What care do strawberries need after the harvest is completed. Pruning strawberries and spring garden care - tips from experienced gardeners

Many gardeners like to grow irises on their plots. The flower is incredibly decorative, has many shapes and colors. However, to make him happy long years, needed proper care and pruning.

Why prune irises

This is a perennial that requires careful pruning. During the period of growth and flowering, he needs to remove above-ground parts repeatedly. When to prune irises:

• the leaves turned yellow and covered with spots;
• the flowering period is over;
• end of autumn and beginning of frosts;
• care requirements for certain varieties.

Each of the reasons implies its own technique and timing when to cut irises. In addition, there are two types of these flowers that require different care.

Why prune irises

rhizomatous

Their maintenance is minimal. Remove yellow and dried leaves, if necessary. In the fall, you can not prune, unless there are good reasons for this. These varieties have exotic species with showy flowers- their fan of leaves is removed halfway closer to autumn.

Bulbous

More demanding in care. They are distinguished by the presence of bulbous rhizomes. After such varieties fade, it is necessary to cut off their entire aerial part. The roots of the bulbs are left and try not to damage - this can lead to the death of the flower. Planting material is dried and planted again in the fall in the ground. In the northern regions, the flower is planted in the spring so that the plant does not freeze out in winter.

When to prune leaves

Pruning is done in case of transplantation or reproduction of a flower. At the same time, the leaves are cut almost completely, leaving about a third of the length. Thus, water is retained in the roots for better survival.

When to prune leaves

If you want to detach the young roots, then there is no need to touch the entire rhizome completely. The necessary part is detached with a shovel, and the remaining part is sprinkled with earth. Watering after the procedure is not required.

Note! It is better to postpone pruning and transplanting until the evening when the sun does not bake.

When to cut the leaves of irises - a few days before the proposed transplant. It is not recommended to touch them during flowering, all procedures are performed after 3-4 weeks. The plant will restore the forces that have gone into the formation of peduncles, and will form more rudiments of young rhizomes.

When the seeds ripen, the bushes also need pruning. After the flower withers, seeds appear in the receptacle. Each variety is capable of propagating by seeds, and for some this is the only way. All flower stalks are cut off, but if they want to propagate the plant, they leave one, removing parts of the bush that have already dried up.

There are varieties that have seeds with a very decorative look. In this case, dried buds are removed without touching the flower. Iris stink has the seeds of a beautiful orange color, and Belamkanda has black showy seeds.

Is it possible to cut irises in July

The flower begins to bloom one of the first, but depending on the variety, these terms also vary. By flowering plants are divided into groups:

• early - bloom in May;
• mid-early - flowering closer to the beginning of June;
• medium - during June;
• late - in the first half of July.

Is it possible to cut irises in July

Some varieties bloom twice in one season - in spring and then in autumn. Thus, in July, when the iris has faded, its flower stalks are cut off. This is done so that the plant does not expend energy on seeds, but directs all the energy to the buds that have not yet blossomed.

Additional Information. Removal of dry elements gives more decorative look, this is the way how you can update the irises.

There are varieties that are very easy to sown if the peduncle is not removed - this leads to a dense planting in the flower bed. It makes it worse appearance and creates a deficit nutrients in the main plant.

Flowers are also pruned during flowering. It's done sharp knife, subject to the following recommendations:

• buds that have faded and have a green receptacle are removed;
• when flowering occurs in the active phase, it is important to preserve the buds;
• after the flower has lost its decorative appearance, it is cut at a distance of 2.5 cm from the ground.

Do not remove leaves during flowering or immediately after. It can even lead to the death of the plant. When the foliage is cut off from irises, only completely yellow or dried tips are removed. At correct pruning a green fan will decorate the flower bed all summer.

Important! Do not fertilize during the flowering period.

Varieties that bloom twice a year require mandatory pruning of stems and leaves. When cutting irises is required for a bouquet, the cut is made almost at the root, without damaging it.

pruning in autumn

In autumn, pruning is necessary for flowers - this is how the plant prepares for the adverse conditions of winter. The procedure is carried out before frosts in October - the leaves are removed. There are a few tips on how to prune irises in the fall:

• cut the foliage with a cone, so there will be less moisture on the surface;
• leaves up to 15 cm tall do not touch;
• when pruning irises, the removed parts must be burned;
• rhizomes are covered with a layer of earth;
• if winter is a small amount snow, then the flowers cover completely.

