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Do-it-yourself cellar - a step-by-step guide to building and decorating (110 photo ideas). The choice of material for basement insulation in the garage

No, even the most modern, refrigerator can replace a cellar in a country house. After all, only large room will contain dozens of jars prepared for the winter with pickles, compotes, salads, jams, as well as fresh vegetables and fruits.

What is a cellar

A cellar is a special room located below ground level, intended for long-term storage foodstuffs, usually grown on their own personal plot.

Building structure

The cellar is usually located in basement under the house or is a separate building. The second option is preferable, since for normal functioning the cellar must be spacious enough and have good ventilation. Therefore, if the dacha itself has already been built, but the cellar has not yet been built, then place it separately, this will require less financial costs. Also in this case there is a great opportunity to decorate household plot an original building that gives a stylistic orientation to the entire territory.

The cellar consists of two structural parts:

Underground, which is usually divided into several sections for storing vegetables in bulk and equipped with shelves for various containers.
The tomb is the above-ground part of the building. Consists of front door, hatch in lower part, vestibule, roof and walls.

The main dimensions and location on the site

When choosing a place for construction, first of all take into account the level ground water. If they are located too close to the surface, then during the operation of the cellar there will be constant flooding, especially during heavy rains and in spring when snow melts. In addition, during construction, additional efforts will be required for the device. high-quality waterproofing. That's why separate cellar suit on the high place suburban area.

As for the dimensions, the standard cellar is 3 m long, 2.5 meters wide and 2 m high. it will be impossible, which is not very convenient.

If the cellar is planned with sides of 3 m and a height of 2 m, then the pit itself is dug out with dimensions of 2.5x2.5x3.5 m. It is recommended to make the floor no closer than 60 cm from the aquifer, and the ceiling - below the soil freezing line by 20 cm.

Functional purpose of the cellar

The cellar is commonly used to store a variety of food and beverages:

Vegetables (potatoes, carrots, beets).
Dried, frozen and fresh fruits (apples, pears).
Alcoholic and non-alcoholic drinks (homemade beer, wine, kvass, compotes).
Long-term canned preparations (jam, pickles, salads, snacks).

Such storage is possible due to the fact that underground temperature during the year is constant and is about 5-7 degrees Celsius.

Also, the cellar, with a lack of space, is also used as a utility room for storing garden tools.

How to make a semi-buried cellar with your own hands

Building a semi-buried cellar on your own is quite realistic, because most of those people who have summer cottages have minimal building skills. Principles that guide the process:

All work is carried out only in the warm season.
The entrance door is located on the north.
Everything wooden elements carefully treated with an antiseptic.
Be sure to have ventilation and waterproofing.

The best material for this kind of buildings is concrete. Subject to the recommendations described below, the service life of such a cellar will be 50-70 years.

Let us consider in detail the construction of a standard semi-buried cellar 2 m high and 3 m each, designed to store food supplies for a family of 4–5 people.

Building the underground

You will need the following tool:

bayonet shovel;
shovel;
level;
roulette;
pliers;
rule;
hammer;
Angle Grinder.

Required building materials:

crushed stone of the middle fraction (0.15 cubic meters);
river sand (0.1 cubic meters);
fittings (40–50 mm, 50 m);
reinforcing mesh;
cement (200 kg);
OPGS (0.5 cubic meters);
bitumen (0.2 cubic meters);
knitting wire (0.5–0.8 mm, coil 50 m);
unedged board (30–35 mm) for formwork (48 sq. m.);
nails (80 mm, 2 kg);
rolled waterproofing (24 sq. m.).

Construction process step by step:

When digging a pit, leave enough distance for all necessary work for waterproofing the exterior of the building. The walls of the cellar are poured in 1 working day to avoid the appearance of microcracks. In order to save money, the ceiling is made not of concrete, but of wood. To do this, take a bar with a section of 50x50 mm for the frame and an edged board with a thickness of 30–40 mm. A heater is placed inside such a frame.

