Edged board finish. How to sheathe a house with an overlap board

Protection of log walls from the outside from destruction by rain, sunlight, wind and frost is done in various ways. The most environmentally friendly is the cladding of the facade of the house with wood. The arrangement of boards overlap creates a barrier to air flow. Water flows down the protruding surface without getting inside the cladding and wall. Boarding is expensive. Its advantages are in the naturalness of the material, a comfortable environment inside the house, and the unique beauty of natural material.

Sheathing of the house to protect the load-bearing wall

It was necessary to sheathe a wooden cottage. It was Vadik's turn to help me. We worked with him under his questions and my stories. My friend is not just a scientist, but a curious mathematician who wants to learn how to do everything with his own hands. We were preparing a wooden house from the outside for finishing, and I told where the sheathing of the walls with an overlap board came from.

When developing new lands, first America, then Australia, ships often crashed on reefs near unfamiliar shores. Settlers trimmed the outside and inside of their houses with wooden sheathing from the sides. They used selections at opposite corners of the board and stacked them in a herringbone pattern. The edge protruded outward above the bottom bar. The water did not run down the wall all the way to the plinth, but dripped down from each plank. Inside, the cladding and wall remained dry.

Depending on the climate of the area inhabited by the settlers, the sheathing on the outside of the walls with an overlap of a shipboard protected the housing from various natural factors:

• strong wind;
• scorching sun;
• frost;
• rains;
• heat.

Over time, board and timber trim became popular. People appreciated not only the practicality, but also the beauty of the wooden facade. It is easier and cheaper to change the most expensive cladding on the outside than to restore the walls.

Types of wood used for lap sheathing

While we were cleaning the surface of the walls from dirt, I told a friend which types of wood are best suited for cladding outside.

1. According to its characteristics, the larch finish is the leader. Wood is resistant to moisture. The degree of warping is lower than other breeds. Easy to handle and holds nails.
2. Spruce has a natural impregnation with resin and characteristics are slightly lower than larch. Numerous knots give a peculiar decorative look. Over time, cracks appear around them. Therefore, finishing the house, outside with a spruce board is rare.
3. Pine warps strongly and quickly becomes unusable. Not applicable for exterior cladding.
4. Hardwood looks beautiful and is durable. It is difficult to process. May break when hammering nails. The disadvantages include the high cost of the material.

Finishing the house outside can be done with a board with varying degrees of processing:

• the slab slab is the cut edge of a log with an oval surface;
• removed top and unprocessed edges at both sides of the plank;
• unedged board has rounded raw ends on one side;
• on the edged with a wedge, the corner and part of the butt remain unprocessed;
• the clean-edged board is fully processed and has the same dimensions along the entire length;
• tongue-and-groove with grooves of various shapes cut along the entire length.

Finishing with an overlap board is done with all types of the listed materials. Untreated are laid with oval surfaces outward and overlapped with the upper ones. Butt-to-length, only processed planks are connected. The rest with an overlap of 150 mm.

To give the walls a decorative look in ethnic and retro style, veneer can be applied over the board. Then the house looks aged and fragile. Over time, thin strips of wood warp and fluff like frills.

Facade preparation and waterproofing

We spent a few days preparing at home. Finishing the outside with a board requires protecting the walls from dampness. The logs were impregnated with a flame retardant, an antistatic agent and three layers of a water repellent. Applied with brushes and rubbed in well. All this slightly impairs the vapor permeability of the tree. But it protects the walls from fungus and makes them more resistant to moisture and even fire.

I checked the basement waterproofing at the same time. On the foundation stone, moisture from the soil rises to the walls and above. Sheets of roofing material lay intact, protruding several millimeters beyond the plane of the wall. The blind area around the house was made after, when the walls and basement were completed.

House cladding with insulation

Sheathing can be attached directly to the logs with nails 80 - 100 mm long. For insulation, a crate is made of wooden beams. Insulation is laid between the vertical posts, closed with waterproofing. To the beam protruding above the mineral wool, a board trim is mounted.

For waterproofing, a film is selected. Then holes are made in it near the racks for ventilation. You can use a special fabric that allows air to pass through and repels water.

Facade decoration in our performance

The walls of the house were warm enough. Overlapping board decoration created additional thermal insulation. Therefore, Vadik and I, after treating the walls from the outside with all protective compounds, waited until they were completely dry. Then they did the following.

1. Marking of vertical lines along the entire perimeter;
2. Wooden planks were screwed on them with self-tapping screws.
3. They nailed the low tide on top of the basement.
4. Above it, a beam was placed with sides equal to the thickness of the sheathing board. It will ensure a uniform slope of the skin slats.
5. Nails were hammered into the boards from the bottom and top with vertical posts. 2 cm receded from the side end.

