The question of when to open roses in spring is very important for plants. This is a crucial period that determines their future state. The flowering of roses lasts until the first frost, the shelter protects the bushes from the cold and creates the conditions for an early entry into growth in the spring. Depends on the timely removal of protection abundant flowering, flower development.
It is important to clearly define the timing when you can open roses after winter shelter. With a belated process, the flowers swell from excess moisture from melting snow. With early - able to die from return frosts. You can open roses after the snow has gone and the risk has passed extreme cold. Hibernation roses ends with spring warming. Their buds swell, but the roots that are in the frozen ground are not yet included in the work. Therefore, in mid-March, snow is thrown on the bushes, in April - it is removed. For each type of roses there are nuances in spring care.
A sign for the removal of shelter is the thawing of the soil. In the middle zone of the country, this happens after April 10-15. It is important to know at what temperature to open roses:
When the soil under the roses in the shelter thaws to a depth of 20-30 cm, the protection can be sequentially removed. Do this in the evening to avoid sunburn of young shoots and drying them out by the wind. On the initial stage slightly open the ends of the shelter, the next day - the northern and eastern sides. On the third day, the structure is completely eliminated and the roses are shaded with paper or spruce branches.
Not all inexperienced flower growers know when to open after winter and how to do it correctly. Often, such low-growing and ground-covering varieties in autumn are highly covered with soil or sand, covered with spruce branches, foliage, sawdust, covered from above frame material. When to open climbing roses in spring:
Decorative ones are tall and have an extensive crown. For the winter they are bent down, dug in, covered with arcs covered with cardboard, roofing material. spring standard roses require special attention. They are raised only after thawing and warming up of the soil, when the roots begin to work. When asked when to open standard roses, experienced flower growers give advice to do this from the end of April. The process takes place in several stages:
Often, for the propagation of roses for the winter, cuttings are added in the garden and covered with jars - this is how a micro-greenhouse is created. Care is timely watering, sprouts on the plant appear in about a month. For the winter, the vessel must additionally be covered with fallen leaves, grass, tops from the garden. When asked when it is possible to open roses from under a jar on next year, experienced flower growers advise doing this later - at the end of May, when stable heat comes, you can not open them until the summer.
After opening the bushes, you need to carry out proper care for roses in open ground:
Survive the winter successfully helps roses in the garden shelter, which is usually arranged in the middle of autumn. And in the spring comes the time when to take it off. open roses should be done very carefully, in several steps, because not only are these gentle creatures afraid of frost, but also the bright spring sun.
In printed sources and calendars horticultural work they write that roses are in spring start to open already in March. In the first spring month, shelters are recommended to be removed gradually, mainly in warm but cloudy weather (or in the evening). In April, shelters are completely removed not only from roses, but also from heat-loving shrubs and vines.
In practice (we will learn this from the videos on youtube), it turns out that it is better to remove shelters from roses in April, and in the middle or at the end of the month. In the first decade of April, the ground is still quite frozen. Amateur gardeners determine the time when it is time to open roses, as follows:
Gardeners advise not to rush to completely remove shelters after winter: let roses are better a little more doze than burn in the sun.
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It is necessary to accustom roses to warm spring air and the sun gradually. It is best to do this on cloudy, windless days or in the evening to protect against sunburn.
Attention! Flower growers often complain: they opened roses in the spring, and the bush was healthy. But the next morning it turned black. This is about sunburn. Do not rush to remove winter shelters entirely. Cover the bushes with spruce branches to create a light shade (the spandbond is no longer needed).
Having removed the winter shelter completely, gardeners carefully examine the plants. Dry leaves, all plant debris should be removed from the soil so that the roots "breathe". It is very important to carry out cosmetic and sanitary pruning - some of the shoots can be damaged by frost.
Dead branches are cut out completely. Damaged shoots are cut to a healthy part so that at least 1 cm remains above the bud. Slices are smeared with garden pitch.
After the final thawing of the soil, the bushes are unraveled, and climbing and standard roses are lifted and fixed on supports.
However, statistics show that most of the dead rose bushes doesn't fade, but fades. And to prevent this from happening, it is necessary to take care of the flower garden in March.
Main spring worries in the rosary consist of:
To decide when to open roses after winter in the Moscow region or other regions, it is necessary to clearly understand the processes that occur inside rose bushes.
Modern varieties of roses do not have a dormant period, this is the reason for such a long autumn bloom. But low temperatures artificially force the plant to “calm down”. However, modern winters, with temperature fluctuations, allow rose bushes to sometimes “wake up”, which negatively affects their body.
The same thing happens with spring warmth. It is enough for the temperature on the thermometer to rise to zero, as the rose bush immediately reacts to this.
