Weigela - flowering bushes for the oriental garden. Planting and caring for weigela Weigela hybrid

Weigela shrub has unusually decorative properties: undemanding in care, with beautiful, exotic flowers, it will be a wonderful decoration for any garden plot. The name of the plant was in honor of the famous German botanist and chemist Christian von Weigel. The historical homeland of the flower is Asia, but since the 19th century, it has become one of the most popular deciduous perennials in European gardens. Today, in many countries of the world, you can find an Asian beauty belonging to the Honeysuckle family, represented by 15 species and many varieties. Three of its varieties are found on the Far Eastern hills of Russia.

Watering and irrigation of weigela

Weigela loves good watering, but does not tolerate overly moist, waterlogged soil. It is necessary to water the shrub sparingly when a thin dry crust has formed on the surface of the soil. If you neglect the rule, you can damage the roots. They will rot, which will lead to the loss of the plant.

To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly from the surface of the earth, after watering and loosening, the root part can be mulched. Sawdust or peat are taken as mulch. Some gardeners advise to sprinkle the root part with the smallest pebbles. This must be done in the days of May, as in given time the soil is already well warmed up. If sawdust is taken as a “powder”, then they are covered quite thickly, with a layer of about 10 cm.

By autumn, the shoots begin to woody. To make this process faster, you need to reduce the frequency of watering. The woody parts of the plant will more easily endure the winter cold.

Loosening the soil of the plant

After moistening the earth, you should immediately loosen the soil around the plant. This will make it possible to get rid of the bark formed after watering. Over time, it forms a kind of shell that prevents air from penetrating to the roots, and also disrupts moisture exchange. It is necessary to loosen the soil on surface level, the depth of which does not exceed 5-7 cm. Deeper loosening will damage the roots. Carrying out such cultivation of the soil, it is necessary to cover quite most land around the bush - at least 2 meters in diameter.

Top dressing of weigela bushes

Three times during the season, top dressing is applied under the weigela bushes.

For the first time, it is fed on melted snow, which, having melted, will “deliver” fertilizer directly to its intended purpose - to the roots. When snow shelters begin to massively descend from the ground, the forces of the plant are reinforced with the help of mineral dressings. During this period, it is important to support the plant after the cold weather. In this case, carbamide, superphosphate, potassium humate are used.

The time of the second top dressing is suitable when the buds for flowering are formed. During this period, the bushes are most in need of potash and phosphorus fertilizers.

Weigela is fertilized for the third time in mid-July so that it gains strength before the second flowering. For this, potassium sulfate and superphosphate are suitable.

Sometimes the fourth “recharge” is carried out in the fall (at the end of September). During this period, the plant prepares for winter, its shoots are covered with a thin woody crust. Fertilizing the shrub autumn season, the gardener will help the plant "dress" in the bark for the winter, which will protect it from snow and cold. In addition, during this period there is a massive laying of kidneys for the next year. Providing weigela in the fall good watering and top dressing, in the spring you can get beautiful, generous flowering bushes.

Varietal variety of weigela shrubs

Lots of varieties to choose from suitable plant for any, even the most demanding taste. Bushes can be dwarf, reaching a height of 50 cm, and tall, growing up to 2-3 m.

The main decoration of the shrub is flowers, which can be in the form of a pipe, funnel, bloom one at a time or gather in loose inflorescences. The color variety also cannot but rejoice. The branches are completely or partially covered with beige, yellow, pink, red, lilac flowers. Interesting feature flowers - as the buds unfold, they change from light and delicate shades to darker, more saturated ones. When flowering stops, seed pods appear in place of the flowers.

Many varieties have long taken a strong position in the gardens, and some are only gaining their fans. The most popular varieties with high decorative characteristics will be discussed in the article.

Variety Rumba

Weigela Rumba bushes are medium in size. Their height and width are approximately the same and are 1-1.2 m. They are covered with elongated, oval leaves of pale green color, with a cherry-golden hue. It belongs to the red weigela variety, which is estimated in many dozens of varieties. Inflorescences on the bushes are formed lush and catchy. The flowers are ruby ​​red on the outside and purple-pink on the inside.

Like most varieties, the Rumba variety blooms twice a season. For the first time, it is covered with flowers in late spring - early summer (May-June). The second flowering is less magnificent occurs in late summer - early autumn (August - September).

The plant is unpretentious in care, but it must be remembered that weigela is “Asian” in origin and may not survive a too harsh winter. Therefore, one of the most important components of caring for a plant is sheltering the root system for the winter. By its nature, the shrub is photophilous, but it also grows calmly in areas with partial shading. Regarding the soil, the requirements are also extremely simple - the soil must be nutritious and well-drained and moist.

The optimal planting of the red Rumba weigela is summer using cuttings. In autumn, propagation by cuttings is also possible, but only under favorable weather conditions.

Variety Red Prince

In 2002, she was awarded the Weigela Red Prince in the UK. Seeing a flowering bush, many will agree that the variety was marked by the English Horticultural Society for a reason. On its branches there is a huge number of bell-tubes, the length of which ranges from 3 to 6 cm. They form beautiful inflorescences, each of which contains about 4 flowers. The coloring of the shrub also deserves praise - red-pomegranate flowers look favorably against the background of bright, green foliage. Weigela Red Prince requires classic self-care: planting and caring for the "red prince" is carried out according to all the rules indicated above.

Variety Bristol Ruby

Weigela red Bristol Ruby boasts no less attractive appearance: planting and caring for it will not cause any special problems. It was bred by American breeders at the very beginning of the forties of the last century. It belongs to tall varieties, since its usual height is about three meters. The flowers are large, funnel-shaped, up to 5 cm long. The color of the flowers justifies its name: when fully bloomed, the flowers acquire a shade precious stone- ruby. But at first, the buds are lighter, with a pinkish tinge.

Simple care for the weigela Bristol Ruby consists in timely watering, forming a bush, regularly loosening the soil around it and sheltering the root system for the winter (this is especially true for small, young bushes).

Weigela Ruby Star has similar characteristics - bright, large flowers in shape resemble elongated bells. The foliage is bright, juicy green, well sets off no less spectacular flowers.

The principles of plant care largely coincide with the methods of keeping the Bristol Ruby variety.

Variety Nana Purpurea

Weigela Nana Purpurea, a long-lived deciduous shrub, whose age can reach 30 years, admires with its beauty. Its distinctive feature is the specific, purple-chocolate color of the foliage. When exposed to enough sunlight, they turn almost completely brown.

