What fruit trees to plant on the site. How to place fruit plants in a separate area

When purchasing a land plot and drawing up a plan for a future home, you definitely need to think about the placement of trees and shrubs, which are always planted first. This is due not only to the dimensions of the plants, but also to a relatively long period of growth until full flowering or fruiting. Of course, plant all decorative and fruit trees in the summer cottage is impossible due to the limited territory, so you have to choose.

And when deciding which trees to plant on the site, you need to focus on two principles:

• growing conditions: demanding or unpretentious species;
• main purpose or place in garden landscape(garden, hedge, single landing).

If we talk about fruit trees, then the simplest care is required for apple trees (especially if you purchase a seedling of local selection that is resistant to common diseases and pests). Of course, unpretentious varieties do not have high taste, but they will not bring any trouble either. But if you want to surprise your neighbors with something exotic, then you should think about planting a yellow plum, actinidia, walnut or peach.

The same principle applies to ornamental trees and shrubs. For example, for a hedge, you can use wild grapes, honeysuckle or drooping lilac, with minimum requirements to soil and climatic conditions, or you can decorate the site with juniper, barberry or hawthorn, for which you need a little more attention.

If you decide to plant a tree in the country, be sure to check the depth ground water. Very many trees, both fruit and ornamental, die as soon as their roots reach the water. These trees include a pear, which has a deeply penetrating root system. At first, the young seedling grows actively and pleases the owner, it may even be possible to try the first fruits, but then the tree begins to wither and dry out. Inexperienced gardeners complain about disease or poor quality planting material and buy and plant pear seedlings again.

In order for tree plantings to really become durable, it is necessary to take into account the requirements of each species for growing conditions.

Overview of fruit trees and their features

Many, having a summer cottage, want to plant fruit trees in the garden. For good fruiting, they need high level lighting, top dressing, watering, pruning and preventive treatments for diseases and pests.

Planting several varieties with the same ripening period favorably affects the yield. To save space on the site, it is better to choose varieties with a compact crown shape on dwarf rootstocks. Below is a brief description of the main fruit crops according to the most significant parameters.

culture	Average life expectancy, years	Average tree height, m	Required feeding area, m	Preferred Soils	Permissible depth of groundwater, m
Apple tree	from 20 to 50	3 to 7	3x2 or 6x4	subacid	1 to 3
Pear	25	5	5x4	any	2
Cherry	25	2 to 5	4x3	neutral	2
Cherries	60	3 to 8	4x4 or 8x4	neutral	1,5
Plum	20	5	4x3	neutral	1,5
cherry plum	20	2,5	3x3	neutral	1
Apricot	40-60	5 to 10	5x6	slightly alkaline	2-2,5
viburnum	40	2,5	2x2	subacid	1
Irga	50	2,5	3x2	neutral	1,5
Honeysuckle	20	1,5	2x1	any	1,5
Sea ​​buckthorn	15	3 to 5	2x2	neutral	1
Rowan	25	7	5x3	subacid	2
Hazel	60	5	4x4	slightly alkaline	3

When choosing a fruit tree for suburban area plays an important role not only taste preferences but also the climatic zone. For example, chokeberry is recommended for the northern regions, as is honeysuckle with sea buckthorn, brought to central Russia from Siberia.

Heat-loving cherry plums, plums, sweet cherries and cherries do well in the southern regions. However, selection does not stand still, and many cultures adapt perfectly to atypical regions thanks to a stable rootstock. An excellent example of this is the Manchurian apricot and Siberian apricot, which are suitable for growing in Siberia and Far East. And although such an apricot has a specific non-winning taste, it is quite successful in processing.

Manchurian apricot - mature tree

For rational use plot, you can use a graft that allows you to have several interesting varieties on one adult tree.

Overview of ornamental trees and shrubs

Ornamental trees have not only an aesthetic function, but are often planted for shade at the gazebo, to protect from dust from the road, to create a living border along the fence. Features of care depend on the type of plant and growing area.

There are trees that it is undesirable to plant on a private plot due to aggressive growth or because of folk signs. Consider the most popular decorative trees and shrubs in private landscape design in terms of care features and possible use.