For a grower, 0 ᵒС is a signal that the bushes are ajar. Remove the spruce branches, stir up the covering material, allow the bushes to breathe, get used to the sun's rays and gradually rising temperatures.
To decide when to open roses in the spring after winter shelters, you need to look at the shoots of rose bushes. When the juices move, the shoot becomes dense, juicy, and the pink buds are filled with moisture. This is the moment not to be missed.
During the winter, the material that was used to hill the bushes was compacted, compacted, and now the time has come to stir it up. If the snow has already melted and the earth, having warmed up in the sun, becomes wet, then it is time to remove the material for hilling. Do not delay this process, with a rapid increase in temperature, the lower kidneys may rot.
You will remove sawdust, peat, soil from under the bushes, everything that the bushes were covered with. Do not leave it in the flower garden, sometimes it serves as a wintering ground for pests and pathogens, so it must be removed and placed in deep composting.
If you are thinking about how to save roses in the spring correctly, then you need to understand that a rose is a living material and death. natural process. Experienced flower growers consider that a waste of 15% is the norm. However, having only a few bushes, we try to protect each of them, and with proper care, we succeed.
On examination Special attention it is necessary to give to the lower buds, because it is they who will give the very first and strong growth, the strongest shoots and the most beautiful flower.
Growing roses, outdoor care for beginners seems difficult. However, doing everything in a timely manner, regularly, consistently, you can achieve that the roses will be healthy and lush.
Inspecting the shoots, pay attention to the middle part. If in this place the buds are swollen and ready to "explode", then it's time to treat the wintering stages of pests and diseases.
Many flower growers carry out autumn pruning of roses. However, winter frosts damage some of the shoot, so in the spring it is carried out again.
Pruning is carried out to healthy tissue of those shoots that will serve as the skeleton of the bush. Broken, weak and thin shoots are cut out at the very base of the bush.
When pruning the shoot, it is necessary to pay attention to the kidney, over which the manipulation is carried out. This kidney should not be directed into the bush, but outward, which prevents the center from overgrowing.
When the bushes are cut, the covering material is removed and the one with which the bushes were hilled, you can start spraying.
The processing of rose bushes is best done after waiting for a few fine, sunny days. At this time, insects and pests, having warmed up in the sun, begin to leave their winter shelters, and here comes the moment when contact acaricidal preparations can cope with them quickly and efficiently.
Loosen the ground around the bushes, thus helping the insects to get out, and treat it with pesticides first. Next, loosen the ground again and process the entire rose bush, capturing the surrounding areas as well.
If there is more than one rose bush, then all roses must be processed at the same time, avoiding dry places.
Spraying is carried out in calm, clear weather, adhering to the rules for working with pesticides.
When choosing preparations than to spray roses in the spring after opening, you need to give preference to highly effective agrochemicals. In early spring, it is not yet possible to treat plants with means biological protection, since they only work at temperatures above 12ᵒ C, and night frosts can completely inactivate them.
In order to carry out preventive spraying from dusters and cicadas, a 0.2% solution of the Aktara preparation can be used during this period. Having dissolved 2 g in one liter of water, such a solution is enough to process 2 - 3 bushes, taking into account the processing of the soil.
It is necessary to carry out spraying and against powdery mildew and gray mold. 6 g of the drug "Horus" dissolved in 5 liters of water will do an excellent job with this task.
Experienced flower growers use copper-containing preparations, but the frequency of treatments increases significantly. The first treatment as soon as the snow melts, and then every 10 days.
Melt water carried nutrients, especially nitrogenous, from under the rose bushes. And for the start and enhanced growth, it is precisely nitrogenous compounds that are needed, therefore our task, at the first opportunity, is to restore the balance of nutrients in the circumference of the root system of the rose bush.
If the spring waters everything with rain, there is no need to dissolve fertilizers. Ammonium nitrate and ammonium sulfate can be scattered under the bushes at the rate of 30 g per m 2 of area. If the melt water is gone, and no rain is expected, then there is a need to dissolve the same rate of fertilizer in a bucket of water and water the bushes.
In addition to nitrogenous top dressing, caring for roses in the spring in the country also includes top dressing with minerals that promote the formation of buds and lush flowering.
To facilitate the work of the florist, the agrochemical industry produces a number of preparations with a balanced and selected composition of potassium, phosphorus and trace elements specifically for roses. Under the root, you can add the prepared solutions of the preparations "Fertimix Biohumus", "Agricola", "Clean Leaf for Roses". But as foliar feeding suitable "Terraflex - F".
Experienced rose growers in early spring renew the soil under the bushes. This is not difficult to do. Starting from the root collar, the soil is slightly raked, and fresh compost or well-rotted cow, pork, horse dung mixed with garden soil.