Flowers are the main value

Flowers that look like elongated raspberry-pink bells give the variety a greater decorative effect. Their length is about 4 cm, the outer color is darker than the inner. They bloom not one by one, but in small, loose inflorescences. The branches are so densely covered with purple tubular flowers that the foliage is barely visible through them. It is for this property that weigela blooming Nana Purpurea was so fond of flower growers and gardeners in Europe and other countries.

Varieties bush sizes

The bush is compact, in width and height not exceeding 1-1.2 m. Belongs to plants with slow growth: only 10-13 cm in width and upwards weigela Nana grows during one season. Likes sunny areas, but tolerates a little shading well. Although this reduces the decorative effect of the bush: the number of inflorescences decreases, and the color of foliage and petals becomes less expressive.

Preparing the plant for the winter

Requires mandatory shelter for the winter, especially in young age. For this, agrofibre or spruce "paws" are used. Sometimes the shoots of the "young growth" are bent to the surface, the branches are fixed, and then covered. Some make frames around the circumference for fragile bushes, they put a “insulation” on them and fix it. Adult plants do not need such winter preparations. The only exception is that roots are sometimes covered as a safety net against snowy winters.

Variety Alexandra (Wine and roses)

Weigel variety Alexander can also be called a "double decorator". Not only pink-raspberry bells adorn the bush. Its burgundy leaves also serve as part of the external splendor. Perhaps that is why the plant received another name - Wine and roses. This variety has become a well-deserved medalist in many flower growing competitions held in Holland and the USA. And this is not surprising, because its flowers are striking in their beauty. Bright outside, inside they are painted in lighter shades. The length of a tubular flower with petals bent outward is about 4 cm. The bush becomes brighter and more lush due to the fact that the flowers form voluminous “lantern sleeves” on the branches, as they grow not one at a time, but in inflorescences. Bush dimensions - 1-1.5 m in length and width.

Variety Minor Black

If the gardener does not have enough space in the garden, but wants to plant such beautiful shrub, weigela Minor Black will help him - it does not grow above 0.8-1 m and is considered a dwarf variety. In addition to its compact dimensions, it will delight flora lovers with an incredibly attractive appearance. Its glossy leaves of bright, chocolate shades perfectly emphasize the attractiveness of hot pink bells. They form an inflorescence of 3-6 pieces and look just great. Despite the fact that it has a significant difference in size from other varieties, the miniature weigela is blooming: planting and caring for the plant is no different from its "tall relatives".

Variety Eva Rathke

Weigela Eva Rathke is also characterized by a small volume of the bush, combining the varietal characteristics of two species - Korean and abundantly flowering. The height of the bush rarely exceeds 1 m, but the width can reach 3 meters. Its large red flowers with a scarlet tint will not leave anyone indifferent, especially since they form airy inflorescences, gathering several pieces in one "bouquet". Unlike other varieties, it can tolerate overwatering and waterlogging. But still, it is better not to abuse such “endurance”. Care is standard.

Variety Nana Variegata

Another variety that combines unusually beautiful foliage and graceful, delicate flowers- weigela Nana Variegata - a lush shrub with spreading branches. The bush is of medium size, grows up to 1.2 -1.5 m in height, up to 1.7 m in width. The plant is called variegated weigela, as the bright, green leaves are bordered with a creamy yellow stripe and create a patterned ornament. Another name - weigela pink characterizes the color of flowers. They are tubular bells of medium size (3-4 cm), the shade of which varies from pale pink to crimson pink.

Not even quite experienced flower growers Weigela Variegata is suitable: planting and caring for it are the simplest, not requiring much effort. Grows well in sunlit areas that are not subject to strong drafts. It can tolerate shade, but blooms worse. Once every two or three years, it needs pruning of overgrown or old shoots. The formation of the bush is carried out after it has completely faded. For the winter, she should provide a little shelter. It is not worth building complex protective structures, since this variety is quite cold-resistant.

Middendorf variety

In the vastness of Sakhalin, Middendorf Weigela is found - the most suitable shrub for growing in cool climatic conditions. Among many varieties, it is considered one of the most cold-resistant. It differs not only in resistance to frost, but also in unusual colors for this plant. Tubular bells are painted in a yellow-cream tone, in the center there is a small spot orange color. They are large, their diameter reaches 3.5 cm, and the length is 4 cm. The foliage is green, with a small, burgundy vein in the center. The surface is slightly pubescent, and in shape they tend to an ellipse. The height of the shrub does not exceed 1.5 m. It blooms, like most varieties, twice a year. Decorative properties are high. Check out the article:.

The weigela plant (lat. Weigela) was named after Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel, a German botanist, chemist, and pharmacologist. IN natural environment the plant can be found in the southeast, east of Asia, on Far East, the island of Java.

Weigela is a deciduous shrub with erect stems belonging to the Honeysuckle family. The genus consists of 15 species, 7 of which, together with 10 varieties, are cultivated. Petiolate oval-shaped leaves have serrated edges, are located oppositely, painted in green color, may have a beige border.

Bell-shaped or funnel-shaped flowers reach a length of 5 cm, are located singly or are collected in loose inflorescences. The color of the corolla as it blooms from a dull shade turns into a more saturated one, it can be yellow, cream, pink, burgundy red and other colors. Flowering occurs twice a year: mid-May-mid-June, late August-late September, the second bloom is less lush.

Weigela loves moisture, shade-tolerant, easy to care for and reproduce.

When and how to plant weigela

Note that the article deals with the conditions of the middle zone, including the Moscow region. In order for the plant to take root well, it is best to plant in the spring, when the soil has not warmed up much yet, and the buds have not begun to swell. Planting in the fall most often leads to death - the plant does not have time to get stronger before the onset of cold weather.

The ideal place would be the south side on a slight elevation, since warmth and bright lighting contribute to the abundance of flowering. When planting in another place, protection from strong gusts of wind and drafts is necessary, due to which the buds may fall off.

The soil needs loose, fertile: loamy, sandy loam with a neutral or slightly alkaline reaction. Weigela middendorffiana species also grows well on slightly acidic peat soils.

Should be dug landing pit about 30-40 cm deep. If the soil is poor, deepen another 10 cm to lay a fertile layer (1.5 buckets of compost) with fertilizers (100 g of nitrophoska). Lay a drainage layer about 15 cm thick on the bottom, consisting of coarse sand, then, if necessary, lay a nutrient layer (compost with fertilizer).

For the best, treat the roots of seedlings with a growth accelerator. For tall species (up to 2.5 m tall), it is necessary to observe a distance between plantings of 1.5-2 m, undersized species(up to 1 m tall) should be spaced 80 cm apart. Straighten the roots, place the seedling in the planting hole, fill the soil gradually, tamp each layer. Water thoroughly after planting. The root neck should be flush with the soil surface or a maximum of a couple of centimeters deeper. Mulch trunk circle.

