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The cheapest way to build an extension. Frame extension to the house - an additional area with your own hands

Expanding the useful area of a private house with the help of an additional extension allows you to solve a lot of problems, first of all, to increase the usable area and increase the level of comfort. An extension to a wooden house is easier to formalize legally than a new building, and it can be built much cheaper than if you rebuild the entire box of the house. It is only necessary to choose the right project to make the wooden extension box one with the building box.

Features of planning an extension to a wooden house

Let the simplicity and modest size of the attached premises not be misleading. Not so simple. Experienced craftsmen recommend taking the problem of arranging an extension to a wooden house as seriously as if you had to build a real house or make another floor.

There are two "narrow" moments in the extension design:

It is necessary to properly plan and make a junction of two foundations. It is not enough to build an additional base for an extension, you also need to make it safe so that a small foundation does not cause settlement or deformation of the walls;
Choose the shape and method of attaching the extension truss system to the box of a wooden house. Depending on the chosen project, part of the roof of a wooden house will have to be dismantled in order to build one common slope or make it in a broken pattern.

It is no more difficult to build walls, cut windows, doorways, lay the floor in an extension, hang insulation and perform decorative trim, equipping a ceiling is no more difficult than when building an ordinary house.

The most interesting type of extension to the house is made with a sliding front wall. If necessary, the room can be easily transformed into a living room or made into a summer kitchen.

Extensions to a wooden house: types, purpose

Of course, building planning begins with the general idea of building an additional room. Most often, the owners decide to build a separate room, floor or even part of a wooden house in order to allocate additional living space for guests or family members, equip a recreation area, make a utility room or install additional boiler equipment.

A modern wooden house is considered a rather complex structure. After assembly, the wooden house adjusts to the foundation for a long time, the walls and crowns shrink. In order to build a strong and stable extension to a building from a bar or log, it will take at least a year of waiting.

Traditionally, the owners prefer to make an extension of:

aerated concrete blocks;
Profiled timber;
Red or silicate brick;
Sip panels or homemade wooden shields.

One of the most popular trends is the use of glass or polycarbonate panels. Double-glazed windows provide good thermal insulation, and excess sunlight makes it possible to make the extension room in the form of a closed veranda or winter garden.

Often, an extension has to be built by blocking windows in a wooden house with walls. A transparent roof or a polycarbonate wall solves the problem of shading the living space.

Frame house extension

If you want to build an additional room to a wooden house in the shortest possible time, it is best to make an extension in the form of a frame-panel structure. At first glance, the frame scheme looks very complicated: a lot of wooden racks and lintels sheathed with OSB boards, plywood and tongue and groove board. In fact, making the frame of an extension to a wooden house is not difficult even for a novice carpenter.

The wireframe has its advantages:

The light weight of the extension makes it possible to make a simple and inexpensive pile foundation instead of the traditional strip foundation. The time needed to build an additional building is reduced from two to three weeks to a few days;
The cost of building a frame extension is about half of the cost of a similar structure made of timber or aerated concrete;
The frame extension, with a small weight, has high rigidity due to the use of a large number of struts and struts;
Thanks to the use of an openwork power scheme of the frame, the attached room can be quite large, even two floors;
Even if a wooden house is equipped with a complex sloping roof, it is much easier to build a full-fledged roof for an extension and connect it to the truss system of the building than if the attached box is made of brick or foam block.

In the form of a frame extension, you can make a warmed veranda, a bathhouse and even a rest room. If a wooden house is placed on a concrete strip foundation, huge window openings can be made in the attached room, turning it into a studio or dining room.

The frame scheme of the extension is ideal for building an attic room on the second floor of a wooden house. Even if the building is built of logs, modern insulation materials provide comfortable living conditions in winter.

Ideally, the frame extension should be built on a strip concrete foundation. It may not be the cheapest way to build additional space, but using MZLF provides several tangible benefits:

Firstly, the concrete tape significantly enhances the rigidity of the frame extension. An exception may be the options when a wooden house for a number of reasons had to be made on a pile foundation;
Secondly, a rigid base will exclude the manifestation of such unpleasant phenomena as wall skew or settlement of door and window openings, even if the windows in the extension are made half a wall.

If you correctly tie the concrete tape under the extension to the base of the wooden house, then regardless of the shrinkage processes, there will never be gaps or gaps between the walls of the house and the attached building, which are typical for heavy brick and stone structures.

But there is one limitation, experts do not recommend building frame rooms on concrete strip foundations in conditions of heavily watered soils. In addition to the forces of frost heaving, which deform the base of the attached premises, the wooden frame extension, even when waterproofing is used, is quite sensitive to ground moisture.

One example of solving a similar problem in the construction of frame extensions is the joint construction of an extension and an open terrace on a foundation of a grillage or pile type.

