To help the gardener: planting trees in the fall. When is the best time to plant seedlings: in spring or autumn When to plant trees in autumn

Our location, land and climate are perfect for growing fruit trees, and for planting space with the help of needles. It is a sin not to take advantage of the advantages of such a land and not create a wild celebration of greenery in your yard.

Ideal for our climate is considered planting trees in autumn. If a young seedling survives the winter, it will absolutely delight us with beautiful foliage, fruits or needles.

What do you need to know in order to plant trees in Ukraine in the fall to be successful? This includes meeting deadlines, and proper feeding, etc. So let's take a closer look at each type. necessary work for the settlement of the future garden.

Planting Trees in the Fall: Timing and Fertilization

In our latitudes best time for planting young plants is considered autumn period. At this time of the year, the earth is quite loose and saturated with moisture. Planting trees in autumn promotes better “engraftment” of roots. AT autumn season in the root system, wounds are well healed and a drop is formed. Plants planted during the rainy season will avoid drought and will grow well in the spring.

If you do similar work in spring period, young seedlings will fall into extreme conditions- poor soil mineralization and lack of water can destroy roots that have not yet taken root. Planting fruit trees in the fall will provide the necessary conditions for orchard survival.

The closer to winter, the more perennials require mineral fertilizers. In no case should planting trees in autumn be accompanied by the use of nitrogen fertilizers. Such compounds stimulate growth, improve the flow of juices to the branches. Intensive growth of cells in the pre-winter period will lead to the fact that the plant will not have time to “go into hibernation”. Freezing in this case is inevitable.

Planting trees in autumn allows soil fertilization with minerals(for example, ash), intervening in it a little organic matter (for example, manure). Do not under any circumstances use bird droppings It is almost pure nitrogen.

Planting trees in autumn is carried out from mid-October. perfect time- the rainy season with relatively warm temperature air and earth.

If for some reason it is impossible to land with the onset of rains and it is planned for early spring, it is advisable to prepare places for future plantings: dig holes, fertilize with minerals, loosen the ground a little. After the winter, the prepared pits will be an excellent soil for the rapid establishment of the root system.

Planting conifers in autumn

The technology for planting coniferous perennials is very simple. It is enough to dig a hole slightly larger than the root of the seedling. Most often, the soil is not impregnated with fertilizers and is not loosened. It is worth remembering that the needles do not like organics, the exception is peat. Good survival rate provides high-quality deep watering. Planting trees in the fall will provide enough moisture.

Acceptable distance between seedlings- at least 2-3 meters. non-compliance given condition will lead to the formation of a "forest of Baba Yaga" with a bunch of crooked, half-dried trees. On the other hand, such a planting of trees in the fall will certainly please horror movie fans with the result :)

Let there be a fruitful garden!

Landing fruit trees in autumn requires compliance with several rules:

1. A stake must be driven into each prepared hole. The peg is driven in as far as possible from the center of the hole on the south side. With this placement in the spring, it will serve as a small shield from the sun, that is, it will protect the young bole from burns. Planting trees in the fall with pegs will prevent the poles from twisting. The ideal peg is a thin board without bark 1.2-1.5 m long.
2. Before planting, it is advisable to compact the soil near the stake (press it with your foot) and leave it to “shrink” for 3-5 days.
3. It is necessary to plant plants no later than a month before the onset of frost.

Further landing garden trees in autumn it consists in fertilizing the soil with minerals, placing a seedling root system in a hole, digging in and watering the tree. At the end of the work, the seedling is tied to a peg.

Every spring, all gardeners are overcome by "planting disease". It begins as soon as the snow melts, and it is hardly possible to get rid of its symptoms until the end of May. Occasionally there are summer residents who do not run around the markets and nurseries in the spring in search of seedlings - they planted everything in the fall. So when is the best time to plant trees - in the fall or in the spring?

When can trees be planted?

Theoretically, trees can be planted all year round as long as the ground is not frozen. The most important thing for a planted tree is the fullest possible contact of the roots with the ground. If the soil is frozen, it will not be possible to compact it enough to provide such contact. If the roots of the tree hang in the void, it will not be able to replenish the moisture evaporated above-ground part. After all, the fact that trees “sleep” in winter does not mean that they do not lose moisture.

