Ventilation in the cellar schemes for the proper arrangement of the ventilation system in the utility rooms. Cellar ventilation: features of the arrangement, schemes, equipment used The height of the supply and exhaust pipes in the basement

A cellar, deprived of normal air circulation, is subject to the accumulation of moisture, the appearance of fungus on the walls, and spoilage of products. To prevent such problems, it is necessary to properly organize an additional room. By following the rules. You can learn about everything you need to know about the competent installation of ventilation in the basement by reading our article.

The opinion of many owners of private houses that it is not necessary in the cellar is erroneous. The holes made in the walls of the storage do not violate the microclimate. Stable ventilation while maintaining the required temperature and humidity will preserve the quality and useful properties of the products stored in the cellar.

It is important to ensure optimal humidity and temperature. Excessive circulation will cause fruits and vegetables to dry out, and insufficient circulation will cause the formation of high humidity, mold, and food spoilage.

Primary requirements

Each private house is equipped with a basement, adding additional square meters of usable space, which is used as a cellar, pantry, gym or workshop. When arranging, follow the rules:

• It is positioned so that one of the sides adjoins one of the outer walls of the residential building.
• Limit the use of a light source in the form of an electric light bulb. There are no windows in the cellar to prevent direct sunlight from entering.
• Provide fresh air supply.
• Maintain humidity not lower than 90%, temperatures within 2-3 degrees Celsius.

Types of ventilation holes in the basement

• Natural ventilation. A perforator cuts holes in the wall: one for fresh air at a distance of 10-15 cm from the floor. The other one is for extracting exhaust air 10 cm from the ceiling on the opposite side. Starts at least half a meter behind the roof.

  An asbestos or plastic pipe is inserted into the openings, the cracks are sealed with cement mortar. Outside, the openings of the pipes are covered with gratings to protect against rodents and debris.

• Forced ventilation. They act according to the principle of natural, but with the installation of fans in the openings. Such a system is more efficient, but more expensive. For underground garages, the only way is possible.
• combined way, when forced ventilation is combined with natural ventilation. Air is supplied by a supply pipe, and the exhaust is carried out by a fan.

In the pit of the garage

Ventilation in the garage basement provides a continuous supply of fresh air, removes unpleasant odors, moisture and fumes, prevents condensation, which prevents damage to equipment.

Air exchange is provided by natural and forced type of ventilation. Both methods have their advantages and disadvantages:

• The first is easy to install, does not require large expenses, but is not effective enough if the room is too large.
• The second is more reliable, but requires the purchase of a fan.

Rules for arranging natural ventilation:

1. Pipes are carried out in opposite corners. The exhaust pipe is led out through the floor and roof of the garage or along any wall with a length of at least 3 meters. At the same time, the edge of the pipe is a meter above the level of the garage, supplemented with a deflector to improve traction.
2. The edge of the inlet pipe is placed 35–55 cm above the level of the basement floor and at a distance of at least 2 meters from the floor to the ceiling.

We offer you to watch a video about the ventilation system in the garage pit:

In a private house

Equipping the ventilation of the basement located in the house, take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. For a small space with a separate exit to the street, it is enough to install natural ventilation with one pipe.

If there is no separate entrance in the cellar, air exchange is provided by two pipes in opposite corners. They are output in the following ways:

1. The exhaust shaft is carried out from the outside of the building, the length is 2 m from the intake opening. The edge of the supply pipe is placed at the level of the plinth.
2. If other buildings interfere with the outlet, the duct is laid through the roof, while the edge of the hood is above the ridge.

How to do it right: step by step instructions

With your own hands, it begins with the preparation of the necessary consumables, determining the method of air exchange.

Equipment and materials

For arrangement you will need:

• asbestos, plastic or galvanized pipes of the same diameter;
• metal sheet or grate.

For a basement with high humidity, it is acceptable to use a larger diameter pipe for exhaust.

Of the tools you need:

• Bulgarian;
• perforator;
• fasteners;
• sealant or plaster mixture.

If you plan to install forced ventilation, stock up on a fan.

System installation

Having prepared materials, tools, proceed to installation:

1. A perforator drills through holes in the wall, located opposite to each other. One 10–15 cm below the ceiling for the exhaust, and for air supply - 15–20 cm above the floor.
2. Pipes are inserted into the openings, fixed, the gap between the pipe and the wall is covered with sealant or plaster.
3. The exhaust pipe is brought out above the surface of the roof or the ground at a distance of at least half a meter. The higher the pipe, the more efficient the ventilation.
4. The supply pipe is also brought out.
5. A visor made of metal sheet is put on the top pipe so that water does not get into the basement.
6. The lower pipe is closed with a fine grate to prevent the penetration of rodents into the cellar.
7. Part of the pipe located on the street is insulated, since in winter the accumulated condensate will turn into ice and reduce traction.
8. The air duct is equipped with dampers for adjusting the incoming and outgoing air.

The exhaust opening located on the roof is higher than the supply air. The optimal distance for the supply outlet is 20–25 cm from the ground.