A huge shield terrace made of larch or polymer board is installed on a foundation of screw piles, photo. The strength and rigidity of the pile foundation field is enough to build a huge frame structure on the terrace with just huge windows. The wooden walls of the house and the attached premises are covered with ventilated siding with a natural stone finish.

Extension to the house of foam blocks

Using a foam block greatly simplifies the task. The light weight of the wall block allows you to build extension boxes of various shapes and sizes. The only essential condition is the use of the most rigid foundation. Even if, before the construction of the extension, the wooden house was built on piles, the foam concrete box must be installed on the MZLF.

Due to the low rigidity of the foam concrete masonry, the attached room is usually extended along one of the walls of a wooden house. This allows you to make the extension sufficiently stable without internal lintels and walls. A wooden house due to an extension, as it were, increases in length.

Wooden and foam concrete walls need protection from rain and frost, most often with the help of external cladding made of clapboard or siding. In this case, the dimensions of the attached box are adjusted to the dimensions of the wooden house so that after laying the siding or ventilated facade, the building looks like a single monolithic building.

The foam block, easy to process and fit, makes it relatively easy to build an extension box of the most intricate shape and configuration. For example, if you can build a closed veranda on the entire wall of the house, while making part of the extension in the form of a bay window.

The construction of an extension from foam blocks on the entire wall of a wooden house is possible only if an additional concrete strip can be added to the strip foundation of the building for the attached room.

In addition, the walls of foam blocks at the level of window openings must be reinforced with a reinforcing belt made of a metal profile. The easiest way is to make a belt from a channel with metal embedded in the corners of the wooden walls of the house.

In this case, an attached building can be built even on a relatively weak foundation; the channel belt will keep the extension from tipping over or buckling walls.

Extension to a wooden house from a bar

It is technologically much more difficult to make a timber extension to a wooden house than to build an additional room from brick or aerated concrete.

First of all, the foundation, experts categorically recommend making a foundation of the same type under the extension as under the main building. If for some reason it is impossible to use the advice, then the attached timber box is best done on a pile foundation.

The second problem is the shrinkage of the wooden walls of the building. Regardless of the foundation and roof design chosen, the timber extension will shrink for at least another year, so expansion gaps will need to be made on the walls and roof truss system.

The easiest way is to build an additional room below the installation level of the truss system of a wooden house. In this case, the roof of the extension does not exert much pressure on the mauerlat and the upper rims of the roofing system. It is enough to make a swinging node adjoining the shed roof of the extension to the wooden wall of the house, if you build the node correctly, then the shrinkage processes of the timber walls will not affect the stability of the main box of the building.

If an extension from a bar needs to be made equal in height to the walls of a wooden house, then you will have to build a common roof for the entire structure. To do this, it will be necessary to disassemble the roofing and make a transitional part for the articulation of the truss system of a wooden house with a shed extension system.

The above method of combining the roofing of two buildings guarantees the absence of leaks, even if the shrinkage of the attached premises exceeded the calculated values. If necessary, a canopy over the entrance to the house can be made from a new common roof slope or a wooden terrace can be built. It is enough to lengthen the overhang and install additional supports, however, this can be done no earlier than the shrinkage of the walls of the extension ends.

Do-it-yourself extension to a wooden house: step by step instructions

The problem of expanding the existing housing stock is especially relevant for summer and country houses. As a rule, a cottage is bought together with a house. In the process of the first redevelopment and distribution of the usable area of the building, it becomes clear that the wooden house requires a radical reconstruction. At a minimum, you will need to attach a veranda or covered terrace for relaxation. The earlier a wooden extension is made, the cheaper the construction of a country house will be.

Preparation for construction

It is best to build an additional area on the sunny side of the building. Wooden walls do not like direct sunlight, so the surface of the wood is additionally primed with a protective varnish, Tikkurila is best. Regardless of which side of the wooden house it is planned to build an additional room, the box is reinforced with staples, vapor barrier and mineral fiber boards are laid. It is extremely necessary to insulate the extension, even if the project involves the construction of a warm extension.

Foundation laying

Following the golden rule for the construction of extensions, the foundation for the base of the attached premises must be chosen the same as for a wooden house. In this case, the attached box can be built on a columnar foundation. Such a scheme is simpler and cheaper than a tape or pile version.

If the purchased wooden cottage has problems with the shrinkage of part of the supports, then it is best to make a remote MZL foundation that will cover both the old building and the new building.

Important! In this case, the problem of joining the bases of the attached and main wooden premises is automatically solved.