Thus, when it is time to cut irises for the winter depends on the region of cultivation. Some frosts may come earlier.

This is a very common plant with many species, so each grower has his own secrets in caring for him. Here are some flower care tips:

• So that after flowering the leaves do not turn yellow, planting material pre-soaked in blue vitriol. This procedure keeps the plant green until the frost;
• Only acquired varieties are planted during the period of their acquisition, and existing bushes are planted in early August. At the same time, the planting material is dried for a couple of days and embedded in the soil with a rhizome to the south;
• In order to quickly propagate the desired variety, they take a rhizome and cut it in two places to a depth of about 1 cm. Then they dry it a little and plant it. Such a plant produces about 6-7 children. It is important to prepare a landing site, fertilize and moisten it well. Children are separated from the main bush with a small part of the mother liquor - so young plants will have more nutrients.

Strawberries are the earliest ripening berry, widespread and popular. It is fast-growing and relatively simple and easy to propagate. To get a rich harvest, you need good care.

Why is pruning needed?

Pruning is one of the agricultural techniques for caring for berries. But along with the view that pruning prepares strawberries for next season's harvest, there is another that calls into question the effectiveness of pruning. In summer, strawberries vigorously grow foliage, which is directly involved in the formation of those buds from which berries will be tied in the future. Many are interested in why it is necessary to cut strawberries.

Green and saturated color leaves remain only during the growing season, lasting about two months. Then the aging leaves turn yellow, dry out, stains form on them, and resistance to diseases and pests decreases.

Pruning helps strawberries achieve the following goals:

• fix the roots, since all the necessary nutrients will be absorbed only by the roots, and not spent on the foliage; they will become longer, stronger, roots will grow from the sides and the total mass of the roots will increase;
• make higher cold resistance;
• remove possible harmful insects located on the foliage;
• partially get rid of pathogens of various infections of a fungal or bacterial nature;
• rejuvenates the bush, helps the formation of young and healthy leaves, the ability to high fruiting.

When pruning, leaves and whiskers are removed. But the mustache is cut off if there is no need for its reproduction. Whiskers that are not removed make the plantation densely overgrown, which ultimately leads to a decrease in yield. Opponents' opinions are based on the fact that the leaves are an additional source of nutrition for the roots. Cutting them will change the course of photosynthesis and the process of oxygen absorption, which will affect the growth and development of berries.

This is true, but only applies to young bushes whose foliage is not damaged by pests or diseases and retains freshness and juiciness throughout the growing season. Strawberries of the third and fourth years of life require pruning. Cutting the foliage does not harm the strawberry, as it has the ability to quickly restore it.

Negative factors cuts can be considered as follows:

• with improper cutting, you can also remove the buds in which future berries are laid, which will lead to a decrease in yield;
• a real strawberry rosette may not have time to form in time for the cold and the bush will freeze in winter;
• with a large-scale rot disease or the presence of many insects, pruning the leaves will not help, because when pruning, the spores of pathogens fall into the soil, where they successfully survive the winter and take on a stable form; in the spring they activate their vital activity;
• in the next season, the berries ripen somewhat later, although their number increases.

Timing

Foliage renewal in strawberries happens 3 times during the growing season: in spring, summer and autumn. The period of life of its foliage is about 70 days, then comes the time of aging. Multi-colored spots on them are a sign of the aging process, which is accompanied by the intake of nutrients from the strawberry bush, thereby depleting it. Pruning strawberry leaves can also be carried out in three stages, each of them has its own characteristics.

spring pruning

Spring foliage growth is the basis for future fruiting. survived cold winter, by spring, even healthy and strong strawberries lose some of their foliage, as it is damaged by frost. Remove it in the spring. Pruning is done in early spring according to weather conditions from the end of March to the middle of April. And in May, before flowering, the mustache formed in autumn is removed. The purpose of spring pruning is to renew strawberry bushes.

If there are rotten, dry, diseased or simply damaged leaves on the bushes, they are carefully cut off, without touching the young leaves and unblown buds, so as not to harm the flower stalks and not lose the crop. Thus, pruning in the spring clears strawberry bushes from spoiled green mass, which prevents the formation of food reserves for future berries. Spring pruning is selective and is carried out only as needed, subject to summer and autumn pruning.