The hatch is also made of wood and insulated with foam. Metal hatches are also used if the burial room is heated. If they plan to use the cellar quite regularly, then they install stationary ladder from wood. Otherwise, use the usual attachment.

Cellar ventilation and lighting

Arranging ventilation is quite simple. For this, they are installed in the underground part of the cellar 2 aluminum pipes with a diameter of 8–10 mm on different height in opposite corners of the room and bring them outside.

One pipe is also installed, but a system of two will provide more high-quality ventilation premises. To prevent precipitation, debris and small animals from getting inside through ventilation, the outer parts of the pipes are carried out 20–30 cm above the ground and equipped with a mesh and protective caps.

As in the cellar all year round rather high humidity, electrical wiring is placed in special corrugated channels.

How to make a tomb (aerial part)

There are much fewer requirements for the above-ground part of the cellar than for the lower section, therefore, during its construction, they give free rein to their architectural imagination. Exist variety of options- from a very miniature vestibule to a full-fledged building, which simultaneously performs the role of a barn.

The main purpose of the tomb is to protect the hatch leading down from precipitation and reduce negative impact freezing temperatures during the winter months. Therefore, by area above-ground part make the lower section wider by 0.5 m on each side.
Yulia Petrichenko, expert

The walls of the tomb are made of brick or wood, specific choice depends on financial capacity and taste preferences. The roof is mounted from corrugated board, metal tiles or soft roll materials with mandatory insulation mineral wool. In the case of a semi-buried cellar, the so-called deboning of the roof is done, filling it thin layer soil on which ornamental plants are then planted.

Tomb design

The appearance of the burial chambers is strictly individual and depends on the taste preferences of the dacha owner. Often it is combined with summer veranda, gazebo or barbecue area.

Therefore, when looking at such buildings from the outside, it can be quite difficult to determine that behind the walls of a neat house with carved windows, twined with grapes, there are racks with fresh and canned vegetables. Other tombs appearance immediately show their functional purpose, distinguished by deliberately rough masonry, thick oak doors and unusual design roofs.

As you can see, building a cellar with your own hands is not so difficult process as it might seem at first. Do you have your own know-how that can be applied in the construction of the cellar? Share your secrets and photos in the comments.

Many people try to provide themselves with delicious homemade pickles for the winter. Summer residents are faced with the fact that such things require appropriate storage in suitable cool conditions. Especially for this, amateur gardeners use basements or construct special cellars at their dacha. There is a large number of structures that you can buy or make yourself, however, in this case, it is the semi-buried cellar that should be considered.

Such a cellar has a number of advantages.

Features of the construction of a semi-buried cellar

The construction of a semi-buried cellar on your own, with your own hands, includes a number of nuances that you should pay special attention to:

To build a structure, a large recess is not required, it is enough to dig a pit about a meter deep.
As the base of the storage, you can use a brick or concrete screed.
Requires high quality and reliable waterproofing floor in the cellar and walls.
It is necessary to make a high-quality and moisture-proof overlap that will protect the structure from precipitation and floods.
Additionally, when installing the floor of the building, it is necessary reliable ventilation indoor air.
Be sure to install the entrance, which is carried out at ground level, without any recess.
When choosing the direction of entry, the direction of the wind and the location of the extension on the site must be taken into account.

If all these features are taken into account, as well as the device of the semi-buried cellar being made, the person concerned will not have any difficulties in the design and subsequent construction of the structure.

At independent creation such a design, attention should be paid to the depth of groundwater, as it is recommended that the moisture be half a meter below the floor level in the cellar.