In order to make a columnar foundation, you will need:

Clean the top layer of soil under the base of the extension, remove the sod, remove the grass and the remains of the roots, the surface is covered with geotextile so that weeds do not grow, covered with a layer of sand and rammed in two or three passes;
The next step is to make columnar supports, the easiest way is to build supports by casting a concrete mixture into a wooden formwork. If the site has a slope of the surface, then the supports must be connected to each other with reinforcement bundles, even without embedding it in concrete. Anchor studs, 100-150 mm high, are embedded in the supporting surface of the pillars;
Approximately four hours after pouring, it is necessary to trim the supporting surface so that all sites are located in the same strictly horizontal plane.

After the concrete has set, it is necessary to remove the wooden formwork and make waterproofing, it is best to paste over the supports with roofing material on bituminous mastic. Next, you need to build the harness and the base of the extension, which will connect the sole of the attached room with the foundation of the wooden building.

Connecting the foundation to the base of a wooden house

Strapping can be done no earlier than three days after pouring concrete. In winter, the exposure time is doubled. First you need to build a mounting plane. To do this, one beam is laid on two edge rows of columnar supports, so that they are parallel to the wooden wall of the house. Next, a support beam is sewn onto the adjacent wall of the wooden house, this must be done strictly along the horizon line.

The transverse beams of the piping of the columnar foundation will rest freely at one end on the beam sewn to the wall, the rest of the wooden piping after alignment will be fixed on the supports. In this way, it is possible to build and connect the foundations of an extension and a wooden house using a flexible ligament.

If you make a concrete strip foundation for a wooden house and an attached room, then the connection between the bases will need to be built according to the diagram below. An expansion joint is made between the concrete strips of the two foundations, into which a triple-folded glass roofing material is laid.

Installation of the floor in the annex

After finishing work with the foundation, before building the floor and load-bearing elements of the walls, it is necessary to do, as they say, “welding” the wooden parts. The foundation wood is subjected to a three-fold treatment:

The fungus, woodworms are etched with an aqueous solution of chromic, the second pass is to treat wooden structures with vitriol oil;
In the next run, the wooden beams are fired with a blowtorch or gas burner to make the pores in the wood susceptible to finishing with drying oil or oil paint;
All wooden elements of the foundation of the extension are painted with a protective compound, it is best to do the treatment with silicate protective paints.

Note! After impregnation with organosilicon protective compounds, a wooden extension can be built even on wet marshy ground.

Before building the floor, it is necessary to measure the distance between the cross beams of the strapping in order to make the floor as strong as possible, without creaking boards and deflections. The distance between the lags should be no more than 60 cm, so the strapping beams are either diluted with intermediate beams, or oblique wooden corners are sewn on.

The next step is to do the flooring. The lower plane of the wooden strapping is lined with a tongue-and-groove board, plywood or an ordinary sawlog. Waterproofing and mineral seal mats are laid inside the box, then another layer of vapor barrier film is laid, and the future floor can be laid with a rough floorboard. As long as the board is only tacked to the base, the finished floor can be built after the walls and ceiling have been erected.

Extension windows and doors

One of the most difficult stages in the construction of an extension is associated with the construction of supporting pillars of the walls and ceiling. For the equipment of the load-bearing racks of a wooden extension, a bar with a section of 90x90 mm is used, preferably spruce or pine, but always of the first grade, without knots or signs of damage to the fibers.

Instead of an expensive bar, racks can be made from a forty board. Two edged boards are knocked down at the edges with nails and loosened into blocks on a circular saw. For each pair, you need to make sizing with carpentry glue, and then dry it under pressure. From a home-made timber, you can easily make load-bearing racks, floor beams, window and door frames without any problems.

Homemade beams are installed vertically on the strapping beam and fastened with struts. After alignment, the elements of the future frame are sewn together with beams of the upper and middle strapping. After assembling the racks, you need to make blanks for window and door openings.

Boxes can be built directly into the frame of the extension or made separately according to the size of the window frames. The door hatch is installed together with the door, reinforced with struts and side ligaments. If it is planned to use a plastic door and windows, then the transitional wooden frame can be immediately fixed to the frame using mounting foam.

Roof and its docking with the main roof

Before building the roof and walls of the extension, it is necessary to lay the beams of the ceiling. The principle of laying ceiling beams practically does not differ from the construction of lags for the floor.

Initially, the upper ceiling trim is marked for laying another layer of a wooden beam - a Mauerlat, on which it will be possible to build a roof frame. Next, in the upper harness and the Mauerlat beam, you need to make cuts or cut the grooves for laying the ceiling beam.

Depending on the size of the wooden extension, the ceiling is made of timber 70x90 mm or 90x90 mm. In places of tie-in, the floor beams are attached to the upper trim with self-tapping bolts. After assembling the ceiling, it is necessary to lay the Mauerlat beams, after combining the sawn grooves with the protrusions of the ceiling beams, it is nailed to the upper strapping of the wooden frame of the extension.

