Sheathing the house with overlapping boards. Review of the best options for finishing a house with an unedged board

Quite often I receive letters from you, my friends, in which you ask many questions, ask for help, advice. Sometimes I ask myself – what is wrong with the blog? Why don't they ask me questions directly in the topics?

Are you shy? Or uncomfortable? Or... or is there something really wrong - only I don't know about it and don't guess?
Others, are you comfortable here? cosy? Is everything clear? ... otherwise I'm seriously worried ...

The blog is almost 4 years old (there will be a celebration in a month), and it’s like my second home… I come here, get comfortable in my big leather chair, put on a cup of tea or coffee… something tasty and start writing.
And I really want you to feel comfortable and cozy here as well. And in spite of everything, I love reading your letters.

So why am I all this ... In addition, I was very much asked to tell about how we sheathed our DREAM COTTAGE in Kulemino.

You can read about all our stories about the construction of a cottage with your own hands on the shore of the Karelian lake by the tag: - You are welcome to visit us.

And today I will tell you everything about the skin ...
I want to say right away that I don’t have detailed photos of the process - there was no time to take them .. But I tried to draw understandable illustrations :))
BUT! If you have any questions - I'm here! :)))

So let's go...
As I already said, the 2014 season ended with the sheathing of one large wall in the new living room.

By that time, we had already left for Moscow, and my dad himself sheathed this wall. In general, I can say - HERO. Since 4 meters of wall in one hand ... Together - this is normal, but alone ...
But he did and even treated it with an antiseptic before winter - which I was incredibly happy about.

The 2015 season is a lot of work to complete the construction of a new room - and of course, we also finished it beautifully on all three sides ...

The 2016 season was under the slogan: BEAUTIFULLY COVER THE WHOLE HOUSE!
No sooner said than done…

How did I even come up with this idea? I don’t know for sure ... But I clearly knew that I wanted to see just such a picture :))) from my selection on Pinterest.

And then I often saw in our villages this way of sheathing houses ... I really liked it.
This is not only beautiful - since you have no idea how beautiful the play of light and shadow on the edges of the board is, but also practical - if you simply upholster the board “exactly”, then there is a risk that the gaps will still be ... and they will have to be covered with flashings ... And such a method will practically protect us from the story with flashings - that's why he was chosen.

My dad, as usual, with his skepticism, said that it was necessary to do it as simply as possible - but I was stubborn - insisted on my own ... Yes, it took more boards ... (one wall of our house is about 27 boards), but it was worth it!

And it turned out just super ... And in chocolate color, it fits beautifully into the history of the forest.

So... how did this all happen?

If you remember, our new room is “conditionally frame”. Therefore, outside we have WIND PROTECTION ... the entire frame is sheathed with it. According to the rules, there must be some distance between the cladding final layer of the house and the wind protection (the manufacturer advises 5 cm) for the normal functioning of the entire frame system - this is of course understandable ...

In this regard, the work on cladding the house with the “HERRINGNESS” board consisted of the following:

STEP number 1 - make guides from bars and install them on the frame of the whole house in increments of no more than 1 meter.

STEP number 2 - select the boards that are prepared for this work, sand them well and preferably treat with an antiseptic.

STEP #3 - Carefully complete all the sewing work at home.


Necessary tools and materials:

• Chainsaw
• Jigsaw and wood saws
• Preferably wood sawing machine
• Sander and a lot of sandpaper
• Roulettes, iron corner and level!
• Hammers
• Nails
• screwdriver and wood screws
• Antiseptic, brushes, rollers.

And yet - a lot of free space for work, so that your workplace is as comfortable as possible!

Go…

Step one - bars or crate.

We did not buy ready-made bars, as for us it was both inconvenient and expensive. We have a machine, so we just sawed the bars from the boards that were left from the floor with a section of 4 cm.

On wooden walls, the bars were simply screwed with large self-tapping screws, on stone walls the story was more complicated - special dowels and dowel-nails were required there to keep everything well.

The guides were fixed in increments of about 1 meter, no more. Somewhere it turned out both 60 cm and 80 ...
This is also an important point - if the wall is long without windows, there is a temptation to make the steps of the crate huge - like nails, you can save - but then there is a risk that the board will bend ... And everything will go to waste - think a hundred times!