In this video you will learn how to make a similar cellar:

Types of semi-buried cellar

To date, amateur gardeners distinguish several main varieties of this design. In each individual case, the building is selected according to the characteristics of the soil and the site, for which a scheme is used that determines the future location of the building with or without a vestibule additional outbuildings. Consider the main types of structures:

Do-it-yourself semi-buried cellar, made of brick with high-quality waterproofing.
Blocked storage, which has the most a simple circuit designs.
A cellar mounted on a slope or slope (it is allowed to use natural ground irregularities).
Separate structures that are used for growing mushrooms (champignons or other vegetation).

You can also use the video to visualize the process. For each individual design on our website there is a corresponding instruction.

We build a blocked cellar

In this case, during construction, the following step-by-step instruction independent work do it yourself:

A pit is dug, the depth of which should not exceed one meter and not reach groundwater.
The next step is to clean the bottom in accordance with the previously prepared scheme.
Crushed stone 10 cm thick is poured, and then a concrete screed is poured.
After the concrete has completely dried, you can start laying brick walls.
Brick walls on both sides must be covered with a plaster mixture.
From cement mortar the floor is poured, which has a thickness of not more than 50 cm.
External insulation is carried out using bituminous mastic, while its layer must be at least 2 mm (applied in two layers).
From boards of 50 mm is made high-quality overlap(the edges of the boards are smeared with bitumen).
Further, a layer of clay and hay is laid, 20 centimeters thick, to insulate the storage.
For better waterproofing, sheets of roofing material are used; additionally, ventilation is created at this stage.

At the final stage of construction, it remains only to strengthen the walls with turf, as well as install the entrance doors.

Important. In this case, it is not so difficult to build a cellar, while it has a number of advantages compared to other structures (savings, erection in any place, as well as convenience for the owner to use).

Do not forget to strictly follow the instructions for creating a cellar

from brick

The design of a semi-buried cellar implies its complete execution of brickwork. This type of storage is the most common. Let us consider in more detail the algorithm of actions for their manufacture:

The pit is pre-dug required sizes, about one meter deep;
The floor is poured with a cement-sand mortar to obtain a high-quality reliable screed.
Walls are laid out from ordinary red burnt bricks (you can use other material, but only in dry places).
The storage floor is also made of 50 mm boards, and in addition, waterproofing is laid. At the same stage, ventilation is equipped, which will provide the necessary air circulation.

After the construction of the structure, a mound of turf is necessarily made, which will compact the structure. At the final stage, the entrance to the repository is made.

It is worth noting that the entrance to the cellar, for any application of the structure, is always made last and is done on general level plot height.

Building a cellar on a slope or slope

For the basement, a natural unevenness is used, where the ground has a bevel. This allows you to significantly save on the purchase of material, as well as on earthmoving, but at the same time the cellar will have a smaller area. The stages of work in such construction are no different from the two previous cases, since any option can be used, but there are a number of features:

On the top of the slope, it is required to dig a drainage ditch at a distance of 3 or 5 meters.
The floor of such a basement must be made of clay and sand so that it does not let moisture in at all.
The ceiling of the cellar can be made from any available material, including thin logs.
In order to keep cool inside the structure, an embankment of soil 30 centimeters thick is made.
The door structure should be light, but at the same time sufficiently insulated, and also have a vestibule.

It is worth noting that this is the least expensive option for making a cellar for a summer residence, however, for its use, you will need to select the appropriate slope or bevel (natural uneven ground).

Benefits of a semi-buried cellar

Such designs have a number of advantages in comparison with other cellars for storing pickles and other vegetables. Let's take a closer look at the positives:

Rarely enough, the question arises of how to make such a structure yourself, since everything is extremely simple and clear.
There is no need to greatly deepen the structure and at the same time make a steep descent into the room.
A slight dependence of the design on the location and stay on the groundwater site;
Significant savings in the construction of such a cellar with a semi-buried construction scheme.
All work can be done independently, without involving specialists.

It is worth noting that, despite big number advantages of such storages, there is also significant disadvantage, namely, a sufficiently large temperature fluctuation.

