Planting potatoes sprouts down is an unusual planting method that speeds up and increases the yield. Is it possible to plant unsprouted potatoes

The first way to plant potatoes is early

I want to tell you about my experiments with planting potatoes. I won’t repeat about germination, and I don’t really bother: only when I take out seed potatoes from the underground, pollinate them with ashes - and there are boxes waiting for their planting date.

First of all, I plant potatoes for hay in early May (but this year there was still some snow on the beds, although it was May 7 on the calendar), and the main potatoes closer to June. And it turns out that we eat potatoes under hay three weeks earlier.

Two narrow beds were made for this potato, and I plant it in two rows, because when it grows, it will be convenient to approach it - to rake the hay and "get" large potatoes. Then cover it again with hay, and let the small one grow further: while on one side of the bed I choose the grown potatoes, on the other side the little thing is already growing. There is no need to plant a lot of it under hay, depending on the number of eaters - from 5 to 10 kg.

The advantages of this method of planting potatoes:

• Young potatoes ripen earlier.
• No need to weed at all.
• No need to loosen anything, spud.
• Even if the heat is on, no need to water.

But in the first year, when I planted potatoes in this way (8 years ago), I have it where it sprouted and where it didn’t.

And I made a mistake: it is necessary that the sprouts must touch the ground, because the roots come from the sprouts!

Now I slightly deepen it into the ground, put a little hay over the sprouts so that they “see” where to grow, and along the edges, on the contrary, more hay and cover it with an old covering material (spunbond) - not so much for warmth, but for so that our north wind does not blow the hay all over the garden. Later, it will rain down, and you can remove the shelter.

Method two - fan landing

And I somehow read about the second landing method in a Belarusian magazine, it was called "Potatoes in dippers". It was also a long time ago, but I remember it - well, let's experiment. There it was recommended to divide the bed into 1.2 x 1.2 m squares. I used one small bed 3 m long and made three 1 x 1 m squares.

The principle is this: plant the tuber in the center, as usual, but as the stems grow, add a bucket of fertile soil to the center of the bush so that the sprouts lie like a fan. After about two weeks, we again pour the bucket into the center, and so five times.

In the first year, I was amazed at the result: 42 large tubers and only 2 small ones grew from one potato! In the second year, she did everything the same, but she poured less land, and the harvest turned out to be less - 28 large ones. And now I plant 3-5 pieces in this way, and there have never been less than 25 large potatoes.

Yes, you can’t plant a lot of potatoes in this way - where can you get so much land for bedding? If only there is someone who can bring it. And on large beds I plant it along the garden bed, then across it (for the next year), and it turns out, as if I was changing places.

The third method of planting potatoes is double

But I also have my favorite planting method: I make two rows close to each other in a checkerboard pattern, 10-15 cm each, then a gap of 70-80 cm, and again double rows. I spud both rows at once, and such

beautiful rows are obtained - the soul rejoices! I sketched a plan to make it clearer. So experience different ways landings, dear friends, and share with everyone!

The photographs show the difference: how potatoes grow under hay (in the foreground), and then - on ordinary garden, in the usual way. This is the end of June, and grandson Danila with the first harvest of greens and radishes.

Note to the gardener: planting potatoes with sprouts down

Some summer residents plant potatoes in this way: supposedly it increases the yield. I think it's only theoretical. When my grandchildren helped me plant potatoes, they threw them into the hole without looking at the sprouts. Shoots appeared, but a third of the holes were empty. I dug them up and saw that the potatoes were planted with sprouts down: they are bent, exhausted, and they sprout two weeks later, and then lag behind in growth, and, accordingly, in the harvest. What happens? The bulk of the stems have already dried up, and the lagging behind only turn green, and beetles begin to eat them intensively, which are then transferred to tomatoes and eggplants.

I constantly germinate in the pelvis early potatoes, sprinkling it from below and above with earth. On the advice, she sprouted potatoes without soil on a tray (often sprayed with water and covered the roots with a film so that they would not dry out). When transplanting, I noticed that the roots that grew in the ground were twice as long as those that grew on a tray without soil. So I imagined how poor sprouts make their way from under the tuber through the beard of roots, bending in order to finally see the light of God ... Do not believe me? Then just dig up the newly sprouted potatoes, planted sprouts down.