We started from the bottom row and from the corner began to move to the right and up. Having completed the sheathing, protective additional elements were installed at the corners of the house. Casing was placed on window and door openings during the construction of the walls. We just have to adjust the size of the board so that it fits snugly against the frame.

Having completed the finishing, we went around the entire perimeter of the house, and sealed all the cracks and joints with sealant. I chose in the store to match the color of the tree.

We took up the brushes again. They covered the overlapping boards on the wall with an antiseptic. Then, for decoration, with a glazing composition. He gave the wood a golden chocolate hue and highlighted the natural grain of the wood.

Overlapped boards can be painted, varnished, waxed. This gives the finish a unique look. It all depends on your taste and the board used for sheathing.

Overlapping siding

A quick and budgetary way to imitate overlapping boarding, mount plastic and metal wood siding. You can make a crate from a metal profile and attach acrylic or vinyl panels to it. It is possible to distinguish a "fake" only at close range.

Ventilated facades last up to 20 years. Virtually no maintenance required. But this is not a tree with its warmth and originality.

Wedge boards, nailed horizontally and overlapping when sheathing a house, is called a clapboard in North America. This version of the exterior decoration of the house is very interesting - the walls of the building look both noble and modern. The same notorious "vinyl" often imitates just this type of sheathing. And the protection of the walls in this case is very reliable - there is practically no chance for water to get into the cavity of the wall. However, all this is possible under one important condition - if the work is done technically competently.

Recently, many people prefer polyvinyl chloride to wood. In North America, panels made of this plastic are almost three times cheaper than wooden boards, it is easier to work with "vinyl" and it does not require much maintenance. However, customers, middle-class people, still prefer natural wood to artificial material. We have been dealing with boards for many years and, believe me, we know a lot about this, at first glance, simple work. As in any business, we also have a whole arsenal of tricks, a certain one that allows you to quickly and efficiently “dress” the house.

We start sheathing after fixing heat-insulating mats. First of all, install the corners. For internal corners, we use bars with a section of 25x50 mm or 30x30 mm [Fig. 1) - with smaller sections it is difficult to achieve the desired sealing of the joints.

External corners We do things differently depending on the circumstances. The simplest way is to fill boards with a section of 25x100 mm along the edges of adjacent surfaces (Fig. 2a). In this case, we install the sheathing end-to-end with the side faces of the corner elements, which allows you not to suffer with the joints of the clapboard boards “on the mustache”.

If the customer wants the corners to look more solid, we act in a slightly different way (Fig. 26). First, we nail the slats with a section of 25x75 mm, and then, after finishing the sheathing, we close the joints with wide (25x150 mm) boards. In addition to external massiveness, such corners provide better waterproofing. Yes, and possible "blunders" in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe joints will be closed. True, the latter method also has disadvantages - secluded places are formed in the corners, which various insects love to settle in. But here, as they say, the customer is always right, and our task is to warn about possible consequences in time.

In order to minimize the possible warping of the boards, we carefully putty their ends in all cases, since it is the fibers that are the capillaries through which the wood absorbs moisture. By lenght corner boards we cut only after installing drain aprons.

The roof over the side walls usually has an overhang (Fig. 3a). In this case, we nail the top board of the sheathing end-to-end with the soffit, and then additionally close the corner with a decorative strip.

With end walls, sometimes you have to do things differently (Fig. 36). The pediment often does not have an overhang, so here we do about the same as in the case of "solid" corners. We nail a rail with a section of 25x75 mm along the top of the end wall, install the top row of sheathing end-to-end with it, and additionally close the seam with a wide (25x150 mm section) board.

Most often we have to deal with wide (130 mm) boards (Fig. 4). Approximately 100 mm of surface remains open when sheathing, since the clapboard is overlapped. Why about? Yes, because this type of skin is just good because you can quite flexibly vary the amount of overlap.

For example, we always try to calculate the rows so that the lower edge of the row of sheathing located above the window is at the level of the upper cut of the opening. Similarly, under the window, the board should pass continuously and without any cutouts. Note that wall cladding is greatly simplified and looks better if all windows are at the same height.

When cladding walls with a clapboard - a homemade template. It can be made from a fairly long rail with a section of 25x75 mm. Having installed the blank on the drain apron, we mark on it the upper and lower sections of windows and doors, and then, having calculated the number of rows, we transfer the marking from the template to the wall (Fig. 5). At the same time, you need to mark the upper edges of the clapboard, since the lower ones will be covered with the already nailed boards of the bottom row.

