Watch how to make a small greenhouse with your own hands. Greenhouse made of straw and window frames

A greenhouse is a simple structure designed for growing seedlings, which everyone can equip. What material and how to make it correctly, where to install it and how to heat it, are far from idle questions. Let's discuss them today.

What is the difference between greenhouses and greenhouses, we have already found out; the answer to this question can be found. Let me briefly remind you: a greenhouse is a small unheated structure that is used to grow seedlings and various vegetables. Unlike a greenhouse, which can reach a height of 3 m or more, in a greenhouse this parameter does not exceed 1.5 m. In addition, greenhouses are often equipped with artificial heating, and greenhouses are heated by sunlight and heat released during the oxidation of biofuels.

Sometimes tunnel shelters are singled out as a separate category of structures (as in the photo above), arguing that it is wrong to call them greenhouses. But we will not complicate the classification, and we will consider them as one of the varieties of greenhouses.

What to build a greenhouse from

Another difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse is the ease of manufacture. - the matter is quite troublesome, it requires not only ingenuity, but also certain skills, and financial costs. But it is not difficult to equip a greenhouse even alone, using affordable and inexpensive materials for this.

As a greenhouse cover, as a rule, polyethylene film (plain or reinforced) or non-woven (lutrasil, spunbond) is used. Less commonly used cellular polycarbonate; in greenhouses made of window frames, glass is usually installed.

The base of the greenhouse (frame) can be of various shapes: arcuate, triangular, "house" (like a miniature greenhouse) and so on. As a material for the frame, polypropylene pipes, metal and fiberglass fittings are used, wooden blocks, window frames. Greenhouses are often stationary, but can also be installed as a temporary shelter for plants. Let's see how this looks in practice.

Simple arched greenhouse (tunnel shelter)

This building is probably familiar to every summer resident.

To equip a simple greenhouse, ready-made arcs made of a bent polypropylene pipe and an ordinary plastic film stretched over them are enough. The film, so that it is not torn off by the wind, must be pressed to the ground with bricks on both sides.

The bases of the arcs can be attached to wooden frame Or just stick it in the ground. The optimal distance between the arcs is 50 cm.

To give the structure greater rigidity, horizontal rails are used attached to the arcs, they do not allow them to deform and move. Sometimes additional vertical supports are installed under the first and last arc, then the greenhouse keeps its shape perfectly all season. However, as you can clearly see in the photo above, you can successfully do without such additions.

Express greenhouse made of wooden gratings

If the construction of arcs and film seems too flimsy to you, you can use the experience described here in this publication:. A greenhouse for seedlings from wooden lattices is assembled as quickly as from arcs, but the structure is more rigid and stable.

A greenhouse made of wooden gratings is very easy to assemble. Photo by

The disadvantage of this design is that its height is quite small - it is only suitable for obtaining early greenery and seedlings.

Stationary wooden greenhouse

Even more durable, stable and reliable will be a stationary greenhouse, assembled from wooden blocks and boards, for example this one.

To build it, you will need minimal skills: any summer resident who is at least a little familiar with a saw and a hammer will master such a construction :) The shape and size of such a greenhouse are arbitrary - it all depends on the availability of space, materials, your building skills and the crops that are supposed to be in the greenhouse grow. An interesting option such a structure is presented here in this video:

Interesting mini-greenhouse idea, right?

Greenhouse with metal frame

If you want to build a greenhouse "for centuries", make a frame from steel pipes or a corner. It can be welded (this is reliable, but it will not be possible to disassemble such a structure), but it can also be made collapsible.

Such a frame can be covered not only with a film, but also with cellular polycarbonate. A greenhouse made in this way is good for everyone: it can be quickly assembled and disassembled, it is easy to rearrange to another place in the garden, it does not take up much space during storage.

You can find a large ready-made greenhouses and accessories in our catalog, which contains offers from large online stores of seeds and planting material. .

Clips for fastening the film and covering material to the greenhouse frame d 20 mm, 10 pcs. 195 rub LOOK
seedspost.ru

OBI Frame greenhouse OBI with PVC coating 2.7 m 1 999 RUB LOOK
OBI

Greenhouse set-agro successful 4 m ka3180 854 rub LOOK
All Tools

Greenhouse "Snowdrop Plus" 6 meters 1 450 RUB LOOK
TENTY.RU

The following options are not suitable for everyone, but I still decided to talk about them.

Greenhouse from old window frames

I propose to talk in more detail about how to build a greenhouse from frames. And for inspiration - here is such a wonderful photo :)

The design of this greenhouse is clear and without descriptions. We will build something more complicated with you - our greenhouse is suitable not only for seedlings, but also for growing tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers.

We will need:

• several window frames;
• a couple of long boards and not too thick logs or timber;
• old brick - for the foundation;
• self-tapping screws - for connecting frames to each other.

Let's decide on the dimensions:

• length: the optimal length of a greenhouse made of window frames does not exist - it will depend on the size and number of these same frames. True, it does not make sense to arrange a greenhouse that is too long, since it is unlikely to be convenient to use;

• width and height: these parameters, as you already understood, will also depend on which frame size is used. Make sure they are the same size before starting assembly.

Work sequence:

1. We adjust the boards and timber to the desired size, coat them with working off (used automobile oil) or bituminous mastic.
2. We lay out bricks along the perimeter of the future greenhouse, put a beam directly on them.
3. From the inside, to the beam on the screws, we vertically fasten the boards; the distance between them should be slightly less than the width of the frames.
4. On top (on the outer side), to the vertically fixed boards, we fasten more boards in such a way that the upper edge of the horizontally located board completely coincides with the ends of the vertical supports. Then we attach the rafters to the ends of the boards with a “house” (this shape of the roof is needed so that water flows normally from the greenhouse).
5. On the assembled frame of timber and boards, we fasten window frames with the same self-tapping screws.

Advice: at least one of the frames in the greenhouse should open: to do this, “put” it on the hinges on one side, and fasten it with a hook on the other.

Place for a greenhouse

It is desirable to place a greenhouse on the site from east to west - only in this position will the shadows from the supports be minimized, and the rays of the sun will be able to illuminate the plants at an optimal angle.

At the same time, the place where it is planned to install a greenhouse should be fairly flat, not blown by the winds, well lit.

Greenhouse heating

Ideally, a constant temperature should be maintained inside the greenhouse. You can heat a greenhouse with:

• electricity: for this, heating wires are used, which are laid with a snake on the bottom of the greenhouse (previously it is covered with a layer of gravel 2 cm thick, 3 cm of washed sand on it). From above, the wire is again covered with washed sand (a layer of 5 cm), and its ends are connected to a 220 V network. To protect the wire from accidental mechanical damage, it is necessary to lay a thin iron sheet on top of the sand, and then pour nutrient soil mixture on it. For me, to be honest, this method of heating greenhouses is not very cost-effective and quite exotic, but it's up to you;

• solar heating: with The easiest, most common and cheapest way :) Advice: in order for the sun to heat the greenhouse well, try to always keep the glass or film in it clean;

• biofuels: exactly biological method heating a greenhouse is considered the most effective, while it is affordable and economical - after all, heat is released during the decomposition of ordinary manure, and it will not be difficult to fill a greenhouse with it.

The use of biofuels in the greenhouse

The side earthen walls of the greenhouse should be lined with insulating material (for example, foam), and on the bottom, before laying manure, lay a dense layer of straw, leaves or peat chips. The more leaves used (as a percentage), the lower the temperature inside the greenhouse will be. We make the stuffing itself, alternating layers of manure and leaves (a simple manipulation will help to keep the heat released during fermentation for as long as possible).

When packing, remember that the substrate settles over time, so the layer must be high enough. And one more thing: for stuffing, you can use only good quality leaves - not rotted. A layer of soil is poured into the greenhouse directly on the organic matter.

Using biofuel in a greenhouse, it is worth considering that manure is different and, accordingly, the methods of its laying differ:

• horse dung - best option biofuels used to heat greenhouses. Already a week after its laying, the temperature inside the greenhouse rises to +50 ... + 60 ° С. Moreover, it lasts for about 1.5-2 months, and then drops to + 20 ° C. Due to the release of such a large amount of heat, it is most advisable to use horse manure in early greenhouses - for seedlings;
• cow dung, of course, is slightly inferior to horse, because as a result of its decomposition, the temperature in the greenhouse only reaches +40 ... + 50 ° C, but it is also considered an excellent biofuel for heating a greenhouse. It “burns”, that is, it emits heat, for about two weeks, after which the temperature inside the greenhouse drops to + 20 ° C;
• pig manure in the process of decomposition, it releases even less heat than cow's - about +40 ... + 45 ° С, although the temperature in the greenhouse also lasts about 2 weeks;
• sheep, goat and rabbit manure are in no way inferior to horse, releasing approximately the same amount of heat during decomposition.

