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Finished floor on floor slabs. High-quality floor installation on floor slabs

Floors laid on concrete floors can withstand high loads. That is why they quite often act as the main node of the structures of multi-storey buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make adjustments to the flooring process. To date, there are several technologies that can be used when laying the floor on a concrete floor. They will be discussed below.

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

The installation of a floor on a concrete slab may involve the use of technology when the surface is poured with mortar. It can be prepared using cement, sand and water. In some cases, a special mixture is used for this purpose. At the first stage, the plate is inspected for defects. This will let you know which areas should be given more attention. Apply a primer to the surface with a brush or roller. It is better to use a deep penetration compound.

After the base has dried, you can proceed to pouring the screed. Its layer should not be very thick. The task is to hide defects and level the surface. After a day, the screed will dry a little, at this moment it should be covered with a thick film. The canvases in this case should go on the walls by 15 cm.

How to make the floor level

Wooden slats or metal profiles are installed throughout the area, which will act as beacons. When the floor is laid on a concrete slab, the next step is to install a laser level in the corner of the room.

Its light beams will define the contour of the upper level of the floor. It is on this scale that the fine finish is carried out. Lighthouses should be located throughout the area. Strong threads are pulled from opposite walls, the fastening of which is carried out with self-tapping screws. Lighthouses can be fixed with a screed mortar or gypsum mixture.

Insulation of the floor and pouring the finishing layer

Do-it-yourself warming according to the described technology involves the use of expanded clay. It does not provide for the need for film protection, which distinguishes the material from porous thermal insulation. Then you can start laying the main screed. It should be dense, and its thickness usually varies from 5 to 15 cm.

To form a flat floor, a rule is used. It is laid on beacons and pulled over. The excess solution will be against the wall and fill in the bumps. After the solution dries, the beacons are removed, and the resulting gaps are filled with a solution. Finishing is carried out on a completely dry surface.

The choice of material for concrete floor insulation

A wide range of heaters are presented on the building materials market today. Among others, it is necessary to highlight mineral wool, which is moisture resistant, as well as environmentally friendly. With its help, floor sound insulation can also be made, because the material has a fibrous structure, so the layers do not let noise and heat through themselves.

Fibers do not absorb moisture, but mineral wool allows it to pass through, so during operation it may begin to rot. If you want to install a floor on a concrete slab with insulation, then mineral wool can only be used if the system assumes the presence of a lag. Additionally, in this case, vapor and waterproofing should be applied.

Use and foam glass

Extruded polystyrene foam and polystyrene are able to protect the house from heat loss. These materials provide vapor and moisture resistance, are highly rigid and do not deform if the concrete floor is insulated with the help of such canvases.

Among the shortcomings, one should highlight the ability to release toxic substances into the external environment and fragility. In the domestic market, a relatively new material is foam glass. It does not allow heat and moisture to pass through and conducts steam very well. Foam glass is environmentally friendly and durable. However, it is fragile, so its installation can only be carried out under a raised floor.

Features of concrete slab insulation

The device of the floor on a concrete slab may involve the laying of insulation. If the building is old and there is a coating on the floor, then it must be completely removed. The surface is leveled; for this, the cavities can be covered with expanded clay or other bulk material.

The next step is to lay down a skinny layer of screed, the purpose of which is to hold the bulk material in place. After the prepared layer gains strength, you can start laying waterproofing. For this, a plastic film or a waterproof membrane is suitable. The laying of the sheets must be overlapped, and the joints must be glued with adhesive tape. The material should be brought to the surface of the walls by 15 cm.

Work methodology

The device of the floor on a concrete slab at the next stage involves the installation of thermal insulation. When it was decided to use polyurethane foam as it, it is necessary to purchase material in the form of foam cylinders to spray on the prepared base. If you decide to choose foam, then it should be laid on a special glue. Waterproofing is spread on the insulation layer. The joints of the insulation material and the waterproof layer should not coincide.

The hydrobarrier is not strengthened, it should only be glued with adhesive tape. On the resulting "pie" you can lay a wet or semi-dry screed, which will act as a rough finish and the basis for a decorative coating. Additionally, you can protect the floor from the cold with a thin sheet of polyurethane foam, carpet or linoleum.

on concrete floor

If you decide to implement a wooden floor, then you may prefer a technology that involves the use of a log. Such designs are most often used in wooden houses or apartments. The advantages are undoubted, they are expressed in giving the floor noise and heat insulating properties. With the help of a log, any base can be leveled, while engineering communications are usually located under the floor in this case.

If you decide to resort to this particular flooring technology, then it is important to know if the opponents of this approach emphasize that such a procedure destroys the screed, and the junctions of the base and the lag form sound transmission bridges. Proponents of rigid fixation note that the deformation of wooden beams negates all efforts to repair.

In fact, soundproofing is a moot point. Rigid structures transmit sound, but to exclude such an effect, a heater with soundproofing properties is placed between the lags. If you nevertheless decide to resort to the technology of installing a wooden floor on a concrete floor, then at the first stage all debris is removed from the room, the cracks are rubbed, and the protrusions are knocked off.

penetrating compounds;
hydrophobic mastics;
roll materials;
thick film.

When the floor is being installed on a concrete slab in an apartment, it is necessary to stock up on fasteners and substrates to raise the log. When choosing a substrate, it is necessary to be guided by the recommendation that the material should be rigid. Over time, he should not sag in order to prevent the occurrence of play at the fulcrum. You can use pieces of plywood and thin boards for this. But by visiting a hardware store, you can purchase special plastic substrates.

Laying the log is carried out perpendicular to the sunlight falling from the window. The distance between the bars should depend on the thickness of the rough coating. The stronger and thicker the sheets, the farther apart the logs can be located. Usually this parameter varies from 40 to 50 cm. The extreme bars should be 3 cm away from the wall, everything else will depend on the width of the room.

System mount

After assembling the crate, the horizontal plane must be checked using the building level. Foamed polyethylene, linoleum or roofing material is placed under the supports. These materials will act as shock absorbers and provide additional waterproofing for the wood. After the lag system is ready, it remains to be fixed to the floor. Fasteners can be provided in one of three ways, these are:

anchor fastenings;
galvanized corners and dowels;
self-tapping screws.

Laying linoleum on concrete floor

The installation of a floor on a concrete foundation slab may involve the use of linoleum. At the first stage, the base is prepared, the quality of which will determine the service life of the finish coating. It is important to exclude depressions and protrusions that will help cause wear of linoleum. If the height differences exceed 2 mm per square meter, then the cavities are puttied, and the protrusions are eliminated by knocking down. After that, a new floor screed is performed, for this cement or concrete mortar is usually used, as well as bulk mixtures.

Before laying linoleum on a concrete floor, it is important to lay the film, and then the insulation material. When laying the finishing layer, the temperature in the room must not be lower than +18 °C, while the humidity should not exceed 68%.

On each side, when cutting linoleum, 10 cm should remain. If there are seams, then they must be placed in the direction of light from the windows, so they will be less noticeable. You can lay linoleum without gluing, using glue or mastic, as well as using adhesive tape. The most effective and time-consuming technology will be the use of glue or mastic. For large areas, this technique is the only correct one.

Choosing a laminate flooring

Must be selected by you before work begins. Natural materials can be used as it, which are produced in sheets or rolls. In this case, we are talking about a cork layer, which provides excellent sound and heat insulation. However, this material requires perfect alignment. Such a substrate for a laminate on a concrete floor must be laid on a dense polyethylene film, and the surface must first be vacuumed.

Among the artificial materials, Izolon should be singled out, which is a foamed polyethylene. It can have a foil surface that effectively reflects heat into the room. Additional sound insulation of the floor is also provided with the help of Poliform. This substrate is similar in characteristics to Izolon, but has a lower cost.

Instead of a conclusion: a warm floor on a concrete screed

Thermal insulation must be laid on the rough screed before laying the warm floor. As it is usually used cork substrate or polypropylene. At the next stage, a damper tape is laid, only after that it is possible to proceed with the installation of underfloor heating elements.

If the system is based on water pipes, then they are laid with a certain distance ranging from 10 to 30 cm. The pipes are fastened with fixing profiles, which are fixed to the surface with screws and dowels. When a warm floor is being installed on a concrete screed, the next step is to lay a metal mesh, only then it is worth starting to pour the screed. The temperature in the room during these works should be positive. Concreting must begin from the far corner of the room, ending the process at the door.

Floors on concrete slabs are able to withstand high loads. For this reason, most often they become part of the structures of multi-storey buildings. Laying slabs is a fairly simple task, but the characteristics of the material make some adjustments to the flooring process.

What should be considered when working with a concrete base?

Surface unevenness;
gaps between plates;
Pretty cool temperature.

Diagram of a concrete screed device with insulation

The device of the floor on the slab suggests the presence of several options. The simplest is pouring the screed. You can make it in several ways:

Mixing sand and cement (with the addition of water);
By preparing a special mixture.

The old-fashioned method is no longer very relevant today. Much better than the second option. Of course, the purchase of a dry mix will cost a little more, but the result of its use will be much better. The fact is that manufacturers put on the market improved formulations, which include plasticizers, polymers and other components that improve product quality.

