Drywall partition on a wooden frame. Wooden frame for drywall

To date, drywall is rightfully recognized as one of the most popular and sought-after materials. This is due to its affordability and undeniable ease of use. He is often used to level the floors in the house. Today we will talk about how you can attach drywall to walls, and also get acquainted with all the pros and cons of this common finishing material.

What it is?

Before embarking on the study of such a finishing material as drywall, it is worth understanding what it is.

Drywall is a finishing material that consists of two layers of cardboard with hard gypsum and special fillers inside. It is used for a wide variety of purposes. Sheets with different thicknesses are produced for different jobs. Plasterboard panels can be laid not only on walls, but also on the floor or ceiling. The main thing is to choose materials of a suitable category.

Peculiarities

Today in the stores of building and finishing materials you can find absolutely any product for any repair work. To level the walls, customers are offered high-quality putties, plasters and other practical compounds. However, many people choose “dry” material for such work - drywall.

To date, the problem of uneven walls is familiar to many. It is faced by both owners of private houses and city apartments. However, it is quite possible to make the floors even on your own, without involving a team of finishers.

Uneven floors are bad not only because they look unpresentable, but also because many finishing materials cannot be applied to them. These include tiles, most types of paints and wallpapers. On a base with drops and potholes, such coatings do not hold securely, and they look very sloppy. Many of the finishing materials even emphasize the bumps on the walls.

In such cases, you can not do without a perfectly even and smooth drywall. After its installation, the walls acquire a more aesthetic and neat appearance. In addition, the sheets of this popular material are as simple as possible to process and can be covered with almost any canvas and paint.

Plasterboard sheets are attached to the wall using a special wooden or metal frame. There is also a frameless installation method, which experts consider more difficult.

When choosing one or another installation method, it is worth considering that you need to work with drywall carefully. This is due to its peculiarity, which consists in fragility and the possibility of crumbling. If you accidentally damage the drywall, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to restore its original appearance. That is why ordinary drywall is not suitable for the manufacture of, for example, arched structures, since it will simply break with slight bending.

Another distinctive quality of drywall is its multitasking. It is used not only to level different bases, but also to make interesting multi-level ceilings, shelving with shelves, niches and cabinets. This once again confirms the unpretentiousness of this material and the ease of working with it.

Advantages and disadvantages

Like any other finishing material, drywall has advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of if you decide to install it on the walls in your home.

First, let's get acquainted with the list of positive qualities of drywall sheets:

• They are distinguished by a flat and smooth surface, because of which they are chosen for leveling various bases.
• The advantage of drywall is its thermal conductivity. In a room where the walls are sheathed with this material, it will always be warm and cozy.
• Drywall is recognized as an environmentally friendly material. It does not contain dangerous and harmful substances, so it can be safely used even in the decoration of children's rooms.
• GKL sheets are fireproof and do not support combustion.

• Another significant advantage of drywall is its vapor permeability. Due to this quality, such material is not susceptible to the formation of mold and fungus.
• Often, consumers buy drywall, as it has an affordable price, and is used for a variety of purposes.
• Plasterboard walls can be supplemented with various heaters (more often foam and mineral wool are preferred).
• Working with drywall is quite simple. You do not need to buy expensive tools for this.

• Using this finishing material, you can realize any bold design ideas. That is why drywall is used by many designers in their designs.
• Drywall does not require expensive and regular maintenance.
• GLA does not emit an unpleasant chemical odor.
• It is seamlessly processed. To do this, you can use almost any material, from ordinary paper wallpaper to tiles.

• Plasterboard sheets can be installed in any room. It can be not only a dry living room or bedroom, but also a bathroom or kitchen. Of course, for the latter it is necessary to select moisture-resistant canvases.
• Thanks to gypsum sheets, you can hide unattractive communications and wires in the room.
• With the frame method of fixing drywall, draft walls do not need to be prepared for a long time and scrupulously with the help of special compounds. It is enough to treat them with antiseptic agents to avoid the reproduction of harmful microorganisms.
• Many consumers purchase drywall for repair because it can be used immediately after purchase, letting them lie down for 2-3 days without undergoing additional preparation.
• To date, the choice of drywall sheets allows you to choose the best option for any conditions.

As you can see, the list of positive qualities of drywall is quite impressive.

However, it also has its weaknesses:

• Ordinary drywall is not recommended for installation in rooms with a high level of humidity. For such conditions, it is worth choosing exclusively moisture-resistant types of material. However, according to experts, even such drywall in wet conditions begins to lose its properties and deteriorate.
• Drywall sheets may begin to crumble, especially under heavy loads. That is why it is not allowed to hang heavy objects such as large clocks, hanging bathroom sinks, lighting fixtures, large paintings and other objects with considerable weight on plaster walls. Otherwise, these things will not stay in place for long, and then just fall off and damage the drywall.

• Work with drywall must be very careful not to damage it. Do not bend this material unless it is arched.
• Drywall on the frame will "eat up" some space in the room, so this method of installing the material is not suitable for all areas.