Norway maple Globozum

culture	Short description	Usage	Note
Linden small-leaved	A tree up to 30 m high with a neat oval crown, high frost resistance, does not tolerate drought, the crown lends itself well to formation	A shady tree with a pleasant fragrance during flowering, is a honey plant, can be used for hedges or planting along a fence, well retains dust from the road	Linden near the house, according to old legends, protects against all diseases and ailments. A young tree does not bloom, the first flowering is observed only at the age of 20-30, linden blossom is used in traditional medicine
Norway maple	A tree up to 6 m high with a compact spherical crown, does not need frequent pruning, grows on any soil	Good for creating shade near the house or above artificial pond, often planted along a fence or road	Used in folk medicine and cooking
Common bird cherry	A tree with a height of 4 to 10 m, known for its snow-white racemose inflorescences with a bright aroma, undemanding to growing conditions	Due to the spreading wide crown, it is often planted singly on the edge of the site or in the alleys in a large garden.	You can not plant close to the house, as its roots destroy the foundation; gives edible fruit with medicinal properties
Poplar white (silver)	A fast-growing tree up to 30 m high with a spreading crown, has a light bark and silvery leaves, light-loving, salt-tolerant, tolerates drought and waterlogging, frost-resistant	Used in single or group plantings. For urban landscaping, pyramidal poplar is more often used, which does not form fluff, but has a greater height.	It is undesirable to plant close to the house due to the aggressive root system, it cleans the air well from dust and harmful substances
Catalpa	Heat-loving tree 10-15 m high with a high spherical crown and an elegant even trunk, inflorescences are large, white, long pods are formed after flowering, giving additional decorativeness, does not tolerate pruning	Single plantings near the gazebo or near the house, during the flowering period it exudes a very pleasant aroma, it grows relatively slowly, it can freeze slightly in the Moscow region	People call it "macaroni tree"
Lilac	profusely blooming unpretentious shrub height from 3 to 6 m, the color of fragrant inflorescences is white or lilac different shades, requires moderate pruning	Some varieties do not tolerate urban gas pollution, so it is undesirable to plant them near the road. Lilac is ideal for hedges	Considered by the people as a protector family well-being and source of inspiration for creative people
Barberry	Prickly shrub, 1 to 4 m high, with various different colors leaves (burgundy, yellow, green, purple), unpretentious care	Used to create an impenetrable wall of dense prickly branches.	Used in folk medicine, recommended for planting at home
Willow	Tree with drooping shoots, fast growing, easy to prune, tolerates significant waterlogging.	Planting near water bodies or on waterlogged soils, hedges	A symbol of sadness and sadness, in the old days it was considered bad omen plant a willow under the window

The list can be continued for a long time, especially if you cover all varieties and varieties. Breeders successfully cope with the task of "satisfying the needs of every gardener."

Trees unwanted in the garden plot according to ancient legends

Before planting a tree in front of the house, we can refer to the experience of our ancestors. At first glance, all signs are based on superstition, but they often have a logical grain.

It is not recommended to plant an oak tree in the summer cottage, which has strong energy and influences the head of the family. Birch as a protective shield should grow only behind the fence. Walnut should not be planted near the house, as its roots can destroy the foundation over time. Willow, willow and aspen, messengers of sorrow and death, are undesirable on the site.

If there are brides in the family, then it is also better to wait with the planting of the thuja. Poplar is recommended to be planted outside the site, away from home.

Overview of coniferous ornamental trees

Evergreen and rather unpretentious conifers serve as an indispensable element of a garden of any design.

For small areas of summer cottages, Arizona fir with gray-blue needles (up to 2 m high) and balsam fir (dwarf variety) are suitable. For those who want to grow a large tree, Korean fir (up to 15 m) is suitable.

Korean fir Silverlock

Dwarf varieties, reaching a height of up to 3 m, have Atlas cedar and Himalayan cedar. From krupnomer the Siberian cedar (cedar pine) enjoys deserved popularity. It grows slowly, but reaches a very impressive size.

Siberian cedar (cedar pine)

Larch and spruce are more often decorated country houses with large area personal plot. There are varieties of standard larch with a height of no more than 2.5 m with a spherical or weeping crown. Varieties of weeping larch look very impressive: European dwarf variety Repens up to 1.5 m high with branches almost creeping along the ground and the Japanese variety Pendula up to 7 m high with delicate green-blue needles.

Japanese Larch Pendula

Dwarf forms of spruce can reach a height of 2 - 2.5 m, which, with slow growth, become acceptable in areas of any size. There are a lot of varieties of dwarf spruce with a variety of needle colors and crown shapes. Blue spruces look the most beautiful and original, effectively standing out from the rest of the vegetation.

Spruce blue Hupsi

From coniferous shrubs having different shape crowns, yew and juniper can be noted. In the landscape design of private plots, dwarf juniper species with different needle colors (from dark green to silver-blue) up to 8 m high are used.

Terms of planting trees and buying seedlings

It is difficult to unequivocally answer the question of when it is better to plant trees. It depends on the weather conditions and specific culture. Optimal time planting fruit trees from the pome group is late autumn, and for heat-loving stone fruits landing is better in early spring. The preferred age of seedlings is 2 years, but for vigorous crops (pear, cherry) it is better to use annual seedlings. Negative side annual seedlings have an unformed crown, but they get sick less during transplantation and take root faster.

Most ornamental crops are planted in the spring. Moreover, the strict framework “before bud break” applies only to seedlings with an open root system. Planting material with a closed root system (in pots or bags) is suitable for planting throughout the spring and even summer, but it is more expensive.