We offer you to watch a video on how to install a ventilation pipe in the cellar:

Efficiency test

Upon completion of installation work, the efficiency of the system is checked:

1. To do this, light a match, watch the flame. According to the laws of physics, the fire is supported by oxygen, the air supersaturated with carbon dioxide will extinguish the flame. Based on this, conclusions are drawn about how well ventilation works.
2. The second way to check is to bring a paper sheet to the outlets of the pipes. The leaf that has come into motion indicates the correct operation of the system.

Humidity is determined using a glass of water. A misted glass with cold liquid is left for some time in the cellar. If the condensate on the walls of the tank has evaporated, the system is working normally. Otherwise, you will have to adjust the work by adjusting the dampers.

For the correct operation of ventilation, all requirements are observed at all stages - both during design and when checking the operation of the system. A properly functioning extractor hood will preserve the quality of products for a long time, avoiding stale air and excessive humidity.

In contact with

At the word "basement" many people probably have associations with a dark, damp and cold room in which food or something not very necessary is stored. It is this microclimate that is often maintained in cellars. And it is he who greatly harms both the building itself and what will be stored there.

To ensure a favorable microclimate in the basement, it is necessary to organize a properly functioning ventilation system in it. How to do this - consider below.

We will consider the arrangement of ventilation in the basement of small buildings: in a private house, a barn, a garage.

Do you need ventilation in the cellar, and why? (+video)

Yes, it is necessary, and it is necessary. Any room (not only residential, but also basement) needs air exchange.

In the basement, the ventilation system maintains normal humidity. In the basement, it rises very quickly, especially if:

there are no or poorly executed external waterproofing and basement insulation;

there are heavy rains;

there are cracks in the walls of the cellar (through which moisture can penetrate inside);

due to a strong temperature difference, condensation forms on the walls inside.

What happens if there is no ventilation system in the cellar, or does it work poorly?

If the ventilation system in the cellar does not work at all, or does not work well enough, the cottage owner will face such problems:

the air in the basement will be humid, stale - it will be both unpleasant and harmful for a person to be in such conditions;

due to humidity, the interior decoration of the basement (if any) and the floor covering on the floor of the first floor will quickly deteriorate;

the walls of the basement, the ceiling between the basement and the first floor will collapse faster;

the floor on the first floor may be wet (if the ceiling is thin and there is no insulation and waterproofing);

if food is stored in the cellar (for example, potatoes, apples, carrots, and other crops), or products made of wood, fabric, metal, they will deteriorate faster due to moisture;

in rooms on the ground floor may develop an unpleasant smell due to rotting food in the cellar).

Basement ventilation standards

SNiP regulates only the installation of ventilation systems for apartment buildings. In SNiP 31-01-2003 "Residential multi-apartment buildings" there is such information:

In the outer walls of basements that do not have exhaust ventilation, ventilation should be provided with a total area of ​​at least 1/400 of the basement area. Air vents should be evenly spaced around the perimeter of the outer walls. The area of ​​1 vent must be at least 0.05 m².

The air exchange rate should be 1.5. That is, if the basement area is 100 m², then in 1 hour the ventilation system must drive at least 150 m².

The same norms can be relied upon in the construction of basements in low-rise buildings.

How to make cellar ventilation with your own hands: types of schemes

Any ventilation system consists of 2 components: the inflow of fresh air from the street and the removal of moist air from the room.

The very process of air passage from the street to the basement and then its removal from there can be induced in 2 ways:

Natural. Air exchange occurs due to the difference in pressure. The difference is created due to the different heights of the pipes. The exhaust pipe must be carried out above the roof ridge. The method is not very successful - such ventilation will work unstably, and largely depend on the weather.

Forced. The best scheme of any ventilation system is precisely the mechanical design: when air exchange is created by a fan. For the basement, 1 fan standing on the hood is enough.

Below we consider in more detail how to build a ventilation system of both types.

Natural

For natural ventilation, 2 pipes are supplied to the room (one for supply, the second for exhaust). Their openings should be located at different heights: supply - low, exhaust - as high as possible (but always above the roof peak).

Its huge drawback is that performance (the amount of air passing through the basement) is highly dependent on weather conditions. If it is cold and windy outside, the air exchange will be good. If there is no heat and wind - bad.

How to organize natural ventilation yourself:

For inflow, vents are drilled around the perimeter of the basement. If the room is completely buried in the ground, and does not protrude above the surface, you will have to make a pipe leading from the surface.

For the hood, a second pipe is installed on the opposite side of the room. It is displayed above the ridge of the roof so that nothing obscures it from the wind.

It is advisable to install a deflector on top of the exhaust pipe - to improve traction. The supply pipe - is covered with an umbrella (and if it is air - with a ventilation grill).

P forced (+ video with an example)

A more stable and efficient option for ventilating a damp room.

The organization looks like this:

An inflow is made: through the vents (if the basement "protrudes" above the surface) or through the pipe (if the cellar ceiling is below the surface level).

For exhaust - a pipe is removed on the side opposite to the inflow. One end of it should be under the ceiling of the basement, the other - to go outside. It is not necessary to bring it above the roof, but it is possible.

A fan is installed in the exhaust pipe, which will drive air from the room to the street.

If you remove the pipe as in the first case (above the level of the visor), then the ventilation will work according to the natural principle, even if the fan is turned off. If the hood is not brought out above the roof, it will only work when the fan is on.