How to care for weigela in the garden

Watering and loosening

Moderate required. Mulch around the trunk will help keep the soil moist. In dry weather, water more abundantly. In the spring, if the shoots are very frozen, it is necessary to add 8-10 liters of water under each bush.

In order not to hurt root system plants, gently loosen the soil, deepening 5-8 cm, remove weeds.

top dressing

If during planting you made nitrophoska and compost, the next top dressing should be carried out in the 3rd year of life. To stimulate growth in early spring apply a complex of mineral fertilizers containing nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus. When the weigela begins to form buds (end of May-beginning of June), add superphosphate and potassium sulfate - flowering will be more lush, the stems will become stronger. Under autumn digging deposit wood ash(for each square meter 200 g of ash) or Kemira autumn fertilizer.

Young bushes need sanitary pruning: in early spring, remove frozen, broken, weak branches, thin out the bush a little.

pruning

Formative spend for adult plants: after flowering, shorten the young shoots by half the length.

Every 3-4 years, rejuvenate the weigela: remove all branches that are more than 3 years old, shorten the rest by 1/3. You can cut off all the shoots completely - the plant will recover perfectly.

Pests and diseases

Caterpillars, aphids, thrips, spider mites- possible pests of the plant. First of all, treat with natural preparations that are gentle on the environment. Spray with an infusion of hot pepper, wormwood or garlic. In extreme cases, resort to treatment with insecticides purchased at a flower shop.

After planting, seedlings may wither, turn yellow. Most likely, the roots are eaten by bears or larvae of the cockchafer. The soil must be spilled with a solution of aktara or karbofos.

Weigela can be affected by diseases such as gray rot, rust, spotting. Treat the plant with Bordeaux mixture. For prevention, with the beginning of the appearance of leaves, treat with Topsin solution at a concentration of 3%.

Growing weigela from seeds

The plant is propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

Weigels retain good germination for about 1 year. Stronger, more viable plants grow from seeds, but varietal characteristics are lost, so seed propagation is suitable for obtaining a large number of specific seedlings. There is no need to grow seedlings. You can sow before winter (November) or spring (end of April).

Winged seeds sow superficially, sprinkle with sand. For the winter, it is necessary to prepare a shelter, which should be removed in the spring. Seedlings appear after 3 weeks.

Weigela propagation by cuttings and layering

In early spring, root cuttings from lignified last year's shoots. In the period from the end of May to the beginning of June, root cuttings from slightly lignified young shoots of the current year.

The length should be 10-15 cm. Remove the lower leaves, shorten the upper ones by 1/2 of the length, treat the lower cut with a growth stimulator. Plant the cuttings in a wet sand-peat mixture, deepening by 1 cm, cover from above glass jar or plastic cap. Air daily, spray regularly. To stimulate bushiness, young shoots must be pinched.

In autumn, it can be propagated by layering. The lowest shoot must be bent to the ground, at the place of contact with the soil, make an incision in the bark, sprinkle with earth. In the spring, separate the seedling from the mother plant and transplant.

How to collect seeds

Seed boxes open on their own, so it is advisable to wrap several pieces with gauze so that their contents do not spill out onto the ground. Do this from mid-October, and in November, cut off the boxes along with gauze, gently shake the seeds onto a newspaper and dry them in a warm room with good ventilation. Place the seeds in a paper bag and store in a dry, warm place.

Weigela shelter for the winter

Many do not know how weigela for the winter. Meanwhile, a good shelter allows you to save the bushes not only in the conditions of the Moscow region, but also in the Leningrad region.

• After the leaves fall, sprinkle the near-stem circle with soil, forming a mound 15-20 cm high.
• Bend the branches to the ground, fix with staples, cover with roofing material.
• You can also pull the branches with twine or rope, mulch the near-stem circle with dry leaves, build a frame, wrap the structure with non-woven material.

Popular types and varieties of weigela

Weigela early or weigela pleasant Weigela praecox

A bush of spherical shape, reaching a height of 2 m. The leaves are pubescent. Flowers of a bright pink color with a yellowish-white throat are collected on lateral shoots in 2-3 pieces. The variegated variety is weigela variegated - yellow spots, which become creamy in summer, cover green leafy plates.

Weigela florida Weigela florida or blooming weigela

The pubescent shoots reach a length of 3 m. The leaves are serrate, petiolate, along the central vein on the surface sheet plate there is pubescence, the veins on the underside are completely pubescent. Inflorescences are painted in bright pink color.

Popular Shapes:

• Weigela purple (Weigela Purpurea) or weigela red - limited to a height of 1.5 m. The leaves are red-brown. The color of the corollas is pink with a yellow throat.
• Alba is a dwarf shrub with white flowers.
• Weigela florida Variegata - has small leaves and bright pink flowers. The most frost-resistant form.
• Weigela pink (Weigela florida Bunge) - the outer part of the corolla is painted in a pink-burgundy shade, inside it is pale pink, almost white.
• Weigela Victoria (Weigela florida Victoria) - bush 1 m high, red-brown leaves, crimson corollas.

Weigela hybrid Weigela hybrida

Spreading shrub 1.5 m high. Flowers are singly or collected in loose inflorescences of 2-3 pieces. The color can be pink, white, purple, lilac, purple-red.

• Bristol Ruby - a bush 2.5-3 m high. The leaf plates are bright green. Pink flowers have a red-ruby throat.
• Red Prince (Red Prince) - sprawling bush with drooping shoots, height is 1.5 m. Flowers are red.
• Eva Rathke - compact bush reaches a height of 1.5 m. Reddish-pink corollas have a lighter inner surface.
• Rosea (Rosea) - the shoots bend, reach a height of 1.5 m. The flowers are large, painted pink with white specks.
• Styriaca (Styriaca) - abundant flowering. Corollas 2.5-3 cm long have a pinkish color, by the end of flowering they become red-brown

Weigela Middendorffiana Weigela middendorffiana

A bush with ascending shoots 1-1.5 m high. Corollas 3-4 cm in diameter are painted yellowish, the pharynx is covered with orange spots.

Weigela Korean Weigela coraeensis

The bush reaches a height of 1.5 m. The shoots are bare. Leaves 12 cm long, broadly elliptical, glossy above, covered with sparse fluff below. As it blooms, the corollas turn from pale pink to maroon.

Weigela Maksimovich Weigela maximowiczii

The height of the bush is 1.5 m. The leaves are obovate. Large flowers of pale yellow color are arranged in 1-2 pieces.

Weigela floriferous Weigela floribunda

Reaches a height of 3 m. Petiolate leaves 10 cm long are rarely pubescent on the surface, the pubescence runs along the veins from the bottom of the leaf plate. At the first flowering, the flowers are dark red, and later - pinkish.