When purchasing seedlings at specialized exhibitions and fairs, you need to pay attention to the following points:

• in what form they are sold: seedlings with open and dried roots have little chance of taking root on the site; good material packed in bags with a small lump of moist earth;
• the state of the root system: the roots should be even (without thickening), elastic and without signs of peeling;
• crown condition: buds should be swollen, but not blooming;
• bole height: for fruit 2-year-old seedlings about 50 cm;

It is recommended to buy planting material in nurseries that are in each region. Only there you can be sure of the quality of seedlings and choose plants adapted to a particular area. Varieties of fruit trees for the Moscow region and the entire central strip of Russia are grown in the Michurinsky fruit nursery.

In fruit trees and shrubs long life. The miscalculations made when laying the garden are not immediately visible, but in the future they are difficult to correct. How to lay with your own hands? After all, mistakes can even lead to the death of plants. It is important to correctly plan the site for the garden, to carry out a competent planting of fruit trees and shrubs.

Plot layout

When laying a personal plot, it is necessary to draw up a plan for the placement of buildings, plantations and

• the place of irrigation water supply and distribution over the site should be taken into account;
• buildings should be planned so that they do not impede watering (occupy hillocks and rocky areas with them)
• tall buildings and tall trees should be placed on the northern part of the estate so that they shade the site less.

The best for laying a garden are flat areas or gentle southern (southwestern) slopes, warm and well lit.
Wetlands, depressions, pits for the garden are unsuitable.
When choosing a site for a garden, its security is important, especially from the side of the prevailing winds. Forest, rocks, buildings, etc. can serve as protection.

Soil for trees

Fruit and berry plants grow best on fertile, loose soils. Soils on the site can be clay, sandy, loamy, peaty.
The subsoil should be sufficiently loose and permeable, and groundwater should be located no closer than 1.5-2 meters from the surface of the earth.

soil improvement

• stony soils are freed from stones lying in a thirty-centimeter layer;
• clay and peat are added to sandy soils that do not hold water well;
• heavy clays are improved with sand, peat, manure from sawdust, fallen leaves with the addition ammonium nitrate;
• the lands dry up.

Majority horticultural crops prefer slightly acidic soil pH-5.5-7. To reduce the harmful effects of acidity, lime is added to the soil (in the form of slaked lime, ground limestone, chalk, dolomite flour etc.) 1-2 years before planting, and in the future - once every 6-7 years

Bookmark an orchard

When planning the planting of fruit trees and shrubs, each crop is given a specific place. Location, food area depend on biological features each plant: relationship to heat, light, moisture, frost and drought resistance.
Tree vigor should decrease from north to south. Vigorous cultures are placed from the north, undersized - from the south side.
This distribution avoids shading and oppression of plants.
You need to know the natural needs of plants in solar energy.

• Light-loving species: chokeberry, gooseberry, red currant, and peach, cherry, plum, apple, pear and apricot
• Put up with shading: raspberries and.
• Cherries react to shading less than other trees.

Placement of fruit crops on the site

Strawberries can be planted on level ground or on ridges well lit by the sun, in the aisles of the vineyard.

Raspberries are placed on the edge of the site adjacent to the road so that it does not clog other crops with offspring.

Flowers and ornamental shrubs planted at the house and along the paths.

Requires an unshaded location south of tree plantations. Sites with pebble subsoil are suitable for it. used for vertical unshaded walls and for arbors.

It is desirable to plant fruit trees closer to the house, where the wind is weaker and warmer, and in winter snow will accumulate more.

For allocate the southern unshaded area

When laying a garden in a low area, only winter-hardy crops and varieties should be planted, giving preference to berries.

Buildings are trying to place on high places plot so that there is a runoff of water from the house.

Fruit trees on the site - how much to plant

Scroll fruit trees and shrubs in the backyard garden depends on:

• lot size,
• number of family members
• the taste of the owners,
• the location of the site and the presence of protection on it
• and others.

How many fruit trees in the garden - each garden owner makes his own choice.

Approximate set and number of fruit and berry plants for backyard garden on an area of ​​500-600 sq. m:

• and - 8-10 trees;
• cherry - 2-5 trees;
• shrub berries - 45-55 bushes, including:
• blackcurrant - 13-15;
• red - 3-5;
• gooseberries - 8-10;
• raspberries - 16-20;
• strawberries, strawberries - 50-100 sq. m;
• chokeberry - 5 bushes.

At the time of full fruiting in such a plot, 200-250 kg of fruits can be obtained; 120-160 kg of berries.

Planting fruit trees

Fruit and berry plants on the site are planted according to a specific plan, adhering to the following nutrition areas:

• apple tree, pear, mountain ash - 6x4 m;
• cherry, plum - 5-4x3 m;
• chokeberry, sea buckthorn - 3-2.5x2-2.5 m;
• currant, - 3-2x1-1.5 m;
• - 2-1.5x0.5 m;
• strawberries - 0.7-0.8 m between rows and 0.2-0.3 m in a row.
• from trees to the neighboring site should be 3-4 m.

