Let's save the beauty for the summer. How to cover climbing roses for the winter

Climbing roses with long shoots braiding supports are one of the most beautiful climbing perennials. They are used to decorate arbors, arches, fences, walls, creating beautiful weeping standard forms. Unfortunately, they do not differ in particular winter hardiness, and in order for the bushes to please with their long flowering for many years, they need to ensure proper wintering. There are several ways to shelter climbing roses for the winter, and they depend on the age of the plants and the place of growth.

In most regions of Russia, climbing roses without shelter, they themselves cannot survive the vagaries of the weather and freeze out. They practically do not enter a dormant period. Even late autumn on them you can see buds, flowers and shoots with leaves. The sap flow continues.

When the air temperature drops below 0 degrees, the juice in plants freezes and leads to tissue rupture. Frostbites appear on plants. Ice forms in these cracks. Juice, with a slight warming, thaws and flows from the stems of roses. Through damaged areas diseases penetrate and begin to multiply actively. By spring, with such damage, the upper part of the plant dries up, and if root system froze, then the bush simply dies.

To protect roses from cold and disease, a number of measures are taken, the quality of which determines whether they will delight their owners with flowering next year.

When to hide

Shelter time for climbing roses different regions different because they have different climate conditions. In warmer regions, roses take shelter on the outskirts of the calendar winter, and in colder regions, roses require earlier protection.

Shelter garden beauties in the Moscow region and Central Russia is held in late October - early November. Roses take shelter in dry weather, with stable average daily temperature air, equal to -3-5 degrees. More exact time shelters are determined depending on the weather conditions that year.

Shelter of climbing roses in the Urals is produced in the second - third decade of October. By this time, the bushes should go through all stages of preparation and be fully prepared for the coming cold weather.

It is impossible to cover the bushes at temperatures below -7 degrees, as the plants become brittle and easily vulnerable. If possible, you need to clarify the weather for several days ahead and conduct protective measures in time.

In Siberia, rose bushes take cover in late September - early October. The main thing is that by the beginning of stable cold weather, the plants are completely protected.

Leningrad region

Shelter of roses Leningrad region held until the beginning of November. When severe frosts approach, protective measures should be taken a week before their onset.

Shelter preparation

Bending, pruning and sheltering climbing roses for the winter: video

How to cover climbing roses for the winter?

After feeding, treatment for diseases and pests, and pruning, the preserved flowers and buds are pinched on the bushes. Withered and damaged leaves are cut off with a disinfected secateurs. The earth around the bushes is dug up to a depth of 20-25 centimeters.

It is necessary to remove the stems from the supports 1-1.5 months before the onset of stable frosts. By this time they are getting used to the new position and are completely ready for shelter. The procedure for sheltering rose bushes in different regions similar. Only the start time of work and the thickness of the shelter differ.

On the arch without removing from the support

This is how the stems of climbing roses cannot be removed from the arch, they take cover for the winter right on it. Bushes before shelter are first spudded with dry earth or needles to a height of 25 centimeters. The stems are wrapped in burlap or spruce branches and fixed with ropes. Wrapping paper or cardboard should not be used to protect the bushes, as these materials freeze quickly and are not able to protect roses from the cold.

Adult rose bushes (whose stems do not bend) after pruning are spudded and covered with dry birch or oak leaves. A frame made of spruce branches or wooden shields is laid out on top. If the bush has grown strongly and it is difficult to cover it with a frame, instead of it, the stems are insulated like this: they turn into burlap, spunbond or spruce branches directly with supports. The protective material is securely fixed on the bush with ropes.

Young, recently planted bushes are covered in autumn with trimmed five-liter plastic bottles or wooden boxes. From above, this shelter is sprinkled with pre-prepared dry birch or oak leaves, sawdust, or covered with spunbond.

Grown bushes take cover in a different way.

All stems are removed from the supports, collected in a bundle, bent down, putting a light load on top for the time of shelter to hold them in one position or pinned with metal pins. Styrofoam, boards or spruce branches are placed under the stems so that in winter they do not touch the ground. A frame is formed above the bush polypropylene pipes, metal arcs or construction mesh. On top of the frame, it is stretched in 2 layers of lutrasil or spunbond, at the bottom it is pressed with bricks. Before the snow falls, spruce branches are additionally laid out on lutrasil (spunbond).