Weigela Japanese Weigela japonica

Grows up to 1 m in height. Elliptical leaves are slightly hairy. Dark pink flowers are collected in 3 pieces.

Weigela garden Weigela hortensis

Height is 1 m. Flowering is plentiful. Pinkish-burgundy flowers are collected in dense inflorescences.

We will introduce you to interesting plant- weigela. Let's talk about features of weigela, as well as planting and caring for it in the open field. We will teach you how to propagate the plant, how to prune properly, and how to deal with pests and diseases.

Did you know? The plant was named after the German professor of chemistry and botany Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel. This shrub was obligatory element traditional Chinese and Japanese landscape garden.

Advantages of weigela

Weigela is a shrub whose homeland is Eastern and Southeast Asia. Grow there wild species shrub. The genus includes 15 plant species.

The main advantages of weigela are simplicity and a large number of methods of reproduction, the beauty of inflorescences and ease of care. When flowering, the bush forms a huge number of peduncles, which turn it into a huge ball covered with flowers. The shrub also tolerates frost and other stressful conditions well.

The most popular types of weigela

Breeders have bred many types of weigela, which amaze with their beauty and originality. So that you can choose the right shrub, we will present the most popular varieties.

Bush of this type has a height of up to 150 cm with ascending shoots. The leaves are bright green, the inflorescences are sulfur-yellow with orange spots. In the inflorescence collected up to 6 flowers. Weigela Middendorf blooms in spring and autumn with a duration of 1 month.

Weigela pleasant

Important! Seeds of this species do not ripen in middle lane.

This species is rarely found in gardens. Bush has a height of 130 cm, leaves oblong-lanceolate bright green color. The flowers are pink-purple on the outside and pale pink on the inside. It also blooms 2 times a year - in May-June and August-September.

Weigela japanese

Weigela japanese has a height of 100 cm, Elliptical leaves up to 10 cm long. Flowers pale pink, bell-shaped. On one pedicel 3 flowers are formed.

cultivated shrub has a height of 150 cm (wild - 5 meters). The leaves are pointed, shiny. The flowers have a color from pale pink to bright carmine (at the end of flowering), a diameter of 3 cm. It also pleases with flowering 2 times a year (like a pleasant weigela). It blooms from 15 to 30 days (this period may vary with each flowering). Seeds, unfortunately, do not ripen in the middle lane.

Important! Requires shelter for the winter.

Weigela early

This type of weigela has a height of 150-200 cm, grows in China and North Korea on rocky slopes. The leaves are dark green broadly lanceolate. The flowers are collected in inflorescences of 2-3, are pink on the outside and purple-red inside. It blooms in May-June, the duration of flowering is 10-30 days.

Weigela garden

Bush in height up to 100 cm, outwardly similar to the Korean species. The leaves are egg-shaped, up to 10 cm long. Flowers can appear both at the ends of the shoots and in the axils of the leaves, are tubular and dull pink in color. It begins to bloom profusely in the 3rd decade of May and until the beginning of June. With age, the resistance of the plant to frost increases.

Important! This type needs shelter for the winter.

has a height of 150 cm. The leaves are pointed to the top, up to 8 cm long. The flowers are pale yellow and funnel-shaped. Flowering takes place from the second half of May to mid-June. In this species, seeds ripen by mid-October even in the middle lane.

Analyzing the types we can single out one leader - Veigela Maksimovich, which gives viable seeds even in more northern latitudes. If you live in the south, then you can choose based on your own preferences.

Correct fit

We will choose a place for planting, planting time and prepare the site.

Did you know? Weigela in landscape design is used for group and single plantings, on slopes and slopes, to create free-form hedges and in compositions with perennials.

Optimal landing time

Many florists are concerned about the question, when to plant and transplant weigela.

Weigela should be planted only in spring. The optimal period is March-April (between the beginning of the soil warming up and the swelling of the kidneys). If you plant a shrub in the fall, then it may not survive the frost, even if you cover it.

If you bought a weigela in the fall, then you should not panic. The plant can wait until spring. Just dig a bush at an angle and cover with earth.

Shrub transplantation is done in the same way only in spring, so that before the winter he had time to adapt and accumulate nutrients.

Selecting a landing site

For landing, choose a hill, closed from the north winds. Weigela does not tolerate drafts (the wind knocks down the inflorescences), so the place should not be strongly blown. South facing would be ideal. The bush will feel even better if there is a building behind it; this way you will definitely protect the plant from drafts.

Soil preparation for planting seedlings

The plant is demanding on the soil, so its composition must be taken seriously. Weigela prefers sandy or loamy soil with a slightly alkaline, and preferably a neutral reaction. Also, the soil should be rich in humus and trace elements. Before planting, the bottom of the pit is covered with gravel or other drainage. Then they fall asleep with black soil (or other fertile soil) with fertilizers (100 g of nitrophoska and 7.5 kg of compost).

Do not forget to mix nitrophoska well with compost, otherwise you will burn the roots of the plant. When preparing the soil, it is worth remembering that weigela does not like waterlogged soil, Therefore, such areas immediately disappear. The same applies to areas with high groundwater.

Bush care during the season

You have planted a weigela, now you need to properly care for it so that the shrub is healthy and delights you with luxurious flowers twice a year. So, we turn to the consideration of weigela care.

Irrigation schedule

Weigela should be watered as needed. If there has not been rain for a long time and the soil began to dry out, water the shrub (about 5-8 liters per 1 bush). Do not oversaturate the soil with moisture, otherwise the roots will begin to rot. In this case, no a certain amount watering, but you should know that if you mulched the bushes, then you need to water much less often, as the mulch retains moisture. Also, the plant should be watered abundantly after winter (about 8-10 liters per bush), if it is frozen. We will talk about caring for weigela in the spring.

Mulch and soil fertilization

Weigela needs mulching and fertilizing the soil, so read this section carefully to keep the bush healthy.

Important! If you do not feed the weigela in the spring, then the plant may not bloom, or its flowering will be short. In the worst case, the bush may even dry out due to lack of strength.

In early spring(when the snow has not yet melted) mineral fertilizers are applied under the bush (20 g of urea, 10 g of superphosphate and 10 g per meter potash fertilizers). This will give additional strength to a plant weakened after winter.

Weigela is fed again during the first flowering period - At the beginning of June. Double superphosphate and potassium sulfate are added (30 g of each per 1 sq. M).

autumn during digging, the following fertilizers are applied: 3 kg of humus, 50 g of superphosphate, 30 g of potassium sulfate per 1 sq. m.

Important! Spring top dressing does not need to be postponed to a later period, since the weigela will continue to start up new shoots that will not have time to lignify to frost and will die.