Mounting process

First of all, you need to inspect the slab for defects in order to know which places will have to pay more attention when pouring the solution. After that, a primer is applied to it (with a roller or brush).

Important! It is best to use a deep penetration primer. When the surface is dry, you should go to the screed. The layer should not be very thick. Its task is to hide defects and slightly level the surface. Somewhere in a day, the screed will dry out and it can be covered with a film. Polyethylene will play the role of a vapor and water insulator. The film should cover not only the floor, but also at least 15 centimeters of the wall.

After that, metal profiles or wooden slats are exposed over the entire area. The so-called beacons are installed in the same horizontal plane.

How to install a beacon?

Installation of beacons from an aluminum profile according to the level

In the corner of the room, near the stove itself, set the laser level. When the light rays mark a contour on the walls, make sure that they exactly repeat the level of the floor, along which you will need to carry out a fine finish.
It is necessary to install beacons over the entire area (along the contour) at a distance slightly less than the length of the rule, which will align the screed. Previously, strong threads are pulled from opposite walls. They are attached to self-tapping screws. Lighthouses are fixed with a plaster or screed solution.

Final steps

An example of pouring a screed and leveling the mortar along the beacons

Having installed the beacons, you can proceed to laying the insulation. There are no restrictions on the choice of material, but expanded clay will be the most optimal. It does not need to be protected with a film, unlike porous heaters. Then comes the turn of the main screed. It must be dense, and also have a thickness that can withstand heavy loads (5-15 cm).

Important! To make a flat floor, you need to use the rule. It should be laid on the beacons and pulled towards you. As a result, the excess solution will shrink to the wall and fill in the bumps.

The floor will dry in a few days. Then it will be possible to remove the beacons and fill the gaps. Finishing is recommended only on a completely dry surface.

Making a wooden floor

Wooden floor and now the most popular in private homes. Its installation is not particularly difficult. You need to start the device with the elimination of base defects. The usual solution based on cement will do. They close up cracks, chips, seams between the plates.

Then, with the help of a laser level, a contour is determined, along which a finished surface is eventually exposed, and the turn comes to create a general design.

Main works

Installation of wooden logs for a plank floor

The floor is covered with waterproofing material, as indicated at the beginning. Then the lags are mounted. They are installed in the same horizontal plane.

Important! The logs are fixed perpendicular to the boards, and the boards are fixed perpendicular to the wall with a window.

There are several options:

Using long self-tapping screws, the logs are cut through and fixed to the floor. Holes in the plate are made in advance. Plastic dowels are necessarily inserted into them.
Along the edges of the lag, you can install supports made from wooden slats or pieces of lag. The supports are attached to the floor, the logs are laid between them.
The modern way is to install a log on lifting devices.

Final steps

Diagram of a plank floor with insulation

After installing and fixing the lag, you should do the floor insulation. Insulation is laid in the interlag space. The type of material used is not important, its thickness is important. In the process of installing wooden floors, the main thing is not to forget to leave a gap between the clean coating and the insulation. It will become ventilation, which will remove excess moisture and increase the life of the coating and thermal insulation materials.

Now it remains to cover the surface with polyethylene and proceed to the final step - laying the boards.

Water floor device

Before proceeding to the installation of warm water floors, you need to deal with their thermal insulation. For this case, foil insulation is best suited. It is covered with a reinforcing mesh. After that, you can already lay out pipes for water heating. They are fixed to the grid with plastic clamps.

Important! For greater reliability, a reinforcing mesh is also laid on top of the structure.

To protect the expansion joints, pipes are laid out along the walls (corrugated ones are suitable). It will be possible to proceed to concrete pouring after hydraulic testing. The water system is checked for faults during the day. All detected problems are promptly corrected.

Scheme of a screed device with a water-heated floor

To make the finishing screed of a warm water floor, you need to use a cement mortar. The thickness of the layer should be within 5-15 cm. After a day or two, it will dry, after which it will be possible to proceed to the direct operation of the warm floor. Raise the temperature gradually.

This method of arranging warm water floors is relevant not only if the floor slab acts as the basis, but also the concrete floor on the ground. The water floor is great for both home and apartment. It is warm, durable, protects against moisture and mold.

Laying self-leveling floors

To make the self-leveling floor the main coating, you need to start by priming the base. Epoxy or polyurethane primer is applied in two layers (only from one mixture). The front layer is applied exclusively to the decorated coating. Photo printing looks especially impressive on the surface. It is made on a special film, and a transparent self-leveling floor is laid on top.

Laying technology

The process of installing self-leveling floors begins with a standard procedure - cleaning the surface from dust and dirt. Next, a primer is applied. After it dries along the vertical surfaces that will be in contact with the self-leveling floor, a damper tape is glued around the perimeter. It protects the bulk base from cracking.

Then comes the turn of applying the self-leveling floor solution. It must be done, clearly following the instructions, using an electric mixer at low speeds.

Laying a self-leveling floor on a concrete base

Important! To get a homogeneous composition, you need to stir the mixture according to the principle: stir-stop. The duration of the action-inactivity should be the same and not exceed 5 minutes.

The finished solution is poured onto the surface and spread with a roller or spatula, and air bubbles are removed with a spiked roller. The thickness of the fill should be at least 3 cm. Now you need to wait until the coating hardens.

Important! Direct sunlight and drafts have a negative effect on uncured material.

The thickness of the surface also affects the time of complete drying of the surface. Hardening times are indicated on the packaging of the dry mix. As a rule, work on laying ceramic tiles begins after three days, and the installation of parquet - after a week.

The role of OSB in flooring

Laying OSB or plywood for leveling the floor

OSB or OSB is used to achieve one or all of 3 objectives:

To level the floor and hide defects.
To ensure good sound insulation. The multi-layer structure successfully absorbs noise.
To insulate the floor and make high-quality waterproofing. The material on a natural basis is characterized by increased moisture resistance and perfectly saves heat.

Features of the use of the material

OSB (OSB) are not always fixed to the floor. If the concrete base has large height differences or significant irregularities, the slabs are fixed on wooden beams. The latter successfully act as a lag.

Important! OSB (OSB)-plates with a thickness of 10 mm provide maximum resistance to deformation. They are laid in two layers (with offset). Fastening parts of the material is carried out using glue or spiral nails.

OSB (OSB) is laid on a relatively flat surface without using a log. The thickness of one plate is often enough to level the surface. OSB (OSB) is fixed with dowels or self-tapping screws.

The material is highly moisture resistant, but still absorbs a small amount of moisture. Because of this, it expands a little. Compression-expansion can be compensated by leaving gaps between OSB (OSB) boards (up to 3 mm).

After laying the material, finishing work can begin. Although, it is not necessary to use tiles, laminate or linoleum. OSB (OSB) - the material itself is considered a presentable warm coating for the home. It just needs to be cleaned and covered with several layers of varnish.

Important! When planning the laying of roll material, create a smooth transition at the joints of the plates. To ensure it, you need to use OSB (OSB) of minimum thickness. Gaps from the wall are treated with sealant.

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Floor slab installation

At first glance, the construction of a floor on a concrete base does not represent anything complicated.

However, for the correct installation technology, it is necessary to take into account many factors that in one way or another can affect its service life.

This is a multilayer structural element of the house, which is subjected to numerous loads and environmental influences, therefore, the design of work must be treated with due attention and responsibility.

Technological requirements

The correct arrangement of the floor on a concrete slab is carried out in accordance with building requirements and standards. They characterize the design features of all elements.

In addition, they must meet the standard requirements specific to this situation: be durable, moisture resistant, wear-resistant.

When making a floor for a living space, you need to think about heat and sound insulation in advance. If we talk about standard technological requirements, we can distinguish a number of norms that are characteristic of this situation.

FeatureName, technical conditionShort description

GOST 31358 - 2007	Dry construction floor mix on a cement basis	Properties and compositions of the cement mixture. floor use
GOST 10178 - 85	Cement	Technical features and requirements for the material used for the screed
GOST 25328 - 82	Mortar Cement	Regulatory data regarding the composition and characteristics of the mixture
GOST 24640 - 91	Additive for cement	Type and method of use of the additive used for pouring floors
GOST 7473 - 94	concrete mix	Compositions, manufacturing technology and use of a concrete-based mixture
SNiP 2.03.01-84	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure	Installation of reinforced concrete structures, floor screeds with reinforcement
SNiP 3.02.01-87	Earthwork foundation and foundation	Subfloor installation process
SP 52 - 101 - 2003	Concrete and reinforced concrete structure without reinforcement prestressing	Concrete reinforcement process
SNiP 2.03.13-88	floors	Structural floor solution, installation requirements

Design, material selection and installation must be carried out in accordance with the requirements presented in these documents. Compliance with the standards will allow you to create a surface that will meet all the established parameters.

Among other things, it will have the following characteristics:

A smooth and solid base will be created, convenient and practical for the safe movement of people.
It will be of high quality, wear-resistant, durable.
According to the sanitary and epidemiological standards, the foundation will be created harmless to humans and providing good living conditions.
The operational standard characterizes the ease of maintenance and possible repair.

All documents were developed by specialists and engineers, so it is not recommended to neglect them.

Classification

Floors consisting of screed, insulation and flooring are called separate

A complete analysis of the element allows you to select several categories of floors, divided by purpose. These are industrial buildings, residential buildings, public institutions and livestock buildings.