Do not forget to prepare all the tools

How to choose the right place to build a semi-buried storage

When choosing a place where the building will be located, in without fail you should pay attention to some points:

The presence and saturation of groundwater in the area, as well as their accumulation in the spring at the time of floods.
The presence on the territory of the allotment of additional natural irregularities, which will save on construction.
The indentation of the floor from underground groundwater must be at least 50 cm.
The thickness of the wall in the semi-underground cellar should correspond to the climatic conditions in the region.
The presence of wind on the site, as well as the possibility of providing free access to the structure in any weather.
Protected from direct sunlight (a place is selected where there is the least amount of sun, especially in summer).

Considering all these points, it will be possible to choose the most appropriate place on his site to build a structure to store pickles and food.

Do-it-yourself construction of a semi-underground storage

To build such a structure on your own is quite simple, the main thing is to prepare for this task accordingly. Consider the points that you should pay attention to when working independently:

Work is recommended to be carried out in warm, non-rainy weather in order to secure the quality of the structure.
It is not recommended to save on the quality of the material, since the safety of vegetables and preparations directly depends on it.
During construction, all the tools that will be needed for work are also prepared in advance.
The design is being built in such a way that coolness and sufficient humidity are always inside.
The construction of the structure must take into account the climatic conditions of the region, otherwise there will be a strong temperature difference.
The choice of the facility to be constructed must correspond to the financial capabilities of the person interested in the construction.

Important. If a cellar is being built on a site where an increased accumulation of groundwater prevails, then it is recommended that every effort be made to strengthen the structure so that it does not lead during floods.

The real owner knows how to grow a rich harvest in the country, which pleases the household and guests. However, in winter period there may be difficulties with the preservation of fruits. Listen to the advice from the article, and you will have fresh fruits and vegetables on your table all year round. By choosing right place for building a cellar with your own hands, and observing technological process, you will save yourself from troubles during operation. In appearance simple design the cellar has its own secrets of construction, which must be taken into account, especially if your site has a sufficiently high level of groundwater.

We measure the level of groundwater

First of all, it is necessary to find out the level of occurrence of groundwater, their temperature, the content of dissolved salts in the water and the frequency of rise. Hydrogeological studies can be carried out on their own, without involving expensive specialists.

Ground drilling to determine the water level

In the spring, when the groundwater level reaches its peak, reconnaissance is done with a drill. The drill must be more than 2000 mm long. It is believed that this is the standard depth for laying the cellar. If at this depth the excavated soil is dry, we can say that you are very lucky. Make several such holes in the place where you intend to build a cellar, and wait a day. If groundwater is close, then they will certainly appear in the drilled hole.

If water appeared in the hole, it is necessary to measure the height of the water column. To do this, we take any suitable rod, lower it into the hole and measure the distance from the end of the rod to the wet line with a tape measure. The level of the water column can change during the day, so measurements must be taken over several days. We take the highest mark as a basis.

Ground water level

You need to make sure that this is the level of groundwater, and not perched. Verkhovodka can be located at a level of 5 m underground, at this depth soils can be located through which thawed or rain water. It is necessary to measure the distance to water in nearby wells. If the distance to the water in the well is greater than in the drilling pit, then this is a perch. Ring drainage will help here. But if it is an aquifer, then everything is much more complicated.

Geodetic rules will help to more accurately determine the situation with groundwater on the site:

perched water is a frequent companion of clay or loamy soils;
excess moisture occurs when lingering rains and with an increase in the water level in lakes and rivers;
groundwater has well-defined boundaries, although water levels may vary;
groundwater is always constant, and perched water is insidious and unpredictable.

Ring drainage device

With a close occurrence of soil water, carrying out earthworks is complicated by the fact that the soil becomes heavy and viscous. The first step is to lower the height of the groundwater below the bottom of the pit to at least half a meter.

Cellar drainage device

Advice. The drainage system will divert a huge part of the water and prevent it from quickly seeping into the cellar. The structure will be protected by waterproofing the cellar.