Also, do not forget about the mulching of the soil near the plant.

Mulch not only retains moisture in the soil, but also prevents weeds from growing and keeps the soil from overheating. Mulch is laid in late spring. To do this, you can use sawdust, which is poured in a continuous layer of no more than 10 cm in thickness. The trunk circle should have a radius of about 2 m.

On this mulching and fertilizing the soil completed, you can move on to seasonal tillage.

Loosening and removing weeds

The earth around the bush must be loosened after watering and when compacting the soil. Loosening the soil begins immediately after the snow melts and ends in July. It is also important to take care of weeds, which should not be around the plant.

Recall that mulching the soil helps both get rid of weeds and prevent drying out or overheating of the soil. At the same time, it is not necessary to loosen the soil, since the earth is not exposed to direct sunlight and wind.

Weigela resistance to winter cold

Usually, you need to cover the weigel in front winter frosts to protect the roots of the plant.

In the northern zones, natural shelter is snow, which protects the roots from low temperatures. However, winters are not snowy, so you need to additionally cover your shrub from frost.

As a shelter, you can use spunbond, which has established itself as an excellent covering material. To do this, a frame is installed above the bush, and material spreads over it. The trunk circle, mulched earlier, is sprinkled with spruce branches or dry foliage. In winters with little snow, you can also cover the plant with roofing felt or lutrasil. From above, the entire structure is covered with a plastic film. After the leaves fall, you can tie the bushes and bend them to the ground. This method is used if a very cold winter is expected (the temperature near the ground is higher than 1-1.5 m above it).

When spring comes, it is important to know when to remove the shelter from the weigela. Do it with the onset of snowmelt or warming. It is necessary to remove the film, frame and leaves from the mulched circle. After that, water the plant abundantly and, if necessary, loosen the soil.

Recently planted weigels, as well as those that are several years old, must be covered for the winter. With age, their winter hardiness increases, and shelter can be abandoned (if the winter is snowy). In the event of freezing, weigela quickly recovers due to its high shoot-forming ability. But next year it will bloom poorly.

If you follow the instructions, the wintering of your weigela will go smoothly, and the bush will not freeze.

Pruning and crown shaping

Next up is shrub pruning. Let's start cutting weigela in the fall.

It is important to remember that weigels do NOT carry out autumn pruning. Since before wintering, the shrub accumulates nutrients not only in the roots, but also in the above-ground body, including in the shoots. Therefore, pruning can lead to the death of the bush due to lack of nutrition.

In the spring, after removing the shelter, only diseased and frozen shoots are pruned. Formative pruning of weigela is carried out only after flowering - in June. At the same time, old unproductive shoots are cut off along with part of the crown, leaving well-developed renewal shoots. Faded shoots are shortened by 1/3.

Complex pruning is carried out only once every 3 years regulating the density of the bush and the presence of fertile shoots.

Important! If you missed the time of summer pruning, then later it can no longer be carried out. This injures the plant before re-blooming.

Reproduction of weigela at home

Having studied the pruning and formation of the weigela bush, we proceed to the reproduction of the shrub. The plant can be propagated dividing the bush, cuttings, taps or seeds. Recall that in the middle lane, most species do not produce viable seeds.

cuttings

This is the most common method of breeding weigela, in which green cuttings are used, since lignified ones do not take root well (if they take root, then it will take about 5 years to wait for the results).

The cuttings are cut with a sharp disinfected blade in April-May before budding. The cutting should have 2 leaves and a length of 10 cm. The cut must be straight and even (no splitting of the wood). The cut site is treated with a root growth stimulator - heteroauxin (159 mg per 1 liter of water), and left for 12 hours in a dark place at a temperature of + 19-20 ° C. Next, the cutting is planted in a peat mixture (earth, peat, sand) to a depth of 5 mm so that it takes root. Water the young plant 2 times a day.

Important! After planting, the plant must be covered with a film that can be easily removed when watering.

Roots will appear in a month, and in open ground the plant can be transplanted only after 18 months.

The division of the bush

Weigela can be propagated by dividing the bush. Bushes that are more than 3 years old are suitable for this. Also, the bush should have many shoots that grow from the ground.

Late autumn after the leaves fall dig up a shrub and separate part of the rhizome with an escape. To do this, use a sharp knife or scalpel (the tool must be clean). The place of the cut on the mother bush and the separated part is sprinkled with crumbs activated carbon. The separated bush is brought into the room and allowed to dry. After that, the upper shoots are shortened by 2 times. Planting a new plant in the spring, after the snow melts. So that the bush does not dry out during the winter, it is added dropwise in a dark, but not too damp room in the sand and occasionally moistened.

Planting the separated part is carried out in the same way as a young plant.

Branches

To propagate weigela with taps, you need to choose a healthy shoot that is closest to the ground. Shallow notches are made on it in the place where it will be dug in with earth. After that, the shoot is fixed and sprinkled with soil. All these actions are carried out in April - early May.. You need to water the layering more often than a regular bush. After the second flowering, you can check it for roots.

So that the new plant can be separated, should take 1.5-2 years.

Did you know? On the this moment there are about 200 varieties of weigela. The largest collection in the world is presented in botanical garden city ​​of Sheffield in the UK.

seeds

Weigela seeds are not stored for more than 2 years, and after 1 year the percentage of germination drops by 2 times. In this way, it is better to plant the seeds immediately after harvest, in the fall, near the mother plant. Since you will cover the entire bush for the winter, the seeds will also be in protected ground. By spring they will sprout, and it will be possible to choose a few of the most strong plants. Others need to be removed from the site. Young plants are left near the mother bush for several years, then transplanted to another place.

Important! When weigela is propagated by seeds, its species and varietal qualities are lost. In this way you can get a wild plant that will not be 1-1.5 m in height, but 4-5. Therefore, flower growers do not recommend propagating weigela with seeds.

Weigela pest and disease control

The main pests that annoy the shrub:

Since the bush grows in the open air, it is possible (and sometimes necessary) to use chemicals to surely rid the weigela of the pest.

Diseases that can affect weigela:

Do not forget to mechanically remove all damaged leaves and shoots, utilizing them outside the site. Other diseases and pests do not affect weigela. The best prevention of all diseases is proper plant care.

29 times already
helped

Weigela is a deciduous shrub belonging to the Honeysuckle family. The genus includes 15 species and originates from Southeast and East Asia, three species grow in the Far East.

General description of weigela

The plant is an upright deciduous shrub. Usually its height is about 1.5 m, but there are species that reach 3 m and do not exceed a meter. Weigela leaves are elongated, with a sharp tip and pronounced veins, with a smooth or serrated edge. The color of the leaves can be both green and reddish, there are varieties with a variegated color.