Before building a roof truss frame, experts recommend hemming the ceiling with a grooved board, you can use OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, 15-18 mm thick. Ceiling filing will give the opportunity to work freely and move around the ceiling.

Common roof rafters

In order to build a common roof truss system for a wooden house and an extension, it will be necessary to disassemble and remove the roofing of the adjacent slope. If an attic room is built on the second floor of the cottage, then the lower part of the rafters will need to be removed. So that the frame of the attic room does not deform, it is necessary to make several struts or stops to compensate for the pressure on the attic of the roofing pie from the opposite side.

In order to build a new slope, it is enough to replace the old rafters with new, longer and heavier ones. The upper end of the rafters rests on the auxiliary ridge bar of the attic, with the lower cut they stand on the Mauerlat of the upper trim of the extension.

To compensate for the weight of the heavier new rafters, an additional brace-reinforced support must be built under each beam. Next, a crate, cornice and wind slats are stuffed onto the rafters. If the attic is planned to be built in an insulated version, it will be necessary to build a counter-lattice and ventilation of the roofing pie.

Roof finishing and insulation

The main difficulty faced in the process of restoring or laying a new roofing is the limited access to insulating and insulating materials of the upper roof slope. In order to build reliable insulation and waterproofing of the roof, without cold bridges and lines of condensate leakage, it is necessary to connect the vapor barrier membranes of the upper and lower roof slopes very tightly and with high quality.

This is not easy to do. To build a single protection, it is necessary to lift the bottom row of slate or metal tiles in order to run the film under the roofing and securely glue it to the top layer of the film material.

The rest of the roll of waterproofing and vapor barrier film is rolled down the slope and fixed with the slats of the counter-lattice. The heater returns to its place. To prevent the redistribution of condensate from warmer layers to colder parts of the roof, the roof insulation must be built from the same material. If it is not possible to build up the enlarged plane of the new slope with a material identical to the old insulation, then it is better to replace the fiber boards throughout the roof with new mats.

To build the first row of roofing on the line of joining the slopes, it is necessary to make a transition node. Usually it is a wooden plank cut with a wedge or a bar stuffed along the edge of the upper slope. This must be done, since the angle of inclination of the new slope, under which the extension and part of the wooden house fit, has become smaller, which means that part of the rainwater can penetrate through the junction line. To avoid leakage, the joint line is glued with polyurethane foam and bituminous mastic.

Construction and wall insulation

After the roof and ceiling have been assembled, waterproofing and insulation have been laid, it is necessary to build the insulation of the walls and floor of the wooden extension. Initially, you need to check how much the geometry of the walls has changed, window and door openings have deformed under load from the weight of the truss system, insulation and ceiling. In places where the formed cracks and gaps are visible to the naked eye, it will be necessary to tighten and align the racks so that they return to their original place, this can be done with an ordinary heavy hammer and mount.

After leveling the places where the gaps have formed, they are reinforced with metal plates, if the vertical stand has led, then two additional horizontal struts will need to be made. The walls of the wooden extension are reinforced with horizontal and side braces at the installation sites of window frames and doors.

Further, the outer surface of the extension frame is sewn up with a rail, if it is supposed to be siding, then the bar can be filled in increments of 1.5 cm, in other cases the surface is clogged solid. The next step is to build the insulation of the room, most often fiber mineral thermal insulation is placed in the windows-niches of wooden walls, which is glued with adhesive tape and blown with foam. A vapor barrier is laid on top of the basalt fiber.

The inside of the wall upholstery can be made of wooden slats, but most often OSB boards or plywood are used in extensions, but walls can just as well be lined with drywall or MDF panels.

To insulate the floor, you can use cheaper expanded clay backfill, the material is quite strong and durable, on its basis you can build an ideally warm base of a wooden extension. Its only drawback is the strong absorption of water, if the extension room is heated intermittently for several days, then in a month the expanded clay will become wet from condensate, and it will be extremely difficult to dry it.

Some legal points

One of the reasons why the owners decide to build an additional room to a wooden house is a common misconception that light wooden extensions are not subject to registration with state authorities.

In fact, the situation is ambiguous. On the one hand, the Town Planning Code states that non-permanent structures include only small structures and details of capital buildings that do not affect communications, characteristics, fire safety and load-bearing elements of the structure. These include canopies, canopies, balconies and porch groups built on the same foundation with a capital house.

It is difficult to build an ordinary extension to a wooden house so that it looks like a balcony or a porch. The only exception is an extension in the form of a porch group or a covered veranda. It is enough to declare such an extension as an explicit character. To do this, an application is submitted to the BTI to amend the passport of a wooden house. In fact, a decision will be made, on the basis of which it is possible to re-register the documents.

