate of 60 g per 1 sq. m.

For abundant flowering in the bud setting phase, growers apply nitrogen fertilizers under the root.

Throughout the growing season, the soil around the bush is loosened, weeds are removed. This must be done with care so as not to damage the rhizome.

Withered branches cut off yellow leaves and faded buds are removed.

Varieties resistant to low temperatures well protected from frost. It can be peat, spruce branches, foliage or manure with a wide layer of 15 cm. And in the first months of spring, the “insulation” is removed. Mulching helps protect the roots from frost. And in order to protect themselves from rodents around the bushes, sprigs of wormwood are laid out and fixed from a strong wind with stones to the ground.

Diseases and pests

"Shrysh" is resistant to both diseases and pests, but sometimes suffers from aphids, thrips, mice, moles. The most common diseases are rust, viral and fungal diseases, chlorosis.

The fight against slugs is the simplest. Wood shavings, spruce needles, nettles, strong-smelling herbs, and special traps are laid out around the rhizomes.

Get rid of aphids with the help of water spraying with the addition of special preparations.

Mice and other rodents cope well with various folk ways with the use of strong-smelling herbs, kerosene and the proximity to plants that mice like and use poison baits.

Numerous preparations that can be bought at any specialized store or made independently are fighting moles; such mixtures affect the highly developed sense of smell of animals and prevent them from entering the site. Instead of drugs, acoustic deterrent methods are widely used.

Rust appears as brown spots on stems and leaves. The disease develops especially strongly in humid and warm weather, and if the “tail of the desert” is not treated in time, it may die. To get rid of rust, fungicides are used: Barrier, Fitospirin.

Pests often bring not only direct harm, but also indirect in the form of the transfer of viral diseases. You can determine the presence of such a disease by the appearance of the foliage: it fades, becomes bumpy, uneven, even sometimes changes shape.

There are no control measures yet, the main thing is to carry out prevention and fight pests in time.

Chlorosis leads to yellowing and blanching of the foliage. But the disease has a greater impact on the root system and, first of all, they save it. For this, the bush is dug up, inspected, the damaged parts are surprised. Healthy rhizomes are dried, sprinkled with ashes and planted again in the soil.

Perennial care after flowering and winter preparation

By the end of July or August, the seed pods ripen at the bush and all foliage dries up. This means the onset of a period of summer dormancy. This time is the most difficult to care for perennials, as it becomes sensitive to waterlogging of the soil.

To save the bushes, summer residents make high flower beds with good drainage, and this is enough. But for some varieties the best way preservation is considered to be digging and drying in a dry, dark room.

This should be done with care, trying not to damage the rhizomes. Or they build shelters from the rain above it in a flower garden, cover the soil with a film. This is a good way out, but such “arbors” often look inappropriate and spoil the appearance of the flower garden.

Eremurus overwinter well without shelter and protection from frost, but more favorable conditions are created for heat-loving species. To do this, the soil is covered with a thick layer of peat or manure for the winter. The rhizomes dug out in the summer should not be stored until spring, since when planted they immediately start growing and can die from the slightest frost.

It is better to cover with covering material or put spruce branches on top of the peat if the winters in the region are cold and snowless.

Eremurus are spectacular plants that go well with many flowers and are suitable for decoration. suburban area or garden, look harmoniously on alpine hills and lawns with annuals and perennials. Desert flowers are easy to care for, and your hard work will pay off with vibrant blooms that will spice up any garden.

Watch the video on how the eremurus flower is planted, and how to organize its care.

Luxurious flowers of the Liliaceae family do not require special conditions and constant care, but they need to be given a little attention in anticipation of cold weather. Proper care of daylilies in the fall will reward the summer resident with abundant flowering and excellent growth next year.

Autumn is a good time for transplanting or dividing a lily bush. Being engaged in restoring order in flower beds, the owners usually feed perennial plants, prepare them for the difficult time of cold weather. Healthy growth and summer blooms often depend on gardeners knowing how to properly winterize daylilies. Mandatory event is the pruning of leaves. This will protect the plants from pathogenic bacteria, and will destroy the pests that intend to spend the winter under their foliage.

All daylilies (sleeping, semi-evergreen, evergreen) must be cut off the leaves if a harsh winter is expected. In the south, the leaves of dormant varieties have time to lie down and dry quietly before the arrival of real cold weather. In winter, they serve as a natural shelter, they can even be left until spring, although many growers prefer to cut them.