About why you need a greenhouse in the country, and how to equip it with minimal cost detailed in this video:

A lot of useful information about greenhouses and their arrangement can be gleaned from these publications.

A greenhouse is a predecessor and a simplified seasonal analogue of a greenhouse. The design of greenhouses varies greatly, from those that do not need anything other than a film for shelter, to structures about which you can’t exactly tell by the look whether it’s still a greenhouse or already a greenhouse. Having made a greenhouse with your own hands, you can first supply the family with early / late vegetables and herbs and at the same time master the intricacies of the greenhouse economy, without risking losing a lot of initial investments due to mistakes due to inexperience. And if things go well, then build a real all-season greenhouse and get vegetable delicacies to the table all year round; possibly establish a profitable business.

PC greenhouse

Currently, light-transmitting coatings for greenhouses are made almost exclusively from polycarbonate (PC). This material was developed for this, and only later did its advantages appear in the construction of gazebos, canopies, porch shelters, pools, etc. However, build homemade greenhouse polycarbonate is necessary with an eye to the following circumstances:

• PC is sold only in whole sheets from 2x6 to 2x12 m; do not cut it into pieces.
• Cost per 1 sq. m of the cheapest PC structure 2R with a thickness of 4 mm is less than that of glass, and is comparable to the cost of agrofilm, see below.
• Without fairly expensive complete fittings (standard fasteners with thermal compensators, edging profiles, aluminum tape, filter tape for ends), outdoor PC will last no more than 3-4 years.
• The installation of a PC is most often carried out with prestressing due to the bending of the sheets. This gives the structure greater strength, but requires a reinforced (and, accordingly, more expensive) frame of a special design; see e.g. .

Based on this, it is recommended to make a greenhouse under polycarbonate either if there are scraps remaining, for example, from, or using a single flat sheet in a fairly rigid frame, see below. It is better to design your first greenhouse under the film, especially since there are options for which nothing but it is needed.

What's going on in the greenhouse?

A greenhouse with plants in it and the soil in which they are planted is a rather thin biosystem. Its main difference from the natural ones is in the forced change of biorhythms for the sake of the fastest development / maturation and greater productivity of greenhouse crops. From the point of view of biology, a greenhouse is not a greenhouse at all; in that biorhythms are close to natural, only intensified. Therefore, this section outlines the basic information necessary to properly make a greenhouse.

Plants

The biorhythm of plants in a greenhouse generally corresponds to the natural one, see fig. on the right, but with some differences that speed up their "growing up", see below.

In the world:

1. Vegetative parts - leaves, green stems - absorb carbon dioxide and water from the soil with minerals dissolved in it;
2. Produce metabolic oxygen. Oxygen for breathing is absorbed as always, but much more metabolic is released;
3. As a result of photosynthesis, dissolved organic, so-called. plastic, substances necessary for the growth and development of the plant;
4. Plastic substances partially enter storage (tubers, bulbs, rhizomes, chlorophyll-free parts of stems) and generative (flowers, ripening fruits) organs, and are partially deposited in the so-called. depot - special cells or cell structures of vegetative parts.

At night or in the dark:

1. The vegetative parts and roots take in oxygen for respiration and release carbon dioxide;
2. Green leaves, in addition, allocate excess water in the form of water vapor through the stomata or, more rarely, in the form of drops through the water stomata - hydathodes;
3. Depots of plastic substances are depleted, spending a day's supply;
4. Plastic substances also enter the roots, ensuring their growth. The roots grow mainly at night.

Conclusion #1: during the day, when it is warm enough outside to ensure at least minimal plant life, the greenhouse needs to be ventilated. Plants consume little oxygen for breathing, but it should still be enough for the night, otherwise rot and disease will go. It is desirable to ventilate until noon, when the sun warms up, so that the nightly excess of CO2 and H2O immediately disappears.

the greenhouse effect

Greenhouse coverings are made of materials that transmit visible light well, but reflect as well as possible, directly or diffusely (diffusely) thermal (infrared, IR) rays. So the greenhouse effect in greenhouses is different from what is in the earth's atmosphere and everyone is talking about, see fig.

Afternoon:

• Some of the visible light is used by plants for photosynthesis;
• Another share is absorbed by the molecules of greenhouse gases - carbon dioxide and water vapor - transferring them to the highest energy level;
• Another part of the light is absorbed by the soil, which immediately re-radiates it in the IR, warming the air and the structure of the greenhouse;
• Part of the IR from the soil is re-reflected from the coating (on the left in the figure, for simplicity, only 1 branch is shown) and ultimately also heats it, the air, and the structure. IR practically does not interact with greenhouse gas molecules;
• The temperature of the soil is sufficient for root activity, but may be lower than that outside, directly heated by the Sun.

Note: CO2 molecules, which are heavier than air, are concentrated mainly in the lower part of the greenhouse, and H2O, which are lighter - under the roof.

At night:

• The temperature of the soil in the greenhouse is higher than it is not only outside, but also the air temperature in the greenhouse, which spurs the growth of roots and sap flow in plants;
• The soil gives off the stored heat both directly to the air by convection and by illuminating IR;
• Greenhouse gas molecules are also emitted by IR, warming the air and promoting sap flow in the aerial parts of plants;
• There are heat losses through the coating;

Conclusion #2: thus, greenhouse vegetation "works in 3 shifts", which ensures the fastest growth / maturation.

The soil

Fertile soil (we do not touch hydroponics) is the most complex biocenosis, inhabited by an innumerable multitude of the smallest living beings that cannot live anywhere else. Therefore, there is a whole school of biologists who classify the soil, along with anthills, termite mounds, coral buildings, as “superorganisms”. In this case, the soil cover is the largest living formation on Earth.

In the greenhouse, the soil is also forced to work in 3 shifts. Moreover, in spring and autumn - in antiphase with the natural rhythm of heating / cooling, and the soil in the greenhouse is quickly depleted. Hence the 1st consequence of the main difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse: it cannot work on the same soil for more than 1 season, even with its reclamation. So greenhouses according to the nature of soil use are divided into:

1. Ground - the simplest of the film alone. They are satisfied when there is no need for a strong greenhouse effect, for example. under seedlings in the regions warm enough.
2. Mobile - the upper structure of the greenhouse, as the soil is depleted, is transferred to a new location.
3. Bulk - they can stay in one place for a long time, but natural soil is not used: special soil mixtures are poured into the greenhouse formwork, which are changed at least once a year. These are built most often on junk lean land.

Note: The most effective way to get the most out of the greenhouse land and at the same time leave it (under ground or mobile greenhouse) fit for regeneration is soil heating, see below.

After the first 2 types, it is required to restore soil fertility. Most quickly, but not completely, this is done by sowing next year with nitrogen-fixing crops; primarily legumes - peas, beans. The following year, flowers, cabbage, greenery, plant berry bushes can be grown on this area.

For complete natural reclamation, before sowing nitrogen fixers, the land is allowed to rest for a year under fallow, and only then legumes are sown. In this case, the reclaimed soil is suitable for any crops, incl. strawberries and root vegetables. With the constant use of the greenhouse, then you need 4 identical plots of land:

• under the greenhouse;
• Resting under steam;
• Planted with nitrogen fixers;
• Under open ground crops.

Conclusion #3: to build a greenhouse is still half, or even a third of the case. The main thing is to find and allocate for him suitable site, taking into account the circulation of crops on their land and the availability of free space.

How to warm the earth?

Since ancient times, the land in greenhouses, as you know, was heated with manure. If the harvest went to the table, then exclusively horse. Others heat worse and oversaturate the soil with nitrates; the effect of their excess on health was noticed long before the development of scientific agrochemistry and the very concept arose.

Horse manure was valued as a biofuel even then, and if you think about its availability now, then an American joke comes to mind: Joe, did you hear? Tomorrow, a completely naked Uma Thurman (Marilyn Monroe, Liz Taylor, Angelina Jolie, etc. - all the same) will ride along Main Street on horseback! Wow, I'll definitely go check it out! I have never seen a live horse in my life!”