For all other options for an extension to a wooden house, regardless of the size, material and foundation scheme, before starting work, it will be necessary to issue a building permit, provide a package of documents and pay a fee. All that remains is to build an extension and sign an acceptance certificate at the inspection.

The package of documents includes:

cadastral plan,
Passport for a wooden house;
Site plan;
Copies of documents of the owner;
Extension project.

After coordination with the supervisory authorities and a positive decision of the commission, it will be possible to register the property and make changes to the technical passport.

Conclusion

You can build an additional room to a wooden house without permission. If all the norms of SNiPs for the construction of extensions are observed, then it is possible to register an unauthorized construction by a court decision. As a rule, objects with a readiness of more than 60% that do not pose a threat to the population and the environment receive a positive decision. This is not a quick and expensive business, sometimes it is easier and cheaper to build a wooden extension than to register it.

The best option to expand the usable area in a private house is to build an extension to it. Attached premises can be of different shapes, sizes and have their own purpose. As a rule, the selection of certain building materials from which the attached part of the house will be built depends on the intended purpose. In this version, after a major overhaul and redevelopment in the house, it became necessary to attach an entrance hall. As with any construction, a drawing sketch was previously made, on it is a geometric view of the extension and the main exact dimensions and heights. The next step is the selection of building materials and the miscalculation of estimates for their purchase. Having considered and calculated various options for building an extension, taking into account the minimum financial costs and the minimum construction time, the optimal solution was chosen in the following sequence and from such building materials.

How to build an extension

The shape of the extension is L-shaped, the size of the foundation is 2.7 x 2.7 meters. First of all, we mark the perimeter and prepare the site.

The fastest way to build walls is a frame. The advantages of this method include the minimum waste of building materials. You just have to choose the right length of the bars and their number.

We begin the installation of the frame by screwing the bars to the base of the floor using a perforator and dowels. They must be set flush with the foundation and be sure to have an insulating tape. As a tape, cut polyethylene foam with a thickness of 5 millimeters was used.

Then we set the side bars according to the level and nail to the walls. At this stage, it is necessary to correctly calculate the height and slope of the entire frame. In our case, the roof will be a continuation of the existing roof. Having fixed the corner beam in an even vertical position, we lay the upper beams and twist the main frame with self-tapping screws.

Next, you need to mark the door and window opening. We know the dimensions of the door and window in advance. In order not to cut the OSB sheets on the side of the doorway, we step back from the wall with a size equal to the sheet width of 125 centimeters, and set the timber at the level. Having measured the width of the door, we install the second beam, this will be the opening for the deri. On the other wall, we mark and install racks under the window, we install horizontal jumpers to them. Having formed a window opening, we deliver and fasten with self-tapping screws the required number of rack beams, and then we reinforce the entire structure with transverse insertion jumpers.

The wall frame is ready, we begin to mount the roof. The roof is shed, the slope is a continuation of the existing one, it is enough to correctly measure the width of the beams and add the thickness of the crate. You should also take into account the depth of the wave of the roofing material.

Roofing waterproofing must be laid under the crate. Sheets of corrugated board were used for the roof. Sufficiently good and not expensive material, in addition, it can be ordered to the required length and laid without additional.

In place of the overlap of two roofs, we glue an insulating tape so that there is no corrosion in this place during climatic changes.

We knock the box flush with the old one, paint it and set the ebb.

Installing the window.

The frame will be sheathed with OSB sheets 10 millimeters thick. Mineral wool 10 cm thick is used as a heater.

Let's move on to the frame.

Before sheathing a wall with a doorway, we hang the door. As a door frame, we decided to use rack beams, and the old door from a solid board. Of course, you could buy a front door, but ours turned out to be in pretty good condition, although it is over 40 years old, except for many layers of paint. Having hung the door on a pre-marked rack, we adjust the second in place and install the upper jumper. From the inside, along the perimeter of the closed door, we fasten a 2x4 cm rail, which will serve as a door quarter.

After we have completed the outer skin, we proceed to the inner one, having previously laid the mineral insulation.

The next step is to insulate the walls with foam plastic and finish them under the general view of the facade of the house. Since the house is plastered and painted, this option is the most optimal and not expensive.

The thickness of the foam is 5 centimeters, so as not to make door slopes, and then they can be damaged, we fasten a beam 5x5 cm along the perimeter of the doorway to the thickness of the foam.

The sheets were assembled in the following way. Mounting foam was applied to the sheet in dotted small parts.

The entire docking perimeter of the sheet was also foamed.