In Siberia, so that the roots of plants do not freeze, they are sprinkled with dry earth. This is done in stages. In September, the bases of the shoots are sprinkled, and in October, the stems are covered. On top of this shelter, an air shelter is also being built. Small bushes are covered with a hut made of spruce branches, reeds or ferns, and 2 layers of non-woven material are stretched on top. To protect against mice, poison for rodents is placed inside the shelter.

Before sheltering a bush, the plant is spudded with earth, sand or needles. The stems are bent as close to the soil as possible and pinned. If varieties with flexible lashes grow on the site, they can be carefully rolled into rings. Thick and stiff stems must be carefully bent down, as they are quite brittle, especially during the first frost. Metal or wooden supports are removed from the ground and, together with the shoots, are laid on the ground.

From above, the bushes are covered with non-woven material. A cheaper and more reliable shelter option is a special frame, wooden box, big box, allowing you to create air layer inside and protect the bushes from the condensation that collects inside.

The frame is made of wire, greenhouse arcs or wooden shields. It is covered on top with kraft paper, lutrasil, and a film is laid on top with small holes on the sides to drain condensate.

Shelter can be made in advance and installed above the bush, but leaving the sides open. It completely closes with the onset of frost. The covering material is pressed to the ground with bricks, boards or dug in.

It is necessary to remove shelter from rose bushes in time. Leave plants in a protective shell in the spring longer than expected! Without access fresh air they choke and suffocate. The shelter is removed when the ground has thawed to a depth of 25 centimeters.

Protection is removed gradually - layer by layer. The last remaining layer protects the bush from drying out, keeping moisture in the ground.

After removing the shelters, the stems of roses are laid on the support in accordance with all the rules. They are fixed obliquely in a spiral or horizontally. This is necessary for correct formation flower buds.

After wintering, the flowers are freed from the mulch and fertilized for the first time. This contributes to their rapid recovery after winter and active growth.

How to cover climbing roses for the winter: video

At the end of August, top dressing nitrogen fertilizers stop. Nitrogen stimulates the growth of new shoots, which weaken the bushes. If young shoots appeared in September, they must be removed with pruners.

From the beginning of September, watering the bushes is gradually reduced. It stops completely when the ground freezes completely.

If the bush continues to actively develop and bloom, you can stop the process by pinching the shoots and bending the stems near the buds.

Dry leaves under the bushes after pruning are raked and burned so that the infections and pests that have appeared on them during the growing season do not spread to the plants.

Shelter of roses should be carried out in stages. It is impossible to bend the stems and immediately cover them. This can harm plants.

The shelter of the bushes must be taken with all responsibility, otherwise the plants may simply not withstand the long and frosty winter.

A thick layer is used to cover roses. nonwoven fabric, he, with full shelter of the bush, protects him from the cold and possible ailments. Such protection requires frequent replacement, since thorny shoots spoil the material and in the spring it becomes unusable.

More budget option is spruce branches, special wooden shields or a box that can be used for more than one year.

Many novice gardeners, before the onset of winter, think about how to properly cover climbing roses for the winter, and whether this procedure is necessary in their region. Regardless of the terrain, the bushes require preparation and some protection from the cold.

With frequent temperature changes, thaws and the absence of snow, even in a temperate climate, there is a chance of bushes dying. Having protected the roses from the cold, you can confidently expect lush and bright flowering from them next year.

Sheltering roses for the winter is an important and responsible process that must be approached with all responsibility. From proper preparation plants for wintering depends not only on their health, external characteristics and flowering time, but also on viability.

The main cause of the death of the queen of flowers in winter period is hypothermia, as well as decay and damage by various diseases due to non-compliance with the rules for preparing for wintering. Incorrect shelter of roses for the winter and their further death lead to the fact that gardeners refuse to grow flowers and decorate house territories with such beauty.

What is winter hardiness

Winter hardiness - the ability of roses to endure frost and sudden changes in temperature. This indicator depends on the type of plant. Best tolerate wintering garden varieties roses that are meant to be grown in open field. Greenhouse varieties do not differ in winter hardiness and in most cases die, even if the shelter of roses for the winter was correctly made.

Among garden roses allocate more winter-hardy varieties and less resistant to low temperatures. Landscape and park roses are considered the most unpretentious, which endure the winter cold better than others.