How significant are the listed disadvantages - each consumer must decide for himself. But it is worth noting that many problems can be avoided if you choose the right material and strictly follow the instructions when attaching it to the walls.

Materials and tools

If you decide to independently install drywall on partitions in your home, then you should stock up on tools and materials.

From the toolkit you will need:

• special knife for cutting drywall sheets;
• special glue (for frameless mounting method);
• building level, plumb line, special marking cord, tape measure, long ruler (you can take a rule instead), pencil / marker - you will need these tools for marking walls and for competent control of the verticality of surfaces;
• regular and rubber hammers;

• spatula (you can take a trowel instead);
• a separate container for mixing the adhesive composition;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;

• self-tapping screws;
• dowel;
• screws;
• electric drill with mixer attachment;

• roller with a long handle;
• soft brush;
• planer (needed for chamfering);
• putty (for applying the finishing layer after all work has been completed).

From the materials you will need:

• GKL sheets (regular, moisture-resistant or fire-resistant - it all depends on the room in which the sheets are planned to be installed);
• galvanized profile or wooden beam (to form a frame with an appropriate installation method).

Application area

Drywall is a versatile material. It is used in a variety of conditions and seamlessly fixed on various grounds.

You simply cannot do without this material when it comes to a wooden house or a log house. In such conditions, the walls are almost always uneven and require proper alignment. However, it should be borne in mind that wooden houses always shrink and gypsum boards can only be installed in them after this process is completed. Otherwise, the sheets may be damaged under such conditions or deformed.

To install drywall on walls in wooden houses, you must:

• provide space for the installation of insulation (unless, of course, you plan to additionally insulate the room);
• have free space for laying communication systems.

Aligning the walls in wooden houses is not an easy task. In this case, the best option would be frame mounting. However, some owners first attach sheets of plywood or chipboard to the boards and bars, and then drywall is glued to them.

Drywall can also be attached to walls with a concrete base. For such surfaces, it is not at all necessary to make a complex frame. Drywall can be glued to such bases using special glue. Such adhesives are very common in stores today. For example, the well-known company Knauf offers a high-quality Perlfix composition.

Drywall is often used to level brick walls. Here you can also refer to the usual gluing of the material without making the frame. In such cases, immediately before installation, it is necessary to find out with the help of a level how curved the floors are, after which any dirt, dust and grease spots are removed from the brick. In addition, the brick wall must be absolutely dry, otherwise it will not be possible to achieve sufficient adhesion with drywall even when using high-quality glue.

In case you want to align the walls of foam blocks, then you should turn to the frame installation method. This is due to the softness of such grounds. However, some users turn to frameless installation, but before that, the foam block must be prepared - finished with soil or plaster.

Aerated concrete walls also often require alignment. In such cases, both frame and frameless mounting methods can be used. In the second case, it is necessary to treat aerated concrete bases with a deep penetration primer. Glue in such cases must be selected especially carefully, as in cases with foam block ceilings. Experts recommend using compositions from Knauf and Volma Montazh.

Drywall can make the walls smooth even in adobe houses. Such buildings are full-fledged composites built from clay, earth, straw and sand. Of course, with such building materials, there is no need to talk about perfectly even partitions. For this reason, they simply need leveling sheets such as drywall.

Mounting methods

We have already mentioned above that drywall sheets are attached to the walls by making a frame or in a frameless way. The choice of one or another installation option largely depends on the structure and conditions of the room and, of course, the preferences of the owners.

Go to profile

This option for installing drywall is the most popular. It is quite possible to make it yourself. With this method, gypsum sheets are installed on a pre-prepared frame, consisting of metal profiles fixed along the wall.

It is worth considering some of the nuances of this common installation method:

• A heater can be placed between the wall and the profile, if necessary. Most often, consumers choose mineral wool, foam or polystyrene for this. However, we must not forget that the draft walls must be treated with an antiseptic composition before laying the insulating layer.
• In the cavity behind the frame, various engineering communications can be hidden. It can be water pipes, radiators or electrical wiring.
• Do not forget that in rooms with a high level of humidity it is permissible to use only moisture-resistant drywall. Ordinary sheets in such conditions will not last long.

Mounting drywall sheets on the frame has several advantages:

• with such an installation in the room, additional noise and heat insulation is provided;
• frame installation allows you to align even ugly curved walls;
• before installing the frame and fixing the drywall, the draft partitions do not require preparation (it is enough to walk on them with antiseptics).

Let's take a closer look at the step-by-step instructions for installing drywall on the frame:

• First you need to measure the walls and make markings on them for the installation of metal profiles and suspensions.
• Marking for guides must begin with the top profile. At the same time, the necessary indent is made from the ceiling, then a line is drawn and transferred to the floor with the help of a plumb line.
• Vertical profiles must be placed at a distance of at least 60 cm from each other. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that each drywall sheet rests on three racks.
• As for the installation of suspensions, here it is also necessary to maintain a certain distance - 60-80 cm will be quite enough.