Between tall trees, it is possible to plant such tree crops and berry bushes that would not delay the treatment of main trees with pesticides. Aisles of apple trees are not recommended to be planted with strawberries, raspberries, as they bloom exactly when the time for the main processing of apple trees comes.
You can expand the range of trees on the site by planting trees grafted onto medium-sized and dwarf rootstocks. Due to this, landings can be significantly compacted.

Planting fruit trees depending on rootstocks

• Apple tree on vigorous rootstocks, cherry, apricot - 6–5X4–3;
• Apple tree on clonal rootstocks above average growth force (M3, M4), pear on pear, plum - 5–4.5X3.5–3;
• Apple tree on clonal rootstocks of medium vigor (M2, M7, MM106), cherry, cherry plum - 4.5-4X3-2.5;
• Quince, peach - 4X2.5-2;
• Apple tree on dwarf rootstock M9, pear tree on quince - 2.5-2X2-1 (0.5).

When designing the location of fruit trees on the site, you need to study the description of the varieties, take into account the strength of each growth.
After planning, 400-600 kg of manure or 600-800 kg of peat-dung compost are applied to the site, and with high soil acidity, up to 50-100 kg of lime or dolomite flour per hundred square meters.

When to plant fruit trees

Raspberry, currant, chokeberry and Nevezhinsky mountain ash, gooseberry seedlings are best planted in the fall (at the beginning. In the spring, planting berries is desirable before bud break.
possible in spring (second half of April - early May) and autumn. Autumn planting of apple trees is best done between September 25 and October 10-15.
Cherries, other stone fruits and pears are best planted in spring.
seedlings for spring planting kept in a prikope, protecting them from mice. Digging and filling holes with fertilizers for spring planting is done in the fall.
The best time for planting seedlings is the first half of August. Spring planting is acceptable - in late April - early May. During spring planting, the first good harvest strawberries can be obtained as early as next year.
How to plant a garden? This can be done by hand. You need a little knowledge, work and a lot of love for the earth and plants.

The layout of the garden and vegetable garden will help to solve many problems for its competent arrangement and obtaining the required amount of crop. Inexperienced summer residents and gardeners, having planted their own comfortable garden, complain that there is not the required abundance of fruits and fruits that they counted on.

Option 3D layout of a plot of 15 acres with the location of the garden, house and vegetable garden

The layout of the site is considered the most important stage in its arrangement. The layout of the summer cottage and garden plot directly begins with a preliminary study of the soil where garden and garden crops are to be grown, and the climatic conditions that affect the number of fruits. If the soil is excessively clayey or with sand impurities, then you need to additionally add peat to it, feed it with black soil, other substances and fertilizers, on which the proper nutrition of the roots will directly depend.

In the climate, the fundamental factor that negatively affects the fruiting process is:

• excess moisture;
• frosty winters;
• spring frosts.

Therefore, it is important to select trees and crops that are most suitable for a particular region.

Sketch and layout of the garden, garden and the entire plot of 10 acres

Important aspects are the layout of the garden and the competent selection of trees. The most frost-resistant trees are locally bred. They perfectly adapt to any climatic conditions and give good result if not annually, then every other year. The hardiest trees are cherries, pears, apples, and plums. The least resistant to frost and high humidity considered apricots and peaches.

Sweet cherry does not tolerate closely located groundwater at all, and if reclamation is not carried out in time, then in just a few years it will dry up.

Layout of the arrangement of a small suburban area

There are a variety of gardens, therefore, when choosing the required assortment of trees and plants, it is necessary to take into account their future productivity.

An example of planning a vegetable garden and a garden on a small plot

To determine how many trees to plant on garden plot, you must first mark up the summer cottage, taking into account the existing buildings. This must be done because each object casts a shadow, so when planting bushes, trees and other crops in the shade of buildings, they will not bear fruit, but will be drawn into the natural light area. This will continue until the top of the plants is slightly above the barrier that restricts access to natural light.

Therefore, on the developed plan, it is necessary to indicate the height of each existing building and the cardinal points. It should be noted that the shadow, most likely, will be located from the east and west, somewhat narrowing towards the south. It is necessary to shade the places on the diagram where the shadow is more than half a day. These places are not suitable for planting plants.

In shady places, you can lay decorative paths, equip lawns, a pond, make flower beds. In order for the trees to provide a good harvest, the shade area must be excluded from the planting plan.

How to combine a garden and a vegetable garden

The layout of the garden and the garden is considered to be a rather important stage, because it is necessary to correctly distribute the usable area. starts with the idea of ​​​​the direct arrangement of the beds, which must be perfect. If you need a garden and garden layout, then you need to do two separate schemes, which will display the suburban area at different times of the year. Thus, it is possible to achieve a more competent distribution of free space. When making calculations, it is necessary to take into account not only the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage itself, but also take into account the fact that planted crops can grow over time.

