How to grow a bogatyr crop of pepper. Cultivation of sweet pepper - all the secrets of a big harvest

Prepare the land for seedlings not too rich in nutrients. Ideal Ratio garden soil and humus 60:40. Richer soil will result in faster regrowth of the aerial part of the pepper, and root system develop weaker. In the future, this may affect productivity.

A few grams of double superphosphate can be added to the prepared land, but nitrogenous fertilizers should not be applied for the reason described above. Sow pre-soaked seeds in holes staggered at a distance of at least 5-7 cm from each other.

To grow good pepper, already at this stage it is important to provide sufficient daylight hours. Pepper is a light-loving crop, as soon as the first shoots appear, it is necessary to provide seedlings with uniform lighting.

In the phase of 2-3 true leaves, dive and plant in separate pots. For them, prepare the ground according to the same principle as for seeds, with the only difference being that instead of superphosphate, add potash fertilizers. They are needed for the formation of future buds.

In addition to light, the water regime is also important. Water pepper seedlings in the morning or evening, avoiding daytime watering, especially in full sun. Water should be at room temperature and better settled, that is, collected the day before. Do not use it all - at the bottom of the tank remains the concentration of chemical impurities inherent in tap water.

Plant plants in open ground, greenhouse or greenhouse follows after the threat spring frosts. For different regions timing will be different, as a guideline for central region- the first days of June. To grow good peppers, add humus when preparing the soil (fresh manure is highly discouraged), as well as potash fertilizers. Make holes at a distance of about 35-50 cm from each other, water abundantly, and then place a pepper bush in each hole so that when instilled, the leaf growth point is not buried. Sprinkle with earth, tamp and water again. The second watering helps the soil to settle, so the root system will not be left with voids and you will grow good peppers.

The first top dressing should be carried out no earlier than 2 weeks later. It can be an infusion of fermented weeds or a mixture containing humic acids. The next top dressing is when the fruits begin to actively set. Ash or other potash fertilizer is best.

With a weak formation of fruits, it is recommended to put containers with sweetened water on the beds or in greenhouses. This will attract pollinating insects. The first fruits are best removed in the phase of technical ripeness. In this way, you will increase the likelihood of formation more ovaries, respectively, the yield of peppers will be higher.

Pepper for seedlings

Growing seedlings of peppers from seeds requires a special approach. Plants in the initial phase of growth are quite tender and capricious, besides they are very demanding on sunlight. Therefore, do not blindly follow the recommendations for early sowing seeds (early February). Need to focus on weather And climatic zone. Peppers sown in late February or early March will quickly catch up with their earlier counterparts, as the day increases at this time, the sun peeks out more often. If, nevertheless, the pepper is planted early, it is better to use additional LED phytolamps, extending the day for the plants.

Sowing is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• soil preparation;


• seed selection;


• stimulation of germination;


• landing;


• seedling care.

The soil for growing seedlings of peppers from seeds, even from a reliable manufacturer, and even more so harvested independently, must be prepared. It requires disinfection and pre-moistening. The earth can be steamed in the oven or spilled with a hot weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Seeds are selected for appearance: they must be full, clean, have an even color. If the edges of the grains are brownish or with a strongly curved rim, they should not be sown, they are unlikely to sprout.

It is desirable to stimulate the growth of seeds, because pepper is different poor germination. To do this, they can be soaked in a cloth or immersed for some time in a solution of "Epin", "Zircon" or "Novosil". These are universal growth regulators that have a complex effect on plant immunity and accelerate the formation of the root system. The soaking time must be maintained in accordance with the instructions. On one's own harvested seeds additionally disinfected using Fitosporin, Bactofit and other drugs.

Peppers are grown for seedlings from seeds in large containers according to the 2x2 cm scheme, but you can plant them immediately in separate cups so that you do not have to dive. The planting depth should be large enough - about 3 cm of compacted earth, so that a reliable root system is formed. At further transplants you can not deepen the stem, it will not take new roots, but it may rot. By maintaining the temperature at 28-30°C, seedlings can be achieved a week after sowing. Usually at 23-25°C peppers peck in 14-15 days. Compliance temperature regime it is necessary for the normal growth of plants, therefore it is undesirable to place containers near the glass on the windowsill, it is cool there.

Pepper seedling care

When growing pepper seedlings from seeds, it is very important to remember about timely watering: the soil should not dry out, but also not be too wet. The soil is sprayed from a sprayer to evenly distribute moisture over the surface.