1. The steam comb is simple but least effective. It is used mainly in more or less warm places on cow dung for seedlings.
2. Steam furrow - uses the heat of the fuel more economically. It can also be arranged on cow dung, and crops that accumulate little nitrates can be grown on the sides.
3. Steam ridge - nitrates almost do not diverge to the sides, it warms the furrows better. It is used in combination with both film and hard cover. The disadvantage is that a lot of space is lost, because. nothing can be planted on the ridge itself. The steam bed is mainly framed by warm pits, see below.
4. Warm furrow - warms for a long time, but weakly. Most often it is made with onions and greens.
5. Seedling steam bed - seedling seeds are sown in the gaps between the ridges. On top you can plant onions, sow dill. If the seedlings are ready, and the biofuel has not yet decayed, ordinary plants can be planted in between. garden cucumbers and let the lashes run along the supports on the ridges.

Technoheat

In Runet, they write a lot about electric heating of the soil. But, firstly, no electrical safety rules and electrical installations for household appliances nothing of the kind is provided, and this is not a purely formal ban, but caused by the many dead human lives. An electrical cable in the ground is not a warm floor in a house with thermal insulation. Secondly, electric heating is rarely used in large commercial greenhouses, it is uneconomical. And in small greenhouses, the ratio of the area through which heat is lost to the volume in which it is released is tens and hundreds of times higher. Here, in order to raise the temperature of the soil by 1 degree with an outside temperature of -5, it will take approx. 800 W/sq. m. How much you have to pay - consider yourself at your own rates. If the circuit breaker, meter and wiring can withstand such a current at 220V.

Meanwhile, with the same -5 “overboard”, the simplest, most primitive area of ​​1 sq. m in the middle latitudes will ensure the heating of the soil to a temperature at least allowing to save the plants, in an area of ​​approx. 3 sq. m, if you use the scheme shown in Fig. In this case, you can use old heating radiators: thin-walled steel collectors are used as a heat sink, and cast-iron "accordions" are best suited for heaters.

The heaters are installed before backfilling the pit (depth approx. 1 m) with sand on supports so that their warm edges are 15-25 cm higher than the cold ones. The supports must be strong, otherwise the heaters may sag and the circulation of the coolant will be disturbed. The presence of a filling pipe is mandatory; without it, the system will become airy when heated due to the release of gases dissolved in water. Please also note that the return is also insulated, although not as thick as the supply. The temperature of the water in it is higher than the ground, and this heat must be preserved.

Note: in case of long cloudy weather, with the possibility of frost, it is better to fill the system with antifreeze. The collector will also work from scattered light.

Land for backfill

To do away with the soil, we give 3 more well-known recipes for soil mixtures for bulk greenhouses. They are also in other sources, but their qualities do not change from this.

No. 1, general purpose:

• Peat land (rotted peat) - 6 parts.
• Garden, leaf or sod land - 1 part.
• Humus (can be from a compost heap) - 2 parts.
• Calcined or washed river sand (can be building) - 1 part.
• Slaked lime - 3 kg / cu. m.

No. 2, for bulbous, root crops, greens:

1. Sawdust (not resinous) - 5 parts.
2. Wood ash - 1 part.
3. Straw chaff - 1 part.
4. Peat land - 3 parts.
5. Immediately before landing, add 1 sq. m 20 g of potassium sulfate and 30 g of superphosphate or 10 g of wood ash.

No. 3, self-heating for flowers and seedlings:

• Nearly matured peat - 2 parts.
• Horse manure - 1 part.
• Straw chaff - 1 part.
• Contribute before landing on 1 cu. m mixture of 300 g of urea, 2 kg of potassium chloride and 3 kg of superphosphate.

Conclusion #4: depending on the presence or absence of additional heating of the soil, greenhouses are divided into warm and cold. Greenhouses backfilled with self-heating earth are among the latter. Warm greenhouses are able to ensure vegetation and fruiting at a consistently sub-zero outside temperature, and cold ones can be built when the tubercles wither after the snow melts.

How to build a greenhouse?

Coatings

The light-transmitting coating is the main structural element of the greenhouse, which mainly determines its effectiveness. Hard coatings are mentioned above: glass is more durable than PC, but it retains heat worse. In addition, the PC from ultraviolet (UV) deteriorates, so it is produced covered with a protective film on one side. During installation, it must be protected from damage and the sheets must be mounted with the protected side out. Greenhouses are lower than porches, gazebos and, therefore, the probability of damage to the protection of the PC is higher here, at least from grains of sand carried by the wind. The material under the damaged film becomes cloudy and cracks.

Films

For covering greenhouses, films with a thickness of 120 microns or more (in extreme cases, from 60 microns) made of polyethylene (PE), ethylene vinyl acetate (EVA), polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyisopropylene (PP) are usually used. The latter for greenhouses are produced in the form nonwoven fabric under the names of agrofibre, agrofilm, strapbond, SKF- (numbers indicating the brand). Comparative characteristics of films for greenhouses are as follows:

1. PE- cheap and bad. Light transmits little, IR reflects unimportantly. Almost does not keep heat, does not save from frost. Serves 1 season; most often - in the spring to summer.
2. PVC- a little more expensive than PE, but in terms of optics with thermal engineering it is satisfactory. Provides plus in a cold greenhouse at - (3-5) outside. From UV becomes cloudy, becomes brittle. Serves 1-3 seasons depending on the insolation of the place.
3. EVA- a little more expensive, but quite resistant to UV. Optics and heat engineering like PVC.
4. PP- is produced milky white, but the light transmission is high, and diffuse, which excludes plant burns by direct light. Excellent reflects IR, also diffuse; this gives the maximum greenhouse effect. It allows moisture to pass through, so that soil greenhouses and pits (see below) under agrofibre can be watered through the film. It also selectively passes gases, so it is not necessary to lift the cover for ventilation. Resistant to UV and mechanical damage, serves more than 5 years, up to 10-15 years. Allows sewing on Velcro, buttons, zippers, installation of eyelets and other accessories. Quite expensive, almost like PC, but agrofibre is an ideal cover for a greenhouse.

Note: for the installation and repair of agrofilm, a special agroscotch is produced, which is kept in the open air for a long time. In addition, it is widely used in the construction of greenhouses.

Varieties

The main structures of greenhouses are shown in fig. Pos. 1 - primer film. This is the simplest greenhouse from only one film. It is built mainly for seedlings or, when using biofuel devoid of excess nitrates, for low-growing crops - radishes, lettuce, onions. The width of the ridges along the bottom is 20-30 cm. The height is either 35-40 cm if the film is laid directly on them, or 25-30 cm if the coating is supported by trellises on flyers, as on the right in fig. with heating circuits. Advantages - simplicity and cheapness; disadvantages - poor use of light, difficulty of care, and barely 1/4 of the total area under the greenhouse goes directly under the plants.

Note: the first 2 shortcomings of the soil film greenhouse can be eliminated by covering with agrofilm.

Pos. 2 - warm hole. Surrounded by a steam bed, can be covered with both film and glass / PC in the frame. Suitable for any undersized crops. The disadvantage is the poor use and high consumption of biofuels, because. more than half of its heat goes to the sides. Use is expedient as a help in commercial meat and dairy farming on cattle or goat manure. Sheep is not suitable for health indicators and heats very poorly.

About Russian pits

In this case, not about the pits on the domestic routes of communication, which are the talk of the town from Trediakovsky to Pelevin, but about the Russian in-depth greenhouse. At one time, the Russian greenhouse was a revelation for European farmers. It was from the “Russian pits” that the nobility of that time received a green onion, lettuce, dill, parsley, radish, strawberries to the table in winter.

The device and drawings of the Russian greenhouse are shown in fig. Greenhouse pits were usually made 3-4, which ensured year-round use: while 1 pit was warmed up after refueling, the rest produced products. An indispensable condition for the successful operation of the Russian greenhouse is the lining of the entire complex of pits with a clay castle with a drainage ditch, otherwise the biofuel will turn sour.

Note: instead of log cabins, it is now possible to lay concrete lintels for window-doors, trellis posts for grapes, etc. Instead of glass, insert a PC into the frames, this will allow you to raise the northern edge by 35-40 cm above the ground and grow tomatoes. And instead of silver-plated mirrors, use any flat shields pasted over with aluminum foil for baking. The earth above the biofuel is poured No. 1.