• After that, you can proceed directly to the installation of the frame. First, along the perimeter, you need to fix the guide profiles. To fasten them to the ceiling and floor, you must use a puncher, dowels and screws.
• At the points marked during the measurements, you need to attach the suspensions.
• Carriers should be inserted into the guide profiles and fixed with hangers.
• Fasten all the details as reliably and tightly as possible, since the durability and strength of the entire structure as a whole will depend on the quality of the frame.

• Before installing drywall sheets, it is necessary to strengthen the horizontal guides.
• When the frame is ready, you should proceed to install drywall sheets on it. They must be fixed in a vertical position. To do this, you can use special self-tapping screws for metal 25 mm. But they need to be screwed in such a way that the caps are slightly "drowned" in the drywall.
• After installing all the sheets, the joints between them must be treated with putty using reinforcing tape.
• When the putty is completely dry, the drywall attached to the frame should be completely puttied. After that, the surface of the wall finish will be perfectly even and smooth (without any flaws).

According to experts, this installation technology is simpler. However, it should be borne in mind that such a design will take up part of the area in the room, so in a very small room it is better to use the frameless method, unless, of course, this is allowed to be done.

Profileless structures

The frameless fastening of drywall is also called adhesive, since with it the sheets are fixed on the ceilings with the help of a special adhesive.

When choosing this installation option, you must comply with the following conditions:

• on draft floors there should be no fungus or mold;
• crumbling areas should also not be;

• walls should not be subject to freezing;
• they must be protected from moisture and excessive moisture;
• from the surface of the walls it is necessary to remove old finishing materials, as well as dust, dirt and any other contaminants.

Frameless drywall fasteners can only be accessed if the curvature of the walls does not exceed 4 cm. Otherwise, it is better to build a profile frame.

Glue plasterboard on the base can be in different ways.

The best option must be selected based on the technical condition of the floors:

• The first mounting method is designed for more even surfaces. With it, the fixing of gypsum boards occurs directly on the wall using mounting gypsum glue. It is transferred to the base along the perimeter (longitudinal lines).
• If the floors have irregularities on their surface, then drywall is recommended to be glued to them using Perlfix glue. It must be applied in portions along the entire length of the back side of the gypsum sheet (keep a distance of 35 cm between the heaps of glue), as well as along its perimeter.

Now it is worth considering in more detail the instructions for the profileless installation of drywall sheets:

• First you need to measure the floors and plan the placement of drywall slabs.
• Then you need to correctly prepare the surface of the base. If the wall has a porous structure, then it should be covered with a primer mixture.
• Now you need to cut the GKL sheets, as you will need not only whole panels, but also pre-prepared inserts.
• To make a straight cut, it is better to use a sharp construction knife. If you are going to make curved cuts, then you should use an electric jigsaw.

• Prepare the glue. To do this, you can use modern gypsum mortars, which harden for a long time.
• If the glue dries too quickly and you want to extend its drying time, then it is worth adding wallpaper adhesive or good old PVA to the water for dilution.
• Now you can start gluing drywall to the walls. Pay attention to the thickness of the adhesive layer. It directly depends on the area of ​​irregularities on the base. If the overlaps are sufficiently even, then the mixture can be applied to it immediately.
• To eliminate significant curvature, it is worth putting beacons. They can be built from plasterboard strips with a width of 10 cm. These elements must be glued around the entire perimeter in a vertical position, maintaining a step of 40-50 cm.

• The right and left beacons (extreme) should be mounted using a plumb line.
• After that, focusing on the mounting line (or thread) stretched between the extreme beacons, you need to install the remaining strips.
• Align the beacons with the rule.
• Gypsum boards must be pressed using the rule set in the various provisions. Tap the panels with a rubber mallet and correct their position.
• When the glue dries, the seams between the plasterboard panels must be finished with putty.

Drywall is a lifeline in matters of wall alignment. Installation of gypsum sheets cannot be called unbearably difficult and energy-intensive.

To get a more aesthetic and reliable design, Consider the following advice and recommendations from professionals:

• It is permissible to install gypsum boards in the room only after laying the floor coverings. Also, by the time the floors are leveled in the room, all issues related to laying communications and heating systems should be resolved.
• When gluing drywall (with a frameless method), try to avoid cruciform joints. It is better to lay out sheets with an offset.
• Pay attention to the width of the gaps between the gypsum sheets for profileless installation. This indicator should be from 5 to 7 mm, the gap from the floor - 7-10 mm, and from the ceiling - 3-5 mm.
• In order for the drywall to hold securely on the floors, it is necessary to pay attention to their technical condition. There should be no crumbling and falling apart sections in the walls.

• With the frame installation method, it is recommended to create a chamfer on the cut material (it is needed for better sealing of all finishing seams). For this, it is recommended to use a special edge planer.
• It is recommended to prepare all tools and materials before starting installation work. This will allow you to work without distractions and without wasting time on unnecessary activities.
• Adhesive compositions must be diluted, based on the instructions. It must be printed on the packaging.
• Do not over-tighten fasteners on drywall as this can warp the brittle material.
• To work with drywall you will need a level. Of course, you can choose the tool that is more convenient for you to work with, but experts advise turning to laser devices.