Where should the intake and exhaust openings be located?

The location rules are:

The inlet must be located opposite the hood.

If the inflow is organized through a pipe, ideally it should go up to a level of about 0.3 m above the basement floor. If air enters the upper part of the room (as happens during the installation of air ducts) - in the lower part, air exchange may be weak, or even absent.

If the inflow is organized through the vents, they should be located along the perimeter of the room so that there are as few “deaf” areas as possible (near which there are no inflow points).

The exhaust duct opening should be located immediately under the ceiling - so that air does not stagnate in the upper part. Ideally it should be a corner. If it is not possible to make a ventilation duct in the corner, then it is desirable to place inflow points in the corners (so that there is also air movement there).

The nuances of arranging a ventilation system depending on the size of the basement

Usually in private houses (both in cottages and in dachas) basements are not very large in area and volume, and consist of 1 room (that is, they do not have rooms). In this case, you can use all the data and rules that are provided in this article.

But if you have a large basement, or if it is divided into several rooms, or if it consists of several "floors", then the ventilation system should be more thought out.

Key points in a nutshell:

If your cellar is divided into rooms (even if there are 2 of them), each of them should have its own inflow point and a “way” for air removal (at least 1 each). Both the inflow and the exhaust can be organized either through the ventilation duct (lead 1 pipe across the street to the inflow and exhaust, and inside - to spread them through the basement), or make air vents in each room.

If your cellar has more than 1 floor, the ventilation system must be installed in each of them. In this case, it is recommended to use only mechanical ventilation (and it is desirable to put the fan on the inflow).

If the basement consists of 1 room, and is large in area (conditionally - from 20-25 "squares"), then it is advisable to use at least 2 inflow points. If you don’t want to make several holes in an existing building, you can make 1 hole, lead a pipe through it from the street inside, and run it along the wall. In the pipe - make several holes at a distance from each other (so that air is supplied through them to different parts of the basement).

An example of a ventilation system for a basement at a depth of 3.5 meters (video)

Service Questions

Listed below are a few of the main issues related to improving and maintaining the system.

How to automate the system?

The microclimate (humidity level and temperature) in the basement can vary over a wide range - since no one constantly controls it, heaters and other climatic equipment are usually not installed in the basement.

Therefore, for more efficient and economical operation of the ventilation system, it should be automated.

Automatic ventilation is organized using sensors:

Temperature sensor. Useful in winter, so as not to manually plug the ventilation in cold weather. The temperature sensor can control the motorized damper to close it, or the exhaust fan speed to reduce or turn off the appliance completely.

Humidity sensor. It is useful at any time of the year (in winter, moisture can penetrate the soil, in the warm season - due to rain). The humidity sensor can control the exhaust fan by increasing or decreasing its speed. If the humidity rises, the fan will spin harder, removing more air. And vice versa: if the humidity is normal, the fan slows down or stops altogether so as not to consume electricity.

Is it worth it to close the ventilation of the cellar for the winter? (+video)

In winter, basement owners are faced with the question: should the ventilation ducts be closed during frosts, or should they be left open?

The bottom line is this: at low temperatures, the air pressure difference in the street and in the room rises. Because of this, air exchange is accelerated (more air passes through the ventilation system). And since the air is frosty, and there are usually no heaters in the basement, the room quickly gets cold. This happens at temperatures from -5-10º and below, especially if the house is in an open area.

It turns out that with open ventilation ducts in severe frost, the owners face the following problems:

products that are stored in the basement can freeze;

with the onset of cold weather, rodents and insects seek a warmer shelter, and through vents they can enter the cellar;

it is difficult to be in the basement without warm clothes (due to the low temperature);

the exhaust pipe can become clogged with frost (since the air in the basement is warmer and more humid, when rising through the pipe, moisture from it can condense on the walls, and the walls from the inside will gradually grow frost);

cold can be transmitted through the ceiling to the rooms on the first floor.

To prevent this, you must either install a heat source (heater) in the basement or cover the ventilation ducts. There is no specific temperature at which it is necessary to close the ventilation of the cellar (but if the temperature is consistently below zero during the day and drops below -5º at night, then you should already pay attention to the ventilation holes). But there is a serious nuance: you need to look not at the thermometer, but at the microclimate in the basement.

Depending on the microclimate, the following measures should be taken:

If the weather is rainy and it is damp or there is condensation inside(a common problem in autumn especially in November)- then ventilation should be left open. If you close it, the humidity in the basement will rise even more, and this will lead to mold.

If there is no condensation, and the humidity is normal, but frost has appeared around the ventilation holes, they need to be covered.Since fine adjustment cannot be achieved, you can first cover the holes by 50%, and after 1-2 days see again if there is frost on them. If there is, then it is necessary to cover the ventilation even more, leaving a small gap.

What exactly needs to be blocked - air flow in the first place(ventilators or supply ventilation ducts). Ideally, the air inlets should be adjustable: damper or adjustable shutters. If this is not the case, the owner will have to close the holes with improvised means. The easiest option is to use a sheet of metal that is attached to the ventilation grill with wire.

How to check cellar ventilation?

If you bought a house and do not know the condition of the ventilation system, or have not been in it for a long time, or simply have not been interested in the operation of ventilation before, it is recommended to check it.