There are several other distinguishing features, first of all, the division into types: monolithic, rolled and piece. Analysis of the installation site is divided depending on the location: above the heated room, floor construction on the ground, on the interfloor ceiling.

Regarding sanitary standards, there are 3 types of floor installation:

single-layer, made of a material corresponding to GOST for heat loss and sound transmission;
separate structure, made of a separate layer of sound insulation, screed and top coat;
hollow, is carried out along the logs (cuts) with the laying of heat and sound insulation between them.

To understand how to make a good floor, subject to numerous requirements, is possible only after fully familiarizing yourself with the standards.

Characteristics of the concrete base

Faced with the question of which floor is better, many come to the conclusion that the concrete base is one of the most unpretentious.

It is superior to wood for many reasons, the main of which is immunity to the formation of decay processes.

In addition, concrete does not creak from time to time, has a sufficiently strong surface, which is practically not afraid of mechanical stress.

Moisture resistance indicators compared to wood are also on top. However, it should be borne in mind that some of the disadvantages of a wooden floor can be eliminated using modern technology.

Do not exalt the concrete surface and forget about its disadvantages. You can get rid of a constantly cold floor only after installing an additional source of its heating (warm floor). Based on this, the best option would be to lay tiles directly on the concrete in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen. For residential premises, living rooms, it is recommended to use other materials with inherent warmth and comfort.

Wood flooring

Boards can be glued to concrete or laid on wooden logs.

To lay a tree on a concrete base, you can use one of 3 methods.

Each of them is rationally different from the previous one, which allows us to talk about different advantages and disadvantages.

The methods are as follows:

boards are glued to the concrete base;
stacked on wooden logs;
laid on plywood sheets.

All methods of flooring on a concrete slab have one thing in common - surface preparation is carried out identically, regardless of further actions.

The screed must be thoroughly dried and leveled.

Convex areas can be removed by grinding with a grinder, cavities are filled with a self-leveling mixture.

After that, it is recommended to prepare the base for laying communications passing under the floor. These can be elements of underfloor heating, a sewerage pipeline, a water supply system, an electric, television or Internet cable.

Incisions can be made with a grinder

When processing a room with an area of more than 50 m2, it is desirable to make seams that limit the deformation of the slab. In this case, using a grinder with a diamond wheel, several cuts are made. Only after this is it possible to cover the base with a primer.

The antiseptic will act as a waterproofing and protect the base from the formation of mold or fungal growths on the wooden elements. The most optimal impregnation option is a one-component primer mixture. After making sure that the concrete is completely dry, you can start laying the floor.

The moisture content of the base plate must not exceed 4%.

gluing

Glue a wide board with a polyurethane compound

Glued floor construction is considered the most common method of installing wood on concrete substrates. For this, various types of compositions are used, which differ depending on the type of board.

Wide solid is glued with a modified elastic one-component polyurethane adhesive. A narrow solid or engineered board is fixed to a two-component polyurethane composition.

The order of work is as follows:

Boards are cut to size.
The adhesive composition is applied from the far corner of the room to the near one, the distribution over the surface is carried out using a notched trowel.
3 - 4 boards are superimposed on this area and firmly fixed. At the same time, they should be pressed tightly against each other, this can be done with a tie-down strap or wedges.
After checking the stacked row, the procedure is performed in the previously described way. For more information on how to glue the finishing material to the floor, see this video:

The distance between the edge board and the wall should be at least 10 - 15 mm.

Laying on logs

Logs should be no thinner than 2 cm

Such a device involves the installation of boards on wooden logs, firmly fixed on a concrete base. This method can only be used if their thickness is more than 20 mm. Otherwise, they will sag under load.

It is allowed to distribute the beam on the surface according to the approved parameters, depending on the thickness of the board. To determine this value yourself, you can be guided by the table below.

The cross section of the log in this situation does not play a role, since their installation is carried out on a solid surface.

Boards are fixed with screws

Only after all calculations are completed, and the material is purchased and cut to the desired size, you can proceed with self-assembly.

At the same time, do not forget to treat all wooden structural elements with an antiseptic that protects it from moisture and fungus.

The order of work is to perform the following actions:

The design feature lies in the greater cost and the ability to place thermal insulation under the floor, hide communications there.

On plywood

It is recommended to lay plywood diagonally

For laying a wooden floor on a concrete slab, sheets of plywood or OSB with a thickness of 16 - 20 mm are used.

The material must be moisture resistant. Purchased plates are cut into small strips 50 - 80 cm wide.

Laying is carried out in a diagonal direction to the location of the coating. The gaps between them should not exceed 3 mm. The strips are glued with glue or fixed on the dowel nails. After installation, the surface is carefully polished and cleaned of dust.

It is important that the plywood is not too thin

The advantage of this method is the possibility of leveling the surface with height differences of up to 1 cm. The method of laying on plywood is considered the simplest and most inexpensive.

However, when performing installation, you need to consider several features. First of all, this is the thickness of the sheets, which must correspond to the size of the boards located on top. In addition, mandatory primer treatment and thorough cleaning.

The advantage over the method using a log is that the height of the ceilings of the room practically does not change.

Sometimes there are opinions of ignorant people that flooring on a concrete slab is a rather complicated, expensive and troublesome task. In fact, this is far from the case.

A wide selection of modern building and finishing materials allows you to solve this problem in a short period of time. At the same time, the coating will be quite warm and durable, although it will be located on a cold concrete slab. For information on how to properly mount plywood sheets on logs, see this video:

The only thing that is required of you in this situation is the exact observance of technological requirements and standards related to the various characteristic properties of the building materials used to perform the work.

gurupola.ru

Floor installation on a concrete slab - the best technologies and manufacturing methods

From the Author: Greetings, dear reader! Sooner or later, we all face repairs in the hope of making our home the most comfortable and beautiful, because the house is our fortress. This is the place where we can be alone with ourselves, and where we feel protected. As soon as we start thinking about repairs, we begin to look at the prices of materials and services, and literally immediately we understand that we can’t save much on the material, but we can refuse the services of builders by doing repairs ourselves. One of the upcoming operations is the laying of floors, and it is vital for you to know how the floor is laid on a concrete slab, otherwise problems with repairs will definitely not be avoided.

Types of floors and their designs

To begin with, let's figure out what technologies for making concrete floors generally exist, since not all of them are suitable for installation in an apartment or house. Some of them may not meet your needs or hurt your budget. So, the following types of floor technologies are distinguished:

on concrete slabs;
on the ground;
wooden on concrete slabs;
concrete with a wooden base;
concrete for industrial buildings;
from fiber-reinforced concrete;
warm (if you want to know how to make it, take a look here).

Now you will understand which one is needed for what, how it is made, and what are its advantages and disadvantages.

Floors on concrete floors

This type of flooring is the most common, since most urban residents live in apartments, and all floors of apartment buildings are made exclusively using reinforced concrete slabs. Any floor can be made on them, whether it is wooden or warm, floating or with inexpensive linoleum.

Floor slabs are a universal base - they are strong, able to withstand enormous loads and be used for many years in the most severe conditions, without losing their strength properties. But no matter what coating we lay, it is worth remembering the necessary sequence of actions in laying the various layers. In any case, the manufacture of wooden floors on concrete floors is as follows:

Substrate preparation, cleaning or screed.
Marking the lag installation and applying special glue to the surface.
Laying the log strictly horizontally, using a hydraulic level or a conventional level.
Laying a waterproofing layer over the log.
Laying insulation between the lags.
Placement of the draft layer, whether it be a board, plywood or chipboard.
Vapor barrier layer.
Substrate.
Finishing coating, laminate or parquet, or boards.

The manufacture of a concrete base takes much less time than a wooden one, but its properties are completely different. Such floors have extremely high strength in comparison with any other type of floor, are not subject to destruction and aging. This floor is static, its thermal expansions are so slow and insignificant that any finished coating on it does not experience any deformation loads and can serve for a very long time. With proper arrangement, it serves as an excellent barrier to heat loss, and in an emergency, such as a flood, it will not allow water to penetrate to neighbors.

Of the minuses, the following can be distinguished. Low heat capacity, i.e., poor ability to retain heat in itself - therefore, such a floor without a finishing coating will almost always be cold, unless it is made using underfloor heating technology. He is very heavy. It has a serious load on the supporting structures and the foundation, so if this is a private house, and even with floating soil, you should refrain from such a floor.

Now let's look at the sequence of work. It consists of the following steps:

Surface preparation.
Primer with deep penetration compounds.
Laying rolled waterproofing or applying liquid formulations with the same properties.
Installation of a reinforcing cage, or the use of basalt fiber. In the case of reinforcement with cell layers, we bind or weld them and lay them on pieces of brick so as to move them away from the surface (so that when pouring the screed, the mesh is in the middle).
Installation of beacons. They lay down on a solid strip of cement mortar with a small addition of alabaster - this “slide” is laid on top of the reinforcing cage, but in such a way that it does not catch on.
Preparation of a solution using plasticizers or several caps of shampoo.
Pouring the solution, pulling the screed.
Laying vapor barrier, underlayment and finishing coat.

Floors on the ground

This coating is typical for newly erected buildings. The floor on the ground must meet many criteria - after all, it is the main barrier from the earth, which constantly strives to destroy it, saturate it with moisture and take away heat.