As soon as the first leaves appear, the peppers begin to feed. For this, liquid complex fertilizers are used, which contain not only potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen, but also other trace elements. The main thing for seedlings is the laying of a developed root system and a powerful, but not long, stem. At the very top, when the cotyledon leaves open, future buds are born. If the plants have enough heat and light, then they develop correctly and will bear fruit well.

Picking peppers

When the seedlings grow to 3-4 true leaves, the peppers should be planted in separate pots. Often used for this plastic cups, at the bottom of which a few pebbles are poured for drainage, having previously made holes from the bottom.

When transplanting seedlings of peppers, you should remember some rules:

1. You can not deepen the stem of the plant. Peppers do not produce additional roots like tomatoes, and the trunk can rot in the ground.

2. You can not cut the central spine, it is the basis of the entire system.

3. You can not bend the root, it should be carefully lowered into the funnel made in the ground.

4. Seedlings should not be planted in wet ground (in the mud), when it dries, it will pinch the stem of the plant.

Young peppers are carefully removed from the previously moistened soil and transferred to a funnel in a new container, then the soil is compacted and watered with a fertilizer solution. It is undesirable to use peat pots as containers for seedlings, they draw water from the soil, so it is difficult to control its moisture content.

Pest control

So that the grown one is not attacked by pests, mainly aphids, it is sprayed for preventive purposes once every 10 days with the preparation " healthy garden". The solution should not be too concentrated - a couple of grains per liter of water. But if aphids still appear, the concentration of the drug is increased or Fitoverm is used, which is absolutely safe for home use. You can use folk way aphid control: wash it off soapy water or potassium permanganate, but this will have to be done often, as insects appear.

Transplanting pepper to a permanent place

Pepper needs a warm, humid atmosphere, so it is not practical to grow it outdoors. Plants are planted in greenhouses or specially equipped small greenhouses.

The soil for growing peppers is prepared in advance, compost and mineral fertilizers are applied in the fall. Complex fertilizer added at the rate of 30-40 g per square meter.

If the soil is not filled, the nutrients are brought into the hole, thoroughly mixed with the ground. The hole is spilled with water, after absorbing moisture, the seedling with a clod of earth is lowered into the ground, sprinkled and compacted. Pepper is said to be a "family plant", so it's best to plant two in one hole, even if they different sort. Seedlings develop faster and begin to bear fruit. But in no case should they be combined into sweet and bitter varieties, they will pollinate, and you will get a huge crop of bitter pepper. After planting, carefully water the hole again (a little) and mulch.

Caring for peppers in the greenhouse

How to grow peppers in a greenhouse? Pepper takes root for a long time, at this time it is simply watered as needed. When the plants begin to grow, that is, new leaves appear, they begin to feed them. For a bucket of water, you need to take 30 g (tablespoon) of superphosphate and potassium (preferably without chlorine) and 15 g of urea. Superphosphate and potassium dissolve for a long time, so they are soaked in advance in warm water. Bring a glass under the plant. Pepper in general is very fond of top dressing, so it can be fed every week. The plant responds well to the introduction of nettle sourdough under the root, for which an almost full bucket is stuffed with nettles, a spoonful of superphosphate and a glass of ash are added. Leave for a week, then use at the rate of a liter of sourdough per bucket of water. Watering peppers is carried out regularly, as the soil dries up.

Bush formation

To grow a good pepper, the bushes need to be formed from the very beginning of growth in the greenhouse. Stepchildren are removed from the stems, especially in the lower part, up to the first fork of the leaves. Because the fruits grown on the lower stepchildren will stick to the ground and begin to rot, infecting the rest.

As a rule, two powerful branches are left on the bush, but three can be left. The lower and middle leaves of the plant are cut off to provide ventilation. At in large numbers extra ovaries are removed, because they will not be able to produce full-fledged fruits. On a strong bush, more peppers are left, and on a weak one, their number is reduced. It is best to shoot peppers in a state of biological ripeness, but many varieties do not have time to ripen in the greenhouse. They are harvested and matured indoors.

The homeland of pepper is America - in areas where the tropical climate prevails, you can still find wild-growing individuals of pepper. The plant is very thermophilic and at the same time moisture-loving. It represents the nightshade family and is distinguished by its capriciousness.

If you are partial to the landing process cultivated plants, then tips on growing peppers will be very useful information.

So, we read about the secrets of growing sweet peppers.

Sowing seeds of pepper

You can grow peppers by seedlings. And for this it is necessary to sow the seeds in advance, 50-60 days earlier than the seedlings begin. Seeds for seedlings choose only fresh.

Pepper seeds are capricious, and therefore you need to take the process of growing seedlings with all responsibility. They can be sown in trays or pots, and then put in a warm place.