The sheet was pressed tightly and screwed with self-tapping screws with a plastic spacer. Thanks to the large number of videos featuring mature women and young girls with different hair colors and physiques, this will delight lovers of strawberries. To fully appreciate this, you can watch brown-haired porn, where girls, with their skillful actions, bring gentlemen to extreme exhaustion in a love game. You can choose to have sex in nature, or at home, as well as at work, which often happens!

This option for wall decoration was calculated initially. Red indicates that the joining of the existing wall and the new one is done in the same plane. To do this, initially the foundation with the wall was shifted by the thickness of the insulation.

Along the perimeter of the window, under the level, even factory edges of the foam were mounted with a whip on the frame.

We fill the void with mounting foam.

We install a window sill.

Before applying the reinforcing mesh, remove all excess of hardened foam.

We apply the first layer of a special reinforcing solution.

We put perforated corners with a grid on the corners.

We sheathe the doors on the inside with a sheet of OSB from the side of the facade with a leather substitute. The photo shows that the end of the sheet is burned, it was specially cut out by a grinder with an ordinary cutting wheel. With such a cut, there are no burrs and chips, the end face is perfectly smooth, it is enough to open it with varnish.

Over time, some private buildings require expansion for various reasons. For example, an increase in the number of people sitting, sewerage into the house, or the need to close the front door from direct cold. Therefore, there is a need for an additional room, expanding the kitchen, arranging a room for a bathroom, or simply building a veranda.

An extension to the house with your own hands can be made of wood, brick, or in a combined version, which includes several building materials.

Requirements for premises

In order not to have to make additional changes already in the attached room, it is better to immediately think through all the nuances of the extension, since each of them requires a special approach.

Extra room

If you want to add another living room to the house, you will have to try, since this work is almost tantamount to building a small house. The floors, walls and ceiling of the building must be well insulated, otherwise the heating provided to it will not be effective - this is one of the main conditions for a dwelling. The second important condition for normal living is the absence of dampness in the room, which means that reliable waterproofing is needed.

Kitchen or bathroom

When arranging these premises, before installing the foundation, engineering communications are brought to the construction site - in particular, sewer pipes. You may have to separately conduct and plumbing.

In addition, it is also worth paying attention to the insulation of all elements of the structure, to think about reliable waterproofing of the floor.

Veranda

A veranda is a light structure that serves mainly to protect the main entrance to the house from wind and rain, or is used for summer holidays. It can be closed, have a door and one or more windows, and may be and completely open, that is, it is a flooring, low walls and a roof raised on pillars.

This building does not require special insulation, but you still have to carry out waterproofing for the foundation.

Foundation for an extension

The foundation for an extension can be tape, lined with brick or stone blocks, or columnar. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages. To stop at one of them, you need to find out how each design is arranged, and choose the one that is more suitable for a particular extension.

Information about the construction of the foundation

Strip foundation

So, the strip foundation is arranged in the following sequence:

First you need to mark up and trace the place where the extension will be placed. This is done with a rope that is stretched across the terrain and secured with pegs.

Further along the markup, a trench is dug to the same depth as the foundation of his house is built. It would be nice to fix the reinforcement connecting the foundations of the main building and the extension before pouring concrete.
The width of the trench should be 100–150 mm greater than the planned wall thickness.
After the trench has been dug, it is further prepared. First, backfilling at the bottom of a sand cushion with a thickness of 100–120 mm is carried out. It must be carefully tamped.
The next layer is covered with crushed stone or broken brick, which is also compacted with a manual rammer.
Further along the entire perimeter, waterproofing is laid in the trench, which should extend to the soil surface by 40–50 cm, since it should close not only the inner part of the foundation, but also the formwork for its above-ground part.
A welded reinforcing structure is installed on the waterproofing film, which must repeat the shape of the foundation, and to its entire height.
Then the reinforcement is poured with a rough concrete mortar of cement and gravel, to ⅓ of the height of the trench, and after this layer has hardened, the next one is poured - to one second of the remaining height.

Installation of formwork for strip foundation

After pouring this layer, you can start building a wooden formwork to form the above-ground part of the foundation - the basement. The waterproofing film is left inside the formwork, straightened along its walls and fixed on top of them so that it does not slip into concrete.
Concrete is poured into the prepared formwork to the top. Then the solution is pierced in several places with a shovel so that no air cavities remain inside it. You can lightly tap on the formwork - this vibration will help the concrete to compact as much as possible.

After completing the pouring of the foundation, the concrete is leveled to the required level and left to dry, sprayed daily with water to harden.
After the final hardening of the concrete, the formwork is removed and the foundation is waterproofed from the outside.
Before starting the construction of walls, it is recommended to additionally cover the foundation with waterproofing compounds or roll materials. For this process, liquid rubber, tar, bituminous mastic and roofing material are used.