It does not affect the amount of harvest, but cutting overwintered foliage with possible pests will be a preventive measure against them.

summer cut

The second stage of growth and development of foliage occurs after the end of fruiting. This is the time of formation of flowering buds of the next season and accumulation useful substances. Pruning is carried out after the completion of the harvest in July and is a preventive measure against insects and infections, and is also considered the most effective. During the time remaining until winter, strawberry bushes will have time to form new young leaves and flower buds, to accumulate useful substances.

They will thoroughly prepare for the winter and better endure the unfavorable period. In the summer, pruning dates come in a week - 10 days after the full completion of fruiting. AT middle lane deadlines are in mid-August.

pruning in autumn

The autumn growth of the green mass of strawberries is the basis of its successful wintering and the purpose of the autumn cut. Pruning is done in advance before the onset of cold weather, the best time is from the last decade of August to September, when several new sheets still have time to grow. You need to cut only dry and damaged leaves, without touching the center of the bush. Pruning in the fall has several benefits.

The development cycle of strawberries and the basis of future berries are formed in the fall. At this time, the laying of generative buds continues, the accumulation of sucrose and nutrients in the stems, and the activity of pests stops. Properly carried out pruning will allow you to move on to wintering with strong young leaves, with flowering buds planted for the future harvest. It is mandatory if in the summer the care for strawberries was not very good.

Important! Strawberry pruning should not be carried out during the formation of buds and ovaries, during the fruiting period, and also in late autumn.

Process details

Pruning in the spring involves cutting foliage and whiskers. Strawberry beds after the onset of heat are inspected to detect any damage. Some equipment is required for pruning: a sharp pruner (you can use scissors), a rake and small size hoe. In spring, only damaged, dry, diseased leaves can be cut. When cutting, you need to leave the stem 5–7 cm long from the outlet. It is not necessary to remove too many leaves in the spring, otherwise the strawberries will use up nutrients on the growth of new leaves to the detriment of the development of flowers, and then the ovaries. Healthy leaves must be preserved and left at least five.

It is necessary to adhere to the following sequence of pruning:

• dry and old leaves, as well as with any damage, or those that grow with a slope, or lying on the ground, must be cut with a sharp secateurs;
• they also mow underdeveloped leaves and with deformation, because they will block the sun and access fresh air to berries;
• the whiskers are removed if there is no need to propagate strawberries, they can be cut only 7–10 cm from the outlet, after which they are removed from the soil; they resort to using a chopper if the mustache sits firmly in the ground, and only the strongest mustaches are chosen for strawberry propagation - these are mustaches from an annual bush of the first or second position from it;
• together with pruning, weeding of the plantation is carried out in order to provide light and air access to the bushes, because the size and quality of the fruit depends on this;
• it is better to burn the tops collected with a rake, since harmful insects that hibernated on the foliage will die in the fire;
• then the soil on the ridge must be well loosened, which will allow water and air to freely penetrate to the roots; for loosening between the beds, a small chopper is used and loosened quite deeply.

Important! Loosening is carried out directly under the bush with a blunt iron pin. This must be done very carefully, since the strawberry roots are superficial, located no deeper than 4 cm from the surface and can be easily damaged. Closer than ten centimeters to the strawberry outlet can not be approached.

Inexperienced gardeners often make such mistakes when spring pruning, as:

• mow strawberry bushes instead of selectively cutting leaves;
• violate the integrity of the outlet with a sloppy haircut;
• cause damage to the roots when loosening;
• carry out too short cutting of leaves and whiskers.

Important! Proper pruning in the spring will only improve the illumination, aeration of the beds, and reduce the risk of diseases and pests.

The meaning of pruning in the summer is the removal of numerous mustaches. After that, the nutrients will be sent to the foliage, they will strengthen and prepare for winter. From the end of June they begin to regularly inspect strawberry beds. If signs of disease or pest damage are found, the leaves and mustache are cut off with secateurs. Usually you can cut strawberries only after fruiting is complete: the end of July or the beginning of August.

Cut only the leaves, do not remove the stems. This is done as follows: leaving a stem up to 7 cm long, cut the top of the strawberry bush, collecting it and holding it with the other hand. So, the center of growth of the bush, the key to the future harvest, remains untouched.

Important! The summer pruning methods are similar to the spring pruning methods, after which the plantation is loosened in the summer.