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This planting method can be used when you need to quickly propagate a variety of potatoes, and seed material Little. What you need to know about planting potatoes with sprouts?

Potatoes were grown sprouts 15-25 cm long, grown specially, in the dark, with room temperature. I put the potatoes for germination at the very end of March, sprayed them once a week.

A week before planting, the box was placed in plastic bag, loosely closed, sprayed 1 time in 2 days, and after a week the potato sprouts gave roots.

The seedlings are ready for planting.

Such large sprouts could not be grown, but I wanted to get big harvest. I wrote that potatoes form stolons only on the etiolated part of the stem, and the crop is formed on stolons. In this case, I received an etiolated (white) stem section in advance.

But you can plant sprouts and 10-15 cm each. It all depends on the desire and on the possibilities.

On this bed I made 3 ditches 20 cm wide and 15 cm deep.

She carefully separated the sprouts and laid them out on a ditch at an angle. Each ditch contained 12 sprouts.
The photo below shows one ditch.

What you need to know about planting potatoes with sprouts.

1. If we plant sprout with mother tuber, and we can cover it with earth without breaking it, then the layer of earth above the tip of the sprout can be 30 cm, and the sprout will break through this layer.

If a we separate the sprout from the tuber, then we put it not horizontally, but at an angle, or put it vertically. Above the tip of the sprout, the layer of earth should be 2-4 cm, maybe 5 cm, but no more, otherwise the sprout will not break through.
2. Sprouts can not fall asleep at a time - they will break. If they do not break immediately, then they will break for sure when watering. Therefore, we fall asleep in stages, with layers of earth 5 cm each, spilling water from a watering can with a divider.

As a result, after a few fillings, it turned out that only the tips of the sprouts stick out of the ground, as in the photo.

In the photo we see sprouts sticking out of the ground different lengths, and we must fill them up so that over each sprout there is a layer of earth no more than 5 cm . The sprout should not see sunlight - it will burn, but the layer of earth above the sprout should not be large - it will not break through. Gently fall asleep, water and check if everything worked out for us.

As a result, the sprout located at an angle will be completely covered, and there should be a layer of earth no more than 5 cm above the upper tip of the sprout.

3. You can not plant mixed or nearby sprouts that are separated from the tuber and not separated.

Closely planted tuber potatoes will crush potatoes from sprouts, the tops of the sprouts will be, but there will be no potatoes. The distance between different landings potatoes should be 80 cm - 1 meter, on the same bed, or planted on different beds.

After separating the sprouts from the tuber, you can plant the tubers without sprouts, but separately. The tubers will sprout, but this will happen much later than the planted potato sprouts will sprout. Therefore, the bed for tubers should also be separate or at a distance of 80 cm - 1 meter. potato tubers should not be planted in 3 rows, and in 2 rows, on a bed width of 1 meter.

Caring for sprout potatoes.

After mulching the cabbage, there were a few Christmas needles left, and in order to somehow cover the ground, I poured them into the garden.

It is very difficult to mulch the bed with freshly cut grass with such frequent planting, even if the grass is very small. After all, you need to mulch with a thick layer, and so that the grass does not touch the stems of the plant. When I plant potatoes with tubers, I mulch as I said in the article

But lucky. I found a stale pile of grass in the forest, one of the neighbors took this pile into the forest a week ago, brought the grass to the site and mulched it.

The difference between fresh grass and grass that has been stacked for a week is obvious in the photo, but still, it is impossible to convey the full picture to you, so there is a video below in the article, after watching it, you will understand what I am talking about.

When small cut grass lies in a stack for a week, its volume decreases several times, the grass is molded like clay, and it is easy to spread it between such dense plantings. Spread out like this so that it does not touch the stems cultivated plants and with a thick layer.