Before sowing, it is necessary to prepare the seeds of the plant, for this, treat the seeds in a 1% solution of manganese for 15 minutes, then rinse and place the seeds in a wet cloth for 2-3 days.

Pepper seeds are sown in containers at a small distance from each other, then covered with a film until the sprouts peck.

The soil for pepper is chosen rich, with a high degree of fertility. To grow seedlings, it is important not to forget that the soil must be warm. So, the temperature of the soil should be at least 25 degrees Celsius. In addition, it must be kept moist until the seedlings emerge.

Pepper seeds are sown in a warm and moist soil substrate (a depth of 1-2 cm is enough). To prevent the topsoil from drying out, cover the crop with polyethylene film. And after the first shoots of pepper sprout, the film can be removed.

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Seedling feeding

The seedlings are grown, now you need to think about feeding. Peppers are fed every ten days 2-3 times. The first time feeding is done when the seedlings have two leaves. And if a pick was previously carried out, then they are fed after two weeks, not earlier. To do this, use mineral fertilizers or compost, but the plant does not tolerate fresh manure. And if you want to protect the plant from diseases, then a phytosporin solution will be useful for this: 1.5 liters of water and 0.5 teaspoon of the solution. Protection is carried out along with the procedure for enriching the plant with mineral elements.

Pepper seedlings will please you with a bountiful harvest, if at times hardening is done by the sun's rays, as well as aeration of the soil (weeding). Therefore, periodic loosening does not interfere.

On the sixtieth day, seedlings can already be planted in the ground. The ideal time for planting pepper seedlings in open ground is the first half of June, because by this period the danger of frost is reduced to almost nothing.

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How to plant seedlings and create favorable conditions for growth?

It is necessary to plant a plant in one row, keep the distance between plants - 30 - 40 cm, and between rows - 45 - 60 cm. It is undesirable to plant sweet pepper in hot weather, this will cause the leaves to dry out and the plant to wither.

Sweet pepper is a plant that loves moisture, it is important to water it regularly. If the plant is not regularly watered during the appearance of fruits, then cracks appear on the fruits.

Constant access to sunlight will allow the plant to develop and grow normally. In order for the pepper to develop well, carry out additional illumination, provide seedlings with a 12-hour day.

The plant does not tolerate strong wind or draft, you can not plant it in partial shade. Under such conditions, it will stretch in length, which will interfere with the normal development and fruiting of the plant.

If you want to grow bountiful harvest pepper, it is necessary to take into account the fact that for this plant needed warm ground. To do this, treat the beds and raise them to a level of 40 to 70 cm. Timely weeding will help the pepper develop faster.

When pepper shoots appear, weak ones are often removed and stronger ones are left. During the next branching of the shoots, each of them is pinched again, leaving strong and strong shoots.

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How and what to feed?

Plants need to be fertilized every seven days. mineral fertilizers or compost, having prepared a solution in advance with the addition of water and a small concentration of fertilizer. After 15 days after planting, the first top dressing is carried out. You can use mullein, diluted in ten parts of water, with the addition of 25 g of superphosphate.

For 1 m², you can spend 5 liters of solution. You can also feed the pepper with fertilizers "Sudarushka", "Ideal", "Biomaster", chicken droppings.

It is important to feed the plant with fertilizer during fruiting, which contains more N and Ca.

The cultivation of sweet pepper in our area began from the moment it was brought to us from Bulgaria, in fact, that's why they began to call it Bulgarian. In fact, this vegetable comes from America, from which it migrated to Portugal, then to Turkey, then to Bulgaria, and only then to the lands of Ukraine, Moldova and Russia. Gardeners in our country grow sweet peppers in a greenhouse and on open ground.

Which variety to choose for growing sweet peppers depends on where it will grow.

Since there are lovers who grow peppers on the balcony or on the windowsill, varieties are bred specifically for this purpose. These include undersized plants with small fruits:

• Watercolor;
• Tomboy;
• Sweetie;
• Chanterelle;
• Yarik;
• Treasure Island.

On the open ground it is advised to plant:

1. Etude;
2. Curiosity;
3. Carat.

Suitable for growing sweet peppers in greenhouses:

• Arnes;
• Alyonushka;
• Chord;
• Atlant;
• Bonus;
• Vesper and others.

Quite common and favorite varieties of this vegetable are:

1. Tenderness;
2. Gift of Moldova;
3. Health;
4. Martin;
5. Winnie the Pooh;
6. California miracle.

But it is not enough just to choose a variety, it is necessary to follow the technology of growing sweet pepper, starting with the selection of seeds and ending with the collection of fruits.

seedling preparation

This tasty, juicy vegetable leaves gardeners no choice but to grow sweet pepper seedlings. It's not at all difficult to do this.