At the beginning of autumn, usually in September, all weak and damaged leaves and mustaches, as well as extra first-year bushes, are cut off. On the abandoned first-years and adult bushes, dry, yellow and leaves on the soil are cut off. Adult strawberries require thinning of the bush: stems are removed from the middle of the rosette, leaving about 8 stems. Cutting should be neat, at a height of up to two centimeters from the outlet, to avoid damage to the generative buds. It is impossible to cut strawberries completely in autumn.

For trimming strawberries at any time better fit dry, not rainy weather, it is advisable to do this in the morning or evening. You can not tear the leaves with your hands, pull out the mustache, so as not to damage the entire bush. Pruning should begin with beds with young and healthy plants, moving on to older ones. If there are diseased beds, they are the last to take care of them, and the equipment used is then disinfected.

Pruning remontant strawberries

Remontant strawberry, fruiting all summer, also requires pruning. The peculiarity of pruning this type of strawberry is that it is selective and is produced during the fruiting period. Throughout the season, the beds are regularly viewed and only the damaged parts of the plant and the stems from which the ripe berries were harvested are removed. Some varieties require thinning. It is produced in early spring. All stems are cut off, leaving only 8. The whiskers are regularly removed when picking berries so that the energy reserve goes to the formation of new berries.

Aftercare

Properly performed pruning can bring success, provided that it is well cared for afterward. The berry should not lack moisture and nutrients. Therefore, after pruning, it is necessary to water it. the best way watering is drip irrigation or the use of sprinklers in the form of turntables. Watering should be regular and moderate. First, water each or every other day until it starts active growth young foliage.

Effective and organic mixtures of bird droppings and manure, namely:

• daily infusion of chicken manure (200 g) is diluted in 10 liters of water, this mixture is applied to the aisles;
• manure solution - a quarter of a bucket is filled with mullein, poured with water and infused for 3 days, then the contents are again diluted in a ratio of 1: 4; the consumption of the mixture is 10 liters per 1 sq. m.

After summer pruning, it is important to carry out preventive spraying against pests and infections; this procedure is repeated three days later. When harmful insects are detected, the Inta-vir insecticidal agent is used, spraying it twice. At this time, strawberries are also fed using complex fertilizers, as well as nitrogen agents and saltpeter. Very effective for strengthening strawberries is such a three-time dressing, such as:

• the first time immediately after cutting the foliage - nitrogen fertilizers are applied a lot and in liquid form, or dry chicken manure (1 Matchbox) under the bushes, followed by deep loosening - by 10 cm;
• carried out again after 14 days - a mixture of phosphorus, potassium and organic fertilizers is used;
• for the third time (until September 15), mullein infusion or compost solution is added.

In autumn, when watering strawberries, it is good to use the Zircon stimulant, the action of which is directed to the root system and stems. They also carry out preventive treatment against various fungal and bacterial infections. Effective drugs are "Ridomil Gold", "Ridomil", "Skor", "Topaz". Bordeaux liquid is often also used. After it, you can treat with copper chloride. To destroy pests, spraying with karbofos is used, after which the beds are covered with polyethylene for a while.

Before the onset of winter, strawberries need to be fed again to strengthen the roots and stems. AT autumn top dressing use rationally organic fertilizers: humus, compost chicken manure, ash. Solutions of mullein and bird droppings are poured between the rows, trying not to pour over the leaves. wood ash sprinkle row spacing (200 g per 1 sq. M) or its water solution(150 g per bucket of water). Mulching is also carried out in autumn. In October, sawdust and peat are used as mulch, which will protect the roots from the cold, and retain moisture in the spring. The layer of mulch should be at least 5 cm.

For information on when and how to cut strawberries, see the following video.

When preparing strawberries for the winter period, it is necessary to carry out a number of agrotechnical measures. As a rule, for this, the soil is loosened and mulched with a rather thick layer of organic material. Preliminary processing necessary not only to cover the root system of plants during the frost period, but also to protect against various diseases and pests that can attack a weakened culture.

Together with this, many gardeners prune strawberry leaves. Some perform this procedure in the spring, others prefer autumn. There are those who are completely against such events. Therefore, we will figure out whether it is necessary to cut strawberry leaves in the fall and how to properly prepare the plant for the winter period.