If you plant a tree in the middle of summer, for example, the biggest problem will again be increased evaporation of moisture, which, however, can be replenished with frequent watering.

Thus, trees can be successfully planted at any time of the year.

The main thing is to land correctly and provide thorough care. True, why create additional difficulties for yourself and the seedling, if there are optimal planting dates that reduce these difficulties to a minimum?

When is the best time to plant trees?

The period of physiological or forced rest, when the trees "sleep" in anticipation favorable conditions for vegetation, and is optimal for planting. Hibernation begins as soon as trees will fall foliage, and lasts until the opening of the kidneys. The tree does not care when exactly during this period it will be planted. However, there are a number of factors that are important for the gardener. Let's consider these factors in more detail.
Cons and pros autumn planting

So, consider the reasons why you should not plant trees in the fall:
If the winter is exceptionally cold (as it was literally two years ago), the planted trees may freeze slightly. In addition, they can be damaged by heavy snow, ice, wind and other weather disasters.
Trees planted in the fall can be damaged by rodents or simply stolen if your garden is left unattended during the winter.

At the same time, there are significant advantages of autumn planting seedlings:
In autumn, there is a rich choice of planting material, since it is during this period that nurseries begin selling seedlings.
If you plant trees in autumn, one watering will be enough, coolness and frequent rains will take care of your pets even without your participation.
If the winter is not too severe, the soil will not freeze to the depth of the roots. In this case, the planted tree will grow suction roots over the winter and heal the wounds caused by the transplant.
In the spring, the gardener-gardener has a lot of work: he needs not only to plant trees, but also to take care of the old garden, prepare the garden for planting, and so on and so forth. It's not so bad to do something in advance, freeing up time for other worries.

As you can see, there are more pluses in the autumn planting than minuses. So if you've been planting trees in the fall, keep doing the same. Now let's see if you should succumb to the "planting disease" in the spring and plant a couple more seedlings.

Should I plant trees in the spring or not?

Why is it problematic to plant trees in spring:
During spring planting, it is necessary to water the seedling twice: during planting and a day later, loosen the ground and cover with mulch. Further, you will also have to water the planted tree often, especially if the weather is hot or windy.
If the spring planting is late, then the planted tree will have a significantly reduced chance of surviving. If the tree has not yet taken as it should, and the sap flow has already begun, then it will only come out by providing special care, which not every amateur gardener can do.
In the spring, the market for planting material is poor - much is sold out in the fall.

Benefits of planting trees in spring:
During the winter, you have the opportunity to prepare theoretically, draw up a planting plan, on the basis of which you can already order seedlings - there will be no hasty decisions.
Winter is not such a “dead” season for a gardener: you can prepare pits, tools, and generally put the garden in order without rushing.
If you can't secure the site, you won't have to worry about planting trees all winter.
If you plant trees in the spring, they get one more year of vegetation - if you plant in the fall, you would have a crop a year later.

As you can see, there are more pluses here. So, if your “hands itch” to plant a tree, plant without looking back at those who mumble that it’s not right. That's right, this way, and that way. After weighing all the pros and cons, choose the most suitable time for you to plant trees.

Be sure to take into account the local weather and features. Residents of the southern regions, of course, are better off planting trees in the fall. There, the autumn is long and warm, and the spring is too quickly replaced by a hot summer. And the northerners better watch out for the harsh winter and plant trees in the spring. However, if you did not have time to plant something in March-April, postpone it until the fall. And if you don’t have time in the fall, fill in the gap next spring. Most importantly, plant trees and take care of them with love!

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How to plant a tree?

I hope you don’t think that planting a tree means digging a hole, sticking a seedling in there and filling it with earth?

In scientific terms, for a successful planting process, a number of rules must be followed under which the tree could form an active functional root system as quickly as possible, i.e. so that it takes root and receives the necessary substances and moisture for the development of the crown.

I wanted to talk about these rules, and for this you need to answer 3 questions, namely, what? as? when? Almost? where? when?)

What to consider when buying, unless of course you buy this seedling, and do not dig it up in the forest or in a neighboring area. I think it's worth highlighting a few simple rules:

Acquire in a specialized horticultural economy or a large firm, where you can get the necessary advice.