Furnace ash is also considered a good top dressing, but its elements are slightly mobile, therefore, feeding with ash in early spring, the effect is obtained only by the next season. However, the annual application of ash contributes to beautiful bloom rosary.
In its homeland, the rose is evergreen shrub. The growing season for flowers does not stop, it only stops for short span time. In conditions middle lane the dormant period stretches for several months.
At good care bushes can grow for about 10 years. Roses bloom from the end of June until the first frost. Shelter protects the bushes from the cold and creates the conditions for a quick entry into growth in the spring.
Winter is a real test for roses, the bushes are damaged not only from the cold, but also rot. Some varieties of roses, even when the temperature drops to -3 degrees, may die. In order to prevent this from happening, rose bushes are sheltered for the winter. Abundant flowering, growth and development of bushes depend on the correct shelter and timely removal of protection from plants.
In the spring, flower growers are often late with the removal of protective shelters. The dormant period of roses ends with the first warm spring days. The buds swell, but the roots remain dormant.
When the shoots become dense, juicy, the buds are saturated with moisture, you can begin to remove shelters.
The cover is not removed immediately. Plants first get used to the ventilation and only after 2 weeks the protective material is removed. This happens from the beginning to the end of April (depending on the region, weather). At warm early spring shelter can be removed in late March - early April.
Plants in the first weeks are covered nonwoven fabric and only with settled warm weather, the bushes are completely freed and, if necessary, completely straightened.
When the soil melts to a depth of 20-30 centimeters, the protective cover can be removed.
Attention! It is forbidden to remove the shelter in the presence of snow!
Temperature indicators at night should not fall below -2 degrees. When removing the shelter, the roses are first covered with a film or spunbond.
Daily temperatures should be at least 10-15 degrees.
When the air warms up, the film is removed and the rose can grow without additional protection from sun and cold.
In the Moscow region, the overwintering of rose bushes is much worse than in warm regions. Because of short summer, the bushes do not have time to fully prepare for the winter period.
The bark of the shoots is more watery, loose. Nutrients often not enough. Therefore, plants need good shelter.
Best of all, strong, powerful bushes endure winter in the Urals. Preparation for wintering is carried out from mid-August. Before the autumn shelter, the bushes are covered with a dense film for a month, this reduces the accumulation of moisture. Shelter is made at the first freezing of the soil. For the winter, plants are covered with foliage, peat, spruce branches, and on top with a film.
Shelter in warm spring and complete melting of the snow cover is removed from the beginning to the end of April. To protect against frost, the bushes are covered with non-woven material. The material is removed in warm weather, and at night they return again. Full removal of protection occurs at the beginning of summer.
The best shelter for Siberian frosts is spruce branches or boxes. On top of the inverted box, 2 layers of cardboard and roofing material are laid out. When the air temperature drops below -8 degrees, the ventilated openings are closed with spruce branches or a film.
Shelter can be removed in the third decade of April. To protect against spring freezing, roses are covered with spunbond until the air and soil are completely warmed up.
Shelter should be taken care of from mid-August. Flowers are spudded with soddy soil from the garden, 1-3 buckets of soil are used for each plant (depending on the age and size of the bush). Front autumn shelter all young, unripe shoots are pinched.
The rose is watered with a solution of double superphosphate (300 grams per bucket of water). Watering is done around the bush. On the square meter goes about a liter of solution. Red leaves then turn green. The plant is almost ready for wintering.
A month before shelter from the bushes, you need to start picking off the leaves, moving from the bottom up. When sheltering, the plant should not have foliage and flowers, buds. At the end of autumn, the base of the bushes is sprinkled with sand. It is being treated for various diseases. Mature stems easily tolerate cold down to -8 degrees.
Before frost, the base of the bush is covered with a leaf and peat mixture to a height of about 10 centimeters. The whips bend down at 5 degrees of heat. After the first frost, roses can be covered with a protective cover.
When the temperature rises above 0 degrees and the active melting of snow, it must be cleaned from shelters. Drainage grooves are created near the landings to remove excess moisture. The pad is removed. The ends of the shelters open slightly, the bushes are ventilated. Then the shelter is closed, leaving a hole for ventilation on top.
The area around the roses, covered with earth for the winter and covered with sawdust, spruce branches, loosens. The edge of the insulation is raised to ventilate the plants.
Removal is carried out when the soil warms up in the evening, otherwise the young bark may get sunburn.
First, the ends of the shelter open. A day later, the east or north side opens.
On the third day, the shelter can be removed completely. Roses are darkened with any non-woven material or spruce branches. Shelter remains for 2 weeks, until warm weather sets in.
Temperature indicators at the same time at night should not fall below five degrees.
From under the bushes you need to rake and remove from the site excess soil, sawdust, peat. With a strong swelling of the kidneys, spraying with protective preparations is performed.