Preparing for winter

Already from mid-August, it is necessary to carry out appropriate care of the plant. However, in this case, it is necessary not to perform additional procedures, but, on the contrary, try not to interfere with the plant going into sleep mode.

That is why it is necessary to stop fertilizing. Fertilizers stimulate and new buds begin to develop on it. If strawberries are preparing for fruiting and winter comes, this can destroy the culture.

If we talk about whether it is necessary to cut strawberry leaves in the fall, then there are several opinions on this subject that are radically different from each other. Let's consider in more detail.

Benefits of pruning leaves

In the process of this event, it is necessary to cut absolutely all the foliage on the bush. This procedure has several positive aspects:

• The root system becomes stronger. If you remove the leaves, then the plant will use all its strength to feed the roots, which will receive the maximum of nutrients and trace elements.
• The plant survives the winter much better. When there are no leaves on it, then only root system which is very easy to protect.
• Pests often live on strawberry foliage. If they are removed, they will not be able to harm the plant in autumn period when culture shouldn't suffer.

However, there are those who, on the question of whether strawberry leaves should be cut in the fall, believe that this procedure is not needed.

Negative sides of pruning leaves

If you perform a similar procedure, then this can lead to some negative consequences:

Whether it is necessary to cut the leaves of strawberries in the fall, everyone decides for themselves. This procedure has a lot of supporters, but there are those who are categorically against such manipulations. Indeed, this method has its advantages and negative sides. Therefore, when deciding whether to cut strawberry leaves in the fall, you need to consider your own experience. Some novice gardeners are afraid to perform such a procedure.

However, you need to understand that plants of this species are distinguished by good vitality. Therefore, knowing why strawberry leaves are cut in the fall, you can not be afraid that you will destroy the culture. If everything is done correctly, then the yield of the plant can increase significantly.

Pruning strawberry leaves

This procedure is performed before the onset of the first frost. If we talk about when you need to cut the leaves of strawberries in the fall, then in this matter it all depends on the climatic features of the region. Most often, foliage is removed in late August or early September. In this case, the procedure is performed as follows:

• First, the stems located in the middle of the bush are removed. Thus, it is necessary to thin out all plants. It is recommended to leave no more than 6-7 stems on one bush.
• Remove diseased, damaged and infected leaves along with stems. It is also recommended to trim the foliage that lies on the ground.
• When pruning young crops, you need to act very carefully. Do not touch the sinuses of the kidneys, which are very important for the future harvest.
• When pruning old bushes, it is necessary to remove foliage butt to the surface of the earth. Then the plants will rejuvenate.

Under the root, only old or damaged plants should be cut. On young bushes, only leaf blades are removed.

Aftercare

After the strawberry leaves have been properly cut in the fall, it is recommended to disinfect the plants. If mold or fungus remains in the ground, this can lead to damage to the bushes.

In addition, after pruning strawberries, some experienced gardeners apply fertilizers to the ground to saturate it with useful substances and trace elements. Thanks to this, the root system of the plants will be more developed and more healthy buds will appear on the plants in the spring. As top dressing, it is recommended to use organic matter or mineral fertilizers.

Knowing when to prune strawberry leaves in the fall doesn't need to forget about weeds. They definitely need to be removed. For work it is better to use a chopper or garden pitchfork. However, you need to act very carefully so as not to hurt the roots of the plant.

A few days after pruning the foliage, it is necessary to water the bushes well. You can add a few drops of potassium permanganate to the water. In this case, watering should be continued until new leaves begin to appear on the plant.

Trimming the tendrils of strawberries

Throughout summer season the whiskers of the plant grow very strongly. In autumn, they do not develop so actively, and in winter they completely “fall asleep”. Therefore, it is precisely when preparing the plant for wintering that all dried, diseased or damaged antennae must be removed. However, removing them is not recommended if the grower wants to increase the strawberry plantation next year. In that case, they need to be left and seated with the onset of summer.

How experienced gardeners take care of strawberries before the onset of winter

To spring work did not take much time and effort, it is worth making a number of mandatory autumn events. First of all, you need to weed the soil around the bushes again. Closer to October, it is worth digging the ground onto a shovel bayonet. This will avoid waterlogging or excessive compaction.

If the site is dominated by loam, then the water often stagnates. This can lead to rotting of the root system of plants. Therefore, you can add some sand to the soil. For planting strawberries, it is recommended to choose the driest places.