To prevent the harmful effects of these factors, multi-layer laying technology is used. Ground work is carried out as follows and in this order:

If we have soft ground at the base, cut off the top layer, about 20–30 cm.
The resulting layer of earth is rammed with a special metal chock or press.
We lay a pillow of sand mixed with crushed stone on the rammed earth. The layer should be about 10-15 cm.
We lay the damper tape made of foamed polyurethane.
Next, fill in the draft layer of the screed, it is possible without reinforcement and beacons. Fill with a layer of about 5-15 cm.
We lay a layer of polyethylene or roofing material for waterproofing.
Then we lay a layer of insulating material. It is best to use foam or polystyrene foam.
We lay the reinforcing mesh on islands of brick to create a gap and position the reinforcement in the middle of the screed layer.
Installing beacons.
Install damper tape.
We fill in the finishing layer of the screed.
We lay the vapor barrier, the substrate and any finishing coating.

As you can see, there is nothing complicated in making a floor with your own hands, and you are able to do it all yourself in a short period of time. All that will stop you is the drying time of the layers.

Source: http://mrpol.su

First, the ground on which the pillow will be laid must be dry. If it is wet, wait until it dries or dry it using specialized diesel infrared guns that will effectively cope with this task.

The rough layer of the screed should dry completely - on average, it takes 20-25 days, and in climates with high humidity - 28-30 days. The final layer of the screed should be thinner, no more than 5 cm. It also dries from 20–25 days.

In order for this layer to turn out to be of high quality, it must be covered with a film immediately after pouring. For uniform drying, it is abundantly moistened twice in 24 hours, and then covered with plastic wrap for 3-4 days to evenly distribute moisture. Then the film is removed and left for 20–25 days to dry completely.

This method is effectively used to make the floor in a private house, since usually only there is it necessary to pour the screed onto the ground. This concludes the discussion of making a screed on the ground with our own hands, and now let's move on to the next type.

Floors with basalt fiber

A novelty in the building materials market. Appeared not so long ago, about seven years ago, but did not receive much distribution. Basalt fiber is an extremely strong fiber with an amazing property to resist tearing. It is a fiber, most often white in color, only 5-7 cm in length, which are supplied in bags.

The manufacturing technology of concrete screed with basalt fiber is as follows. Exactly the same operations are performed as when pouring a conventional screed, but with one cardinal difference. We do not put reinforcing cages and rods into the base, but instead add basalt fibers directly to the solution, in the proportion indicated on the package, and mix. After hardening, the fibers bind the entire canvas with thousands of threads, which give the structure incredible strength and flexibility.

This method is rarely used in home construction, but almost all industrial facilities are built in this way. In cases where support beams or stiffeners are being erected, the methods are combined, that is, both reinforcement and basalt are used to obtain heavy-duty structures.

Floors with wooden base

To understand what it is to make concrete floors on a wooden base, watch this video very carefully. Or you will definitely achieve the destruction of the entire structure. No, we don't scare you, we just try to warn you.

The fact is that wood and metal are materials with completely different nature, structure and properties. The tree is never static, it is always moving. Its dynamics is determined by humidity, temperature, degree of drying. It is forbidden to pour the screed on the tree at all if the tree is fresh - only after a 3-year period!

Under the influence of the same temperature, these materials expand in different ways, so they need to be combined so that they are completely independent of each other. For this, an ordinary plastic film is used - concrete does not stick to it at all and seems to slide while the tree moves.

The whole process should be performed in the following sequence:

We remove the boardwalk and revise all the logs in order to remove damaged and rotten ones, otherwise the wooden floor may not withstand the load. A concrete slab 5 cm thick and 1 m2 in area weighs about 300 kg.
We restore the flooring and treat the wood with an antiseptic and a primer.
We lay down the plastic film.
We lay reinforcement or use fiber-reinforced concrete.
Install damper tape.
Place beacons.
We fill the screed.

As a result, we get two coatings that exist absolutely separately from each other. This design is rarely used in practice, but sometimes it is essential. No matter how complex it is, it has all the properties of a full-fledged concrete base and the thermal characteristics of a wooden floor.

Floors in industrial buildings

If there is a need to produce specific floors with increased strength and improved performance, then you need to learn about the manufacture of floors in an industrial building.

Such a coating is poured in the same way as all screeds. We use waterproofing, damper tape, reinforcement, basalt fiber. But there are several critical differences. In industrial buildings, depending on the purpose, either a simple screed or a screed with iron is made. Depending on the expected load, the layer thickness increases from 5 cm, as in civil buildings, to 20 cm for industrial facilities.

Reinforcement is laid without fail, and in two stages. The first is the bottom reinforcement, the second is the top. The floor is poured in such a way that the reinforcing cage is 5 cm from the bottom and 5 cm from the top of the screed, because the coating can work not only in tension under heavy weight, but also in compression, and each of the reinforcement belt must extinguish these efforts.

And most importantly, any industrial screed should be made only with the help of vibration machines. These are special installations that cause the solution layer to compact under the action of vibration and fill all the voids more thoroughly. In this way, excellent coating qualities can be achieved.

Well, dear reader, here you have learned everything you could about what flooring devices are and how to make them. There are, of course, specific schemes - for example, the manufacture of a concrete screed in a bathhouse, but they differ only in the presence of drains and drainage pits, and are made according to exactly the same principles as everyone else. Now, with this information, you can easily equip the floor for any purpose. Good luck and see you soon!

seberemont.com

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs

A high-quality floor arrangement on floor slabs implies a comfortable living for people in the room.

Scheme of the device wood-chip floor.

Classification of floors is made by types of coatings:

boardwalks;
parquet;
linoleum;
slab.

And by type of structure:

layered;
single layer;
separate hollow;
separate voidless.

Required tool:

Scheme of overlapping over a ventilated underground.

grinder;
plane;
a hammer;
trowel;
cord;
rule;
saw;
fasteners;
screwdriver;
roulette.

Layered floor device

Mainly used in interfloor ceilings. They are made from several layers above colder rooms (basements, garages). A soundproofing layer is laid on the floor slabs, and on it a hard floor covering - piece parquet or parquet panels. For sound insulation, fiberboard grades 4, 12, 20 are used.

Single layer construction

Such a floor is made directly on the floor slabs. If irregularities are found, a leveling layer must be made. The material for the construction of a single-layer floor can be bio-resistant linoleum, which is not subject to decay processes. In rooms with high humidity (toilet, bath), a single-layer floor can be made of ceramic tiles or rubber-based linoleum.

Installation of a separate hollow core

Diagram of a soundproof floor.

First, a soundproof layer is laid on the floor slabs, then the logs are strengthened, and the clean floor material is laid on them: parquet boards, tongue-and-groove boards or wooden shields. If a solid flooring is made of unplaned boards in the room, then fiberboard boards are laid on top, the thickness of which must be at least 20 mm. Logs for the construction of a separate hollow floor on floor slabs must be planed and treated with an antiseptic. The dimensions of the bars (lag) are 80 * 40 mm. Depending on the thickness of the flooring, the distance between the lags is determined. The thinner the material, the more often the bars are laid.

The device of a separate voidless floor

Scheme of self-laying floorboards.

It is built on the basis of a monolithic screed made on floor slabs. The screed is made from a mixture of concrete and porous aggregate class B12.5 with a density grade D1200, the thickness of the screed should be no more than 40 mm. It cannot be leveled with cement mortar, the irregularities should simply be sanded. A gap of 20-30 mm is made between the monolithic screed and the walls of the room along the perimeter, which is filled with soundproofing material and subsequently closed with a plinth.

The external covering of such a floor can be linoleum, PVC tiles, parquet, laminate parquet, fiberboards or other materials. A layer of waterproofing material is placed on top of the screed. It is overlapped or the joints are coated with bituminous mortar. Then they put a layer of sound insulation from mineral wool grade 125-150 up to 60 mm thick, fiberboard plates up to 50 mm thick, sand or expanded clay.

Parquet flooring

Floor plan.

Beautiful appearance, low thermal insulation and soundproofing make parquet (parquet boards, parquet boards, block parquet) a popular material in the construction of floors on ceilings. The device of such a floor is possible on a solid plank base, fiberboard slabs, cement-sand screeds. The floors made of piece parquet, made with a herringbone pattern with or without friezes, look good.

First you need to mark the rows of the coating so that there is less waste. A layer of glassine is laid on the prepared base, and a beacon "Christmas tree" is laid on it. Focusing on it, a floor covering is made with careful connection and fastening of each parquet plank with forty nails, two driven into the side groove and one into the end groove. With a doboynik deepen the caps into the material.

The device of floors from a piece parquet on couplers is made on a hot or cold solution of bitumen in "christmas tree" without friezes. When laying parquet, if necessary, level it with a special parquet-planing machine or a manual planer; after the guard, skirting boards are installed, the floor is scraped and polished. The floor is slightly moistened before scraping. The laid parquet is rubbed with mastic or varnish.

Linoleum floors

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor.

Linoleum is a material used for flooring. It has such qualities as strength, durability, resistance to chemicals, elasticity; it is easy to clean and wash. For all these qualities, the material is very popular with developers. The disadvantages include susceptibility to deformation - expansion, shrinkage, warping and swelling. To prevent their appearance, linoleum is preliminarily kept in a rolled state for several days to straighten and take the shape of the floor.