To protect plants from the cold on ground cover, climbing and standard species roses are added and an extra layer of snow is thrown on.
Polyanthus, hybrid tea, floribunda roses are afraid of the cold and require dense shelter with fluffy snow throughout the winter.
Since miniature, standard, climbing, Pernsian, ground cover types of roses when sheltering, they were covered with earth and covered with leaves, sawdust, spruce branches for the winter, they need to loosen the soil near the bush in spring.
Then the shelter returns to its place again, and gaps remain at the edges for the passage of air. When the soil warms up (after a week), the frame shelter opens on one side.
After a couple of days, the shelter is removed.
Hybrid tea varieties, after removing the shelter, a film is covered over the frame, this will protect the plant from the cold, accelerate the growth and flowering of the plant.
climbing roses they rise to the supports after the establishment of warm weather. With a sharp cold snap, the bushes are covered with spunbond.
Roses can be covered with spruce branches, fresh sawdust, needles, peat, dry leaves, boxes, film, cut off large plastic bottles.
Cannot be used to cover roses: dense film, old sawdust hardwood, moss, straw, hay, manure. Excessive dampness leads to root rot and death.
The covering layer must be thin, otherwise the bush will start to rot. Such a shelter will allow the plant to breathe and protect from the cold and bright sun.
After the opening of the roses, it is necessary to prune. Cold-damaged and dry branches and leaves are removed. Pruning for each variety should be individual. After these procedures, the roses are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate.
Strongly frozen areas located near the vaccination site are removed.
Slightly damaged shoots are washed with a soft brush:
Places of cuts are processed with garden pitch.
At severe damage root system, the plant is dug up and removed from the site.
Bushes under the root are watered warm water. After 3-5 days, fertilizers are applied to the soil, bushes are hilled.
Bush at high humidity air, and the soil begins to rot (it is affected by rot) due to improper or untimely removal of the protective cover. A frozen or frozen shoot leads to the death of a flower.
For prevention, protective measures. The place of plant grafting is freed from the earthen layer. The site is cleaned and washed with a solution of fungicides or copper sulfate.
The rooted areas are removed, the shoots are washed with a solution of copper sulfate or fungicides.
Heavily affected roses need to be watered with Kornerost or Kornevin, sprayed with Epin. Bushes depart by the beginning of summer.
To prevent aging, you need to use a thin, breathable covering material. A thin cover protects from the cold, allows plants to breathe and does not accumulate excess moisture.
In autumn, the bush is treated with a copper-containing preparation or iron vitriol with an admixture of soapy water.
Roses, regardless of species and varieties, are the perfect decoration for gardens. Proper conduct covering measures and timely removal of shelter from the bushes allows you to get beautiful and lush flowers in the summer.
Carefully wrapping roses for the winter is not 100% protection. Unfortunately, rose seedlings die in the spring. In order to understand why this happens, you need to answer the question of how and when to open roses in the spring. Beginning gardeners often do not suspect why healthy seedling after opening, it dies before it has time to grow.
If you remove the shelter too early, there is a risk of death of the kidneys that appeared ahead of time. If you are late with the opening, you can bring the plant to rotting. After winter, it is necessary to wait until the changeable spring weather stabilizes. An approximate indicator can be considered thawing of the soil to a depth of about 50 centimeters. A stable positive temperature is quite suitable, slight frosts are acceptable at night.
Experienced gardeners know that frost is not so much dangerous for roses as allowing them to dry out. Unfortunately, even on time open roses sometimes susceptible to this disease. When growing roses, it is important not to miss the moment of discovery, however this is not the only key factor, it is necessary to understand exactly how this is done.
Spring has come, it's time to open the roses
The first sign of spring awakening of roses is the swelling of the buds under a warm, dry cover. At the same time, the soil is still frozen and root system while sleeping. Immediately after the appearance of these signs, take the following measures:
You should remove the shelter in the evening or on cloudy days, this will help to avoid exposure to sunlight.
In no case, you can not immediately remove the shelter, it is necessary to do this gradually. The adaptation of the rose can be affected by a night drop in temperature, as well as strong wind or the bright rays of the sun. Overwintered shoots still have weak immunity, so it takes a little time to get used to life in the open field.
If the weather forecast promises frosts, and you have already removed the winter shelter, try to protect the plant with spunbond, agrofibre or lutrasil.
Features of removing cover for different types roses
The optimal conditions for the development of varieties of roses can vary significantly. There are general rules:
At about the same time, it is necessary to prune, it is important to have time before the buds fully open. There are also nuances here:
Even if you correctly determined the time when you can open roses, this does not guarantee against the appearance of some problems:
Please note that tea roses have the highest resistance to various damage. Other varieties have weaker immunity.
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