Do I need to organize additional shelters

As a rule, for the winter period, many gardeners cover the plants so that they do not die. This applies not only to flowers, but also to strawberries. For her to give good harvest, it is necessary to protect the bushes during frosts. However, some experts argue that the use nonwoven fabric is not necessary condition. It is difficult to unequivocally answer the question of whether shelters are needed.

From one point of view, such shelters require additional financial investments and labor costs. In addition, such protection often provokes rotting and decay of plants. If during the thaw there is water on the site, then the bushes may die under the polyethylene. Also in such conditions, bacteria and fungi thrive well.

On the other hand, in regions where cold temperatures prevail, such measures are necessary. If you do not cover the strawberries, then it can simply freeze.

Making a shelter

It is best to use natural natural materials for plant protection. As a shelter, it is recommended to use spruce branches or oak leaves. Wherein protective layer should be about 5-7 cm thick. In this case, the plants will receive required amount oxygen. At the same time, they will not freeze even in the most severe winter.

Also, thanks to such a shelter, strawberries will not rot. In addition, the spruce branches allow the necessary amount of moisture to pass through, which will nourish the bushes throughout winter period. Weeds won't grow either. They just can't get through such a thick barrier. It's no secret that in the spring suburban areas slugs and caterpillars often appear. These pests cannot move on difficult and rough surfaces, therefore they will not be able to damage young leaves.

Speaking about whether to cut the leaves of strawberries in the fall, it is difficult to answer the question unambiguously. It all depends on the preferences of the gardener.

The lush and fragrant inflorescences of lilies are so pleasing to the eye that many simply feel sorry for cutting them off. Do I need to prune them after flowering is a question of interest to many beginner flower growers. Features of pruning indoor lilies and plants open ground described in this article.

You will learn all the details of pruning lilies after flowering, according to what rules they are carried out and what terms should be followed during the procedure.

Pruning lilies after flowering

In order for plants growing in one place to delight you with their unique flowers and wonderful aroma, you should take proper care of them. This is not only loosening, watering, fertilizing, but also timely pruning leaves, because proper conduct This procedure depends on the entire development of the plant for the next year.

Very often, beginner gardeners have a dilemma when to prune the leaves of a crop: immediately after flowering or much later. Our article will answer this and other questions.

Peculiarities

When the plants fade, only wilted flower stalks and leaves remain above the soil surface. Therefore, naturally there is a desire to put the flower bed in order by removing protruding stems. However, this should not be done immediately after the end of flowering.

The thing is that the bulb is stored with nutrients throughout the season, and photosynthesis processes take place in the stems and leaves, as a result of which accumulation occurs. useful elements. Therefore, prematurely cutting stems and leaves, we with my own hands we form a weak bulb, unable to give a healthy plant next year.

rules

We learned that it is not necessary to prune crops immediately after flowering, and remove the leaves and stems of the plant to keep the bulbs healthy.

What to do with faded buds, prompt following rules (picture 1):

• After flying around the petals, it is necessary to cut only the seed pods.
• Leaves and stems are not pruned after flowering. They die off naturally in early autumn, after which they are removed.
• In the case of cutting flowers for a bouquet, you should choose bushes that have more than 5 buds. In this case, the bulb, most likely, has already reached sufficient size. However, it is necessary to cut the flowers so that part of the stem remains above the ground.

The aerial parts remaining after flowering (cutting) contribute to the restoration of the bulb.

More information about the care and pruning of crops in the open field is shown in the video.

Trimming time

Trim timing is one of the most common mistakes. It is important to know that the preliminary removal of the aerial parts of the plant directly affects the development of the mother bulb, because as a result of the interruption of photosynthesis processes in the green organs of the plant, the process of formation and transport of nutrients to the roots is disrupted (Figure 2).

Note: Such a culture will not be able to grow a full-fledged bulb that can survive the winter and give abundant flowering next year.

Therefore, it is worth being patient and waiting until the stems die off. naturally. As a rule, this happens in the fall. As a consequence, the stems are pruned either in late autumn or spring.

Should I prune lilies after flowering?

The answer to the question of whether it is necessary to prune the bushes after flowering is categorically negative. While the stem is alive, photosynthesis takes place in it with the formation of substances that feed the bulb. Thus, she prepares for wintering and flowering next season.