The quality of the base for the flooring significantly affects the quality of the linoleum floor. Possessing elasticity, linoleum is able to perceive even the slightest irregularities. Therefore, the ground must be level, clean, dry and solid. The horizontalness of the base must be checked with a special rail. The bases for linoleum can be screeds made of cement-sand mortar, fiberboard boards, chipboard boards, cinder-block, expanded clay concrete and plank floors.

To install a new screed on the floor slabs, a 3: 1 sand-cement mortar is made, which is laid on a hard and durable preparation with a layer of up to 3 cm and leveled with a rule or a trowel along pre-installed guide rails. The surface of the previously made screeds must be clean and even. If necessary, the screed can be leveled by laying a new layer of cement-sand mixture with a ratio of 1: 2. Permissible humidity of the base - no more than 10%.

The most time-consuming process is considered to be the process of preparing the bases for sticking linoleum on plank floors made on floor slabs.

Scheme of soundproofing floors.

They must be tough enough. The base boards must not sag. Before sticking linoleum, the base of the floor must be well processed: the lumber must be dry, planed, treated with an antiseptic or drying oil. All cracks must be puttied, cleaned and primed.

When constructing a base made of fiberboard or chipboard, it is also necessary to ensure the rigidity of the base under the slabs with mandatory grouting between them. The slabs are screwed to the wooden base of the floor with screws, their caps are well recessed in the material, and the slabs are glued to the concrete or cement-sand screed with hot bitumen. The surface of the fixed plates is leveled by cutting off the bumps, sealing the seams with mastic, primer and puttying with oil putty. Then linoleum is laid.

Floors made of ceramic tiles

To install the floor on the floor slabs of ceramic tiles, first a base is made - a monolithic cement screed with the addition of sand (approximate composition 3: 1; 4: 1), the installation of which is carried out along the waterproofing layer. When installing a floor on a wooden base, it is necessary to stick waterproofing on the flooring with hot bituminous mastic, then put a reinforced mesh and put a mortar over it. For the screed device, beacon wooden slats should be used, installed in level along the walls of the room. Put the prepared solution between the slats. The horizontality of the screed is checked by the rule, the ends of which must rest on the beacon rails. After the solution has hardened, the slats are removed. The remaining grooves are filled with mortar.

Scheme of overlapping and floor insulation.

Before laying the tiles, they must be sorted by size and color. Make a breakdown of the floor according to the selected pattern of the future coating, after which you should check the squareness of the room with a cord, stretching it diagonally from corner to corner, and then determine the width of the frieze and lay two mutually perpendicular rows according to the pattern dry. The distance between the tiles when laying them should be no more than 2 mm.

If the tiles do not fit completely, they can be cut and laid in a row closer to the wall. According to the marks made on the clean floor, beacon tiles are laid. Then, along the cord and ruler, corner, intermediate and frieze beacons are installed. On the prepared solution, the seal is made and the first row of tiles is laid. After laying the frieze rows, they begin to lay the tiles of the main pattern of the floor covering. In order not to step on already laid tiles, their flooring starts from the far wall.

The applied mortar must be of a plastic consistency, and it is advisable to lay it in an even strip on several rows of tiles at once. Having laid the tile on the mortar, it should be slightly precipitated with light blows of a trowel or hammer on the bar laid on top. Checking the horizontality of the laid tiles is carried out by the rule. The seams between them must be free from mortar. Two days after laying the tiles, they are filled with a creamy solution of cement in water, having previously cleaned the surface. The infusion is performed 2-3 times, as the solution shrinks. The remains of the solution are removed from the surface immediately after completion of work by wiping the tiles with moistened sawdust. Fill the laid tiles with moistened sawdust in a layer of 15-20 cm, and, periodically moistening them, achieve good hardening of the solution.

http://youtu.be/wz6Z7lBcYRg

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Modern building material for flooring on floor slabs is laminated parquet. This is an environmentally friendly coating, reminiscent of wooden parquet, which consists of several layers and is very convenient to use. It is made of dense, water-resistant fiberboards, covered with a layer imitating wood. Plank dimensions: length - 1.2-1.7 m, width - up to 18 cm, thickness - from 6 to 14 mm. Laminate planks are top coated with acrylate or melamine resin to protect against mechanical damage.

Consumption ecology. Manor: One of the most important structural components of any building is the floor system - not the final decorative coating, but the whole "pie", consisting of several layers. There are several types of floors that differ in the raw material base, manufacturing method and characteristics.

One of the most important structural components of any building is the floor system.- not a finishing decorative coating, but the whole “pie”, consisting of several layers. There are several types of floors that differ in the raw material base, manufacturing method and characteristics.

Everyone who is faced with a construction or major reconstruction makes a choice in favor of one of the systems, based on their capabilities, preferences and building parameters. It is convenient that some designs involve the simultaneous creation of an underfloor heating circuit - the only one or an additional one. Consider the main floor systems

floors on the ground
floors on joists
floors on reinforced concrete slabs

Floors on the ground

Monolithic floor - a multi-layer structure, arranged directly on the ground inside the perimeter of the foundation, a type of concrete screed.

The system consists of the following layers:

Packed soil- depending on the level, the earth is sprinkled or, on the contrary, extra centimeters are removed. The more carefully the surface is rammed and leveled, the stronger and more reliable the screed will be.

bedding- most often used sand. If a thick layer is needed due to the height of the “pie”, it is recommended to backfill in several approaches with tamping of each layer (10-15 cm each). In order to maximally compact the soil and bedding, a layer of coarse gravel is poured and compacted over the sand. It is also possible to use a common layer of ASG instead of separate layers of sand and crushed stone, tamping is required regardless of the type of backfill. A vibrating plate, in several approaches with a change in the direction of movement, is the best friend of floors on the ground.

Rough screed - a layer of concrete a few centimeters without reinforcement. It is relevant with strong groundwater pressure and when creating in-depth structures - in basements, basements. A bituminous waterproofing is welded over the screed, sealing the surface and requiring a flat, rigid base. If we are talking about ordinary floors on the ground and there are no problems with waterlogging, this layer is dispensed with.

Waterproofing- cuts off moisture that will come from below, various materials are used, but in most cases it is a thick film (from 150 microns), overlapped with a margin (15-20 cm), in one or two layers. The joints are glued with adhesive tape for tightness, 20 cm of film is put on the walls.

insulation- for the insulation of the floor, slab materials (PSB-25 or EPPS, with a thickness of 100 mm or more) are used, which are laid end-to-end over the waterproofing. When using extruded polystyrene foam, another layer of film is needed on top to prevent direct contact with the cement mortar. Styrofoam is not afraid of such a neighborhood.

Screed- the thickness of the concrete layer and the brand of mortar used are calculated based on the expected loads, on average it is 50 mm. The screed is reinforced with a metal mesh with a thickness of 4 mm. The thicker the screed layer and the greater the expected loads, the thicker the mesh should be. In order for the concrete layer that protects the filling from external influences to be uniform, special plastic stands or improvised devices are used. To maintain the fill level, beacons are used, installed at an equal distance.

With a standard pie, there are two ways to create a floor on the ground- with the union of the slab and the foundation (rigid bond) and through the damper tape (floating screed), more information about the damper tape can be found in the material "Dry screed ...". In the first case, the structure turns out to be dependent on the possible shrinkage of the foundation, in the second case, the screed lives its own life and is not subject to deformation.

To the advantages of floors on the ground their energy efficiency is related - they accumulate heat, versatility - they are suitable for various types of soil, durability - you can forget about a properly made screed for many years. Also attractive for homeowners is the ability to immediately pour an underfloor heating circuit into the screed - water or electric. Plus, for most finishing materials, the resulting slab will be the optimal base with minimal or no finishing, if you try and maintain the level. For example, for a self-leveling decorative floor, a concrete base is considered the best option.

But it was not without its drawbacks - there is a large laboriousness of the process (one of the forum users earned disk protrusion without calculating his own strength), and the inability to carry out communications in the ground, and the rise in price per square meter with large volumes of backfill. However, it is one of the most sought after floor types.

Beam ceiling, as opposed to a monolithic concrete slab. When creating floors along the lags, a “lattice” of longitudinal elements is obtained at the base - wooden, metal or reinforced concrete beams.

In one-story and frame housing construction, wooden beams or logs are more in demand.– they withstand heavy loads, their laying does not require special time costs and wet processes. The required beam thickness is calculated based on the expected loads, the optimal indicator is 1/24 of the length. Coniferous wood is used for the beams, as it is more resistant to external influences, the humidity should not exceed 14%. Before use, treatment with special antiseptic compounds is mandatory - to prevent decay and damage by pests and microorganisms.

Depending on the type of foundation, the beams are installed in special grooves (left during pouring or masonry, cut out in wooden bases) or stacked on top. If the beams are in contact with metal, concrete or brick, additional waterproofing is required at the joints (resin, roofing material, film).

A typical beam slab pie consists of the following layers:

Floor beams - the step between the elements depends on the expected loads and the length of the span, on average - 1 m.