The end of February is the time when you can start to plant flowering sprouts in the ground in May.

Let's start with the fact that, first of all, you need to prepare what the seeds will be sown in for further growth. It can be boxes or pots. It is worth noting here that the root system of pepper does not accept crowding.

Seeds. The first step is to soak the seeds to disinfect them. In the technology of growing sweet pepper, it is recommended to do this in the usual 1% solution of potassium permanganate for half an hour.

• pepper is immersed in water with a temperature of up to 50C for 5 hours to swell;
• placed in a damp cloth for pecking at room temperature(process usually takes 2-3 days).

When buying, pay attention to the freshness of the seeds. The fresher they are, the faster the first shoots will appear and the greater the harvest.

The soil. Important point- the bottom of the tank must be drained to avoid stagnant water and rotting. The soil is made up of:

1. one part of peat soil;
2. two parts of humus;
3. one part of sand;
4. recommended for 1kg of a mixture of the above components, add 1 tablespoon of ash.

Before sending the seeds to the ground, it must be watered. For irrigation, warm water and a weak solution of potassium permanganate are used. After sowing, the seeds are sprinkled with a layer of soil for half a centimeter.

Top dressing. To fertilize seedlings use the following solution:

• water - 0.5 liters;
• ammonium nitrate - 0.5 g;
• superphosphate - 3g;
• potash fertilizers - 1g.

1. the first - when 2 full leaves appear, using the fertilizer solution in the indicated quantities;
2. the second - when there are 4 leaves or 14 days after the first, using a fertilizer solution, doubling the dose;
3. the third - 2 days before transplanting seedlings into open ground, increasing the dose of fertilizers in solution up to 8g.

Should be done one time foliar top dressing(i.e. spraying) in order to obtain the best fruit.

Sowing seeds. Here it is necessary to separate sowing in a box and sowing in cups.

If sowing will be done in a box, then this should be done like this:

• put drainage on the bottom;
• pour 7-8 cm of earthen mixture over it;
• level the surface of the soil in the box;
• make grooves at a distance of 5-6 cm;
• spread the seeds into grooves at a distance of 1-2 cm from each other;
• on top of the grooves in the box, cover with a layer of humus soil or sand about 0.5 cm thick;
• lightly compact the soil without pressing it.

If the seeds are placed in glasses, then:

1. the soil is moistened in a glass;
2. holes are made, the depth of which is approximately 1 cm;
3. 1 seed is placed in the hole and sprinkled with earth;
4. put on a glass plastic bag, which remains on it until germination.

Temperature regime. Pepper is a thermophilic plant. The daytime temperature for growing seedlings should be 25C-27C, at night it should not be lower than 13C-11C.

There are some nuances in the question of how to grow sweet pepper seedlings:

• container with seedlings should be in a warm place;
• it is very good if the container is covered with polyethylene;
• daily you need to check the soil and prevent drying out;
• watering seedlings should be carried out with warm settled water;
• do not allow drafts and a cold window sill for seedlings;
• loves light, so seedlings need to be provided with bulb light for as long as the day would last if it were summer (from 8 am to 8 pm).

Garden preparation

The soil for growing sweet pepper is prepared in two stages: in autumn and spring.

In autumn, it is necessary to remove the earth from the predecessors of pepper. It is better if the pepper is planted in the soil in which it grew before:

1. cabbage;
2. beans;
3. cucumbers;
4. carrot;
5. pumpkin;
6. vegetable marrow;
7. grain crops.

In autumn, the ground should be prepared by the following actions:

• grind plant residues;
• fertilize the land with phosphate and potash fertilizers;
• plow the soil to a depth of 30cm;
• carry out land planning;
• perform deep cultivation.

In the spring, prepare the ground as follows:

1. harrow the soil, which will close the moisture and level the ground;
2. before planting seedlings, cultivate the earth up to 15 cm deep;
3. before planting seedlings, treat the beds with trichodermin to destroy spores of pathogenic fungi.

Landing

Planting seedlings in the ground is best done on a cloudy June day or in the late afternoon on a normal day. The period for planting in open ground lasts from late May to mid-June.

If the decision is made to grow Bell pepper in the greenhouse, then best time for this will be the beginning of April.

Plants are placed in holes, the distance between which should be 50-60 cm, the distance between the beds - 60 cm. At the end of the planting of sweet pepper seedlings in the ground, it is recommended to cover the bed with plants with a film, which will speed up the process of acceptance and the beginning of growth.