The smell from this herb disappears after an hour, and the herb itself becomes a dried crust after 3-4 hours if in the sun. When watering does not fall apart, unless you do it on purpose. Soil inhabitants eat this thick layer in about 1.5 -2 months.

There was no further potato care, it rained, it was good rain, and there was no need to water the potatoes all summer. It rained almost every day, sometimes 2-3 times a day. This summer, in the Moscow region, the rainfall norm was exceeded several times. The advantage was obvious.

Late blight appeared not only on potatoes from sprouts. Early potatoes were harvested before late blight, and the tops of late and medium potatoes were severely affected.

About how I grow early potatoes - I’ll tell you about the experiment on growing potatoes in a bucket -

Harvesting potato sprouts.

Due to late blight, potatoes were harvested a month earlier than necessary. To tell the truth, I thought that there would be no potatoes at all! Or there will be potatoes, but with Walnut!

What is the name of the variety of potatoes that I planted - I do not know. You can read how the first reproduction of this variety grew - I got 90 kg from 5 sq.m, the result of the 4th reproduction, I got 100 kg from 5 sq.m. This year I planted the 5th reproduction with sprouts.

Video "Growing potatoes from sprouts":

I will answer your questions in the comments.

To the question All the same, how to plant potatoes, sprouts down or up? given by the author Insufficient salting the best answer is In my opinion - it doesn’t really matter how to plant, especially if you plant a lot (I have 3 acres allotted specifically for potatoes, and if I conjure over each potato, how long will it take). Instead of giving birth - there can be several reasons. Here are a few - what year of reproduction do you have planting material(the limit is 5-6 years, after that the tubers become smaller, there are less and less of them in the bush). Potatoes must be pre-prepared - green and sprouted. Landing should be done only in HUMID (but not wet) soil, i.e. if plowed, it should be planted immediately, maximum the next day. When I started to grow potatoes, I made this mistake the first time. She plowed the land (with a tractor), planted part on the very first day, and part - a week later, well, she had a gulkin nose from the second part. Well, and further, with the growth of potatoes, there are several agricultural practices that increase yields.

Answer from 22 answers[guru]

Hey! Here is a selection of topics with answers to your question: All the same, how to plant potatoes, sprouts down or up?

Answer from microscopic[master]
sprouts due east

Answer from Alexander Gorin[newbie]
up, up!

Answer from I-beam[guru]
What difference does it make, it will grow as it should.

Answer from Diam[guru]
It seems to me that this will not affect the yield.

Answer from Faith N[guru]
We're trying to go up...

Answer from Alisa Wilman[newbie]
better, of course, up, otherwise until the sprout turns inside out ...

Answer from Lobsang[guru]
The main thing is not to break off. It’s better to keep it in the sun for a couple of weeks, that is, on a set, then plant it. I don’t understand something, in which regions are they going to plant potatoes? Second question in five minutes. Or is it according to the principle: prepare a sleigh in the summer?

Answer from Alexander Glazkov[master]
preferably up
and it doesn't really matter at all.

Answer from Ruff[guru]
I usually cut each potato into 2-4 parts so that each one has eyes. And I dig into the ground with these eyes up. From each part, a completely wow plant develops. If you want to pervert, I plant at all potato peelings having eyes and sprouts (sprouts up). Before burying all this, I stand potatoes or peelings for 10-14 days in the sun (in the light) - so that they turn green. Look - each potato has a wide part and narrow "butts" - these "butts" have the most eyes. The part where there are a lot of them, when instilled, should look up.
What does not particularly give birth depends on the composition of the soil and agricultural technology. I made the first beds in virgin lands, for the first three years (with crop rotation, of course) potatoes grew no more than peas. BUT recent times Nothing, about the size of a fist. And the soil was formed (it brought in manure, ash, peat, compost), and learned to take care (water, hill). I usually plant on the May holidays or a little later. Moscow region.
Nothing more to add))

Answer from YULEPASHA[guru]
And you try new varieties, maybe yours has already "bred" and therefore weak harvests.

Answer from Bagheera[guru]
Sprouts up!