Internal drainage device

If you have a small landscaped area and you don’t want to destroy everything to build a cellar, then an internal drainage device is a way out of such a difficult situation. This method is suitable for a separate cellar, since internal system collects water that has already penetrated into the basement.

The device of the cellar-caisson

This method justifies itself with a close occurrence of groundwater. The only downside is high price caisson. It can be a stainless steel or plastic box. The metal box looks like a trough with sides. Fasteners are provided on the sides, for which the caisson can be removed or lowered.

Advice. When erecting walls and floors, decide in advance where they will be placed ventilation pipes and electrical wiring, so that later you do not have to drill additional holes in the walls.

The device of a monolithic concrete cellar

You can arrange a waterproof cellar made of concrete, both semi-buried and completely buried in the ground, as follows.

When the water level drops, we dig a foundation pit for the cellar. If the depth of the pit is more than two meters, then we will definitely mount the formwork in order to avoid unforeseen collapses of the soil.

You can build a concrete hydraulic lock in a slightly different way:

a pit is dug, the bottom is leveled and a pillow is made of sand and gravel with obligatory tamping;
formwork is made and walls 10 cm thick and the floor are cast from concrete;

concrete formwork

after 14 days, the entire surface of the concrete is thoroughly smeared with hot bitumen and waterproofing is glued in two layers: along and across;
the formwork is erected again, reinforced and a solution 8 cm thick is poured.

Advice. Add to concrete mortar special hydrophobic additives that will give the composition water-repellent properties.

Semi-buried cellar

If the groundwater level is very high, and there is little money for building a cellar with your own hands, then it is better to build a semi-buried cellar.

Semi-buried cellar at their summer cottage

Do-it-yourself floor slab

You can buy a factory floor slab, or you can make it yourself. The slab will rest on the walls of the cellar.

We make wooden formwork. We place an I-beam and lay asbestos-cement sheets. We pour a layer of crushed stone on top of them and support a reinforcing mesh of wire with a diameter of 10 mm on an I-beam and walls. We tie the wire so that we get cells measuring 10 x 10 cm. We fill it with concrete and, after complete hardening, we waterproof it.

Creating a concrete floor over the cellar

Ventilation device

High-quality ventilation will prevent the occurrence of mold, rotting of root crops and ensure optimal humidity in the cellar. Otherwise, only a souvenir photo will remain from the harvest.

You will need two plastic or galvanized pipes with a diameter of 15 cm. One pipe will provide air flow, and the second - exhaust. Extraction occurs naturally with the difference in air temperature between the cellar and the street. Pipes are located in different angles cellars.

Cellar ventilation

The exhaust pipe is installed under the ceiling of the cellar, the upper end is located 50 cm above the roof level. supply pipe mounted 10 - 15 cm above the floor level, the upper end is placed 30 cm above the ground level. Valves are installed in the pipes that regulate the air flow and nets that prevent rodents from entering the room from the street.

For large cellars, the pipe cross-section is calculated by the formula, it is possible that forced ventilation will even be needed.

Additional waterproofing

For internal waterproofing surfaces of the walls and floor of the cellar, special penetrating compounds are used, they are best applied to slightly damp concrete. Penetrating waterproofing contains substances that enter into chemical reaction with water and multiply by concrete base like crystals. These "growths" seal capillaries, pores and microscopic damage, protecting the concrete from water up to half a meter deep. They are not afraid of any mechanical influences. Chips and scratches do not affect the tightness of surfaces treated with such penetrating compounds.

Cellar walls after application of waterproofing liquid rubber

Lighting

The electrical wiring in the cellar is carried out externally. Wires must be placed in cable channels. Experts recommend using double-insulated copper wiring for the cellar. The switch is placed in a dry place, usually at the entrance. Sockets in the cellar can not be installed categorically. The luminaire must have a moisture-proof cover with a degree of protection against moisture of at least IP44. If the basement is damp, then the lighting should be safe. Install a 220/12 Volt step-down transformer and a 10 mA RCD. With a low ceiling, it is more expedient to place the ceiling on the cellar wall.