The best time for pruning

The time of decisive pruning of daylilies for winter depends on the climate, that is, on the region. This usually happens in October or November, until the last moment the leaves continue the process of photosynthesis, which allows the roots to build up strength. It is necessary to cut off when the thermometer column will no longer rapidly rush upward from zero. After all, if you remove the leaves early, and then the heat returns again, then the plant will try to grow the aerial part, will begin to spend all the accumulated strength, the awakened buds will suffer from real cold weather. If you are late with pruning, then the leaves may begin to rot, the rot will freely pass to the root collar - this is how the entire bush may die.

Flower shoots are harvested as they fade. If autumn is rainy, then wet untidy flowers are cut off without waiting for this moment. The final pruning of the leaves is carried out when frosts inevitably approach. The usual dates for the arrival of winter for each region are known, and it is worth focusing on them. Some summer residents carry out this procedure with the arrival of the first frost.

Trimming technique

With a sharp disinfected secateurs, the leaves are cut at a height of 10-15 cm from the ground. Then they must be taken away from the site, destroyed. If you cut the bush at ground level, it will look more aesthetic, but dormant buds may start growing, which is completely unacceptable. Pruning the lush aerial parts of plants will get rid of such unpleasant pests as slugs, which usually strive to overwinter under the canopy of thick long leaves.

Video: "How to grow and propagate daylilies"

In this video, an expert will tell you how to properly grow and propagate daylilies.

Features of preparing daylilies for winter

The usual preparation of perennials for cold weather includes watering, fertilizing, pruning, sheltering. Lilies should be watered only in a very dry autumn, their roots calmly accumulate moisture for a long time, so they do not need autumn moisture-charging watering.

It is best to feed the bushes in September - this will help new plants take root after division and transplantation, will enable the roots to absorb useful substances that will make it easier to endure frosts. You can use dry substances: horse manure, bird droppings, mullein. They are laid out around the base of the bush, then lightly buried in the soil by loosening. If liquid fertilizers are applied, then they are poured into pre-prepared grooves around the circumference of the bushes.

Potassium-phosphorus mineral fertilizers help the flowers to overwinter very well, they are scattered around the roots, slightly mixed with the soil. Phosphorus is necessary for young bushes to take root easier. Most importantly, when autumn feeding- do not get carried away with nitrogen, so as not to provoke the growth of new leaves.

Quantity mineral fertilizers determined according to the instructions. After making dry dressings, the earth is watered. If you didn’t stock up on fertilizers in advance, it doesn’t matter, you can use wood ash.

With the onset of frost, the plants are insulated. Whether it is necessary to specially cover the daylily for the winter depends on the degree of its frost resistance and climatic conditions. Expecting moderate cold weather, it is enough to put 5-10 cm of mulch. Peat, straw, dry leaves, spruce branches, crushed pine bark are used for it. The colder it is in winter, the thicker it is necessary to organize a layer of mulch, it is brought up to 15-20 cm. If a frosty snowless winter is expected, then it is worth covering with lutrasil or other non-woven material.

Secrets and nuances of a successful wintering

In order for the daylily to winter calmly, you need to carefully, and most importantly, timely carry out all the activities of autumn preparation for the cold. When fertilizing, it is important not only not to get carried away with nitrogen-containing dressings, but not to overdo it with their total amount.

When looking for material for mulch, it is best not to use mowed grass. She will become good insulation, but it will definitely add work in spring and summer - it usually contains a lot of weed seeds, which will certainly germinate on fertilized soil with the arrival of heat.

Collector from Minsk Alexander Leonovich answers

Today we continue the theme of daylilies, which occupy a significant area on Alexander's site. But he annually renews his collection by about twenty varieties, trying and "taming" new ones.

Trim or not trim?

Do I need to shorten the roots and trim the leaves when planting, as is often done with seedlings? And is it possible to shorten the leaves after flowering, for example, by a third, so that they consume less water and do not shade their neighbors?

It is not necessary to shorten the roots, they are already cut off when digging, and I shorten the leaves. But others, for example, famous Ukrainian flower growers - the Kharchenko family - do not cut them. And they say that when transplanting, in principle, you do not need to do this, since any plant itself will “discard” everything that it does not need. How much the root can feed, so many stems and leaves will remain. That is why, for example, not the entire sheet, but half of it, may dry out. This means that the part that remains green is still needed by the plant.

Of course, with uncut leaves, plantings look untidy.