But to remove unripe fruits, on the contrary, is desirable, because the plant spends such necessary forces on them, and the bulb receives a smaller amount of the necessary substances.

How to prune a house lily after flowering

Varieties grown in flower pots, go through the same stages of development as open ground plants: they fade, gradually dry out, go into a dormant state. And in order to bloom next year, the bulb must make a certain supply of nutrients and rest.

Note: Therefore, if your pet has faded, in no case cut off its stems.

Simply reduce the moisture supply while increasing the interval between waterings, and stop spraying (Figure 3). In this way, you will activate the transition of nutrients from the organs of the aerial part to the bulb and help lay the foundation for growth and development in the new year.

When to prune lilies for the winter

The answer to the question is unequivocal: pruning of plants is carried out late autumn after natural death of stems and leaves. At the same time, the stems are not completely removed, but low (15 cm) bushes are left above the soil surface.

Some gardeners even advise removing yellowed and dried stems in the spring.

Peculiarities

In order to keep the plants in good condition until next year, you need to take care of storing the bulb in the winter, especially if you do not plan to dig it up. This is where the question arises when to prune for the winter.

Since these plants flower early enough, it takes a long time for the stems to die off naturally. At this time, photosynthesis processes take place in the still living stem, without which the supply of nutrients to the bulb is impossible. For this reason, the stems and leaves are not removed immediately after the end of flowering, but only after the stem dies off on its own.

What to trim from a lily so that it does not smell

Pruning is practiced not only after flowering, but also during it. These flowers are well known for their sharp and strong aroma, which is formed as a result of the release of special volatile oils by all organs of the plant. However, this smell is not always pleasant for humans, and in some cases can cause allergic reactions.

What to do if the bouquet is beautiful, but the smell is too heavy for you? In this case, it is recommended to remove the stamens of flowers, because it is on them that smelling pollen is collected. To do this, bring to the bud paper bag and carefully cut the stamens into it. Use gloves to keep pollen from getting on your fingers. This procedure should be repeated with each blooming flower.

The author of the video will tell you how to get rid of the smell of these flowers.

Over time, many plants become unkempt. They do not please, but only depress their owners. Alya restoration of decorativeness and rejuvenation of plants use pruning. Removing and limiting the growth of certain shoots causes the plants to develop in a certain shape and direction. For indoor plants pruning is very important because it allows you to maintain a balance between the ground part of the plant and its root system, the size of which is limited by the size of the pot. In addition, pruning improves the appearance of the plant and stimulates the development of dormant buds, making flowering more abundant. In some plants, flowers are formed only on young shoots, so pruning is necessary to enhance flowering.

There are several types of pruning: sanitary, rejuvenating and shaping. The purpose of sanitary pruning is to remove weakened old shoots, which are often easy prey for fungi and bacteria and a breeding ground for insect pests. Anti-aging pruning is done to stimulate the growth of new young branches to replace the old ones. Anti-aging pruning is especially needed for those plants that develop long shoots that lose leaves over time. It is also necessary if the shoots are exposed from high temperature or dry air in winter. This often happens, for example, with pelargoniums and hydrangeas. After rejuvenating pruning, many powerful, healthy shoots grow.

When should houseplants be pruned?

As a rule, pruning is done after a period of dormancy or flowering. It is better not to combine pruning with transplanting, as this may slow down the growth of new shoots. Many plants need to be pruned annually. Never cut plants at random, be sure to read the recommendations for each species first. Some plants may not bloom after pruning, while others will grow without pruning and become ugly. The best time for pruning - spring. Pruning is done after a dormant period. Cuts are made over outward-facing leaves, otherwise new shoots will grow inward. The cut should be made a few millimeters above the kidney and go away from it, slightly obliquely.

What are the rules for pruning?

For pruning, you need to use sharp and clean tools - secateurs, scissors or a knife. In plants with milky juice, the cut point must be carefully burned with a burning match. Major damage can be sprinkled with crushed charcoal to reduce the risk of infection. It is very important that the cut be smooth, without damage to the cortex and cambium underneath, because the growing cambium will close the wound. Remember that wood is not capable of regeneration, so it must be protected. Plants should be pruned above the bud facing outward from the crown so that the branches do not grow inward and do not intertwine. When pruning, moving to a new plant, be sure to disinfect the blade with alcohol, miramistin or other antiseptics.

What is pinching indoor plants?