• Pay attention to the temperature regime during installation work. The recommended temperature is +10 degrees. If the room is noticeably cooler, then you should take care of additional heating systems in advance.
• Plasterboard sheets are recommended to be installed on the walls not immediately after purchase, but after they lie down in your house for 2-3 days in dry and warm conditions.

Drywall is one of the most popular building materials. It is used for leveling surfaces, building partitions during redevelopment, installation of various structures. It is not difficult to work with the material, even a novice home master can do it. Installation must begin with the construction of a wooden or metal frame. Despite the fact that the metal base is more durable and easier to install, many prefer a wooden frame for drywall.

Frame materials

The use of a frame makes it possible to hide the flaws of any surfaces without compromising the useful area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Its construction must be taken seriously. The success of further work depends on how accurately it will be calculated and designed.

For the construction of the frame, you need to prepare wooden bars. It should be coniferous wood, the best option is pine.

The material must be flawless and well dried so that during operation it does not deform and withstand heavy loads.

Before starting to work with the material, it should be treated with an antiseptic composition. The antiseptic should not be toxic, since the work will be carried out indoors. It should easily penetrate into the wood, not decompose, not wash out and not have a smell. Do not use oily antiseptics. This can adversely affect the health of the residents of the house.

The thickness of the bars must be at least 40 mm. Permissible humidity - no more than 15-18%. However, the thickness directly depends on the dimensions of the future GKL structure. For example, when constructing a partition, attention should be paid to its width and height. The larger these values, the larger the cross section of the bar should be. For wall or ceiling cladding, the width of the material is selected based on how much usable area I would like to save. If the surfaces are very uneven, you should use bars of different sections.

Base for drywall

Figure 1. Rigid fastening of a wooden frame to the wall.

To fix a wooden frame to walls or ceilings, there are two ways. One of the most reliable is considered to be a rigid mount directly to the wall (Fig. 1). The binding is done first. If the frame is built on the ceiling, then the bars are attached to the walls. If a wooden frame is made for a wall, then the fastening of the bars is carried out to the ceiling, floor and walls located perpendicularly.

The plasterboard frame can be attached to ceilings or walls in another way: using metal brackets. The advantage of this method will be quick installation, and the disadvantage is the low rigidity of the structure.

Before making a wooden frame, for example, on a wooden ceiling, it is necessary to mark up (Fig. 2). For this, the lowest point of the ceiling is determined. From it you need to retreat 50 mm and draw a horizontal line around the entire perimeter of the room. A strapping rail will be fixed along this contour. To draw an accurate horizontal line at the corners of the room, marks are made at the required level. A cord is pulled between them and a straight line is beaten off. In the rail, you need to drill holes for fasteners with a diameter slightly larger than that of a self-tapping screw or screw.

Figure 2. Marking the frame: 1 - prepare a pencil, an angular ruler and a level, 2 - using a level and a pencil, you should make an even marking for fastening the profiles, 3 - the profile is applied to the marking and screwed to the floor and wall, 4 - marking the attachment point with using a plumb line, 5 - assembling the frame and checking the evenness with a level.

The rail is applied to the line on the wall and the marks of future fasteners are transferred to the surface with a pencil. Then holes are drilled into which dowels or wooden plugs for self-tapping screws will be hammered. Reiki are fixed around the perimeter.

The next step is to install the base of the bars on the surface of the ceiling. The fastening step of the parallel bars should not exceed 800 mm. This will ensure the reliability of the future design. Supporting bars are attached perpendicularly, on which drywall will subsequently be mounted.

The frame for the wall can be assembled on the floor and only then fixed to the wall. The size of the wall on which the drywall will be attached is measured. From the result, subtract 5 mm on each side and cut out the bars of the appropriate size. Assemble the frame from 2 horizontal and 2 vertical bars. Additional rails are fastened with a step of 600 mm, crossbars are fixed perpendicular to them. The frame is fixed with dowels, screws or dowel-nails around the entire perimeter of the wall. With this manufacturing method, the heat-insulating layer is attached directly to the wall, and the frame closes it.

In the manufacture of the frame, you can do without transverse bars if its length does not exceed the length of the plasterboard and there are no door or window openings on the wall.

Making a frame for a partition

Before building a frame for drywall, it is necessary to draw up a drawing of the future partition, on which to indicate the location of the doorway. When calculating the rigidity of the structure, the number of horizontal parts should be taken into account.

To complete the work you will need:

1. Level.
2. Pencil.
3. Perforator or drill.
4. Saw.
5. Screwdriver.
6. Self-tapping screws or screws, mounting dowels.
7. Metal corners.
8. Screwdriver.
9. Bars: for vertical racks, the section is at least 40x70 mm, for horizontal - 30x50 mm.

Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the floor, walls and ceiling (Fig. 3). For this, self-tapping screws and dowels are used, if the floors are concrete, and nails, if the floors are wooden. Anchors will be needed for ceiling mounting.