Cellar construction: video

Cellar in the country: photo

A rare estate does without a cellar. When choosing a storage design crucial has a groundwater level (GWL) on the land plot. With a sufficiently high GWL, when in autumn or spring the water rises above 2.5 m from the surface of the earth, the construction of an underground storage is not practical, in this case it is preferable to build a semi-buried ground burial.

Unlike a buried one, a semi-buried cellar is only partially below the surface of the earth, its main part is on the surface, which makes it possible to build a full-fledged storage at a high level of groundwater (for example, at a groundwater level of 1.5 m, it is possible to go deep only 1 m).

With partial deepening, the volume of excavation work is reduced when digging a pit and the waterproofing device is simplified, which is undeniable dignity when building a semi-buried cellar with your own hands. In addition, in addition to the function of storing vegetables, root crops, pickles and other products and homemade preparations, a semi-buried (aka semi-underground) cellar can also become a garden decoration.

Construction features:

for construction, it is enough to dig a shallow pit up to 1 meter deep. In most cases, a pit depth of 70 - 80 cm is sufficient. The maximum depth of the structure is determined from the fact that groundwater should not be closer than 50 cm to the floor level;
the base is made of brick or concrete, less often slag concrete is used (it is recommended to use it only when construction is carried out in a dry place). Then raise the walls up required level- as a rule, not higher than 200-220 centimeters;
needed good waterproofing bottom and walls of the cellar. For waterproofing, roofing material, bitumen, clay and other coating materials are used, suit clay castle;
overlap of the structure is required - it is often made from slab. The overlap is covered with a layer of crumpled clay, then covered with two layers of roofing material. A layer of soil is poured on top, raised during the construction of the pit, or imported. When backfilling with soil, the slopes are made at an angle of 45 degrees. Minimum Thickness backfill 70 cm. So that the rains do not erode the soil, the structure is covered with turf from above;
ventilation must be arranged in the ceiling;
semi-buried storage must be equipped with a separate entrance from ground level. The door is made in the wall, and not in the ceiling, as in fully recessed structures. The entrance is equipped with a vestibule with a roof, a door and a staircase leading directly to the cellar door. The second door is insulated;
when choosing the location of the entrance to the cellar, the location of the structure on the site and the direction of the wind are taken into account. When the entrance is located on the leeward side, thermal insulation improves, but it will be difficult to get inside the structure in winter due to snow. Therefore, it is advisable to make the entrance to the cellar from a convenient side, but at the same time it is necessary to better insulate the doors (for example, upholster them with felt and close up the cracks).

How to build a semi-buried brick cellar

A brick cellar is the most common type of semi-buried cellar. Its base is located at a depth of 0.7-1 m from the surface of the earth, so its construction is also possible in wet places. For this:

dig a pit of the required size. If at the same time aquifers are found, then, as they are discovered, they are plugged (closed) to a depth of 0.5 m with layers of oily clay 0.1 m thick;
the walls of such a semi-buried storage are laid out from ordinary red burnt bricks;
construction of cinder block / block / stuffed in adjustable formwork walls allow only in dry places. Such walls must be plastered on both sides with cement mortar to make them water resistant;
brick floor semi-underground cellar do not fulfill them edged boards 40-50 mm thick or slab. Clay grease is made on top or a layer of roofing felt (roofing material) is laid;
the type of waterproofing is chosen depending on the location of the self-built semi-buried brick cellar. It could be coating waterproofing, for example, with hot bitumen, or pasting, with or without a clay lock.

We build a blocked cellar

Do-it-yourself construction of a blocked cellar has several advantages:

economic - reducing construction costs by 20-25% and saving building materials due to the presence of common enclosing structures (roofs, walls, etc.);
territorial - rational use land plot due to the location of the blocked cellar on the border of 2 adjacent sections;
ease of use by one family - storage of root crops and potatoes is possible in separate cells, which eliminates the possibility of formation bad smell that appears when they are stored together.