It is desirable that there be a label indicating the variety and breed.

So that the seedling does not have any distortions of the crown, a crooked trunk, an uneven distribution of branches along the trunk. And at least there must be 3 skeletal branches.

There should be no signs of injury or disease.

If the seedling is in a container, then the roots should not break through the drainage hole.

If the seedling is in a package, then the earthen ball should be dense and proportional to the above-ground part.

Seedlings with an open root system should not have damage on the roots, signs of disease, the roots should not be overdried. And also all the leaves of such seedlings must be removed.

When to plant? Here I see two options:

In autumn. The leaves have fallen off and the tree does not need to spend energy on feeding the crown, so it is engaged in the development of a new habitat. But one thing - planted in the fall winter-hardy varieties, such as apple, pear, berry and ornamental shrubs.

Spring. More heat-loving varieties are best planted in early spring otherwise they will not have enough time to prepare for the winter. This applies to apricots, cherries, plums, cherry plums, low-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.

The time of planting a large-sized plant differs from, for example, the planting of lilac, which is planted from the second half of July to the beginning of September.

P.S. In this case, I meant the landing time in those areas where summer and relatively good weather lasts only 3-4 months.

P.P.S. Seedlings in containers can be planted in the summer, the main thing is that the roots are not overdried.

And now the landing itself, only 9 stages:

Designate a landing site. Here we think and plan the development of the future tree for years to come, so that it does not interfere with anything and has the opportunity to grow unhindered. We outline a place and designate a pit, which should be 2 times as wide as an earthen clod with roots.

Dig a hole. We separate the top excavated fertile layer from the bottom and pour them on opposite sides of the pit.

Loosen the bottom of the hole. This is done in order to make it easier for the roots to go deeper into the lower layers of the soil.

Fertilize planting soil. The top layer of soil that we separated is diluted with mature compost or humus (Where to prepare compost can be found here). Add more pre-cooked fertile soil and mineral fertilizers. The lower unused layer of soil can be used to fill holes in the area, if any)

Drive in the stake. We install the support even before planting so as not to damage the roots, as a rule, it is needed for large plants.

Place the seedling in the hole. At the bottom of the pit we pour a little prepared earth and set the seedling vertically. At the same time, we do not sink the root system into the soil (we do not bury it), the root ball of the earth should only be lightly sprinkled with earth on top. After all work, the level of the soil in landing pit taking into account the future draft, it should be about 5 centimeters higher than the level of the rest of the site.

Fill the hole with earth. I think it is obvious that before filling the hole, you need to remove what the root ball of the earth was wrapped in, it can be burlap, paper, etc.

Tie the seedling to the support. In the form of a figure eight, tie a seedling to the support with soft twine. The twine should not cut hard into the bark of the tree.

Water the plant well. We compact the earth around the trunk, and along the edges of the pit we make a roller for irrigation. We water the near-trunk circle well (so that the roots come into contact with the soil), after which we sprinkle (mulch) it with peat or humus by 5 cm.

How to plant a fruit tree?

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When is the right time to plant trees and shrubs?

It is preferable to plant deciduous trees at the time of the vegetation break, that is, in early spring before the leaves bloom or in the fall after the foliage has fallen.

The best time for autumn planting is mid-September and all of October, but you should focus on specific weather conditions.

Spring planting is carried out after thawing of the soil, which in temperate latitudes usually occurs in mid-April - early May.

On wet, heavy and compacted soils, it is recommended to plant trees in the spring.

In areas with early harsh winters, it is also preferable to plant seedlings in the spring.

Heat-loving trees and shrubs are planted in the spring after late spring frosts, since when planted in autumn, they may not survive the winter.

When planting trees in the spring, you need to make sure that the ground has thawed and does not have frozen areas.

Conifers and evergreens should be planted late autumn, in late summer or early autumn, so that they have time to take root and in winter time fed the above-ground part with moisture.

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Pit preparation and seedling planting

Regardless of whether the summer resident has acquired empty land or has long been the owner of a chic plot, planting fruit trees will not blow anyone. Some will create the garden of their dreams, others will rejuvenate it. All work must be carried out according to the rules and within a certain time frame.