Plant size is also important. Easiest to hide undersized varieties, among which are ground cover and miniature than tall ones, reaching 1.5 m (upright, non-sprawling, climbing).

Preparing plants for shelter in the summer

Resistance to low temperatures depends not only on careful adherence to all the rules of the preparatory process. It happens that even the shelter of roses carried out according to all the rules for the winter does not save the bush from death. This happens due to the fact that in summer season not all were completed necessary procedures to prepare plants for wintering.

You should think about sheltering roses for the winter at the stage of planning their location. It is necessary to place the bushes so that in the future there will be no problems with their preparation for the cold season.

To plant plants better in rows in such a way that free space is preserved. For park, hybrid tea varieties and the floribunda group, a distance of 30 to 40 cm will be sufficient, and for ground cover and miniature varieties - 20-30 cm.

Preparing plants for wintering

Before the first frosts, almost all leaves should be removed from the bushes of the plant. Especially carefully it is recommended to thin out lower part shoots. Shelter of climbing roses for the winter involves cutting the leaves in several approaches. It is important to move slowly from the bottom of the plant to its top. This is done in order to stop the evaporation of water from the leaves, since the roots of the plant cannot fully work in the frozen ground and independently replenish the loss of fluid. Plus, the leaves often rot under cover, which will certainly lead to the death of the entire bush. Unripened shoots, which should also be disposed of, can lead to similar consequences.

Many gardeners recommend cutting the stems of spray roses to the height of the shelter, while leaving a length of 15-25 cm. This margin is necessary in order not to damage the grafting sites. You can use the method in which the stems are simply bent to the ground and secured in this position with metal pins. This method will allow roses to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier than their pruned relatives.

Necessary measures to prevent diseases

Despite the careful shelter of roses for the winter, sudden changes in temperature, poor ventilation and elevated level humidity can cause diseases. Therefore, before proceeding with the preparation of the plant for wintering, the bush should be treated with antifungal drugs. The surrounding soil should also be sprayed, as dangerous fungal spores can hide there.

Shelter for the winter of ground cover roses

This type of plant in the cold season can not be covered. Most varieties of this group are very hardy. They feel comfortable under the snow cover and do not even shed their foliage until spring. If, according to forecasts, the winter will be snowless and very severe, it is better to make a light cover with spruce branches. It protects the plant from cold winds and provides unhindered air penetration, thereby preventing rotting. In the spring, on the bushes of ground cover roses, unfallen leaves are removed and sanitary pruning is performed.

Shelter of park roses for the winter

Before the onset of the first frost, the bushes need to be spudded by 15-20 cm with coarse-grained sand or loose earth. the best heat-insulating material serves as spruce spruce branches. Rose bushes are covered with insulation to a height of 20-30 cm, and on top also with a film, which is sprinkled with earth or sand.

However, the dry method of shelter is considered more reliable. It consists in the fact that boxes or wooden stops with a height of not more than 40 cm are installed between the rows. Boards or shields are closely stacked on top of them. All this is covered with a layer of roofing paper to keep the soil dry. From the ends of the structure they are left open, and with the onset of severe frosts they are covered with a film or boards.

How to prepare standard plants for cold weather

Shelter standard roses for the winter involves not only warming the stem and crown, but also the obligatory laying of the plant on the ground. In order to prevent a break, the queen of flowers should be bent in the opposite direction from the grafting site. First you need to cut the crown at the trunk. After that, the plant is dug up on one side, the stem is tilted and fixed with a metal pin.

Under the crown, you need to organize a litter of spruce branches or coarse sand. Another layer of insulation is laid on top and everything is covered with a film. For reliability, the latter can be sprinkled with a small layer of earth.

You can not lay the stem too low, as water will accumulate in the hole, which will cause rotting and death of the shoots.

How to handle climbing roses?

Sheltering climbing roses for the winter requires special care and caution, since the long lashes of the plant cannot be damaged. The base of the queen of flowers should be insulated with earth, sand or needles, and then covered with spruce branches. The stems of the plant are removed from the supports and placed on a pre-prepared spruce branches. From above, they are insulated with the same spruce branches and covered with a film.

If roses wrap around arches and arbors, the insulation of plants does not require laying lashes on the insulation. In this case, the shoots are covered with insulation directly on the supports, and then fixed with ropes.