Pos. 3 - film tunnel on a collapsible frame. For novice farmers, this is certainly the best greenhouse:

• Simple and cheap, requires little or no building/carpentry work; see below for Snowdrop.
• Keeps enough fresh air for the plants to breathe at night.
• A large volume of air over the shelter gives a strong greenhouse effect, which makes it possible to build cold greenhouse tunnels, ready for action immediately after the snow melts.
• Allows you to grow quite tall crops, up to long-fruited cucumbers.
• It is easily transferred to another place, and the possibilities of land turnover are limited only by the available sown area.

About "Snowdrop"

The film-tunnel type greenhouse of industrial production "Snowdrop" is probably the most popular in the Russian Federation and the CIS, and for good reason: retail purchase of components for a home-made analogue can cost more than purchase ready kit. Just in case, in Fig. a diagram of its device and installation is given.

Greenhouse "Snowdrop"

Please note that:

1. The advantages of "Snowdrop" appear only when covered with agrofilm;
2. Ate to bend arcs from water pipes standard length 6 m, up to the span will be 1.9 m, and the height under the ridge is 0.8 m;
3. You can connect the arcs with a ridge beam by tying it crosswise with a flexible wire or wrapping it with agroscotch.

Pos. 4 - cassette greenhouse or greenhouse-box. It is made exclusively for seedlings ground or bulk, because. completely depletes the soil in 1-3 months. Another drawback - poor use of light - can be eliminated with agrofibre coating. But in 1 sq. m cassette, you can grow seedlings for 12 even 20 acres.

Pos. 5 - greenhouse-house or butterfly. These are made either adjustable with an established turnover of the land (see above), or under intensely breathing crops: tomatoes, eggplants, vegetable (sweet) peppers, because. a film without a frame quickly deteriorates from frequent lifting and refilling.

Note: vegetable peppers from the nightshade family are not related to real peppers from the pepper family. So named because of some similarity in the shape of the fruit.

Bulk greenhouses, pos. 6 and 7 are most often built stationary on a solid frame. The coating is respectively durable, agrofibre or PC. Soil drainage is required; visible in pos. 6. In addition to the butterfly, other designs are possible, see below.

About greenhouses for cucumbers

Recently, in private farms, ordinary garden cucumbers with recumbent lashes are increasingly being replaced by greenhouse long-fruited ones: they need less land, they are high-yielding and never bitter up to the very “ass”. However, the culture of long-fruited cucumbers in open field in most of the territory of the Russian Federation it is impossible without shelter, they are thermophilic and cannot stand frost, therefore they are cultivated in greenhouses.

The greenhouse for cucumbers must, firstly, be high enough: the “long-fruited” lashes reach more than 1.5 m in height before they can be launched horizontally, see fig. Secondly, greenhouse cucumbers do not like to "steam", this makes them start powdery mildew and other cucumber ailments. Therefore, the roof of the cucumber greenhouse should be flat so that the cool nighttime steam cushion from under it is weathered through the cracks here. In addition, under flat roof fasten horizontal rods; cords hang down from them, for which the cucumbers cling with their mustaches.

As a result, a greenhouse for cucumbers turns out to be approximately the same as in fig. top right. However, less time-consuming variants of the tunnel type on lancet arcs are also possible, see below.

About the orientation of the greenhouse

Ridges of soil greenhouses lead along the north-south line. Tunnels, cassettes and butterflies are also oriented. As for the pits and single-slope structures (see below), they are oriented with a slope to the south or south-southeast, because. plants work most actively in the morning, using the nightly excess CO2.

Frames and structures

materials

Wood in a greenhouse rots quite quickly, so wood for building a greenhouse must be treated with environmentally friendly, i.e. purchased with a certificate, water-repellent compounds - water repellents. Popular for sheds, hozblok, arbors, garden benches and country furniture free mining is not good: additives introduced into engine oil should not get into food.

Note: when making a greenhouse frame from improvised materials, wooden structures must be disassembled and the parts must be impregnated separately. At the same time, you will sort it out with the replacement of unusable fasteners, so that it is stronger.

Stationary greenhouses are best done on a frame made of plastic pipes, they will ensure strength, durability and environmental friendliness. We will return to them, but for now let's see what we can do in a hurry.

Whatever

Finished, and very good, translucent coating give window frames. The greenhouse is small, so you can get by with 1-2-3 windows. However, unlike a greenhouse, it does not have high transparent walls, so it is better to make a greenhouse out of old window frames oriented to the south, to the left and in the center in fig. The second circumstance is that no matter what frames are at your disposal, the transparent roof must be made folding (lifting up), and not hinged or folding, as on the right in Fig. Through any vertical gap, all the warm air will instantly escape and the plants will be hit by cold, and the horizontal one can be adjusted with props according to the weather and local conditions.

Note: the optimal slope of the roof slope of a shed greenhouse from the vertical (90 degrees) -φ, where φ - geographical latitude places; and (90 degrees)–φ is the angular height of the Sun at noon of the spring/autumn equinox. See below for a greenhouse with a heat storage.

A successful simple greenhouse; more precisely, its frame made of industrial wood waste is shown in fig. Its highlight is visible in Fig. slope of the ridge beam to the south by about 10 degrees. This gives, firstly, best use Sveta. Secondly, the entrance must be made from the north side in the form of a vertical slot in the canopy with fasteners or Velcro. Then, by slightly opening the slot, we get effective ventilation, and there is no need to raise / lower the film on the sides. The struts are also set correctly, from the west, and the eastern slope is more gentle.

A very good greenhouse covering material is polyethylene terephthalate, PET. As you know, bottles and other containers are made from it. Relatively few bottles are required for a greenhouse, so it is better to use them as a whole, stringing them with “kebabs” on “skewers” ​​made of steel rod. How to do this (the technology is simple) is described.

As for the design, the best plastic bottle greenhouse is a clamshell, or a book greenhouse, see fig. left. Shields from PET bottles are excellent light concentrators, they reflect IR well; you need to cover the openings with a film only at night and in anticipation of frost. And during the day, the plants will be warm anyway, plus free gas exchange is provided.

For a long time on the frame

A long-term greenhouse is built, as a rule, on a frame made of plastic pipes. This frame is strong and lightweight; it is carried uncoated by 1-2 people assembled, if the greenhouse is mobile. The frame is placed on the ground, putting the ends of the pipes on pins driven into the ground; driving depth - from 40 cm. The formwork for bulk soil is attached to the pipes with clamps.

Pipes for the frame take plumbing PVC or propylene. The former are cheaper and serve in a frame for up to 10 years. However, arcs from pvc pipes you can bend only semicircular or, to increase the height by reducing the span, parabolic, pos. 1 in fig.

PVC is quite plastic and not very strong, and the roof ridge is the most loaded. If PVC pipes are connected here with a break, the fastening will not last long.

The most durable, durable, and gives more choice of options for building a frame made of polypropylene pipes. From them you can collect lancet arches, pos. 2 in fig. And their use, in turn, provides the following advantages:

• With a simple tap right angle and on self-tapping screws (pos. 1 in the figure below), arches can be made collapsible into corners and long parts that require little space for winter storage.

• From segments of 3 m each (halves of a standard 6-m pipe), an arch is obtained with a span of more than 1.7 m and a height of under 2 m, pos. 2. That is, it will be possible to enter the greenhouse, as in a greenhouse.
• The lancet arch ensures a high use of light, as a flat strip of coating on the roof, giving a large tangential (lateral) reflection, is absent. But on the slopes of the arch there is always a wide strip, which gives optimal refraction at any standing of the Sun.
• The high elasticity of PP makes lancet arches prestressed, i.e. increased strength. This makes it possible to use also prestressed PC for coating, as for greenhouses.
• A ridge beam from the same pipe is fastened from the inside with clamps, tying with wire or agroscotch, also pos. 2.
• In general, the frame comes out very durable and resistant to rain loads: there is nowhere for snow piles and storm flows to linger.
• The high height not only facilitates the care of plants, but also allows you to grow long-fruited cucumbers simply on stamens in combination with other crops, pos. 3, or low-growing valuable varieties of the same cucumbers, for example. gherkin, pos. 4.