How to improve air exchange?

If the basement ventilation system is not working well enough, you can fix the situation in the following ways:

Clean the exhaust duct and vents (or supply pipes). Over time, the ventilation ducts can become clogged with: leaves, poplar fluff and other small debris. This can either worsen or even stop air exchange. Therefore, if there are problems with ventilation, it must first be examined.

Install the fan in the exhaust duct. The most effective way: forced exhaust is always more effective than natural.

Extend the chimney if possible. The higher the exhaust pipe, the greater the pressure drop, and the better the air exchange will be. The method is not very convenient and simple. It can help if there is some kind of “obstacle” next to your building: taller buildings, or tall trees, or the house itself is in a lowland.

Install a deflector on the exhaust pipe. This is easier to do than building a pipe.

The best way to increase draft is to first check the condition of the ventilation pipes, clean them if necessary, and then install a fan in the chimney.

Which pipes to choose for the ventilation system of the cellar?

Selection rules:

Material. D For ventilation ducts, you can use either plastic pipes or galvanized. Galvanized at a cost slightly more expensive than plastic.Since there is not much difference for small rooms, you can take what you like.

Section shape (round or rectangular). Rectangular ones can be mounted back to back along the walls - which is convenient if the cellar is very small.

How to calculate the ventilation system for the cellar?

The calculation must be carried out to determine 2 indicators:

The total air flow in cubic meters that must pass through the basement in 1 hour. Based on this value, it is necessary to choose the fan power if the exhaust ventilation is mechanical.

Cross-sectional area of ​​air ducts. Based on this value, it will be possible to determine the diameter of the exhaust pipe.

Calculation of air flow (+ determination of fan power)

If you have already built a cellar, but condensation constantly accumulates in it or the temperature rises, you may have installed the ventilation system incorrectly and the flow of fresh air into the room is disrupted. The hood needs to be thought out even at the construction stage, since it will be more difficult to correct the situation later.

From this article you will learn how to properly ventilate the cellar and what work needs to be done for high-quality ventilation of the room.

How to make ventilation in the cellar

Air circulation in the underground storage can be provided naturally or artificially. In the first case, air enters through special openings, and in the second - with the help of fans (Figure 1).

The most simple, inexpensive, but at the same time effective method of ventilation is the supply and exhaust system. For its arrangement, two pipes are installed at different levels, the ends of which are led out into the street. Warm air is exhausted through one of the rooms, and cool air enters through the other. Next, we will consider in more detail how to equip various ventilation systems in basements.

Why is a cellar ventilation system necessary?

Many owners of personal plots believe that it does not make sense to equip any kind of hood in the basement. There is also an erroneous opinion that the presence of holes in the walls or roof of the vault will disturb the stable microclimate. In fact, everything happens the other way around.

Figure 1. The principle of operation of the hood in the basement

In residential areas, the temperature is too high for storing fresh vegetables and preparations in jars, and it is too cold outside (in winter). In the underground storage, subject to proper ventilation, not only a stable temperature is maintained, but the humidity is optimal for storing vegetables. It is with this task that a high-quality hood successfully copes, through which warm air is removed and a moderate amount of fresh oxygen enters.

Calculation and device

For small cellars, one or more holes in the walls, brought out with pipes, will suffice. However, if the storage is large enough, it is better to equip the supply and exhaust system, which will effectively cope with the support of the microclimate.

Note: In large industrial storage facilities, special fans are installed that provide a constant and uniform supply of fresh air. However, such systems are too expensive, and it is not economically profitable to use them in household plots.

To determine how many channels you need for your basement, you need to do some calculations. First, calculate the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room by multiplying the width by the length. Secondly, it should be borne in mind that for each square meter of area, 26 square centimeters of the exhaust duct are needed. For example, if the cellar area is 6 square meters, this figure must be multiplied by 26. The resulting number (156 square centimeters) will mean the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bvents. To determine which diameter will be optimal, you need to take the square root of this number divided by the number Pi. In our example, this figure will be 14 cm. However, for a better removal of warm air and fresh air inflow, this figure can be independently increased by 10-15%.

Do-it-yourself installation

After you have made all the necessary calculations and decided on a suitable diameter, you can proceed with the direct installation of the system.

Installing the hood in the cellar is carried out as follows:

1. If the hood is mounted in an already finished storage, it is necessary to make several holes in the roof.
2. An exhaust pipe is inserted through one hole and fixed so that the lower edge is 10-15 cm below the ceiling, and the upper part protrudes 70-80 cm above the ground.
3. A hole is also made in the opposite corner and a supply pipe is inserted into it. It must be fixed in such a way that the lower edge does not reach the floor by 15-20 cm, and the upper one only protrudes 20-25 cm above the soil surface.

After installation, it is desirable to cover the outer parts with visors and gratings so that atmospheric precipitation does not get inside. Checking the draft intensity is very simple: just attach a sheet of paper to the supply channel. If it fluctuates intensively, then the air flow into the room is good.

The scheme of ventilation in the cellar with one pipe

A single pipe system is applicable only for small rooms, since for large storage areas such an air supply will not be enough to maintain optimal temperature and humidity.