Further care

When growing sweet pepper, we must not forget that this plant is quite fragile and is prone to breaking off not only leaves during careless handling, but also entire branches.

Further care and technology for growing sweet peppers come down to timely watering plants, weeding beds, top dressing and garter.

If sweet pepper is grown in a greenhouse, then when planting seedlings, pegs are immediately installed to avoid injury to the plant later.

Pepper in the first one and a half - two weeks looks a little wilted, but do not be afraid - this is his normal condition. It is very important at this moment not to “fill in” the plant. Your care of the vegetable at this stage is to gently loosen the soil around the plant, and thus provide it with additional oxygen.

Watering when growing this crop before flowering occurs twice a week, after the appearance of flowers, ovary and fruit growth, it becomes more abundant, and is necessarily done under the root, preferably warm water(about 22 degrees). The ideal type of irrigation is the drip method.

• water - barrel;
• mullein - 1 bucket;
• mother and stepmother;
• dandelion;
• nettle;
• woodlice;
• ash - 10-12 tablespoons.

All components are mixed in a barrel, left for 7-10 days, and after a week, natural, natural complementary foods are ready. Each bush is watered with one liter of this mixture. In order for the harvest of sweet pepper to please you in the end, you should adhere to all the rules of agricultural technology.

Video “How to grow a good crop of sweet pepper”

A video from gardening experts showing you how to grow sweet peppers for maximum yield.

Lida Krasilnikova, Your Fertility
Ufa

Preparation of soil, growing seedlings, planting, care, watering and shaping - so that peppers will please the harvest.

When I was young, I didn't care about gardening. Everything was done by the parents. Dad grew seedlings, mom helped him, and my brother and I were in the wings. We always had tomatoes, they worked out well, but with peppers it was just a disaster.

No matter how dad tried, the peppers began to bloom by the end of summer, when the weather was already getting worse, and everything had to be cleaned. As a result, dad waved his hand and stopped growing peppers. When I got married and had children, interest in gardening woke up.

Naturally, I wanted to grow sweet peppers at home. There were mistakes and failures. Either the peppers will grow or not. And since we love him very much, I set myself the task of receiving good harvests this vegetable every year.

Here is how I achieve it.

I prepare the soil for seedlings myself

To do this, in the fall I take the land from the cucumber beds. The land in my cucumber garden is the most fertile. Once every three years, this bed is abundantly filled with organic matter - I form a warm bed.

At the bottom of the garden at the end of the summer, I put the chopped branches that remained after cutting the raspberry and currant bushes. From above I mix straw and the remains of green mass after cleaning the beds, flower beds. I sprinkle a little with Radiance-3, on the eye, as if I'm powdering.

Be sure to add a layer of half-ripe last year's compost. And on top of the layer of earth - 10-20 cm. The bed turns out to be high, it will settle by spring and it will be the very thing. Cucumbers do not “eat up” everything in such a garden for three seasons, due to which seedlings are practically not required to be fed, nutrients enough.

To 5 liters of such earth I add a full tablespoon of Radiance-2 - live microorganisms prevent the appearance of various fungal diseases; about the same wood ash- trace elements; liter jar old sawdust with chips for looseness and nutrition of microorganisms; 1 glass of zeoflora - unbaked zeolite, a source of silicon, which gradually dissolves in the ground and is responsible for the strength of plants.

I moisten the mixture with water, mix well and pour into a bag of sugar. The inner polyethylene bag must be mandatory, otherwise the earth will dry out and microorganisms may die. I tie the bag and put it in a warm dark place for 3 weeks. Most importantly, do not overdo it with moisture - the earth should hold its shape when squeezed in a fist and crumble when pressed. good soil You can easily tell if you have succeeded or not by smell. Properly cooked smells really delicious - mushrooms!

I grow many different types of peppers.

I select different varieties for sowing. Super-early in order to start eating them earlier. The wall of such peppers is not very thick, they are also not large in size, but as a rule there are a lot of them on the bushes. These peppers are good for stuffing.

Medium varieties are already more fleshy. They are used for blanks, they go well for drying. I also choose different colors by color: red, yellow, chocolate.

"Correct" seedlings - the beginning of a good harvest

I sow seeds of peppers in the 20th of February. Why? Because I plant seedlings in the May holidays in a greenhouse. The age of pepper seedlings should be 60-70 days. We subtract this number of days from the approximate date of disembarkation, we get the sowing dates. And if you plant seedlings in June, then you need to sow in the last days of March, not earlier. Otherwise, the seedlings outgrow in a pot, grow old and yield is lost.