STEP #2 - board:


We had the following upholstery board: edged board 125*20*6000.

From my point of view, this is the most convenient size both in thickness and width .. well, I won’t talk about the length. On the one hand, the longer the better - but it’s also more difficult to work :)

We carefully processed each board with a grinding machine. EVERYONE! And especially the ends. The end that went “inside” under the board - I did not grind perfectly, but simply processed a little.

In my mind, each board from all sides must also be treated with an antiseptic - I, the lazy person, did not do the treatment on the inside.
But you can't do that :)))

Here I’ll make a small clarification from experience: you won’t be able to sand the entire board at once - it’s quite inconvenient to do for the whole house as a whole. Divide the work into sections.

How we did:
For example, we decided to make wall A. There are two windows (see picture). The crate is in place and you can measure everything well.
We measure all areas (under the windows, above the windows, between them) and cut the board into the required length pieces. Then I grind and we nail them right away ... Everything is fast.

Why cut the board? Believe me, grinding 120 cm or 6 meters are two big differences. For long boards, I made a whole fixture from clamps and work tables.


Why sanding is necessary: ​​because ... because, firstly, everything will be perfectly evenly beautiful, and secondly, a sanded board will consume much less paint (impregnation, azure, etc.). This is a significant money saver as well. So you are faced with a choice - to buy a polished board or go through this path yourself. We had no choice - we had to grind ourselves.

The hardest job in this story is sanding. Since it is boring ... and monotonous. Then my hands hurt from the operation of the machine very much.
But I did it. Yes, the men were very helpful. Sometimes my dad and I worked in two hands, I polished the board, and he had its ends - it was very convenient to cooperate in such an artel :)

Now let's move on to the process of creating a "Christmas Tree".

The most important thing there is to set the first board perfectly even. It is installed absolutely straight, hammered into 2 nails in each guide. And the most important thing is to make sure that its level is perfectly even.

A lyrical digression: when we talk about the evenness of the board, we must understand that it almost does not exist in nature ... I.e. it is very rare when they bring you a stack of 5-6 cubes of an ideal evenly uneven board. And you will be able to ensure storage at such a high level that it will not lead, it will not pick up moisture, it will not start to rot, etc ...
With all these difficulties you will have to face - be prepared for pleasant and not very pleasant surprises.
If you are buying a board in bulk at once, arrange storage space, stack properly with cross rails, don't stack the board close together, and try to cover it from the rain.

How to set exactly the first board? We worked together and did this: we figured out the “beginning” of our herringbone wall.

The husband nailed his edge to 1 nail (50 and 70 nails were used).
Then he went to the center of the board and set the level, at that time I adjusted my edge according to his instructions. Then, when the level showed “OK”, the husband moved away from the house at an impressive distance and looked at the visual evenness, since our long board was not all that perfect.
If everything is “OK”, then I hammered my edge and we finished nailing the board along all the guides.

We take the second board and begin to form the same Christmas tree by imposing one board on another.

“Overlap” was literally 1-1.5 cm. No more! The sewing process was the same as with the first board - I hammered in the first nail, checked the level, it was necessary - I checked visually and went to nail everything else ...

We tried to make the board fit very tightly to the previous board and we had practically no gaps between them.

Difficulty sometimes arose if the board was with a “hump”, then we straightened it right in place so that the power of the nail would help us put everything in its place.

If everything goes smoothly, the board is level, and there were no mistakes from the very beginning, then it works very quickly. It took us two or three hours to cover one wall.

This is how, step by step, we sheathed the whole house in two seasons (one pediment remained - but that's another story).

Make sure that you have good quality nails :)) and not like this:

Now about the paint.

After we sheathed the house, I covered it with a special azure from OLYMP:

OLIMP Omicron-Maximum - Wood-protective glazing thixotropic composition with a UV filter.

Why OLYMP? Everything is simple - budget and tested by repeated use at other sites.

I first got acquainted with Olympic impregnations when I was making a balcony in my apartment in Moscow. There we have a bar counter made of pine boards. And then we covered it with this very impregnation of the “NUT” color ... Now almost 8 years have passed already ... But the “convergence” of the paint layer has become noticeable. But - this is the 19th floor of the northern part of Moscow, blown by the most terrible winds and practically this table is always flooded in the rains very strongly.