The space inside the strip foundation can also be equipped in different ways - with a concrete screed or flooring from floor beams and a log with a wooden floor on them.

Video - building an extension to a house on a strip foundation

Column Foundation

In addition to the strip foundation, a columnar foundation can be arranged, which is built from brick or concrete, as well as a combination of these materials. Basically, this option is used for the construction of verandas or additional living rooms, since communications associated with water supply or sanitation in an uninsulated or even open underground will require additional thermal insulation.

A columnar foundation is most often arranged if it is planned to mount a boardwalk.

The work is carried out in several stages:

The first step is marking the site selected for the extension. The pillars should be at a distance of one and a half meters from each other.

Pit pits are dug for each pillar separately. Their depth should be 500-600 mm, with a square side of 500 × 500 mm. To the top of the pit should expand somewhat - by about 100 mm on each side.

Installation diagram of the foundation pillar

Next, the bottom is strengthened in the same way as when constructing a strip foundation, using sand and gravel, waterproofing is laid.
If the pillars will be built of brick, it is recommended to lay a layer of coarse cement mortar on the bottom. Only after waiting for it to harden, they make brickwork.
If the pillars are concrete, a reinforcing structure and formwork are installed at the bottom of the pits to the height of the future pillar. The waterproofing film is allowed inside the formwork and fixed on top of it;
Concrete is poured into the formwork in layers. Each layer must set well before the next is poured;
The top of the column is well leveled and sprinkled daily with water until completely solidified;
After the pillars are ready, the formwork is removed from them and they waterproofed roofing material, which is glued to heated bituminous mastic.
In the gap remaining between the soil and the pillars, backfilling is done, tamping every 100-150 mm of the backfilled soil mixed with crushed stone.
Several layers of roofing material are laid on each of the pillars - it is necessary for waterproofing the wooden bars that will be laid on top of the pillars.

Extension floor base device

If a strip foundation is chosen, both a wooden and a concrete floor can be arranged on it. A columnar foundation without lintels suggests a wooden floor.

Concrete floor

To make a reliable and warm floor screed inside the strip foundation, you need do work step by step, adhering to a certain technology.

To begin with, excess soil is selected inside the finished strip foundation. It is first loosened and then removed to a depth of approximately 250-350 mm.
At the bottom of the resulting pit, a sandy ten-centimeter pillow is poured and compacted. Crushed stone can be laid on top of it, but instead of crushed stone, expanded clay is used to insulate the screed, poured in a layer of 15–20 cm.

Expanded clay is leveled, and a reinforcing grate is laid on it. After its installation, a beacon system is arranged from above along the selected horizontal level. Some rooms, such as a bathroom or an open terrace, may also require a certain slope of the surface for unhindered flow of water that has fallen on the floor to the drainage system.
Next, a cement mortar is laid out on the prepared surface and leveled using the rule. A day later, it can be covered with plastic wrap - then the concrete will mature more evenly, which will give it additional strength.

When the walls of the extension are erected, any decorative coating or a wooden floor can be laid on the resulting concrete base.

Floor on wooden beams

Floor beams are wooden bars of a sufficiently large thickness, about 150 × 100 mm in cross section. You can’t save on them, since the overall strength of the floor will depend on their reliability.

Beams are laid on poles or strip foundations, on top of the made roofing material substrate, and can be fixed to concrete in various ways - using through fasteners, corners and other metal devices. Between themselves, the beams at the intersections are also fastened with powerful corners.

They will hold securely, as the wooden flooring of the "black" and "white" floor also serves as a kind of binding fastener.

Video: erection of a frame extension with a wooden floor

Construction of extension walls

Brick or frame walls can be built on a ready-made strip foundation, while a columnar one is mainly used for frame buildings. If it is planned to make brickwork on the pillars, then additional concrete lintels will have to be made between the pillars.

Frame walls

The frame for future walls is erected from a bar and fixed to the crown beams of the ceiling that were mounted earlier. The beams can be attached to the beams separately, but sometimes it is much more convenient to assemble the wall elements in a horizontal position, on a flat area, and then install them in a vertical position already assembled.

To connect the frame to the wall of the house, perfectly accurate vertical markings are made on it, along which a separate bar or assembled frame element will be fixed.

For reliability, all the bars are interconnected by metal corners.

Having installed the entire frame of the extension, it is better to immediately sheathe it with boards or plywood (OSB) from the outside. Sheathing will immediately make the structure stiffer.

The upper horizontal beam, running along the house, is attached to the main wall using reliable metal corners or anchors.
The walls are insulated after the roof is installed.