Construction sequence:

dig a pit;
the bottom of the pit is cleaned and planned;
at the bottom of the pit for a blocked cellar, a layer of crushed stone (or brick battle) is poured with a thickness of 8-10 cm - at the rate of 0.1 m 3 per 1 m 2 of the base. Then the crushed stone is rammed and poured with hot bitumen;
from dense concrete pour the base of the cellar. Concrete composition - cement, sand, crushed stone (gravel) at the rate of 1:2:4;

after 1 week after pouring the base, they begin to build cellar walls from brick;
brick walls on both sides are covered with cement-sand plaster with a layer of 10-20 mm;
simultaneously with the plastering of the walls from the same cement-sand mortar fill the floor with a thickness of 40-50 mm, smoothing it with a trowel;
external waterproofing of walls is performed bituminous mastic on a bituminous primer previously applied with a layer of 0.1 mm or use a melt of hot bitumen applied in 2 layers 2 mm thick at the rate of 2 kg / m 2;
if necessary, arrange a clay castle (see figure);
the overlap of the blocked cellar is made of boards 50 mm thick or a thick hewn slab. In places where boards rest on brickwork, their ends are coated with bitumen to increase the service life;
to insulate the floor, a layer of clay straw 20 cm thick is laid, a layer of earth 50 cm thick is laid on top. The earth is sown with grass;
the slopes of the walls of the blocked storage are strengthened with turf.

Building a cellar on a slope or slope

When building a cellar on a slope or slope with your own hands, the land is used rationally. At the same time, the volume of excavation is small, due to which the cost of labor and materials is reduced, and as a result, the cost of construction is reduced. The cellar on the slope is well protected from ground and melt water, as well as dampness.

Features of building a storage facility on a slope:

from above, at a distance of 3-5 meters, an upland drainage ditch is arranged. The depth of the ditch should be at least 70-80 cm. The location of the ditch is not across the slope (slope), but obliquely (at an angle), since in this case, even in the strongest downpours, the ditch will not break through, and the cellar will not be flooded with water;
the floor of the cellar is made of adobe. To do this, clay is mixed with coarse sand or fine (fraction 5-10 mm) crushed stone (ratio 1: 1-2). The resulting and laid mixture of clay and fillers must be carefully compacted;
to cover the cellar on the slope, thin logs are suitable - knurler. Clay lubricant insulation on top (crumpled clay with straw cut);
on top of the overlap, soil is bunded, with a layer thickness of 30 cm;
the door of a cellar built on a slope or slope is made small and insulated. Behind the door is a vestibule.

. Cellar for growing mushrooms

To grow champignons, you need a not too damp cellar, protected from ingress of riding and ground water.

for the construction of a cellar for champignons, elevated dry places are chosen;
they dig a pit with a pigeon 60 cm. The walls of the pit are made bevelled;
cellar for champignons frame structure. The skeleton of the structure is sanded log-racks with a diameter of 14-18 cm, deepened by the lower end into the ground by 0.7-0.8 m;
the walls of the cellar are sheathed with slabs to protect the earth from shedding;
the roof is made of clay straw on a continuous plank crate of edged boards. Such a roof simultaneously performs two functions: protection of the cellar from precipitation and insulation;
in order to prepare clay straw from straight wheat or rye straw (that is, whole, and not from a combine), it is necessary to tie small sheaves with a diameter of 7-8 cm and thresh them for 2-3 days in liquid clay. After that, they are pulled out and stacked in a stack. To remove excess moisture, the stack is covered with a wooden shield from above and loaded. The sheaves prepared in this way, before they dry completely (they should not lose their stickiness), are laid on the roof, making a small overlap on the walls;
on top of the clay straw, the roof is covered with a layer of dry earth. The thickness of the earth layer is 40 cm at the ridge, 80-100 cm at the base;
the floor in the cellar for champignons is made of adobe;
the optimum temperature in the cellar is plus 10-14 ° C. The temperature should be stable, since when it drops to +3 ° C, the growth of champignons stops, while they remain capable of continuing further growth if favorable conditions arise;
good air exchange should be ensured in the cellar, for which supply and exhaust ventilation is arranged;
indoor air humidity is extremely important for growing champignons, since when high humidity and poor ventilation, moldy fungi begin to spread. Optimal Level humidity is 70-90%, for this the floor and walls of the cellar for growing mushrooms must be watered.