Drawing and layout of a plot of 6 acres with a combination of a garden and a vegetable garden

In addition, it is worth remembering that the planting of vegetable and horticultural crops should not be done too tightly. It is necessary to consider where the garden will be located on the equipped summer cottage. Experienced gardeners it is recommended to plant all crops on the south side, however, if this is not possible, then it is worth picking up sunny areas, but with some periods of shade.

Be sure to take into account the rules for planting each plant, its compatibility with neighboring crops, the need for natural sunlight and fertilizer, the frequency of watering.

It is carried out taking into account the periods of fruiting of all available trees and shrubs. It is best to place all crops in the garden and in the garden, taking into account the periods of their full ripening. The scheme for planting all crops in the country must certainly be planned very competently. In order to think everything over correctly, you need to prepare a photo of your dacha with adjacent land.

Read also

Design of the courtyard of a private house

The scheme of planting plants in the garden and vegetable garden on a plot of 20 acres

Initially, on the diagram, you need to draw the location of the house, and if the site is not yet fully equipped, then you need to indicate its estimated location and size. It is necessary to designate not only the size of the garden and garden itself, but also their distance from the boundaries of a certain area. Thinking over the design of the cottage, you can diversify the site with flowers. This will give it a beautiful decorative look, help you look at your garden and vegetable garden in a completely new way.

What can be models for planning a garden and a vegetable garden

may be the most various options carrying out the planning of the garden and vegetable garden, but with each of them it is necessary to take into account:

• the number of marked acres;
• feature of the soil of the garden;
• the required number of equipped beds.

Layout and placement of beds in a garden of 4 acres

Ideal for those who prefer furnishing quite unpretentious garden and vegetable garden, implying the use of predominantly ornamental crops and green spaces. Often such a model is a circle shape. Inside it should be exquisite beautiful flowers and other plants to fully show all their beauty.

Outside, a certain design is created, consisting of green spaces. It is best if these are low shrubs so that you can fully demonstrate the beauty of the planted flowers. If the dimensions of the summer cottage are quite impressive, then fruit trees are planted behind a semicircle, the number of which directly depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe proposed model. Enough interesting option is a rectangular shape.

Drawing and layout of the site

The peculiarity of this model implies that in this case it is necessary to plan the garden and the garden together. Often, the design of such a summer cottage involves the use square shape. The peculiarity of such a plot is that it is possible to plant as many beds of vegetables as the size of the plot allows.

Near horticultural crops you can arrange a few berry bushes. For best view suburban area costs extra, but place them a little far from all other cultures. A feature of this layout is that with all the abundance of species, the original form remains.

Sketch and layout of landings on a plot of 5 acres

interesting and unusual option is the free planning of the available land. The shape and size of such a plot depend directly on the available acres. When developing such a scheme, one must take into account whether it is possible to combine several different cultures with fruit trees.

If the area of ​​​​land for the garden remains quite small, then it is best to use the arrangement method vertical beds. On nets and various supports, tall vegetable and legumes. When organizing a garden, it is necessary to take into account the compatibility of crops, the need for a well-arranged natural light. In addition, it is worth considering that you do not need to plant old trees for. In this case, young seedlings are quite suitable.

How to make the best choice for arranging an orchard

Considering various kinds landscape tricks, you can competently equip your plot of land, taking into account all the norms and requirements. To organize the site with your own hands, you must first correctly select the place for arranging the future orchard, select the types and varieties of trees, while taking into account the existing natural and climatic conditions in the country.

equipping orchard and a garden, you need to remember that the depth of groundwater should be no more than 1.5 m. Otherwise, to significantly lower the level of groundwater, you will have to make certain channels or lay drainage pipes. Trees located on land plot with high groundwater, will be:

• grow poorly;
• give a rather low yield;
• do not tolerate winter frosts;
• be subject to fungal diseases.

Project and layout of the garden on a plot of 10 acres

Plants located in the country will help determine the acidity of the earth. Areas where cereals and legumes thrive are ideal for gardening. If there is a lot of sorrel on the ground in the country house, this means that the soil is quite acidic, which can adversely affect the normal fruiting of trees. You can reduce the acidity of the soil by adding lime to it. The program for arranging a garden and vegetable garden implies a preliminary study of the relief of the site.

And green spaces must certainly receive plenty of sunlight and heat. It should be borne in mind that the plants should not be located in the shade of the house or other plantings located on the site.

Having a private house and a plot, any owner thinks about the layout of his own garden, as well as what fruit trees to plant in it. To enjoy lush bloom plants of your offspring, the aroma and taste of fruits from trees, you need to know how to properly plant a garden.

If a gardener has his own land near a private house at his disposal, and his desire to supply his family with healthy and fresh fruits is very great, you should think about preparatory work prior to tree planting.