Answer from Maxi[guru]
Up, but this is not the only and not the main condition good harvest. People who plant 50 acres of a garden (not to mention potato fields) are simply not able to lay each potato separately, they leave it as they have to, but they get a good harvest. The main thing in this business is good loose soil and timely processing. And the seed material plays an important role.

Answer from Ludmila[guru]
Sprouts up! A stem grows from it. I have 10 acres, more than 10 varieties, and when planting, I bend over each one so that it is "up". I enter every year new variety what you like, what you don't. The main thing is to warm up a couple of weeks before planting. Try different varieties. For example, I don’t have white varieties, or maybe I haven’t found one yet.

Answer from LARISA ZHUKOVA[guru]
If you plant in the usual way (into the ground), then it’s still up or down, the base of the eyes will in any case come into contact with the ground.
If planted under straw, that is, laying potatoes on the ground and covering with straw, then with sprouts to the ground so that the roots find the ground faster.

Answer from Irina Leshukova[guru]
Still bother with potatoes. Threw, as it falls, so it will grow. The main thing is that the variety is good and planting on time.

Answer from Marina Dolskaya[guru]
Only up, because it's already shoots. And in order for the coil to succeed, pay attention to the planting material. Firstly, it must be a zoned variety, secondly, the sprouts must be thick and not very long, and thirdly, the potato itself should not be too small. If the soil is heavy, it must be mixed with sand. It is very useful to add wood ash to the wells.

Answer from Anyusha[newbie]
Even if you plant seedlings down, they will still come out to the top (heteroauxin-mediated apical growth).

Properly determined tuber planting depth ensures rapid germination of tubers, Oleg Telepov writes in his articles. Plants develop from a large number stems and a more powerful root system, which contributes to the accumulation of the crop, creates Better conditions for planting and harvesting.

"For the last 9 years, I have not used plowing and digging the soil in my garden. All crops grow on narrow beds with mulched aisles. At first, this only exacerbated the contradictions with the landing depth. The very planting and harvesting of potatoes disturbed the soil structure. Over time, I found a way to plant tubers without deepening into the soil more than 5 cm from bottom surface soil - used straw, hay, foliage, and other organic residues for mulch," the vegetable grower writes.

With this method of planting, it becomes impossible to hill the bushes, which reduces the potential yield of tubers. After all, stolons appear only on the white part of the stem, closed from light. Additional roots appear only in a moist substrate. The question arose: how to increase the length of the stem under the soil surface without deepening the tubers? And the answer turned out to be very simple. You just need to germinate the tubers to a length of shoots of 2-3 cm and plant the seed material down with shoots. More precisely, I arrange the tuber so that the sprouts are under the tuber, and have maximum contact with the soil - the barrel. (Picture 1)

Reasons here are simple. The roots do not grow from a tuber, but from sprouts. And since the tubers do not deepen, then you need to make sure that the roots quickly go into the soil. Under the loose layer, rich in organic matter, there is a dense, undigged layer. The density of this layer provides a powerful capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. The structure of this layer is not disturbed by the intervention of a shovel and it remains similar to a sponge, with an abundance of pores from the passages of worms and decomposed roots. These air-filled pores provide excellent aeration to the potato roots.

In addition, with such a planting, the length of the etiolated (uncolored) section of the stems greatly increases. Roots and stolons actively grow in this area. There is a kind of hilling effect, without hilling. Compare length white area on the left tuber - the usual landing, and on the right - down with sprouts.

Moreover, the stolons are located in a loose substrate, which is very important for potatoes. In dense soil, up to 50% of stolons do not form tubers of normal size.

Another advantage of planting down with sprouts is that the bush sprouts wider than when planting with sprouts up - compare figures 2 and 3. Rounding the uterine tuber, the sprouts diverge to the sides. Some removal of trunks in the bush contributes better lighting seedlings, which means better photosynthesis - the development of plants in the initial, very important period.

Anyone who decides to plant tubers down with sprouts should be prepared for the fact that potatoes will sprout later than from tubers planted upside down. With a no-till planting method, like mine, this is not a problem. It takes a little longer to rise, but you can plant it earlier - upper layer warms up faster, and I don't need to deepen.