Jan 27, 2018 Olga

Having decided to build a cellar, a country resident faces many difficulties. It is necessary to take into account the level of groundwater, to understand: to build a fully buried or semi-buried structure, what to build from and what technology to use. Added to all this is the desire to reduce costs without sacrificing quality. Therefore, dozens of designs of cellars and vegetable stores are collected on our portal. Moreover, each author tries to make his own improvements to well-established projects, as well as to minimize efforts during the construction of the cellar.

Interesting design of the cellar, implemented e1g1o from materials that he practically got for nothing.

e1g1o FORUMHOUSE User

How to build a semi-buried cellar with your own hands.
How to insulate the cellar.

Do-it-yourself construction of a semi-buried cellar

The user's site has a large slope, with all the pluses and minuses that follow from this. Before we describe the stages of construction, let us present the voting data on the question of whether the cellar wall, made of double slate, will withstand the pressure of the soil.

e1g1o

At first, I also strongly doubted the advisability of using slate. And the wife was afraid that the walls, unable to withstand the mass of soil, would push through. But, after reading the topics of portal users who built similar designs, this, for example, is a vegetable pit made of slate, I perked up and started building.

The base for the cellar is a structure welded from a steel angle, which is then sheathed with slate and buried.

At first, the user thought to make a 45-degree staircase with a top hatch, but because the cellar will be part of the foundation under frame garage, the entry idea was then replayed.

The construction of the cellar began with the digging of a hole 3000x3000x2000 mm with an excavator.

With the help of technology, they also planned a "terrace" for the future house.

The slope of the site is about 10-12 degrees. If you remove the fertile layer, there is sand. GWL at around 5-7 meters, which simplifies the construction of a cellar that will not be flooded with groundwater.

At the bottom of the dug pit, the “foundation” was poured with concrete “self-mixing” - concrete slab 100 mm thick.

Sand e1g1o took it right on site. Proportions of the mixture: 4 buckets of sand, 1 bucket of M500 cement, water "to taste".

For lining the cellar, we bought 50 pieces of used slate at a price of 10-20 rubles. for 1 sheet. Part of the sheets (on top) were cut in half, whole sheets were screwed from below.

The slate was mounted in two layers, screwing it to the corner with self-tapping screws.

The floor of the cellar was made of concrete;

The level of the floor was brought out using a jack from a truck and placing the structure on brick posts.

Then metal carcass completely sheathed with slate, working with a ladder.

The next stage is wrapping the "body" of the cellar with a special profiled membrane, which is designed to protect the waterproofing layer of the foundation, organize the blind area and replace the "footing".

The third step is the installation of a cellar in a dug hole by a truck crane.

After installation, it turned out that the cellar is a bit high.

After thinking, the user decided to cut off part of the stairs and make a low doorway with tambour. Then the cellar was partially buried with an excavator.

Graveyard from the inside.

So that the soil would not crumble from the entrance, and also to make supports for the future garage, two pits were drilled on the sides of the “tambour”, pipes 13 cm in diameter were inserted into them, they were nailed down with a sledgehammer and the jibs were welded in.

Also, the cellar was partially insulated with extruded polystyrene foam 5 cm thick, glued with foam.

The top floor of the cellar (roof) was concreted.