First, the fastening takes place on the ceiling. The boundaries of the future partition are marked, only after that the bars are mounted. With the help of a plumb line, a line is marked on the floor. For more accurate marking on the walls, you need to make several marks. After marking is completed, the beam is fixed on the floor.

Figure 3. Installation of the frame begins with fixing the strapping bars to the walls, floor and ceiling.

The next step is to attach the vertical strapping that will connect the ceiling and floor bars. Vertical racks will carry the main load in the structure, so the fastening should be as strong as possible with a fastening pitch of no more than 400 mm. If the main walls in the room are not made of durable materials, then dowel-nails are used for fastening. You can drill holes in the wall in which to place plugs from wooden pegs and screw in screws or hammer in nails.

If the main walls are strong and smooth, then the strapping can be fixed on straight hangers, which are used for a metal frame.

When the strapping is ready, racks are installed with a pitch of 600 mm. It is this step that will make it possible to mount each standard sheet of plasterboard on two racks. Racks can be fixed with metal corners.

For horizontal lintels, a beam with the same cross section is used as for the entire structure. They are fastened with screws. For greater reliability, metal corners can be used.

The opening for the door in the new partition needs reinforcement. For this, additional racks and horizontal jumpers are used. The threshold will be the lower part of the frame.

Laying communications in such a partition is not recommended. However, if necessary, holes of the required diameter are drilled in the racks. The electric cable is laid in special protective corrugated pipes or tin boxes.

Such a popular finishing material as GKL, in most cases, is attached to a special frame. Usually it is mounted from metal profiles. An alternative option is a crate made of wooden beams, which is very easy to assemble with your own hands. But do not be deceived by the ease of manufacture: wood is a capricious material, its use is far from always possible. Consider all the features of this design and find out when and how you can make a wooden crate for drywall on your own.

Features and disadvantages of wood lathing

The construction of a wooden frame under the gypsum board attracts with its low cost and ease of operation. Especially if during the repair a small number of boards remain, which can be used as slats for the supporting structure. In this case, you do not have to spend money on the purchase of a metal profile, as well as the necessary fasteners, for example.

But you should also remember about the properties of wood that limit its use in construction:

• Wooden structures are subject to change in geometric dimensions with excessive or insufficient moisture. Drywall attached to such a crate will move with it, resulting in cracks that appear at the joints of the sheets. This is a constant process, as the wood gives off moisture when the room is dry or absorbs it when it is too humid.
• Alignment of walls with gypsum boards is often combined with insulation. Under these conditions, ventilation of the wooden parts of the crate is minimal, which leads to their rapid decay.
• Bars are not well suited for leveling walls. It is unacceptable to use wedges for lining: over time, the tree can bend under the influence of moisture and temperature, and weak areas form in the places of such linings.

• It is not recommended to use a wooden frame when finishing with a plasterboard ceiling. This design does not have a sufficient margin of safety; it is better to use a metal profile for this purpose.
• It is unacceptable to use a wooden frame in rooms with a high level of humidity or temperature. Strictly speaking, a crate made of this material is only suitable for rooms with constant microclimate indicators.
• If it is planned to place electrical wires under the GKL surface, then metal guides must be used: wooden elements do not have a sufficient level of fire safety.

When can I make a frame for gypsum boards out of wood?

It is recommended to use a wooden structure for plasterboard sheets:

• In houses made of logs or timber. In this case, the crate is ideally combined with the material of the walls due to the same physical properties. It turns out that any change in humidity is compensated. In such conditions, drywall remains motionless and is not damaged.
• In ordinary apartments with perfectly flat walls. In this case, the timber frame will be a reliable basis for fixing the plasterboard.

Advantages

Advantages of a wooden crate:

• Simple installation, which can be done by hand.
• Available and cheap materials, more environmentally friendly than a metal profile.
• If all the necessary conditions are met, a properly installed crate will last a long time and will be a reliable basis for drywall sheets.

Tools and materials

First of all, you will need a wooden beam itself with a cross section of at least 40 × 40 mm. If it is planned to carry out insulation and soundproofing, then the beam must be chosen thicker, for example 40 × 80 mm. To prevent decay, it is impregnated with antiseptic and water-repellent solutions. It would be useful to treat it with a composition that improves the fire safety of the material.

Before installation, all wooden elements must be kept indoors for several days in order to adapt to its microclimate and take on their final geometric shape.

You will also need:

• Measuring tool: level, plumb line, tape measure.
• Pencil, coated cord.
• and dowels for attaching the timber to the wall.
• A screwdriver and self-tapping screws, as well as corners for connecting frame elements to each other.
• Hacksaw, hammer and construction knife.

As you can see, almost the entire tool can be found in the arsenal of even a novice master. To install a wooden frame and fasten drywall, you do not have to purchase specialized expensive fixtures.

Lathing installation

Preparatory work consists in removing the old coating if there is doubt about its strength. Things in the room can be covered with plastic wrap or other material.

The order of the wooden frame device:

• First you need to do the markup. The size of the GKL determines the optimal step between the vertical posts - 600 mm. Thus, each sheet will be attached to three bars: one in the center, and two at the edges. The joints should be located on the surface of the rack, as shown in the photo.