Equipment

To install such an extract, you will need a pipe, which is cut into two parts and inserted into pre-prepared channels. In addition, you will need dampers or visors so that you can independently control the removal of warm air and the flow of fresh air (Figure 2).

If the channel is not led out through the wall, but through the roof, it is also necessary to install visors that will protect the interior of the room from the penetration of rainwater.

What pipe diameter is needed for the hood

As a rule, products with a diameter of 14 cm are used as exhaust channels. However, if you are afraid that such an exhaust will not be enough, you can choose models with a larger diameter.

When choosing, you must take into account the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Not only the diameter of the pipes themselves, but also their number will depend on this. So, for small basements, one or two are enough, and for large storage facilities, the arrangement of a more extensive ventilation system will be required.

If you choose to ventilate using one channel, you should consider that you still have to equip two ducts in the basement. But, unlike the supply and exhaust system, they are equipped not in opposite parts of the room, but parallel to each other.

Figure 2. Scheme of ventilation with one channel

A damper is installed on each channel, which will help control the exchange of air. In this case, to remove warm air, it is enough to open first one channel, and then the other - for fresh oxygen to enter.

Ventilation in the cellar with two pipes

The forced system with two pipes is considered more practical and convenient. Despite the fact that its arrangement will require more effort, the finished structure will function successfully with little or no human intervention. All you need is to periodically check the draft.

Let us consider in more detail how to properly equip such a hood in a home cellar with your own hands (Figure 3).

Equipment

There are several ways to provide forced ventilation using two pipes. The simplest is to install channels of the same diameter in opposite corners of the room. At the same time, they should be installed at different levels so that warm air is effectively removed from the room, and cool air evenly enters.

Also, the ventilation system can be equipped with special fans that will provide a constant flow of air. However, in this case, it is necessary to provide special protection of equipment from moisture. They can also be equipped with special devices - deflectors, which will capture air currents and provide more intense traction.

How to determine the diameter of pipes

In order for the microclimate in the cellar to be stable at any time of the year, it is necessary not only to properly install the system, but also to select pipes suitable for this purpose.

Figure 3. The principle of operation of the hood with two channels

In most cases, cellars in household plots are small, and several pipes with diameters of 10-14 cm are quite enough for them. However, when calculating their number, one should be guided by the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe storage. For small rooms (about 6 square meters), one supply and one exhaust will be enough. But, if the room is larger (for example, 15-20 squares), you will need two pairs. It should be borne in mind that, on average, there should be 26 square centimeters of air duct per square meter of the room.

Rules for installing air ducts

When using a supply and exhaust ventilation system, correct installation plays a key role.

To do this, holes are made in the roof at opposite ends of the room. Their diameter must match the diameter of the pipes used. Next, an exhaust pipe is inserted into one hole. It should be positioned in such a way that the lower end is 15-20 cm from the ceiling, and the upper end protrudes 70-80 cm above the ground.

The supply air is mounted at the opposite end of the room and installed almost above the floor (15-20 cm from the surface). The top, respectively, only a few centimeters rises above the ground. It is advisable to cover the edges brought out to the outside with visors so that rainwater does not enter the room.

Natural ventilation in the cellar

Natural ventilation of the cellar is considered simple, since such systems are easy to install, and their arrangement does not require a lot of materials. However, it should be borne in mind that it will be more difficult to ensure a stable microclimate in the room than when using a supply and exhaust system. In addition, if the temperatures inside the cellar and outside are the same, air circulation may be minimal or completely absent.

Therefore, if you plan to store products in the basement that require a certain temperature, it is better to put a little more effort and equip the supply and exhaust system.

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of natural ventilation is very simple and is based on the difference in pressure and temperature inside and outside the storage. Through one pipe, located almost under the ceiling, warm air is removed from the basement, and through another, which is located almost above the floor, fresh oxygen enters.

However, it should be borne in mind that this method of ventilation is only suitable for small rooms. In large storage areas, priority should be given to forced ventilation.

Equipment

As mentioned above, installing natural ventilation does not require a lot of materials. In this case, you need to prepare two identical pipes (for mounting the system itself), as well as sheet metal or gratings to protect the system from rodents and precipitation.

Let us consider in more detail how the installation of such systems is carried out and what features should be considered when installing them.

Do-it-yourself system installation

First of all, it should be noted that it is necessary to provide holes for laying ventilation ducts even at the construction stage. When the cellar is already built, it will be more difficult to carry out the necessary work.

Natural ventilation is mounted as follows:

1. Holes are made in the walls or ceiling at opposite ends of the cellar.
2. Pipes are inserted into them and fixed.
3. The exhaust is placed so that its lower edge does not reach the floor by 15-20 cm, and the remainder (70-80 cm) protrudes above the ground surface.
4. The supply air is located at the opposite end of the room and lowered almost to the floor (15-20 cm short of the floor), and the rest is also taken out.

From above, they must be covered with visors, otherwise rainwater will be able to freely enter the room. It is also desirable to install small gratings on the lower parts so that rodents do not penetrate into the storage.

Forced ventilation in the cellar with your own hands

In fact, forced ventilation differs from natural only in that fans are installed inside the pipes (ventilation ducts), which provide a more intensive air supply and exhaust (Figure 4).