Popular option

Lutrasil is a non-woven material. It is used as a thermal insulation layer to protect plants during the cold season. Sheltering roses with lutrasil for the winter has many advantages. The material allows plants to breathe, which prevents rotting in the event of an increase in temperature.

It is possible to insulate with lutrasil along arcs or without them. However, it should be borne in mind that the higher the arc, the greater the risk that the roses will die from frost. Low-sheltered plants will be under snow, which is the best protector from cold and wind.

If winter is expected with heavy rainfall, a large number of snow can damage roses, and the shoots will break under its weight. Need to calculate optimal height shelters so that the plants do not freeze and die.

Climatic features of Ukraine

Winter-hardy varieties can not be prepared for the cold season only in the southern part of the country, in all other regions it is necessary to carefully cover roses for the winter. Ukraine differs comparatively warm winters and temperate climate. However, some varieties of the queen of flowers require special care. Sheltering rose bushes for the winter can be done in one of several ways:

- bulk method consists in warming the plant with a mound of dry soil or mulch, the height of the shelter can reach 50 cm above the shoot;

- air dry involves the construction of a frame of rods, which is covered with a film or non-woven material;

- mesh wrapping(material with a diameter of 30-40 cm is used), in addition, the plant is insulated with spruce branches or spruce branches.

Taking cover

An equally important and crucial moment is the removal of shelter from roses in the spring. Even properly insulated plants can die in the spring if the canopy is removed incorrectly or at the wrong time. When the air temperature rises, the shelter should be removed in stages. First, the film is removed, then - spruce branches, sand or coniferous branches, after which the bushes are released. The ideal option a windless sunny spring day or evening is considered. However, it should be remembered that the plant has been in humid environment without exposure to sunlight, so prepare it for new weather conditions need gradually. All diseased, frostbitten or broken parts are removed from the shoots, preventive spraying is carried out.

Covering roses in accordance with all the rules for the winter will protect even the most whimsical varieties from death and disease. In addition, plants will delight with early and abundant flowering.

Autumn is the time when all nature seems to be preparing for a long winter sleep. But summer residents and owners of household plots at this time of the year have no time to indulge in laziness: many plants and shrubs will not be able to survive the frost, and therefore require additional protection from the owner. This in due measure also applies to such gentle, capricious creatures as. In order not to lose their marvelous flowering upon the arrival of heat, we recommend that you learn how to cover a climbing rose for the winter.

Do I need to cover a climbing rose?

Generally, urgent problem- whether it is necessary to cover climbing roses for the winter or not - is more relevant for regions located in middle lane where the winter is quite severe. Even if the sellers of seedlings assured that the purchased variety is frost-resistant, take the time to do this. In the southern regions, where the cold is less severe, additional protection for the queens of the garden will not be needed.

When do you need to cover a climbing rose for the winter?

The optimal time when a good shelter should be prepared for the queen of the garden is, of course, mid-October. You don't need to do this before. And if the intention to arrange protection for the plant arises later, you can find the bushes frostbitten.

How to insulate a climbing rose for the winter?

Preparing roses for winter begins with the processing of the so-called trunk circle. It is recommended to dig up the earth around the climbing rose. Do this carefully, without deepening the shovel to the entire length of the handle so that the roots capricious plant not damaged. Then do not forget to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium components.

It is also recommended to remove all leaves from roses, as they still die off and begin to rot. Do not forget to remove even small petioles, leaving bare stems of roses. To improve the aeration of the root system of plants, spud each bush with a layer of soil of 15-20 cm. After these procedures, you can proceed to the main thing - sheltering your pets. If we talk about how you can cover climbing roses for the winter, then there are a lot of options.

A good option is to create a shelter in the form of a house. The shoots of roses must be carefully bent towards the soil and fastened with wire hooks to the ground. Make sure that there are no breaks in the stems during the deflection. Then all the stems of the bush are connected with wire. After that, they set over the roses plywood boards as gable roof, thus creating a reliable shelter for the whole winter. By the way, optimal width for everybody plywood sheet- 70-80 cm. These parts are fixed with pegs driven into the ground. Please note that the shelter shields fit snugly against each other - there should not be large gaps and gaps so that snow and cold air do not penetrate the gentle garden beauties. Further wooden shelter covered with a dense polyethylene film, which is fixed, for example, with stones or planks. The ends of the shelter can be left open until frost. In the coming of the last holes they are covered with slate, plywood, a cut of polycarbonate, etc.