Video: another example of building a light extension to the house

brick walls

Before you start building brick walls, you need to carefully check the horizontalness of the foundation surface and, if necessary, align it to the ideal. If the base is uneven, then the masonry may crack from deformation during shrinkage.
It should be noted that brick extensions are best done to also a brick house. To connect the extension with the main wall, during the construction of the walls, holes are drilled two-thirds of the depth, through every two to three rows of masonry. Reinforcement is embedded in them, which should protrude from the wall by about half a meter. It should be in the seams of the future masonry. So that the seams on these rows are not excessively wide, the reinforcement should not be chosen too thick, or it will be necessary to make a recess in the bricks of the row on which the reinforcement will be laid.
If a brick extension is arranged against a wooden wall, then a hole is drilled through it, into which reinforcement with a transverse stopper is installed from inside the house, which will hold it in the wall. Reinforcement is also installed as the wall is erected, every two or three rows.

Before starting laying, a twine is stretched along the future wall, along which it will be easy to control the horizontal rows, and the verticality is constantly verified with a plumb line.
The thickness of the walls will depend on what function the extension will perform. If this is a living room, then laying should be done, at least one or two bricks. If the room will play the role of a veranda or utility room, then half-brick laying will be enough.
Having built brick walls, they are tied around the top with a concrete belt. Formwork is made for it, a reinforcing structure is laid in it and poured with concrete mortar. After the solution has completely solidified, the formwork is removed from the belt, and you can proceed to the flooring device.

It should be noted that building brick walls is not as easy as it seems, therefore, if there is no experience in this work, it is better to entrust this process to a qualified bricklayer or choose a different type of wall.

Covering the extension and roofing

After the walls are erected, it is necessary to make a ceiling. For it you will need bars - beams, which are installed on the upper part of the walls, at a distance of 60-70 cm from each other, and fixed with special corners.

If the beams are laid on a brick building, they can be embedded in a concrete belt, after wrapping the edge of each of them with roofing material.

The next step is the filing of the beams with boards or thick plywood, on which a heater will be laid on top, between the beams.

The roof of the extension can have different designs, but basically a shed option is chosen, which is worth considering.

This design consists of rafters on which the roof is laid. This type of roof is arranged quite simply, the main thing is to choose the right slope angle. It must be at least 25 — 30 degrees - this is necessary so that precipitation does not linger on the surface in winter, otherwise they can simply damage it.
Having determined the slope angle, a mark is made on the wall or front part of the roof in the form of a horizontal flat line, along which the bar supporting the rafters in the upper part will be attached. The lower support for them will be the previously laid floor beams or the edge of the wall. The rafters must extend beyond the boundaries of the constructed walls by 250 — 300 mm, in order to protect the walls from rainwater as much as possible.
The rafters are also fixed with the help of metal corners.
It will be more difficult to solve the issue of the slope of the roof if the extension is installed on the side from which the slope of the main building of the house is arranged, since there will simply be nothing to fix the cross beam there. Therefore, you may have to remove several lower rows (sheets) of roofing material from the roof of the house in order to use its beams to secure the truss system and unify the overall coverage.
It is necessary to decide in advance which roof will be laid on top of the truss system. If it is a soft roof or flexible tiles, then solid material is laid and fixed on top of the rafters, for example, plywood or frequent transverse lathing.
If large canvases are fixed (roofing iron, metal tiles, slate, etc.), then they can be overlapped with directly installed rafters.
When the system under the covering material is ready, it is recommended to lay waterproofing on it. In the first case, plywood is covered with it, in the second, it is fixed to the rafters.
Roofing material is laid on top of the waterproofing material, starting from the bottom of the truss system and rising up. If it is necessary to combine the roof, then when docking, the top row of the roof of the extension is slipped under the last row of the roof slope of the main structure.
If the roof adjoins the upper part of the roof to the wall or the frontal part of the roof, then the joint between them must be waterproofed.
When the roof over the erected extension is ready, you can begin to insulate the walls and floor.

Prices for metal tiles

metal tile

Insulation of the extension from the inside

If the room is residential, then reliable thermal insulation is indispensable. If the ceiling is already sheathed and insulated, then you can proceed to the insulation of the floor.

Floor insulation on beams

If floor beams were installed on a columnar foundation for the floor, then the work proceeds as follows:

Transverse logs from smaller bars are fixed to the floor beams.
It is recommended to arrange a draft floor on the logs, in this case it is better to lay the boards for it with a continuous flooring, otherwise the heat from the house will be blown out.

Further, the entire rough coating is smeared with a sufficiently thick clay solution, and after drying, a vapor barrier film is laid on it.
Mineral wool is tightly laid between the logs, expanded clay or slag is poured.

From above, the insulation is again closed with a vapor barrier, and a wooden floor is laid on it from boards or plywood.
A decorative coating can be immediately laid on the plywood, or an infrared film floor can be arranged under it.