About PC Coatings

In some regions, depending on local prices, polycarbonate for coating can be cheaper than agrofibre for a greenhouse of the same area. In such a case, in Fig. - device of a sub-fence / wall greenhouse under a PC for tomatoes:

1 solid sheet goes to the roof, no special fasteners are required. Height and width are given taking into account PC waste for processing and fastening. Where higher, tall varieties are planted, for example. pink, ordinary in the middle, and small, but very tasty (and expensive on the market) cherry tomatoes will fit below. The height and width are given approximately for the latitude of St. Petersburg, calculated for the summer. To the south, the height can be taken equal to the width, and vice versa.

However, PC is more used to cover "long-life" greenhouses on steel frame with folding doors. In this class, the usual butterflies, pos. 1 next. fig., are gradually being replaced by greenhouses-bread boxes, pos. 2. A greenhouse-bread box is better than a butterfly, not only and not so much as a great ease of care. In it, at any position of the valves under the arch, a cushion of warm greenhouse gases is retained for quite a long time, which greatly reduces the likelihood of plants catching cold during airing.

When planning the purchase or self-production of a greenhouse-bread box, you need to know about it. weak points. The first is a hinge with fixation of the wings. This is a technologically rather complex assembly that requires precise manufacturing of parts while maintaining the resistance of the entire hinge to contamination. The second is the junction of the valves. A gap of 2-3 mm is enough so that the warm pillow does not hold, so the gap in the joint should be of a minimum width and sealed.

Bread boxes, as you know, are not only with flaps. At pos. 3 shows a greenhouse-bread box in the form of a chest. He holds a pillow under the arch in the same way, but for home craftsmen, his design is preferable, because. does not require special care in manufacturing. Therefore, on the trail. rice. drawings of a simple greenhouse of a bread box-chest are given.

Breadbasket for the North

According to the scheme of another type of household breadbasket, a greenhouse with a heat accumulator can be built for a particularly harsh climate. It is suitable only for pot-container culture, but in places with soddy-podzolic or tundra-gley soils, it is not possible otherwise. In contrast to a heat-retaining greenhouse with lighting in the dark, the air circulation here is semi-closed, for which the heat accumulator itself (rubble stone, broken brick) is placed in a steel rod crate raised above the greenhouse floor, see fig. During the day, the lid is slightly opened, the flow of fresh air provides ventilation. At the same time, plants do not catch colds, because. cold air immediately mixes with the warm, heated Sun through the lid. The battery gains heat and releases it at night with the lid closed.

The slope of the lid from the vertical is equal to the angular height of the Sun at the noon of the equinox, pos. A, where φ is the geographic latitude of the place. It is not necessary to make a heat storage device from a seemingly quite suitable solid hollow red brick. As seen in pos. B, there will be no horizontal air circulation in such a storage tank, it will warm up unevenly and at night the cold part will take the heat to itself, but the plants will not get it.

The traditional design of a mini-greenhouse repeats that of a mini-greenhouse. But the modern mini-greenhouse is already different: it is either a light space frame covered with PET or EVA for flowers or a small amount seedlings, or an individual greenhouse-umbrella for elite garden specimens, see fig.

Both designs are easily reproducible at home: a three-dimensional frame can be made from metal-plastic pipe scraps fastened with agro- or ordinary adhesive tape, and an umbrella can be made from any hard rod and fiberglass ends of rods or pieces of elastic steel wire, for example. bicycle spokes. In any case, it is better to dissolve PET bottles into sheets for coating.

Each owner suburban area sooner or later, he asks himself the question of how to increase the yield of the garden and optimize financial and physical costs. As a rule, it is after this that they begin to consider affordable greenhouses with their own hands: the best projects and features of their implementation. This article will discuss successful greenhouse designs, materials for construction and coating, as well as a detailed description of the process of building a building.

Before you start building a greenhouse, you need to decide on several fundamental aspects that will determine the size, type and location of the structure. First of all, you should think about what you plan to grow in it. For example, a greenhouse for tomatoes should correspond in height to the growth of adult plants, while growing seedlings exclusively does not require big size designs.

Another important point- the material from which the construction will be carried out. The most popular option, which is used in most cases, is wood. But today, wood has given way to lighter and more affordable modern materials e.g. plastic pipes and covering material. But this does not mean that wooden frames were abandoned altogether. Wooden and metal greenhouses can still be found quite often.

In addition, give the site a neat appearance the symmetrical arrangement of all buildings, fences and paths will help. But the most important thing is that at the same time, the greenhouse should be located correctly and do not close the windows of the house, do not block the passage, etc.

DIY wooden greenhouses and greenhouses: photos, instructions and material features

Wood is one of the most affordable and popular materials that is used for various construction. Of course, one cannot deny the fact that it is wood that is more than all other materials subject to the influence of external factors, however, this does not stop many owners of summer cottages who want to build a greenhouse with their own hands.

Soft wood species are acceptable for the construction of temporary structures. In this case, pine, alder, spruce, aspen or linden are suitable. For more reliable and permanent structures, it is better to use other deciduous trees or swamp cypress, larch.

In the process of building a greenhouse, the frame of which is made of wood, it is very important to prepare a reliable foundation that will become a solid foundation for the structure.

Do-it-yourself foundation options for a greenhouse and a greenhouse for a summer residence

Depending on the design features, one or another version of the foundation can be made, which will be suitable for of this type designs:

• foundation of railway sleepers or timber. To do this, you need to prepare a trench in which the sleepers or timber are laid. All these elements are connected with metal brackets. Then, on top is installed finished frame greenhouse;

• for places where there is often windy weather, it is preferable to mount columnar foundation. Due to the presence of a concrete base, this design can withstand severe wind loads, and even hurricanes. For this purpose, pipes with a diameter of more than 20 cm are required. They are dug in to a depth of 90 to 120 cm so that they do not freeze during the cold season;
• a block foundation is another solution to the issue of installing a base for a greenhouse or greenhouse. In this case, sand and gravel are first poured into a previously prepared trench, and then concrete blocks are placed. All this is poured cement mortar and then a frame of bars is attached on top;
• strip foundation is practically not used for greenhouses, as it is designed for more serious loads. A concrete pad 30-50 cm thick is located in a not too deep trench. The main advantage of this option is an extremely long service life, which allows you to change structures by installing them on the same base.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse frame assembly

Having figured out what is the difference between a greenhouse and a greenhouse, and having established the type of foundation suitable for you, you can proceed directly to the construction of the frame itself. As mentioned earlier, there are several options that you can implement yourself, such as arched or gable construction. It all depends on your preferences, as well as the features of the area on which the installation will be carried out.

Most often in summer cottages you can find rectangular greenhouses or greenhouses with a gable roof. Making wooden greenhouses with your own hands is quite simple, and their use will be quite comfortable if you think through all the nuances.

Features of each stage of construction. How to choose and fix covering material. Advantages of PVC pipe constructions.

Installation always starts with a support bar that is attached to the foundation and is usually slightly thicker than the rest. wooden elements, which are used for the framework itself. However, all elements in without fail treated with a protective antiseptic.

All fasteners must be reliable, so reinforcement, anchor or metal bolts can be used for this purpose. Another important aspect is the integrity of the timber, which is used as a base. It must be solid, without cracks and traces of decay, since the stability of the structure depends on this.

The construction of a greenhouse made of wood with your own hands is carried out according to the drawing you have chosen. But, in general, the scheme of work looks like in the following way: it is necessary to assemble two side and two end walls, which are then fastened together with self-tapping screws, corners, metal profiles or clamps.

When the "box" is ready, you can proceed to the installation of rafters. Their number depends on your preferences, however, it should be understood that the more there are, the easier it will be to fix the covering material and the stronger the overall structure will be.

When all the rafters are fixed, you can proceed to the installation of the roof ridge, which is attached to the upper groove of the rafters. At the same stage, it is worth fixing the wind boards, for which the side grooves of the rafters are provided. You can see more details on exactly how to do this in the drawing or diagram. All these elements must be made of solid material.

The final stage of construction can be called the installation of a doorway, as well as a vent, which is provided for ventilation. After that, it remains only to cover the frame with a covering material, and you can begin operation.

Helpful advice! One of the most effective ways to protect against rodents is to lay a chain-link mesh with small cells under the greenhouse. This must be done before installing the frame.