It is necessary to allocate an open and well-lit place for fruit planting. It must be with high location ground water. It is best not to bookmark in the lowlands. Most fruit crops prefer to grow, fully illuminated by the sun's rays.

In the future, light-loving crops will need to be located on the southwest or south side. If the area is small, they are advised to plant in steps. This is done so that tall plants located closer to the north, and low - closer to the south.

When preparing the land, it is required to remove wild shrubs from it, as well as old unnecessary stumps, stones and everything that will interfere with the normal existence of fruit trees. Further, deep plowing or digging is carried out with the obligatory turnover of the reservoir. After that, watering and deep cultivation are necessary.

In order to know in the future what kind of agrotechnical care measures will be required, it is recommended to give a sample of land for research to a chemical laboratory. The results will help the gardener decide what top dressing and how much to apply during autumn processing.

Usually in landing pits put humus or humus, mineral complexes, as well as slaked lime, biological preparations for the protection of plantings from diseases and pests.

Thinking about how to plant a garden on the site, it is advised to draw a breakdown scheme for planting fruit trees. For each crop, about 4 square meters are allocated. m of area, that is, planting pits should be placed at a distance of at least 4 m from each other, between the rows they leave from 2.5 to 3 m. Then all the trees will be comfortable.

When preparing planting pits, it is important which seedlings will be placed in them: for two-year-olds, the size of the hole is 60 × 60 cm, for three-year-olds, a hole of 70 × 80 cm is needed. Planting of seedlings is planned for spring, introducing the recommended soil mixture into the pits.

A couple of days before planting, seedlings must be placed in a container with a growth stimulator. Suitable "Kornevin", "Fitosporin" or another drug. A few weeks before planting seedlings in the planting pits, you need to pour part of the soil mixture into a cone.

Video "Decorative trees for the garden"

In this video you will learn how ornamental trees decorate the area.

Choose a style

At the stage of drawing up the plan, it is important to decide on the scheme for planting fruit trees. They practice styles such as regular (aka geometric) and landscape, which is considered natural. Next, we will describe in detail what each of these styles is.

landscaped or natural

Because in natural conditions trees do not grow according to any pattern, but in a chaotic manner, then the landscape style looks as natural as possible. In this case, fruit trees can be placed according to your taste, but with the obligatory consideration of their compatibility with each other, as well as other important factors.

Plant compatibility is called allelopathy. For example, it is best achieved by placing fruit trees of the same type next to each other: pears with pears, apple trees with apple trees, etc. But since such uniformity is boring, trees that are compatible with each other are most often planted: an apple tree will not mind close proximity to a red mountain ash, but it is better not to plant a peach or cherry near it. Walnuts, for example, generally need to be placed apart, away from other plants.

To do everything right, before planting crops, it is advised to check their allelopathy according to a standard table. landscape style placement of crops suitable for uneven areas with hills and valleys. It is these "shortcomings" that make it possible to create the illusion of a natural, that is, natural composition of fruit trees.

Regular or geometric

Based on the name, the selected types of crops should be placed so that they form symmetrical shapes - rectangles or squares. Disembarkation Recommended fruit rows so that there are straight lines between them. This excellent option is called quadratic and involves the creation of convenient conditions for the care of plantings in the future.

There are geometric tree layouts tested by many gardeners. If you plant them in a checkerboard pattern, then you need to place an additional tree in the center of each of the squares. This planting option is perfect for medium-sized crops with a compact crown.

There is also a triangular type of arrangement of seedlings, used in the presence of trees with large crowns, as well as horizontal. The latter involves the presence of a slope and the creation of ledges.

What trees to plant

So, it is important for the gardener to decide which trees are best planted in the garden, so that these crops not only combine normally with each other, but also grow and bear fruit. It is necessary to choose those that, due to their features, will be comfortable in your latitudes. For example, in middle lane our country is growing well different varieties apple and pear trees, cherry crops, as well as plums and cherry plums. Residents of warm latitudes should give preference to apricots and cherries.

Also, usually the selection of varieties of fruit trees is carried out with the expectation that they have the opportunity to participate in each other's pollination. It is better to explain with an example: if you plan to plant apple trees, you need to purchase seedlings, most of which belong to winter varieties. Then the fruits obtained from adult trees should be preserved after harvesting. appearance and taste qualities until spring.

Most often, the decision on how many trees to plant is made by each gardener, based on their preferences and needs. For orientation, it is worth noting that a family of 3-4 people will have enough to plant 2 summer apple trees and the same number of autumn varieties, 3 winter variety trees, a couple of pears, 4 cherries, and 4 plum crops in the country. Of the latter, you can buy 2 cherry plum seedlings and 2 plum trees.

As for the layout, in principle there are no special restrictions here. Fruit trees and berries can be placed apart and mixed or thicken one culture by another. Nevertheless, with separate planting, it is easier to carry out various activities for the destruction of pests and feeding trees.