Another, easier option is to use wooden boxes. They are covered with stems of rose bushes pinned to the ground, after which they are covered with the same film.

If possible and desire, create a frame of metal rods. Its optimal height is 50-60 cm. It is convenient to make it in the shape of a cone. After installation, the frame is covered with a layer of insulation (lutrasil, glass wool) or natural - spruce branches. A plastic film is stretched over the insulation and fixed so that moisture in no case gets on the bush. Don't forget about small holes. They are needed so that the roses do not fall.

With the onset of autumn, the days are getting shorter and colder, and at this time the device for the wintering of rose bushes should be on the florist's list of urgent garden tasks. Of course, there is relatively cold resistant varieties well tolerated winter conditions. But the bulk of varieties of roses are sissies and require careful shelter for the winter. In this article, we will look at how to properly prepare climbing roses for wintering, what types of shelters are suitable for this, and what actions the florist should take to prepare roses for winter.

Why and when to cover climbing roses

The gardener's actions to shelter roses for the winter depend on the climatic zone of gardening and the types of roses grown. Hybrid and varietal climbing roses are in dire need of winter protection from the cold, especially if the air temperature drops below -15 ° C and stays at this level for a long time.

Did you know? In 2002, a dwarf rose bush, 'Night Sensation', was brought into space to help scientists investigate the effects of low gravity on floral scent. The aim of the study was to improve flavor for a range of consumer products.

How to prepare a plant for winter

Stop fertilizing roses with nitrogen from the end of August until early spring. If the flowers will overwinter in a ground shelter, then they need to be removed from the trellis about a month and a half before the onset of stable frosts.

Russian winters can damage even the most resistant varieties, this is facilitated by:

• rapid temperature changes;
• root injuries from periodic freezing and thawing;
• bark damage from mouse teeth;
• ice injury.

The novice gardener needs to know that all these problems in the flower garden can be avoided if the plants are securely and thoughtfully covered.

Taking steps to prepare rose bushes for winter:

1. Winter protection begins with the cessation of supply to plants from the end of August. Nitrogen encourages the growth of new shoots, which will weaken the plant and also be less winter hardy than older (ripened and woody) shoots. If the gardener sees that new shoots begin to grow from the base of the bush in September, they must be removed with help to prevent future winter freezing of the plant.
2. Many believe that the winter hardiness of roses will increase after (at least one) autumn feeding potassium.
3. After October 1, flowers are no longer cut, they are allowed to fade and turn into fruits. The development of fruits helps to strengthen the wood of the bushes.
4. From the beginning of September, gradually reduce the watering level. This will also help initiate the hardening process of the wood. Continue to monitor soil moisture, by the end of autumn watering the bushes only as needed to avoid drying out the soil. Stop watering roses completely when the ground freezes.
5. Do not prune during winter shelter, except for the removal of dead, damaged and diseased branches. Wait until the end of April - this is the best time to spend spring pruning roses.

Did you know? From the Middle Ages to the present day, the expression “under the rose” has been used in Italy, that is, absolutely secret. The image of a rose is present on the secret documents of the Illuminati as a sign that they are not subject to disclosure.

Feeding features

As mentioned above, stop making under rose bushes at the end of summer. Instead, you can feed the plant with root fertilizers before wintering.

• 10 liters of water;
• 25 g;
• 10 g;
• 2.5-3.5 g of borax or.

This amount is enough to fertilize an area of ​​4 square meters. Top dressing is carried out in early September.

Second autumn root dressing:

• 10 liters of water;
• 16 g or potassium sulfate;
• 15 g of superphosphate.

A freshly prepared solution must be used within 10-12 hours so that it does not run out of steam. Usually a bucket of feeding liquid is enough for 3-4 adult rose bushes. It is carried out two weeks after the first feeding.