The walls in the rest room of the bath are covered with azure from OLYMPUS, the pediment of the guest room from the side of the street is covered, all the filings of the roof of a large house are covered ... For its long use, while it shows its good side.

Therefore, we did not think for a long time and also bought azure from OLYMPUS for the walls .. The only difference is that this time we chose azure that is not water-based. Therefore, it smelled strongly, was quite thick, it should only be diluted with white spirit, and, accordingly, a different care for brushes and rollers.

Modern products are made of durable wood species that have an attractive appearance. Thanks to this, facades made using natural material are in constant demand in the building products market and are in no way inferior, but in some ways even superior in their qualities to artificial counterparts.

Front board: types and features

In the old days, the most popular type of cladding board was a lining made of coniferous wood. Now, more and more often, other types of wood (including exotic ones) are used for arranging the facade. The same type of facade board was replaced by materials that differ in thickness, profile, fastening system.

Materials for the manufacture of facade boards

• Larch- one of the most demanded breeds of a tree suitable as a basis of a front board. Its popularity is due to its availability and cost-effectiveness. And larch, and cedar, and Angarsk pine wood do not need to be further processed, since a high percentage of resin content provides the material with durability and the ability to withstand various kinds of external influences. The cladding becomes darker after a while, but this can hardly be counted among the minuses of wood - the facade takes on a more noble look. Tropical types of campas, meranti, teak have similar properties, but their cost is much higher compared to larch.
• Linden, ash, birch- wood species that require special processing for their use in facade cladding. Under the action of high temperatures, the material becomes more durable and dense (almost like oak), and the color shades acquire saturation. Such wood processing is the basis for the manufacture of facade thermal boards.
• Wood-polymer composite- another way of processing the material, allowing the front board to withstand moisture, temperature fluctuations, mold formation, pest damage. The manufacturing process also involves the addition of a dye that is resistant to fading under the influence of ultraviolet radiation. Thanks to this, the range of shades and textures of the WPC facade board becomes diverse.

Facade board profiles

A wide variety of wood cladding materials used in the decoration of the facades of cottages, houses, baths, and other buildings of the site may be called a facade board. Their difference is in the profile and mounting methods. What are they like?

• Clapboard, timber imitation, Block House: these types of facade board profiles are connected using tenon grooves, their installation is carried out without gaps.
• Facade board planken- the panel, planed from all sides, has neither grooves nor spikes. To install it, it is required to maintain a small technological gap between the elements, then, if the material begins to expand under the influence of air humidity, the surface of the cladding will not be deformed. At the same time, it is always possible to independently change the damaged board for a new one without having to completely disassemble the facade.
• wood siding. Most often, the siding offered on the market is made of WPC (wood-polymer composite).

The material for finishing the facade of the building can be any. The main rule is the obligatory preliminary preparation of the lining (sanding, impregnation with an antiseptic), and the subsequent coating of the surface with wax, varnish, oil or paint.

Facade board installation

The installation scheme for all types of facade cladding made of wood is the same. To fix the board, a wooden crate is first mounted..

The order of work on the installation of the front board.

Finishing with an unedged board is the most common and simple technology that, with the right and competent approach, can decorate the facade of a residential building.

This is a simple and inexpensive building material, the characteristic feature of which is not sawn edges, which give design originality and aesthetics to the structure.

Often, equipping and decorating your home, preference is given to environmentally friendly building materials.

Therefore, cladding with a board or similar materials based on natural wood has gained popularity.

Among the positive physical properties of a tree, it should be noted:

• Beautiful view;
• Resistance to mechanical stress;
• High thermal insulation;
• Partial replacement of damaged slats;
• High strength;
• Noise isolation;
• Ease of installation and operation;
• Compatibility with other finishing building materials.

The cost of a natural product is higher than that of imitating analogues, but it is fully justified.

The modern construction market offers a wide range of wooden products, but the most popular are:

• Lining;
• Timber imitation;
• Siding panels;
• Unedged board.

Thanks to the raw edges, an amazing style of facade decoration is created with competent cleaning and processing of the material.

The careful fitting of the planks gives the impression of a completely wooden structure. It is possible to leave the edges of the planks with bark elements, which gives a stylish finish.

It is only important not to forget about the use of protective impregnating compounds and antiseptics. Impregnation with stain and subsequent application of varnish is possible.