Compact plantings allow the most complete use of the usable area of ​​the garden. To do this, trees of the same species, grafted on dwarf rootstocks, or cherry trees are planted between apple and pear trees. In young gardens, planted between fruit trees berry bushes, strawberries, vegetables. It is not necessary to plant high-stemmed crops in these aisles - tobacco, sunflower, corn. It is also not recommended to plant in the aisles. raspberries and blackberries: they litter the area with their offspring.

As a rule, fruit and berry crops are placed in gardens in straight rows.

Rows of apple and pear trees, and in the southern regions also apricots and cherries, are located at a distance of 6 m from each other, and there should be a distance of 8 m between trees in a row. With such distances, it is advisable to plant one cherry tree between two adjacent trees in a row, peach, quince, apple and pear grafted on dwarf rootstocks. If you plan to plant only berry or vegetable crops between rows, then the distance between trees in a row can be reduced to 6 m.

In the central and northeastern regions, plum and cherry are planted according to the 4x3 m scheme (4 m between rows and 3 m in a row), and in the southern regions 6x4 m. Peaches and quince are planted in separate plantings according to the 4x3 m scheme, and grapes - 2, 5x1.5 m.

The distances between buildings and trees should be at least 5-6 m and from the borders of the neighboring plot at least half the width of the aisle allotted for this crop. It is best to occupy the area along the border of the garden with neighboring plots with berry bushes. Usually, raspberries are planted to one border, and currants and gooseberries are planted to the other, retreating from the fence by 1 m.

When planting berry bushes, the following distances in rows are left: for raspberries - 0.75 m, for gooseberries and currants - 1.25 m each. If berries are planted in several rows, then the distances between rows are left: for raspberries - 1 m, for currants and gooseberries - 1.5 m each.

Before the trees begin to bear fruit, you can use the aisle for planting vegetables, potatoes, sometimes strawberries, currants and gooseberries. In the aisles, sowing and planting of raspberries, blackberries, tobacco, sunflowers, and corn is not allowed. These plants have a negative effect on fruit trees. Trunk circles cannot be occupied by inter-row crops.

As the trees grow, the number of plantings vegetable crops will steadily decrease. Aisles of apple trees can be used for 10-15 years, cherries and plums - 7-8 years.

In northern and western regions Russia is not recommended to plant more than 2-3 pear seedlings, as this crop is the least adapted to the harsh winter conditions. When choosing varieties and the number of apple seedlings, it must be borne in mind that it is better to plant an equal number of summer, winter and autumn varieties in order to increase the duration of fresh fruit picking. A feature of this crop is that it needs cross-pollination for fruiting, therefore, when laying a garden, it is necessary to plant pollinating varieties.

Remember that the yield does not depend on the number of trees. One well-groomed tree yields more than 4-5 neglected ones. Almost all garden plants very photophilous, they grow well, bloom and bear fruit only in areas open to light. Shading oppresses them, sharply reduces the yield and its quality. For this reason, close proximity of fruit trees and shrubs with tall forest and ornamental trees should not be allowed.

It is necessary to think carefully about the placement of all plantations in order to prevent gradual thickening and shading of both the entire area as a whole and each plant on it. It is necessary to draw up on paper an exact plan of the site on a scale of 1:50 or 1:100, that is, 1 cm on the plan is equal to 0.5 or 1 m on the site, and depict there the landing sites and projections of the full-grown crowns of all trees and bushes, the location of buildings, tracks. This is the only way to correctly calculate the number of trees and bushes, place them, find the area and shape of flower beds and beds.

By placing plantings on the plot, each gardener can show his imagination and invention, but the experience of amateur gardeners has already given reasonable and clear answers and solutions to a number of questions. For example, fruit trees and berry bushes should not be planted nearby. Currants, gooseberries and especially raspberries should be planted further from apple trees, and the latter should be planted separately from cherries and plums. Gooseberry bushes should not be planted next to blackcurrant bushes (sulfur preparations used in the fight against currant bud mites cause gooseberry leaves to fall off). Tall trees should not take light from undersized and shrubs. On the site you must have good track with a hard coating up to 1 m wide. Your plantings should not interfere with neighboring areas and shade them.

By the way

1. The apple tree gets along with pears, cherries, plums, quince, apple trees and does not tolerate proximity to cherries, viburnum, golden currants, barberries, lilacs, and mock oranges.
2. A pear will grow well next to an apple tree, red rowan, pear.
3. Cherry, plum, golden currant, viburnum, rose, lilac, mock orange, barberry oppress the pear.
4. A plum gets along with an apple tree and a plum, but not with a pear.
5. For cherries, apple, grapes and cherries will be suitable neighbors.
6. Potatoes growing in the aisles of apple trees literally poison the soil and, in fact, the life of apple trees. And so seriously that the taste of fruits worsens and their development is disturbed.
7. The fact that the smell of cabbage has a bad effect on grapes was already known in antiquity.