• A horizontal beam is attached to the ceiling. Using a plumb line, the location of the rail on the floor is determined. They must be located strictly in the same plane.

In the case of a perfectly even overlap, horizontal bars can be attached directly to the wall. Here, the same thickness of all elements of the crate is of paramount importance: any error in size will result in frame irregularities.

• Vertical racks are attached to the beams on the ceiling and floor strictly according to the level. To the wall, they are mounted on dowel-nails, for which holes are pre-drilled in the rails and in the wall for fasteners.

In houses with wooden walls, you can mount racks to the base with wood screws. But you still need to drill holes: this eliminates the likelihood that the beam will crack.

• The heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep into the sheet by 1 mm.
• In the future, as well as deepening the heads of the screws.
• After grinding, the surface is primed and ready for further finishing.

Drywall today takes pride of place and is very popular in construction and repair work. Often, partitions are built to redevelop an apartment, and drywall is simply irreplaceable here. The list of advantages is significant: GKL are quite light, the construction speed is high, and the cost is relatively inexpensive. Very often, drywall is installed on a wooden frame.

Plasterboard partitions

Pine species are often used as the material for the manufacture of a wooden frame for the construction of a plasterboard structure. Such structures can be used as a room partition. What features does a plasterboard partition on a wooden frame have?

The starting stage in the construction of the structure is the installation of the strapping. The bars are fastened in the following order: ceiling-half-wall. If there are wooden floors in the room, then it is easy to fix the bars with simple nails. For 6 cm slats, 10 cm nails are recommended. If the walls are made of materials such as concrete or brick, plus a layer of plaster, then it will be a little more difficult to fix. In this case, fastening is carried out with anchors to the ceiling and dowels to the wall and floor.

Fastening is recommended to start from the ceiling, having previously marked the place of the future partition. Once the bars are fixed on the ceiling, you can mark the floor and continue mounting. It is important to make the markup correctly, you can use a level or a laser level.

When marking, you need to make at least 3 marks on the floor: one on each wall and one in the middle, you can do more, they will not be superfluous, especially since they will not be visible. After the floor beam is fixed, you need to check its position relative to the ceiling.

After you are convinced of the accuracy of the fasteners, you can proceed to fastening the timber to the wall. Everything is much easier here: connect the ceiling with the floor vertical strapping bars. Subsequently, it is on the vertical racks that the main load will fall, so it is extremely important to fix it well. It is equally important to observe the distance between the vertical bars - no more than 40 cm.

Before you begin to strengthen the structure, you need to assess how strong the walls are.

If you are dealing with walls made of fragile materials (cellular concrete, drywall, and so on), dowels of the largest size are needed. It is allowed to use both dowel nails and special dowels. A variant of the following fastening is possible: drill holes in the wall, drive wooden plugs into them, into which you can subsequently screw screws or hammer nails.

Another way to attach the strapping: take straight hangers (usually these are used when installing a metal frame) and fasten the bars with them. This option is perfect if the walls are quite strong.

Once the harness is installed, you can proceed to the installation of racks. Typically, the distance between the racks is 60 cm, which is very convenient - subsequently, the GKL of standard width (120 cm) can be fixed on 2 racks, which facilitates the installation of drywall.

The racks are installed using wooden bars, screwed to the rack and strapping with screws. You can mount racks and metal corners.

If the partition has a doorway, then you need to add the number of racks, as well as jumpers horizontally. If it is possible to do without communications in the partition, then this is excellent. If you still need electrical wiring, then the wires should be placed in a protective tube or use a tin box.

Partition wall insulation: the nuances

Sometimes you can’t do without additional insulation in a building, especially if the partition is not decorative. Installation of insulating materials is carried out when plasterboard sheathing is made on one side of the wooden frame. Mineral wool and foam materials are considered the optimal insulation material.

Insulation is quite easy to perform, since the dimensions of the distance between the racks and materials are the same. It remains only to lay the material and fix it. If a rigid material is chosen as insulation, then its fastening must be carried out on the inside of an already lined partition. If cavities are formed during installation, they can be filled with mineral wool. The combination of materials will give a high soundproofing effect.

Often, in the process of facing the second side with plates, a problem arises on the racks in the form of cracks. This is due to the large number of screws. It is easy to avoid such a mistake if the joints of the plates on the walls are made from opposite sides (for example, the 1st side is sheathed on the left, the 2nd on the right).

It is important to remember that a small gap of 1-2 cm must be left between the ceiling and the top of the drywall. The need is that the gypsum in the slab may begin to crumble. The gap will not be noticeable, it is easily closed with a simple plinth.

Extended baffle

There are also extended partitions when the installation of drywall is carried out on a double wooden frame. The advantage of this type of construction is that it is possible to lay communications and even install heating radiators.

The differences in the construction of an extended partition are that the strapping will need to be done from 2 sides, leaving the distance that is necessary for communications. A wooden frame is built according to the same principles as a simple partition. As soon as the sheathing is completed on one side, the necessary communications can be laid. The wires must be in a pipe or box.