About the rules and terms of planting fruit trees

To Orchard developed well, its bookmark is carried out taking into account rationalism, acting in the following sequence:

• first determine optimal location for each seedling;
• carry out preplant preparation of the site;
• mark places for each tree;
• dig holes and plant plants in them;
• watered and pruned.

When choosing a landing site, you should consider the location of the neighboring site. Tall trees cannot be planted near adjacent fences - they will obscure someone else's territory. You should not place them near buildings either - in the future, the branches will lie on the roof and can damage the roof.

Fruit trees

It will also be inconvenient to prune such trees and harvest from them. In addition, there is additional (labor-intensive) work to collect fallen leaves. If it is not removed from the roof in time, then this leaf fall will begin to rot there.

Dwarf trees, like shrubs, can be safely placed under vigorous crops (apple and pear trees). They will not interfere with each other in development.

Nice neighborhood

When choosing crops for their garden, stone and seed breeds are located separately from each other at a considerable distance (as far as garden plot). This will facilitate the fight against diseases of fruit trees and pests.

When choosing a neighborhood, consider the compatibility of plants:

• the apple tree gets along well with pears, plums, quince, cherries; next to some shrubs (currant, barberry, viburnum, mock orange, lilac), the culture feels uncomfortable;
• it is better to plant a pear with their own kind and apple trees, trying to avoid proximity to the already mentioned shrubs - they oppress culture in the same way as plums;
• cherry trees are best planted separately from other fruit trees, this will provide a better harvest.

On a note! The binding to the "wind rose" is important. Peaches, apricots and cherries are best planted in southern, southwestern directions. For the rest, the northern side of the site is most comfortable. Although in this case it is worth considering also the region.

So, in the Moscow region and other areas middle lane In Russia, most often the western and northwestern patches of the site are assigned to the garden. Southerners prefer exclusively the north - this way you can protect the trees from overheating.

In the northern zone, of course, the most appropriate place- southern corner of the cottage. Not a single specialist allocates the eastern allotment for a garden plantation, leaving it for building a house.

Note! When choosing a place, you need to take into account the relief. You should not plant a slope with a garden if it is too steep - the fertile layer will constantly be washed out from under the roots. It is also worth ignoring the lowlands, where melt water accumulates in spring, and the wood is damaged by fragments of sliding ice.

Tree transplant

You can grow a garden in one place for decades. But sometimes there comes a time when it is necessary to transplant fruit trees to another site. Only viable plants suitable for fruiting are selected.

To plant mature tree to a new place, it is prepared for the “move” in advance. 1-2 years before that, a groove is dug around the plant, located along the circumference of the crown. The width of the recess is 0.3-0.4 m, the depth is 0.8-1 m. This work is done in early spring.

In the process, the roots are exposed, which are cut off from common system. Sections are treated with clay-earth talker, to which a growth stimulator should also be added.

The ditch is sprinkled with earth mixed with humus, and watered abundantly. With this moment and before digging, many fibrous processes form on the roots around the trunk. With their help, the plant will take root in a new place.

During such transplants, the main difficulty lies in extracting the tree from the old pit. To do everything neatly, you will have to use the leverage system. The removed plant is immediately transferred to a new place, where a spacious pit has already been prepared for it.

Transfer fruit tree

It is best to transplant trees no older than 5 years. But this option is not for everyone. cultivated plants. In order to preserve the variety of cherries, plums, pears, apple trees, it is better to graft them on more young tree. There are 3 main methods of grafting: budding, cuttings, ablactation, allowing you to save (or improve) the variety.

Timing

Each summer resident determines the landing time for himself. April is suitable for some - the first decade of May, others are more satisfied with October. AT recent times such enthusiasts have also appeared that they plant fruit trees in the summer.

Note! The laws of fruit growing recommend planting stone fruits in spring, and pome fruits in autumn.

But experienced gardeners argue that this condition should not be so strictly adhered to. The main thing in planting garden trees is to follow the rules of agricultural technology and maintain the crop placement pattern.