The most comfortable do-it-yourself greenhouses. Photos of models made of polycarbonate and plastic pipes

One of the modern and inexpensive options for building a greenhouse is the use of plastic pipes. Depending on the manufacturing technology, they are divided into polypropylene, metal-plastic and PVC.

The last option is slightly cheaper than all the others. But metal-plastic, although the most expensive, are able to provide much more high level strength. Therefore, in this case, you should be guided by your preferences and financial capabilities. As an example, you can see photos of greenhouses in the country with your own hands.

The main advantages of a plastic greenhouse frame over a wooden one are ease of installation and the ability to give the structure any shape. As in the case of wood, you need to start construction with site selection and site preparation. Having decided on the purpose and size of the greenhouse, you can proceed to the drawing of the scheme and the purchase of the appropriate amount of necessary materials.

Often, plastic pipe structures are made temporary, since they can be easily dismantled and reassembled several times. The type of foundation to be laid depends on whether the greenhouse is stationary or collapsible. In the first case, it is better to use tape or columnar. For a temporary structure, you can not make a foundation at all, but simply dig in metal pins and strengthen the site with boards.

With the help of pins, the base is made as follows:

1. Strong metal pins are dug into the ground. They should protrude about 30 cm above the ground.
2. One end of the pipe is put on the pin.
3. The pipe is bent in such a way that the second edge can also be put on the pin, which is dug parallel to the first.

How to economically build a greenhouse with your own hands from plastic pipes

Everyone can make a simple greenhouse with their own hands without much financial investment and effort. To do this, you only need to purchase all the necessary materials, according to the selected drawing and follow a fairly simple algorithm:

1. After the base arcs are installed, it is necessary to fasten them together. To do this, you need to use a pipe, the length of which will correspond to the length of the entire greenhouse.
2. A long pipe (or two short ones fastened together) is located in the center of the arcs standing on the base, and is fixed as tightly as possible with clamps or ropes. On this, the assembly of the frame can be considered certified.
3. As a coating, it is best to use polycarbonate or polyethylene film. In the first case, the thickness of the polycarbonate must be at least 4 mm, and the size of the sheet can be any, since this material can be easily cut and adjusted to the size of the greenhouse. In the second case, the film is cut into strips and attached to the arcs using double-sided tape, stationery binders or special pipe mounts.
4. Fastening of polycarbonate or film must be overlapped. To connect the sheets, you can use self-tapping screws with wide caps or thermal washers. The main thing is to pay due attention to the sealing of the joints. To do this, you can use a special tape.

Small ones for greenery can be built with your own hands from improvised materials

Greenhouse made of covering material: which is better, polycarbonate or film

Technical and performance characteristics polycarbonate allowed him to take a leading position among the materials that are used to create greenhouses and hotbeds. It is quite simple to cut and fasten, and at the same time it is resistant to external factors. In addition, it has excellent light transmission, providing plants with required amount sunlight.

It should be noted that this durable and reliable material it costs much more than the usual and affordable polyethylene film, which is still widely used to cover greenhouses.

Everyone can figure out how to cover a greenhouse with a film. The main thing is to fix it on the frame as securely as possible and fix it below, sprinkling the edges with earth and laying heavy boards or bricks. When deciding which film to choose for a greenhouse, you should first of all be guided by its strength. But in any case, most likely, it will not last more than one season. The price of a film for a greenhouse is affordable, so you can replace it without much effort and investment.

As for the features of fastening polycarbonate, it is worth noting the presence of several different methods. So, in addition to conventional screws, you can use aluminum staples or special plastic earrings.

Another option involves the use of profiles for this purpose. In this case, you need to drill holes in advance that will allow you to attach the coating to the metal frame.

Helpful advice! The use of thermal washers in the process of fixing polycarbonate is a mandatory measure, since this is what allows the material to maintain integrity and prevents condensation.

Greenhouse "Do it yourself" from window frames: how to equip a place for growing seedlings

In garden plots, you can often find small greenhouses assembled from old window frames. Of course, such a design is hardly suitable for growing tall and large crops, but it is more than useful as a self-made greenhouse for seedlings.

The main advantage of this option is financial savings. All you need is old window frames. If they have glasses, then you can leave them and use them instead of the standard coating. If the frames are empty, then after installation they can be covered with plastic wrap or cut polycarbonate sheets can be inserted.

Even for such a small and light greenhouse, it is necessary to prepare the foundation in advance. For this purpose, installed wooden frame from boards or timber. Best suited for this purpose is a beam of 50x50 mm or a board with a thickness of 40 mm.

The frame will consist of racks, as well as upper and lower straps, which are made from the same boards. Racks, at the same time, must be installed at such a distance from each other that the window frame can enter between them.

For the roof, timber is best suited, as it is more durable and minimizes the risk of the greenhouse being destroyed under the weight of snow in winter. Also, gable structures are more durable, which is also worth considering.

As for attaching the frames themselves to the supports, this can be done using nails and screws. It must be fixed on all four sides, both from the outside and from the inside. All remaining gaps must be sealed with foam.

Like the walls of the greenhouse, it is best to cover the roof with polycarbonate or wrap it with a film. This will provide the plants with the maximum amount of light.

Helpful advice! It is best to start the installation of the coating from the roof, gradually moving down. Otherwise, you run the risk of damaging already covered areas by hitting them in the process.

Do-it-yourself greenhouse under a film made of galvanized steel profile

Profile is another material that has recently been actively used for the construction of greenhouses and greenhouses. The main advantage of this method is the ability to give the structure absolutely any shape and size, not limited to any standard sizes.

Helpful advice! In order to build a beautiful and reliable greenhouse with your own hands from a profile, video, calculations and step by step photo instructions offered on the Internet can serve you well. Do not neglect the advice of experts, as well as the recommendations of users who have already had to work with such buildings before.

Required to work the following tools: measuring tape, building level and plumb line, scissors designed to work with metal and a screwdriver.

Installation of the frame begins with fixing the guide profile, which is attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws. One upper beam should connect all sections to each other, which should be at such a distance that the structure is sufficiently rigid. As a rule, the step is the third and fourth part of the length of the polycarbonate sheet.

By the same principle, you can make a galvanized greenhouse under the film. You just need to think in advance how to fix the film on the greenhouse. Otherwise, the technology does not differ from that used for wooden structures and greenhouses made of plastic pipes.

Very often, a galvanized profile is used for a greenhouse for tomatoes. It is quite simple to build it with your own hands, and at the same time, the design has the proper strength. Moreover, every summer resident, interested in the question of how to grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, will definitely come across the fact that the temperature in the greenhouse for tomatoes should not fall too low. Therefore, it may be worth thinking about the heating system at the design and construction stage.

How to care for the structure and how to prepare a greenhouse for planting

Regardless of whether you prefer a greenhouse under a film or a more fundamental structure using polycarbonate, a number of procedures must be carried out before planting plants. First of all, this concerns the preparation of soil and beds in a greenhouse with your own hands. Photos and diagrams of how to properly arrange everything inside clearly demonstrate that having calculated everything in advance, you can ensure the convenience and ease of working with plants.

When wondering how to treat a greenhouse in the spring before planting, it is worthwhile to study in detail all possible methods in order to protect the plants and the building. First of all, it should be a high-quality antiseptic that will destroy all dangerous microorganisms living in the soil.

Considering the question of which is better, a greenhouse or a greenhouse, it is also worth considering that the first option is often installed on open ground, and from year to year the structure can be moved to a new location. And the greenhouse is a stationary structure, and it will not be possible to move it without effort.

Another important point is how to make beds in a greenhouse. Here you need to build on what kind of crop you plan to grow. For example, if you start building a greenhouse for peppers with your own hands, then the width of the beds should be at least 80 cm. At the same time, the paths should be thought out in such a way as to provide free access to each plant.

The most convenient do-it-yourself greenhouse: video instructions for making

After reviewing the video, a do-it-yourself greenhouse will no longer seem like an impossible task to you. Following simple recommendations, you can easily make a greenhouse from covering material with your own hands, which will meet all your needs, and is perfect for effective cultivation vegetable crops.

Can be assembled with minimal effort. Therefore, today we will discuss the best ideas on how to make greenhouses with your own hands. We will show the best projects in photosets and master classes.

The first and most important thing, how a greenhouse differs from a greenhouse, is the lack of heating in the winter. The greenhouse structure is purely seasonal. However, in the southern regions, where the temperature is above zero all year round, greenhouses are constantly used.