Principle of operation

The principle of operation of forced ventilation is quite simple. In the simplest version, the fan is installed only on the exhaust pipe. This creates a more active movement of air through the supply opening.

In large rooms, it makes sense to install fans for both exhaust and supply. In this case, it will be difficult to cope with it yourself and it is better to contact a specialist who will help determine the appropriate pipe diameter and fan power.

Equipment

Since forced ventilation is considered more reliable and modern, additional equipment will be required to equip it. Of course, first of all, you need to prepare the required number of channels of a suitable diameter. After that, you should buy fans of a suitable size and power.

Figure 4. Main elements of forced ventilation

It is also necessary to provide waterproofing of devices from moisture, which can enter the room from the outside or seep through the walls.

Do-it-yourself system installation

Forced ventilation is a little more difficult to install than natural. To help you install it yourself, we recommend using our step-by-step instructions.

Forced exhaust in the cellar is set as follows:

1. Holes are drilled in the walls or ceiling for ducting, or voids are used that were previously left for this purpose during the construction phase.
2. Pipes are laid in the holes. You can use metal, plastic or cement products.
3. The supply and exhaust pipes are installed in opposite corners of the room and at different levels, as in the case of natural ventilation.
4. A fan is mounted inside each pipe and dampers are installed so that the intensity of ventilation can be adjusted if necessary.

The upper parts of the pipes protruding to the surface must be covered with visors. In the case of natural ventilation, this requirement is more of a recommendation, while for the forced type it must be observed, as rainwater can damage the fans and the entire system will be disturbed.

The video shows how best to equip natural ventilation in the basement.

Whether to close the ventilation in the cellar in winter

If the ventilation system is designed and installed correctly, you can not close the openings for the winter. However, this is entirely dependent on climatic conditions. For example, if the temperature outside drops below -10 degrees, you need to periodically cover the openings, as the temperature difference between inside and outside will create a powerful draft, which will lead to rapid hypothermia of the storage.

In very severe frosts, it is better to close the ventilation ducts completely, and with a slight increase in temperature, you can briefly open them for ventilation.

What pipes for ventilation in the cellar are better

The modern building materials market provides a wide selection of pipes that can be used as ventilation ducts. When choosing, most often guided by personal preferences and financial capabilities.

Recently, most cellar owners choose PVC pipes or cement products. This is due to the fact that such pipes are relatively inexpensive, easy to install, but at the same time they are resistant to fungi and have a long service life.

Do you need ventilation in the cellar in winter

You need to ventilate the cellar throughout the year, although some underground storage owners believe that ventilation is not needed in winter. This is a common misconception, but there is still some truth in it.

If it is very cold outside (about -10-20 degrees), the temperature difference between inside and outside becomes too large and the draft in the ventilation ducts increases greatly. If the openings are not closed in time, the cellar can quickly freeze, and fresh vegetables or preparations will deteriorate. Therefore, it is recommended to control the temperature in the room, and in severe frosts completely close the channels until warming.

You will find useful recommendations for installing the ventilation system in the video.

Smirnov Pavel Petrovich

Experienced specialist in ventilation and air conditioning systems. He has been working in this field for over 15 years.

Articles written

The basement is located under the building. Its dimensions are limited by the foundation on the sides and the draft floor of the first floor from above. Below is soil or man-made flooring.

Due to the underground location, seasonal temperature fluctuations in the underground are not significant, but the importance indicators are quite large. This factor contributes to the appearance of fungus, mold and accelerates the destruction of the building structure. You can make ventilation in the basement of a private house with your own hands, increasing the life of the building and expanding the usable space of the house due to the exploited underground.

The need for ventilation

According to building codes, the ventilation project is an integral part of the overall project. In private
housing construction, the requirements of SNiP are not always met. Having bought a ready-made house, the owners may be faced with inefficient basement ventilation, or with its complete absence. Insufficient ventilation leads to stagnation and accumulation of radioactive radon gas in the subfield. Negative consequences of mistakes in construction:

• The formation of fungus on load-bearing structures weakens their strength characteristics.
• Mold spores enter the home, causing harm to people's health.
• worsens the microclimate in the house.
• When insulating floors with mineral wool, high humidity reduces energy savings.

These reasons are enough to arrange basement ventilation.

Work order

Make sure that the waterproofing of the underground space is reliable. If water seeps in from the outside, no ventilation system can cope with dampness.

Moisture can be removed from the basement by waterproofing the foundation and installing a drainage system. If water supply and drainage communications pass underground, you need to wrap them with a cylindrical PVC foam insulation to get rid of condensate. Depending on the size, configuration and purpose of the basement, select the installation scheme.

How to make ventilation in the basement in a private house

If the basement is not used, but communications pass there, it is enough to ensure natural air exchange. For an area of ​​​​more than 50 m2, you need to make a hood in the basement. If it is necessary to store vegetables and preserves in the underground, separate part of the room, equip it with air supply and exhaust, while the rest can be ventilated by natural convention.

In the case when the ground floor has a full height and a concrete floor, it is advisable to equip it with a sauna or a workshop. Forced ventilation is more appropriate here, and the installation of an exhaust air recovery system will save on heating.