The calculation of the rows consists in dividing the distance between the extreme (upper and lower) points of the sheathed surface into equal intervals (from 100 to 115 mm). In some cases, when the installation pitch of the boards cannot be adapted to the marks of windows and doors, we act according to the circumstances, for example, we make appropriate cutouts in the boards.

We usually work with three of us: one saws, two nail the sheathing. First, we mount the molding board and close it with an aluminum apron, which we mount on the wall with an overlap of about 4 ... 5 cm. Then we cut blanks for sheathing the interwindow gaps.

On top of the apron we pin a bar with a section of 30x30 mm to give all the boards a single slope. This, of course, is for boards with a width of 130 mm. For a narrower clapboard, the thickness of the lining may be different. If a row of sheathing needs to be made up of some blanks, we put pieces of roofing felt or roofing felt under each joint to prevent moisture from penetrating through the seam into the cavity of the stone. We seal the windows around the perimeter with silicone sealant, and outside, around the openings, we make improvised frames from roofing.

And a few more tips for those who decide to sheathe the house with wedge-shaped boards.

1 If one side is planed and the other not, it is advisable to install the clapboard with the rough side facing out. In this case, both the primer and the paint adhere to the surface better.
2 Sheathing boards should not be nailed only at the top or bottom. In the first case, the board can split, and in the second case, the clapboard will expand uncontrollably when moisture is absorbed.
3. We tried different types of wood: cedar, mahogany, pine and spruce. Best of all, of course, behaves cedar. It is difficult to drive a nail in mahogany without splitting the board, although in all other respects mahogany is excellent - it does not warp, does not shrink and holds the finish perfectly. We prefer not to work with pine, because this wood is prone to splitting, warping, and shrinkage. We rarely use spruce, but in general it is quite suitable for exterior cladding.
4. It is better not to save on nails. Even galvanized nails, in our opinion, are not very good for sheathing. When driving from the surface of the cap, the fragile coating is torn off and the nail begins to rust, like a regular black one. The most reliable nails are made of stainless steel. They are, of course, much more expensive than galvanized ones, but worth it.

Wood is often used to decorate the facades of private houses. The decorative facade board is in no way inferior to the timber coating, but, at the same time, it is lighter and more affordable. It is made from various breeds, known for its qualities of strength and durability.

Types and description

Facade wooden board (planken or keruing) is a type of facing material that is made from natural wood by cutting and processing it. It is classified according to the breeds from which it is made.

There are such types:

The production of natural wood panels is almost identical. The tree trunk is cleaned of bark and branches, after which it is cut with a special saw into certain segments. These planks go through several treatments that reduce the distance between the fibers, thereby increasing the density of the wood. After that, to give the material a certain color or structure, it is covered with paint, varnishes, tinted (to obtain a tinted panel).

In addition to natural breeds, artificial materials are also used. As examples, we propose to consider facade boards made of wood-polymer composite (WPC), PVC (lining) and fiber cement. In both cases, sawdust is mixed with certain additives. In WPC, these are polymers that resist the spread of decay processes and increase the strength of the material. In the second, it is a simple adhesive that provides a flat, smooth surface, low weight and resistance to moisture. It should be noted that PVC is more fragile than WPC, so it is used mainly for interior work.

Ventilated fiber cement board (Cedral and Dekenink Twinson) outwardly completely repeat the surface of natural cedar, but are made from special siding. It features internal ventilation grooves and hidden fasteners. This artificial resin panel is very light in weight, yet highly flexible and strong.

Separately, it is necessary to highlight panels made of thermowood. Thermal beech, thermal oak, and other similar coatings do not change their dimensions under the influence of temperature. This is very important if there are no plans to change the facade in the next 10 years. Due to the fact that in the manufacture of thermowood undergoes a series of additional treatments at high temperatures, its fibers are compressed. Facing thermal board for walls is not supplemented with any artificial additives, therefore it is completely natural.

In addition to the material from which the panel is made, it is also classified according to the shape of the section.

There are such options:

If we classify coatings according to the degree of processing, then there is a facade primed board, clean (raw), painted. The soil increases the stability of the wood. Specialists also use mixtures that prevent wood from igniting or the spread of fire. Raw board does not have such properties, but costs an order of magnitude less.

Installation

Installation can be carried out both on the frame and on the wall of the building. The latter option is most preferable for buildings made of wood, if you want to strengthen its walls or plinth. Consider how a radial heat-treated facade board is installed on a house:

Video: Mounting the front board on planfix fasteners

Every 5 years it is necessary to re-treat the facade with antibacterial and other protective compounds.