Weed and debris removal

Part of the job of sheltering roses for the winter is clearing the garden of debris, which will help prevent rose diseases next year:

1. An important task for the grower is the removal of cuttings and fragments of branches, fallen flowers and leaves, as well as other plant residues, not only after roses, but also from other plants.
2. If there are other flowers in the garden (annual and withered) growing next to roses, be sure to remove everything.
3. All plant remains are raked out of the garden with a rake.
4. Don't leave faded roses lying on the ground in your garden. They may contain spores of leaf diseases such as black spot and fungus. Dead plant material is a winter shelter and dining room for insects and their larvae, as well as pathogenic microbes that will cause disease in rose bushes in the future. Remove debris, burn or take off site. Never compost such plant material - it only spreads diseases and harmful insects in the garden.

Did you know? The most expensive rose variety in the world -"Juliet", bred in 2006. The selection of this variety took 15 years and cost five million dollars.

Pruning and hilling

In mid or late November, a couple of weeks before the ground freezes, the plants should be covered with 10-12 centimeters of well-drained soil. Such a mound should be poured around the roots of each flower.

This soil must be brought from somewhere else in the garden, and not taken from. Then cover the mound of earth around the roots with another 12-16 centimeters of mulching material, such as pine needles or wood shavings.

Light top mulch should be secured in place (from winds and rainstorms) with spruce or pine branches laid on top of it. You can also pin the mulch to the ground using wire "pins".

The top layer of mulch will help stabilize the temperature of the root soil and reduce the chance of freezing. Extra cover soil brings warmth to the roots and lower branches of roses, helping them withstand the icy onslaught of winter.

If the root system of the plant is preserved without freezing, then even if the aerial part is damaged by snow and ice, the rose bush will throw out new branches in the spring.

We carry out pruning of bushes:

1. Take a pruner with well-sharpened blades and remove dead wood from the bushes. It is easy to distinguish it from a living one by its black color, it is excised until a green stem appears. Branches are cut from the mother plant at an angle of 45 degrees, about 3 cm above the leaf bud, which faces the outside of the bush.
2. To improve air circulation and light inside the bush, remove all stems that cross and branches growing inside the bush. In the same way, any weak and thin growth is removed.
3. The force of pruning depends on the type of rose. For example, tea roses are pruned heavily, while weaving roses are pruned gently.

Did you know? The age of the oldest rose bush in the world is almost a thousand years. It grows near the wall of the German church in the city of Hildesheim. The mention of an ancient plant is found in chronicles from 815 AD. According to legend, the rose bush is a symbol of prosperity. hometown while the bush grows, the city exists. During World War II (in 1945) the church was destroyed by bombing, but the plant survived. Its root system remained alive under the ruins of the church, and soon the bush bloomed again.

Ways to shelter climbing roses

How to do it correctly and in a timely manner:

1. Winter shelter for climbing roses has its own characteristics. In October vines removed from gratings and trellises. They are lowered to the ground, laid down and pinned to the ground with a “hairpin” bent from thick wire. If the bush is old and luxuriantly overgrown, this is not so easy to do. Therefore, large bushes must be lowered from the trellis in stages, gradually pulling them lower and lower to the ground. This can be done by tying a bucket filled with sand to the tops of the lashes, which will gradually tilt the bush and lay it on the ground.
2. Under a bush lying on the ground, it is advisable to lay a layer roofing material (roofing material, polyethylene or wooden shield). This will prevent contact. frozen ground with flower stems.
3. Winter protection measures are designed to keep overwintering plants from being affected by frost and to prevent the damaging effects of alternating freeze and thaw cycles. Don't start covering bushes too early.
4. Wait for most of the leaves on the roses to freeze and fall, after which you need to collect all the fallen leaves and other debris around the rose bushes. This will help to avoid wintering of fungal diseases and will be a good prevention of plant diseases next year. Burn plant debris, do not put it in compost heap where the winter temperatures won't be high enough to kill disease spores. The procedure for cleaning the leaves is carried out in several stages, starting from the bottom of the bush. Leaves can be cut off even in frost, immediately before the plant is warmed. Then pin the bush to the ground and wrap it in any material that is inaccessible to mouse teeth.
5. In late October or early November, before overwintering the roses, remove the old root mulch from all plants and spread out a new organic mulch such as compost manure or peat moss. This helps to prevent the occurrence of diseases in the future, preserves the roots from freezing, accelerates the growth of plants in the spring.
6. Weaving or climbing roses they hibernate best when they are taken off the trellis, laid on the ground, and allowed to be covered with snow to protect them from the bitter cold. If your climate zone does not allow you to count on deep snow cover in winter, you can pour soil or mulch over the lashes (long branches) of the plant lying on the ground. It is also possible to cover the stems high without first removing them from the trellis. They are left tied up on a trellis, for shelter from frost, the plant is wrapped in several layers with burlap and partially with polyethylene. And also, as in the case of bush varieties, the root zone is insulated with soil and mulch that is inedible for mice.
7. After the mulch at the base of the bush freezes, you need to carry out a winter treatment of roses(processing with special chemicals) to prevent the development of fungal diseases in the future.
8. To keep snow on the structure, you can make shields and strengthen the entire structure with bricks laid on top. Spruce and pine branches are designed not only for insulation, but also to prevent the appearance of rodents that cannot stand the smell of pine needles. Along the perimeter of the rose garden, the gardener can lay out poisonous baits for rodents.
9. Shelter over tall rose bushes should be built gradually, its side openings should remain open until the onset of severe frosts. They are completely sealed only after the temperature drops to -5...-10 °C.