Previously, such material was spent on non-residential structures and for the lathing of the roof structure due to the lack of demand for aesthetic appearance.

But in recent years, an unedged board has also been used for. However, its competent processing and aesthetic location will first be required.

Among its positive characteristics are high strength and high resistance to mechanical damage, good resistance to changes in humidity and temperature extremes.

And the low density of wood makes it possible in its easy processing, which reduces the time spent on finishing work.

A beam is used, nailed in increments of 1.5 m to the top of the unedged board and at the corners of the building.

The fit of the unedged material may not be perfect, the resulting gaps are smeared with mastic or a sealed composition.

Advantages and disadvantages of wood:

Pros: independence from climatic zones, designs of any complexity, environmental friendliness and naturalness, simple installation that does not require special skills.

As well as the duration of operation and maintainability, the installation of additional insulation, the reconstruction of the facade without harming the fundamental foundation, an affordable price and a variety of colors and textures.

Watch a video on the topic:

Cons: combustibility without special treatment, natural components in the form of knots, resins and cracks, the frequency of updating the protective paint, fungal manifestations without antiseptic treatment.

Material dimensions

Finishing is carried out with an unedged board 16, 19, 22 and 25 mm thick, there is also a thicker one - 32-75 mm.

Specialized stores are full of a variety of choices of this material, which is explained by the frequent finishing work with its use.

The creation and uniqueness of the play of chiaroscuro is the effect obtained thanks to the horizontal cladding. For facades, it is recommended to purchase an unedged board 30 cm wide.

Preference is given to high-density wood of northern species, which is characterized by a beautiful texture. Especially, I would like to note the selected butt forest and Siberian larch, which are without defects.

Mounting method

The slats are fastened in 2 ways: "overlapping" or close to each other. Method 2 is as complicated as it is beautiful.

Regardless of the aesthetic appearance, the practicality of the finishing method is taken into account, first of all.

From the point of view of practicality, “overlapping” is the most suitable method of facade cladding, as it is more moisture resistant due to the installation of an unedged board over a waterproofing layer.

And the ends of the slats are joined with trimming "under the mustache" with subsequent processing of the joints with a sealed composition.

If necessary, the material is primed and mounted on top of the waterproofing. Fastening is done with the front side with the 1st nail below, but above the previous bar.

This will preserve the integrity of the entire structure with any fluctuations in humidity.

Step-by-step overlapping technology

The boards are primed or covered with a protective layer with deep penetration compounds.

A primer is a link with adhesive and paint compositions, which helps to increase the wear resistance of the coating and reduce the aggressive effects of the environment. The walls are also primed.

Installation of a waterproofing layer of a coating type. The walls and blind areas of the building are waterproofed three times to protect against moisture penetration and the formation of microorganisms.

Applying mastic is done with a brush. If there are cracks, they are filled with the composition, and the excess is removed with a spatula.

Drying of the waterproofing is important to avoid stickiness of the surface.

Installation of an insulating layer in the form of mineral wool, characterized by its incombustibility, moisture resistance, cold resistance.

Fastening planks vertically over the waterproofing layer with nails. Vertical unedged boards are stuffed to the wall surface, after which horizontal ones are attached from the bottom up.

The imposition of each subsequent bar on the previous one is overlapped by 20 mm.

Sealing joints with polyurethane sealants, which have high elasticity and are not subject to stretching and deformation.

Sheathing a house with an overlap board is an excellent option to decorate the facade of the house, give it a beautiful and individual appearance. At a cost, cladding a house with a board is perhaps the cheapest option for finishing exterior walls.

As for the durability of such decoration of the external walls of the house, much depends on how the board for the house cladding was processed and how well it was protected from negative various external factors.

Before you take on the sheathing of a house with an overlap board on your own, read the information on this topic, ask your friends and watch a video on the Internet on how to properly sheathe a house with a board. All this will help to avoid mistakes in the process of finishing the house with an overlap board and will allow the lined surface of the walls of the house to last as long as possible.

Sheathing a house with an overlap board - instructions

It is probably not worth saying that the entire board for sheathing the house must be thoroughly dried and treated with antiseptics before installation. Also, in order to sheathe the house with an overlap board, you will need to assemble the frame. For its assembly, it is also better to use wood in the form of small bars in cross section.