Price overview

You can buy a facade board at the manufacturer's warehouse, as well as in branded dealer stores, its price depends on the material and size. Sale is made in all cities of the Russian Federation and the CIS countries.

Consider how much a Finnish UTV front board costs:

This panel is delivered without additional sanding, so the distinctive feature of this company is the rough surface of the wood. The main advantage of the coating is its high resistance to open fire and temperature extremes.

Today, natural materials are becoming popular again, not only for construction, but also for house cladding. One of these materials is wood, which is not only environmentally friendly, but also gives the structure an unusually attractive appearance. Sheathing at home can be done using different techniques, but the edged board, overlapped, looks best. This option is usually used when a low building, a country house in country style, is being finished. After sheathing, the board can be varnished, painted, impregnated with special oils in order to maintain its original appearance.

The process itself, how to sheathe a house with a do-it-yourself edged board, is not so complicated, but it is necessary to strictly observe all the conditions and stages, use high-quality boards, special additional elements in the form of corners. For work, a board of two types and corner elements are used. The inner one acts as a frame, the corners are mounted for the inner and outer parts of the facade. The outer board will be front.

Installation of the inner board

Covering the house with a board is carried out according to pre-compiled marks, a frame is required for fastening the outer board. During operation, it is recommended to use an ordinary hammer; a special nail gun is not used. It is this feature that makes the work of cladding a house with wood so long, requiring patience.

If self-tapping screws are used to fasten the inner board, then you can purchase a screwdriver. This will speed up the work, make it better, but the inner row will still have to be fixed with nails, they should have a length of 80 mm. Before you start fixing the board, you must first treat it with an antiseptic and dry it. After that, each element is cut to obtain the required length. The front side of the board is placed outward, the bend should be directed upwards.

Installation of the outer board

After all the inner boards are installed, it is necessary to proceed with the fasteners of the outer ones. How to do it right?

Installation is carried out in an overlap, while each previous one should be laid on an adjacent board with an approach of 250 mm.

An overlap is pre-marked on each board so that the work goes quickly and efficiently. When drying, the material may be slightly deformed. Therefore, at the time of purchase, it is best to use well-dried wood.

Tools for work:

• screwdriver;
• jigsaw;
• a hammer;
• ruler and building level.

During the exterior cladding of the house, it is necessary to use a building level so that the surface of the facade finish is smooth and beautiful.

There are many options for fastening an external edged board:

1. In rustic, with the lower end parts protruding at an angle, the groove is made at the bottom.
2. With a bevel in the groove. A complex profile is used, the outer skin is beautiful and stylish, the thickness of the board is significant.
3. In semi-rustic. The surface of the wall is smooth with small triangular grooves, the board is cut at an angle, the groove connection is not used, the overlap is angular.
4. With a slope in a quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth, a complex profile is used for connection
5. Straight quarter. The surface of the facade is smooth and beautiful, the board is laid firmly and tightly, moisture does not get any opportunity to flow under the skin. Grooves for fasteners are cut at a right angle, the connection is one of the most reliable and simple.
6. Into the tongue. To lay the board, a tongue and groove connection is used, it is important to cut the grooves using a template. Otherwise, a reliable connection will not work. The facade has a smooth and beautiful surface, moisture does not flow into the wall, drafts will not bother you, as well as heat loss.
7. Glue mounting. The board is glued, there is no overlap.

When sheathing a house with a wooden board, experts advise following certain rules that will ensure a beautiful and durable finish:

1. For work, it is best to take a board that is planed on one side and not on the other. The rough side of the material is mounted outward. Then the primer, and then the paint, will hold much better and longer, and the appearance of the house will turn out to be more attractive.
2. Boards do not need to be nailed only at the bottom and top, as the material will easily split and absorb moisture. It is necessary to use the fastening option staggered, when the boards are fixed on the surface of the facade with a step of 30-45 cm, i.e. in a checkerboard pattern.
3. For cladding the house, you can use wood of various species. It can be cedar, pine, spruce, mahogany. Based on their experience, it is best to use cedar boards. They are not only durable, but also easy to process and have a beautiful appearance. Mahogany is difficult to process, it is difficult to drive a nail into the surface, although it does not warp over time. Pine has many useful properties, but for external use it is not very good, as it easily warps and splits. Spruce is rarely used for outdoor facade work, although its performance is much better than that of pine. Spruce boards are replete with knots, and this does not affect the quality in the best way.
4. Sheathing a house is best done with ordinary steel nails, not galvanized ones. The problem is that the galvanized layer is easily peeled off during installation, and under the influence of moisture, the nails quickly rust. Stainless steel is much more expensive, but the quality of the finish is higher.