Logs (crate)- a wooden beam laid perpendicular to the beams, the greater the distance between the beams, the more powerful the logs should be. To withstand the level with curved beams, wooden spacers are used, the distance from the wall to the log is 20 cm. When calculating the step, this nuance is taken into account. When the distance between the beams is less than 80 cm, you can immediately mount the subfloor, without a log.

Draft floor - necessary for laying insulation, it is laid between the logs or between the beams, with a small step. As fasteners, cranial bars (beams with a smaller section) are used, attached to beams or logs. The boards are laid on the bars without the use of fasteners, they are located close, but lie freely.

Moisture protection - protects the insulation from absorbing moisture from the underground, but should not retain steam, so ordinary film is not suitable. You can refuse waterproofing if the subfloor is dry and the groundwater level is low.

Insulation - the most commonly used plate or roll materials: stone wool, PSB, XPS or backfill materials such as ecowool.

Vapor barrier - it can be a special membrane or an ordinary plastic film.

Ventilation gap - when designing the floor, it is recommended to choose logs that will be slightly higher than the insulation layer - there will automatically be a gap for ventilation. If this was not done, then after laying the insulation, a timber is stuffed, which will give the desired distance.

Whether to lay another layer of the subfloor after the insulation depends on the future finish coating - plank or slab varieties are self-supporting, for linoleum and carpet you will have to spend money on the base layer.

The advantages of such a floor system include the speed of construction, reduced load on the foundation, the absence of heavy physical exertion during manufacture (no need to drag tons of sand and gravel, pour cubic meters of concrete).

Among the shortcomings, they note the need for effective ventilation of the underground, a lower load limit, the fire hazard of wood and less durability compared to concrete. In addition, to make underfloor water heating, you will need to spend additional money on a screed or use alternative systems, for example, a warm floor on wooden logs. Nevertheless, many developers, including portal participants, choose this type of flooring, modifying a typical pie to fit their parameters.

Kolyaseg replaced the waterproofing film with a fiberglass mesh, believing that it would more reliably keep the insulation from destruction, taking into account the gaps in the subfloor.

Floors on reinforced concrete slabs

Like the floors on the ground - a beamless ceiling, with the difference that the reinforced concrete slab is not poured on the spot, but is purchased ready-made.

A demanded option for houses with a full basement or basement, when the slab is also the ceiling of the lower level. Unlike the floor on the ground and the floor on the logs, it is necessary to involve construction equipment, since it is impossible to lay even the lightest slab by hand. But in terms of speed, slab overlapping devices outperform all other options.

Their thickness is 220 mm, they are lighter than solid ones, have low thermal conductivity and better isolate sound. With a standard thickness, the slabs are able to withstand different loads, depending on the brand of concrete and the parameters of the reinforcing cage. The length varies from 2.4 meters to 6.8 meters, width - from 1.2 to 1.5 meters, weight - from 0.9 to 2.5 tons.

Laying of plates is carried out in several stages:

Substrate preparation - the foundation for the slabs must be perfectly flat. If during pouring slight differences (up to 5 cm) are obtained, they are leveled with a cement-sand screed. In some cases, especially in areas with a slope, it may be necessary to pour a concrete armored belt or brickwork.

Plate preparation - before laying, the channels at the ends are sealed with a heater (pushed in) and cement mortar (covered).

Support - how much the slab should rest on the base depends on its type: the overlap on brickwork is from 125 mm, on concrete - from 60 mm, the long side of the slab does not rest on the foundation. If the slabs laid side by side have lugs, they are connected to each other (welded with reinforcement), if the slabs are without lugs, after removing the chalk (laying device), they are shifted close.

At the points of contact between the slab and the base, a layer of cement mortar (M100) is laid - 2 cm, a reinforcing bar (10-12 mm thick) laid in the center of the seam will help prevent extrusion. Laying on a dry base is also possible, but this is not the case when it makes sense to save money. If the slab is both the base of the floor and the ceiling of the lower room, it is laid with the smooth part down to simplify the finishing later.

Fine-tuning - after laying, the seams formed between the segments must be sealed: with an insignificant thickness, DSP is used, with thick seams, crushed stone of a fine fraction is added to the solution.

Reinforced concrete slabs are considered one of the most durable and reliable types of flooring, they do not require several weeks for the final setting, with proper installation, a flat surface is obtained. Depending on the type of finish, it may be necessary to pour a thin layer of screed (under a warm floor) or level with a self-leveling mixture. And it is also possible to install the cladding directly on the stove, without additional operations.

To the minuses of slab floors include an increase in the load on the foundation, the need to attract special equipment and a higher thermal conductivity of the resulting coating than systems with insulation. Each type of floor has disadvantages, many choose reinforced concrete slabs as the best option for themselves.

Conveniently, some organizations manufacture slabs to order, which simplifies the overlapping of spans with non-standard dimensions. This method rescued one of the participants in our portal, although he had to wait.

What type of flooring to choose, they decide based on many factors: the type of foundation and structure of the house, financial capabilities, the presence or absence of good health for shoveling tons of materials, etc.

Regardless of the option chosen, only compliance with the design to the expected loads, compliance with technology and high-quality materials guarantee the strength and durability of the floor system. In addition, additional measures are also important - insulation of the foundation and blind areas, the presence of a drainage system. published

One of the most important structural components of any building is the floor system - not the finishing decorative coating, but the whole "pie", consisting of several layers. There are several types of floors that differ in the raw material base, manufacturing method and characteristics. Everyone who is faced with a construction or major reconstruction makes a choice in favor of one of the systems, based on their capabilities, preferences and building parameters. It is convenient that some designs involve the simultaneous creation of an underfloor heating circuit - the only one or an additional one. Consider the main floor systems in demand among users of the FORUMHOUSE portal:

how to make floors;
how to make floors along the lags;
how to make floors on floor slabs.

Floors on the ground

Monolithic floor - a multi-layer structure, arranged directly on the ground inside the perimeter of the foundation, a type of concrete screed.

The system consists of the following layers:

Packed soil- it needs to be aligned. Depending on the level, the ground is sprinkled or extra centimeters are removed. The more carefully the surface is rammed and leveled, the stronger and more reliable the screed will be.

bedding- most often used sand. If a thick layer is needed due to the height of the “pie”, it is recommended to backfill in several approaches with tamping of each layer (10-15 cm each). In order to level and compact the soil and bedding as much as possible, a layer of coarse gravel is poured and compacted over the sand. It is also possible to use a common layer of ASG instead of separate layers of sand and crushed stone, tamping is required regardless of the type of backfill. A vibrating plate, in several approaches with a change in the direction of movement, is the best friend of floors on the ground.

Rough coupler- a layer of concrete a few centimeters without reinforcement. It is relevant with strong groundwater pressure and when creating in-depth structures - in basements, basements. A bituminous waterproofing is welded over the screed, sealing the surface and requiring a flat, rigid base. If we are talking about ordinary floors on the ground and there are no problems with waterlogging, this layer is dispensed with.

Waterproofing- cuts off moisture that will come from below, various materials are used, but in most cases it is a thick film (from 150 microns), overlapped with a margin (15-20 cm), in one or two layers. The joints are glued with adhesive tape for tightness, 20 cm of film is put on the walls.

insulation- for the insulation of the floor, slab materials (PSB-25 or EPPS, with a thickness of 100 mm or more) are used, which are laid end-to-end over the waterproofing. When using extruded polystyrene foam, another layer of film is needed on top to prevent direct contact with the cement mortar. Styrofoam is not afraid of such a neighborhood.

Screed- the thickness of the concrete layer and the brand of mortar used are calculated based on the expected loads, on average it is 50 mm. The screed is reinforced with a metal mesh with a thickness of 4 mm. The thicker the screed layer and the greater the expected loads, the thicker the mesh should be. In order for the concrete layer that protects the filling from external influences to be uniform, special plastic stands or improvised devices are used. To maintain the fill level, beacons are used, installed at an equal distance.

With a standard pie, there are two ways to create a floor on the ground - with the union of the slab and the foundation (rigid bond) and through the damper tape (floating screed), you can learn more about the damper tape from the material. In the first case, the design turns out to be dependent on the possible shrinkage of the foundation, in the second the screed lives its own life and is not subject to deformation.

The advantages of floors on the ground include their energy efficiency - they accumulate heat, versatility - suitable for various types of soil, durability - you can forget about a properly made screed for many years. It is also attractive for owners of private houses to immediately fill the floor heating circuit - water or electric - into the screed. Plus, for most finishing materials, the resulting slab will be the optimal base with minimal or no finishing, if you try and maintain the level. For a concrete base - the best option.

But it was not without its drawbacks - there is a large laboriousness of the process (one of the forum users earned disk protrusion without calculating his own strength), and the inability to carry out communications in the ground, and the rise in price per square meter with large volumes of backfill. This is one of the most popular types of floor, mastered by the portal participants.

Staryjdub Member FORUMHOUSE

Region of residence - Stary Oskol, Belgorod region;
Foundation type - TISe;
Type of walls and number of floors - walls made of gas silicate on mortar, plastered from the inside, not yet insulated from the outside - thickness 300 mm;
Floor construction on the ground (in layers) - soil, sand, polyethylene, roofing felt, concrete, XPS (2 layers of 25 mm each), warm floor: 50 mm screed with polypropylene fiber, 10 mm finishing screed, special substrate for TP, finishing - laminate 8 mm.