I soak the seeds before sowing. I used to sow dry, but since the seeds of peppers are very dry, I began to soak, otherwise the seedlings will have to wait almost a month.

For soaking, I take two cotton pads, pour seeds between them, pour hot water. I let it stand for 5-10 minutes, squeeze out excess water, put it in a bag, lightly tie it up and place it in a warm place.

Everything! After 2-4 days, the seeds peck and can be sown.

I sow peppers in peat tablets, as peppers do not like transplants. For this, in 0.5 l warm water I drip 1 drop of HB-101, put the tablets and wait until they swell.

Then I put them in a disposable bowl with a lid. I put a seed in the middle of each tablet, gently deepen it. I cover the crops with a lid and put in a warm place. Usually it's on the fridge. As soon as a loop sprout appears in the tablet, I rearrange it in a tray and under a special lamp for seedlings.

For the first 3-4 days, I don’t turn off the lamp even at night, otherwise the seedling instantly stretches out and, when picking, it will have to be deeply deepened to the cotyledon leaves and the seedling may rot. Then I turn on the lamp in the morning at 9-10 o'clock and turn it off in the evening at 20-21 o'clock. Illumination lasts 10-12 hours. Here, under the lamp in a tablet, the pepper grows until two true leaves appear. For irrigation, I pour water into the pan, the tablet will take the liquid exactly as much as necessary. Water must not remain in the pan. If this happens, then you need to carefully remove it, otherwise the root suffocates and the seedlings may die.

When transplanting into a glass, I remove the tablet shell, if it is made of non-woven material. There are tablets with a shell made of thin paper, then you can not remove it, the roots easily pass through it. At the bottom of the glass I pour the soil, of my own preparation, put a tablet, fall asleep gently tamping it around with my fingers. Cotyledon leaves should be above the soil level.

I definitely use cups with a retractable bottom. I put them in a bowl and pour water with the addition of Ecogel, 2 tbsp. spoons per liter of water. Ecogel - a preparation based on chitosan, stimulates root formation, growth, flowering, disease resistance and plant productivity. Very effective prophylactic plant protection against viral, fungal and bacterial diseases. I always use it when picking, planting, transplanting plants. Survival 100%! I wait until the earth in the cup is completely saturated. Then I put all the transplanted peppers under the lamps on the racks.

Lighting is important during the entire period of growing seedlings. Spring is different - sunny, warm and not so much. And if there is not enough light and heat, the seedlings will be frail, stretched out. And in the harvest we will definitely lose. Therefore, already at the seedling stage, it is necessary to create all the conditions for peppers. And they are not northerners, they love warmth and light.

In order for the peppers to be comfortable, I purchased a metal rack. Above each shelf I hung a phytolamp, and so that with the growth of seedlings the lamp could be lifted. Between the top leaves of peppers and the lamp is always no more than 10 cm. Additional illumination lasts 10-12 hours.

Despite the fact that the peppers are sissies, I will definitely harden the seedlings. When warm and sunny days, in the morning I take out peppers on the loggia, and in the evening, before sunset, I bring it back. If the nights are warm and the temperature does not drop below 15 degrees, I leave it on the loggia for the night. Since my side is south, there is already enough light on the loggia for the peppers.

Since my soil is quite fertile, I feed the peppers a couple of times in April. I use liquid organic fertilizer"Dachnik" with horsetail or Gumistar. I take 2-3 tbsp. spoons for 5 liters of water and water.

In the country, conditions for peppers are like at home

I plant peppers in a greenhouse for the May holidays. 2-3 weeks before that, I close the greenhouse, cover it so that the earth warms up as much as possible. If it’s cool, I additionally put arcs in the greenhouse and cover the plantings with agrotex.

If peppers are planted in cool ground, then they almost instantly shed all the lower leaves, buds, and they need a lot of time to recover. And this postpones the harvest by at least two to three weeks. And the harvest will definitely not be good.

When planting, I add only a little ash to the hole. I carefully take out well-spilled peppers from a glass with a clod of earth, put in a hole and sprinkle with earth. It is impossible to deepen the pepper when planting, it refuses to bloom, so I make sure that the seedlings sit in the ground like in a glass. If necessary, then I tie tall varieties to a peg so that the bush does not fall under the weight of the fruit.

I mulch for sure

After about 7-10 days, I mulch the soil under the peppers. To begin with, I spill the plantings properly, and then I lay out half-rotted compost or half-rotted grass from the silo pit around the peppers. From above I close with sawdust or small grass after a lawn mower. During mulching, I make sure that the grass does not touch the peppers, I put a little at a distance. If put close, then the stems of peppers can begin to rot from moisture.