From the tool for sheathing a house with a board you will need:

• A screwdriver, if wood screws will be used to fasten the boards.
• Wood saw.
• Hammer, nail puller and pliers.

First, the frame for mounting the boards is assembled. All work on fixing the frame is carried out according to a pre-made markup. After the frame is assembled, it is possible to cut the prepared board according to the available dimensions in order to sheathe the walls of the house with an overlap.

To do this, on each cut board, it is necessary to mark the overlap. In this case, the work on sheathing the house with an overlap board will pass quickly and without complications. Before proceeding with the sheathing of the house with a board, you will need to choose one of the available installation methods.

In total, there are several ways to sheathe a house with a board:

• Sheathing the house with a rustic board or with a bevel into a tongue;
• Sheathing with a board in semi-rustic and with a bevel in a quarter;
• Sheathing board in gluing;
• Sheathing with a board in tongue and groove and in a straight quarter.

After the markup and preparation of the boards, you can proceed to self-plating the house with an overlap. In the process of performing these works, the masters recommend adhering to the following tips.

Tip one: Do not nail the boards or screw them with self-tapping screws only from above and below. It is better to do this in a run, because in this way it will turn out better, fix the material. At the same time, during the operation of the wooden facade of the house, the board will not absorb moisture and split.

Tip two: In order to sheathe a house with an overlap board, it is better to use not galvanized nails, but ordinary steel nails. The galvanized surface of the nail is still peeled off during installation, after which such nails begin to rust very quickly. The ideal option when sheathing a house with an overlap board is the use of stainless nails, however, such fasteners are quite expensive.

so when sheathing a house with an overlap board, it is very important to properly prepare the material, make a crate and choose from the methods of attaching the boards with an overlap, after which you can safely take on this work.

To give the house a certain style, namely country music - the simplicity and lightness of the wild American West, they often use the version of the wooden sheathing of the cottage with a herringbone or overlap. Here the board is on one, located from the bottom up. As a result, a sloping Christmas tree is formed. From the point of view of profitability, this finishing option can hardly be called profitable, but at the same time, cladding a house with a board carries a flavor.

To perform work, you can use both edged boards and unedged boards. The first is a rectangular lumber that is perfectly evenly cut from all sides. Lumber also has a uniform thickness along the entire length. Such material is easy to mount and subsequently process with paint or varnishes.

What is an unedged board

An unedged board is a log sawn into thin lamellas along the grain. Moreover, if the planes of the lumber are approximately even and uniform throughout the thickness, then the end sides of the unedged board are not processed. That is, bark, bast and sapwood remain pure along the edge. Most often, unedged material is used for auxiliary purposes during construction (creating formwork, sheathing a subfloor or roof, etc.).

Important: in order to embody the country style in the exterior of the house, it is customary to make the sheathing with an unedged board. However, everything is at the discretion of the owners.

Types of wood for board sheathing

As a rule, cut and uncut boards are made from softwood and hardwood. The cheapest and simplest are pine and spruce wood. However, such lumber does little to protect the house under the sheathing from precipitation. Or it requires high-quality final processing with various antiseptics, flame retardants and varnishes, which is quite expensive.

Larch boards have a higher density and are able to protect the house from excessive moisture during seasonal rainfall. Therefore, larch lumber is mainly used to decorate the house from the outside. Its resistance to fungus and decay is known to many.

Important: the cost of a cubic meter of uncut larch lumber varies between 210-230 USD/m3.

For exterior decoration of the cottage, it is better and more convenient to use a board with a width of 30 cm. At the same time, the thickness of the panels can vary in the range of 20-30 mm.

Tip: before finishing the house, it is recommended to additionally dry the building material for 1-2 weeks in the open sun, and avoid accidental rain on it. Such preparation will lead to the least shrinkage and shrinkage of the finish. After all, the tree initially has natural moisture, which will begin to evaporate over time.

Carrying out cladding work

Lathing installation

Boards with a herringbone or overlap are mounted on a crate mounted in advance. This technology is good because you can additionally lay insulation and a membrane under the skin, which is especially good for houses made of foam and gas blocks.