Best time to plant: spring or fall

Beginning summer residents often wonder when it is better to plant fruit trees: in spring or autumn. To choose the best time for garden work First of all, you should take into account the climatic region:

Having chosen a suitable month for planting work, it is recommended to look into Moon calendar, which is published annually in periodicals to help "junior horticulture". The astrological document contains best days when planting fruit crops is recommended.

Do not ignore this information, because they have been using this method since ancient times (and not only in Russia). The moon actively influences all biological processes occurring on Earth, this fact has been proven by science.

Planting fruit trees in summer

Among modern summer residents there are those who do not like the investigator to stereotypes. They also practice planting garden trees in the summer. Moreover, in present time this can be done without harming the trees.

An earlier argument against summer period was hot weather preventing normal rooting. But then the seedlings were sold exclusively with an open root system, which, indeed, is more comfortable to take root at a low temperature in well-moistened soil.

Now nurseries sell trees in containers with soil mixture, and the plant is no longer so important at what temperature it is sent to the pit. The roots are quite well protected and do not dry out.

soil mixture

If an automated rationed irrigation system has been laid on the site, then summer is even more preferable for planting. June is considered a suitable month. You need to choose days based on the phases of the moon. You should wait for the second or third quarter of the activity of the night star in order to plant seedlings of fruit trees.

The soil temperature is also taken into account. If it is above 25 degrees Celsius, landing work in summer it should be carried out either early in the morning (at 6-8 o'clock), or late in the evening, but before sunset. This will keep the root system from burning and enable the plant to better adapt.

Experienced gardeners highlight the following advantages of summer tree planting:

• you can quickly choose the right one planting material– in summer there is no such influx of farmers in nurseries;
• during the growing season it is easier to evaluate all the advantages of the purchased trees;
• summer planting seedlings have time to take root before the cold weather and are more resistant to winter than those planted in autumn.

Important! In order for young trees to endure winter frosts, during summer planting, all ovaries that have appeared on the plant should be removed. Otherwise, they will take the extra juices from the seedling onto themselves and weaken it.

Conditions for planting seedlings

The rules for planting fruit trees are common for all seasons. Therefore, the gardener just needs to follow these instructions:

• pits are prepared in advance - 2 weeks before planting seedlings; this is necessary so that the excavated earth has time to ventilate;
• the size of the excavation is determined by the type of soil and the type of fruit trees;
• the walls are drawn up vertically, and the bottom is loosened on the bayonet of a shovel;
• when forming a hole upper layer land is laid separately from the bottom - it will need to be mixed with organic fertilizers (peat, manure, compost, humus) and laid on the bottom;
• before the seedling is lowered into the pit, the roots are dipped in a mash (clay mortar with the addition of earth);
• in the center of the pit, it is desirable to drive a one and a half meter pointed stake, straight and smooth;
• when planting a tree, it should be on the north side of the stake;
• the roots are straightened and sprinkled with earth;
• then the seedling is shaken, and the soil is slightly crushed; so repeat until the pit is filled with earth;
• when subsidence, the condition is observed - the root collar should rise 3-4 centimeters above the ground;
• having tied a tree to a stake with a soft cloth, several holes are made along the edge of the pit, through which the plant is watered abundantly.

Note! If there is a close occurrence on the site ground water, then a layer of fertilized earth is not simply poured into the pit, but a ridge mound is formed from it, a seedling is lowered onto it.

On this spring and summer planting can be considered complete. At autumn work the final stage is mulching the near-stem circle with non-acidic peat or compost, 10 cm thick.

Soil acidity

An important role in the laying of the garden is played by mechanical and chemical composition soil. The roots of fruit trees need a suitable nutrient medium and comfortable conditions.

The most important parameter for agrarians is the ratio of cations and anions in the soil solution (pH reaction). These elements determine the acidity of the soil, which is indicated by the pH value.

Soil reaction is divided into 3 types: acidic, neutral and alkaline. The most promising land with a neutral pH of 6-7. But slightly acidic soil (pH 5-6) and slightly alkaline (pH 7-8) are quite suitable for a number of horticultural crops.

Increased acidity can be observed in regions with excessive precipitation (for example, the Leningrad and Moscow districts). A high alkaline level is more characteristic of hot dry areas.