Important! If there are mice in the garden, then it is better not to lay the top mulching layer of sawdust or straw, as the mice will happily overwinter in the shelter provided to them, damaging the roots and trunk of rose bushes along the way.

With frame construction

Building shelters for climbing roses is especially important in areas where it is frosty in winter but there is little snow. Can be built wooden frame, on which an insulating coating is subsequently placed. For example, on the frame you can lay fir branches, and on top of them - polyethylene film to protect against moisture.

What materials can be used as insulation:

• slate;
• wooden shields;
• ruberoid;
• polyethylene;
• wooden and plastic boxes;
• plastic voluminous flower pots;
• carton boxes;
• spruce or pine branches.

Did you know? The world's largest rose bush is the white "Lady Banksia", growing in Arizona (USA). rose bush grew over a gazebo measuring over nine thousand square feet.

Without frame

Wintering climbing roses demand special attention. Experienced rose growers recommend removing them from their supports, laying them on the ground, and covering them with heat-storing materials, but this is not very convenient for most home gardens.

Instead, you can collect the tips of the long branches of a climbing rose and wrap them in burlap (several layers), using twine to secure the insulation. Be sure to fill the soil at the base of the plant and this securely cover the roots with mulch.

If the gardener cannot constantly monitor the roses (due to living elsewhere), then tall bushes are laid on the ground since October, and the root zone is generously mulched with compost.
Three buckets of earth are enough to completely protect the bush from frost. It is better to prepare the soil for warming the bush in advance and store it under cover in a dry form so that it does not get wet and therefore does not freeze (which will make its use as a root cover impossible).

The soil is perfect for covering the roots, since, for example, sand does not retain heat and the roots will freeze, and root cover with sawdust is dangerous for the possible development of fungal diseases and mold.

If deep snow has fallen and the temperature outside is very low, there is no cause for concern, because the layer of snow reliably protects plants from freezing.

Important!Check the grate or other supporting structure nearby for stability to make sure it is strong. If snow or wind knocks down the lattice (trellis) in winter, it can easily break a weaving rose lying on the ground and damage it.

When and how to remove the cover

With the onset of spring, the gardener should not rush to remove winter shelter from rose bushes:

• if the air temperature has risen, the sun is shining in the sky, but the ground has not yet warmed up, then the buds that start growing early do not find the necessary moisture. In addition to everything, the bush has weaned for many months from the sun's rays, and the young leaves that have begun to grow can suffer during “physiological drought”;
• however, it is also impossible to delay too much with the removal of winter shelter from the plant. As soon as the positive temperatures become constant, and spring asserts itself in its rights, the basal mounds of soil and mulch artificially poured in autumn are raked to the sides, allowing the roots to be saturated with oxygen. Also during this period reveal upper part shelters of climbing roses;
• remove the mulch and feed the bushes with good fertilizer for the rose family. These flowers are very sensitive to regular fertilization, so spring dressing required;
• during the "February windows" (thaws), flowers may be banned. The same trouble threatens bushes that are covered too early at the beginning of winter, since there is always the possibility of temperature fluctuations from frost to thaw. In addition, the chances of flowers surviving in the winter will increase if their young wood hardens in the air (without shelter) before frost sets in.
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