If there is a need to install a battery, then it should not be installed in the middle of the structure, but closer to one of the sides. Do not forget about the ventilation holes, then they need to be closed with plastic bars. It must be remembered that if you install a battery, then it is impossible to insulate the partition with foam rubber or foam. Mineral wool will perfectly cope with the task. After laying communications, the installation process looks similar to a simple partition.

Mounting on an uneven wall

Not always the room can differ in perfectly smooth walls. The installation of the frame in this case looks a little different. It’s worth starting with identifying irregularities: the beam is placed on the floor along the wall and a line is drawn along its outer edge. Next comes the markings for future racks at a distance of 60 cm. The next step: the rack bar must be pressed against the wall vertically and at regular intervals mark the position of the butt behind its exit on the floor.

It is important to place the support beam evenly, because vertical bars will be attached to it further. To align the racks, you can take scraps of fiberboard, wood or plywood.

You can do the installation of drywall with your own hands, having an idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat should happen. It is important to follow a certain algorithm of actions, there is no need to rush here, because it will not be so easy to correct mistakes later. Before the process, you need to make all the necessary measurements and calculations, stock up on the entire set of material and tools that you need. For example:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• pencil;
• hacksaw;
• metal scissors;
• drill;
• level.

But the most basic, perhaps, moment in the construction of a plasterboard partition is the documentation for permission. It is not recommended to start work before you have received all the necessary permits.

This article provides instructions on how to attach drywall to wood battens and make installing drywall to wood framing quick and easy.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame

Cladding of walls and ceilings of internal premises is a fast, inexpensive and fairly labor-intensive modern method of finishing the interiors of civil and public buildings.

There are several options for plasterboard sheathing (GKL):

• Direct installation, it can be done with a gypsum mortar or special adhesive mastics, if the walls and ceilings have an even prepared base
• A wooden or metal frame for drywall should be used if the work surface has distortions, severe waviness, tuberosity and other irregularities

As a frame structure, both profiles made of galvanized metal sheet and wooden elements - a rail, a bar, a board can serve. A possible frame for drywall made of wood may be preferable to a metal profile, since installing drywall with your own hands on a wooden frame is not particularly difficult and does not require special skills. Wood is easy to process - drilled, sawn.

Is it possible to mount drywall on a wooden frame? Yes, and besides, this allows you to save on finishing, refusing to purchase quite expensive metal profiles. However, a drywall frame made of wood is not recommended when the room has high humidity - in bathrooms, boiler rooms, showers and bathrooms.

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Do-it-yourself wooden frame for drywall

How to make a wooden frame for drywall? If a partition is sheathed, it is usually a three-layer structure made of edged boards with a thickness of 25-30 mm. The outer layers are formed from vertical boards, and the inner layer from horizontal ones. If the installation of the partition is done neatly and competently, without distortions, then such a partition actually forms a frame for plasterboard from boards, to which, without any preparation, using self-tapping screws, you can fasten panels from plasterboard.

The use of a board for the manufacture of frame structures in other cases is impractical, as this will lead to an overrun of the material and an increase in the cost and labor intensity of the work. For facing concrete, brick, logs, as well as old warped walls and ceilings, it is better to use a frame made of timber for drywall.

Many are interested in whether drywall can be mounted on wooden slats? Since the difference between wood products (such as a bar and a rail) in relation to the installation of drywall is insignificant, the installation of drywall on wooden slats and the installation of drywall on bars practically do not differ from each other.

Fastening drywall to the wall on a wooden frame

Can drywall be fixed to wooden blocks if they are simply fixed to the walls or ceiling? This option is possible, but it is better to make a frame for drywall from wooden blocks. In how to fix the beam to drywall, a small instruction for installing drywall on a wooden frame from a beam will help.

For drywall, panels with the following dimensions are most widely used: 1200 mm wide and 2500 mm long. At the same time, the installation of panels on a frame structure made of wood of different types and characteristics (moisture resistant, hardened, etc.) has the same scope of work.

Procurement of the necessary materials, fixtures and tools

To determine the required number of GKL slabs, it is necessary to draw a sketch plan for the development of walls and ceilings with all door and window openings, slopes and technological niches (for example, for heating radiators). After calculating the working area, its value should be divided by the area that one GKL has. The resulting value will need to be increased by 20% (for trimming and contingencies), which will be the number of panels required.

• for fastening adjacent plates - with dimensions of 80 x 25 mm (first type)
• for intermediate vertical and horizontal fasteners - with dimensions of 40 x 25 mm (second type)

It is necessary to put on the plan vertical and horizontal axes, along which frame elements will be installed on the wall, ensuring the fastening of drywall to wooden blocks. Its design scheme will be:

• two vertical beams of the first type 2500 mm long along the edges of the slab with a distance between them along the line of axes 1200 mm
• two vertical beams of the second type, 2500 mm long, with a distance between themselves and the beams of the first type in the axes of 400 mm
• six horizontal bars of the second type, installed at the top and bottom of the slab
• three intermediate ones, which must be installed along axes located at a distance of 1250 mm from the upper and lower edges of the plate; the length of the extreme bars will be 400-80 / 2-40 / 2 \u003d 340 mm, the length of the middle ones - 400 - 40/2 - 40/2 \u003d 360 mm

Additionally, bars of the second type should be used to frame window and door openings and technological niches. If the height of the room exceeds 2500 mm, the upper horizontal beam is replaced with a beam with a section of 80 x 40 mm and is installed so that an additional 40 mm serves to fasten the top panel from a GKL sheet cut to the appropriate length, the length of the vertical beams of the first and second should also be increased type and the top beam of the second type is installed.