Fruit trees

If the summer resident is not sure about the acidity of the soil in his area, he can take measurements with a potentiometer or use litmus paper. It will tell you the condition of the soil and the composition of the weeds growing there:

• for a neutral reaction, garden water is typical, field bindweed, creeping wheatgrass, chamomile;
• on the hyperacidity indicate white-bearded, mountaineer, chickweed, mullein, pikulnik, plantain, horsetail, sorrel.

Ameliorants will help improve the property of the land. Acidity can be lowered with lime, and increased with gypsum.

Planting in clay soil

Alone horticultural crops preference is given to sandy soils, others take root well on clay soils, others are not particularly demanding of this factor. Many fruit trees do not tolerate heavy clay and depleted sandy soils. Sandstones and loams are optimal for them.

The features of planting trees and the frequency of irrigation depend on the mechanical composition. The hardest thing is for farmers with clay soil. In such soil, it is difficult for plant roots to breathe. The density of the soil contributes to the long-term retention of moisture, which in the rainy season provokes the development of fungal diseases.

clay soil

An indicator of a heavy mechanical composition are dandelions, bluegrass, goose cinquefoil, creeping ranunculus. Having found such a “community” of weeds on your site, it is necessary to carry out sanding before planting the seedlings: during the preliminary digging of the site, river sand is added to the soil.

Clay soil is called structureless - it has an almost uniform composition. This interferes with water permeability. Therefore, such soil requires careful digging and regular loosening. Making this soil structural will allow the introduction organic fertilizers during the preparation of the site for planting seedlings.

On a note! The introduction (along with fertilizers) of chopped straw or sawdust into a pit for planting fruit trees will help bring the soil composition closer to loams.

A novice summer resident, in order to grow a chic garden on clay, should take into account the advice of experienced farmers:

• digging clay area before planting, seedlings are carried out twice: six months before digging holes and again 10 days before the main work;
• the depth of the hole under the tree is less than in fertile soil;
• clay talker for the roots in this case is not used;
• it is better to cover a seedling lowered into a pit with imported soil mixed with fertilizers;
• after planting the tree, the earth is not pressed hard so that it does not compact.

Growing fruit trees will be the more successful, the more attentively the summer resident treats the conditions of agricultural technology. Important right choice places, taking into account the composition of the soil, the definition optimal time and compliance with planting habits. This is the only way to get a good harvest.

Many experienced gardeners plant fruit trees with equal success in autumn and spring. True, it is believed that the autumn planting of fruit trees is suitable mainly for the southern regions, for Siberia and the Urals (there, freshly planted plants from fierce winter frosts protected by solid snow cover). For northern and central regions more suitable spring planting- in extreme cases, the stems of seedlings are strengthened, hilling them for the upcoming winter.

When to plant?

The main rule of landing is that it should be carried out during the rest period. In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep. The second dormant period lasts longer, and this is already a point in favor of the autumn planting.

In the spring - this is the time from thawing the soil to the start of active sap flow, in the fall - after leaf fall, in preparation for winter sleep

But usually the choice of gardeners is influenced by the fact that in autumn the range of seedlings offered by nurseries is much richer than in spring, and prices are usually more attractive. And it makes little sense to buy seedlings in the fall and leave them in a prikope until spring - the climate in last years unpredictable, and abnormally warm, and abnormally Cold winter could be fatal for such a winter.

toliam1 FORUMHOUSE Consultant

Both I and my clients plant everything only in the fall. Before winter is far away, the seedlings have time to get used to the ground, in warm winter Root growth is also possible. And in the spring immediately "to battle." When planting in the spring, one season is lost.

What to plant?

Planting trees in autumn has its own characteristics. For her, it is better to choose 1-2 year old seedlings with mature shoots - then the likelihood increases that the plant will endure the winter better. The shoots of the seedling along the entire length should be lignified, with fully formed buds.

Three-year-old seedlings are sold less often, but it’s for the better: at this age, the apple tree already has pretty decent roots, and when the plant is dug up for sale, they have to be severely cut. That is, serious wounds are inflicted on the tree, and it takes root much worse.

lulu FORUMHOUSE user

The older the apple tree, the longer and thicker its roots, the more wounds are inflicted during digging.