When planting upwards with sprouts, the same length of the underground part of the stems can be grown using hilling (compare figures 4 and 5. In both figures, the length of the etiolated stem is the same). Planting sprouts down avoids this time-consuming and development-delaying operation. If you want to get fresh tubers early, you can also use planting down with sprouts. I also do this successfully. I mix the tubers with sprouts 1-2 cm long down with sprouts in a box and completely fall asleep with DRY sawdust. In a dry substrate, roots do not form, but sprouts change direction of growth and rise to the surface.

Whenever deciding whether to plant upside down or downside down when planting potato tubers, remember that crop tubers will form on offshoots - stolons - that radiate from the plant's stem.

Andreev Vyacheslav

For several years of communication with amateur potato growers in the Omsk club of potato growers, I had to answer many questions. Most often, gardeners were interested in tuber planting patterns.

They asked: “What is the best row spacing? How often should tubers be placed in a row? These questions are very important for any crop and, of course, for potatoes too. After all, these parameters determine the degree of illumination of plants, the intensity of photosynthesis, and, hence, the yield.

But very rarely one could hear the question about the depth of planting potatoes. This is taken for granted. Well, what is there to think? I dug with a shovel - that's the depth. This is what most potato growers do. However, the planting depth also has great importance. Properly determined tuber planting depth ensures rapid germination of tubers. Plants develop with a large number of stems and a more powerful root system, which contributes to the accumulation of crops, creates better conditions for caring for plantings and harvesting.

So, How deep should tubers be planted to get the maximum yield?

Many studies have been devoted to the issues of the depth of planting potatoes, but there is no consensus on what depth it is more expedient to plant potatoes.

Usually the planting depth can be from 5 to 15 cm from the top side of the tuber to the soil surface. It depends on the timing of planting, moisture availability, soil structure and other factors:

• at early landing in unheated soil, the tuber should be closer to the surface, since the surface layer of the soil warms up earlier, and the potato does not experience a lack of heat here;

• with a dry spring and the inability to water the plants in initial period planting should be as deep as possible, otherwise the plants will develop slowly due to lack of moisture;

• on light sandy and sandy soils, planting may be deeper than on loamy and clay soils. This is due to the presence of air in the soil - sand and sandy loam, as a rule, are more aerated.

• when planted shallow, the potato nest will form close to the soil surface, resulting in a large number greenish tubers that have come to the surface. Shallow planting of tubers makes subsequent hilling of potatoes necessary.

• with deep incorporation of seed tubers, a lot of time is required for sprouts to come to the surface. The faster the potatoes rise, the higher the yield will be. In addition, in this case, the number of plants suffering from rhizoctoniosis increases, which is why seedlings are sparse and weakened. Too deep planting can lead to a decrease in yield, the yield of small tubers increases. The tubers often become ugly. Tubers and roots need a lot of air, but at depth it may not be enough. In addition, deep planting makes harvesting potatoes more difficult.

In any case, you should try to plant the tubers at the same depth to ensure even seedlings. In the future, this will avoid the oppression of some potato plants by others.

We, in the south of the Omsk region, are developing peculiar weather. Short growing season, spring-summer dryness and high temperatures July, as well as heavy loams in my area, make their own adjustments to the choice of potato planting depth.

The lack of spring moisture (insufficient snow cover thickness) and precipitation in summer require a deeper planting - the topsoil dries quickly. The July heat (up to 40 degrees) also suggests a deeper planting - when the soil is heated above 28 degrees, the potato stops the filling of tubers.

On the other hand, deep planting is not desirable with us: a short growing season requires potatoes to rise earlier. On heavy loams, potatoes at depth produce a low yield of small and often ugly tubers - the soil is too dense and poorly aerated.