The flowers are large, with a two-lipped corolla, either funnel-shaped or tubular. Their color can be white, cream, all shades of pink and red. A characteristic feature of the plant is that during flowering, the color of the corolla changes, the length of which can reach 5 cm. The flowers can be single or collected in medium-sized inflorescences located in the axils of the leaves.

If the weigela was well looked after, and the autumn is warm, it is possible to re-bloom on the tops of young shoots. True, it will not be as plentiful as the first.

Weigela is a popular ornamental and ornamental flowering plant that is widely used in landscape design, both in group plantings and as a tapeworm (single focal plant).

Weigels are propagated by seeds and vegetatively by cuttings and layering.

Vegetative propagation of weigela

The best result is obtained by propagation of weigela with semi-lignified cuttings. If you need to get a lot of young plants, you need to choose a healthy, abundantly flowering plant in advance - this will be the mother bush and its purpose is to give us the best cuttings. At the beginning of the dormant period, cut off all weak thin shoots under the root, and strong and powerful ones - to half. If you only need a few plants, cut off a few branches, cutting out the weak growth growing nearby so that the bush does not lose its decorative effect - on the side that is less visible.

The ability to form roots in shoots that have grown after pruning is much greater than that of cuttings from an unpruned plant.

During flowering, weigels cut semi-lignified cuttings from the shoots of the current year. It is better to take them from a thick, well-developed stem. When cutting, the top of the shoot is cut off only if it is not ripe. It is necessary to cut cuttings of 10-15 cm, the lower oblique cut should be 0.5 cm below the kidney, the lower leaves are cut off and treated with any root formation stimulator.

If it is necessary to root a lot of cuttings, they do it in a cold greenhouse, if not, they take a pot, pour drainage and fill it with light soil, covering the surface with a layer of sand of 2-3 cm. Then a hole is made in the soil with a wooden peg and the cuttings are planted, deepening by about 4 see. Spray the planting with a fungicide and cover with a transparent film. Put in a warm shady place.

Further care for the cuttings consists in regular airing and watering. Shelter can be removed very next spring, when the plant will give stable new shoots. Transfer to permanent place produced in a year and a half. During this time, pinch the plant several times.

It is rather difficult for a novice gardener to propagate with lignified matured cuttings of weigel.

In order to propagate weigela by layering, in the spring they find a branch located close to the ground. It is bent and the wood is cut a little along with the bark, the cut is treated with a mixture of crushed activated carbon and root, a match is inserted and added dropwise so that the cut is in the ground. Use bent electrodes or metal pins to secure the wire. next spring, but better in autumn cut off the new plant from the mother bush and plant in a permanent place.

Propagation of weigela seeds

Almost all weigellas growing in our gardens are varieties or hybrids. Their flowers are larger and have a greater palette of colors than wild species. The leaves are often purple or variegated. Flaw seed propagation is that with it, the varietal characteristics of the plant are most often not transmitted.

But if you still decide to propagate the plant with the help of seeds, remember that they lose their germination capacity very quickly. They need to be sown in early spring in boxes or pots filled with a mixture of fertile soil and sand 2: 1. The soil before sowing the seeds must be well compressed and watered, the seeds should be scattered over the surface and sprinkled thin layer sand.

Cover the sowing with glass and put in a warm place. A container with seeds must be regularly ventilated and carefully watered, preferably spraying from a spray bottle so that the seeds do not float. Seedlings should appear in 3 weeks.

When 2 true leaves appear, use a wooden stick to split the seedlings into separate pots and keep the young plant under a film at high humidity until the young plant grows again.

Sometimes weigela propagates by self-sowing, but it is usually not possible to transplant a young plant. Fruits ripen only in adult plants, which no longer require loosening the soil. Usually the soil under them is very compacted, and when trying to transplant a young plant, a still weak root is broken or damaged.

A place suitable for growing weigela

Best of all, weigela will grow in a sunny place, flowering will be scarce in the shade, and variegated or reddish leaves turn green. The plant must be protected from strong winds, as they contribute to the fall of the buds. It is best to plant the plant on the south side under the cover of walls or larger plants.

Do not plant weigela in lowlands or other blocky places - she does not like stagnant moisture at the roots.

Weigela does not require special care. But in order for the plant to be decorative and bloom profusely, it should not be left completely unattended.

Planting weigela in the ground

Choose a planting site and dig a 40x40 hole for rich, well-drained soil and a 60x60 hole for poor or too dense soil. Try not to mix the upper, fertile layer of soil, approximately a shovel bayonet deep, with the rest of the soil - we use it for planting.

If you are planting an adult weigela bought in a container, make the planting hole 10-15 cm deeper than the height of the pot. Lay drainage at the bottom - gravel or broken red brick, cover with sand. Mix fertile soil well with compost and nitroamofoska, if the soil was very dense, add peat.

Remove the plant from the container and place it in the planting hole. If the plant was with a bare root, pour a mound and gently straighten the roots. Fill the planting hole with soil so that the root neck remains at the level of the soil, it can only be deepened by 1-2 cm. Gently press the soil and water the planting abundantly. When the water is completely absorbed, add soil and mulch the near-stem circle with peat or well-rotted horse or cow manure.

The distance between weigeloi and other plants should be from 1 to 2 meters, depending on the expected size of the bush.

top dressing

In early spring, when the snow has just melted, feed the weigel with any nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen is a building material for all parts of the plant, it stimulates vegetation. Then twice, the first time during the formation of buds, and then at the end of flowering, feed the plant with a special fertilizer for flowering shrubs - it has little nitrogen, a lot of phosphorus and potassium, and trace elements are present. In late August - early September, feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, for example, potassium monophosphate - it will help the young shoots to ripen well and increase the winter hardiness of the weigela.

If you are a caring gardener or a qualified gardener works for you, make sure that weigela receives foliar feeding once every two weeks.

pruning

In the spring, sanitary pruning of the shrub is carried out - all dry and broken branches are cut off. Formative pruning is done in the middle of summer, try not to miss this time - the appearance of the shrub depends on it. Trim off stems that have stopped blooming as needed to encourage re-blooming.

Once every 3 years, you need to carry out anti-aging pruning - in early spring, cut off all the old and thickening branches at the root, shorten the rest by 1/3.

Watering

In the spring and during the flowering period, water the plant abundantly; mulching the soil around the shrub helps to retain moisture. After flowering, reduce watering, and do not forget that weigela does not like stagnant water at the roots.

Preparing for winter

The older the weigela bush, the more winter hardiness it has. In the southern regions, the plant hibernates without shelter. The further north you go, the more serious shelter you need for the winter.