Natural basement ventilation in a private house

The least expensive way is a natural ventilation device through the vents. At the stage of foundation construction, provide paired holes located on opposite walls. According to clause 9 of SNiP 31.01 * 2003, the total area of ​​\u200b\u200bvents is at least one four hundredth of the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe entire basement.

Important! In areas with elevated radiation indicators, the ratio decreases to 1/150.

Calculate the number and size of each hole. The shape of the air is not regulated.

• To eliminate "dead zones", step back 0.9 meters from the inner corners, and distribute the air evenly along the entire length of the wall.
• Make a similar markup for the opposite wall. If the hole size exceeds 0.3x0.3 meters, reinforce around the perimeter. To prevent flood water from flowing, please note that the minimum height of the lower part of the duct along the outer wall must be at least 0.3 meters from the ground level.
• Cover the openings with a rodent net.

When pouring the strip foundation, insert at regular intervals the trimmings of sewer PVC pipes, hermetically closing the holes. After the concrete has hardened and the formwork has been removed, you will get neat products.

Note! If the layout of the underground floor provides for several isolated rooms, it is necessary to provide air exchange for each.

If it is necessary to break through the air in the finished foundation, calculate their total size in a similar way. To work, you need a hammer drill or a crown for concrete for drilling round holes. Remember that the violation of the integrity of the foundation can weaken its bearing capacity, consult with a specialist, or choose another method of ventilating the underground space.

Supply and exhaust system

The disadvantage of natural exhaust is its dependence on the strength and direction of the wind, as well as humidity. atmospheric air. Supply and exhaust is more efficient and affordable. The principle of its operation is based on the temperature difference at the lower and upper points of the subfloor. The easiest way to make a hood in the basement is with PVC pipes. Advantages of the sewer pipe system:

• low cost;
• ease of assembly;
• the presence of shaped parts;
• low weight of the structure.

Even a person who does not have construction qualifications can perform the installation. It does not require expensive tools to work.

Stages of work

The supply and exhaust pipes should be located on opposite walls.

• At a distance of 0.5 meters from the lowest point, fix the pipe and bring it to the surface at a height of 1 meter, thereby ensuring the flow of fresh air.
• Install the exhaust pipe so that its lower part is 1.5 meters above the floor, and the upper one rises above the roof ridge at a height of 0.5 meters.
• Make sure the joints are sealed.
• Insulate the duct.
• Install an umbrella on top of the system to prevent rain from entering.

In a properly installed system, the temperature difference and pressure difference will create thrust.

Important! The fewer bends in the structure, the more effectively moisture is removed.

At the end of the work, check the draft by bringing a lit candle to the hood. If the flame of the candle deviates towards its opening, then the system is working correctly. If the light deviates in the other direction, this indicates the presence of reverse thrust. You can fix the problem by increasing the height of the exhaust pipe or installing a deflector head.

Forced ventilation of the basement in a private house

If the efficiency of natural air exchange is low, install a duct fan in the exhaust pipe. Installing a second device in the supply pipe will increase the performance of the system. The principle of operation is to pump outdoor air into the underground and more intensive removal of exhaust air masses to the outside.

Important! The fans in both pipes must run at the same time.

The power of the appliances is calculated by the consultant of the specialist shop based on the size of the room.

Modern duct fans are equipped with a casing and are equipped with fasteners, so their installation will not cause difficulties. Some models are equipped with a timer, which allows you to automate the frequency of turning on the system.

According to sanitary standards, the heated living quarters of the basement need air conditioning and filtration. Installing a recuperator will allow you to heat the incoming air due to the heat of the exhaust. Due to the complexity of calculations and a large amount of work, entrust the design and installation of such systems to specialists.

Video: how to make ventilation in the basement of a country house

A trend has developed in modern private houses to equip a basement, which can have various purposes: a workshop, a gym, a boiler room or a cellar for storing food. This is very convenient, because, without leaving your own home on the street, you can get access to the necessary provisions, and the residents are not afraid of any weather surprises. But for the full functioning of the cellar, it is necessary to properly equip its ventilation, otherwise unpleasant incidents will arise that negatively affect the state of the microclimate and entail damage to the products. The most common scheme is cellar ventilation with two pipes.

What must be observed

To achieve the optimal microclimate in the cellar, you need to listen to the opinion of experts and try to comply with the following requirements:

1. Appropriate shading. It is advisable to exclude the arrangement of window openings in the cellar, and use artificial lighting only during the presence of a person in it.
2. Optimal temperature level. The deeper the cellar is equipped from the ground level, the lower the temperature can be provided in it. Normative indicators are + 5ºС.
3. Access to fresh and purified air. This is achieved by equipping a high-quality ventilation system in the basement.
4. The degree of moisture in the basement should be 90%.

Is ventilation necessary?

Starting the arrangement of the basement, we will figure out whether ventilation is necessary in it, as experts recommend. So, what conditions for the functioning of the basement are achieved with the help of a ventilation system:

• creation of optimal conditions for long-term storage of vegetables;
• without ventilation, the air in the basement will be musty and damp, and such a microclimate contributes to the development of rot and mold;
• if you arrange strong ventilation, this will lead to drafts and drying of vegetables.

We conclude that the ventilation device in the cellar is necessary, while it must be very competently and efficiently executed.