Under a layer of mulch of 10-15 cm, moisture is perfectly preserved, weeds practically do not grow, the roots do not overheat, various soil living creatures develop very well. All this is only for the benefit of my peppers.

Peppers a good apartment, with the right neighbors

I used to plant tomatoes and peppers in the same greenhouse. At the same time, if the summer is good, hot, there is a crop of peppers. If the summer is cool enough, there are no peppers. This was because tomatoes and peppers have different needs for heat and moisture. Peppers love warm, moist air, while damp air is contraindicated for tomatoes. Finding a middle ground for both cultures is extremely difficult.

That's why Lately I began to plant peppers in the greenhouse along with cucumbers and eggplants. They have roughly the same needs. At the same time, even when it is very hot, I do not open the greenhouse. My greenhouse is homemade and very comfortable. The walls are glass and the roof is polycarbonate. If necessary, you can always move part of the roof and release hot air. Harvest in such conditions is simply excellent.

It must be remembered that with a lack of heat and moisture, you will never get thick-walled peppers. If you don’t have a greenhouse, you can plant peppers in the ground, put arcs and cover nonwoven fabric, create conditions in all available ways.

In hot weather, I spill the peppers once a week, plentifully. No more is required even on the hottest days, because the land in the greenhouse is all mulched. If the weather is cloudy, one watering is also enough, but less plentiful.

About once every two weeks I feed with infusion of ash so that there is no top rot. To do this, I take 1 liter of ash, pour 10 liters of water and let it brew overnight. Then I water with a ladle under each bush, always after the main watering. I feed the ash extract all season until I remove the last peppers.

But in the first half of the summer I also use an infusion of herbs with Radiance-3 as a top dressing. I prepare the infusion traditionally: I put it tightly into a 10-liter barrel different herbs, I pour out about 1 liter of old jam, pour out 0.5 packs of Radiance-3 and fill it all with water. Close the lid and leave for 4-7 days. The warmer it is outside, the faster the infusion will be ready. I add one liter of solution to 10 liters of water, water it with a ladle under a bush. And I use grass for mulching on beds or flower beds.

If you have no time to prepare a herbal infusion, you can use the ready-made biohumus extract by Gumistar. It is easier to use it - 0.5 cups per 10 liters of water and water.

Proper shaping is the key to the harvest

An important role is played by the formation of peppers. If undersized varieties perfectly fruit without it, then it is simply necessary for tall varieties of peppers.

Formation goes in several stages:

Removing the crown bud. What it is? When the pepper reaches a height of about 20 cm, the stem begins to branch out, several branches are formed. At the point of branching, the first flower bud. Here I definitely remove it for better branching and development of the bush. Sometimes this has to be done at the seedling stage.

Removing excess shoots. Usually I do the formation in 2-3 shoots. These are the shoots that have formed from the fork with the crown bud. I pinch the rest of the shoots, that is, I cut off the top. If I see that the bush is powerful, strong, that it will cope with the harvest (depending on the variety), then I leave the 4th shoot. Keep in mind that if you leave a lot of shoots, the peppers themselves will be much smaller in size.

Abandoned shoots, skeletal branches, soon begin to branch in the same way as the main stem, forming a "fork", in the center of which a bud is also formed. With such a branching, I do the same: I leave the strongest shoot, and pinch the weak ones above the bud and the leaf above it. The sheet must be left behind, as it feeds the zai located under it. And so I do with each subsequent branching.

Removal of barren shoots and lower leaves. Such shoots are formed below the place where the stem branches. At the same time, I remove all leaves that shade plants that do not participate in the nutrition of the ovaries, as well as yellowed and damaged ones. If these leaves are not removed, then even with abundant flowering fruit may not set. I also try to remove the leaves on the main stem in time for the same reason. I do the same with the leaves under all ripening fruits. However, remember that you can delete no more than 2 sheets at a time! And one more thing: I am engaged in the removal of leaves until August.

Pinching skeletal branches. In August, I cut off the tops so that the plant no longer grows, does not waste energy on new ovaries. At the same time, the peppers remaining on the bush begin to actively grow and ripen.

My peppers bring joy

There are so many peppers that we eat them in fresh, and I make different preparations from them, and even dry them on a dryer for the winter.

Grow peppers, have fun, good luck in the new season!

Lida Krasilnikova,
Your Fertility, Ufa

The story of how I fell in love with peppers

My previous experience with growing peppers was pretty dismal, but I only saw it last year when I managed to grow the best pepper crop ever. And so it was.