After the completion of leaf fall, the root of the bush is sprinkled with a mound of earth, about 20 cm high, like a rose. If your winters are harsh, tie the branches with twine, tilt to the ground and cover with burlap or agrofibre.

If the weigela is still frozen, do not worry if the root remains alive (it is the branches that most often suffer from frost), the plant will recover fairly quickly.

Weigela can be affected by aphids, caterpillars, spider mites and thrips. Now on sale there are many drugs to combat them - both pesticides and biological remedies. Salespeople will help you find what you need.

If you are a supporter of folk remedies - use infusions of garlic, wormwood or hot pepper. Good solution of laundry soap helps in pest control.

Use a systemic fungicide to control powdery mildew and rust.

For disease prevention along with foliar top dressing treat weigela with solutions of zircon and epin.

Weigela does not bloom solely because of our mistakes - the wrong landing site, lack of top dressing and pest invasion. Treat the plant more carefully, take care of it properly and you will be rewarded with abundant and long flowering.

Weigela - rules for care and cultivation (video)

Weigela - this is the name of the shrubs of the honeysuckle family. The name of the plant was in memory of the professor of chemistry, pharmacy and botany Christian Ehrenfried von Weigel.

Weigela's homeland is East and Southeast Asia. One of the plant species wild nature found in Java, three more - in the Far East.

Botanical description of the Weigela shrub

Scientific classification of the plant:

• domain: eukaryotes;
• kingdom: plants;
• department: flower;
• class: dicotyledonous;
• order: hairy;
• family: honeysuckle.

A photo. Weigela shrub

Weigela are erect deciduous shrubs without stolons. The leaves are arranged oppositely - two at each node. The leaves are planted on a petiole (petiolate), less often - almost sessile, with serrate or serrate-serrated edges. There are no stipules. Culture is valued for color.

Flower characteristics:

• color: white, yellowish, purple, dark red.
• location: on young shoots, in leaf axils, singly or in groups of up to six;
• the presence of a pedicel: it may grow together into a common peduncle, but in some species the flowers bloom on branches;
• calyx: has five lobes, which are connected or separate at the bottom;
• corolla: tubular-campanulate or funnel-shaped, two-lipped or slightly zygomorphic, the tube is longer than the lobes.
• stamens: five pieces, shorter than the corolla;
• anthers: free or soldered under the stigma, surround style;
• style: protrudes, stigma - capitate or in the form of a cap;
• ovary: oblong, bilocular.

After flowering, a fruit is formed - a cartilaginous or woody box. Its shape is from narrow cylindrical to ovoid. At the top, the fruit tapers into a spout and opens into two flaps. The seed bearer forms a central column. Fruit seeds have an angular silhouette, often winged, small.

Popular types of weigela in Russia and photos of them

In Russia, 9 plant species are cultivated. Next - about the most popular.

Weigel Middendorf (W. Middendorffiana)

Weigel Middendorf in culture since 1850. It grows singly or in groups in the undergrowth of deciduous and coniferous forests, in cedar forests. Distribution regions - China, Japan. In Russia, it is found on Sakhalin, in the Primorsky Territory. Prefers gentle, moist slopes, hollows near streams and rivers, as well as stony placers, clearings and edges in the subalpine zone.

The shrub grows up to 100–150 cm in height. Flowers - up to 3-4 cm in diameter, yellow or sulfur-yellow, pharynx strewn with orange dots. Flowers bloom in autumn and spring (early May), flowering lasts up to 30 days.

Leaves change color in early October, leaf fall lasts up to 30 days.

Weigela Middendorf is considered the most promising in landscape design. A feature of the species is cold resistance, so it is the only one that survives and blooms in the shade. Unlike others, it grows successfully on peaty and slightly acidic soils.

Weigela early (W. Praecox)

In the wild, weigela early lives in the Ussuri region of Russia, North Korea, and China. Grows in small groups or singly on rocky slopes, forest edges.

It is a spreading shrub with dense foliage. In height reaches 2 meters. It has a gray bark, on the branches - light brown, on young shoots - reddish.

Leaves up to 7 cm long - oblong-ovate or elliptical, acute or shortly pointed. Unlike Weigela Middendorf, with an edge, especially dense with back side. At the end of September, leafy plates from bright green turn to yellow with an ocher or brown tint. The deciduous process begins in the third decade of October.

Pubescent flowers on drooping peduncles are arranged in 1-3 pieces. Coloring - violet-red, bright. The bush blooms for 10–30 days.

Weigela blooming (W. Florida)

The shrub grows in the Russian Primorye, the northern part of China, and Japan. Height reaches 3 meters.

On young shoots - 2 rows of hairs. Branches up to a year are red-brown, then gray. This is a variegated variety. The leaves are green with a white border, on a short petiole, almost sessile, from above - bare, except for the main vein. Bottom part pubescent along the veins. Bright pink flowers up to 5 cm in size are collected in inflorescences of 3-4 pieces, bloom in late May - early June and last up to 20 days.

Blooming weigela is planted in the sun or in partial shade, but in the latter case the leaves turn green. Used for single or group disembarkation. Very colorful when in bloom.

Weigela Korean (W. Coraeensis)

Weigela Korean grows up to 1.5 meters. Distributed in Japan, where it is found on the coasts. It can grow in partial shade or in open areas, it tolerates a polluted atmosphere well.

Blooms profusely throughout life. The flowers are white at first, then gradually acquire a carmine hue, collected in semi-umbrella inflorescences. The beginning of a two-week flowering occurs in June.

Weigela profusely flowering (W. Floribunda)

It is characterized by frost resistance, light-loving, rapid growth. The height of the bush is up to 3 meters. Suitable for planting in urban and industrial areas, as it tolerates air pollution with smoke and gases. The culture is planted in groups, in the form of tapeworms.

The flowers of the weigela profusely blooming are first dark carmine, then light pink, funnel-shaped, up to 3 cm in diameter. The branches are densely sprinkled with flowers, thanks to which the plant is valued as an ornamental crop.

Leaves - with a margin along the veins below, from above - smooth. Branches and shoots are also pubescent.

Weigela breeding methods

Weigela propagates both by seeds and cuttings and layering

Cultures are propagated by cuttings, layering, seeds.

Vegetative propagation (cuttings)

To do this, take:

• young or one-year-old shoots from the crown 10–12 cm long;
• young growth from a stump;
• layering.

The stem is cut at an angle. If young shoots are taken, then the leaves are removed from them completely or by half of the leaf plate, leaving only 2 upper leaves. The cuttings are cut at the end of winter, before the sap flow begins, until the leaves have blossomed.