Important for the further growth and fruiting of trees are the timing of planting. Landing can be carried out approximately from April 20 to May 10 and from September 20 to October 20. However, it should be borne in mind that our country is large and in different regions winter comes sooner and later. Therefore, it is important to remember that tree planting is carried out only 20-25 days before the onset of frost.

In the spring, it is better to plant crops such as cherries and plums. Berries, on the contrary, are recommended to be planted in autumn, as their buds begin to swell even during the snowmelt period.

Many amateur gardeners are fond of planting mature trees 5-10 years old. Of course, this can be done if an adult tree is transplanted with a clod of earth weighing 3-4 tons. Transplanting such trees requires high costs labor and funds. And this is not for everyone. If an adult tree is transplanted without a coma, with short-cut roots, this will be of little use; it will not develop normally for a number of years and will not outstrip the trees planted with 2-3-year-old seedlings.

The younger the seedling, the easier it is to plant and the sooner and better it takes root.

Before planting, it is necessary to carefully inspect the planting material. An apple and pear seedling at the age of 2-3 years has at least three strong shoots 60-70 cm long. The seedling must have a guide (leading shoot). On examination, attention should be paid to the root system. It should be fibrous. Average length roots - up to 40 cm. The trunk of the seedling should not have mechanical damage. Before planting, the leaves are removed, which greatly reduces the risk of drying out the roots. The roots of seedlings are carefully examined and parts of diseased, dried, broken and damaged roots are cut out with a sharp garden knife when digging up plants from the nursery. The ends of healthy roots are trimmed (cut) very little. The longer the roots and the more branched they are, the better seedlings take root and develop further.

Each of the branches of the seedling crown is shortened by one third of the length. When shortening the branches, they should be cut to the so-called external (external) kidney. In this case, side shoots will develop to the sides and will not thicken the crown of the tree. Branches can be cut before planting, as well as after it.

Once the garden is planted, it will be quite difficult to till the soil, so to simplify this task, planting holes are dug before planting trees. The soil is removed, enriched with nutrients and returned to its original place. Medium fertile soils for apple and pear trees, pits are dug 60 cm deep, for cherries and plums - 40 cm, for berries - 35 cm. In soils with a shallow aquifer, the planting pit should be wide, but shallow. In insufficiently fertile soils, the pits are made wide, but at the same time deep.

If planting seedlings is planned for autumn, then it is better to dig planting holes 2-3 months before. For spring planting, the soil is prepared in the fall. Such compliance with the deadlines is necessary so that all acidic compounds that worsen the survival rate of seedlings have time to break down in the soil. Pits dug in heavy soils are sprinkled with well-fertilized soil for the winter in order to prevent them from being flooded with water.

Before you start digging holes, the plot intended for the garden is marked with stakes in the places where the trees will be located. To create an even row of seedlings, you can use landing board 2.0 m long, 12-15 cm wide and 2-3 cm thick. In the center of the board there should be a triangular cutout 4 cm deep. The same cutouts are made at the ends of the board, departing from the middle cutout by 75 cm.

For the correct and uniform development of the roots, it is necessary to dig holes with sheer walls. The pits are filled only with arable soil, fertilizers may not be applied. If there is not enough soil to fill, then it is taken from the top layer of row spacing. Low-value soil taken from the lower layer is used to level the site. Upper layer soils are thoroughly mixed with organic and mineral fertilizers: 8 buckets of compost or 4 buckets of humus, peat with 0.5 kg of superphosphate or 1 kg wood ash. Manure cannot be used for these purposes, since, decomposing without air, it gives various acidic compounds that have a detrimental effect on plants.

If the soil is clayey, then clay can be poured into the bottom of the pit with a layer of 5-8 cm. autumn planting use compost made of clay and silt with manure. The ratio of components is 1 part clay and 3 parts manure. To speed up the compost decay, add to the mixture a small amount of lime, about 2-3% of the total mass. Compost is brought into the pit in three layers, sprinkled with soil mixed with fertilizers. Composting in this way prevents minerals from being washed out of the soil.

The seedling is placed in a hole so that the root neck is 4-5 cm above the soil level. When filling the soil, you need to make sure that it fills all the voids between the roots. After that, the earth is compacted. The tree must be planted so firmly that considerable effort is required to pull it out. To prevent the tree from swaying in the wind, it is tied with soft wire to stakes. It is not recommended to pull the wire, because as the soil settles, the tree itself will also fall. A hole is made next to the trunk, where 2-3 buckets of water are poured. When the water is absorbed, the hole is sprinkled with humus or peat.

Before the first autumn frosts, the root system is insulated with soil, laying it in a mound 20-30 cm high. After the snow melts, the earth is raked and tied with roofing paper or juniper branches to protect the trunk from damage by rodents.