Trimming, even partially in order to preserve moisture, is a bad idea, weakening the plant. Some recommend removing the pour from a diseased bush, I don’t do this. I treat the ground part with the appropriate preparation, and remove the leaves only in the spring. This is necessary so that all the nutrition that they have, the plant uses completely. And even more so you can not cut them in the summer. Even if it is very necessary for aesthetic purposes, cut only as it yellows. In addition, the leaves retain moisture. Covering the soil from the sun. Peduncles also do not need to be removed, only the tops so that the seeds do not set.

- Do daylilies need to cut their leaves in winter?

By the way, in species with wintering leaves and semi-evergreens, I would advise you to remove untimely flower stalks. The fact is that these plants do not have a pronounced dormant period. Accordingly, for them, as it were, there are no times of the year - when they grow, bloom. They can throw out flower stalks constantly, making only short "breaks". But this is the trouble with winter-green varieties in our zone. Plants do not have time to prepare for the winter and during the time of continuous flowering "run out of steam". So inexperienced flower growers have questions: the daylily bloomed so beautifully, why did it die? It must be understood that the plant works, gives its energy for flowering and reproduction.

I myself, starting from mid-summer (at the end, necessarily), remove flower stalks that are untimely for our zone, otherwise they will destroy the plant. It is important to make a choice: momentary beauty or lifelong. By the way, if these peduncles are placed in a vase with water, almost all the flowers will gradually open.

Wintering

- Do I need to cover terry varieties for the winter? Or only all young, newly planted?

I haven't hidden anything for several years now. Previously tried to use spunbond, straw. But this is a double-edged sword. I like spunbond, but early in the spring, still frozen, it is impossible to remove it. And you can’t leave it until thawing either - under cover, the plant begins to rot. Under the straw "pillow" daylilies are fine, but its "cleaning from fifty acres takes a lot of time. And in small areas it is quite possible to use it, and more than one year.

Young delenki, even planted in the fall, can normally survive the winter without shelter. I have had cases when dug out newest tetraploids, due to regrading, remained to winter on the ground, simply piled up, with bare roots. With the advent of spring, seeing that they were still alive, and the hand did not rise to throw away, he planted them not in a common array, but in the front garden. “Prodigal” lilies grow there until the variety is determined. Even such delenki quickly "grab" the roots of the soil and then grow magnificently.

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How long can a daylily be left in one place in the garden? And is it possible to separate the outlet without digging up the whole plant, because if the bush is large, this is a whole problem?

The lifespan of a plant in one place depends on its variety. There are growing very slowly. And if there are already 20-30 outlets in the bush, it is better to transplant it, while dividing it, otherwise the flowering will fade. If you want to leave it in its original place, at least cut off half of the bush, and fill the hole with fresh soil. And remember, the more part of the bush you leave to yourself, the faster you will have to divide it.

It is easy to separate the division if you work with tub specimens: you shake it out of the container, divide it - and go there again. Here you can use the experience of foreign flower growers. They - even breeders - grow daylilies exclusively in pots (only seedlings - in open ground). The capacity for planting, of course, must be at least a bucket volume (preferably more), with drainage holes. After planting, fertilize, and the daylily will begin to grow like in a fairy tale! And it blooms no worse than in open ground.

For the winter, for your own peace of mind, the tub can be covered with dry leaves, sawdust, or dug.

-Are daylilies easy to grow even on a balcony?

Of course, here you can also pay attention to varieties that bloom more than once. After all, a jade or two plants will decorate the balcony and winter there without any problems. In order for the plants to experience less stress on an open balcony or loggia, in autumn the pot can be placed on a wooden base, wrapped in a paper bag or crumpled newspapers (especially late-flowering varieties). In such conditions, they will not have to be replanted annually, rather, once every two or three years, but this also depends specifically on each variety.

About diseases

What are daylilies sick with? For example, my tetraploid grows normally after winter, and then rots, the leaves fall off. After a while, young ones appear. I treated it with Bordeaux liquid in the spring, the daylily even bloomed that year, but it develops poorly.

Usually daylilies do not get sick. Sometimes they appear gray leaf spot, rust. However, I did not observe catastrophic cases in my practice and with familiar flower growers. Indeed, Bordeaux liquid helps in this case. If you are processing shrubs or roses, do not be too lazy to spray a problem specimen of daylily, iris and other plants prone to such diseases. By doing this in the spring two or three years in a row, you will help the daylily grow stronger and grow a bush.

According to the magazine "Flower"

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