The screed is floating, we have been living with such a floor for several years, no problems or minuses have been noticed, everything suits.

Another FORUMHOUSE user chose ground flooring as the best heat-saving option.

chicken-A Member of FORUMHOUSE, Moscow

The house with a total area of 135 m², I operate all year round in the mode of residence on short trips - a couple of weeks in it and the same in the city. Partly due to the floors on the ground, which do not break the thermal contact of the internal volume of the house with a huge earthen heat accumulator, I spend very little on heating. True, other applied methods of saving on heating help me here.

And this craftsman built a concrete base that has served faithfully for two decades.

motiv Member FORUMHOUSE

Samara Region;
A mixture of strip and pile foundations (non-hanging grillage);
A house of one and a half floors, well masonry with expanded clay inside, two bricks thick;
The house is about twenty years old;
The floor on the ground is just there, and I don’t remember any problems with it. You can postpone the erection of the floor to a later stage during construction.

Floors on joists

In one-story and frame private housing construction, wooden beams or logs are more in demand - they can withstand heavy loads, their laying does not require special time costs and wet processes. The required beam thickness is calculated based on the expected loads, the optimal indicator is 1/24 of the length. Coniferous wood is used for the beams, as it is more resistant to external influences, the humidity should not exceed 14%. Before use, it must be treated with special antiseptic compounds - to prevent decay and damage by pests and microorganisms.

Depending on the type of foundation, the beams are installed in special grooves (left during pouring or masonry, cut out in wooden bases) or stacked on top. If the beams are in contact with metal, concrete or brick, it is necessary to make additional waterproofing at the junction (resin, roofing material, film).

A typical beam slab pie consists of the following layers:

floor beams- the step between the elements depends on the expected loads and the length of the span, on average - 1 m.

Logs (crate)- a wooden beam laid perpendicular to the beams, the greater the distance between the beams, the more powerful the logs should be. To withstand the level with curved beams, wooden spacers are used, the distance from the wall to the log is 20 cm. When calculating the step, this nuance is taken into account. When the distance between the beams is less than 80 cm, you can immediately mount the subfloor, without a log.

Draft floor- it is necessary for laying insulation, it is laid between the logs or between the beams, with a small step. As fasteners, cranial bars (beams with a smaller section) are used, attached to beams or logs. The flooring of the boards on the bars is carried out without the use of fasteners, the boards are placed close, but lie freely.

Moisture protection- protects the insulation from absorbing moisture from the subfloor, but should not retain steam, so ordinary film is not suitable. You can refuse waterproofing if the subfloor is dry and the groundwater level is low.

insulation- most commonly used slab or roll materials: stone wool, PSB, XPS or backfill materials such as ecowool.

vapor barrier- it can be a special membrane or ordinary polyethylene film.

ventilation gap- when designing the ceiling, it is recommended to choose logs that will be slightly higher than the insulation layer - there will automatically be a gap for ventilation. If this was not done, then after laying the insulation, a timber is stuffed, which will give the desired distance.

Among the shortcomings, they note the need for effective ventilation of the underground, a lower load limit, the fire hazard of wood and less durability compared to concrete. To make underfloor water heating, you will need to spend additional money on a screed or use alternative systems, etc. But floors of this type are chosen by many developers, including portal participants, modifying a typical pie to fit their parameters.

kolyaseg Member of FORUMHOUSE

Hemmed from the bottom an inch board 15 cm wide, 7-8 cm apart, on top of the resulting grate I put a fiberglass mesh for facade plaster and there was already a heater on it - three mats overlapped, it turned out 15 cm. lag board 100x50 mm 24 cm apart. The boards are already OSB-12 or 15.

fiberglass mesh kolyaseg replaced the waterproofing film, believing that it would more reliably keep the insulation from destruction, taking into account the gaps in the subfloor.

Mishgun21 Member FORUMHOUSE

Log cabins/houses made of logs 23 cm, 6x6 meters (with an attic floor), the distance between the logs is different - from 1 m to 1.5 meters. The logs are made of logs, the log house stands on screw piles. The floor pie is like this:

Bar forty;
On it is a rough floor;
From above, a hydro-windproof membrane, with a smooth side to the subfloor (so that moisture does not pass into the insulation), rough - to the heater, so that moisture comes out of it;
Insulation - 150 mm of basalt wool, I will increase the beams with a fifty-fifty bar;
I cover everything with vapor barrier;
Counter-lattice, to create a ventilation gap (bar 50x25 mm);
Batten.

Floor installation on floor slabs

Like the floors on the ground - a beamless ceiling, with the difference that the reinforced concrete slab is not poured on the spot, but is purchased ready-made.

Floor slabs are a popular option for houses with a full basement or basement, when the slab is also the ceiling of the lower level. Unlike the floor on the ground and the floor on the logs, it is necessary to involve construction equipment, since it is impossible to lay even the lightest slab by hand. But in terms of speed, slab overlapping devices outperform all other options.

Floor slabs are manufactured industrially in two categories - single-layer solid and multi-hollow. The first ones are a reinforced monolith, the second ones have through rounded holes (channels) into which it is convenient to hide communications. In private construction, mostly hollow-core slabs are used. Their thickness is 220 mm, they are lighter than solid ones, have low thermal conductivity and better isolate sound. With a standard thickness, the slabs are able to withstand different loads, depending on the brand of concrete and the parameters of the reinforcing cage. The length varies from 2.4 meters to 6.8 meters, width - from 1.2 to 1.5 meters, weight - from 0.9 to 2.5 tons.

Floor on floor slabs in a private house.

How to make a floor in a private house on floor slabs

The work on laying the plates is carried out in several stages:

Foundation preparation- the foundation for the slabs must be perfectly flat. If during pouring slight differences (up to 5 cm) are obtained, they are leveled with a cement-sand screed. In areas with a slope, it may be necessary to pour a concrete armored belt or brickwork.

Plate preparation- before laying, the channels at the ends are sealed with a heater (pushed in) and cement mortar (covered).

support- how much the slab should rest on the base depends on its type: the overlap on brickwork is from 125 mm, on concrete - from 60 mm, the long side of the slab does not rest on the foundation. If the slabs laid side by side have lugs, they are connected to each other (welded with reinforcement), if the slabs are without lugs, after removing the chalk (laying device), they are shifted close. At the points of contact between the slab and the base, a layer of cement mortar (M100) is laid - 2 cm, a reinforcing bar (10-12 mm thick) laid in the center of the seam will help prevent extrusion. Laying on a dry base is also possible, but this is not the case when it makes sense to save money. If the slab is both the base of the floor and the ceiling of the lower room, it is laid with the smooth part down to simplify the finishing later.

In modern construction (especially suburban), ecological houses have become very popular, and in particular, houses made of wood. Accordingly, the arrangement of the floor in a wooden house also implies the use of wood, environmentally friendly materials.

Speaking about the advantages of floors made of wood, we can mention the absence of wet work, that is, work on the production of concrete rough and finish screed, and as a result, the installation process is facilitated and accelerated.

It is also possible to lay more insulation, and you can also use a vast number of its varieties, which was impossible in concrete floors. In addition, it is much lighter on such a floor, made on a wooden base.

When we take a closer look at the arrangement of wooden floors, it becomes clear that it includes both natural wood materials, such as boards, beams, and artificial ones - fiberboard (fibreboard), which are made from woodworking waste shavings.

The technology for making such a floor can be varied, and depends mainly on what purpose and location it is. So, according to its location, they distinguish:

wooden floor of the first floor (on the ground / on the slab from an unheated basement);
wooden floor of interfloor ceilings;
wooden floor of the balcony, loggia, bath.

A small role, but still plays the room in which the installation of a wooden floor. For example, if this is a room with high humidity, then additional layers of waterproofing and vapor barrier materials are applied accordingly, aimed at preventing the infiltration of water and capillary moisture deep into the wooden floor structure.

It is clear that in this case there is a certain approach to choosing a floor covering, for example, today it has become possible in bathrooms, but for this you need to purchase an appropriate special type of it.

In this case, it is worth paying attention to the basis on which the technology of installing a wooden floor will depend: when installing on the ground, special attention is paid to waterproofing work, and large-section load-bearing beams are also used.

The advantage of wooden floors in this case lies in the variety of design solutions aimed at improving the thermal performance.

The device of the wooden floor of the first floor on the ground differs significantly from all others, since the supporting elements for wooden beams in this case are not the surface of the base (soil), but the columns, the so-called "bedside tables", which are laid on it with a certain step (depending on from the thickness of the beams). This can be clearly observed in the arrangement of wooden floors in the diagram given in this article.

Determine the type of soil and if it belongs to the so-called "heaving" varieties, that is, it tends to expand, bulging, then in places where it is supposed to install "bedside tables", it (the soil) is selected to the freezing depth and covered with fine-grained filler - sand.

In the event that the soil is stable, then it is selected to a depth of about 15 cm and rammed, sand, crushed stone are poured in and rammed a second time, which actually ends its preparation for a further stage, which involves the installation of a wooden floor on the ground - laying brick / block columns.

Prepare the base depending on what "pedestals" will have a width. If they are narrow, they will be made of materials less than the width of a brick (25 cm), then it is recommended to pour a small foundation under them of 25 cm deep and 25 cm wide, respectively. After setting and drying, a waterproofing device is made and pedestals are laid.