Taking into account the fact that the trim from the boards will be mounted horizontally relative to the walls of the house, the battens of the crate should be placed vertically. To create a frame, it is better to use a wooden beam with a section of 50x50 mm. Before carrying out work, it must be treated with antiseptics in 2-3 layers to protect it from decay. Between treatment approaches take breaks for complete drying of the product.

The beam for the crate can be fixed in different ways, depending on the wall material from which the house is built:

• So, a timber is simply nailed to a wooden structure with long nails, but on condition that no insulation is laid in the frame;
• To the house of blocks of any type, the frame is attached with dowel screws;
• If it is supposed to install an insulating pie, then the frame beam is mounted on drywall hangers to the desired thickness.

Tip: in order to mount the frame in a single and perfectly flat plane, you can fix two beams opposite the wall and pull a fishing line between them. Then, along it, level all the other vertical racks of the crate.

The spacing of the beams can reach 1.5 meters. But most often it is made a multiple of the length of the board, which will be used for sheathing. If it is supposed to install a heater, then the step between the beams is made equal to the width of the plates or rolls of heat-insulating material.

We warm and waterproof the house

If, during the exterior decoration of the house with an edged or unedged board, a decision was made to additionally insulate the building, then it is necessary to remember one golden rule when choosing a heater - the vapor permeability of the entire pie should increase from the walls of the house to the outside. If this principle is neglected, in the future, condensate will accumulate in all layers of the building pie and eventually destroy both the structure of the walls of the house and the structure of all laid materials.

Therefore, first we waterproof the walls of the house. For brick and block buildings, bituminous mastic can be used. But most often rolled materials are used, which are overlapped on the crate, throwing edges (joints) of 10 cm onto adjacent rolls. At the same time, a ventilation gap is left between the wall of the house and the material.

Mineral wool or expanded polystyrene foam boards are mainly used as insulation. The insulation is attached to the walls of the house on the dowel-fungi and supplementing the fastening with glue. All joints between the plates are foamed with mounting foam, if any. Then the insulation is covered with a membrane in such a way that subsequently a ventilation gap remains between it and the sheathing board. This can be achieved if a counter-lattice of thin wooden slats is arranged over the mounted membrane. Or you can simply bend the membrane in places of vertical beams and fasten it to the side faces of the frame.

Exterior board finish

When the entire insulation cake is fully assembled, and the exterior board is dried and prepared, you can begin to install the sheathing.

Sheathing begins from the bottom panel in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe base. At the same time, it is necessary to fill several thin slats under the lumber, so that when attaching the finishing material, a starting slope angle is obtained. It can be larger or smaller, depending on the preferences of the owners. There is no exact regulation regarding this. The board is laid horizontally, keeping track of the level, and attached to the crate with nails or self-tapping screws in its upper part. Thus, the next laid panel will cover the fixing points, and create the next desired corner of the skin. The result is a herringbone finish. We continue the installation of the boards in this way on all the walls of the house. The corners of the sheathing are subsequently closed with decorative corners. And all possible joints must be filled with polyurethane sealant.

Tip: a fully arranged finish can be further treated with drying oil or varnishes / paints, depending on the chosen style. For example, a house might look like a cheerful country cottage in bright blue or light blue.

Roof board sheathing

If you are looking for the answer to the question of how to sheathe a house with a board and at the same time use the roof, then these tips will help you:

• So, in order to further trim the roof with lumber from a board cut off in production, when installing a roof, instead of rafters, they mount slabs - simple longitudinal logs. They are attached to the gables of the roof.
• Then a frame of beams or second-rate lumber is stuffed onto the logs. The principle of forming a step between the beams is the same as for the wall frame.
• Next, a waterproofing material is laid on the frame, which is overlapped at the joints. In this case, the waterproofing is released down to the gutter.
• Then, a thin rail is stuffed over a layer of waterproofing material to create a counter-lattice. It will help ventilate the roof sheathing boards.
• Finishing begins to be fixed from the drain upwards according to the same principle as on the walls of the house.

Important: such a roof looks colorful, but is excessively exposed to moisture. Therefore, lumber can be further treated with water repellents. The most popular are simple drying oil and Aquatex-extra. Such impregnation should be applied by preheating it in a water bath. Boards are treated in two layers. In this case, the drying of the first layer does not need to wait.

Tip: in order for the roof of the boards to last longer, you will need to repeat this wood treatment every 2-3 years.