There are several varieties of them. The most popular and easy-to-make greenhouses of the "Agronomist" type. Although such structures have different names, the design variation does not change - a simple low frame made of plastic pipes or wood, dug into the ground. On top of this design is covered with a film. Frames are made for reinforcement.

More "serious" designs are greenhouses with a sash opening mechanism. There are several varieties -, "Chest". All of them are shown in the photo below.

Also popular among gardeners are full-sized greenhouses for seasonal cultivation. tall plants. Outwardly, they resemble greenhouses, but the main “ingredient” is missing - the heating system.

Related article:

Standard dimensions, what is the design, its advantages and disadvantages, materials used in the manufacture, features self-development drawing and assembling a polycarbonate greenhouse - read our publication.

Overview of winter greenhouse projects for do-it-yourself construction

In fact, you can make heated greenhouses and for giving your own hands, you can absolutely any configuration. The main thing is that there should be a complete tightness of the structure and be present. Also, another condition is the arrangement. It is desirable that it be monolithic and raised above the ground by at least 15 cm.

The best cladding material for such greenhouse structures is glass or polycarbonate, which is more affordable and easy to process. At the same time, it keeps heat indoors more efficiently, which can also lead to stale air. Therefore, even at the design stage, it is necessary to think over not only the heating system, but also for the winter period.

Overview of the best projects for a do-it-yourself greenhouse heating device

The first thing you should know about heating a greenhouse with your own hands is that not only warm air important for plant growth. Therefore, the best projects involve ground heating, which will also provide more comfortable conditions. Consider what are the options for heating greenhouses:

1. - the simplest and most economical heating system in the device. Great for ground heating. But his device is more suitable for buildings located near the main house.
2. Electricity- a very expensive way of heating, if we consider it in a variation of the heat supply from. Another thing is if a pump organizes a heating system that works with water, soil or air. If there is a body of water nearby, then it is best to use the “water-water” scheme. "Soil-water" is the most expensive option, but also effective. “Air-water” is cheaper, but it is tied to climatic conditions. In frosts from -25 ° C, the system fails.
3. Gas- Another common method of heating greenhouses. And the cheapest, which may not seem at first glance. But there is one caveat, when heated by gas, it is thrown out a large number of carbon dioxide, so there is a risk of burning the air. Therefore, the system is always arranged for .
4. biofuel- the most economical and easiest way to do-it-yourself heating. In the process of decay, heat is released, which is necessary for the growth of plants. Humus is simply laid under the ground, and after a few months it is updated. True, in the northern regions of the country this method is not enough. You can use it for small areas of greenhouses.

The video below will tell you how to choose the best way to heat a do-it-yourself greenhouse.

What is the "skeleton" of greenhouses and greenhouses made of?

Frames for both greenhouses and hotbeds are made of the same materials:

1. Wood- not the cheapest option, but reliable with proper design and processing. So that the frame does not rot, it is necessary that the tree does not come into contact with the ground, it is about 30 cm higher above it. Painting and varnishing is also required. But remember that wood is still an organic material, which in a couple of years will shrink, dry out, and you will have to produce repair work. Slowly moving away from the role of the main frame material for greenhouses and hotbeds.
2. Metal- a more reliable option for the frame. Apply both strips and profiles, painted or galvanized. Minus - the severity of the frame and the obligatory device of a good one. Perhaps the most expensive material for the frame of the greenhouse system.
3. plastic pipes- relatively recently they began to make various objects and spatial figures. As the main frame material for greenhouses and hotbeds, such pipes have shown themselves well - they are easy to process, light weight, flexible, the ability to manufacture even complex structures. They also need a foundation additional gain designs. Of the minuses, it can be noted that only films and a maximum of polycarbonate can be used as a covering material. Glazing such a frame simply will not withstand.

You can buy a polycarbonate greenhouse only with a metal frame. From pipes manufacturing enterprises such structures do not. This is the fate of perhaps "handy gardeners."

Polycarbonate is an ideal material for making simple greenhouses and winter greenhouses with your own hands.

A polycarbonate greenhouse today is incredibly popular. How did such material deserve people's love? There are several reasons why you should choose, which the video after the description will also tell about:

• a honeycomb structure filled with air makes polycarbonate a heat-retaining covering material;
• light transmittance;
• flexibility - you can sheathe a frame of any shape;
• accessibility of installation - easy to self-processing and installation on simple fasteners - self-tapping screws, bolts;
• durability - the service life can be up to 20 years;
• not exposed to atmospheric influences;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• relatively inexpensive material.

Is polycarbonate the ideal building material? No, as we know, everything in this world is imperfect. One of the main disadvantages is flammability, under the influence of fire, and simply high temperature it starts to melt.

Also, professionals in crop production, despite all the seductive advantages of polycarbonate, try to bypass it due to its high reflectivity. If there is one, then less light will pass inside. If this is not critical for greenhouses, then for professional greenhouses it is a real disaster.

Also, polycarbonate does not "breathe" at all. This, of course, is a definite plus - a stable warm and humid microclimate develops inside the greenhouse, as plants love. But, on the other hand, they also vitally need Fresh air In any weather. This problem is solved by installing vents and others, walls and doors. However, if such a greenhouse is not opened for a long time, then the plants there can simply die from stuffiness.

Polycarbonate is a popular type of building material with a wide range of species diversity. And not every type is suitable for sheathing a finished structure. What you need to pay attention to:

1. Only honeycomb sheets are suitable, since they retain heat better due to the additional air gap, which is not present in a monolithic material.
2. Also pay attention to cells. Usually they are square in shape, but it is better if each of them also has a diagonal partition, which provides additional rigidity to the sheet.
3. It is also better to give preference to the usual transparent material, since it has the largest percentage of light transmission. Colored sheets can absorb it by 60%, which will only destroy the plants in the greenhouse.
4. Be sure to pay attention to UV protection, as prolonged exposure to the sun can warp polycarbonate. If the manufacturer claims that it is, but only inside, this means that its level is minimal. Sheets on which there is a protective film, with the recommendation of the manufacturer of mounting the sheet with a certain side outward, are the guarantor of the protective layer.
5. The optimal thickness for the device, both greenhouses and greenhouses of various modifications, is from 4 to 10 mm with a crate step of 700-1050 mm. This is optimal performance, which allow the construction of reliable structures.
6. Also great importance when choosing such a material, its specific gravity plays a role. The greater the weight of the sheet, the higher its density, which means that the strength will be greater. The optimal density is from 0.7 kg / m 2.
7. quality material does not allow any, even the smallest defects on the surface. Also, the stiffeners should go strictly in straight lines, no waves or zigzags.
8. If the sheets were stored correctly, it means that their quality percentage did not fall. Proper storage- the location of even sheets in a horizontal position. If the polycarbonate was on edge or wrapped in rolls, it is better not to take such material.

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. Dimensions, prices of products from leading manufacturers, characteristics, varieties, pros and cons of different designs, features of assembly and use, user reviews - read our publication.

The foundation is the head of everything, or when you need a foundation for greenhouses and greenhouses

The foundation sounds proud and solid. But is it needed when arranging greenhouses and hotbeds? It depends directly on the type and size of the structure. When building a mini-greenhouse, for example, "Khlebnitsy", laying the foundation is not required. Someone just puts such a structure on the ground. But this is not always advisable, since such polycarbonate structures are relatively light in weight. Therefore, it is recommended to mount it on, which, if necessary, are dug into the ground. Small ones are improvised, and are completely mounted without a foundation. For structural rigidity, it is preferable to “mount” the arches on pre-dug ones.

Today at the peak of popularity are growth arched greenhouses made of polycarbonate. In fact, the weight of such a structure measuring 3 × 6 meters is 100 kg. This means that approximately every square meter structure is subjected to a load of 10 kg. By construction standards, this is just a “ridiculous” load, which is not even taken into account in the calculations. But guided by the unpredictable climate of our country and the experience of summer residents, such greenhouses are blown away by a good gust of wind. No, not to the Emerald City, of course, the maximum to the neighboring site. But such an unplanned flight can cause a lot of damage. Therefore, when constructing large greenhouses, it is best to make full-fledged foundations on or sand blocks.

And, of course, a solid foundation is simply necessary for stationary greenhouses. Firstly, it will remove the load and distribute it evenly throughout the structure, which guarantees a longer service life. Secondly, even during a hurricane, the building will remain in place. And, thirdly, the foundations prevent the freezing of the soil, additionally the soil. Bases are made from those materials that are convenient to work with, and even more economical in a particular case, bricks, blocks, concrete monolith or tape, and even screw piles.