For the last eight years in my garden, I have not used plowing and digging the soil. All crops grow in narrow beds with mulched aisles. At first, this only exacerbated the contradictions with the landing depth. The very planting and harvesting of potatoes disturbed the soil structure. Over time, he found a way to plant tubers without deepening them into the soil more than 5 cm from the surface. For this, he began to use mulching - he used straw, hay, foliage, and other organic residues as mulch. I have already talked about this in my articles.

With this method of planting, it becomes impossible to hill the bushes, and this reduces the potential yield of tubers. After all, stolons appear only on the white part of the stem, closed from light. Additional roots form only in a moist substrate. The question arose: how to increase the length of the stem under the soil surface without deepening the tubers? And the answer turned out to be very simple. You just need to germinate the tubers to a sprout length of 2-3 cm (see photo), and then plant the seed material down with sprouts. To be more precise, I place the germinated potatoes in the soil so that its sprouts are below the tuber and have maximum contact with the soil.

The reason here is simple. The roots do not grow from a tuber, but from sprouts. And since the tubers do not deepen, then you need to make sure that the roots quickly go into the soil. Under the loose layer, rich in organic matter, there is a dense, undigged layer. The density of this layer provides a powerful capillary rise of moisture from the underlying layers. The structure of this layer is not disturbed by the intervention of a shovel, and it remains similar to a sponge, with an abundance of pores from the passages of worms and decomposed roots. These pores are filled with air and provide good aeration to the potato roots.

In addition, with such a planting, the length of the etiolated (uncolored) section of the stems greatly increases. Roots and stolons actively grow in this area. There is a kind of hilling effect, without hilling. Moreover, the stolons are located in a loose substrate, which is very important for potatoes. In dense soil, up to 50% of stolons do not form tubers of normal size.

Another advantage of planting down with sprouts is that the bush is formed wider than when planting with sprouts up. Rounding the uterine tuber, the sprouts diverge to the sides. Some removal of trunks in the bush contributes to better illumination of seedlings, which means better photosynthesis - the development of plants in the initial, very important period.

Potatoes respond to such a planting high yield. In the photo you can see the selection from the Bars hybrid population, the average yield per bush is 3 kilograms. Maximum - 5, 6 kg. 700 kg (17.5 bags) were collected from a hundred square meters. Digging potatoes with this planting is much easier than with deep planting upside down - the tubers are all under the mulch.

While researching the development of potatoes planted upside down, I noticed another unexpected effect of planting downside down - active tillering of the sprout. But it doesn't always show up. In my experiments, this happened on 15% of the tubers. Later, I found a way to make all the sprouts bush. To do this, pinch the tip of the sprout. This technique allows you to get a multi-stemmed bush with the development of 1-2 sprouts at the top of the tuber (apical dominance). Moreover, the tubers in such bushes are all large. I explain this by the lack of competition within the bush. In an ordinary multi-stemmed bush, each stem is single plant. And they compete with each other for light and nutrient solutions. As a result, 1-2 large or many small tubers are formed on each stem-plant. On a plant grown from one sprout, but branched underground, the tubers are large. And due to the increased etiolated section of the stems, there are many tubers.

Anyone who decides to plant tubers down with sprouts should be prepared for the fact that potatoes will sprout later than from tubers planted upside down. With a no-till planting method, like mine, this is not a problem. It takes a little longer to rise, but it can also be planted earlier - the top layer warms up faster, and I don’t need to deepen the tubers.

When planting potatoes upside down with sprouts, you can increase the same length of the underground part of the stems using hilling. Simply planting seedlings down avoids such a time-consuming and development-delaying operation.

If you want to get fresh tubers earlier, you can also use planting down with sprouts. This is what I do successfully. Tubers with sprouts 1-2 cm long, I stir them down with sprouts in a box and completely fall asleep dry sawdust. In a dry substrate, roots do not form, but sprouts change direction of growth and rise to the surface. By the time of planting, many thick, juicy sprouts have formed on the tuber, which are already aimed at developing to the soil surface, you can see this in the photo.

With any choice of planting method - upside down or down - you must remember that potato tubers will form on branches - stolons that come from the stem of the plant, i.e. above the mother tuber.

Oleg Telepov, member of the Omsk Club of Potato Growers