Basement ventilation with one pipe

The easiest way to install basement ventilation is to equip one pipe. It plays the role of an exhaust device. With this option, the supply element is not installed. Cellar ventilation with a single pipe is criticized, but it should be noted that it has its pros and cons. Positive factors are low price and ease of installation. The disadvantage is clearly seen in the impossibility of achieving a full-fledged ventilation system, since the supply of fresh air is almost absent.

Therefore, you should heed the advice of professionals, and give priority to the ventilation system in the cellar using two pipes. This option will come out a little more expensive, but the result is worth it. The safety of the products will be guaranteed.

We carry out calculations

Before starting any construction work, it is necessary to make appropriate measurements and draw up a drawing plan. The diameter of the pipes plays a decisive role in ensuring effective ventilation. It should be such that the amount of fresh air is sufficient to ensure an optimal microclimate in the basement.

The diameter of the pipes is determined in a fairly simple way. The number that determines the diametrical section of the pipes should be twice the number that expresses the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe cellar. For example, if the area is 10 m², then the diameter of the pipes should be 20 cm. This is the simplest way to calculate. Another one can also be applied: 26 cm² of pipe area is calculated per square meter.

More about pipe materials

After performing the calculations and determining the diametrical section, it is necessary to establish for ourselves what material we will use the pipes for ventilation from. Two main types are designated, which today are popular and justify their functional purpose:

• low-pressure polyethylene;
• asbestos cement.

Let's give a small description of the proposed options for exhaust pipes:

• Asbestos-cement pipes resemble the structure of slate, which is why they are called slate pipes in everyday use. This material is reliable, durable and quite durable.
• Pipes made of polyethylene are in no way inferior in reliability and strength to asbestos-cement pipes, but they are easy to install, even without the involvement of specialists. But still, it should be noted that they must be soldered together. If there are no soldering skills, then the desired result will not be obtained immediately, you will need to practice.

Table of standard sizes of plastic sewer pipes for ventilation

There are no special rules for choosing a material, you can use any. You should rely on your prejudices and the features of the basement. For example, if the basement is small and its aesthetic appearance is unimportant, then you can use any pipes, even used ones. If doubts remain, it is better to turn to professionals.

Technology for arranging ventilation with two pipes

A worthy option for arranging the necessary microclimate is the ventilation of the cellar with two pipes, the so-called supply and exhaust. To prepare its arrangement in the basement, even at the level of construction work, it is necessary to install two pipes. One of them serves for the influx of clean air, the other for exhaust.

Now let's get acquainted with the basic requirements that are taken into account when installing pipes:

• The hood should fully remove stagnant air from the basement. It is necessary to equip it in one of the corners of the room, and the lower base must be placed under the very ceiling of the cellar. The pipe must pass strictly vertically through all the premises of the house and its outer end must be 0.5 m higher above the level of the roof ridge. You also need to take care of how to prevent condensation in the warm season, or frost in the winter. To do this, experts recommend making the air duct in the form of a sandwich panel. It is necessary to invest two pipes of different diametrical sections and lay insulation between them. The difference in pipe diameters should be about 5 cm.
• The functional purpose of the supply pipe is to ensure the flow of fresh air. Installed diagonally to the chimney. The inner end of the pipe is located about 0.6 m above the floor level. This air duct may not pass through the entire building, but be brought out to a distance of 0.8 m above the basement level.
  In order to prevent foreign objects or insects from entering the cellar, it is better to protect the outer ends of the pipes with a mosquito net.
• The next step in arranging the ventilation system is fixing the pipes. They can be attached to the wall of the building by means of clamps, selected in accordance with the diametrical section.
• You should also take into account the moments when, with a sharp temperature drop, the movement of air flow through the ducts can increase. This leads to drafts. In order to eliminate this phenomenon, it will not be superfluous to install special valves. With their help, you can subsequently regulate the air circulation.

Checking in action

After the arrangement of the ventilation system is completed, it is necessary to check how efficiently it works. To do this, we need a regular piece of paper. It will move slightly if you bring it to the exhaust devices.

The next way is smoke from coals, which can be brought into the basement for a while. You just need to watch his behavior.

In the event that the ventilation system is not equipped correctly, dampness and mustiness will appear in the cellar over time. Condensation and mold will form.

Elimination of defects

In the event that it is found that ventilation does not perform its functions properly, you can try to correct the situation.

• Adjust dampers to increase fresh air intake.
• Lengthen the exhaust pipe to enhance the draft process.
• If these steps fail, combined ventilation should be provided. To do this, it is necessary to mount a ventilation device with a power of up to 100 W in the design for the hood. By strengthening the process of extracting air, its density will decrease, and new flows will begin to arrive more efficiently.

The most advanced option for arranging a forced basement exhaust system in the basement of a house is a mechanized method. With such a system, the movement of air flows in the basement is controlled by a monoblock. The system itself is able to control air flows, adjust their degree of inflow. This is the best version of a modern ventilation system that can provide an optimal microclimate in the basement for many years. The only downside is the high price.

In conclusion

So, a properly equipped ventilation system will show its priorities in just two weeks of its operation. The air in the cellar will become optimally humid, the vegetables will not freeze and dry out, and the temperature will stabilize in the range from + 10ºС to + 40ºС.