Pinching - pinching off the top of the shoot with your fingers - is used to enhance the branching of very young shoots. They are so tender that you can do without secateurs. Pinching is also used to enhance branching, since the removal of the apical bud allows lateral shoots to develop. Pinch the plant usually over the first pair of leaves. In order for cuttings or young plants to branch well and not stretch upward, you need to slow down their growth in height by pinching off the tops of the shoots. It should be borne in mind that pinching the apical bud does not immediately lead to the development of lateral shoots. Sometimes this takes quite a long time.

In some plants, flowers form only on young shoots, therefore, to enhance branching and, accordingly, more abundant flowering, pinching them is vital. Such a plant, for example, is the “Decembrist” - the Schlumbergera cactus. It is recommended to pinch the shoots after flowering. You need to choose a separation point, clamp the lower stem segment between the index and thumb with one hand, and separate the upper one with a rotational movement. One or two segments of each stem should be separated in this way. Never cut segments! As a result, flowering will be more abundant, as strong stems will form that can carry large quantity colors. In addition, a well-formed Schlumberger is much lives longer- some specimens bloom and grow for 20 years or more.

How to prune indoor flowers?

It depends on the type of pruning and its purpose. In the process of sanitary pruning, dead and drying shoots and, in general, all unhealthy parts of the plant are cut out. You need to cut the shoot down to healthy tissue; if the shoot starts underground, it must be removed to the very base. With anti-aging pruning, 3-5 buds are left on the shoot. Of these, new, strong shoots will later develop. Do not spare pruned branches: the more radical the pruning, the more actively the remaining shoots will grow. It's okay if you remove up to 90% of the shoot length. After rejuvenating pruning, do not forget to feed the plant to provide it with opportunities for rapid growth. Formative pruning allows you to achieve certain form. So you can get a compact bush, a ball, a standard tree, a pyramid and other more complex shapes. This is the most complex view pruning, because for each specific plant and for each form, a different order of pruning shoots is needed.

How to form a compact bush?

Many plants look most attractive and thrive best when grown into a compact bush. These plants include Indian Azalea (Azalea indica), Achimenes (Achimenes), Coleus (Coleus), Balsam (Impatiens), Beloperone (Beloperone), Brovallia (Browallia), Hibiscus (Hibiscus) and many others. To form a bush young plant at a height of 6-7 cm pinch the top of the main shoot. Lateral shoots, after reaching a height of 10-12 cm, are also pinched. When is formed beautiful bush, you need to periodically pluck or cut out the shoots directed inward, it is better at the very beginning of their appearance. Azalea is an example. After the first pinching, three shoots are left (they are called shoots of the 1st order), after the 2nd pinching, 2 shoots are left on each shoot of the 1st order, then during subsequent pinching, the number of shoots left is alternated in this way: 3-2-3- 2 etc.

How to form a stem tree?

A trunk in horticulture is called a tree trunk from the ground to the first branch of the crown. In a sense, almost all trees are standard trees. In a narrower sense, a standard form is a relatively small tree artificially formed (by pruning, grafting). Many houseplants shaped like a standard village look very attractive. It is convenient to focus on the following dimensions: a desktop village 30-45 cm high, a low village 45-80 cm high and a standard tree 80-105 cm high. standard tree take a strong rooted cutting, growing vertically upwards. Then removed side shoots until the plant reaches the desired height. When this height is reached, the top of the plant is cut off and 5-6 lateral shoots are allowed to develop, which will be the top of the standard tree. All leaves at the base of the stem are removed, and then the crown is formed into the desired shape. In the form of a trunk, you can grow roses, pelargoniums, fuchsias ...

How to form an arc?

Ampelous and climbing plants form long shoots that can be launched along a wire arc. Stephanotis, Passiflora, Bougainvillea glabra, Dipladenia, Jasminum and other plants can be grown in this way. To do this, the arched support is carefully inserted into the pot. Then the shoots are distributed along the wire, and in some places they are loosely tied with woolen thread or soft braid.

How to form curly shapes?

Some plants lend themselves easily to shearing or solid pruning. It is produced without taking into account the branches, and this allows you to form almost any shape. There are very few such plants, but they still exist. Houseplants include evergreen boxwood (Buxus sempervirens), large-fruited cypress (Cupressus macrocarpa) and winter heather (Erica hiemalis).