Attention! The type of foundation for greenhouses is chosen in the same way as for the main buildings - primarily by the type of soil.

Article

Everyone loves useful and delicious vegetables grown on their own land or in the country. Not all plants can survive the summer outdoors. To preserve the crop, many summer residents use special designs called greenhouses or greenhouses.

The option of building such a structure depends on the needs, financial capabilities and size of the site. Functionality and design features greenhouses and greenhouses practically do not differ, because they are intended for growing vegetables and seedlings. The only difference between these buildings is the size.

Greenhouses are rather large buildings that are installed permanently on the foundation. In you can grow year-round, if you spend there special system heating.

Greenhouse- a reduced copy of the greenhouse. This design is usually used for early planting seedlings and growing vegetables in the summer in the cold regions of the country.

The structural features of the construction of a greenhouse in the country with their own hands are simple and easy to install. Their varieties are usually determined by the type of material used and the ability to move.

There are greenhouses stationary and portable type.

• Stationary ones are usually made in the shape of a butterfly with doors opening on both sides.
• Portable greenhouses are usually made in the form of a tunnel or arch. The material for such greenhouses is a standard polymer film.

In its turn, greenhouse options can be very different:

• Greenhouse "Dutch" has in common with separately standing structure, but its walls thicken closer to the ground to concentrate heat.
• A detached structure with a gable roof, where glass frames are used as the roofing material.
• The easiest and most budget option is to make a greenhouse in the form of a tunnel. The material for it is a film, most often used in the country.
• Wall construction, which, to save heat, is closely adjacent to the house with one wall. The disadvantage of this design is the lack of natural light.
• Do-it-yourself arched greenhouse is a construction that is difficult to build. It assumes a single system of roofing and walls in an arched form. Experts note that when choosing an arched greenhouse, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material of the frame and coating before buying or independent construction structures.
• A small greenhouse, built with your own hands, is ideal for a small cottage. This design is made a continuation of the main building and equipped with a shed roof.
• The do-it-yourself polygonal design of a metal greenhouse has a rather aesthetic appearance, but it is not economical to operate.
• A dome-shaped greenhouse is an ideal structure for sunlight to enter.

How to build a do-it-yourself greenhouse from improvised materials

DIY construction

When choosing a place for a greenhouse, it is more correct to take into account factors that can affect the quality and quantity harvested crop. It is better to place the greenhouse in an open space away from other buildings on the site and large trees.

If the land area is small, then you can build a greenhouse with one side adjacent to the wall of an existing building, for example, a house or a barn. In this case, a particularly important condition will be the need to build the remaining sides of the greenhouse on the south side of the site to receive the maximum amount of sunlight.

Material selection

The material for a simple greenhouse with your own hands must meet the following requirements:

• Ease of installation.
• Good sunlight transmission.
• The cost of the material and its installation.
• The magnitude of the load of the structure on the soil.
• Resistance to soil movements, temperature changes and various deformations.
• Duration of operation.

Glass is rightfully considered the most durable material, but its installation involves a fairly strong foundation and an expensive frame. And the most budget option there will be a polymer film, which can be selected according to quality and characteristics.

Greenhouse construction

Foundation laying required only for a stationary greenhouse structure for products made of polycarbonate or glass.

To do this, before starting work, the fertile layer of soil is removed, the rest is well compacted.

The ideal option for the greenhouse foundation is the so-called tape-reinforced type, the depth of which is 25 centimeters or more.

After 4-5 days after pouring the foundation, you can start installing the frame. It is an integral part of every greenhouse, for this reason its integrity and quality must be given maximum attention. Usually the frame is made of wood, plastic or metal profile.

We build a greenhouse-bread box with our own hands

How to make a greenhouse

The wooden frame is environmentally friendly and easy to install. But the tree does not cope well with temperature changes and changes in climatic conditions.

In order for such a frame to last longer, it must be processed once a year. protective equipment for wood.

The metal framework has the increased wear resistance and maintains big loading. The main thing is to protect such a frame from the effects of corrosion. This is a more time-consuming process for making a greenhouse, which will require a special welding machine and Bulgarian.

To build a light mobile greenhouse with your own hands, plastic pipes are suitable, which are lightweight, flexible and affordable. For connection, fittings and a special soldering iron are required.

Structure coating

After making a solid frame for a greenhouse or greenhouse, you can proceed with the installation of walls and roofs using the selected material.

The film is the easiest to install and affordable option to cover the greenhouse with your own hands. When choosing such a coating, you need to follow simple rules:

• Do not cut the film ahead of time. It is necessary to cover the entire structure with it, leaving small gaps, and only then cut it off.
• Avoid mechanical damage to the material by using a special stapler or wooden planks for fastening.
• Carry out work in calm weather and average temperature.
• For greenhouse glazing, the material from which the frame is made is important.

If the frame is made of wood, then the glazing of the roof is carried out along the bars with special grooves for collecting and draining condensate. Better to make fixing material from dry wooden blocks and pre-primed them with drying oil.

When laying glass on metal carcass only one difference is in the fastening material - metal bars. Otherwise, the installation is no different, the glass is laid on the putty and attached with brackets.

How to make a greenhouse from arcs with covering material

Polycarbonate to cover the frame is used by the side where the pattern is located. Sections of sheets of material are sealed with a special tape for sealing on the top and perforated on the bottom. This material is attached to the frame using a specialized profile and rubber gaskets in order from the roof to the sides.

The construction of the floor in the greenhouse is done for greater convenience and aesthetic appearance. High-quality floor retains heat in the building for a long time. The best way arranging the floor in the greenhouse is sand or gravel.

Most an expensive option will install underfloor heating in the greenhouse. This requires additional preparation and supply of electricity to the greenhouse, but this also solves the problem of heating it in winter.

Ventilation system in the greenhouse and greenhouse

The process of ventilating a standard greenhouse usually provides for its very design - doors that open in warm weather.

Greenhouses, in turn, can be equipped with both natural ventilation and automatic hoods. Natural ventilation systems include vents and doors. Automatic systems are designed for regular ventilation, excluding the penetration of cold air into the greenhouse.

Unusual buildings

• A mini-greenhouse is a cap made of a plastic bottle without a bottom, it is easy to make and it is great for growing seedlings of plants that are painful to transplant. Immediately after planting the seeds, the cap must be closed with a lid, and when the temperature during the day is above 20 degrees, it can be removed.
• Neat houses made from old window frames help provide plants with comfortable growth and serve as a stunning decoration for a summer cottage.
• The dome is a large polygonal building with a wooden frame covered with ordinary oilcloth. Despite the complexity of construction, such a domed structure is attractive, stable and has excellent light penetration.
• The box, consisting of four boards and a window frame, is a small original greenhouse for flowers and undersized plants.
• Practical folding greenhouse modern pipes PVC of small diameter and ordinary polyethylene film.
• Greenhouse umbrella - a small original design made of wooden barrel and an old oilcloth umbrella covered with plastic wrap.
• A greenhouse-tent is a compact mobile structure made of a children's tent with walls equipped with oilcloth inserts.
• Plastic house - a greenhouse made of plastic bottles, which can be in the open or closed version. The creation of such a greenhouse does not require high costs and special skills.
• A flowerbed is a greenhouse small size, made from wooden frame of the required size, two thin plastic pipes and a piece of oilcloth. The convenience of this design is that if the air temperature rises to the required norm, the oilcloth can be easily removed, and you get a neat flower bed.
• Mini-house - a cute greenhouse made of plastic boxes, which is suitable for indoor plants and will decorate any standard balcony.
• It is enough just to build a small greenhouse from old pallets covered with plastic wrap. This design is perfect for growing flowers and seedlings.
• From standard plastic container you can build an excellent greenhouse for growing seedlings on the balcony.
How to choose a quality shading net for plants in a greenhouse

Do not exclude the possibility of buying a ready-made greenhouse or greenhouse from trusted companies. Then you can get an advantage in the form of a mandatory guarantee that this product is of high quality for long-term use. Besides, inIf you receive a defective product, you can exchange the greenhouse during the entire warranty period.Large suppliers offer greenhouses for affordable prices and provide all the information about the materials used for their manufacture.