After calculating the total length of the required number of beams and also increasing it by 20%, they can be purchased at the construction market or made in a woodworking workshop. It is especially necessary to pay attention to the absence of oblique and increased branchiness in them.

Before using for at least one week, the entire set of wooden beams must be aged in the room in which it will be used. After that, a rejection should be carried out, and the rest should be treated with special compounds - antiseptics that prevent decay and damage by fungi and mold, flame retardants that give fire retardant properties. Currently, deep penetration impregnations are commercially available that provide protection for wood and prevent warping during fluctuations in humidity in a room within a fairly wide range.

In the manufacture and installation of the frame, it is necessary to follow the drawn plan.

Required Tools

Tools and equipment that will be required to complete the work:

• wood saw
• construction knife
• building corner
• steel rail-rule 1200-1500 mm long
• bubble level
• water level (when facing the ceiling)
• plumb line
• a hammer
• electric screwdriver
• ladder, stepladder, it is allowed to build and use self-made building scaffolding goats
• protective equipment (hand gloves, goggles, respirators)

General provisions

The assembly of the frame and its installation from individual prepared elements with your own hands directly on the ceiling or on the wall presents some difficulties - constant alignment and adjustment in horizontal and vertical planes is required with the constant use of a plumb line, level, building square and rail-rule.

If the length and width of the room allow, an enlarged assembly of large fragments of the frame can be done directly on the floor. At the same time, it will be much easier to mount the frame, both on the wall and on the ceiling, and align and attach, respectively, in the vertical and horizontal planes.

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The horizontal and vertical elements are well connected to each other using pieces of tin metal strip of the desired width (25 mm) bent at a right angle or through small blocks. Both those and others are fixed in the necessary places with the help of screws.

The installation of frame fragments on the walls and ceiling can be done using wood screws, if the walls and ceiling are wooden, using the so-called “plugs”, when a hole is drilled in a brick or stone in the right place, at a predetermined point in the wall, into which a wooden chopstick, into which, in turn, a nail is driven through the frame element or a screw is screwed in, while instead of a chopik, you can use a plastic dowel with a metal self-tapping screw.

After installing and leveling the frame, with significant tuberosity and distortions between it and the wall (or ceiling), gaps may form, which should be filled with gypsum mortar (if the tree was previously protected with moisture-proof impregnation), use mounting foam or wooden wedges and linings together with glue glue for wood, such as PVA. Otherwise, the wooden frame for plasterboard on the wall (or ceiling) will have increased fragility and may be deformed when the GKL panels are installed.

Installation of drywall on a wooden frame

After installation and alignment on the wall or on the ceiling of the frame structure, you can begin to fasten the drywall to the wooden frame by directly mounting the GKL panels. In how to fix the bars to drywall, the following instructions will help.

To mount a plasterboard sheet, it must be pressed tightly against the mounted wooden frame structure, so that the long edges of the sheet lie exactly along the axes of the first type beam with a section of 80 x 25 mm at a distance of 40 mm, and so that it is possible to fix to the remaining 40 mm adjacent sheet.

Fastening is carried out using self-tapping screws with a length of 20 mm. Using a screwdriver, you need to start fixing the GKL sheet on the frame, starting with the middle intermediate horizontal element of the second type. In order not to be mistaken with twisting, it is better to draw lines on the outer side of the drywall sheet with a pencil corresponding to the axes of the frame elements.

After that, you need to fix the sheet to the upper and lower horizontal frame elements. If the panel is to be mounted on a wall, its verticality and the absence of distortions must be checked using a plumb line, and on the ceiling - using a level.

Then the sheet can be fastened with vertical posts. When tightening the screws, it should be noted that the distance from them to the edge of the sheet must be at least 20 mm. The pitch between adjacent screws should be 100-120 mm.

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The instruction on how drywall should be mounted on the ceiling is not much different from how to mount the plasterboard on the wall. On the horizontal surface of the ceiling, a horizontal crate in the form of a frame is also arranged, which should be attached to the ceiling structures and aligned horizontally using a water level. For the convenience of its installation, it is also better to pre-mount the enlarged elements of the frame on the floor.

In order to mount a frame from a drywall beam on the ceiling and sheathe it with plasterboard, your hands may not be enough. An assistant may be required for installation. In exceptional cases, you can use supports and braces that can help you install drywall on bars alone, but this method should be used with caution, as unforeseen situations may arise associated with the fall and destruction of drywall sheets.