If the pedestals are made of a pair of bricks with dressing (each row in the perpendicular direction to the underlying one) or other block materials of solid thickness, then waterproofing is laid on the compacted layer of the sand cushion and they are laid (pedestals). At the same time, it is desirable to make the step between the prepared bases for the pedestals such that the distance between the beams laid on them is 50-100 cm, and along the lag of the pedestal every 100-200 cm.

Laying "pedestals" (columns) is made on the mortar, blocks / bricks are laid with the expectation that the beams laid on them will have a height up to the level of the upper edge of the foundation, or rather, a couple of centimeters lower. On the upper planes of the pedestals, a leveling pad is laid with a screed pad made of a cement-sand mixture.

After the pedestals have set and the leveling and at the same time smoothing layer has dried, a layer of waterproofing material is again produced, which will protect the overlying elements - beams, from possible moisture.

Installation of beams on pedestals carried out in one or two rows, depending on the design of the floor, since it can be single and double (see fig.). At this stage, the installation of a wooden floor along the logs involves the use of rigidly fixed elements of the beams along the supports, that is, dowels, anchors.

At the same time, the beams are fixed with anchors, dowels, corners to the foundation through the side faces of the beams, as for their attachment to the pedestal supports, this is not necessary, although it is practiced very often today. This is especially observed when installing a single floor, when the flooring is attached without a crate, directly to the beams.

Installation on a floor slab is carried out along logs of a smaller section with a vapor barrier film; in the case of an unheated basement, it is necessary to provide for the presence of heat-insulating material between the logs.

In this case, it is necessary to pay special attention to the calculation of heat losses, since an unheated basement under the first floor can significantly lower the temperature of the rooms above it.

The main advantage, which involves the installation of a wooden floor on concrete, is the much lower labor intensity and speed of its installation. But this is in the event that the concrete base itself (floor slab) is not included in the calculation.

Floor preparation is to clean the surface of the plate from dust, especially from sharp debris, like small pebbles, glass fragments. Also, all kinds of bumpy and sharp irregularities on its surface are smoothed out, sharp pits are filled with a self-leveling polymer-cement mixture.

If there is a screed on the base that crumbles and peels off, then it should be treated with an acrylic-based deep penetration primer. In this case, two layers of primer can be applied: the first is diluted by 10-20% with water (for deeper impregnation of the base), the second is undiluted. Of course, microorganisms, fungus, etc. are also removed.

Installation of a lag on a floor slab occurs on a litter of waterproofing material, in addition, the waterproofing of a wooden floor in this case (and preferably in all others) may involve treating the logs themselves with waterproofing mastic or special impregnation, which also has antiseptic properties that prevent rotting wood.

Here it is important to pay attention to the fact that the logs are tightly and without large gaps adjacent to the floor surface. The logs are fixed with dowels, the distance between the “tacks” is from 40 cm. The step between the logs is selected individually, depending on the dimensions and rigidity of the flooring material, and it can be 40-100 cm.

Laying a vapor barrier in this case it is necessary, since we are talking about the presence of a temperature difference between the heated first floor and the unheated basement. This difference can cause condensation to accumulate inside the floor structure.

To prevent this phenomenon, various types of vapor barrier films made of polyethylene, polypropylene and having a foil coating are used. You can also use the traditional material - glassine. The material is laid with an overlap of 10-15 cm, wrapped around the perimeter of the room to a height equal to the height of the clean floor with the plinth.

Wooden floors, which are laid on the floors of the second - H-th floor, have a less complex structure than in previous cases.

But at the same time, the floors separated by the ceiling must be heated - this is a prerequisite for the proper operation of such a floor.

The schemes according to which the wooden floor of the second floor and above is made, with the exception of the attic floor, are almost identical both in the case of a concrete slab floor and a beam floor. In both cases, there is no vapor barrier and, at individual discretion, insulation may be included or absent (that is, its absence is not critical).

The device of a wooden interfloor floor on a concrete floor , which is performed between floors, assumes the presence of a log, which are set in increments of 40 cm, with a distance from the wall of 5 cm.

They can be laid on a concrete surface and adjusted in level with the help of special fasteners. By the way, the floor on the ceiling from the heated basement is performed in the same way.

These include U-shaped brackets-holders, which are fixed with self-tapping screws to the sides of the log. There are also special threaded studs, which are hammered into the concrete layer of the slab on one side (or a pillow is screwed on, placed on the bases), and a nut with a union washer is screwed onto the second side, onto which a log is placed.

Also, in order to raise the floor level much higher than the existing one, hardwood bars are placed under the logs in the places where they should be fastened. Bricks and blocks are also used as such linings - the main thing is that the material is durable. However, this is already outdated.

is produced quite often, since wooden beams are used very often. There are several floor designs: on beams and on logs.

If the distance between the beams exceeds 60 cm, then the floor arrangement along the wooden beams is a crate along them from a log in increments of 40-60 cm, respectively. Otherwise, you can arrange the flooring directly on the beams, but they must be even with the step.

In addition to the difference with regards to the lathing of the lag, there is one more thing, that is, the floor can be single and double. When installing a double floor, either special beams with "shelves" are used, on which a rough flooring is laid, or they are made on a beam installed in the design position. To do this, bars are placed on its side faces, on which the rough coating is laid.

As for the insulation, it is laid between the black and finishing flooring, between the beams. Most often, mineral wool boards or similar rolled materials are taken as the material. Materials are stacked tightly, slabs - in a checkerboard pattern, if in two layers, then the second should not coincide with the seams of the first.

Floors that are installed in unheated rooms, such as attics (not residential), loggias and glazed balconies, have an almost identical floor structure on wooden floors and concrete floors, but differ in the presence of special, enhanced measures for thermal insulation and vapor barrier.

Floors with structures consisting of wooden elements, which are suitable in rooms with high humidity, such as bathrooms, bathrooms, kitchens, as well as baths, saunas - are performed as interfloor or first floor floors (depending on the floor on which the room is located), but with an emphasis on improving waterproofing properties.

Also, very often in all the above rooms (and glazed balconies) a wooden insulated floor, electrical and water systems "warm floor" are used, which are usually laid on a layer of heat-reflective roll material, which in turn spreads on heat-insulating material.

begins with the preparation of the surface for sheet vapor barrier materials, that is, with cleaning, etching of microorganisms and smoothing sharp stones and other defects protruding from the plane of the concrete surface. Next, the flooring of these materials is made with an overlap of 10-15 cm, releases to the height of the clean floor + 10-15 cm.

Next, the lag is installed, indents from the walls of 5 cm are observed without fail. Since most often it is required to significantly increase the level of the floor in the case of a balcony, trimming bars are used, which are placed under the logs. At the same time, the use of metal fasteners is not recommended, they can create “cold bridges”, transferring it from the stove.

In this case, warm wooden floors are often used, the device of which also contains electric or water heating systems. In this case, the insulation is laid a little lower than the flush lag, based on the thickness of the insulation system. The system is laid on this insulation, possibly on a heat-reflecting film, and cuts are made in the logs, in which the system is carried out to other parts of the floor. At the same time, the places where the log was cut should be especially strengthened.

depends on the finish. Ceramic tiles can be laid on them, in such cases the flooring is treated with special impregnation or mastic from water absorption and a mesh is laid, along which a cement-sand screed is made.

The floor-wall junctions are pasted over with a sealing tape on the mastic. In the case of the "warm floor" system, which works on a water basis, it is "buried", that is, it is laid and filled with a screed. If we are talking about thin-layer, electric heating, then it is laid on an already dried screed and tiles are laid on top.

There is also another option for installing a wooden floor in the bathroom, when the cheat flooring is supposed to be made from a special waterproof laminate or board. Then the screed is not performed, and the vapor barrier flooring is arranged along the logs with the laid heaters. Draft flooring from boards or shields is treated with special impregnations that increase moisture resistance.

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Finished floor on floor slabs. High-quality floor installation on floor slabs

Creating a screed on a concrete slab

How to make the floor level

Insulation of the floor and pouring the finishing layer

The choice of material for concrete floor insulation

Use and foam glass

Features of concrete slab insulation

Work methodology

on concrete floor

System mount

Laying linoleum on concrete floor

Choosing a laminate flooring

Instead of a conclusion: a warm floor on a concrete screed

Mounting process

How to install a beacon?

Final steps

Making a wooden floor

Main works

Final steps

Water floor device

Laying self-leveling floors

Laying technology

The role of OSB in flooring

Features of the use of the material

Floor slab installation

Technological requirements

Classification

Characteristics of the concrete base

Wood flooring

gluing

Laying on logs

On plywood

Floor installation on a concrete slab - the best technologies and manufacturing methods

Types of floors and their designs

Floors on concrete floors

Floors on the ground

Floors with basalt fiber

Floors with wooden base

Floors in industrial buildings

High-quality floor installation on floor slabs

Layered floor device

Single layer construction

Installation of a separate hollow core

The device of a separate voidless floor

Parquet flooring

Linoleum floors

Floors made of ceramic tiles

Installation of laminated parquet floors

Floors on the ground

Floors on the ground

Floors on joists

Floor installation on floor slabs

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