Zoned and winter-hardy varieties of fruit trees are suitable for autumn planting, for example, Siberian and Ural selection.

How well a plant will take root depends on the condition of the root system. Unfortunately, many have encountered the fact that plum or cherry seedlings freeze even during transportation to the country house, because their absorbent roots do not tolerate temperatures as low as +3 - +4 degrees. Unlike seedlings with ACS, seedlings with a closed root system practically do not suffer during planting (in fact, this is the same transshipment, and often plants hardly even notice it). But seedlings with ZKS must be of high quality: root system tightly held in a coma of earth, but did not braid it around, the seedling is not removed from the container easily and freely. It happens, unfortunately, and so, the seller does not grow a seedling in a container, but places it there before planting.

Tatuniki FORUMHOUSE user

When buying a seedling with ZKS, you should check if it grew in a pot, or if it was stuffed there before selling.

If you are not sure about the quality of such a seedling, it is better to buy good seedling with OKS.

The optimal time for the autumn planting of a fruit tree is two, or better, three weeks before frost. Depending on the region, this may be either the end of September or the end of October. During the “rest period”, the aerial part of the tree stops growing, but the roots grow until the soil temperature is higher than +4 degrees. It turns out that if you guess with the planting date, then before the onset of frost, new trees in your garden will have time to grow absorbent roots. And this means that in the spring they will begin to grow earlier than those planted in the spring, and the traditional spring vagaries of the weather will be met already strengthened.

If the roots of the seedling have dried up, it will be necessary to hold them in water for a day before planting.

How to plant?

FORUMHOUSE user Tamara Nikolaev plants fruit according to all the rules of horticultural science: with an assistant, in well-prepared pits measuring 1.5x1.3. And on average, the dimensions of the landing pits are usually as follows:

For trees on vigorous rootstocks:
120x80 cm (apple and pear),
100x60 cm (plums and cherries).
For semi-dwarf and dwarf:
80x50 cm.
The pit for the seedling with the ZKS should be twice as large as the container.

To protect against spring waterlogging, Tamara pours 30-40 cm of expanded clay at the bottom of the pit and prepares the soil in advance:

-3 buckets of rotted manure;
- 1 bucket of "native" soil;
- 2 buckets of good vegetable soil.

Any trees can be planted in such soil, and in the first year there will be no need to feed them. When preparing the soil, we must forget the phrase " nitrogen fertilizers”- and we remember that they include chicken and other bird droppings. In general, fertilizers must be applied very carefully when planting, as they can burn the roots. You can separate them from the roots with a layer of neutral soil, or you can not make them at all - wait until the trees "come to life" and bring them into the punctures. Sometimes it is recommended to apply peat - FORUMHOUSE experts say that it acidifies the soil, therefore, before applying, it will definitely need to be deoxidized.

Landing Tamara does this: expanded clay is poured into the bottom of the pit, leveling it; on top of a third of the pit, he adds the prepared soil, compacts it, spills it with water, pours the dry soil into a mound, gently spreads the roots over it.

The root neck of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .

A board is placed on top of the pit and the level of the root neck is checked - it should be located EXACTLY at the level of the board. That is, the root collar of the planted seedling should be located exactly at the level of the soil, not deeper and not higher. .

lulu FORUMHOUSE user

Look at the place where the trunk ends and the roots begin directly. This point of transition of the trunk to the roots should be at ground level. Strictly.

If the root neck is located high, the roots will be exposed, and over time the apple tree will dry out. If you deepen it, then it will constantly get wet and rot. Such a tree will turn green and even bloom, but you will not wait for the fruits from it.

After checking the level of the root collar, the assistant fills the hole with prepared soil and compacts it, then, regardless of the weather (let the soil settle quickly), the tree is well watered, decorated trunk circles and mulch them with peat.

Let's go back to the root neck again. Beginning gardeners often confuse it with grafting. There is such a gardening trick: take a damp cloth and rub it on the seedling where the root goes into the trunk. You will see a place where the brown root turns into a greenish trunk. This is exactly what this place is about.

When planting seedlings, it is important how the groundwater level is located on your site, and what is the composition of the soil. If the GWL is close, the roots of your young trees may be in the water. In principle, this can be avoided.