Prepared cuttings are treated with a rooting agent, diluted in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. Cuttings are planted in the soil from a mixture of soil and sand taken in equal parts, 3–4 cm of the upper layer is also sand. Suitable dishes - a jar, a plastic bottle, and immediately into open ground. planting material deepen into the ground by 1 cm, cover plastic wrap or plastic bottles to create a greenhouse effect. Every day the cap is removed to ventilate. Roots germinate in 25-40 days.

With successful rooting, the flowering of a culture obtained from green roots occurs 2 years after planting. Reproduction by green shoots is the most effective - rooting occurs in 90% of cases, when using last year's material, the figure is slightly lower.

A month later, if rooting happened normally, a new shoot developed, pinch the top so that the bush was lush. Reproduction by shoots from a stump is carried out according to the same algorithm.

Transplantation is carried out after 18 months. They do this in early spring: then the adaptation of the culture will be successful, by winter it will get stronger enough.

layering

Weigela planted with a cutting or layering begins to bloom only in the second year

To get a seedling from layering in the spring, they find a branch that is closer to the ground than others. At the point where the ground touches the branch, the bark is scratched, treated with a root formation stimulator, sprinkled with earth. This part is cut off from the mother bush and planted.

Weigela seed propagation

There are two methods of seed propagation.

The first way is to leave the seeds under the bush, covering them with leaves, and shoots will appear by spring. Then the "bed" is thinned out, leaving only strong seedlings. A year later, young plants are transplanted into a school. But this may or may not be done.

For germination according to the second method, the seeds are dipped into fertile soil, sprinkled with sand on top and covered with glass. Shoots appear after 21 days.

Seed propagation has a disadvantage because it does not preserve the original forms. Therefore, it is preferable to use the vegetative method.

Planting site, soil

Weigela is sun-loving, with the exception of the Middendorf species. The best place for it is an illuminated meadow, next to low shrubs, if there is a need to combine several crops in the landscape. The place chosen for landing should be protected from through winds. For this, the south side of the building or exposition is suitable. Otherwise, the flowers quickly fall off. In the shade, flowering is poor, the seeds do not ripen, and the timing of flowering is shifted.

Soils should be fertile, light, without stagnant moisture, so drainage systems should be equipped nearby.

On dense soil that does not pass air well, achieve abundant flowering will not work.

The earth is loosened from the moment the snow melts until August. Mulching in late spring is useful, thanks to which the roots are protected from drying out, overheating and weeds. To do this, prepare a mixture of sawdust, wood chips, fine pebbles, pine nut shells. If you want more decorativeness, then the stores have multi-colored wood chips.

Weigela shrub care in the open field

When planting vegeils, the soil is fertilized with compost

Weigela does not require much attention. But there are a number of rules, the observance of which will help the plant take root in the middle lane and bloom profusely.

Planting rules

For planting, they dig a hole 30–40 cm deep, and on depleted soils - up to 55 cm, to add a layer of fertile soil. The earth is fertilized with 1.5 buckets of compost mixed with 100 g of nitrophoska in each pit. In addition to fertilizer, drainage is laid, which are broken bricks, gravel or sand with a layer of 15 cm.

If several bushes are planted, then the distance between them should be 1.5–2 m (at a height of 2.5 m) or from 80 cm (for bushes up to 1 m).

In the pit, the roots are straightened, the earth, after filling the pit, is rammed to eliminate voids. The root neck should be flush with the soil surface, in extreme cases, 1–2 cm lower.

After planting, the seedlings are watered abundantly, the ground around is mulched.

Top dressing of weigela shrub

At the end of May, weigela is fed with superphosphate

Weigela is fed two years after planting in three stages:

1. In early spring, full fertilizer is applied, which contains potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen (diammofoska, ammofoska, etc.). This will activate the growth of foliage and new branches.
2. When the buds are formed (end of May - June), the bush is fed with superphosphate, potassium sulfate. This will prolong flowering and give strength to the branches. Nitrogen-containing products during this period are harmful because they cause decay.
3. Potassium-containing preparations are added for digging (in accordance with the instructions) or wood ash (200 g per 1 m2). Top dressing is brought in no later than August, so that the bark becomes lignified by the cold.

pruning

In spring or early summer, dry and diseased branches are removed from the bushes. The areas where the flowers withered are shortened, garden var is applied to the sections. Formative pruning is carried out in the middle of summer. If this time is missed, then the procedure is postponed until next year.

Anti-aging pruning is carried out every three years. Remove shoots that thicken the bush, and branches older than 3 years. This stimulates the plants to sprout new shoots and prevents diseases that live in the old bark.

If you cut off all the branches, there is no big trouble: the bush is quickly restored.

Weigela does not like wet soil, so make drainage when planting, in summer the shrub needs abundant watering

The plant does not like wet soil, so drainage is needed when planting. In summer, provide abundant watering, preventing drying out. The use of mulch reduces the frequency and abundance of watering.

Preparing for winter

Young bushes after the completion of leaf fall for the winter are protected with kraft paper or spunbond. The trunk circle is sprinkled with spruce branches, dry leaves.

Adult crops are even easier to prepare for cold weather. As the leaves fall, the trunk circle is sprinkled with earth until a mound 15–20 cm high is formed. The branches are tied and bent to the ground. If there is little snow in winter, then the plant is covered with burlap, roofing material, agrospan. It is noteworthy that with age, weigela acquires greater resistance to winter cold. A frozen bush rarely dies and recovers in one or two seasons.

So that the branches do not break under the weight of snow, their late autumn tied or supported by a rack frame.

The problem is why the weigela shrub does not bloom, possible diseases and pests

If you notice aphids on a shrub, it is necessary to treat the weigela with a solution of anabazine sulfate, chlorophos

There are several factors that prevent it from turning into a flowering bush. Here they are:

• wrong place;
• rare, insufficient watering;
• pests.

ABOUT correct disembarkation and watering mentioned above. Now - a few words about pests and diseases.

Weigela is susceptible to aphid attacks. Then it is treated with a solution of anabasin sulfate, chlorophos. If these are not available, use folk remedies against the pest - infusions of onions, garlic. Wash the plant with a soapy or alcohol solution.

They love caterpillar leaves, spider mites and thrips. Rogor, Keltan, Nitrafen are used against them. These are pesticides that harm the environment. A "natural" alternative to chemistry is an aqueous infusion of bitter pepper, wormwood, the same garlic.

Together with the compost, the larvae of the bear or the cockchafer sometimes get into the soil. They eat up the roots, which makes the weigela wither and dry. Then Aktara is used (instructions on proportions are in the instructions).

Weigela - bright plant, which will make the garden picturesque, cozy, colorful. At proper care, to which no special requirements are imposed, the culture pleases the eye for many years.

Watch the video on this weigel shrub, in this video the grower will show and talk about three species, we wish you a pleasant viewing.