I grew seedlings - and everything worked out for me, the seeds gave friendly shoots, I planted them first in 200 ml cups, and when cassettes appeared on sale - in cassettes with 40 or 50 cells. And the seedlings, it seems, were strong, but low. And as it seemed to me then, this is even better - the smaller the seedling, the easier it is for it to take root. And "somehow" I planted these seedlings, and "somehow" they grew, and "somehow" by the end of summer they began to sing ...

I remember that my peppers rarely reached technical ripeness, we ate them before, because there were very few of them. But last winter, information came to me that made me think and act in a completely different way.

I plant seedlings early - in mid-February (for small seedlings I have organized sufficient lighting, and for mature plants - there is a well-lit veranda at home, also with morning and evening illumination with a sodium lamp). And my plants have the opportunity to develop well. But, leaving the pepper to grow in a cassette with a small cell (about 150-200 ml in volume), I automatically doomed it to both weak growth and a weak harvest.

The more powerful the roots of the seedling, the stronger the plant itself will be and, accordingly, the greater the yield it can give us in the end. Having understood this idea, I set to work: I grew seedlings, as usual, first in cassettes, and as they grew, they transferred them to containers from 400 ml to 500 ml. The plants did just fine and by the time they were transplanted into the open ground they were 35 to 50 cm high.

I also tried to grow peppers immediately in large containers (without pre-growing in cassettes), but this experience did not give decent results. Plants better learn first a small amount of land, and then gently "roll" into a larger pot.

I planted my peppers in the open ground already on April 17, strengthened the agrofiber in two layers on the arcs (arcs about 70-80 cm high) from above and covered this entire structure with a film.

At the beginning of May 2014 there were very strong return frosts, but my peppers endured them very steadfastly, one might even say perfectly. According to my observations, the height of the arcs under which the plants are located in such cold spring weather is very important: the higher the arcs, the more comfortable the plants feel there.

And here is the first joy from my efforts: already on June 1, we began to eat our peppers! In total, I planted 45 bushes. And we finally ate enough of this delicious and healthy vegetable!

There is no greater pleasure than waking up at dawn, going out into the garden and enjoying the most delicious, fragrant fruits that our Mother Earth generously gives us! Our youngest son (he was then 1.5 years old), running past the beds with peppers, always picked bright, juicy, sweet peppers. A couple of bites were enough for him to get enough, but, probably, he, like us adults, could not resist the desire to hold this bright miracle in his hands!

I fed my pets until autumn, and in the second half of summer, the plants began the second round of increased formation of a new ovary. I left the peppers until frost (under the same agrofibre).

When it became very cold (closer to November), I collected the fruits and wrapped each one in paper. They were kept in the basement. In early December, I decided to cook adjika: pepper came in handy here too. And we ate it fresh until mid-December. And now I use pepper dried in the summer for cooking. By the way, our youngest son loves dried peppers too: he just opens a jar and joyfully devours it!

This is how the story with pepper came out joyful and inspiring me to new garden achievements. I am sure that many of you, dear readers, know and are able to do more than I do, because I am just beginning to touch the truth. And if each of us will talk about his successful experience - it will be just great! Imagine how much more we have to learn new and wonderful.

I wish you, dear gardeners, inspiration for your future accomplishments!

Health to you, your families and your plants!

Oksana Zaitseva,from. Novopetrovskoye, Donetsk region,
newspaper "To the Earth with love!"

Normal Ural pepper

Dmitry Slavgorodsky,
Chelyabinsk

Parents dissuaded us from planting pepper: “If you only knew how much trouble it is with him, and the result is zilch! Well, normal pepper does not grow here in the Urals.” But despite this, we decided to try to do everything ourselves.
This year we grew pepper for the first time in our lives.

Pepper seeds were sown at the end of February. The soil for seedlings was prepared with the help of microbiological preparations "Siyaniye-2" for disinfection and fertilization. Watered once a week with the preparation "NV-101". Peppers did not hurt anything and developed very well.

In April, they chose a good, sunny place, made warm bed. To do this, they took out 15-20 cm of soil, made curbs about 30 cm high from the boards and laid there layers of kitchen waste accumulated over the winter, straw, hay, last year's weeds, sprinkling them with a composting accelerator (Siyaniye-3 drug) and earth. A 10-centimeter layer of earth was covered from above.

Then they built over this bed small greenhouse with the possibility of ventilation, approximately as in the book by N. I. Kurdyumov "Smart greenhouse".

The seedlings were planted in the garden about 2 weeks later, on May 7th. We made fairly large holes, about 4-5 liters in volume, covered them with compost obtained last summer from organic residues, and planted plants there from the cups in which they sat, along with a clod of earth (without damaging the roots).